From the Sector

• There is an urban legend that hemp canvas was used to make the very first pair of Levi’s jeans.
• While this is a myth that originated in the counterculture of the 1960s, hemp is without doubt the fibre of the moment for the denim industry.

At the second Kingpins24 virtual denim show that was broadcast from New York on June 23rd and 24th, the sustainable benefits of hemp fibre were referenced by many Monforts customers who are now including it in their collections, including AGI Denim, Artistic Milliners, Black Peony, Calik, Cone Denim, Naveena Denim Mills (NDM) and Orta.

“Hemp is an easy to grow fibre which requires no irrigation, no fertilizers, no herbicides and no chemicals,” says Allan Little, Director of Product Development for Cone Denim, which has recently launched its Sweet Leaf collection featuring the fibre. “Significantly, it also uses fifty per cent or even less water than cotton in cultivation.”

It can also bring some new aesthetics to denim too, he adds.

“Hemp has a unique colour and adds a different cast to our indigo, the drape and texture of the fabrics is different and it even adds  a bit of a unique hand, so combined with its sustainable credentials we are proud to be bringing the Sweet Leaf collection to the market.”

US supply chain

Cone is currently sourcing its hemp from France, but with much of its manufacturing now in Mexico – and with the introduction of the US Farm Bill in 2018 which has legalised the growing of legal hemp – is exploring the possibility of investing in the US supply chain.

“With US hemp we’re really at the R&D phase,” Little emphasises. “It’s a unique crop, so coming up with the right stalk to provide the right fibre is challenging. We’ve experimented with different types of seed and various methods of decortication.”

Decortication, he explains, is the mechanical removal of the outside layer of the hemp stalk to useable fibre on the inside. A second process, cottonization, is necessary to make the fibre suitable for spinning, because compared to cotton, hemp is longer, stiffer, and less flexible.

100% success

At the end of 2019, Naveena (NDM), headquartered in Karachi, introduced fabrics featuring up to 51% hemp content in blends with Tencel and recycled polyester and this year has developed the first 100% hemp denims.

“The response to the fabrics we showed last year was incredible and we were looking forward to the response to this latest development – which everyone was asking for – at the Kingpins show in Amsterdam, which unfortunately was unable to go ahead,” says NDM’s Director of Marketing Rashid Iqbal. “We produced initial samples in an undyed state because we were not sure how the wet spun yarn would react in the dyeing, but I’m happy to say we have had success in this respect and are now able to provide one hundred per cent indigo dyed hemp denim.”

Environmental benefits

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim industry and we have assisted our customers with trials and optimised processing parameters for a range of different fibres, including hemp, both at our Advanced Technology Centre in Germany and at their own mills around the world,” says Hans Wroblowski, Monforts Head of Denim. “Given the environmental benefits of hemp, and the liberalisation of its cultivation in many parts of the world, the interest in it now comes as no surprise. We have the technologies and know-how to help our customers to fully maximise their hemp denims at all post-weaving stages of production.”

Monforts has a dominant position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Montex stenters. It has been enjoying further recent success with its Eco Line concept based on two key technology advances – the Eco Applicator and the Thermo Stretch.

The latest Monforts innovation for denim is the CYD yarn dyeing system. This technology is based on the effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing.

The CYD system also integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. A full CYD line is now available for trials at the company’s Advanced Technology Centre.

• Industrial yarn: Capacity expansion in the high-end sector

Remscheid – the Chinese industrial yarn manufacturer Zhejiang Kingsway High-Tech Fiber Co., Ltd. is expanding its production capacities by a further 40,000 tons per annum with 5 Oerlikon Barmag lines. Kingsway is already successfully manufacturing special high-quality yarns, exclusively deploying Oerlikon Barmag industrial yarn systems.

The 21 new spinning positions will be used to manufacture a broad product range: in addition to super-low-shrinkage (SLS) and high-tenacity (HT) yarn, the business also plans to produce automotive yarns for seat belts and airbags. This flexibility is made possible as a result of the Oerlikon Barmag systems’ configuration. The new systems are expected to commence manufacturing next year.

