From the Sector

Best Companies Ltd is a leader in their field and work with some of the world’s best-known organisations - measuring, improving and recognising great workplace engagement.

The Outstanding rating is a direct result of the bHeard colleague engagement survey, completed by 739 paid SATCoL staff and 1,174 SATCoL volunteers. The survey measured how colleagues rate SATCoL on eight factors: Leadership, My Company, Wellbeing, Fair Deal, My Manager, My Team, Personal Growth and Giving Something Back.

The paid colleagues survey results reveal that 88% of staff would recommend SATCoL as an employer to friends, 88% believe SATCoL has a clear focus and direction that they understand, and 97% understand and use SATCoL’s values (of Compassion, Accountability, Respect and Equality) within their core roles.

This is the first time SATCoL has engaged with an external provider of colleague engagement surveys, having run the process in-house previously with some success. One of the key aims for partnering with an external supplier was to increase levels of engagement. To this end Best Companies developed a volunteer survey for SATCoL which saw volunteer response rates more than double compared to previous in-house survey results.

The volunteers survey results reveal that 94% feel proud to work for SATCoL, 96% say their team are fun to work with, 93% believe SATCoL is a caring organisation interested in volunteer wellbeing, and 92% state that their volunteering role is good for their personal growth.

Commenting on the accreditation, Trevor Caffull, SATCoL’s Manager Director, said:
“I am extremely grateful to all our staff and volunteer colleagues who contribute to making SATCoL a caring workplace and an Outstanding Employer. This independent recognition shows that SATCoL’s investment in its people – including learning and development, wellbeing and improving workplace environments – as well as the investments made that set us apart as a leader in the charity retail and reuse and recycling sectors, are improvements that our colleagues have influenced, embraced and welcomed.”
Trevor continued:

“We are delighted with SATCoL’s 2 Star Outstanding Employer Accreditation, however we have lots of opportunity to reach the ultimate goal of ‘3 Star World-Class Employer’ and that will be our goal in the coming months and years.”

Salvation Army Trading Company Ltd (SATCoL) is the trading arm (and a wholly owned subsidiary) of The Salvation Army in the UK and Republic of Ireland. SATCoL actively encourages the reuse and recycling of donated clothing and other household items through over 250 charity stores, and a nationwide network of around 9,000 clothing banks.

Each year, SATCoL diverts millions of items to good causes and reuses and recycles 67,000 tonnes of textiles. Through the reuse and recycling of textiles and other items collected, SATCoL prevents over 453,000 tonnes of greenhouse gases from entering the atmosphere annually.

With the support of the British public, SATCoL has donated millions of pounds to The Salvation Army to help its work with vulnerable people in the UK (over £100 million has been donated in the last ten years). Salvation Army Trading Company Ltd is a registered company (2605817).

Electrically conductive prints on textiles are the basis for functional textiles with electronic functions, so-called smart textiles. Conductive inks and binders must be well matched to ensure permanent conductivity even under external mechanical influences such as stretching, pressure and bending. The DITF are working on new ink formulations that meet these requirements.

Sports, fashion and the automotive industry - textiles with integrated electronics are used in many areas of everyday life. Textile-integrated electronics help monitor human vital parameter and performance data, and enable the fashion industry to integrate interactive elements into clothing. It is used in a variety of ways in the automotive industry, where it enhances passenger comfort and safety.

The most common conductive components used in textiles to date are wrapped yarns and tension-relieved conductive yarns arranged in loops. They ensure a reliable flow of electricity even in textiles subject to high mechanical stress. Their production is complex. As a result, they are expensive and only partially suitable for the mass market. Printing conductive structures on textile surfaces using screen printing or chromojet technology, a digital spray printing technique, is much more cost-effective.

