From the Sector

It is estimated that around 100 billion items of clothing are currently produced worldwide, most of which will end up in recycling processes. Sorting these old textiles by hand requires an enormous amount of human labour. A research team is now developing new technologies that will enable robotic grippers to sort textiles more effectively.

“At present, automatic sorting systems mainly use contactless methods, such as visual and near-infrared sensors. But when people sort old textiles, they can do much more: When they touch the textiles, they can also quickly classify what should be reused and what should be recycled based on the feel of the fabric”, Hubert Zangl, project manager of AdapTex at the Department of Smart Systems Technologies at the University of Klagenfurt explains. If you want robotic grippers to perform this work, he goes on to explain, many challenges remain: “Physical interaction with objects and the evaluation of haptic feedback are not yet sufficiently developed in robotics. When sorting textiles, robots have to work in a complex environment with randomly assembled quantities of textiles made from different materials and in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Contamination can further complicate matters.”

The central factor here is the gripping process, which is crucial for the effective sorting of these materials in recycling plants. The research team is therefore focusing on improving the physical interaction between the robot gripper and the textiles with the aim of improving both the handling and the classification of the textiles. To this end, the researchers are developing textile-based, adaptive sensor skins for the robotic grippers. “These will be intelligent materials containing networks of sensors and actuators that can adapt optimally when touched,” says Hubert Zangl. The unique properties of AdapTex skin offer potential not only for use in textile recycling, but also in many other areas of the textile industry, such as sportswear, lifestyle clothing, and rehabilitation garments. It might also be possible to use the improved capabilities and functions for robots deployed in industrial manufacturing and automation.

The AdapTex project is coordinated at the University of Klagenfurt and the AAU/SAL USE Lab. The project partners are Grabher Group GmbH, Infineon Technologies Austria AG, Silicon Austria Labs GmbH and V-trion GmbH. AdapTex is supported by the Austrian Research Promotion Agency FFG.

Introducing PET fibers and filament yarns made solely from discard textile waste, lower carbon bio-fibers, and more, Indorama Ventures expands dejaTM portfolio to boost textile industry sustainability:
The company expands its fiber and filament yarn portfolio called dejaTM to boost sustainability. The goal is to actively drive circularity and decarbonization efforts in the global textile industry and to prepare for supporting the upcoming European Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR).

Three key offerings add to the company’s deja portfolio, addressing customers’ main sustainability challenges:

1. On-demand solutions for textile circularity, providing deja PET fibers and filament yarns made solely from enhanced recycled textile waste that was being discarded. Products available on customers’ request are high-tenacity yarns and cords for technical applications like airbags and seat belts, as well as fibers and filament yarns for lifestyle applications, such as apparel and home textiles. Customers interested to drive circularity and reduce greenhouse gas emissions, while keeping performance equal to standard solutions, are encouraged to request more information at enquiry.fibers@indorama.net.
2. deja Bio: Solutions to help customers reduce their carbon footprint. Thanks to its fully integrated, in-house PET supply chain, Indorama Ventures can deliver high-performing deja PET yarns out of Europe and Asia that have a substantially reduced carbon footprint. All of them comply with the accounting methodology of the ‘Together for Sustainability’ industry initiative.

Indorama Ventures takes a mass balance approach to increase the use of renewable sources, benefitting from eleven ISCC+ (International Sustainability and Carbon Certification) certified sites across its entire business, including PTA, PET chips, fibers, and technical fabrics. The mass balance approach is a chain-of-custody method that allows manufacturers to mix sustainable and conventional inputs like renewable and fossil-based materials in a shared production system, while still allocating the environmental benefits of the sustainable inputs to a portion of the output.

High-tenacity yarns and tire cord fabrics available in the bio-based deja portfolio allow for a progressive bio-content introduction into customers’ products. Customers can benefit from avoiding or simplifying qualification procedures and receive the same performance as from fossil solutions. Further, these products can be given new life through mechanical or enhanced recycling.

