From the Sector

It’s hard to find skilled operators for spinning mills in Vietnam. Rapid industrialization is creating competition for young talents and many workers choose roles in other industries. Customer Tra Ly Hung Yen has found a partner in Trützschler to help mitigate the effects of this labor shortage and enable successful operations. 

Traditionally, yarn manufacturers need many experienced and qualified workers. However, it is difficult to attract and retain these operators. In addition, raw material fluctuations add extra challenges for all spinners. In order to produce yarn with consistent quality, it is necessary to make precise adjustments to the processing system – and this requires trained employees. A major headache for businesses in quality-driven markets like Vietnam. 

Tra Ly is one of those businesses. The company’s success is built on a longstanding reputation for quality, so labor shortages generated a potential threat to its future. The family-owned company mainly produces carded and combed cotton (Ne 20 to Ne 40) through standard and compact spinning methods. It has a production capacity of 60 tons per day, with half of that output exported to China, Pakistan or Bangladesh. To find a solution to its labor shortage, the Tra Ly team contacted its partners at Trützschler. 

The answer from Trützschler: Highly automated, self-optimizing machinery that helps to maintain consistent quality – even when processing raw materials of varying qualities. This reduces the need for manual intervention. As Do Thi Lan Phuong, Director of Tra Ly, points out: “Innovations from Trützschler offer efficient handling that frees up time for our employees. In this way, we are able to cope with labor shortages. These machines enable higher productivity, improved sliver evenness and more energy-efficient manufacturing. And working together with Trützschler is always a great experience because of their deep expertise, can-do attitude and positive energy.” 

Automatized and optimized 

Tra Ly now operates the following advanced technologies from Trützschler: 

• T-SCAN TS-T5: High-quality foreign part separation 
  This foreign part separator uses state-of-the-art sensors and image-processing technology to detect foreign parts like stems, leaf fragments or other waste – and then automatically ejects them to minimize fiber loss. The highly efficient machine is also easy to clean and maintain, even when production is running. 
• The intelligent card TC 19i with T-GO 
  Tra Ly is also benefiting from the TC 19i with T-GO, which is the world’s only proven automatic gap optimizer for carding machines. It increases quality and flexibility by self-adjusting to ensure the best possible carding gap settings in real time, even when raw materials or other production conditions fluctuate. 
• Autoleveller Draw Frame TD-10 
  Automated functions like AUTO DRAFT and OPTI SET enable this draw frame to ensure excellent yarn quality by self-optimizing the break draft and drafting point in real time. These innovations help machine operators to adapt settings for various raw material types. 
• Boosting productivity: The 12-head comber TCO 21XL 
  This machine increases productivity by about 50% because it operates 12 heads instead of a typical eight head setup, while delivering the same excellent quality. Features like COUNT MONITORING perform automatic checks on sliver count variations from a given limit, thus contributing to consistent quality. 

Fit for the future 
Tra Ly recently installed My Mill, Trützschler’s mill monitoring system. Based on real-time data from My Mill, Trützschler experts can conduct digital audits to provide on-site guidance, training and troubleshooting. Trützschler is looking forward to continuing to support Tra Ly. The Vietnamese company is excited about the ongoing collaboration, too. “Working together with Trützschler is always a great experience because of their deep expertise, can-do attitude, and positive energy,” says Do Thi Lan Phuong, Director of Tra Ly.

Bringing together India’s textile community under one roof, with a special focus on textile and garment manufacturing machinery and technology and innovations in fabrics, digital screen print, accessories, and trims, the Gartex Texprocess India Mumbai 2025 edition presents industry advancements.

With over 125 exhibitors from India, China, Italy, Japan, Korea, Singapore and Taiwan - the show features strong international participation and highlights from India’s growing role in the global textiles industry.

Addressing the gathering, Chief Guest, Shri Sanjay Savkare, Hon’ble Minister of Textiles, Government of Maharashtra stated: “Denims have become a major fashion trend, and the government has announced relief on import duty for machinery. However, the central government, in an endeavour to encourage local manufacturing in the country, has announced the Technical Textile Mission, which empowers companies to receive subsidies and start manufacturing. Maharashtra has launched its textile policy, which operates in a zonal format. Zone 1 can help you gain a 45% subsidy, Zone 2 offers 40%, Zone 3 provides 35%, and so on. We have announced Zero-Waste Fashion, which aims to control textile waste by recycling it and converting it into usable materials like carpets. For this, the private sector can benefit from an electricity subsidy of Rs 2 per unit, and Rs 3 per unit for co-operative societies, in addition to the previously mentioned subsidies. In Amravati, the PM Mitra Park will be launched soon, as most of the work is complete, with only final touch-ups pending. I thank the organisers for having me here and wish you all the very best.”

