From the Sector

• Commitment for a sustainable fashion industry

RadiciGroup participated in the third edition of PHYGITAL SUSTAINABILITY EXPO, which took place on 11 and 12 July in Rome. The event was focused on the ecological transition of fashion and design brands through technological innovation.

During the “narrated fashion show”, at the archaeological site of the Museo Dei Fori Imperiali, two sustainable garments by RadiciGroup were shown: the first completely recyclable ski suit made with recycled nylon and the Yamamay swimsuit made with polyester yarn obtained from recycling of plastic bottles.

Yamamay chose the sustainable polyester yarn Repetable® by RadiciGroup, for its new green beachwear proposal, with the aim of combining beauty and sustainability. Repetable is an innovative polyester yarn obtained through a process of recycling plastic bottles. Compared to virgin polyester, Repetable allows lower CO₂ emissions (-45%), lower water consumption (-90%) and lower energy consumption (-60%), while guaranteeing high performance. The new line “Edit” by Yamamay, which includes the swimsuit made with Repetable, has already been on the market since the end of last May.

The participation of RadiciGroup in the PHYGITAL SUSTAINABILITY EXPO represents further confirmation of the Group commitment to creating a fashion industry that is increasingly respectful of the environment, thanks to the involvement of all the players in the supply chain, which are most sensitive to sustainability.

Die Verleihung der Förderpreise 2022 der Walter Reiners-Stiftung des VDMA, Fachverband Textilmaschinen an Studierende und Nachwuchsingenieur:innen deutscher Universitäten für Spitzenleistungen im Studium fand am 22. Juni 2022 im Rahmen der Techtextil 2022 in Frankfurt/Main statt. Die bundesweit ausgeschriebenen Förderpreise wurden durch Peter D. Dornier, Vorstandsvorsitzender der Walter Reiners-Stiftung, auf dem VDMA-Messestand verliehen. Zum ersten Mal stand bei der Auswahl der eingereichten Arbeiten der Fokus auf Nachhaltigkeit.
 
Frau M. Sc. Marina Andrea Michel wurde mit dem mit 3.500 EUR dotierten Nachhaltigkeitspreis für die „Beste Masterarbeit des Deutschen Textilmaschinenbaues 2022“ geehrt. Ihre am Institut für Textilmaschinen und Textile Hochleistungswerkstofftechnik der TU Dresden Abschlussarbeit beschäftigt sich mit der „Funktionalisierung von Garnen mittels Cyclodextrinen zur Filtration von Mikro- und Nanoplastik, Übertragung auf Gewebe“.
 
Im Fokus stand ein Verfahren zur textilchemischen Ausrüstung von Garn- und Gewebematerialien aus nachwachsenden Rohstoffen mit Cyclodextrinen, die Mikro- und Nanoplastik (MNP) anbinden. Die grundlegenden Erkenntnisse zeigen dabei das Potenzial daraus hergestellter faserbasierter Filter zur deutlichen und nachhaltigen Minimierung der MNP-Belastung, sowohl von lokalen Trinkwasserquellen bis hin zu globalen Wasserkreisläufen, auf. Die Masterarbeit beinhaltet erstmals die innovative Anwendung von Cyclodextrinmolekülen zur Anbindung kleinster Plastikpartikel unterschiedlicher Form und molekularer Zusammensetzung.
 
Simon Hoebel erhielt den mit 3.000 EUR dotierten Nachhaltigkeitspreis „Beste Forschungsarbeit des Deutschen Textilmaschinenbaues 2022“ über die „Weiterentwicklung des Versuchstandes zur Herstellung von flexiblen hochdrapierbaren Thermoplastfaserbandstrukturen aus recycelten Carbonfasern und Thermoplastfasern für hochbelastbare thermoplastische Verbundbauteile“.
 
Das Ziel der prämierten Forschungsarbeit bestand in der Weiterentwicklung eines Versuchstandes sowie eines anwendungsbezogenen technologischen Knowhows zur Entwicklung und Fertigung von unidirektionalen hochdrapierbaren Thermoplastfaserbandstrukturen aus recycelten Carbonfasern (rCF) und Thermoplastfasern (TFS) für hochbelastbare thermoplastische CFK-Bauteile. Im Rahmen der Forschungsarbeit untersuchte Hoebel den gesamten Prozess zur Herstellung von hochdrapierbaren Thermoplastfaserbandstrukturen von der Kardierung, Verstreckung, Banddoublierung und Konsolidierung. Aus den entwickelten rCF-TFS wurden thermoplastische UD-Verbunde gefertigt und ihre mechanischen Eigenschaften charakterisiert. Die Ergebnisse der Studienarbeit zeigen das Potenzial dieser neuartigen Prozesskette und der darauf basierenden leistungsfähigen und nachhaltigen Thermoplastfaserbandstrukturen auf Basis von rCF.