1. deja Enhanced: Products that give hard-to-recycle packaging and textile waste new life. In close collaboration with like-minded partners along the value chain, Indorama Ventures is also looking at ways to convert hard-to-recycle packaging into fibers and yarns through enhanced recycling. These solutions are readily available at similar level of performance as fossil solutions. In future, these products will also be supplied with flexible proportions of reprocessed textile feedstock to accommodate customers’ circular targets.
2. Customers and brand owners are invited to take a closer look at what the expanded deja™ fibers & yarns portfolio offers during Textiles Recycling Expo on June 4-5 in Brussels, booth no. 1825. As one of the leading events dedicated to textile recycling and circularity, this expo brings together industry leaders, innovators, and decision-makers to shape the future of sustainable textiles.
3. Claire Mattelet, Global Sustainability Program Head for Indorama Ventures’ Fibers Business, says: With the expanded deja portfolio, we are turning ambition into action – empowering our customers to meet their circularity and decarbonization goals through innovative, high-performance PET fibers and yarns made from textile waste, bio-based inputs, and hard-to-recycle materials. This is how we shape the future of sustainable textiles without compromising on quality or performance.”
4. With most of the textile waste globally being incinerated or landfilled, the global fashion industry accounts for an estimated 3 to 8 percent of total greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions. According to recent reports1,2, the industry’s emissions are expected to increase by about 30 percent by 2030 if no further action is taken1. In response, Indorama Ventures has set a 2030 target of 40% of recycled and bio-based feedstock of its current commodity feedstock. Taking a leading role and collaborating along the entire value chain to drive sustainable practices in the man-made fibers industry is at the core of Indorama Ventures’ commitment to shaping the future of textiles.

In response to Mali’s escalating environmental crisis, three organizations— Ayuda en Acción, Indorama Ventures, and IMG Group —have joined forces to launch ‘Bamagreen,’ a transformative recycling and reforestation project in the capital city of Bamako.

This initiative is the first under the Plastic2Prosperity program, developed through the adaPETation® network by IMG Group. The project will strengthen plastic circularity while generating tangible socio-economic benefits, particularly for vulnerable communities including conflict-displaced populations, women, and young people. This partnership aims to demonstrate how recycling not only benefits the environment but also generates socio-economic opportunities in complex settings.

Creating Jobs and Regenerating Communities
At the heart of the initiative is a commitment to inclusive development. Bamagreen will directly engage around 1,950 individuals—40% of them women—in stable, dignified employment opportunities through recycling and environmental awareness efforts. In addition, more than 100,000 people are expected to benefit from city-wide reforestation and waste education campaigns.

The program will bolster the recycling capabilities of local social enterprise ECOBUILD and introduce integrated environmental education to reduce the impact of unmanaged plastic waste in Bamako, where open dumping and deforestation are accelerating pollution and desertification.

A Shared Vision for Circular Impact
“This agreement reflects our commitment to sustainability and to creating opportunities for the most vulnerable populations,” said Jean Christophe Gerard, Regional Coordinator for the Sahel at Ayuda en Acción. “We are not only addressing an environmental problem but also providing economic opportunities for those who need them most.”

“At Indorama Ventures, we believe that waste is not just a problem—it’s a powerful opportunity,” said Yash Lohia, Executive President and Chairman of the ESG Council at Indorama Ventures, a global sustainable chemical company. “By raising awareness and investing in circular solutions like Plastic2Prosperity, we can transform environmental challenges into engines of socio-economic growth. This project in Mali shows what’s possible when we work together to regenerate communities and our planet.”

Carlota Calonje, Social Impact Manager at IMG Group, added: “Bamagreen embodies everything we aim to achieve with adaPETation®: transforming environmental challenges into opportunities to empower people and rebuild communities. This is only the beginning—we aim to scale this model to other regions where plastic is part of both the problem and the solution.”

RE&UP announced a new partnership with Marchi & Fildi to co-develop a new generation of premium recycled cotton yarns. The collaboration – currently at pre-industrial stage – combines RE&UP’s cutting-edge textile-to-textile recycling technology with Marchi & Fildi’s deep expertise in sustainable yarn development and manufacturing.

With the goal of reaching all levels of the textile value chain, the project represents a key milestone in the evolution of circular innovation. The recycled cotton fibers used in the initiative come from RE&UP’s fully integrated process, which transforms post-consumer waste into high-quality raw materials ready for industrial application.