Shri Shashank Chaudhary (IAS), Additional CEO, Invest UP informed: “Under the PM Mitra Scheme, we are developing a mega-integrated textile park near Lucknow, covering 1,000 acres of land. It will be set up under the PPP model, which offers a great opportunity for investors. The state of Uttar Pradesh has been developing new portals for single-window clearance and approvals. We have successfully managed to attract good investors.”

Mr Gaurav Juneja, Director of MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd, shared: “Gartex Texprocess India as a show has only evolved consistently. This is reflected in our Mumbai and New Delhi editions each year. As India strengthens its position in global textile manufacturing, I believe that this show has become a platform to shape conversations and update the industry with innovations that will drive the next phase of growth for India’s textiles and fashion ecosystem. We are honoured to have Invest Uttar Pradesh as our State Partners at this edition and with the kind of innovations on the show floor in denim, fabrics, machinery and more - I am sure visitors have tremendous business opportunities through our platform.”

Similar sentiments were shared by Mr Raj Manek, Executive Director & Board Member, Messe Frankfurt Asia Holdings Ltd, expressed: “This show goes beyond exhibition; it is about enabling industry transformation. At a time when global supply chains are realigning, platforms like Gartex Texprocess India become crucial to connecting industry stakeholders. This also bridges Indian expertise with international demand and we are pleased to welcome the textile fraternity to the show and see the scale of innovations from the industry.”  

The expo is jointly organised by MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd and Messe Frankfurt Trade Fair India Pvt Ltd. Gartex Texprocess India Mumbai is scheduled from 22 – 24 May 2025 at Jio World Convention Centre, Mumbai, Maharashtra.

Rieter has signed a definitive agreement to acquire Barmag from OC Oerlikon for an upfront equity purchase price of CHF 713 million. The acquisition will create a globally leading player in natural and manmade fibers, headquartered in Winterthur, Switzerland, and is highly complementary to Rieter’s short-staple fiber business.

Barmag is a provider of filament spinning systems used for manufacturing manmade fibers, texturing machines, BCF1) systems, staple fiber spinning and nonwovens solutions and – as an engineering services provider – offers solutions along the textile value chain. In the financial year 2024, the company generated sales of CHF 734 million with around 2 600 employees.

Barmag comprises the established product brands Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven. The main markets for the Barmag product portfolio are China, India, Türkiye and the United States of America. The innovative and technologically advanced products are developed in Remscheid and Neumünster (Germany) as well as Suzhou and Wuxi (China).

As fiber consumption is projected to rise, most of the growth is expected to come from manmade fibers. The increase of natural fibers such as cotton and linen is limited due to natural boundaries. Manmade fibers will help to meet expanding demand for clothing, technical and home textiles. The strategic acquisition of Barmag will transform Rieter into a leading supplier for converting natural and manmade fibers into yarn.

The transaction is fully in-line with Rieter’s strategy and follows previous acquisitions, where Rieter complemented its portfolio in short-staple fiber machinery and expanded its footprint in components and machinery for manmade fiber production. The combined platform allows to leverage the recovery of global filament and short staple fiber spinning markets and to reduce cyclicality due to diversification of end-markets. The acquisition will further enhance Rieter’s position in the important Asia-Pacific region and provide access to Barmag’s filament expertise, which will help to further scale Rieter’s own capabilities and improve digitization solutions and product sustainability.

Rieter’s largest shareholder, Peter Spuhler (c. 33% shareholding) is supportive of the transaction and committed to participating in the rights-issue pro-rata by exercising its subscription rights as well as investing additional capital through the non-pre-emptive capital raise. After the capital increase, PCS Holding AG is expected to retain a shareholding of c. 33%.

Additionally, Rieter’s second-largest shareholder, Martin Haefner (c. 10%), also supports the transaction and has committed to participating pro-rata in the rights-issue by exercising its subscription rights and investing additional capital through the non-pre-emptive capital raise.

As the Indian textile and apparel sector embraces digitisation, sustainability, smarter production and responsible manufacturing, Gartex Texprocess India emerges as a critical node in this narrative bringing together the textile and garment machinery manufacturers, denim mill owners, digital textile printing technology solution providers, as well as manufacturers of apparel fabrics, textile and textile processing machinery and more, who are set to unfold innovations. With 125+ participating companies, representing 300+ brands and growing participation from international countries, this edition will offer a panoramic view of the sectors next chapter.