This year, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles again joins forces with NellyRodi™, the renowned French agency for international forecasting, to present the design theme for 2023 – ‘ALIVE’ – together with three trends: HUMAN CAPITAL, ROUSING COMMITMENT and UNREAL REALITIES.

Nature is a keyword in HUMAN CAPITAL
This direction reflects how people want to reconnect with the environment by choosing a local approach, short supply chains, raw and natural materials, and traditional techniques. For instance, 100% plant-based materials, as well as metalised fringed jacquards and gold yarns are used to illustrate this concept.

Inspired by everyday basics and daily essentials, the trend uses a soft, luminous white palette mingled with muted and amber shades of vegetal dyes. Designs also incorporate figurative hand-drawings, archaic bestiary, stylised wildflowers and geometric patterns.

ROUSING COMMITMENT celebrates creative self-expression
The trend combines a lively play of mix-matching patterns and colours. This embraces the integration of neutral shades through touches of metallic silver and fluorescent colours to represent the urban life.

Foamback and other fabrics influenced by sports materials, as well as extravagant jacquards, silicon embossing and bouclé fabrics draw out feel-good factor of the theme. Prints using modern twists on traditional patterns, lettering plays, exuberant florals and bold geometrics, also deliver the desire to live freely by sharing joy and happiness with others.

The fantasy of UNREAL REALITIES
In order to push the limits of imagination, science and technology, consumers tap into digital realms to connect with other realities, augmented worlds and futurist utopias that draw out the potential of today’s technology. Metalised rainbow colours highlight the magic and wonder under this virtual reality theme, while surrealistic photoprint shapes, misty landscapes, blurry effects and fantastical nature adds a futuristic touch.

The theme adopts iridescent gleam of semi-transparent voiles, muslins, recycled synthetics and added pearly or glazed aspects. Soft, light meshes, honeycombed or blistered surfaces and cloudy seersuckers elevate the textures in the fabrics.

The trends are decided by a committee led by the NellyRodi™ Agency (France) and formed by top forecasters including Mr Vincent Grégoire (France), the agency’s Consumer Trends and Insights Director; Mr Shen Lei (China), Founder and Chief of Interior Architects Design; and Ms Tracy Jen (Taiwan, China), the Host of ‘Eremito’; as well as Ms Sakina M’sa, the beloved French fashion designer and entrepreneur.

In order to integrate exhibitor and industry resources more effectively, the organisers of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles have announced that the Spring and Autumn editions will be merged this year. The two fairs will now be held concurrently from 15 – 17 August 2022 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center.

The ITMC 2022 conference, which will take place at the BAnQ from September 19 to 21, 2022, is aimed at attendees from various sectors of the textile industry. Its interdisciplinary approach is the key to maximizing the potential and development of textile materials and tools for various applications. The objective of the conference is to explore new ideas, effective solutions and collaborative partnerships for business growth by creating synergy between designers, manufacturers, suppliers, students and end users from all sectors and fully exploiting this potential.

The main topics are: Composites and textile reinforcement - Sustainable Production & Ecotextiles - Smart and functional textiles - Nanotechnology & Advanced Technical Textiles - Comfort & Protective Textiles - Medical Textiles - Digital Tools & Mass Customization

Keynote speakers :

• Omar Cherkaoui, ESITH : how ESITH was able to support the operators of the Moroccan textile sector during the covid-19 crisis
• Tracy Toulouse, TT : the impact and legacy of our clothing is to identify us as a nation
• Prof. Raul Fangueiro, University of Minho: fiber-based materials: from nano to macro scale
• Pierre-Alexandre Fournier, Exoskin: the role of smart textiles in the future of health
• KyoungOk Kim, Shinshu University: Patternmaking for attractive clothing for mass customization
• Marie O’Mahony, Consultant, Royal College of Art (RCA): smart materials & systems: has embracing uncertainty become vital to commercialization?
• Xianyi Zeng, Ensait: intelligent garments for online monitoring of human health and well-being
• Corinne Farace, Techtera: The collaborative approach: a major stake in meeting the challenges of tomorrow

International textile producers meet again in Istanbul, Turkey, from June 14 – 18, 2022 on the occasion of the ITM + Hightex Exhibition. In Hall 9 (Hightex) the exhibitors will present the complete industry value chain from nonwovens raw materials, production machines and accessories to the endproduct. The related industries covered include hygiene, filtration, fabrics and apparel, medical, automotive, wipes, home furnishings and upholstery. DiloGroup offers tailor-made production systems from one supplier and will inform about its portfolio and the latest equipment developments from fibre opening to the finished felt.

