From the Sector

Conservation International and Sateri, a leading global producer of textile fibres, have announced the launch of the third phase of the Poyang Lake Ecosystem Restoration Initiative. This new phase marks a critical milestone in restoring China’s largest freshwater lake by integrating carbon neutrality efforts, building on the initiative’s significant success since its inception in 2019.

Located in Jiangxi Province, in the southeastern part of the country, Poyang Lake plays a critical role in regulating floods in the Yangtze River and supports the livelihoods of more than 45 million people living in the province, contributing more than 15% of the Yangtze River’s annual runoff. It is also a wetland of national and global importance, providing a habitat for flora and fauna of high conservation value, including the critically endangered Siberian crane and finless porpoise.

This new phase marks the fifth year of collaboration between Conservation International, a global non-profit organisation dedicated to protecting nature for the benefit of people and the planet, and Sateri. The initiative has seen significant successes since it began in 2019, including:

• Strengthening the management of 473,000 hectares of protected areas across 50 ecological zones;
• Enhancing the capability of 2,000 wetland rangers through capacity-building programme;
• Improving the habitat management of 350 species of wildlife, including the critically endangered finless porpoise and Siberian crane;
• Supporting the construction of five community artificial-wetlands for wastewater treatment, which can treat 56,000 tonnes of agricultural and domestic sewage; and
• Benefiting 25,000 local community members through livelihood support, vocational capacity-building and environmental education programmes.

Zhang Cheng, Program Director at Conservation International China, emphasized the project’s broader impact, "This initiative has truly enhanced biodiversity conservation and ecological education, while empowering local communities with sustainable livelihoods. It demonstrates the value of collaborative approaches in balancing ecological protection with human well-being."

In line with Sateri’s 2030 aspiration of becoming a ‘net positive impact’ company, the newly-launched third phase will advance these successes by focusing on:

• Research on the Freshwater Health Index (FHI) for the basin
• Protection and restoration of small wetlands
• Better climate change mitigation and adaptation for resilience

This collaboration, supported by the Jiujiang Municipal Government of the Jiangxi Province, underscores the shared commitment of both organisations to advancing biodiversity and sustainable development in one of China’s most vital freshwater ecosystems.

The Poyang Lake Basin Ecological Protection Project highlights Sateri’s efforts to address environmental challenges through practical actions and partnerships. The company continues to prioritize biodiversity conservation and sustainability while encouraging collaboration to achieve these goals.

Cai Zhichao, Vice President of Operations at Sateri, emphasised the initiative’s alignment with the company’s sustainability goals, "At the heart of our operations lies a commitment to the bioeconomy, where we aim to protect the natural resources we use. This conservation initiative not only helps us meet our internal sustainability targets but also contributes to advancing the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (UNSDGs) 6 – Clean Water and Sanitation; 11 – Sustainable Cities and Communities; 12 – Responsible Consumption and Production; 13 – Climate Action and 15 – Life on Land. We accomplish this through innovation, advanced technology and low-carbon practices.”

In recent years, Vietnam has rapidly transformed into one of the world’s key textile producers, solidifying its position as the world’s third-ranked exporter behind China and Bangladesh. With a history rooted in silk textile craftsmanship and currently embracing wide ranging modern textile production, the country’s thriving sector offers tremendous growth prospects for both domestic and international businesses. In a bid to harness the potential in Vietnam and Southeast Asia, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will return from 26 – 28 February 2025, with a renewed focus on promoting sustainability and digital transformation.

Vietnam's textile and apparel sector comprises approximately 7,000 companies and employs over three million workers, with 80% of production capacity used for export and 20% for domestic consumption. Progress is aided by well-developed logistics networks, skilled labour and a stable political environment. As its textile industry evolves, several key trends are influencing its future direction, reflecting a growing emphasis on sustainability and technological advancement, and leading to new opportunities for exhibitors and buyers across the value chain at Vietnam’s comprehensive textile showcase.

Major trends shaping Vietnam's textile market reflected at VIATT
More Vietnamese enterprises are adopting eco-friendly materials, including organic cotton, recycled polyester, and Tencel, while numerous global brands manufacture in Vietnam, and have committed to the "Fashion Industry Charter on Climate Action", aiming to achieve net-zero carbon emissions by 2050.

