From the Sector

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), in cooperation with the Hague-based UpRights Foundation, launches the GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities. This landmark publication is a crucial step forward in the promotion of sustainability, human rights and ethical business conduct in the textile sector.

Clear Guidance for GOTS Certified Entities Based on Recognised International Standards
The GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities is based on the recognised international frameworks, including the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector (2018) and the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights (UNGPs). The Handbook offers GOTS Certified Entities clear guidance on integrating due diligence processes into their operations, thereby helping them to comply with domestic due diligence laws such as the German Supply Chain Law, French Vigilance Law, and upcoming EU legislation.

A Comprehensive Blueprint
The GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities was developed as a structured roadmap, leading Certified Entities through the process of establishing and refining their management systems. The emphasis of the Handbook is on a holistic due diligence approach, ensuring that GOTS-certified companies not only identify but also proactively prevent and effectively mitigate potential adverse impacts on human rights and the environment. The Handbook ensures that GOTS Certified Entities are equipped with the knowledge and tools to respond to potential challenges, transforming them into leaders in responsible business conduct within the textile sector. The GOTS 7.0 criteria, bolstered by this Handbook, paves the way for a more sustainable and socially conscious business approach in the textile sector.

OECD Standards Assessment
GOTS is currently undergoing the OECD Alignment Assessment, a three-stage process that will result in a reputable, independent evaluation of the GOTS Criteria's alignment with the OECD's due diligence guidance documents. The process includes a Standards Assessment, an Implementation Assessment and a Credibility Assessment. As GOTS enters the Standard Assessment phase, it effectively showcases its dedication to sustainable practices, in line with the comprehensive international framework for responsible garment and footwear supply chain laid out in the OECD Due Diligence Guidance. This process, supported by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development, began in July 2023 and is expected to be completed in January 2024.

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) officially started the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) Alignment Assessment process for GOTS' version 7.0. This involvement illustrates GOTS' ongoing efforts to align with the international framework for responsible garment and footwear supply chain due diligence.

An Assessment for Greater Impact
The OECD Alignment Assessment is a three-stage process that includes a Standards Assessment, an Implementation Assessment as well as a Credibility Assessment. As GOTS enters the Standard Assessment phase, it effectively showcases its dedication to sustainable practices, in line with the OECD Due Diligence Guidance. This process, supported by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development, began in July 2023 and is expected to complete in January 2024.

The Role of the Due Diligence Criteria
The GOTS Due Diligence Criteria provide a framework for companies to proactively address potential or existing risks to human rights and the environment. This initiative lies at the core of GOTS' role as a trendsetter, paving the way for responsible business practices that will shape the future. Ruslan Alyamkin, Responsible for Standard Development and Implementation (Social Responsibility) at GOTS, emphasised the transformative power of these criteria: "The Due Diligence Criteria are not just guidelines, they are a powerful tool for real change. They empower companies to make informed and ethical decisions, helping to shape a textile industry that respects human rights and cares for our planet".

Emerging Regulatory Requirements: Navigating Human Rights and Environmental Due Diligence Obligations
As global legislation increasingly emphasises respect for human rights in business operations, GOTS remains a support tool for companies navigating this evolving landscape. Legislation such as Germany's Supply Chain Act (LkSG), France's Vigilance Act, Norway's Transparency Act, the Dutch Child Labour Due Diligence Act, and the UK Modern Slavery Act underscores the crucial need for rigorous due diligence in assessing business impacts on human rights and the environment. Moreover, the European Commission adopted a proposal for a Directive on corporate sustainability due diligence (CSDDD), which signals the imminent consideration of mandatory human rights and environmental due diligence.

With the recent version of GOTS Version 7.0, textile companies gain access to a six-step due diligence process, enabling them to identify, assess, and mitigate adverse impacts throughout their supply chains. This positions GOTS as a tool in showcasing compliance with due diligence obligations outlined in the draft EU CSDDD as well as in national laws.

Fashion for Good launches new pilot with brand partners adidas, Inditex, Target and Zalando, and footwear recycling innovator FastFeetGrinded to test and validate the innovative footwear recycling process to support the uptake of recycled content in footwear, driving the change towards a more circular footwear industry.