DiloGroup will inform about complete lines as well as high speed needlelooms for spunbonds. A new, simplified elliptical needle beam drive makes Hyperpunch technology also attractive for standard application. Hyperpunch HαV allows a more uniform stitch distribution in the preneedling process especially in combination with the new needle pattern 6000X. In a complete needling line this felt homogenization process can be improved further. The new needle pattern 8000X is a milestone in the needle pattern development process and results in endproduct surfaces with low markings over a wide range of advances/stroke.

Another strong pillar of the sales program over decades has been fibre preparation and high speed webforming equipment for other nonwoven technologies. The further development of the high-speed layering principle “Hyperlayer” made progress for better CD strength through a combination of inline cards and crossline card with crosslapper. Particularly, carding machines in a working width above 3.5 m up to 5.1 m have been supplied by DiloSpinnbau as complete high speed carding systems, comprising two or even three cards in a line to directly feed the hydroentangling units of various suppliers. Together with DiloTemafa not only have high throughput rates been achieved in the fibre preparation section of the line but also dedusting filtering and air-conditioning systems have been successfully engineered and integrated.

Together with Sicam, Dilo has combined know-how for hydroentangling technology and therefore can provide complete lines as general contractor including equipment for cutting, winding and packaging.

Another interesting machine is the 3D-Lofter, first presented during ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, which offers a wider range of nonwovens applications by exploring the third dimension. A series of single web forming units which work according to the aerodynamic web forming principle deliver defined fibre masses in varied patterns on a base needlefelt. A stress oriented production of technical formed parts resulting in fibre savings or patterned DI-LOUR or DI-LOOP felts with or without repeat are two examples for this technology which explores new application areas for needlefelts.
The 3D-Lofter technology may also be used “inverted” as “IsoFeed” for filling up bad spots in web mats and thus achieves a better homogeneity of spunlace or airlay products.

The DiloLine 4.0 concept offer I4.0 modules which not only support the user but also facilitate quality control and maintenance by a maximum data transparency in production and control of operation. The Dilo solutions “Smart Start” for a fully automatic start of the production line or “DI-LOWATT” for energy savings are accompanied by Siemens solutions which can be selected via App or Data Cloud “MindSphere”.

• Turkish circular knitting market offers prospects in turbulent times

After a four-year, Covid-related break the German circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. is exhibiting with its Turkish representative Mayer Mümessillik (MMÜ) once more at the important International Textile Machinery Exhibition (ITM) in Istanbul. At Booth 713 in Hall 8, Mayer & Cie. will present three machines: the D4-2.2 X interlock machine, the OV 3.2 QCe for double jersey structures and the MV 4 3.2 II for single jersey fabrics. For the Mayer & Cie. and MMÜ team the focus will be on in-person contacts with customers, suppliers and partners. Despite the tense international situation both the manufacturer and its representative are positive about the medium-term outlook for the Turkish market.

Turkey is a market with prospects
“The challenges that the global economy faces are at present enormously wide-ranging, of course,” says Mayer & Cie.’s Turkey specialist Stefan Bühler. “The Russian invasion of the Ukraine, supply chain outages, shortages of raw materials and skyrocketing energy prices all create uncertainty.” And then there is galloping inflation in Turkey and elections in 2023. Yet despite, and in part because of, this state of affairs Bühler and Kahraman Güveri, CEO of Mayer & Cie.’s Turkish representative MMÜ, hold a positive view of the market outlook for the years ahead. Large orders, especially for standard products, are on the increase, Kahraman Güveri explains. That leads to new investments, new companies and a growing demand for refurbished machines that then need to be replaced by new machines elsewhere. And former commission merchants are now enterprises in their own right.

“Apart from that, Turkey benefits from its proximity to Europe, transport routes are manageable,” says Stefan Bühler. “This location advantage attracts brand manufacturers who together with their orders bring new approaches, new designs and new technologies into the country.” And Turkey’s already very highly developed textiles sector benefits too. That, says Kahraman Güveri, is why one can be confident for the next few years, “at least for as long as nothing unforeseen happens”.