Industrial yarns for greater safety

As a quality-conscious industrial yarn producer, Kingsway has been manufacturing its sophisticated, high-end yarns on Oerlikon Barmag filament yarn systems since 2015. Alex Yang Yu Long, CEO of Kingsway, is proud of relying on engineering artistry from Remscheid: “As expected, the yarns are first-class in terms of quality. Our products are used in safety equipment, sometimes in situations where lives depend on them. Therefore, there can be no compromises. To this end, we select our partners with the utmost care."

• RUDOLF GROUP is thrilled to unveil the perfected antiviral features embedded in RUCO®-BAC AGP, the Company’s flagship antimicrobial product for textile applications.

As a consequence of COVID-19 global pandemic the demand for chemical auxiliaries with antimicrobial effect has boomed. RUDOLF GROUP invested important resources in the meticulous assessment of a new antiviral feature which is now added to one of their leading technologies .

Such an effort returned the surprisingly fast and most comprehensive antibacterial and antiviral textile finishing on the market: RUCO®-BAC AGP.

History has led to great vision and innovation

The powerful antimicrobial effectiveness of RUCO®-BAC AGP is rooted in the extraordinary properties of silver, whose antimicrobial magic is lost in the mists of time. Already known by the ancient Romans, Greeks and Egyptians, water and milk were preserved by using silver coins through the early modern age.

R&D at RUDOLF GROUP has mounted silver on highly sophisticated, functional and registered microstructures that strengthen and amplify the qualities of this noble metal.

RUDOLF’s proprietary microstructures are the responsible hidden secret and key technical breakthrough behind both efficacy and durability of RUCO®-BAC AGP. This innovation is now the preferred solution to help reducing proliferation and cross-contamination of bacteria and enveloped-virus on textiles.

One gram of microstructures has the astonishing superficial area of about 60 m². The advantage of a much higher surface is that the consumption of resources and dosages can be minimized by the factor 100 and that makes RUCO®-BAC AGP a highly conscious choice.

“Due to the microstructures, a virtually infinite protective shield is created in the textile from which highly effective positive silver ions are set free in small, exactly dosed quantities” says Dr. Dirk Sielemann, R&D Director at Rudolf Group.

Taking performance to the next level

RUCO-BAC AGP effectively protects any textile against bacteria (harmful and odour-causing) and its superior antiviral performance on textiles has been independently demonstrated by applying the most modern testing methods. Assessments were carried out on enveloped Coronaviridae families known to cause a broad spectrum of animal and human diseases.

The microstructures in RUCO®-BAC AGP trigger their powerful antibacterial and antiviral effects based on 3 distinctive inhibiting mechanisms:
1.    Blocking of oxygen-transporting enzymes therefore leading to impaired growth;
2.    Crushing of disulfide bonds and therefore structure of sulphur-containing proteins.
3.    Possible interference with Bacteria and virus surface protein in the membrane.

RUCO®-BAC AGP is intended for the protection of the treated textiles and the microstructures of RUCO®-BAC AGP were studied thinking of performance and safety. It is suitable for next-to-skin applications and cytotoxicity tests show that RUCO®-BAC AGP has no influence on the natural microflora of the skin. Furthermore, because of the adhesion mechanism of its microstructures, RUCO®-BAC AGP is only active in/on the textile and it is non-migrating. 

“This year 202o is being highly emotional and it’s leading to the widespread introduction of antimicrobials on textile and to a myriad of vague, misleading or unsubstantiated marketing claims”, states Dr. Gunther Duschek, Managing Director at RUDOLF GROUP. He concludes “As a highly responsible company, we move cautiously and stand for technologies and practices that are effective, truthful and limit the exposure of apparel manufacturers, retailers and buyers to any risk”.

• "Even closer to our customers"

After more than eight years in the Intercontinental Business Center on Yutong Road in Shanghai, China, the Manmade Fibers segment has now opened a new sales and service office in the metropolis of millions near the international airport in Hongqiao and the National Exhibition and Convention Center (NECC).