India’s textile industry often referred to as the lifeblood of nations manufacturing economy, is on the cusp of a technology-led transformation. Leading this evolution is Gartex Texprocess India – Mumbai organised by Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd. The expo is a definitive sourcing and innovation platform growing with global participation and solutions for the future.

What sets this edition apart is its focused attention on technology integration, automation and responsible manufacturing – themes that are redefining how India produces, sources and innovates on the global textile map through its product showcase as well as curated knowledge sessions.

A global showcase:
Making headlines this year is the strong international participation especially from China, Italy, Japan, Korea, Singapore and a dedicated pavilion for Taiwan, along with the leading Indian companies on board. Displaying a wide range of products for the garment and textile manufacturing industry. A few international names include: EPSON, Kornit and MACPI International among others. Some will participate directly and some through their partners and distributors. This global representation is matched with a stellar Indian line-up featuring names such as Balaji Sewing Machines, DCC, EH Turel, Mexum, Pantone and Sky Enterprises amongst others.

Denim Takes Centre Stage:
With the backing of Denim Manufacturers Association, the Denim Show at Gartex Texprocess India is expected to bring together all the major denim manufacturers and mill owners from India under one roof. As Indian denim exports steadily rise and demand for eco-conscious denim production grows, the show provides a much-needed window into how this resilient segment is re-inventing itself with sustainability and style at its core.

Trims & Accessories:
Beyond denim, this edition places a sharp focus on innovative fabric solutions, trims, digital screen printing and accessories – with dedicated zones for the Fabrics and Trims shows and Screen-Print India - Textile.

With 25+ new entrants and expanding categories, the Mumbai edition will be a hotspot for denim designers, boutique owners, apparel brands and labels, garment manufacturers, dyeing and finishing companies, distributors and agents of textile and garment machinery and accessories, merchandisers and sourcing heads scouting for the latest in material and design and more.

As India marches towards becoming a global textile powerhouse, Gartex Texprocess India – Mumbai 2025 will serve as the ultimate confluence of technology, talent and trade, weaving together a stronger future for the Indian textile industry.

Gartex Texprocess India is a leading exhibition in the textile manufacturing technology with collocated show: The Denim Show’ and dedicated featured zones of ‘Fabrics and Trims Show’ and ‘Screen Print India – Textile’ making this a one-stop destination for the textile manufacturing.

The expo is jointly organised by MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd and Messe Frankfurt Trade Fair India Pvt Ltd. Gartex Texprocess India Mumbai and is scheduled from 22 – 24 May 2025 at Jio World Convention Centre, Mumbai, Maharashtra.

The full potential of advanced coating and finishing technologies for the production of technical textiles will be outlined by Monforts specialists which takes place in Atlanta, Georgia, in May.

The company and its US representative PSP Marketing, of Charlotte, North Carolina, will be part of the VDMA German Pavilion at the show, at stand 3231 within the Georgia World Congress Center.

A wide range of technical fabrics is now being successfully created with MontexCoat coating units in comination with Montex stenters, including tents, tarpaulins and awnings, black-out roller blinds and sail cloth, automotive interior fabrics and medical disposables.

Full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments can all be carried out with the extremely versatile system. Solvent coatings in explosion-proof conditions, knife coating, roller coating and screen printing are further options and the MontexCoat has been engineered to enable users to switch quickly from one fabric run to the next without compromising on the economical use of energy or raw materials.

“There has already been terrific interest in the MontexCoat and the range of different techniques it enables and we’re far from exhausting its potential uses,” says Achim Gesser, Monforts Area Sales Manager who will be at the show in Atlanta. “For companies who don’t need such flexibility, the economical coaTTex unit is exclusively dedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating.

“At our ATC in Mönchengladbach, Germany, however, a MontexCoat unit has been integrated into a full Montex technical textiles pilot line, on which our customers can run trials of new fabrics and finishing formulations in widths of up to 1.8 metres. This line has been engineered to provide the ultimate in precision coating and finishing in industrial-scale trials.”

To fully demonstrate what’s possible, the Montex line at the ATC is able to treat materials not only at temperatures of up to 320°C, but apply separate coatings on the two sides of certain materials at different temperatures, within a single pass through the machine. To achieve this, the first two chambers of the stenter are fitted with TwinTherm burners for individual top/bottom heating. A temperature differential of up to 60°C can be achieved between the upper and lower nozzles within the chamber, depending on the treatment parameters.