However, there are several challenges in producing printed conductive textiles. One of the biggest difficulties is ensuring the conductivity of the printed materials while maintaining the flexibility and softness of the textile. In addition, the durability of the prints can deteriorate, especially with frequent washing or mechanical stress. Stretching or movement can cause the prints to break or tear. Electrical conductivity is often impaired even under low mechanical stress, when the stretching of the conductive layer is not reversible. The adhesion between the print application and the textile can weaken with repeated stretching. This results in poor long-term stability. The integration of electronic elements into textiles is also often hampered by the fact that the connection between the conductive elements and the electronic components is prone to failure.

The DITF are working on new solutions to address these challenges. The Color- and Functional-Printing Working Group is working on new ink and paste formulations based on conductive particles and elastic binders. The aim is to improve the elongation behavior of prints while maintaining good electrical conductivity. The elastic properties of the binder are largely determined by the auxiliaries and additives used. The DITF determine the interactions between these components and derive knowledge for the formulation of new elastic and highly conductive inks.

The hysteresis properties of new ink formulations are of central importance. Hysteresis refers to the ability of a material to maintain its properties under repeated strain or stress. Well-matched hysteresis supports the conductivity of printed structures even under continuous mechanical stress. Suitable materials can adapt to the movement of the textile without compromising the conductive properties.

The goal of the research team at the DITF is to expand the knowledge of the interactions between conductive particles and binders, between additives and textile auxiliaries, in order to produce highly conductive inks and pastes. This will make it possible to produce the best possible and most resistant print coatings for different textile substrates and different applications, enabling reliable conductivity.

Under these conditions, the costs for mass production of textile electronics can be reduced.

On 19-20 February 2025, social partners from the Italian textile and fashion industry met in Rome to deepen their understanding of the upcoming EU legislations and their impact on the Italian textile industry, as well as to further discuss the next step in their effort for a more broad and effective social dialogue. In the context of the EU co-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry, the meeting was also the occasion to draft the Rome Declaration: a joint statement to emphasise the social partners’ strong commitment to work together.

The meeting in Rome brought together representatives of the Italian textile industry, including the Italian employer association (Confindustria Moda), national trade unions (Femca-Cisl, Filctem-Cgil and Uiltec-Uil), regional clusters and companies to discuss the future of the industry. Together, they discussed the proposal for a sectoral industrial policy strategy to present to the Italian Government and the EU Commission for the support, consolidation and development of the textile-clothing supply chain.

The Rome Declaration includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together for a more competitive and fair Italian textile industry. The Declaration also calls upon the Italian Government and the European Union to support the upcoming transformation of the textile and clothing industries, technology and skills upgrades, regional development and just transition.

Says Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary stated that “the Italian textile industry employs around 300,000 workers, or 24% of the European workforce in the textile and clothing sector, making it the largest in Europe. In a context of numerous challenges for the European textile industry, such as unfair globalization, green and digital transition, social dialogue is a real lever for improving working conditions and job security. We are committed alongside our Italian partners to a resilient and attractive textile industry in Italy”.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “Italy represents 36% of the total European textile and fashion industry; it is critically important therefore to maintain a strong Italian textile industry, which can be a benchmark for other countries. Combining quality, creativity and innovation is the recipe for success. This requires a dynamic company spirit, where employers and employees work hand in hand.”

Source Fashion, Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show, opens next Tuesday 18th February, at Olympia London, welcoming buyers, retailers, and sourcing professionals from around the world. Running until 20th February 2025, the show will host hundreds of makers and manufacturers from over 20 key sourcing regions, including Turkey, Taiwan, Ethiopia, Egypt, China, India, the UK, France, Hong Kong, and Portugal.

With leading retailers and brands such as ASOS, Barbour, Boohoo, Flannels, Frasers Group, French Connection, GANT, Hawes & Curtis, Jaded London, John Lewis, Lipsy, Lucy & Yak, ME+EM, Marks & Spencer, Moss Bros, Mothercare, New Look, Next, Oliver Bonas, Primark, Saraha, Toast, The Very Group, Whistles, already pre-registered, Source Fashion is set to be a must-attend event for businesses looking to source responsibly and discover innovative solutions to industry challenges.

