From the Sector

The October 2025 edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS, taking place from October 29–30 in Munich, will spotlight a topic that is vital for the future of the textile industry: the role of recyclers in an increasingly circular economy. Under the new Focus Topic “Textile to Textile – the role of recyclers”, the fair aims to provide in-depth insights into one of the most pressing challenges of the industry.

The linear textile model is nearing its end. With increasing regulatory pressures such as Extended Producer Responsibility EPR and Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules PEFCR, circularity is shifting from aspiration to necessity. While mechanical recycling of PET bottles is well established, textile-to-textile T2T recycling remains at an earlier and more complex stage of development.

Recyclers are now playing a pivotal role in the transition to circular systems. However, many are still adapting to the scale and technical challenges involved. T2T recycling is not a standalone solution and it is part of a broader transformation that also requires reducing overproduction, encouraging reuse and repair, and rethinking design and consumption models.

The urgency is clear: the global textile industry generates 92 million tonnes of waste annually, yet less than 1% is recycled into new clothing (Ellen MacArthur Foundation). Unlike downcycling or waste-to-energy methods, T2T recycling retains material quality, enabling the production of new garments from existing ones. The ultimate goal is a closed-loop system that minimizes waste and reduces dependency on virgin resources.

In Europe, policy is accelerating this shift. The EU Waste Framework Directive mandates separate collection of textiles by 2025. In parallel, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles promotes the reduction of virgin material use and enhances resource efficiency. These initiatives are driving investment in sorting technologies, digital product passports, and advanced recycling systems.

Regina Goller, Head of Material Strategy and Future Trends, explains:
“Circularity is the key topic of our time – and textile-to-textile recycling is a core pillar of the circular economy. The industry is working intensively on solutions, and much is already possible, even on a large scale. At the same time, new regulations are demanding concrete action. At PERFORMANCE DAYS, we see it as our mission to raise awareness – both for what is already possible and what lies ahead. We connect the right players and build the networks needed to truly close the loop.”

Girbau is driving more efficient and connected automation with the new version of its Genius system, the expanded-capacity Genius washers, and the intelligent Sortech sorter.

Girbau will once again take part in Clean Show, the leading industrial laundry event in North America, held from August 23 to 26 in Atlanta, Georgia (USA). This year, the company’s proposal focuses on connectivity, efficiency, and innovation in professional and self-service laundry. 

The company will host live demonstrations of its latest industrial and commercial laundry solutions, including new machine models, connected systems, and integrated platforms designed to optimise efficiency, performance, and user experience.

Among the main highlights this year are the new Genius XL washers, which expand the Genius range with high-capacity models — available in 40, 57, and 110 kg versions. The entire range now features Genius 3.0, an upgrade that enhances connectivity and introduces new functionalities such as remote updates, customised programme and screen management,and daily reports without the need for additional systems, making it easier to optimise consumption and maintain operational control.

The company will also showcase industrial equipment such as the CompactPro folder and ironer, the DRE automatic feeder, and notably, the Sortech sorting system – an advanced solution that automates the sorting and classification of soiled laundry using UHF RFID technology. This system improves efficiency and safety while reducing training and maintenance time, making it ideal for high-volume laundries.

During Clean Show, attendees will have the opportunity to connect directly with Girbau staff, customers, and distributors, and engage in dynamic interactions at the booth, where new products will be presented alongside sessions on commercial sales, the Sortech system, the Genius range, and the Tunnel Batch System, providing a comprehensive overview of the company’s latest innovations. There will also be attractive financing options, special promotions, and a lively live programme.

REMONDIS and H&M Group formed a joint venture, Looper Textile Co, an independent company that collects, sorts and enables reuse and recycling of textiles. Rhenus 4PL Solutions GmbH, a Rhenus Group company, is supporting the venture as REMONDIS' contractual partner by providing advanced logistics solutions – including the centralized coordination of transport flows, end-to-end supply chain visibility, and the implementation of a digital 4PL Control Tower tailored to the specific requirements of circular textile logistics.