Established machines with that something special: OV 3.2 QCe for double jersey structures
The portfolio of machines that Mayer & Cie. is exhibiting at the ITM is tried, trusted and popular. The OV 3.2 QCe is a specialist for interlock fabrics and double jersey structures that it knits in both filament and synthetic fibre yarns. With a conversion kit the OV 3.2 QCe also qualifies as a producer of 8-lock structures, spacer fabrics and fine gauges. The machine is available in a choice of three frames: from open-width and industrial to giant frame. Stefan Bühler, regional sales manager for Turkey, has this to say: “Not for nothing has the OV 3. 2 QCe been one of our most popular machines for years. It is mainly used for sportswear and for leisure- and outerwear.” In Istanbul the OV 3.2 QCe on show will be a 30-inch, E40-gauge model.

D4-2.2 X for fine rib and interlock fabrics
The double-jersey D4-2.2 X is an obvious choice for knitting fine rib fabrics of up to E28 gauge. Spacer and interlock fabrics are also part of the machine’s established repertoire. And it can produce elastomeric plating in both cylinder and dial cam. No matter which of these tasks is assigned to the D4-2.2 X, it performs it with impressive productivity.

MV 4 3.2 II for flexibility in the single jersey sector
In the single jersey sector, the long-established German firm delivers a literally fine solution. The MV 4 3.2 II on show at the ITM knits to an E38 gauge. The machine can also be supplied for gauges from E14 to E60. It is, in addition, highly flexible, with a repertoire that ranges from piqué and double piqué to one-thread fleece and smooth single jersey.

This collaborative and educational project showcases the use of waste as a resource and prolonging the life of the garment through color. It came to life thanks to key brands who donated items that were then transformed by Officina39’s Recycrom™ applications into a renewed head-to-toe look that was then displayed as an art installation.

What’s the Recipe for change? For Officina39 and Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab, this question gives shape to the collaborative and educational project Circular Explorations, specially presented at Amsterdam Denim Days Festival on April 22-23.

Sharing ground values and a common view on the fashion of tomorrow, Officina39, Italian based Chemistry plus Creativity company for the textile sector, joined hands with Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab and influential brands to celebrate the importance of an ongoing commitment towards circularity.

Several donated items – overstock, second-grade production or damaged, unsold pieces – were updated with newly developed applications made with Officina39’s Recycrom™, the one-of-a-kind, patented dyestuffs range made from textile waste. This Circular Explorations capsule is displayed at Denim Days Festival as an art installation, not only to dress people but also to get them acquainted with circularity because they are an important player in closing the loop.

The Recipe for change that emerges from this color research is based on important values and keywords:

• Consciousness – awareness of oneself and one's surroundings
• Courage – the mental or moral strength to venture, persevere, and withstand danger, fear, or difficulty.
• Creativity – the power to imagine and produce new possibilities.
• Connection – a relationship in which a person or thing is linked or associated with something else, the act or state of connecting.
• Collaboration – the act of working together for a common goal.

Combined together, they produce CHANGE, which is a driving force for a better tomorrow.

This collaborative and innovative project that addresses circularity is also in direct support of United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, in particular number 12-Responsible Consumption and Production, number 9-Industry innovation & Infrastructure and number 17-Partnership for the Goals.

Monforts and its Turkish representative Neotek are looking forward to the forthcoming ITM 22 international textile machinery show taking place from June 14-18 at the Tüyap Fair and Congress Centre in Istanbul, after a three-year break.

With the TwinAir heating chamber system within a Montex stenter, top and bottom airflows can be regulated completely independently of each other, ensuring heat is only applied when and where it is required. The Optiscan balancing system ensures continuous automatic evaluation of the distance between the nozzles and the fabric for highly economical and contact-free drying. The resulting constant evaporation rate within the stenter ensures optimum energy utilisation and also avoids markings on the fabric.

With the latest Montex stenters, overall energy savings of up to 40% can now be achieved compared to a conventional stenter with no heat recovery or energy optimisation measures like high-quality chamber insulation.

The Montex stenter also benefits from full digital control, with the Qualitex 800 PLC control system providing ease of operation and rapid access to line and management data, including full operating cost overviews, as well as maintenance monitoring.

Advances in digital technology mean that there are also now significant gains to be made in the retrofitting of existing Monforts machines with the latest automatic drives and control systems, going far beyond the basic replacement of spare parts.