A Platform for Innovation and Sustainability
The three-day event goes beyond sourcing, offering a dynamic content programme across two dedicated stages: The Source Catwalk Stage and the Source Debates Stage.

Visitors can explore the latest trends and insights into responsible fashion with The Source Catwalk Show – taking place three times daily, showcasing curated womenswear looks built from exhibitors’ collections, highlighting trends such as Circus Play, Romance, Plant Power, and Hyper Tactile.

Exhibitor Highlights
Source Fashion will feature an impressive line-up of responsible manufacturers from around the globe with the spotlight on the UK, Egypt, India, and Portugal. Highlights include:

• Dee Kay Knitwear (UK) – A leading supplier of high-quality wholesale knitwear.
• YOKA YO (UK) - Helping take designs from initial concept through to final product development.
• The Natural Fibre Company (UK) – An award-winning yarn manufacturer working with rare breeds and natural fibres.
• National Weaving (UK) – Specialists in premium woven and printed labels, with a focus on sustainability The Fashion Incubator (Egypt) – A sustainable fashion manufacturer specialising in knit, woven, sportswear, and swimwear.
• Desert Crafts Design Studio (India) – A womenswear manufacturer focused on casual and resort wear.
• WonderRaw (Portugal) – Experts in luxury blanks and fully customised garments made from 100% organic cotton.

Headline Designer: Stuart Trevor
Scottish-born fashion designer Stuart Trevor, founder of All Saints and sustainability advocate, is set to headline the Source Catwalk. After years mentoring brands with a positive social and environmental impact, Trevor’s latest label, STUART TREVOR, focuses on sustainable fashion made from repurposed materials. Trevor set out to create the world’s most sustainable brand with a mission to make buying sustainable products easier, more fun and create non-destructive clothing from other peoples’ waste. His designs will take centre stage at the Source Catwalk, demonstrating how fashion can be both stylish and sustainable.

The Source Catwalk also offers a diverse and informative programme of conversations with thought leaders, retail case studies and challenging panel discussions. Now located on the balcony, presenting leading voices within ethical fashion.

• Source Debates – A new stage for this year, providing an opportunity to voice thoughts and get involved in the conversations - tackling the industry biggest questions and challenges, from sustainability and circularity to transparency and the future of fashion sourcing.

Speaker Highlights

Source Fashion’s comprehensive speaker programme will bring together industry leaders, sustainability experts, and fashion innovators. Key sessions include:

• ‘From Fast Fashion to Circularity’ (Source Catwalk, Tuesday, 11:30 AM) – A discussion on how brands can shift towards sustainable models while competing in the fast-fashion landscape, featuring leaders from Vivo Footwear, Neem London, YOU Underwear, and Johnston’s of Elgin.
• ‘A collaborative journey from farm to fashion’ (Source Catwalk, Tuesday, 1:30pm) - explores how The Natural Fibre Company and John Smedley have forged a groundbreaking partnership, transforming heritage craftsmanship and sustainable innovation into a powerful success story.
• ‘Tech and sustainability: why data holds the key for a greener future’ (Source Catwalk, Tuesday 2:10pm) - Linda Pimmeshofer from Insider Trends explores how data-driven innovation can revolutionise fashion’s fight against emissions, with global examples and a vision for a tech-enabled future
• ‘The Urgency of Transparency’ (Source Catwalk, Wednesday, 11:00 AM) – A fireside chat with Andrew Xeni, Founder of Nobody’s Child and Fabacus, on why transparency is critical in building consumer trust.
• ‘Ecosystem Thinking in Fashion: Redesigning for Regeneration’ (Source Catwalk, Wednesday, 2:10 PM) - Safia Minney MBE, Founder of Fashion Declares is joined by Dr Sri Ram, Founder - Bags of Ethics, Supreme Group, Matthias Knappe, Head of Unit, International Trade Centre (ITC) and Nick Reed, Founder, Neem London for to explore scaling circular practices, adopting regenerative models, and building stronger supply chain relationships to inspire action and meaningful change.
• ‘A Clothing Company That Doesn’t Produce Clothes’ (Source Catwalk, Wednesday, 1:30 PM) – Stuart Trevor in conversation about his upcycling-focused brand and the future of circular fashion.
• Designing tomorrow: Is speculative thinking the key to fashion retail's future? (Source Catwalk, Wednesday, 1:30 PM) - Geraldine Wharry, Fashion Futurist, Trend Atelier on speculative design.
• ‘Taking the Lead When Legislation Falls Short’ (Source Debates, Thursday, 11:00 AM) – This session, with Safia Minney MBE, looks at how businesses can drive sustainability initiatives beyond Government mandates.
• Can fashion brands embrace sustainability without the fear of being perfect? (Source Debates, Thursday, 11:30 AM) - Jonny Rowe and Joe Russell, Co-Founders, Land of Plenty look at encouraging small wins, while questioning the common fears surrounding building out sustainable practices and the role storytelling and branding to help overcome these.

