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Fashion Revolution
19.08.2022

Results of the FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2022

The world’s largest fashion brands and retailers must increase transparency to tackle the climate crisis and social inequality, according to the latest Fashion Transparency Index.

The seventh edition of the Fashion Transparency Index ranks 250 of the world’s largest fashion brands and retailers based on their public disclosure of human rights and environmental policies, practices, and impacts, across their operations and supply chains.

  • Brands achieved an average score of just 24%, with nearly a third of brands scoring less than 10%
  • The majority of brands (85%) do not disclose their annual production volumes despite mounting evidence of clothing waste around the world
  • Most major brands and retailers (96%) do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage

The Index reveals insights into the most pressing issues facing the fashion industry, like:

The world’s largest fashion brands and retailers must increase transparency to tackle the climate crisis and social inequality, according to the latest Fashion Transparency Index.

The seventh edition of the Fashion Transparency Index ranks 250 of the world’s largest fashion brands and retailers based on their public disclosure of human rights and environmental policies, practices, and impacts, across their operations and supply chains.

  • Brands achieved an average score of just 24%, with nearly a third of brands scoring less than 10%
  • The majority of brands (85%) do not disclose their annual production volumes despite mounting evidence of clothing waste around the world
  • Most major brands and retailers (96%) do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage

The Index reveals insights into the most pressing issues facing the fashion industry, like:

  • As new and proposed legislation focuses on greenwashing claims, almost half of major brands (45%) publish targets on sustainable materials yet only 37% provide information on what constitutes a sustainable material.
  • Only 24% of major brands disclose how they minimise the impacts of microfibres despite textiles being the largest source of microplastics in the ocean.
  • The vast majority of major brands and retailers (94%) do not disclose the number of workers in their supply chains who are paying recruitment fees. This paints an unclear picture of the risks of forced labour as workers may be getting into crippling debt to accept jobs paying poverty wages.
  • While many brands use their channels to talk about social justice, they need to go beyond lip service. Just 8% of brands publish their actions on racial and ethnic equality in their supply chains.

Despite these results, Fashion Revolution is encouraged by increasing supply chain transparency among many major brands, primarily with first-tier manufacturers where the final stage of production occurs, e.g. cutting, sewing, finishing and packing. Nine brands have disclosed their first-tier manufacturers for the first time this year. It is encouraging to see significant progress across market segments including luxury, sportswear, footwear and accessories and across different geographies.

Fashion Revolution’s co-founder and Global Operations Director Carry Somers says: “In 2016, only 5 out of 40 major brands (12.5%) disclosed their suppliers. Seven years later, 121 out of 250 major brands (48%) disclose their suppliers. This clearly demonstrates how the Index incentivises transparency but it also shows that brands really are listening to the millions of people around the world who keep asking them #WhoMadeMyClothes? Our power is in our persistence.”

More key findings from the Fashion Transparency Index 2022:

Progress on transparency in the global fashion industry is still too slow among 250 of the world’s largest fashion brands and retailers, with brands achieving an overall average score of just 24%, up 1% from last year
For another year, the initiative has seen major brands and retailers publicly disclose the most information about their policies, commitments and processes on human rights and environmental topics and significantly less about the results, outcomes and impacts of their efforts.

Most (85%) major brands still do not disclose their annual production volumes despite mounting evidence of overproduction and clothing waste
Thousands of tonnes of clothing waste are found globally. However, brands have disclosed more information about the circular solutions they are developing (28%) than on the actual volumes of pre- (10%) and post-production waste they produce (8%). Brands have sat by as waste importing countries foot the bill, resulting in serious human rights and environmental implications.

Just 11% of brands publish a responsible purchasing code of conduct indicating that most are still reluctant to disclose how their purchasing practices could be affecting suppliers and workers
Greater transparency on how brands interact with their suppliers ought to be a first step towards eliminating harmful practices and promoting fair purchasing practices. The poor performance on transparency in this vital area is a missed opportunity for brands to demonstrate they are serious about addressing the root causes of harmful working conditions, including the instances where they themselves are the key driver.