To further advance sustainable initiatives in the domestic and international textile industry, VIATT 2025 will introduce Econogy Hub, a dedicated platform for innovative, eco-friendly suppliers and service providers to connect with like-minded visitors. The show’s other new Texpertise Econogy features will include the Econogy Finder, an independent verification tool to help sustainable exhibitors effectively communicate their green credentials, and Econogy Talks, the overarching category for eco-focused seminars, forums, and product presentations.

Apart from sustainability, the Vietnamese textile industry is also embracing advanced technologies in design and manufacturing. The launch of the fair’s Innovation & Digital Solutions Zone will provide a centralised platform for exhibitors to showcase innovations such as 3D printing, AI-driven design, and digital printing, which enable manufacturers to boost efficiency and customise products to meet specific market demands.

As well as the introduction of two new product zones, the India Pavilion, organised by The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), will also make its debut at VIATT 2025. Additionally, the Japan and Taiwan Pavilions have confirmed their return, with the Japan Pavilion recognised by VIATT’s visitors as a standout showcase within Southeast Asia's textile fair landscape. Overall, the fair will feature a diverse range of exhibitors across apparel, home textiles, and technical textiles, with many showcasing innovative and sustainable products.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain.

Global Fashion Summit, the international forum for sustainable fashion rooted in Denmark, will be hosted in China next month. The special Global Fashion Summit: Shanghai Gala edition will take place on 7 November 2024 during the China International Import Expo (CIIE). The event, presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) and Chinamind NEXT, will bring together local and international industry stakeholders for an evening of informative discussions during a celebratory gala dinner.

Convening major decision-makers from across the world, Global Fashion Summit was first launched by GFA in Copenhagen in 2009. In the 15 years since its inception, it has become a nexus for agenda-setting discussions and presentations on the most critical environmental, social and ethical issues facing our industry and planet, all intended to spark urgent action and accelerate impact in the industry.

As the first event of its kind in China, the Global Fashion Summit: Shanghai Gala content will build on the theme of June’s Copenhagen Edition - "Unlocking The Next Level". With deadlines for sustainability targets looming, fashion finds itself at a critical juncture. Unlocking the next level of impact requires new depths of collaborative action and sharing of evidence-based progress to overcome barriers.

China plays a critical role in unlocking this transformation. China was the world’s largest exporter of readymade garments in 2023, with a 31.6 per cent market share and exports worth 165 billion USD. The soaring growth of Chinese ultra-fast fashion brands is also significantly shaping consumer purchasing practices, meanwhile, China’s luxury market has almost doubled since in 2019. Global Fashion Summit: Shanghai Gala will therefore aim to promote collaboration across the fashion industry's value chain, highlight pressing environmental and social issues, bridge differences between global markets, eliminate information gaps, and share innovative solutions.

The gala dinner will set the scene ahead of GFA’s participation in CIIE (China International Import Expo) on 8 November 2024 - a forum renowned for its focus on sustainable innovation technology. Federica Marchionni, CEO, GFA, will deliver a keynote address during the CIIE to an audience of esteemed leaders that will showcase how innovation and emerging technologies can drive sustainability in lifestyle sectors and advance the industry towards climate goals.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) has achieved ISCC+ certification for three of its fiber manufacturing sites. In addition to one already ISCC+ certified fiber plant, this marks a significant milestone in the company's ongoing commitment to sustainability and circular economy practices. Across its entire business, a total of nine Indorama Ventures sites are now ISCC+ certified, offering a diverse range of sustainable products, including PTA, PET chips, fibers, and fabrics.

The newly certified high-performance fiber portfolio will serve customers who require technical yarns such as in the Mobility, Tire cords, Airbags, Industrial or Mechanical Rubber Goods sector. The new offerings include:

• Mass balanced (M.B.) polyamides PA6.6 and PA4.6 from the company’s sites in Obernburg (Germany) and Pizzighettone (Italy). Developed in collaboration with key partners, these products match the performance of standard polyamide yarns while reducing GHG emissions by approximately 55% at the polymer level.
• Bio-based high-tenacity PA4.10 (M.B.) yarn made in Obernburg (Germany) for tire and specialties applications. This 100% bio-content polymer, produced from bio-based Sebacic Acid and bio-based Di-Amino Butane (DAB) component via mass balancing, supports significant GHG emissions reduction due to the innovative raw material.
• Recycled PET yarns and tire cord fabric from Indorama Ventures’ site in Kaiping (China). These yarns and fabrics made from 100% recycled PET, represent the company’s efforts to drive the evolution towards circular practices and lower carbon products.