The Manmade Fibers segment in China now officially operates under the following address:

Oerlikon (China) Technology Co. Ltd.
Shanghai Branch
RM1208-1210, Tower A, The Place,
100 Zunyi Road, Changning District
Shanghai China 200051

The main reason for the change from Yutong Road to the new address on Zunyi Road was the logistical aspects in a city that has had to cope with increasingly heavy traffic in recent years. "Now we are even closer to our customers," explains Wang Jun, Oerlikon China President. The proximity to Hongqiao airport and the Hongqiao railway station with its high-speed trains will provide the sales and service staff with even better infrastructure connections.

Furthermore, the local repositioning also takes into account the changes within the Oerlikon Group. "The divestments made within the Oerlikon Group in recent years have now led to a reorganization here in Shanghai. Today, Oerlikon's business activities in China focus exclusively on the segments Manmade Fibers and Surface Solutions incl. Additive Manufacturing. The time had come to set up the best possible infrastructure for optimum customer service for both business segments," continues Wang Jun. In addition, in the age of digitalization, sales and service employees in China are increasingly able to work from home. All of this has now led to a changed, adapted and, last but not least, cost-optimized reorganization.

Shanghai – Sateri has unveiled FinexTM as its new product brand for recycled fibre. FinexTM, short for ‘Fibre Next’, is an innovative next-generation cellulosic fibre containing recycled content. Internationally known outdoor brand Lafuma has produced FinexTM apparel ahead of 618, China’s major mid-year online shopping festival, while independent China designer Rico Lee will launch his FinexTM apparel next month.

Since its announcement in March this year of a breakthrough in commercial production of viscose using recycled textile waste, Sateri has worked closely with its downstream yarn and garment manufacturing partners to bring the recycled fibre product to the consumer market.

“We’re pleased to collaborate with Sateri as one of their first brand partners for FinexTM. Sateri’s dedication to this partnership made it possible for Lafuma to produce T-shirts with this fine quality fibre in a short time. T-shirts made with FinexTM will be among the offerings Lafuma has in store for the 618 festival as we look to support environmentally-friendly and excellent performance solutions to strengthen our position as a leading outdoor apparel brand,” said Wu Qian, General Manager of Lafuma China.

Echoing similar sentiments is Rico Lee who established his own independent label in 2014, “I jumped at the opportunity to collaborate with Sateri when they approached me because FinexTM encapsulates what my brand stands for – Beautiful Technology that combines function and fashion.”

Tom Liu, Sateri’s Commercial Vice President said, “Like our flagship brand EcoCosy®, FinexTM is made from bio-based natural fibres. Innovation and technology has made cellulosic textile fibre recycling possible and FinexTM represents how nature not only renews itself but that products made from nature can also be regenerated. This, at its heart, is what circular fashion looks like. Our brand promise to customers remains constant– Sateri’s products are sustainable, high quality, efficient, and cost-effective. The FinexTM tagline ‘Together For A Better Next’ expresses our aspiration to be the partner of choice for next-generation fibre - we thank Lafuma and Rico Lee for pioneering with us on this quest.”

Last month, Sateri announced its entry into China’s Lyocell fibre market. The recent string of product portfolio expansion announcements is underpinned by Sateri’s business strategy to capture value. Allen Zhang, President of Sateri said, “Being the world’s largest viscose producer gives us the advantages that come with volume, but value is what we hope differentiates us. By this, we don’t only mean higher value products like Lyocell or FinexTM but also the value we bring to communities, country, climate and customers.”

Globally, less than 1% of material used to produce clothing is recycled into new clothing. This presents a big opportunity for textile fibre recycling, particularly in China which is the largest textile producing country in the world. Last month, Sateri became a council member of the China Association of Circular Economy (CACE). The company will work closely with CACE’s Textile Waste Comprehensive Utilisation Committee to establish standards and promote industrial-scale textile waste recycling. Sateri is part of the Singapore-based RGE group of companies which has committed USD200 million into next-generation textile fibre innovation and technology.