Despite the urgency of the climate crisis, less than a third of major brands disclose a decarbonisation target covering their entire supply chain which is verified by the Science-Based Targets Initiative
Many brands and retailers rely heavily on garment producing countries that are vulnerable to the impacts of the climate crisis, yet our research shows that only 29% of major brands and retailers publish a decarbonisation target covering their operations and supply chain which is verified by the Science Based Targets Initiative.

Only 11% of brands publish their supplier wastewater test results, despite the textile industry being a leading contributor to water pollution
The fashion industry is a major contributor to water pollution and one of the most water intensive industries on the planet. Only 11% of major brands publish their wastewater test result, and only 25% of brands disclose the process of conducting water-related risk assessments in their supply chain. Transparency on wastewater test results is key to ensuring that brands are held accountable for their potentially devastating impacts on local biodiversity, garment workers and their communities.

Most major brands and retailers (96%) do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage nor do they disclose if they isolate labour costs
Insufficient progress is being made by most brands towards ensuring that the workers in their supply chain are paid enough to cover their basic needs and put aside some discretionary income. Just 27% of brands disclose their approach to achieving living wages for supply chain workers and 96% do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage. In response, we have joined forces with allies across civil society to launch Good Clothes, Fair Pay. The campaign demands groundbreaking living wage legislation across the garment, textile and footwear sector.

 

Source:

Fashion Revolution

Illustration Linnea Teljas Puranen
24.06.2022

Transparente Mode: I:CO beteiligt sich am Traceability Playbook

SOEX Tochtergesellschaft I:CO wirkte an der Erstellung eines Handbuchs mit, das dabei helfen soll, die Rückverfolgung von Produkten und Materialien innerhalb der Modebranche zu vereinfachen. Unter dem Namen „Traceability Playbook“ veröffentlichte das Team von TrusTrace in Zusammenarbeit mit Fashion for Good und Fashion Revolution eine Anleitung, wie Unternehmen einen Überblick über die Herkunft, Bewegung und Entwicklung von Produkten und Materialien bekommen und kommunizieren können. I:CO legte dafür Informationen über seine Zusammenarbeit mit den großen Marken Mango und H&M offen.

Damit Transparenz Realität wird – sowohl intern als auch extern – streben immer mehr Marken eine Rückverfolgung ihrer gesamten Lieferketten an. Umso mehr Bestandteile und Materialien Teil der Wertschöpfungskette sind, desto komplexer wird die Umsetzung. Das gilt insbesondere für die Modebranche, in der Marken, Hersteller und Lieferanten oft über mehrere Kontinente verteilt sind. Um eine Rückverfolgung möglich zu machen, braucht es eine engere Zusammenarbeit innerhalb der Branche, Automatisierung und datengesteuerte Systeme, das liefert das Traceability Playbook.

SOEX Tochtergesellschaft I:CO wirkte an der Erstellung eines Handbuchs mit, das dabei helfen soll, die Rückverfolgung von Produkten und Materialien innerhalb der Modebranche zu vereinfachen. Unter dem Namen „Traceability Playbook“ veröffentlichte das Team von TrusTrace in Zusammenarbeit mit Fashion for Good und Fashion Revolution eine Anleitung, wie Unternehmen einen Überblick über die Herkunft, Bewegung und Entwicklung von Produkten und Materialien bekommen und kommunizieren können. I:CO legte dafür Informationen über seine Zusammenarbeit mit den großen Marken Mango und H&M offen.

Damit Transparenz Realität wird – sowohl intern als auch extern – streben immer mehr Marken eine Rückverfolgung ihrer gesamten Lieferketten an. Umso mehr Bestandteile und Materialien Teil der Wertschöpfungskette sind, desto komplexer wird die Umsetzung. Das gilt insbesondere für die Modebranche, in der Marken, Hersteller und Lieferanten oft über mehrere Kontinente verteilt sind. Um eine Rückverfolgung möglich zu machen, braucht es eine engere Zusammenarbeit innerhalb der Branche, Automatisierung und datengesteuerte Systeme, das liefert das Traceability Playbook.