Smart Solutions for Circular Textile Flows
Looper Textile Co. is an independent joint venture owned by H&M Group and REMONDIS. The company has set itself the goal of collecting and sorting used clothing and textiles for reuse and recycling in order to make the best possible use of these valuable resources. “The need for collection and sorting solutions has never been greater, and Looper is uniquely positioned to drive meaningful change,” says Erik Lagerblad, CEO of Looper Textile Co.

“Used textiles are one of the largest material flows in the world. We rely on digital solutions and our expertise in the circular economy to efficiently coordinate the movement of collected volumes of 150 million pieces per year. Together, we want to take the sustainable use of textiles into the future,” commented Simon Bodmer, Head of Logistics Department at REMONDIS Recycling GmbH & Co. KG.

Enabling circular flows: Over 70 million garments sorted in 2024
Looper Textile Co. enables circular textiles through reuse and preparing for recycling. Operating out of two sorting facilities in Germany and one in Poland, while working with a global network of partners, Looper sorts into over 200 categories based on material and garment type. In 2023, the first year of operations, Looper helped extend the life of over 40 million garments, and over 72 million garments in 2024, 65% reuse, 25% recycling, and <10% responsibly disposed due to contamination. A commitment to innovation within Looper includes a pilot line for automated sorting using near-infrared and optical sensor technology, meeting the precise material requirements of emerging textile-to-textile recycling solutions.

Rhenus 4PL Control Tower for transparency in Looper’s supply chain
As part of the project, Rhenus 4PL Solutions GmbH is deploying its 4PL Control Tower – a central digital platform that enables real-time coordination and monitoring of all logistics activities across the supply chain. As a Fourth Party Logistics (4PL) provider, Rhenus assumes overarching responsibility for managing logistics partners and processes. The system has been specifically tailored to support the requirements of the circular economy, ensuring full transparency, optimized material flows, and efficient, data-driven supply chain operations. In a circular project like Looper Textile Co., the Control Tower plays a key role in enabling textile reuse and recycling by seamlessly coordinating all stakeholders and creating end-to-end visibility.

“Our 4PL Control Tower provides a central platform for the coordinated and integrated management of all logistics activities and increases visibility along the entire value chain. This is crucial to achieving Looper Textile Co.'s goals,” explains Chris Gerfertz, Managing Global Director at Rhenus 4PL Solutions.

The textile industry continues to face growing regulatory and market pressures to shift toward more sustainable and inclusive production models.

Launched at the June Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2025, the Fashion Impact Toolkit provides an impact inventory and framework to help textile companies navigate sustainability  challenges. This interactive resource is designed for companies across the complex textile value chain, from raw material producers and retailers to recyclers and remanufacturers, and is applicable across major sub-sectors, including high-street fashion, luxury, footwear, sportswear, and textile manufacturing. It can serve as a starting point to help companies map their areas of influence based on parameters such as materials, processes, and geographies.

“We hope that the Fashion Impact Toolkit will be a valuable resource for the textile industry as it navigates increasing regulatory and stakeholder pressure,” says Federica Marchionni, CEO of the Global Fashion Agenda. “By identifying and acting upon the most critical sustainability implications across the value chain, companies can foster greater resilience, trust, and long-term transformation. We are proud to collaborate with Deloitte to support this much-needed shift.”

Developing an impact inventory
The Fashion Impact Toolkit outlines nearly 3,000 potential impacts across value chain stages, including challenges and opportunities, to help inform leaders’ decision-making. Geographical scoping was applied to serve as the basis for identifying potential impacts across the main stages of the textile lifecycle.

The resulting value chain mapping and impact inventory highlight key hotspots and pressure points across six distinct stages: production of materials, garments manufacturing, product distribution and use, end-of-life management, material recycling, and high-value recovery activities.

A framework to help drive transformation
The interactive Fashion Impact Toolkit is structured according to the current European Financial Reporting Advisory Group’s (EFRAG) European Sustainability Reporting Standards (ESRS). To help organizations navigate the toolkit and turn insights into action, the toolkit follows a seven-step framework: 

1. Identify the position in the value chain
2. Generate material- and geography-specific insights
3. Translate potential sector-wide impacts to company-specific ones
4. Quantify the identified potential impacts
5. Define the risks and opportunities
6. Shape the ambition and strategy
7. Collaborate for systemic change

A stepping stone to circular transition
The Fashion Impact Toolkit can serve as a stepping stone toward a circular economy. Circular strategies can help reduce a wide range of identified environmental impacts and can be effective in building resilience across the value chain. 