“There are many applications where employing two separate temperature treatments is beneficial, such as floorcoverings – where the textile face fabric is treated at one temperature and the rubber backing at another – as well as PVC flooring employing chemical foams, black-out roller blinds with heavy backings or PTFE-coated filter materials,” Gesser explains.

Another key feature of the technical textiles line at the ATC is the Montex stenter’s special stretching device which is capable of pulling ten tons in length and ten tons in width – a huge amount per square metre of fabric and necessary in the production of materials such as woven or 3D knits for high temperature filter media.

Monforts also offers the special T-max grease-free stenter chain for high temperature treatments up to 320°C, at machine speeds up to 100m/min and transverse tension up to 2,500 N/m with the benefits of no maintenance and no grease marks on fabric.

“Technical textiles are extremely diverse in their end-use applications but the needs of the manufacturers of very different materials are still uniform in many respects,” says Gesser. “European-built Montex stenters provide maximum finishing efficiency and many of our customers are operating them 24 hours a day over seamless shifts.”

Existing customers include manufacturers in the fields of home textiles, geotextiles and automotive fabrics, as well as functional materials and dedicated Montex lines have also been supplied to producers of airbags, flame retardant barrier fabrics and spacer fabrics.

“Techtextil North America is a very important show for us because technical textiles are a key pillar of our production programme,” Gesser concludes. “North America is one of our major markets and we are looking forward to reconnecting with existing and potentially new customers at this always-vibrant show.”

At the forthcoming IGATEX textile machinery exhibition in Karachi, Pakistan, from April 24-26, Monforts will highlight the benefits of its latest Universal Energy Tower.

This stand-alone air/air heat exchanger module enables recovery of the heat from the exhaust air flow of thermal systems such as existing stenters and THERMEX dyeing ranges with infrared predriers, resulting in energy savings of up to 25%, depending on the exhaust air volume and operating temperature.

The Energy Tower has an integrated fresh air fan with speed control. It offers good access to the heat exchanger modules for easy cleaning as well as a large condensate collection tank with a lint filter. Visualisation of real-time temperature and maintenance intervals is also included.

The Universal Energy Tower is one of a series of modular upgrades the company has developed to be added to existing finishing lines already in production, with a significant impact on a manufacturer’s operational costs.

The Matex Eco Applicator is meanwhile an alternative to the conventional padding process for energy-conscious finishing and achieving considerable savings in the energy required for drying treated fabrics. The precise amount of finishing chemical can be applied to the fabric and with less residual moisture after application of only approximately 35%, so that less drying capacity is required in the stenter, which leads to huge energy savings.

Finishing chemicals can be evenly applied on either or both sides of the fabric, and two separate treatments can be applied to front and back.

This makes the unit ideal for the production of, for example, double-performance hydrophobic/hydrophilic fabrics for professional clothing, as well as the over dyeing or finishing of denim fabrics.

At the SaigonTex 2025 textile machinery exhibition which is taking place from April 9-12 in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, Monforts will highlight the benefits of its advanced finishing technologies for denim.

Over 900 Monforts THERMEX hotflue dyeing systems are now operational in the main textile producing countries, with many of them devoted to denim production, and a significant number already reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® and Econtrol®T-CA processes*.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying operation with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes at a temperature of between 120-130°C and a relative humidity volume of 25-30%.

Monforts denim range concepts which are successfully running worldwide enable the processing of high-qualtiy and reproducible fabrics which are stretched and skewed far more gently than with conventional range combinations. The ‘double rubber’ version of a THERMEX range comprises two compressive shrinkage units and two felt calenders in line, for super elastic and bi-elastic materials. Additionally, the combined drying, stretching and skewing functions for denim fabric are possible with the ThermoStretch unit, which can also include an EcoApplicator system for the minimum application of necessary finishing chemicals.

In 2024, Vietnam surpassed Bangladesh to become the world’s second-largest textiles and apparel exporter, trailing only China, with total export revenues reaching $44 billion. This is in part due to tariffs that are currently 10-20% lower than China’s and significantly cheaper labour costs – less than half of China’s.

Vietnam’s textile and apparel industry is poised for further expansion in 2025, leveraging cost advantages and rapid production turnaround while proactively managing rising logistics costs and adapting to shifting trade dynamics.

* Econtrol® is a registered trademark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany.

Starlinger & Co GmbH puts the focus on its technologies for sustainable and efficient polypropylene tape production as well as food-safe recycled PET and polyolefins at Chinaplas this year.