Der Leitfaden bietet daher sowohl aktuelle Einblicke als auch Beispiele für bewährte Verfahren und Fachwissen von Vordenkern der Branche. Um aufzuschlüsseln, wie die Sortierung von getragener Kleidung zur Wiederverwendung und Wiederverwertung optimal gestaltet werden kann, gewährte I:CO Einblick in die Zusammenarbeit mit Marken wie H&M und Mango und in die Geschäftspraktiken als Dienstleister im Bereich Sortierung und Recycling.

Das Traceability Playbook wurde erstellt, um den nachhaltigen Wandel in der Modeindustrie voranzutreiben und ist ein vollständiger Leitfaden für die Rückverfolgbarkeit der Lieferkette. Es wurde von TrusTrace in Zusammenarbeit mit Fashion Revolution und Fashion for Good verfasst und stützt sich auf die Expertise von Vordenkern der Branche. Als offene Ressource ist das Handbuch kostenlos und für jeden zugänglich, der mehr über die Rückverfolgbarkeit erfahren möchte und darüber, wie sie genutzt werden kann.

Das Handbuch ist ein Plädoyer für Transparenz und Rückverfolgung auf Produkt- und Materialebene. Denn der Druck auf die Unternehmen wächst, allein durch die politischen Vorstöße für ein europäisches Lieferkettengesetz hat die Rückverfolgung von der Herstellung bis zur Entsorgung deutlich an Wichtigkeit gewonnen. Das Lieferkettengesetz soll EU-Firmen dazu verpflichten, ihre Zulieferer entlang der gesamten globalen Lieferkette zu überprüfen, inklusive aller direkter und indirekter Geschäftsbeziehungen.

Source:

SOEX

09.06.2022

GFA: New sustainability actions at Global Fashion Summit

The Global Fashion Summit was hosted by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) in Copenhagen on 7-8 June. The event was centred around the theme ‘Alliances for a New Era’ and convened over 900 leaders from brands, retailers, NGOs, policy, manufacturers, and innovators to drive urgent action.

Attendees heard from 112 speakers including HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark; Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability & institutional Affairs Officer, Kering; Leo Rongone, CEO, Bottega Veneta; Thierry Andretta, CEO, Mulberry; Lily Cole, Author & Podcaster on climate solutions and Advisor for UNECE; Nicolaj Reffstrup, Founder, GANNI; Maximillian Bittner, CEO, Vestiaire Collective; Paul Polmon, Co-Author, Net Positive; Bobby Kolade, Fashion Designer; Halide Alagöz, Chief Product Officer, Ralph Lauren Corporation; Aditi Mayer, Sustainable fashion blogger and labor rights activist; Lindita Xhaferi Salihu, Fashion Charter Lead, UNFCCC; and more.

Multiple companies, such as GFA, Ralph Lauren, Apparel Impact Institute, Fashion Revolution, GANNI, TrusTrace and Mulberry, chose to announce their latest sustainability measures at the landmark event.

The Global Fashion Summit was hosted by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) in Copenhagen on 7-8 June. The event was centred around the theme ‘Alliances for a New Era’ and convened over 900 leaders from brands, retailers, NGOs, policy, manufacturers, and innovators to drive urgent action.

Attendees heard from 112 speakers including HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark; Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability & institutional Affairs Officer, Kering; Leo Rongone, CEO, Bottega Veneta; Thierry Andretta, CEO, Mulberry; Lily Cole, Author & Podcaster on climate solutions and Advisor for UNECE; Nicolaj Reffstrup, Founder, GANNI; Maximillian Bittner, CEO, Vestiaire Collective; Paul Polmon, Co-Author, Net Positive; Bobby Kolade, Fashion Designer; Halide Alagöz, Chief Product Officer, Ralph Lauren Corporation; Aditi Mayer, Sustainable fashion blogger and labor rights activist; Lindita Xhaferi Salihu, Fashion Charter Lead, UNFCCC; and more.