At the event titled "The Transformation Journey of the Turkish Apparel Industry," coordinated by the Istanbul Apparel Exporters’ Association (İHKİB), Mustafa Gültepe, Chairman of the Turkish Exporters Assembly (TİM), delivered a speech. In order to strengthen their competitiveness, the Customs Union should be updated without further delay.

Mustafa Gültepe: The Customs Union in its current form is limiting rather than supporting our cooperation. We would like the ongoing technical contacts to be completed as soon as possible. Because we know that permanent competitive advantage in the EU market can only be possible with the full modernization of the Customs Union.

Mustafa Gültepe, Chairman of the Turkish Exporters Assembly (TİM), said that the Customs Union between the European Union (EU) and Türkiye in its current form has a limiting effect rather than supporting cooperation between the parties.

Gültepe, who also holds the position of Chairman of the Istanbul Apparel Exporters’ Association (İHKİB), underlined that a permanent competitive edge in the EU market can only be attained through the full and comprehensive modernization of the Customs Union.

The event titled “The Transformation Journey of the Turkish Apparel Industry,” organized by the Istanbul Apparel Exporters’ Association (İHKİB), brought together exporters, international brands, industry professionals and experts.
In his opening remarks, Mustafa Gültepe emphasized that the apparel industry is among Türkiye’s most vital sectors, thanks to its high value-added production, employment generation, and export performance.

Highlighting the European Union as a strategic market for the Turkish apparel sector, Gültepe continued as follows:

TÜRKİYE should be included in the EU'S FTAs with third countries
“We export approximately 70 percent of our apparel products to Europe. We hold a strong position in many European markets, particularly in Germany, Spain, and the Netherlands. Our strategic advantage as a nearshore supplier further reinforces our competitive standing. However, we are aware that in the medium and long term, these advantages alone will not be sufficient.

With this awareness, we are determined to accelerate our twin transformation—digital and green. We are effectively utilizing EU funds to support this transition. To date, we have secured a total of 37 million euros in grant funding from the EU for our completed and ongoing projects. 

Today, in areas such as recycling, carbon footprint reduction, digitalization, and social compliance, we have reached—or even surpassed—European standards. I have no doubt that we will successfully complete the twin transformation.

Find attached the full press release of the Istanbul Apparel Exporters’ Association (İHKİB).

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has updated its report on Key Areas of Regulatory Challenge with new topics in line with the European Union’s Competitiveness Compass and the Clean Industrial Deal. Specific scientific research is needed to better protect people and the environment from hazardous chemicals and to develop balanced and effective regulatory measures.

The report introduces new topics to reflect ECHA’s growing responsibilities. It also covers emerging topics in waste and recycling that aim to support circularity and enhance Europe’s industrial competitiveness. 

For example, more specific research is needed on:  

• chemical emissions and exposure from the waste stage of materials to help create more accurate emission estimates to avoid potentially over-conservative regulatory measures;
• recycled non-fossil fuel resources, to improve our understanding of their hazards and support EU policies that aim to reduce pollution and promote sustainable growth; and
• the valuing of environmental impacts to assess the effectiveness and proportionality of chemicals regulation and specific regulatory actions under, for example, REACH and the Batteries Regulation.

Dr Sharon McGuinness, ECHA’s Executive Director, said: 
“Since ECHA’s first report in 2023, we have seen important, regulatory-relevant scientific research get underway. For example, new research has been initiated on developing analytical methods to detect and measure PFAS for use by enforcement authorities and on generating monitoring data on a specific phthalate that is a chemical of concern.   

“Our updated report reflects the European Commission’s Clean Industry Deal and Competitiveness Compass, by inviting more specific research to support the circular economy and innovation in Europe.”

Other research needs added to the report include developing better methods to monitor chemicals in water environments, such as rivers, lakes, and oceans, and how chemicals can contaminate drinking water from materials that come into contact with it.

