From the Sector

A much more sustainable, cost effective and very flexible process for manufacturing critical fibres based on ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) is being launched by the UK’s Fibre Extrusion Technologies (FET).

UHMWPE is prized in many industries due to its extraordinary properties. The fibre is, for example, ten times stronger than steel by weight, while exhibiting outstanding abrasion resistance, low friction and high impact strength. UHMWPE fibres are also chemically inert, resistant to most chemicals and UV light and do not absorb water. They maintain performance in a wide range of temperatures and despite their toughness are extremely lightweight.

As a result, they are unbeatable in demanding applications such as high-performance ropes in maritime industrial and rescue applications. In addition, they are invaluable in ballistic protection, cut-resistant clothing and high-performance sports gear – and increasingly in medical implants.

Biomedical market
“FET has supplied many extrusion systems to the biomedical market, most notably for the production of both resorbable and non-absorbable sutures,” says FET Managing Director Richard Slack. “In exploring what else we could do in assisting these customers, it became clear that there was a need for smaller quantities of UHMWPE fibres in bespoke sizes.”

“The current systems for manufacturing UHMWPE filament yarns are on a huge scale, with very complex processing routes,” adds Research and Development Manager Jonny Hunter. “This means the supply chain is currently very inflexible with minimal opportunity for new product development. These disadvantages have been fully addressed in the development of our new FET-500 series lab and small scale gel spinning system.”

Solvent extraction
A major FET innovation is the introduction of a patented batch system for solvent extraction exploiting supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2).

UHMWPE production, until now, has involved the use of large volumes of hazardous solvents such as dichloromethane (DCM) or hexane. The UHMWPE powder is mixed with mineral oil to form a gel which is subsequently extruded, cooled and solidified. The oil is then extracted from the fibres using DCM or hexane and the solid fibres are then drawn at high temperature to further align the polymer chains, resulting in final strong and tough fibres. Typically, it takes 10 kg of Hexane to extract 1 kg of oil. 

“Solvent reclamation using extraction baths and hot air drying chambers is not practical for the scale of our system,” explains FET’s Senior Material and Process Scientist Kris Kortsen. “The current baths employed can be up to 200 metres long and the waste volumes are considerable. Expertise is needed in dealing with such dangerous chemicals and overall the process has an immense environmental impact.

“CO2, by contrast, is a cheap and abundant sustainable solvent that is non-toxic, non-flammable and leaves no residue.” 

Closed loop
FET’s closed-loop system can achieve more than 95% solvent recovery without loss of performance, resulting in residue-free UHMWPE filament yarns via a vastly improved route in terms of both safety and logistics.

A further innovation is the highly modular drawing system based on heated godet rollers, enabling flexible temperature and drawing control for new product development and the ability to be expanded at any time to meet customer needs.

A comprehensive LCA study detailing the full savings potential is currently being prepared and will be published shortly.

“Having processed over 130 separate polymers in the development of our extrusion systems, we believe the FET-500 is a game changer,” concludes Richard Slack. “We believe there is a big gap in the market for smaller quantities of UHMWPE, and our first line is now fully operational at the FET Fibre Development Centre in Leeds. We look forward to demonstrating it and discussing its full potential with interested companies from around the world.”

Under its Baldwin brand, BW Converting will partner with Fi-Tech, Inc. at Techtextil North America to demonstrate its TexCoat™ G4 precision spray finishing system, an advanced, sustainable solution designed to reduce chemical waste, minimize water usage and cut energy consumption in textile manufacturing.
Held May 6-8 in Atlanta, Techtextil North America is the premier event for technical textiles and nonwovens in the United States. BW Converting will be present in the Fi-Tech booth A3207 to connect with textile professionals seeking to streamline operations while improving finishing quality and sustainability outcomes.
 
The TexCoat G4 applies chemistry with pinpoint accuracy — on one or both sides of the fabric — with no contamination, overspray or dilution. By eliminating pad baths and reducing the frequency of changeovers, the system significantly improves operational efficiency.
 
Also featured at Techtextil North America will be BW Converting's Baldwin Plasma Pure surface modification technology. Plasma Pure boosts adhesion and uptake in dyeing, coating and laminating processes by optimizing surface energy at the molecular level, without the need for added chemicals.