• Digital processes also speed up the manufacture of meltblown systems

in order to further optimize the material provision for the Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven business units and to strengthen internal processes at the German site in Neumünster, the Manmade Fibers segment of the Swiss Oerlikon Group decided last year to invest in a state-of-the-art logistics center with a new lift center. It has already been fully operational for a few weeks. This is tremendously helpful for speeding up the processing of the numerous orders for meltblown systems for manufacturing high-quality nonwovens for protective masks and apparel that Oerlikon Nonwoven has received over the past months alone

Investing in a new Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven logistics center is paying dividends: the processing speed when manufacturing new systems – very much to the benefit of customers – considerably improved in the first week after the center started operating, not least as a result of the optimized processes and the material handling. After 25 years, the time had finally come to break new ground and to better equip ourselves for the future requirements of the markets. The paternoster storage facility to date not only needed to have regular repairs carried out due to its age, it was also too small for the projects increasingly being carried out today. The only 90 m² were capable of storing around 12,000 parts. In contrast, the new logistics center now offers more than 250 m² of storage space for in excess of 25,000 parts. As a result, this now also houses all small parts, which used to be stored in the high-rack facility due to lack of space.

New hardware, new software
Coinciding with the opening of the new logistics center, Oerlikon also introduced new digital processes that will also help cope with the increasing production volumes. To this end, consistently maintained master data and photos for all parts ensure safe, paper-free storage and handling of the material from now on. In order to minimize mistakes, a laser pointer now indicates from which or to which space the goods are moved. Furthermore, a photo of the material, sorted to type, is displayed on the screen. The digitalization of the warehousing facilities secures the pick and put-away process so that checking material numbers becomes superfluous when removing items from the warehouse.

• Since the end of March 2020, COVID-19 has led to very low demand in all Business Groups
• Comprehensive crisis management implemented
• Loss in the mid double-digit million range expected in the first half of 2020
• Plans to introduce short-time working to adjust capacity in Switzerland and Germany
• Strategy will continue to be implemented

Due to COVID-19, a large number of spinning mills have stopped production worldwide. Since the end of March 2020, this has led to low demand for spare parts and wear & tear parts and delays in testing programs during the development of new machines. Customers are postponing investment projects or unable to implement them due to restrictions imposed by national governments. This results in low demand for new machines.

Comprehensive crisis management
Rieter has implemented comprehensive crisis management. Priorities are being given to protecting employees, fulfilling customer commitments and ensuring liquidity. The necessary measures to protect employees have been implemented worldwide.
The order backlog of well in excess of CHF 500 million is being processed largely according to plan, despite the existing bottlenecks in the supply chains. Less than 5% of the orders in the order backlog have been canceled.
Rieter has already implemented measures to ensure liquidity and reduce costs. The company has good net liquidity and undrawn credit lines in the mid three-digit million range.
Loss expected in the first half of 2020
As already reported, Rieter expects sales and earnings in the first half of 2020 to be significantly below the prior year level.

Loss expected in the first half of 2020
As already reported, Rieter expects sales and earnings in the first half of 2020 to be significantly below the prior year level. The effects of COVID-19 will place an additional burden on the first half of 2020. Rieter therefore expects sales in the first half of 2020 to be less than CHF 300 million. Despite the countermeasures implemented at the net profit level, this will lead to a loss in the mid double-digit million range.

Plans to introduce short-time working to adjust capacity
Rieter plans to apply for short-time working for the areas with forecasted low capacity utilization at the locations in Switzerland and Germany. The application will be for 40% short-time working in the third quarter of 2020. Talks with staff representatives will begin next week.
As a sign of solidarity, Rieter’s Board of Directors, Group Executive Committee and the senior management will waive 10%-20% of their salaries temporarily.

Implementation of the strategy
In recent years, Rieter has consistently implemented the strategy based on innovation leadership, strengthening the business in components, spare parts and services and the adjustment of cost structures. The company intends to forge ahead with the implementation of the strategy in the coming months, thus strengthening its market position for the time after the COVID-19 pandemic.
The next information on the course of business is planned with the publication of the half-year results on July 16, 2020
 

• Producing fabric for medical gowns: Advanced barrier effect solutions support COVID-19 efforts

Huntsman Textile Effects and Bao Minh Textile, one of the largest and most modern woven fabric producers in Vietnam, are collaborating to produce fabric that meets the stringent performance standards required of isolation gowns. High-quality medical gowns are essential protective wear for healthcare workers combatting the global COVID-19 pandemic, but these are in short supply worldwide.