Background
The Key Areas of Regulatory Challenge report is part of an evolving research and development agenda aiming to support and inspire the research community. The list of research needs is not exhaustive. The report reflects ECHA’s current priorities, including the Agency’s new tasks. It was originally developed to support the work under the Partnership for the assessment of risk from chemicals (PARC). 

PARC is a seven-year EU wide research and innovation programme under Horizon Europe which aims to advance research, share knowledge and improve skills in chemical regulatory risk assessment.

ECHA’s role in PARC is to ensure that the funded scientific research addresses current regulatory challenges related to chemical risk assessment and adds value to the EU’s regulatory processes.

Istanbul Apparel Exporters’ Association (İHKİB) and Bilişim Vadisi -Technology Development Zone (Informatics Valley) have signed a Cooperation Protocol to enhance the competitiveness of the Turkish apparel industry in global markets. Under this protocol, the parties will develop projects and work packages that add value to the sector, focusing primarily on twin transformation, sustainability, the circular economy, and design. 

Speaking at the signing ceremony, İHKİB Vice President Mustafa Paşahan noted that Türkiye is the world’s seventh-largest apparel supplier and the third-largest supplier to the European Union (EU). He stated that Türkiye accounts for 3.2% of global apparel exports, and continued: 

“We are a leading country in apparel production. Thanks to our high quality, rapid and flexible manufacturing capabilities, and geographical advantages, we stand out from our competitors. We already comply with European standards in areas such as recycling, carbon footprint reduction, digitalization, and social compliance. To further strengthen our position in global markets, we aim to build on these existing strengths and turn digital and green transformation into key opportunities. In this process, we are making effective use of EU funds through projects developed under the IPA (Instrument for Pre-accession Assistance). So far, we have secured €37 million in EU funding. In February, we successfully completed our METAMORPHOSIS project under IPA II, one of the key outcomes of which was the establishment of the Digital Transformation Center, which now serves the industry. Last month, we launched our MIDAS project, also with EU funding, to provide the necessary infrastructure for twin transformation among SMEs. Later this year, we will initiate our 'Carbon Footprint Tracking and Reduction' project, again supported by EU funds. With our new partnership with Bilişim Vadisi, we believe we will launch many innovative projects that will further enhance the global competitiveness of our fashion industry, especially in digitalization and green transformation.” 

ERKAM TUZGEN: CONNECTING STAKEHOLDERS WITHIN THE SAME ECOSYSTEM 
General Manager of Bilişim Vadisi Erkam Tüzgen also shared his thoughts: “Next-generation textile technologies are being driven not only by major players but also by creative startups. Through this program, we are bringing together young entrepreneurs, designers, and technology developers within a shared ecosystem. Bilişim Vadisi will continue to act as a catalyst at this intersection of technology and design.”

Under the protocol, the two parties will apply for national and international support programs focused on digitalization, green transformation, sustainability, the circular economy, and creative industries. They will jointly develop projects and work packages aligned with strategic goals in the technology and design sectors. By collaborating with their affiliates and stakeholders, they will form solution-oriented partnerships in digital transformation and design processes. They will also engage in joint efforts through structures such as digitalization and design clustering centers. Entrepreneurs based in Bilişim Vadisi will be given opportunities to grow through partnerships with İHKİB members.

The Portuguese Textile and Apparel Association (ATP) is promoting the national textile industry at Expo 2025 Osaka with the installation TEXTILE LIVE – Draping with Sustainable Materials, made in Portugal, featured in the Portugal Pavilion under the theme Ocean, The Blue Dialogue.

This international initiative celebrates innovation, environmental responsibility, and the heritage of the Portuguese textile and clothing industry, highlighting materials and processes developed in Portugal that respect ecosystems and place sustainability at the heart of creative practice.

From 12 to 15 June, the thousands of visitors of the Portuguese Pavilion everyday, namely the Multiuse Room (with doors opening directly onto the Expo grounds), will be able to watch and witness an unprecedented live work action by 15 young Japanese designers and one Portuguese designer, on textile materials made in Portugal based on the pillars of sustainability and environmental responsibility.

In collaboration with three Japanese fashion schools - Osaka Institute of Fashion, Marronnier College of Fashion Design and Kobe Bunka Fashion College - art, tradition and innovation, in the form of draping work on busts also made from sustainable materials, will show the world the creative potential of our most eco-friendly materials.