High registration numbers with many new exhibitors herald a strong Techtextil and Texprocess 2026. From 21 to 24 April 2026, international suppliers present their innovations at the two leading trade fairs - whether in terms of materials, technologies or sustainability. With an adapted hall layout and new product groups, Techtextil and Texprocess create the best conditions for this.

Turbulent times for the industry: recession, sustainability requirements and geopolitical challenges are putting market participants under pressure with subdued purchasing behaviour, restrained investment or complex process adjustments. The industry's response: innovation and outstanding solutions. Whether new material ideas, efficient processes or sustainable developments: Very important platforms to present these are the world's leading trade fairs Techtextil and Texprocess in Frankfurt. In addition to the familiar big players, an exceptionally large number of new exhibitors will take part in 2026.

Texprocess 2026: Global visibility for world premieres
Exhibitors from all product groups have already registered to take part in Texprocess, the leading trade fair for processing textile and flexible materials. From cutting and sewing to finishing. Among them are Brother Internationale Industriemaschinen, Gütermann (Germany), Morgan Tecnica (Italy), Robotech (Turkey), Sheffield Cutting Equipment (USA), Style3D | Assyst, Veit and Zünd Germany. New exhibitors include Amann (Germany), Coloreel (Sweden), Comelz, Cutting Edge Automation Machines (Italy) or Pathfinder Australia. Driven by automation, digitalisation and AI, exhibitors are developing increasingly efficient solutions - and are thus resonating with the needs of the international market.

Techtextil 2026: realising market potential with innovations
Techtextil is also seeing great booking interest from exhibitors. Among those registered are Concordia Textiles (Belgium), Groz-Beckert (Germany), Klopman International (Italy), Kolon Industries (Korea), Lenzing, Sattler Pro-Tex (Austria), Sioen (Belgium) and Schill+Seilacher (Germany). The many new exhibitors include Dystar Singapore, Indorama Ventures Fibers Germany, Monteiro Ribas (Portugal), TreeToTextile (Sweden) and Woolmark (Germany). The leading trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens covers the entire spectrum of high-tech textiles. Suppliers meet buyers from a wide range of industries here. They are looking for customised material solutions - whether for the automotive or apparel industry. For the first time, there is a separate area for Textile Chemicals & Dyes in Hall 9.0, which is already in high demand. The new Performance Apparel Textiles area in Hall 9.0 is also attracting great interest. It offers promising synergies: With Fibres & Yarns, manufacturers find their upstream stage in the same hall. In addition, the proximity to Texprocess in Hall 8.0 makes it even more accessible for the apparel industry.
 
Techtextil and Texprocess will be held from 21 to 24 April 2026.

At the SaigonTex 2025 textile machinery exhibition which is taking place from April 9-12 in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, Monforts will highlight the benefits of its advanced finishing technologies for denim.

Over 900 Monforts THERMEX hotflue dyeing systems are now operational in the main textile producing countries, with many of them devoted to denim production, and a significant number already reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® and Econtrol®T-CA processes*.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying operation with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes at a temperature of between 120-130°C and a relative humidity volume of 25-30%.

Monforts denim range concepts which are successfully running worldwide enable the processing of high-qualtiy and reproducible fabrics which are stretched and skewed far more gently than with conventional range combinations. The ‘double rubber’ version of a THERMEX range comprises two compressive shrinkage units and two felt calenders in line, for super elastic and bi-elastic materials. Additionally, the combined drying, stretching and skewing functions for denim fabric are possible with the ThermoStretch unit, which can also include an EcoApplicator system for the minimum application of necessary finishing chemicals.

In 2024, Vietnam surpassed Bangladesh to become the world’s second-largest textiles and apparel exporter, trailing only China, with total export revenues reaching $44 billion. This is in part due to tariffs that are currently 10-20% lower than China’s and significantly cheaper labour costs – less than half of China’s.

Vietnam’s textile and apparel industry is poised for further expansion in 2025, leveraging cost advantages and rapid production turnaround while proactively managing rising logistics costs and adapting to shifting trade dynamics.

* Econtrol® is a registered trademark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany.

Monforts has completed the installation of a Baldwin TexCoat™ G4 digital spray unit at its Advanced Technology Center (ATC) in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

It has been successfully integrated into one of the two full-size Montex stenter lines at the ATC and is now available for full customer trials, especially for making full use of the latest advanced sustainable finishing chemistries supplied by Archroma.