ISCC+ Certification
The ISCC+ (International Sustainability and Carbon Certification) is a globally recognized standard for the sustainable production of biomass, and bio-based products, including recycled content. This certification ensures that materials are sourced and processed responsibly, reducing the environmental impact and promoting a circular economy.

Europe’s responsible sourcing shows Source Home & Gift and Source Fashion have announced an Intelligence Series partnership with Retail 100 to provide guidance and insights into international sourcing.

Recorded in partnership with Retail 100 in the Source studios, the ‘Intelligence Series’ is designed to provide valuable insights and practical tips to help navigate the dynamic world of home and gift sourcing.

With over 100 years of retail experience, Retail 100 provides international expertise and knowledge ranging across the retail sector including fashion, homeware, gifting, toys, seasonal, garden, and beauty. The strategic and collaborative partnership across the Source portfolio of shows, kicks off with a beginner’s guide to sourcing followed by a series of videos covering eight key sourcing regions.

In the first video, ‘A Beginners Guide to Sourcing’ join ex-John Lewis buyers Anna Berry and Sara Allbright from Retail 100 for an in-depth dive into sourcing including where to start, how to plan your sourcing routes, how to create a critical path, as well as country choice, navigating shipping, sustainable and responsible sourcing, visas and travel tips.

The ‘Sourcing Intelligence - Country Focus’ videos explore the unique aspects of sourcing home and gift materials from around the globe. Each video highlights the distinct characteristics, challenges, and opportunities of sourcing in different countries including Turkey, India, Africa, Bangladesh, China Pakistan and Portugal offering valuable insights and expert knowledge to make informed and strategic sourcing decisions.

With the fully recyclable 100% polyester trunk side trim, Autoneum is putting the rear of the vehicle at the center of its efforts for a more circular economy in the automotive industry. The latest addition to Autoneum’s growing portfolio of sustainable monomaterial products made entirely from polyester is based on the existing Pure technology Propylat PET. The component demonstrates an excellent environmental performance in terms of recycled content, waste-free manufacturing and end-of-life recyclability.

New regulations such as the revised End-of-Life Vehicles Directive in Europe are accelerating the automotive industry’s transition from a linear to a circular economy. In this context, the recyclability of vehicles at the end of their service life is becoming increasingly important. This in turn raises the demand for automotive components that have an excellent environmental performance across the product life cycle and at the same time meet the highest standards of material quality and technical performance. Autoneum’s new 100% polyester trunk side trim helps customers achieve their ambitious sustainability targets while offering optimum durability, design flexibility and aesthetics.

As with Autoneum’s environmentally friendly monomaterial carpet systems, the new 100% polyester trunk side trim is fully recyclable. Production cut-offs can be reclaimed, processed and reused, ensuring a closed material loop. Thanks to Autoneum’s high-value recycling concept, the recycled fibers can also be granulated and spun into new fibers, which reduces the need for virgin raw materials and thus conserves natural resources. The carrier material is based on the lightweight Autoneum Pure technology Propylat PET and contains at least 50% recycled fibers. Like all variants of Propylat, the technology features a high proportion of recycled material and can be produced waste-free thanks to its complete vertical integration. In addition, Propylat PET consists of 100% PET and is therefore fully recyclable. The new monomaterial trunk side trim made exclusively from polyester is also available under the Autoneum Blue sustainability label. Blue products feature at least 30% recycled PET that was collected from coastal areas, thus making an important contribution to preventing plastic pollution in the oceans.

Autoneum’s sustainable concept for 100% polyester trunk components is not limited to side trim but can also be applied to tailgate and other trunk trim. Thanks to their unique material composition, the Propylatbased trunk trim parts are lightweight and sound-absorbing, thus contributing to the attenuation of tire and rear e-motor noise. In addition, their geometry can be tailored to individual customer needs while the textile surface improves the overall aesthetic of the parts and at the same time offers a high resistance to scratches. Autoneum’s eco-friendly 100% polyester trunk trim is available in Europe, North America and China.