As part of an ongoing collaboration, The International Trade Centre, under the UK Trade Partnerships Programme, will showcase ethical suppliers from Ethiopia, Madagascar, Tanzania, and Nepal, providing visitors with an exclusive look at sustainable sourcing options from these regions.

The Middle East’s industrial sector is synonymous with high-risk environments, particularly in oil and gas production. Workers face hazards such as flash fires, chemical splashes and electric arcs—all within the context of demanding conditions, including sweltering heat and long shifts. In response to these challenges, flame-retardant (FR) fabrics with stretch properties are emerging as the next generation of protective workwear, delivering comfort, safety and durability.

Traditionally, FR fabrics prioritised protection over comfort. However, the increasing demand for ergonomic clothing has driven a shift towards stretch solutions. Thanks to innovations in textile engineering and the influence of modern fashion, these fabrics now combine unparalleled flexibility with the stringent safety standards required in high-risk industries.

Stretch fabrics such as Carrington Textiles’ Flametougher 290AS Flex and Flameflex 300AS demonstrate how this transition is not just a luxury but a necessity. Flametougher 290AS Flex, for example, incorporates 19.5% CORDURA® nylon 6,6 for exceptional durability and strength, blended with 78% cotton for lightweight comfort. At just 290gsm, it ensures workers maintain mobility without compromising on protection.

Meeting the needs of Middle Eastern workers, Flameflex 300AS, weighing 300gsm, provides a perfect balance of durability, flexibility and flame resistance. Its 83% cotton and 14% polyester composition ensures longevity, while 2% EOL fibres enable enhanced elasticity—critical for workers in physically intensive roles such as oil rig operations or refinery maintenance.

Flexibility in workwear isn’t just a matter of comfort, it’s a matter of safety. Restricted movement can lead to fatigue, reduced compliance with safety standards and accidents. Stretch FR fabrics excel in adaptability. Whether it’s a worker scaling scaffolding on an oil platform or handling maintenance in a petrochemical plant, garments made with stretch FR textiles allow for the unrestricted movement critical to performing tasks safely.

The rise of these type of fabrics also owes much to the fashion industry. Decades of innovation in stretch garments for everyday use have created a ripple effect in workwear. Workers increasingly expect the same level of comfort and fit in their protective clothing, and manufacturers are responding.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an engineering order from US textile recycling innovator Circ in anticipation of its first large-scale textile recycling plant. The plant will be the first to recover cotton and polyester from blended textile waste.

Circ® is a pioneering company focused on sustainable solutions for the fashion industry. By converting fashion waste into reusable raw materials for fabrics, Circ reduces the need for petroleum and natural resources. The company’s mission is to build a truly circular economy to protect the planet from the cost of clothing.

ANDRITZ has been successfully conducting trials for Circ at the ANDRITZ Fiber R&D Center in Springfield, Ohio, USA, for several years. The successful partnership and recent developments have led to the decision to expand this cooperation.