BW Converting’s TexCoat G4 enables softeners, antimicrobials, durable water repellents, flame retardants and many other water-based chemicals to be precisely applied to textile surfaces, and in combination with industry-leading Montex stenters can reduce water, chemistry and energy consumption by up to 50% compared to traditional pad application processes.

Monforts is providing vital support to dyeing and finishing manufacturers in their development projects, successfully boosting the quality and performance of many new finished products while at the same time maximising productivity and resource utilisation

“Our ATC houses two full Montex stenter finishing lines engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full color kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials,” says Monforts Head of Sales for South-East Asia Hans Wroblowski. “It enables our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics under fully confidential, real production conditions and using the results from these trials we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes.

“The new TexCoat installation will make an important contribution to what we can achieve and we are excited to be working together with Archroma and Baldwin to bring further transformative change to the dyeing and finishing space.”

“This partnership is already creating a buzz in the industry and we have several textile manufacturers lining up to take advantage of running production trials at the ATC,” adds Rick Stanford, vice-president of global business development for textiles at BW Converting. “Together we are in a position as never before to accelerate the pace of transformative change in the dyeing and finishing space that will result in significantly lower energy, chemicals and water consumption with increased productivity and higher quality.”

“With the extension of our long-standing partnership with Baldwin – now including the processing expertise and knowhow of Monforts – the development of new concepts for chemical functionalisation and coloration will be taken a step further,” says Michael Schuhmann, Global Market Segment Manager for Technical Textiles at Archroma Textile Effects. “Additionally, we can now demonstrate potential savings and performance levels under actual industrial conditions, providing mill partners with clear proof of efficiency without disrupting their production.”

A collaboration that unites Monforts’ dyeing and finishing equipment, BW Converting’s Baldwin TexCoat G4™ digital spray technology and Archroma’s chemistries towards sustainable solutions is charting the course for the future of sustainable textile finishing.

Together, the three companies will support dyeing and finishing manufacturers, a critical part of the textile supply chain, in their development projects, boosting the quality and performance of their finished products, while at the same time maximizing the productivity and resource utilization of the finishing application process.  

Kicking off the partnership in the second half of this year, Monforts will install BW Converting’s full-width Baldwin TexCoat digital spray unit on a stenter frame at its Advanced Technology Center (ATC) at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

“Our ATC already houses two full Montex stenter finishing lines engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full color kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials,” explained Monforts Junior Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “It enables our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics under fully confidential, real production conditions and using the results from these trials we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes. The new TexCoat installation will make an important contribution to what we can achieve.”
 
TexCoat G4 revolutionizes the traditional water- and energy-intensive pad-dry-cure finishing process by precisely applying chemistry including softeners, antimicrobials, durable water repellents, flame retardants, resins and most other water-based chemicals across the textile surface only where it is required, on one or both sides of the fabric. The system can therefore reduce water, chemistry and energy consumption by up to 50% compared to traditional pad application processes.

The TexCoat G4 installation brings together the surface functions, fabric transport and thermal processing technology of Monforts stenter frames with Archroma’s specialty chemicals, applied with TexCoat’s contactless precision, to achieve optimum absorption and maximum efficacy, exceeding the performance of traditional pad applications.

“Archroma’s commitment to advancing sustainability solutions for technical textiles has led to a pivotal partnership with Baldwin, where the benefits of contactless precision spray combined with our innovative solutions have helped textile manufacturers achieve greater energy and water savings,” said Michael Schuhmann, Global Marketing Segment Manager for Technical Textiles, Archroma Textile Effects. “We are thrilled to take the partnership to the next level with the integration of a renowned equipment expert. Together, we will bring the best of our expertise in sustainable technologies to our customers around the world.”

“Baldwin has enjoyed a great relationship with Monforts and Archroma over the last few years,” added Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s Vice-President of Business Development for Textiles “Individually, we are working hard to assist our customers to achieve their sustainability and environmental targets but this is the first time the three companies have committed to working together with a focus on bringing transformative change to the dyeing and finishing space. It will result in significantly lower energy, chemical and water consumption with increased productivity and higher quality.  We strongly believe that this partnership will be greater than the sum of its parts.”

Beyond textile finishing, Monforts, Baldwin and Archroma will work together to develop a versatile offering that will include coloration concepts and in the not-too-distant future the partners additionally plan to expand their collaboration to continuous spray dye applications developed by Baldwin.