RE&UP and Marchi & Fildi bring together a powerful blend of innovation and excellence. This collaboration is driven by a shared belief: that circularity must go hand in hand with uncompromising quality. By combining RE&UP’s breakthrough recycling technology with Marchi & Fildi’s expertise in premium yarn development, the two companies are laying the groundwork for scalable, high-performance solutions that can elevate the entire textile value chain.

Ina Brandes, Minister for Culture and Science of the state of North Rhine-Westphalia, visited Institute Director Professor Dr Thomas Gries in person on 7 March to gain an impression of research at Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University. Their tour took them through the central steps of the textile process chain - from primary spinning and fibre spinning processes to modern composites such as fibre composites and textile concrete. The ITA focuses on sustainability, circular economy and bioeconomy and offers comprehensive training programmes, from industrial training to doctorates. As a technology driver in textile technology, the ITA emphases on digitalisation and automation and the use of artificial intelligence (AI), especially neural networks, which have been under development at ITA for more than 30 years.

ITA researches and develops technical textiles for the needs of today and tomorrow. This includes, for example, the BIOTURF project. It is part of the BIOTEXFUTURE innovation area for bio-based textile research funded by the Federal Ministry of Education and Research. The aim here is to convert the textile value chain from petroleum-based to bio-based. Another major project is WIRKsam Competence Centre. By designing AI-supported work, WIRKsam aims to improve the competitiveness of companies and to make work healthier and more attractive. Other project examples include sustainable pipeline systems for the future, textile recycling and reducing the CO² footprint. ITA is researching, for example, how recyclable insulation textiles can contribute to thermal insulation or how textiles can be used to automatically and sustainably remove oil spills from water. To this end, ITA is active worldwide and internationally, including in cooperation with South Korea on industrial digitalisation and renewable energies, to name just a few examples.

With more than 100 doctoral students and a total of around 400 employees, ITA is one of the five largest institutes at RWTH Aachen University.

Science Minister Ina Brandes: “Prof. Thomas Gries and his team are demonstrating outstanding work at Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University. For over 90 years, ITA has been researching, developing, and designing advanced textiles – for example sustainable fibres that reduce the use of petroleum-based materials. The different possible uses of the materials are impressive: from artificial soccer turf to sportswear, medical materials such as heart valves, and textile-reinforced concrete for building construction. New technologies and strong networks between science and industry empower ITA to significant textile progress.“

International technology group ANDRITZ has supplied and commissioned a reXline tearing system for Buitex, Semin Group, located in Cours, France. The new production line enables the company to expand textile waste recycling for sustainable insulation production.

Founded in 1895, Buitex is a French manufacturer of high-performance recycled products. As a pioneer in circular economy practices, Buitex transforms textile waste into high-performance insulation and comfort products. Since joining the Semin Group in 2023, the company has operated a 20,000 m² production site equipped with six production lines and has become one of Europe’s major players in the circular economy.

This second ANDRITZ tearing line at Buitex increases the company’s recycling capacity while maintaining high fiber purity, thanks to an advanced hard-point removal system. The latest-generation cyclone technology further improves disruptor sorting, enhancing overall efficiency. The system can process up to an additional 2.5 tons of fiber per hour, enabling the production of recycled fibers for applications such as bedding, construction, and automotive insulation.

"It is crucial for us to make the building insulation industry more sustainable by giving new life to post-consumer clothes that would otherwise be incinerated or end up in landfills. The European market has abundant raw materials and a strong demand for sustainable insulation products. With this new line, ANDRITZ enables us to significantly enhance our recycling capabilities,” says Adam Adamowicz, CEO of Buitex.

March, 5 marks the official launch of the T2T Alliance - Powering Policy for a Textile-to-Textile Future, spearheaded by recyclers Circ, Circulose, RE&UP, Syre to advocate for their sector within the EU policy framework and beyond. With the textile industry at a critical juncture, the T2T Alliance unites key stakeholders to secure their place at the heart of Europe’s circular economy policies. By bringing recyclers’ expertise to the forefront, the T2T Alliance is driving policy change that supports a thriving, resilient and truly sustainable textile industry.