Globally, 24 billion shoes are added to the market each year*, and a staggering 90% of shoes are either landfilled or incinerated*. To tackle this challenge, Fashion for Good has launched a new pilot with partners adidas, Inditex, Target and Zalando, in collaboration with innovator FastFeetGrinded, aiming to test and validate the footwear recycling process and support the uptake of recycled materials in footwear. FastFeetGrinded possesses the unique capability to deconstruct any type of pre- and post-consumer shoe, breaking it down into its macro-components. These macro-components are then subsequently grinded down into smaller high purity granulates which FastFeetGrinded may use to create material streams for repurposed use.

Through this collaborative pilot, the partners will divert pre- and post-consumer footwear to FastFeetGrinded, who will transform them into various new material granulates. The next step involves FastFeetGrinded’s network of supply chain partners, who will produce output products, such as outsoles, midsoles, and flip flops. The brands will closely evaluate the products’ quality and purity, aiming to showcase the potential of FastFeetGrinded's footwear recycling technology and pave the way for scalable solutions.

*World Footwear Yearbook (2020). Footwear production with a new record of 24.3 billion pairs.
*Vivobarefoot. 22 billion pairs of shoes are dumped into landfill each year. It’s time for change.
*WRAP (2019) Valuing our Clothes.
*Material Innovation Initiative (2021). 2021 State of the Industry Report: Next-Gen Materials.

PrimaLoft Inc., a leader in advanced material technology, announced the reorganization of its European sales management team. Effective June 1st, Leonardo Loro has promoted to the position of Sales Leader, Europe. Additionally, the company welcomes Mario Vlietinck as the new Territory Manager for France, Benelux & Denmark.

To further streamline operations and maximize opportunities, PrimaLoft is also implementing a territory reorganization to better align existing sales talent with market opportunities. These moves will strengthen the company’s sales strategy in the region.

Leonardo Loro will lead the European sales team and report directly to Chris Humphris, SVP, Global Sales. "With over a decade of experience as the sales and marketing manager for the southern European market, including France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal, Leonardo has demonstrated exceptional skills in building customer relationships and identifying new business opportunities. His invaluable contributions to our sales efforts make him the ideal candidate to lead and elevate our business in Europe", said Humphris. In his new leadership role, Loro will continue to manage brands in Italy and Spain, as well as military sales efforts in Europe.

Mario Vlietinck joins the PrimaLoft team and will be responsible for managing and developing business relationships with PrimaLoft brand partners in France, Benelux & Denmark. Vlietinck brings a wealth of knowledge in sales and the outdoor industry, previously serving as the head of Apparel & Footwear for Katoen Natie, as well as working for brands such as Reebok, Merrell, and Vannese. "Mario’s background in product development, business development, and international sales positions him as a great asset to our company goals,” said Humphris. Vlietinck will report to Leonardo Loro.

Sales Territory Reorganization
Wim Neels, VP of business development for fashion and lifestyle, will be responsible for all Fashion & Lifestyle brands across Europe, with the exception of Italy & Spain, which remain the responsibility of Leonardo Loro.

Bartosz Lassak will expand his territory responsibility to include outdoor performance brands in the United Kingdom, in addition to Eastern Europe and Turkey. He will also handle any opportunities from North Africa, as well as any brands located outside of other European coverage.

Valerie Raths Goesel will oversee the management of all outdoor performance brands in the Germany, Austria, and Switzerland region.

Mats Jengard will remain the territory manager for Scandinavia (Norway, Sweden, Finland & Iceland), focusing outdoor performance brands.

From March 15-16, 2023, the spring edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS kicked off on the fairgrounds of Messe München. With around 2,685 visitors, the event organizers were particularly pleased with numbers up on the previous winter fair. High attendances were also evident at the Expert Talks on both days, which provided information on the latest color and fabric trends, news on developments in sustainability and new technologies from fiber manufacturers. The focal points of the show were marked by the PERFORMANCE FORUM, which showcased the fabric highlights for the spring/summer 2025 season as well as the two PERFORMANCE AWARD and ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD winners.

After the kick-off event in Munich in March, the industry now looks forward to the follow-up fairs in Portland from April 4-5, 2023 and in Shanghai, April 10-11, 2023.