CARBIOS and Zhink Group, specializing in two global industries, PET and textiles, announce the signing of a joint Letter of Intent to build a biorecycling plant in China using CARBIOS’ revolutionary enzymatic depolymerization technology to serve the global market. This agreement officializes collaboration towards a long-term partnership in view of a first licensing contract to build a plant with a minimum annual processing capacity of 50k tons of prepared PET waste and would contribute to accelerating a circular economy for plastic and textiles. China is a key market for CARBIOS, and this agreement would establish a presence in this dominant market.

With 67 million tons of PET produced annually, representing 61% of global production^[1], China is the world's largest PET producer. With regional and global demand for recycled PET growing, China also has the potential to take the lead in recycled PET (r-PET) production. In 2021, 58% of the world’s r-PET was consumed in Asia (with 38% in China^[2]) underscoring this region’s importance both as a major producer and consumer.

Furthermore, China is a key transformer of PET into resins and fibers used in numerous applications in the packaging and textile industries.  Most notably, China is the primary country for transforming PET into fiber, representing 78% of all PET fiber transformation in the world^[3].

For Zhink, the strategic focus is on the development of two global industries, PET and textiles, and to be a leader with sustainable competitiveness. Zhink is a major actor within the PET market with an annual production of 3 million tons of PET, serving domestic and global markets. CARBIOS has developed a enzymatic depolymerization technology that enables efficient and solvent-free recycling of PET plastic and textile waste into virgin-like products. The initial agreement between the two groups would allow Zhink to increase its recycled PET capacities and meet its sustainable competitiveness objectives by offering r-PET from enzymatic recycling: a circular recycling solution that can process all types of PET waste including hard-to-recycle waste (such as opaque and colored bottles, multilayer food trays and textile waste) while reducing CO2 emissions by 57%^[4] compared with virgin PET production. For CARBIOS, this agreement marks a significant step in the deployment of its technology worldwide and roll-out of its licensing model to achieve its ambition to become a leading technology provider in the recycling of PET by 2035. This Asia-based plant under license by Zhink would come in addition to the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant which is currently under construction in Longlaville, France.

^[1] HIS Markit 2021, Market Research Future 2021
^[2] HIS Markit 2021, Market Research Future 2021
^[3] HIS Markit 2021, Market Research Future 2021
^[4] Database ecoinvent 3.8; French scenario, taking into account the detour of 50% of PET waste from conventional end-of-life. Virgin PET: 2.53 kg CO2/kg (cradle to gate)

Cascale, a non-profit alliance for driving impact in consumer goods (formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition), announces Colin Browne as its new Chief Executive Officer, effective May 1, 2024.

Browne previously served as Interim CEO and Chief Operating Officer of Under Armour, a Cascale member. During his tenure at Under Armour, Browne oversaw sustainability efforts and, in addition, led significant transformations across supply chain, go-to-market and technology. In 2023, the company shared achievements related to its environmental footprint, product circularity, and renewable energy goals – some accomplished with Cascale’s Higg Index suite of tools.

Prior to joining Under Armour, Browne was managing director of Asia Sourcing for VF Corporation, a Cascale member that includes The North Face, Timberland, Vans, and Smartwool brands. In addition to his experience leading brands, Browne also spent four years running manufacturing plants in Thailand and began his career at Bally Shoe factories in the UK. He has lived and worked in the UK, South Korea, mainland China, the Philippines, Thailand, Hong Kong SAR, and the USA; his international experience and localized approach underscore his commitment to Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) both in and outside of the workplace. Browne also served as the Chairman of the American Apparel and Footwear Association and was on the board of the World Federation of Sporting Goods Industries. As a member of the Worldly Board, the leader in environmental and social impact data for the apparel and footwear industry and the exclusive platform for Cascale’s Higg Index tools, Browne will ensure a unified approach to advancing sustainability initiatives across both organizations.

During his first 100 days with Cascale, Browne will connect with the organization’s 300+ members across the value chain, emphasizing manufacturer engagement and relationship building. He will also engage Cascale’s broader ecosystem of stakeholders including NGOs, governments, and academia. Browne is personally committed to Cascale’s vision to lead the consumer goods industry to combat climate change, foster decent work for all, and build a nature-positive future.

As part of a broader initiative to reduce environmental impacts and keep ahead of evolving global chemical regulations, Active Apparel Group (AAG), manufacturer of performance apparel for the leisure/lifestyle and active market, is embracing water-based OEKO-TEX 100 Class 1 Standard Printing Inks in their manufacturing process.