Set to become the defining textile policy of 2025, the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) will introduce market-entry ecodesign requirements that mandate a significant increase in recycled textile fibers by 2028. Alongside ongoing work in the EcoDesign Forum, the Commission’s technical body is preparing ecodesign requirements and invited stakeholder feedback on its latest report. The T2T Alliance seized the opportunity to provide expert input on the development of ecodesign requirements for textile apparel through:

• Promoting T2T recycled content and recyclability as core requirements in the ESPR ecodesign requirements for textiles
• Supporting a closed-loop textile recycling approach which includes post-industrial, pre-consumer waste and post-consumer waste
• Clarifying misconceptions about the textile recycling industry in the report (for example, by debunking the assumption that allowing post-industrial waste to fulfil recycled content targets would incentivise its overproduction)
• Advocating for a wide range of verification methods for tracing recycled material.

The T2T recycling industry requires urgent strategic intervention to ensure its long-term viability. Closing the loop in the textile industry, textile-to-textile recycling is an innovative process that involves converting used or waste textiles into new textile products. While the developments on the ESPR represent a momentous milestone, the direction that policy discussions are currently taking will have detrimental effects on the growth of T2T recyclers.

Even though the perspective of T2T recyclers is essential for effective policymaking, it seemed to be underrepresented in policy discussions so far. The T2T Alliance is a force to provide policymakers with an understanding of the real-world impact of sustainability policies, holds them accountable and ensures textile circularity is a non-negotiable in EU policy. The group is facilitated by 2B Policy, a consultancy that supports businesses to navigate a regulated future by offering strategic guidance, compliance support and facilitating industry collaboration and association building. The T2T Alliance will act as a hub for advocacy, collaboration and joint action and ensure T2T recyclers’ interests are not just heard but embedded in future textile policies, in the EU and beyond.

The Alliance is committed to:

• Advocating for textile-to-textile recyclers’ perspective in EU legislation and policies.
• Supporting the development of new legal requirements mandating textile-to-textile recycled content and recyclability in new textile products in the context of the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR).
• Removing barriers that hinder the growth and scalability of the T2T industry.

The formation of the T2T Alliance marks a significant milestone in the development toward a truly circular textile economy. By uniting key stakeholders, the Alliance will advocate for textile-to-textile recyclers to receive the necessary recognition in the policy ecosystem and support policymakers in understanding the full impact on T2T recyclers and incorporating these insights into policies.

When PERFORMANCE DAYS opens its doors on March 5-6, 2025, at halls C4 and C5 at Messe München, visitors will once again discover fabric innovations for Spring/Summer 2027 across the Performancewear, Bodywear, and Accessories segments. For the first time, a dedicated Wool Forum will be introduced alongside the existing Trend, Footwear, and Bodywear Forums. A jury of renowned industry experts carefully reviewed the submissions for the upcoming season and awarded a total of four prizes.

At the heart of the event, the Trend Forum will showcase the award-winning fabrics for the first time, including the winners of the PERFORMANCE AWARD and the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD. As the dedicated Footwear Area will now only appear at the fall fair, this year’s Footwear Forum will also be integrated into the Trend Forum in Hall C4. Additionally, visitors can explore the first-ever Wool Forum, located in the Wool Area, which mirrors the setup of the Bodywear Forum in the Bodywear Collective.

The jury, led by Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS, along with Clarissa Stadelmann (Product Manager), Jury Head Alexa Dehmel, Regina Goller (Head of Innovation & Future Trends), and guest juror Laura Howe, Fabric Technologist at Mountain Equipment, expressed their enthusiasm for the outstanding submissions.

Sustainability and innovation in focus: Wool makes a grand comeback
The materials were divided into 13 categories, including 3-layer membranes, baselayers, workwear, bags, waterproof 2-layer fabrics, wool, and others. A particular emphasis was placed on this season’s Focus Topic: “Certifications – Which Ones Matter?”. The top 28 fabrics from each category, along with insights from the Focus Topic compiled by CSR specialist Anna Schuster, will be presented in the Trend Forum.

Previous focus topics have significantly elevated the quality of submissions. The Fall 2024 topic, “Colorization: Chemistry is Everywhere,” spurred a rise in the use of bio-synthetic dyes. Meanwhile, the Spring 2024 theme, “The Future of Polyester: Beyond the Bottle,” showcased advancements in textile-to-textile recycling materials.