Bao Minh Textile will initially treat 760,000 meters of woven fabric with a carefully curated combination of Huntsman Textile Effects barrier effect solutions and auxiliaries. This fabric is sufficient to produce 345,000 high-grade isolation gowns.

Bao Minh Textile’s isolation gown fabric relies on a range of Huntsman pretreatment, dyeing and finishing solutions. These include CLARITE® ONE, an all-in-one pretreatment for peroxide bleaching; NOVACRON® and TERASIL® dyes; PHOBOL® CP-C, an excellent oil-, water- and stain-repellent finish; and PHOBOTEX® RSY, a non-fluorinated durable water repellent with extremely high washing resistance. PHOBOL® EXTENDER XAN is also applied to further increase wash durability.

The two brands have been working together to develop unique concepts for FW2019 and SS2020 collection, starting from premium ISKO™ denim.

Each garment is sartorially and carefully thought out to result in a beautiful product that is respectful of people and the planet.Excellence is in the detail and DW knows it well. The Italian brand always focused on quality standards and craftmanship to develope its collections.
From fabrics to stitching to accessories, every small element is carefully envisioned and developed to create garments are safe for the planet and its people. With cutting-edge technologies and forefront treatments being part of the process, the partnership with ISKO, one of the leading denim ingredient brands, came naturally – the next step forward in a journey toward distinction.

Being the first mill in the world to be awarded both Nordic Swan Ecolabel and EU Ecolabel, the company provided responsible solutions to better define DW’s vision. Combined with the brand’s tradition and expertise, the fabrics developed by ISKO the denim pieces are unite responsibility and quality, according to the mill’s Responsible Innovation™ approach.
The result is the five pockets Milano model and the American pocket Enea pant, both available in different washes and colors.

No significant impact yet from Covid-19 pandemic in the first quarter 2020:

• Group sales revenues at 247 million euros approximately 15 percent below prior year’s level, but slightly above the guidance corridor (220 to 240 million euros) as published in March 2020
• Decline in Group sales due to changes in the lithium-ion battery supply chain in the business unit Graphite Materials & Systems (GMS) as well as restructuring-driven lower sales in Textile Fibers in the business unit Composites – Fibers & Materials (CFM)
• Group recurring EBIT approximately 50 percent below prior year level at 9 million euros and at the upper end of the guidance corridor (mid to high single-digit million euros amount)
• Due to timely implemented measures and in contrast to the usual seasonal pattern, liquidity of approximately 150 million euros as of March 31, 2020 developed very favorably compared to year-end 2019 (137 million euros)
• Dr. Michael Majerus, Spokesman of the Board of Management of SGL Carbon: “We acted decisively and took various measures at an early stage, both to ensure the safety of our employees and to mitigate the economic impact of the pandemic.”
• Guidance for the full year 2020 remains suspended due to the impacts of the Covid-19 pandemic; decline in Group sales revenue and negative Group recurring EBIT expected for the second quarter 2020

In the first quarter 2020, SGL Carbon has not yet been significantly impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic and reached sales revenues slightly above the guidance corridor of 220 to 240 million euros published on March 12, 2020. In total, Group sales at 247 million euros was approximately 15 percent below the prior year level. The development is primarily attributable to changes in the lithium-ion battery supply chain in the business unit Graphite Materials & Systems (GMS) as well as to restructuring-driven lower sales in Textile Fibers in the business unit Composites – Fibers & Materials (CFM). As planned, Group recurring EBIT decreased by approximately 50 percent to 9 million euros and thus reached the upper end of the guidance corridor of a mid to high single-digit million euros amount.

As the global measures taken to contain the pandemic led to disruptions in production and supply chains in April and early May 2020, a significant double-digit percentage decrease in Group sales revenue and a negative Group recurring EBIT are expected for the second quarter 2020.  

SGL Carbon implemented various measures to counter the economic impact of the pandemic at an early stage. For this reason, liquidity developed very favorably compared to year-end 2019 and in contrast to the usual seasonal pattern and improved from 137 million to approximately 150 million euros.