This live draping performance will take place twice a day, one in the morning and another in the afternoon. In addition, visitors will also be able to see a photo exhibition in which Portuguese textiles materials are “interpreted” through the beauty and talent of top Portuguese models from past generations. The experience is further enriched by a miniature doll’s installation, the Marias Paperdolls by Cláudia Oliveira and an informative video that explains the sustainable processes behind the materials on display

Altogether, these elements offer more than enough reason for high anticipation around the event, which aims to reaffirm the active role that Portugal’s textile and clothing industry is playing in positioning itself at the forefront of the Circular Economy.

Curated by Paulo Gomes, the installation highlights textile solutions made in Portugal with:

• Natural wool and linen, responsibly sourced and rooted in traditional craftsmanship.
• Bio-based artificial fibers, derived from food industry by-products.
• Recycled synthetic fibers, including polyester from PET bottle waste.
• Seaweed-based finishes, which reduce water consumption and create unique effects.
• Natural and eco-friendly dyes, with environmentally conscious processes.

The result is a living dialogue between tradition and innovation, Portugal and Japan — where textiles become a medium of artistic expression and a symbol of an industry in transformation.

ATP extends its gratitude to all those who made this installation possible — especially the Portuguese companies Albano Morgado, Burel Factory, Lemar, Positive Materials e Trimalhas; the curator Paulo Gomes; the designer Renato Luiz; and the 15 Japanese fashion students from the Osaka Institute of Fashion, Marronnier College of Fashion Design, and Kobe Bunka Fashion College and AICEP.

ATP further acknowledges the valuable contributions of Cláudia Oliveira (Marias Paperdolls); the volunteer interpreters Kazuha Toriyama and Ayu Adachi; photographer Sorin Opait; models Elsa Correia, Isabel Sousa, Milene Veiga, and Telma Santos; Rui Guimarães (graphic materials); Liliana Alves (video production); and the team from Saiunion Co., Ltd (mannequins), as well as the support of our sponsors, Aquitex and Mind.pt. With this action, ATP reinforces the positioning of the Portuguese Textile and Apparel Industry as a global benchmark in sustainable innovation, presenting itself to the world through art, design, and the matter that defines them: textiles made in Portugal – FOR A BETTER WOLRD.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber, yarn and fabrics to finished sewn products, issued the following statements from NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas and several U.S. textile executives in support of President Trump’s order closing de minimis for China, effective May 2.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas

“We are grateful to President Trump and his administration for closing the destructive de minimis loophole that has allowed unsafe and illegal Chinese goods—including goods made with forced labor—to flood the U.S. market duty-free and largely unchecked for years.

“This loophole, largely exploited by Chinese e-commerce giants and others to skirt U.S. tariffs, regulations and laws, has contributed to the closure of 28 textile mills in the past 22 months.

“The U.S. textile industry is a critical and strategic sector, supplying more than 8,000 products to the U.S. military, as well as industrial and commercial markets, while supporting local communities across country, and employing 471,000 workers nationwide.

“Today’s action by the administration is an important step forward to help rebalance the playing field for American manufacturers, preserve good-paying American manufacturing jobs, spur more investment and innovation in manufacturing facilities here at home, and close the backdoor to China once and for all.

“We urge the administration and Congress to move swiftly to end de minimis for commercial shipments from all countries to prevent circumvention and to make sure Made in China products cannot enter the United States through third countries. The U.S. textile industry stands ready to assist the administration as it continues its work to end the de minimis exemption and implement this critical provision.”

Anderson Warlick, Chairman and CEO of Parkdale Mills
“The de minimis loophole has impacted our businesses and our workforce significantly. Roughly half of de minimis shipments contain textile and apparel products which get an unfair competitive advantage at our expense. Illegal products like fentanyl and products made with Uyghur forced labor come into the United States under the de minimis exemption, causing economic damage and impacting the lives of many Americans.

“I am pleased to see President Trump take action to eliminate de minimis for products from China, and I encourage the administration to end de minimis for imports from all countries so we textile manufacturers can compete on a more level playing field.”