New concept starting October 2023: Premiere for highlighted focus on footwear
As part of the upcoming PERFORMANCE DAYS, which will once again take place at the Messe München exhibition center on October 4-5, 2023, the event organizers will no longer focus explicitly on sustainable functional textiles and accessories, but will also focus on the footwear market.

To support the integration of the footwear market into the trade fair events in Munich, Portland, New York and Shanghai, the organizers have brought on board two industry specialists, Nina Conrad and Rucky Zambrano.

Nina Conrad has been active as a sustainability consultant in the textile and leather industry for many years, specializing in traceable and local supply chains. Her core business is the production of leather and leather goods derived from animals raised on certified organic farms. She is also a founding partner of the Sustainable Leather Foundation and co-founder of the Fibershed subsiduary DACH.

Rucky Zambrano is a industrial designer and expert. When he got to know Vibram in 1992, he shifted his career to footwear for reasons of passion. For 13 years now, Zambrana and Vibram have been a driving force in the footwear market and made the leap from performance to fashion, as witnessed with the Merrell Chameleon, the Prada Luna Rossa boat shoe sole or the latest Vibram FiveFingers models. He is currently responsible for footwear for the Finnish children’s outdoor brand Reima.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) commends the Senate for passing the Fiscal Year 2023 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA), which includes a key provision aimed at spurring more government procurement of domestically produced essential products, providing a significant benefit to the U.S. textile industry.

“We applaud the Senate for getting the NDAA across the finish line today, and we are pleased the legislation will now go to President Biden for his signature,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “The underlying NDAA conference report includes a critical bill known as the Homeland Procurement Reform (HOPR) Act, which establishes specific criteria that the Department of Homeland Security (DHS) must meet to procure more domestically manufactured uniforms, footwear, and related critical items by DHS agencies.”

“NCTO sincerely thanks the Warrior Protection and Readiness Coalition (WPRC) and the coalition of industry and labor groups who helped secure inclusion of the HOPR Act in the NDAA,” Glas said. “This common-sense bill will ensure that key divisions of the DHS can procure American-made critical uniforms and protective equipment to support the execution and enforcement of their missions.”

Glas added, “The importance of the domestic textile industry and a warm industrial base was heightened during the pandemic when the industry pivoted overnight to retool production lines to address severe shortages of lifesaving products. That experience demonstrated how imperative it is to build and expand a permanent domestic manufacturing base for our country’s health and national security. The HOPR Act is poised to provide a greatly needed demand signal to the U.S. manufacturing industry for expanded government procurement of American-made essential items, ranging from uniforms to footwear and body armor and helmets. It is a step in the right direction to further safeguard our national security from unreliable foreign supply chains in China and other countries for essential materials.”

Once signed into law, the new HOPR provisions will go into effect in 180 days.

The Supervisory Board of adidas AG resolved upon the succession for adidas CEO Kasper Rorsted. Effective January 1, 2023, Bjørn Gulden is appointed as member of the Executive Board and CEO of adidas AG. Kasper Rorsted and the Supervisory Board mutually agreed that he will step down as CEO and leave the company upon expiry of November 11, 2022. Harm Ohlmeyer, Chief Financial Officer of adidas AG, will lead the company in the interim until December 31, 2022. The Supervisory Board had announced a CEO transition on August 22, 2022.

Bjørn Gulden is 57 years old, Norwegian and has been CEO of Puma SE since 2013. Bjørn Gulden looks back at a tenure at adidas as, amongst others, Senior Vice President of Apparel and Accessories from 1992 to 1999. Additionally, he was CEO of Danish jewelry brand Pandora, Managing Director of footwear retailer Deichmann, President of Rack Room Shoes, and held various management positions at outdoor apparel company Helly Hansen. He also holds the position of Chairman of the Board of Salling Group, Denmark’s largest food retailer.