Multiple companies, such as GFA, Ralph Lauren, Apparel Impact Institute, Fashion Revolution, GANNI, TrusTrace and Mulberry, chose to announce their latest sustainability measures at the landmark event.

Innovation Forum connected fashion companies with sustainable solution providers
This year’s Summit also presented an Innovation Forum, enabling small and large companies to meet with 24 sustainable solution providers – equipping them with the tools to turn words into meaningful actions. More than 300 facilitated business meetings between fashion companies and sustainable solution providers took place during the two days of the Summit.

Mostafiz Uddin Wins Coveted Drapers Sustainable Fashion Champion Award (c) Denim Expert Limited
Mostafiz Uddin
10.03.2021

Mostafiz Uddin Wins Coveted Drapers Sustainable Fashion Champion Award

  • Mostafiz Uddin, Managing Director of Denim Expert Limited and Founder of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) has won Sustainable Fashion Champion at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards 2021, which took place virtually on 10 March.

On receiving the award, Mostafiz said he wants to be a game-changer in the apparel industry, leading by example to inspire others to behave responsibly and ethically.

He also dedicated the award to H&M which, he explained, supported his business, Denim Expert, through the pandemic by continuing to place orders He said the loyal support of the Swedish fashion giant almost certainly helped save the livelihoods of 2000 workers at his factory and their 10000 family members. “That’s true sustainability leadership,” he said.

The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards recognise steps being made in reducing the fashion industry’s environmental impact and creating fairer working conditions across the supply chain.
Judged by an independent panel of sustainability and fashion retail experts, the awards shine a spotlight on best practice within the global fashion industry.

  • Mostafiz Uddin, Managing Director of Denim Expert Limited and Founder of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) has won Sustainable Fashion Champion at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards 2021, which took place virtually on 10 March.

On receiving the award, Mostafiz said he wants to be a game-changer in the apparel industry, leading by example to inspire others to behave responsibly and ethically.

He also dedicated the award to H&M which, he explained, supported his business, Denim Expert, through the pandemic by continuing to place orders He said the loyal support of the Swedish fashion giant almost certainly helped save the livelihoods of 2000 workers at his factory and their 10000 family members. “That’s true sustainability leadership,” he said.

The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards recognise steps being made in reducing the fashion industry’s environmental impact and creating fairer working conditions across the supply chain.
Judged by an independent panel of sustainability and fashion retail experts, the awards shine a spotlight on best practice within the global fashion industry.

Covid-19 has presented unforeseen challenges for fashion retailers and brands, but it has also given us all an opportunity to build back better. Forward-thinking fashion businesses know change is not optional, and are embracing their responsibilities and ability to make a difference.

Mostafiz Uddin has been recognised as the Sustainable Fashion Champion 2021 for setting examples in promoting sustainability during the Covid-19 pandemic which broke out worldwide in March last year.
Jill Geoghegan, Acting Editor of Drapers, said: “Despite the challenges thrown up by the Coronavirus pandemic, fashion brands and retailers increasingly recognise that sustainability is a business imperative.”  
“Many businesses continued to invest in cleaning up their supply chains and introducing new models of working, despite the unprecedented trading conditions.

“The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards highlight and celebrate these advancements, paving the way for a more responsible future for the industry.” Managing Director of Denim Expert Limited Mostafiz Uddin said: “In the pandemic, my factory Denim Expert Limited kept true to its commitment towards sustainability, despite an extremely difficult trading landscape.

“During the pandemic, I was vocal about the issue of buyer-supplier relationships and, in speaking out, I wanted to champion the cause of suppliers all over the world. Too often suppliers in garment supply chains do not have a voice because they fear that by speaking out, they will be treated unfavourably by brands.