The majority of fashion waste consists of polyester-cotton blends, which poses a significant challenge to achieving greater circularity. In particular, the separation of cellulosic and synthetic fibers from textile waste has been a major obstacle. Circ’s innovative recycling process can break down polycotton textile waste into its original components – polyester and cotton. The forthcoming plant will process 200 tons of textile waste per day, allowing cotton to be recycled for lyocell production and polyester to be reused for polyester production. This will reduce the need for virgin raw materials.

Conor Hartman, Chief Operating Officer at Circ, says: “We remain excited about this continued collaboration with ANDRITZ. Together, we will commercialize Circ’s innovative recycling process and take another step towards a truly circular fashion industry. With its expertise in engineering and building large-scale process equipment, ANDRITZ is the right partner to help us transform textile waste into recycled fibers on an industrial level.

Michael Waupotitsch, Vice President Textile Recycling at ANDRITZ, comments: “We are eager to support Circ in their vision of circularity because the technology they have developed is uniquely suited to solve one of the biggest challenges in fashion waste and recycling. With our holistic knowledge in resizing, mechanical separation, hydrothermal processing, recovery of cellulosic pulp as well as pulp cleaning and pulp drying, we have the right expertise to help them achieve their goals. Our experience in process development and machinery will help bring their innovative recycling technology to life.”

The Cleanzone, the trade fair for cleanroom and purity technology, hygiene and contamination control, took place in Frankfurt am Main on September 25 and 26, 2024. The Cleanzone Award is presented at the trade fair to recognize groundbreaking advances in innovation, automation, sustainability and efficiency in the field of cleanroom technology. This year, the award went to the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) and the Dastex Group GmbH for the development of a test method for cleanroom garments - the ReBa².

With the Realistic Bacterial Barrier (ReBa²) test method, the DITF offer a new biological method for determining the bacterial penetration for cleanroom garment textiles. Particularly in the manufacturing of sterile pharmaceuticals, bacteria, skin flakes and fiber particles that can originate from persons and their clothing pose a risk to the products manufactured in the cleanroom. Special cleanroom garments have the task of minimizing this risk. To assess the barrier function, the “bacterial penetration” is determined, among other properties. This provides information on how many bacteria from the human skin flora pass through the cleanroom garments to the outside when worn.

The ReBa² test method largely reproduces the situation when wearing cleanroom garments and thus enables a meaningful determination of the bacterial penetration. It is also possible to consider numerous test scenarios. In addition to the influence of intermediate garments worn under the cleanroom garments, the sweating process or the pre-wetting of the cleanroom garments by liquid splashes in the manufacturing process or by disinfectants can also be tested. The method was developed at the DITF in collaboration with the Dastex Group GmbH.

The Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division of the Swiss Oerlikon Group is expanding its customer services and spare parts business in the area of machines and systems for the production of carpet yarns (BCF) and industrial yarns (IDY). To this end, the company concluded an agreement with the Truetzschler Group, based in Moenchengladbach, Germany, in August. Technology experts and service staff from Oerlikon Neumag are now the new contacts for customer services and the spare parts business for Truetzschler's BCF and IDY technologies installed in the market. The Moenchengladbach-based textile machinery manufacturer is withdrawing from this business segment in order to concentrate on the spinning, card clothing and nonwovens businesses in future.

Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions offers complete solutions for the manmade fiber industry. They range from extrusion and polycondensation plants to texturized yarn, and are accompanied by automation and digital solutions. The supply of all process steps from a single source ensures a harmonized technology that guarantees high quality of the yarns produced.

Based in Neumuenster, Germany, Oerlikon Neumag, a branch of Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG and a brand of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division, has been an established and broadly positioned international supplier with proven expertise in the field of BCF for decades. The division's sister company Oerlikon Barmag from Remscheid, Germany, contributes its expertise in the field of IDY systems.