“We are very pleased to welcome Bjørn Gulden back at adidas. Bjørn Gulden brings almost 30 years of experience in the sporting goods and footwear industry. As a result, he knows the industry extremely well and draws on a rich network in sport and retail. Bjørn Gulden already served adidas successfully for seven years in the 1990s. As CEO of Puma, he re-invigorated the brand and led the company to record results. The Supervisory Board of adidas AG is convinced that Bjørn Gulden will head adidas into a new era of strength and is looking very much forward to a successful cooperation,” said Thomas Rabe, Chairman of the Supervisory Board of adidas AG. 

A Selection of Footwear and Apparel Designed to Raise Awareness and Funding for Breast Cancer Now and National Breast Cancer Foundation, Inc.

• In partnership with the charities Breast Cancer Now (UK/Europe) and National Breast Cancer Foundation (US), the Collection brings together a range of products for running, hiking and mountain biking
• £15/€15/$15 from each full-price sale will be donated to BCN (for purchases in the UK and EU) or NBCF (for purchases in the North America)
• The Collection feature illustrations by adidas pro mountain biker Veronique Sandler, empathetically designed to represent the comfort that those with breast cancer have experienced in the outdoors

Inspired by the experiences of people and communities around the world, including its own employees and athletes, adidas is launching the Breast Cancer Awareness Collection this October.
Available throughout Breast Cancer Awareness Month, the adidas Breast Cancer Awareness Collection sees adidas partnering with Breast Cancer Now in the UK and Europe, and National Breast Cancer Foundation, Inc. in the US, to help raise awareness of breast cancer and support the vital work both charities do.

The products in the Breast Cancer Awareness Collection have been chosen to help everyone, regardless of physical ability or condition, spend more time in the outdoors.
The collection’s focus on functional footwear and apparel that is designed for the outdoors is in keeping with adidas' objective to help broaden access to outdoor sports and help everyone enjoy the benefits of spending time in nature. With United by Summits, adidas TERREX is taking this brand-wise ethos further by encouraging all people, from every background, to realise their own individual goals in the outdoors and enjoy the benefits of adventure, both big and small.

The collection is available for purchase in limited quantities from September 30, 2022 until the end of October 2022 for adiClub members only, and £15/€15/$15 from each full-price sale of the adidas Breast Cancer Awareness Collection will be donated to Breast Cancer Now (for purchases in the UK and EU) or National Breast Cancer Foundation, Inc. (for purchases in North America). The money raised will contribute to the important work these charities are doing.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will be presenting Evolon® eco-friendly microfiber reinforcement material for leather goods that is manufactured in Europe with no solvent and no chemical binder at the Lineapelle international trade show for the leather industry. Another sustainability highlight is binder-free strobel material made from 100% recycled PET for the shoe industry. The company will also be showing a nonwoven crimping material that meets the increasing demands of manufacturers and consumers alike in the footwear market.

Evolon® contains 80% recycled PET. It is produced at Freudenberg’s facility in Colmar, France, where the manufacturing process is highly sustainable: it is certified to STeP by OEKO-TEX® and fully complies with the DETOX TO ZERO by OEKO-TEX® criteria. In addition, shorter transport routes help to secure supply chains for players in the European leather goods industry.

The binder-free strobel material is made from 100% recycled PET. It is GRS-certified for reliable traceability. The GRS certification recognizes the share of recycled materials in the strobel material. This allows customers to calculate the total amount of recycled material in shoes. Moreover, the mono-component material itself is fully recyclable. In terms of performance, the material is lightweight and also demonstrates a high tensile strength.

Made from nonwoven fabric, the innovative crimping material optimally combines high permanent moldability and shape retention with flexibility and suppleness. This crimping material enables manufacturers to reduce their production costs, while consumers benefit from increased comfort. Compared to conventional knitted fabric-based crimping materials, the nonwoven crimping material offers multi-directional stretching properties, improved fitting, greater design freedom and reduced weight.

The world’s largest fashion brands and retailers must increase transparency to tackle the climate crisis and social inequality, according to the latest Fashion Transparency Index.

The seventh edition of the Fashion Transparency Index ranks 250 of the world’s largest fashion brands and retailers based on their public disclosure of human rights and environmental policies, practices, and impacts, across their operations and supply chains.