“We will be emphasising the robustness and versatility of the Montex stenter for essential processes such as drying, stretching, heatsetting and coating at the Istanbul show,” said Monforts Area Sales Manager Thomas Päffgen.

“With energy prices rising steeply everywhere, features such as the MonforClean system, or the EcoBooster, in which waste heat from the drying process is used to pre-heat the drying air, are proving more invaluable than ever,” added Ahmet Kilic of Neotek. “Monforts can provide a range of further resource-saving and energy recovery options tailored to each individual line installation.”

ITM 2022, which will be held at Istanbul Tüyap Fair and Congress Center on 14-18 June 2022, will be the first and largest international textile machinery exhibition to be held after a 3-year break. The leading brands of world textile technologies will launch their latest machines at ITM 2022.
The latest ITM Exhibition hosted the world textile industry with 1200 exhibitors from 64 countries and 60,000 visitors from 94 countries. ITM 2022 Exhibition in cooperation with TEMSAD and in partnership with Tüyap Tüm Fuarcılık Inc. and Teknik Exhibitions Inc. plans to set new records as one of the most important global organizations to be organized after the pandemic outbreak period.

The textile industry, which is among the leading sectors in Turkey's exports, demonstrated its power to the whole world, especially during the pandemic outbreak period. Achieving an increase of up to 40 percent in exports of textiles and raw materials, Turkey also broke records after records in medical textile, technical textile, and indoor textile exports.

Ranking in the top three in the most important market for the European textile machinery manufacturers, Turkey also attracted attention with its production performance during the troublesome pandemic outbreak. Many European machinery manufacturers, who spoke highly of Turkey's performance, announced that their machinery sales to Turkey increased in 2020 and 2021. Turkish textile companies, which increase their production capacity because they were unable to keep up with the demands, continue their new investments and modernizations.

Leading brands of textile technologies such as Picanol, Itema, Toyota, Saurer, Rieter and Trützschler are among the companies that will exhibit their latest innovations at the ITM 2022.

Dilo, a leading equipment supplier of complete lines for staple fibre nonwoven fabric production, will exhibit at IDEA 2022 in Miami, end of March.
 
The most recent machine concepts from DiloGroup companies DiloTemafa, DiloSpinnbau and DiloMachines will be promoted with the emphasis on new equipment components which improve product quality, increase line capacity and also enable new opportunities in nonwoven production.
 
DiloTemafa will promote the improved bale opener series “Baltromix Pro” with design features for the operating assistance with the I4.0 components “Bale Timer”, cleaning control, better accessibility for maintenance and the “DI-LOWATT” system for energy savings in fibre transport. The proven carding willow with modified workers and separate drives to create the prerequisites for a good fine opening will also be part of the presentation as well as the fine opening stage which may be installed over the material box of the new card feeder FRS-P to achieve a high dosing accuracy in cross and longitudinal direction.  
 
DiloSpinnbau has a new “Unifeed” card feeder (VRS-P) which combines the principle of volumetric charged feeding with the characteristics of a chute feeder but without the conventional overhead trunk which allows for lower ceiling height requirement. The fibre flock matt is condensed by a vacuum delivery apron to give better uniformity of mass distribution. The distribution over the working width is controlled by additional flaps. This feeder can be adapted for medium/fine, coarse/medium or long staple fibres.
 
The “VectorQuadroCard” by DiloSpinnbau incorporates a modular transfer group between breast and main section. The quick change facility of this roller group provides different carding options. The delivery system is also flexible to provide parallel laid, random or condensed web. The preopener section on this card has 4 worker/stripper pairs with five pairs on the main cylinder. Emphasis is on high throughput with good web quality.
 
The revised HyperLayer NT offered by DiloMachines presents the latest state-of-the-art highspeed precision layering technique setting new standards which play an important role especially in hydroentanglement lines. In this application, it is important to achieve layering speeds up to 190 m/minute using sophisticated viscose fibres and a layering width of about 4 m while at the same time having a high layering precision in cross and longitudinal direction.  
 
DiloMachines will also present its portfolio to improve quality and reduce costs. The FutureLine study “3D-Lofter” – first presented at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona – is part of this programme. In this study individual web forming units can deposit fibre masses on freely programmable spots in longitudinal and cross direction thus saving overall fibre mass in applications such as deep moulded parts for the automotive interior. This ability reduces costs in production and operation. The “IsoFeed” concept for a more even flock mat for direct cards and aerodynamic web forming is another interesting field of web mat quality improvement.