The German Pavilion is confirmed to return from 19 – 21 September at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre. For the first time since borders reopened, industry leaders gathering under the banner will bolster the fair’s innovation and sustainability with a comprehensive showcase, from raw materials to machinery, complemented by diversified fringe events across the fairground.

Located in a prime area of the International Hall, the German Pavilion is set to draw crowds with its reputable products and technology. Assembling under the pavilion this year will be some new and returning German exhibitors, having made their names in the sub-categories of automotive nonwovens, industrial-use monofilaments, weaving machinery, and many more. After confirming their participation, Hansa Industrie-Mixer, J.H. Ziegler Nonwovens and New Materials, Lindauer Dornier, Monosuisse, and Perlon will showcase their expertise together with other highlighted exhibitors, including:

• Autefa Solutions – A full-service provider for turnkey nonwoven lines and machines, the company offers machines for fibre opening and blending, carding, crosslapping, needle punching, spunlace, thermobonding, amongst others. At the fair, the company will showcase technology spanning 10 application areas.
• Emtec Electronic – The company develops specialised test devices for the nonwoven and textile industries. An innovation said to quantify handfeel, its TSA Tactile Sensation Analyzer objectively measures the softness, smoothness and stiffness of textiles and nonwovens, as well as their recovery and elongation.
• Neuenhauser Group – The Neuenhauser Textile division provides fully-automated cleaning systems, transport automation solutions, winding technology, high-performance can coilers and weaving machine accessories. With decades of experience, the Group will debut at the fair with various innovative Agrotech, Buildtech, and Geotech solutions.
• Reifenhauser Enka Tecnica – A specialised provider of spinnerets and precision components to the man-made fibre industry. The company manufactures a broad spectrum of spinnerets and spin packs for all spinning processes, as well as premium jet strips for hydro-entangling with extra-long service life.
• Reifenhauser Reicofil – A well-known provider of spunbond, meltblown and composite lines for nonwoven applications in the hygiene, medical, filtration and industrial sectors. Offering a wide range of machinery at the show, the company is developing technical solutions for sophisticated and sustainable applications, with a strong focus on machine intelligence and energy efficiency.

New fringe events to further advocate innovation and sustainability
At this year’s fair, AiDLab^[1] will present its AI-based Textile Inspection System (AiTIS). A world first, AiTIS automatically and accurately detects material defects in nonwovens (especially for mask making), and various textiles, reflecting the collaborative efforts of AiDLab and a Hong Kong healthcare brand. At the event, Professor Calvin Wong, CEO & Centre Director of AiDLab, will introduce the system. This will be followed by a panel discussion and Q&A session with independent consultant Mr Eric Sham and moderated by AiDLab’s Mr Barry Tai, including insights on how advanced technology is reshaping the textile industry landscape.

Going beyond innovation, the fringe programme will also for the first time include Econogy Talks^[2] and sustainability tours to reflect Messe Frankfurt’s commitment to a sustainable future. Fairgoers can also visit the Innovation Showcase Area for outstanding industry achievements, with the focus this year on cutting-edge technology, green development and high-end applications. Product submission is now open. Contact us to submit your products, or register here for your visitor badge.

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

Cinte Techtextil China will be held from 19 – 21 September 2024.

^[1] The Laboratory for Artificial Intelligence in Design, jointly established by The Hong Kong Polytechnic University and the UK’s Royal College of Art, under HKSAR government funding
^[2] ‘Texpertise Econogy’ – the umbrella for Messe Frankfurt’s sustainability activities at its more than 50 textile trade shows worldwide

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, will together with its Brazilian representative BRASTEMA TECNOLOGIA TEXTIL LTDA. participate in the FIMEC 2024 47th International Fair of Leather, Chemicals, Components, Machines and Equipment for Footwear and Tanneries in Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil from 12th - 14th March 2024.

FIMEC offers the opportunity to reach out to the Brazilian shoe manufacturing industry with proposals for flat knitted fabrics as an alternative to conventional leather. Since participating in FIMEC over the years, SHIMA SEIKI has steadily expanded its market for shoe-upper knitting machines in Brazil. It will be showcasing its latest computerized flat knitting technology to demonstrate how they apply to footwear and other sportswear as well.