• Brands achieved an average score of just 24%, with nearly a third of brands scoring less than 10%
• The majority of brands (85%) do not disclose their annual production volumes despite mounting evidence of clothing waste around the world
• Most major brands and retailers (96%) do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage

The Index reveals insights into the most pressing issues facing the fashion industry, like:

• As new and proposed legislation focuses on greenwashing claims, almost half of major brands (45%) publish targets on sustainable materials yet only 37% provide information on what constitutes a sustainable material.
• Only 24% of major brands disclose how they minimise the impacts of microfibres despite textiles being the largest source of microplastics in the ocean.
• The vast majority of major brands and retailers (94%) do not disclose the number of workers in their supply chains who are paying recruitment fees. This paints an unclear picture of the risks of forced labour as workers may be getting into crippling debt to accept jobs paying poverty wages.
• While many brands use their channels to talk about social justice, they need to go beyond lip service. Just 8% of brands publish their actions on racial and ethnic equality in their supply chains.

Despite these results, Fashion Revolution is encouraged by increasing supply chain transparency among many major brands, primarily with first-tier manufacturers where the final stage of production occurs, e.g. cutting, sewing, finishing and packing. Nine brands have disclosed their first-tier manufacturers for the first time this year. It is encouraging to see significant progress across market segments including luxury, sportswear, footwear and accessories and across different geographies.

Fashion Revolution’s co-founder and Global Operations Director Carry Somers says: “In 2016, only 5 out of 40 major brands (12.5%) disclosed their suppliers. Seven years later, 121 out of 250 major brands (48%) disclose their suppliers. This clearly demonstrates how the Index incentivises transparency but it also shows that brands really are listening to the millions of people around the world who keep asking them #WhoMadeMyClothes? Our power is in our persistence.”

More key findings from the Fashion Transparency Index 2022:

Progress on transparency in the global fashion industry is still too slow among 250 of the world’s largest fashion brands and retailers, with brands achieving an overall average score of just 24%, up 1% from last year
For another year, the initiative has seen major brands and retailers publicly disclose the most information about their policies, commitments and processes on human rights and environmental topics and significantly less about the results, outcomes and impacts of their efforts.

Most (85%) major brands still do not disclose their annual production volumes despite mounting evidence of overproduction and clothing waste
Thousands of tonnes of clothing waste are found globally. However, brands have disclosed more information about the circular solutions they are developing (28%) than on the actual volumes of pre- (10%) and post-production waste they produce (8%). Brands have sat by as waste importing countries foot the bill, resulting in serious human rights and environmental implications.

Just 11% of brands publish a responsible purchasing code of conduct indicating that most are still reluctant to disclose how their purchasing practices could be affecting suppliers and workers
Greater transparency on how brands interact with their suppliers ought to be a first step towards eliminating harmful practices and promoting fair purchasing practices. The poor performance on transparency in this vital area is a missed opportunity for brands to demonstrate they are serious about addressing the root causes of harmful working conditions, including the instances where they themselves are the key driver.

Despite the urgency of the climate crisis, less than a third of major brands disclose a decarbonisation target covering their entire supply chain which is verified by the Science-Based Targets Initiative
Many brands and retailers rely heavily on garment producing countries that are vulnerable to the impacts of the climate crisis, yet our research shows that only 29% of major brands and retailers publish a decarbonisation target covering their operations and supply chain which is verified by the Science Based Targets Initiative.

Only 11% of brands publish their supplier wastewater test results, despite the textile industry being a leading contributor to water pollution
The fashion industry is a major contributor to water pollution and one of the most water intensive industries on the planet. Only 11% of major brands publish their wastewater test result, and only 25% of brands disclose the process of conducting water-related risk assessments in their supply chain. Transparency on wastewater test results is key to ensuring that brands are held accountable for their potentially devastating impacts on local biodiversity, garment workers and their communities.

Most major brands and retailers (96%) do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage nor do they disclose if they isolate labour costs
Insufficient progress is being made by most brands towards ensuring that the workers in their supply chain are paid enough to cover their basic needs and put aside some discretionary income. Just 27% of brands disclose their approach to achieving living wages for supply chain workers and 96% do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage. In response, we have joined forces with allies across civil society to launch Good Clothes, Fair Pay. The campaign demands groundbreaking living wage legislation across the garment, textile and footwear sector.