“This was, of course, a risk on my own part but I like to think I stood up for what I think is right and ultimately, I believe progressive brands understood I was coming from a good place. Like them, all I want to see is a fair, ethical and sustainable industry where brands and retailers work in an environment of collaboration, not conflict.”

Mostafiz also had some special praise for H&M. He said: “It would have not been possible for me to support my workers during the pandemic, had my factory not received help from H&M during the unprecedented time. While Denim Expert suffered from huge orders cancellation and orders hold, H&M supported us by placing orders in the pandemic that saved thousands of lives and livelihoods. Therefore, I would like to dedicate this Award to H&M and its CEO Helena Helmersson.”

The judges of Drapers Sustainable Fashion Champion Award 2021 have been Kerry Bannigan, Founder, Conscious Fashion Campaign; Sarah Ditty, Global Policy Director, Fashion Revolution; Miriam Lahage, Founder, Aequip; Samata Pattinson, CEO, Red Carpet Green Dress; Caroline Rush, Chief Executive Officer, British Fashion Council; Lucy Shea, Group CEO, Futerra; Jane Shepherdson, Chairman, My Wardrobe HQ; and Dilys Williams, Director, Centre for Sustainable Fashion.

Primary Vittorio Segramora of San Gerardo Hospital with a nurse wearing one of the 1,800 donated gowns (c) GB Network
Primary Vittorio Segramora of San Gerardo Hospital with a nurse wearing one of the 1,800 donated gowns
29.04.2020

Call to action of the fashion world

  • Diana, Giusy, Simona and Marina. The call to action of the fashion world was born from four women engaged in the field of sustainability. On the occasion of Fashion Revolution Week, we tell you their story and the results achieved

A task force of Italian textile companies active in our area supported the first call to action launched at the fashion world by four women who have always been involved in the field of sustainability. The appeal launched on March 19th by the green journalist Diana de Marsanich, Giusy Bettoni, founder and CEO of C.L.A.S.S.

  • Diana, Giusy, Simona and Marina. The call to action of the fashion world was born from four women engaged in the field of sustainability. On the occasion of Fashion Revolution Week, we tell you their story and the results achieved

A task force of Italian textile companies active in our area supported the first call to action launched at the fashion world by four women who have always been involved in the field of sustainability. The appeal launched on March 19th by the green journalist Diana de Marsanich, Giusy Bettoni, founder and CEO of C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy)the eco multi-platform hub specialized in integrating a new generation of eco values into fashion, products and companies, Simona Roveda, Editorial Director and Director of Institutional Communication of LifeGate and Marina Spadafora, Italian Country Coordinator of Fashion Revolution and currently collaborating with Luxury Fashion Brands to implement responsible strategies in their companies have luaunched a call-to-action project which has brought together textile companies to manufacture PPE garments for the medical staff working in San Gerardo Hospital in Monza, near Milan.

The companies that answered the call-to-action are: Filo d’Oro, Mantero, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy) e Zerobarracento, Iluna Group, Lg Electronics, Jimmy Lion, Personal Genomics, Isamar Holyday Village, Marcolin Eyewear, Maglificio Ripa.

During the last weeks the 4 women collected about 1,800 non-drip cotton and non-woven TNT gowns for sanitary use, about 400 protective masks for multipurpose washable, bacteriostatic, breathable and water-repellent prevention, 1,000 washable cotton surgical caps, 150 complete protective googles eye masks, two microwave ovens for hospital departments to offer support to medical and healthcare personnel by helping them in the few breaks during the grueling shifts of this period, a supply of samples of cotton socks, 300 cotton masks + polyester outer layer, water-repellent and antibacterial, and free weekly stays made available to doctors, nurses, civil protection personnel and families with related children involved in the Covid-19 pandemic.

Source:

GB Network Marketing Communications Srl