The company is showing its new SWG-XR® WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine for the first time in Brazil. SWG-XR® features 4 needle beds and SHIMA SEIKI’s original SlideNeedle™, capable of producing high-quality fine gauge WHOLEGARMENT® products in all needles, and will be knitting WHOLEGARMENT® sportswear at FIMEC. For conventional shaped knitting, the compact SVR®093 machine with a short knitting width is specially developed for knitting shoe uppers, while the workhorse N.SSR®112 shaping machine features the latest garment knitting technology in an economical yet reliable package.
Both SVR®093 and N.SSR®112 will be knitting shoe uppers at FIMEC while utilizing the R2CARRIAGE®, WideGauge® knitting, spring-type moveable sinker, DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb. The classic SFG® seamless glove knitting machine will be knitting safety-oriented work gloves to round out SHIMA SEIKI’s multi-faceted display.

SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 3D design system will also be available for demonstrations in design
and simulation suited to shoe production.

The EU's planned ban on the entire group of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) would endanger many industrial processes, states VDMA Textile Machinery. Textile manufacturing would be affected twice – by missing important chemicals for technical textile production and by the lack of indispensable textile machine components. The latter would affect the whole supply chain from textile machinery manufacturers and its suppliers to the textile industry in the EU.

Solid PFAS parts are widely used in textile machinery production, especially where extreme conditions prevail. Verena Thies, Managing Shareholder Thies GmbH & Co. KG, explains: “Our textile dyeing machines are world leaders and set standards in efficiency and sustainability. They work under pressure at temperatures of up to 140° C using highly acidic, highly basic and/or oxidative or even reductive chemicals. This is precisely why PFAS is needed, for example, in seals and rings, flaps as well as valves for a long-lasting and high-quality machine concept – because there are no alternatives with qualitatively equivalent properties. In addition, PTFE semi-finished products enable a sliding and gentle contact with the textile fabric in ecologically important techniques in the transformation of textile wet finishing."

PTFE and also FKM are fluoropolymers (fluoroplastics and fluoroelastomers), a group within the broad PFAS range of about 10,000 substances which would be banned for production, use and sale in the EU. They are high-tech materials, and as so-called "polymers of low concern" are not a danger to the environment, according to the OECD. Furthermore, these components are installed inside a machine and exchanged or disposed of properly. PFAS such as PTFE and FKM must be exempted from the ban, demands the VDMA in its position paper.

"In this way, the association also supports the approach taken in Great Britain. With the 10,000 substances, everything is lumped together, although the various PFAS groups are very different," warns Dr Sarah Brückner, Head of VDMA Environmental Affairs and Sustainability. "We should take our cue from the UK and look at the substance groups in a differentiated way."
Apart from several types of dyeing machines, PFAS components are indispensable in textile drying machines (e.g., conveyor dryers, tumblers and stenters) and damping machines. They are also used in fully automatic chemical dispensing systems and pressure vessels for thermochemical treatment of textile recycling material, heat recovery systems and wastewater treatment technology. This means that a lot of machines needed for a sustainable textile production would be affected by the PFAS ban.

VDMA Textile Machinery will take part in the ongoing EU public consultation. The association will describe indispensable key functionalities and conditions of use in the textile machinery sector as well as the consequences for the companies and the customers in the EU if the ban is imposed. The consultation ends on September 25, 2023, and VDMA urged its members affected by the planned restriction to participate in the consultation at an early stage. This is the only way to ensure that the broad scope of the mechanical and plant engineering sector is represented.

Fong’s Europe will showcase the advanced features of its THEN Smartflow TSF at ITMA 2023.

These include the machine’s smart fabric transport system which ensures extremely even dyeing of the fabric through accurate control of the nozzle pressure and pump power, with movement through the machine via an PLC-controlled plaiting system and variable chamber adjustment depending on fabric characteristics.

The machine is equipped with a heat exchanger enabling it to heat the dyeing liquor quickly and efficiently, to reduce energy consumption. Its bath preparation unit and chemical dosing system ensure accurate and precise dosing of chemicals, dyestuff and salt, reducing chemical waste and optimising results while reducing process times.

The Smartflow TSF operates with a low liquor ratio of down to 1:2.5 with full loading of synthetic fabrics, which means that it requires less water to dye a given amount of fabric compared to traditional dyeing machines. This not only reduces the consumption of water and steam, but also the amount of wastewater generated.

The machine's control panel is easy to use, allowing operators to programme and monitor processes with ease.