As a traditional textile country, India has also established a strong position in the field of manmade fiber production in recent decades. The West Asian country has now become the second largest polyester yarn manufacturer in the world. The Indian textile industry covers the entire value chain from the melt to the finished textile end product.

The technical textiles sector in particular is regarded as a future market. With an average growth rate of 12% since 2013, this dynamic sector accounts for around 13% of the entire Indian textile and clothing market, according to the government organization Invest India. The market volume has almost doubled in the past ten years. In India, the production of industrial yarn has so far relied heavily on polyamide. Oerlikon Barmag has a strong market position here. "In recent years, we have commissioned plants for numerous customers," says Dr. Wolfgang Ernst, Head of Sales of the Oerlikon Business Unit Manmade Fibers Solutions.

Increasing demand for industrial polyester yarns
The construction boom and the increasing use of geotextiles and industrial textiles in various infrastructure projects as well as in agriculture and aquaculture show enormous growth potential. This is supported by the government's 2021 industrial development program, which includes technical textiles as one of ten priority sectors. The program is based on reducing dependence on imports. Until now, a large proportion of the technical textiles and yarns required in the country have been imported.

The trend towards high-quality technical textiles for the domestic market has also been noted by the Remscheid-based machine and plant manufacturer. "We are receiving more and more inquiries from Indian customers for spinning systems for industrial yarns," says Dr. Wolfgang Ernst. "What is new is the great interest shown by companies from downstream processes that are looking for backward integration. We attribute this to the stricter regulations of the Bureau of Indian Standards. Until now, industrial yarns were mainly imported from China. In order to guarantee the quality of the processed yarns, this has been strictly regulated by the government since last year. It therefore makes sense for Indian textile producers to enter the yarn manufacturing sector." This development was also noticeable at this year's Techtextil in Frankfurt, where the experts from Oerlikon Barmag were able to hold a disproportionately high number of technical discussions with Indian customers and interested parties.

The flexible spinning concepts of Oerlikon Barmag enable a variety of possible yarn products for numerous applications. The portfolio includes processes for the production of polyamide and polyester yarns with the required physical properties for a wide range of end applications, whether HMLS yarns for car tires, yarns for geotextiles, safety belts or even airbags.

KARL MAYER launches its RE 4-1, a new Raschel machine for the efficient production of highly elastic textiles. With this newcomer, KARL MAYER is expanding its Elastomeric series and supplementing the established RE 4-1 as part of its two-product line strategy. With the price-performance ratio, the machine fulfils the requirements of the volume business in particular.

A 170″ version of the machine has already been on sale in China for several months. The pre-release got off to a successful start. Encouraged by the feedback from the market, KARL MAYER has developed an RE 4-1 with a working width of 190″ and will be offering both models to its global customers from middle of July 2024.

The RE 4-1 can be ordered with E 28 and E 32 gauges. The 170" version is also available with E 36. The standard equipment includes KAMCOS® 2, batching device 18 E, Carbon fibre technology and N-pattern drive for controlling the guide bars: stitch-forming GB 1 to GB 3 and inlayGB 4. There are also optional features, including sensors for measuring the yarn tension, laser stop, batching device 34 A, LED lighting and an installation kit.

With its technical configuration, the RE4-1 is optimised for the production of elastic and non-elastic standard fabrics, especially for the underwear sector. One of the top products of the Raschel machine with its high productivity and short amortisation time is elastic Power net. This open-meshed, airy fabric has become an indispensable part of the lingerie and clothing sector. It is often used in the wings of bras as well as for inserts in sports leggings, shirts, jackets and swimwear, where it provides delicate control and comfort. Power net can also be found in semi-technical applications, for example as outer and inner pockets for rucksacks and clothing.
In addition to Power net, Raschel Locknit, Sleek net and Satin net are also part of the production repertoire of RE 4-1. The fabrics with a decreasing density from Raschel Locknit to Satin net also play a role in underwear and clothing production. For their production, filament yarn is threaded in the front two guide bars and elastane in the back ones.