With a maximum melting capacity of 1000 kg per hour and production speeds of up to 550 meters per minute, Starlinger’s starEX 1600 tape extrusion line unites high efficiency with resource-saving state-of-the-art design. It produces top-quality PP or HDPE/LLDPE tapes for high-performance packaging applications for dry bulk goods such as woven PP sacks or big bags. Specially developed and worldwide unique machine components such as the eqoSTRETCH stretching and annealing system ensure energy-saving production and uniform tape characteristics, while the eqoCLEAN filter system enables the processing of high shares of recycled polypropylene for producing more sustainable woven PP packaging.

“We have gathered decades of expertise both in woven plastic packaging production as well as in plastics recycling,” said Harald Neumüller, Chief Sales Officer at Starlinger. “By combining this know-how, we have developed technology that helps packaging manufacturers to establish closed packaging loops and make plastic packaging circular.” Starlinger has already realised lighthouse projects with customers in the FIBC sector, proposing a closed-loop economy for big bags made from rPP and rPET. “We consider used plastics as a resource, not waste,” Neumüller continued. “This is the only way to get a grip on the increasing amount of plastic waste worldwide. By collecting used plastics and reprocessing it we protect our environment, conserve natural resources, and at the same time save money that would need to be spent for waste treatment facilities and environment clean-ups.”

Precision to the core
With its high-speed winding technology, the twinTAPE+ automatic precision winder is Starlinger’s top-scale tape winder model. It ensures that the produced PP tapes from the starEX tape extrusion line are wound into perfect packages that improve productivity and fabric quality on the looms. The bevelled bobbin edges avoid that tapes come off during doffing, transport and handling and increase loom efficiency during weaving. The automatic bobbin change procedure of twinTAPE winders reduces operator work significantly, and the patented linear traverse system features an infinitely variable stroke, allowing a wide variety of bobbin designs. As the winder does not need lubrication, maintenance work is reduced to cleaning, which saves significant amounts of operator time.

Kornit Digital LTD., a global pioneer in sustainable, on-demand digital fashion and textile production technologies, announced that American Classics Apparel, Inc., a top wholesaler of licensed music, movie, and gaming apparel, is adopting the Kornit Apollo platform. This next-generation direct-to-garment powerhouse accelerates the company’s shift from traditional screen printing to high-speed digital production – ensuring it can keep pace with the surging customer demand and rapid growth of the e-tailer marketplace.
 
Headquartered in Hanceville, Alabama, American Classics has been a trusted name in licensed apparel for nearly three decades – offering iconic designs from beloved brands in music (AC/DC), movies (Rocky) and television (Cheers). Sold through retailers like Walmart and online platforms such as Amazon, their products define fan gear excellence.
 
With the addition of Kornit Apollo to its arsenal on top of Kornit Atlas MAX POLY production and range of earlier Kornit direct-to-garment systems – the company is ready to deliver faster, more efficiently and with unmatched quality.

From April 24 to 26, Karachi will host IGATEX, the International Garment & Textile Machinery Exhibition & Conference, the leading trade fair for the textile machinery sector in Pakistan. After many years, ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, together with Italian Trade Agency, is once again organizing an Italian collective participation. A total of 11 companies will take part: 3 in the spinning hall and the remaining 8 in the finishing section. 10 are ACIMIT members companies: Audaces, Biancalani, Brazzoli, Danitech, Fadis, Ferraro, Mcs, Pinter Caipo, Pozzi Leopoldo, Zanfrini.

“In Pakistan, the textile sector, after a long period of strong investments in plants and machinery, has experienced a significant downturn due to a worsening macroeconomic situation in recent years,” commented Marco Salvadè, president of ACIMIT. The trend in Italian textile machinery exports to Pakistan reflects the decline in demand. The value of textile machinery sold to Pakistan dropped from 134 million euro in 2021 to 44 million euro in 2023. However, in the first nine months of 2024, Italian sales rebounded to 34 million euro, marking a 27% increase compared to the same period in 2023.

“Despite the challenges faced by Pakistani textile companies in recent years,” Salvadè concluded, “the recovery of our exports confirms the validity of ACIMIT and ICE’s decision to organize an Italian collective participation at IGATEX 2025. I believe it is crucial to maintain a presence in the local market, where we are also active with a technological training center at the National Textile University in Faisalabad, established in collaboration with PISIE – the International Polytechnic for Industrial and Economic Development – and Italian Trade Agency. Innovation and quality, which define Italian machinery, remain key factors in further enhancing the international competitiveness of Pakistani textile companies.”