Common and inexpensive inks used in the global manufacture of apparel contain a wide range of toxic chemicals, including phthalates, petroleum-based co-solvents, PVC, and other volatile organic compounds. AAG’s initiative to use OEKO-TEX approved, water-based inks creates benefits for factory workers, people living local to these factories, consumers, and everyone downstream.

AAG offers a range of printing methods to address a variety of customer needs, including:  digital printing, screen printing, and heat transfers for on-garment logos and care instructions. OEKO-TEX certified water-based inks are used for all of its digital printing and for the majority of its screen printing. These non-toxic water-based inks offer a socially and environmentally better alternative to the more commonly used Plastisol inks.

Making a sizable environmental impact, the printing service of AAG’s business is significant. Digital printing averages 25,000 meters per month with screen printing averaging 60,000 garments per month.

The use of water-based inks requires a skilled production team and training of employees is ongoing. AAG currently employs 30 people at its printing operations in Ningbo, China.

2024 is a turning point for the European textiles and clothing industry: From 6 to 9 June 2024, European citizens will vote for a new European Parliament and, based on the results, a new European Commission will be formed. In view of this important election, EURATEX publishes a Manifesto, presenting 15 requests which will help to ensure a competitive European textiles and clothing industry.

The textile and apparel industry is making a substantial contribution to European wealth, jobs and growth. Europe counts 192,000 companies employing 1.3 million workers with a turnover of €167 billion and over €67 billion of exports. Entrepreneurship should be recognised as the foundation for a competitive textile industry, offering high quality and sustainable products, based on innovation, creativity and design. European policy makers should recognise such role to textiles and apparel companies and have an open dialogue to create better framework conditions to operate in the internal and global markets.

To realise that vision, the industry and policy makers need to work together on a mix of policy measures and initiatives, which are coherent and offer a transparent and predictable framework for our companies, and make them more resilient and competitive.

These policies should focus around four points:

Develop and implement a “smart” EU industrial policy
Europe should create policies which enhance competitiveness, instead of creating administrative burdens. To EURATEX, each new piece of legislation should undergo a “competitiveness test” to critically look at the impact of the new rules. Europe should also create a favourable environment to promote education and jobs in the industry. The EU textile industry currently employees 1,3 million people, 30% of which is above 50 years old. A critical bottleneck for the textile industry is to attract (young) people and make sure these people have the right set of skills, to operate in a changing textile ecosystem. EURATEX also asks the EU to invest in innovation and digitalisation as they are key to the European competitive advantage. Not only, as the last years have proved, Europe should provide companies with access to sustainable energy at lower prices.

No sustainability without competitiveness
The EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles is pushing our sector towards new business models with a lower environmental footprint. To realise that ambition, no less than 16 regulatory proposals are on the table, each of them with a different timetable, managed by different departments of the European Commission. EURATEX is committed to sustainability, but asks for economic realism. This set of new regulations needs to be coherent, enforceable, feasible and applicable for SMEs, and not push textile companies out of the market. Moreover, some member states are moving forward faster and some legislations will be decided at national level, creating fragmentation of the market. Such scenarios will hamper Europe and its possibilities to grow.

Ensure free and fair trade
With $224 billion in sold merchandise, Europe is the second major world exporters of textiles and clothes after China ($321 billion). It is therefore important that the global market should be open, free and fair for our industry to continue to thrive. Besides the support to FTAs in general, EURATEX wants to emphasise that all trade agreements should offer effective market access for EU companies and a level playing field in these markets. A free and open market should go hand in hand also with protection against free riders. The EU must always consider enforcement and enforceability when making new laws; it should also take action together with the member states for a better coordination with harmonised criteria for action among Customs Authorities.

Incentivise the Demand for sustainable textiles
Sustainable textile products typically come at a premium price, making it difficult for many consumers and buyers to purchase such products. Many surveys across Europe confirm that around 50% of interviewees do not purchase sustainable fashion products and the main reason is price. EURATEX believes that, to create a demand and help consumers to buy a (genuine) sustainable textile product, there should be standard requirements and fiscal incentives. Public authorities should also implement green public procurements, by increasing the importance of sustainability criteria in their evaluation grids.