Amy Bircher Bruyn, CEO & Founder of MMI Textiles
“The de minimis loophole has wreaked havoc on the U.S. textile industry by enabling duty-free access for massive volumes of fast fashion imports, largely from China. This policy undermines American manufacturers who play a critical role in our national security and industrial resilience.

“At MMI Textiles, we employ 39 direct team members and support an additional 21 indirect workers — including a printer of camouflage patterns who operates exclusively within our NC facility, summer interns who represent the next generation of textile leaders, and specialized industry consultants. More broadly, through our robust contract manufacturing network, we directly support hundreds of jobs across the U.S. supply chain. Our company is a catalyst for employment and innovation in domestic textiles, producing essential components for U.S. military and law enforcement applications.

“The U.S. textile industry is vital to our nation’s industrial base. We supply the U.S. military, and during the COVID-19 pandemic, our industry pivoted rapidly to manufacture lifesaving PPE for frontline workers. Despite these contributions, the current de minimis threshold has created an unfair advantage for foreign competitors, particularly China, by allowing them to bypass duties and flood the market with underpriced goods — at the direct expense of American jobs.

“I am encouraged by President Trump’s commitment to ending de minimis eligibility for Chinese imports. I urge the administration to move swiftly to eliminate this loophole for all imports and restore a level playing field that protects U.S. manufacturing, jobs, and national security.”

Ron Sytz, CEO of Beverly Knits
“I am truly thankful to President Trump for closing the de minimis loophole for Chinese imports. This loophole has been devastating to my family’s 44-year-old textile manufacturing business in Gastonia, North Carolina, forcing us to lay off 175 workers and significantly reduce capacity in our plants. We can’t compete against subsidized imports from China that enter the U.S. duty free through the de minimis loophole. With the administration’s action, our company which provides hundreds of jobs and supports our community and the U.S. economy, will once again have a level playing field that will allow us to expand, invest and hire more associates here in the United States.”

The European Chemicals Agency brings forward a proposal for an EU-wide restriction on certain hexavalent chromium, Cr(VI), substances. The aim is to reduce the harmful effects of these carcinogenic chemicals for both workers and the public.

At the request of the European Commission, ECHA has assessed the risks posed by certain Cr(VI) substances to workers and the public as well as the socio-economic impacts of potential restrictions.

The Agency concluded that an EU-wide restriction is justified as Cr(VI) substances are among the most potent workplace carcinogens and pose a serious risk to workers’ health. People living near industrial sites that release these substances into the environment are also at risk of lung and intestinal cancers.

ECHA proposes to introduce a ban on Cr(VI) substances, except in the following use categories when they meet defined limits for worker exposure and environmental emissions:

1. Formulation of mixtures
2. Electroplating on plastic substrate
3. Electroplating on metal substrate
4. Use of primers and other slurries
5. Other surface treatment
6. Functional additives/process aids

Such a restriction could replace the current authorisation requirements under REACH, ensuring that the risks associated with Cr(VI) substances are effectively controlled once they are no longer subject to REACH authorisation. Additionally, barium chromate is included in the scope of the restriction to avoid regrettable substitution.

The restriction could prevent up to 17 tonnes of Cr(VI) from being released into the environment and avoid up to 195 cancer cases each year. Over 20 years, the total monetised benefits are estimated to be €331 million or €1.07 billion, depending on the restriction option chosen. The total cost to European society is estimated at either €314 million or €3.23 billion. These costs include investments in measures to reduce environmental releases and worker exposure, cost of closures and relocations, and replacing Cr(VI) substances with safer alternatives.

All stakeholders have the opportunity to provide information backed by robust evidence during a six-month consultation, which is expected to start on 18 June 2025. ECHA is planning to organise an online information session to explain the restriction process and help stakeholders take part in the consultation.

Next steps
ECHA’s scientific Committees for Risk Assessment and Socio-Economic Analysis will evaluate the restriction proposal. In their evaluation, they will consider the scientific evidence received during the consultations.
The European Commission, together with the 27 EU Member States, will take the decision on the restriction and its conditions – based on ECHA’s proposal and the committees’ opinion.

ECHA is the EU’s chemicals agency responsible for implementing EU chemical regulations.