This year, developments in the categories of Membranes, Safety & Durability (including aramid fibers), and Wool particularly stood out. Wool demonstrated exceptional versatility, being used in applications ranging from windbreakers to shirts. There was also notable growth in materials such as hemp-lyocell blends, recycled polyamide, and multi-component yarns. Two standout fabrics included a “Hulk fabric” featuring color-shifting effects under tension and a luxuriously soft modal-cashmere knit.

The award-winning innovations and highlighted materials will be on display during PERFORMANCE DAYS on March 5-6, 2025, in halls C4 and C5 at Messe München.

The joint venture between the Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) and Project:
Plan B, known as Project Re:Claim, uses an ISEC evo system from PURE LOOP to process used garments and textiles. The project, supported by the EREMA Group, represents Europe’s first commercial scale polyester textile recycling system. Project Re:Claim is the first recycling system for textile polyester in Europe, specialising in post-consumer and post-industrial textiles.

On 22 November, the prestigious Plastics Industry Awards ceremony was held in London, UK. Project Re:Claim was recognised in the “Recycler of the Year” category. The partner companies accepted the award together with great enthusiasm.

Manfred Dobersberger, Managing Director of PURE LOOP, said: “We are incredibly proud of this recognition, which once again proves that going the extra mile truly pays off. The PURE LOOP team believed in taking new paths, and now we are being rewarded with this award. It’s a well- deserved acknowledgment of the hard work and determination our team has shown. Project Re:Claim is a true example of how successful collaboration between companies can drive forward textile recycling. I’m eager to see where this journey will take us.”

James Holmes, Production Director at Plan B, said: “We are thrilled to receive this prestigious award, which underscores the dedication and innovation that Project Plan B brings to the table. The success of Project Re:Claim is a testament to the power of collaboration and the relentless pursuit of sustainability. Our team at Plan B, in partnership with SATCoL and PURE LOOP, has worked tirelessly to create a groundbreaking recycling system that addresses the pressing issue of textile waste. This recognition motivates us to continue pushing the boundaries of what is possible in textile recycling. We are excited about the future and the positive impact we can make on the environment.”

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an engineering order from US textile recycling innovator Circ in anticipation of its first large-scale textile recycling plant. The plant will be the first to recover cotton and polyester from blended textile waste.

Circ® is a pioneering company focused on sustainable solutions for the fashion industry. By converting fashion waste into reusable raw materials for fabrics, Circ reduces the need for petroleum and natural resources. The company’s mission is to build a truly circular economy to protect the planet from the cost of clothing.

ANDRITZ has been successfully conducting trials for Circ at the ANDRITZ Fiber R&D Center in Springfield, Ohio, USA, for several years. The successful partnership and recent developments have led to the decision to expand this cooperation.

The majority of fashion waste consists of polyester-cotton blends, which poses a significant challenge to achieving greater circularity. In particular, the separation of cellulosic and synthetic fibers from textile waste has been a major obstacle. Circ’s innovative recycling process can break down polycotton textile waste into its original components – polyester and cotton. The forthcoming plant will process 200 tons of textile waste per day, allowing cotton to be recycled for lyocell production and polyester to be reused for polyester production. This will reduce the need for virgin raw materials.

Conor Hartman, Chief Operating Officer at Circ, says: “We remain excited about this continued collaboration with ANDRITZ. Together, we will commercialize Circ’s innovative recycling process and take another step towards a truly circular fashion industry. With its expertise in engineering and building large-scale process equipment, ANDRITZ is the right partner to help us transform textile waste into recycled fibers on an industrial level.

Michael Waupotitsch, Vice President Textile Recycling at ANDRITZ, comments: “We are eager to support Circ in their vision of circularity because the technology they have developed is uniquely suited to solve one of the biggest challenges in fashion waste and recycling. With our holistic knowledge in resizing, mechanical separation, hydrothermal processing, recovery of cellulosic pulp as well as pulp cleaning and pulp drying, we have the right expertise to help them achieve their goals. Our experience in process development and machinery will help bring their innovative recycling technology to life.”