From the Sector

Conservation International and Sateri, a leading global producer of textile fibres, have announced the launch of the third phase of the Poyang Lake Ecosystem Restoration Initiative. This new phase marks a critical milestone in restoring China’s largest freshwater lake by integrating carbon neutrality efforts, building on the initiative’s significant success since its inception in 2019.

Located in Jiangxi Province, in the southeastern part of the country, Poyang Lake plays a critical role in regulating floods in the Yangtze River and supports the livelihoods of more than 45 million people living in the province, contributing more than 15% of the Yangtze River’s annual runoff. It is also a wetland of national and global importance, providing a habitat for flora and fauna of high conservation value, including the critically endangered Siberian crane and finless porpoise.

This new phase marks the fifth year of collaboration between Conservation International, a global non-profit organisation dedicated to protecting nature for the benefit of people and the planet, and Sateri. The initiative has seen significant successes since it began in 2019, including:

• Strengthening the management of 473,000 hectares of protected areas across 50 ecological zones;
• Enhancing the capability of 2,000 wetland rangers through capacity-building programme;
• Improving the habitat management of 350 species of wildlife, including the critically endangered finless porpoise and Siberian crane;
• Supporting the construction of five community artificial-wetlands for wastewater treatment, which can treat 56,000 tonnes of agricultural and domestic sewage; and
• Benefiting 25,000 local community members through livelihood support, vocational capacity-building and environmental education programmes.

Zhang Cheng, Program Director at Conservation International China, emphasized the project’s broader impact, "This initiative has truly enhanced biodiversity conservation and ecological education, while empowering local communities with sustainable livelihoods. It demonstrates the value of collaborative approaches in balancing ecological protection with human well-being."

In line with Sateri’s 2030 aspiration of becoming a ‘net positive impact’ company, the newly-launched third phase will advance these successes by focusing on:

• Research on the Freshwater Health Index (FHI) for the basin
• Protection and restoration of small wetlands
• Better climate change mitigation and adaptation for resilience

This collaboration, supported by the Jiujiang Municipal Government of the Jiangxi Province, underscores the shared commitment of both organisations to advancing biodiversity and sustainable development in one of China’s most vital freshwater ecosystems.

The Poyang Lake Basin Ecological Protection Project highlights Sateri’s efforts to address environmental challenges through practical actions and partnerships. The company continues to prioritize biodiversity conservation and sustainability while encouraging collaboration to achieve these goals.

Cai Zhichao, Vice President of Operations at Sateri, emphasised the initiative’s alignment with the company’s sustainability goals, "At the heart of our operations lies a commitment to the bioeconomy, where we aim to protect the natural resources we use. This conservation initiative not only helps us meet our internal sustainability targets but also contributes to advancing the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (UNSDGs) 6 – Clean Water and Sanitation; 11 – Sustainable Cities and Communities; 12 – Responsible Consumption and Production; 13 – Climate Action and 15 – Life on Land. We accomplish this through innovation, advanced technology and low-carbon practices.”

In cotton cultivation, soil quality and the associated fertility and health of the soil play a key role. For this reason, the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) in Washington has carried out an ambitious research project on this topic in collaboration with various international partner organisations – with promising results.

New and old methods
Soil health has long been the focus of agriculture and therefore also of cotton cultivation. The International Cotton Advisory Committee has repeatedly emphasised the importance of soil health for cotton farming in the past. The focus was particularly on the situation in developing countries, where yields are still low compared to those in developed countries. An ICAC team has now developed a special programme to improve soil health, based on studies by international research teams and practical experience. The aim is to help cotton producers to achieve better, higher quality crop yields in healthy soil and, at the same time, contribute to climate protection with traditional, sustainable agricultural methods for soil cultivation that have been used for years. Valuable biomaterials are produced using various composting and fermentation methods.

The building blocks of soil improvement
Biochar, bokashi and jeevamrit are important components of proven methods for soil improvement. All three are seen as beneficial products for promoting sustainable agricultural practices. They are inexpensive to produce and, when combined and mixed, they offer effective solutions for restoring degraded, i.e. quality-reduced soils of varying consistency. This is a constant challenge, especially in African regions.

Biochar
Following the recommendations of the ICAC, biochar is produced using the ‘Cone Pit Open-Earth Kiln’ technique. This involves burning the cotton stalks left over from the harvest.
The production of biochar is rooted in history: evidence shows that indigenous peoples in the Amazon used a form called ‘terra preta’ to enrich the soil over 1,000 years ago. In modern-day agriculture, the use of biochar has been rapidly gaining momentum over the last ten years. Africa in particular has seen a significant increase. The ICAC team discovered that biochar is particularly useful for improving acidic soils due to its high pH value (8.0 to 11.0). However, in neutral and alkaline soils, biochar can increase the pH of the soil, potentially leading to lower yields. To counteract this, the ICAC team recommends mixing biochar with bokashi compost.

Bokashi
Bokashi is a type of compost originating from Japan that is traditionally produced through a fermentation process using kitchen waste, agricultural residues and effective microorganisms. Bokashi has a highly acidic pH value of 3.5, which makes it an ideal material for balancing the alkalinity of biochar. According to the ICAC, combining biochar with bokashi compost in the right ratios can result in a balanced soil pH of around 6.5, which is ideal for most plants. This method not only neutralises the pH value of the biochar, but also provides essential nutrients for soil organisms and plants.

Jeevamrit
To further improve soil quality where necessary, the ICAC team introduced jeevamrit. Jeevamrit is a traditional Indian method that provides soils with a variety of microorganisms. The production of jeevamrit, which involves processing cow dung and sugarcane molasses, provides a rich source of beneficial microbes that improve nutrient availability and promote soil regeneration.

When biochar, bokashi and jeevamrit are combined, they form the basis for regenerative agriculture. Studies show that biochar improves soil structure, bokashi provides nutrients and jeevamrit promotes microbial diversity, leading to healthier soils, increased productivity and sustainability in agriculture.

Training initiatives promote knowledge
Over the past three years, training courses on regenerative agriculture have been held in Africa, India and Bangladesh. A total of 16 organisations were involved. The training focused on three main technologies: bokashi composting, the ICAC practices for biochar production and jeevamrit for inoculating soils with a variety of soil microbes. The programmes have made the production techniques accessible to smallholder farmers in particular, leading to widespread adoption and improved soil quality.

EDANA, the global association for the nonwovens and related industries, concluded its annual Sustainability Forum at the KBR Royal Library of Belgium in Brussels. This year's forum, themed “Building a Sustainable Future Together,” featured a series of keynote addresses, panel discussions, and collaborative sessions focused on environmental responsibility, corporate social responsibility, and circular economy innovations within the nonwovens sector. With an agenda that bridged policy and practice, the Forum highlighted the latest advancements and strategies aimed at tackling climate change, reducing waste, and enhancing sustainability practices.

Keynote Highlights
The forum featured two keynote speakers: Ana Rovzar, Founder of Polygon AR, opened the Forum with a keynote on the accelerating transition to clean energy. In her speech, she discussed the shift from conventional energy investments to renewables, noting a 50% growth in renewables in 2023 alone. “It is accelerating much faster than people think” she remarked, emphasizing that “real progress requires a united front from governments, businesses, and communities to remove regulatory and technological barriers”.

In another keynote, sustainability expert Mike Barry, formerly of Marks & Spencer, stressed the importance of aligning corporate strategy with sustainability. “Citizens see climate change as a top priority, and companies must act boldly to reduce emissions, especially Scope 3”, he said. “Sustainability is now a vital part of brand identity, and consumers expect more transparency and commitment than ever”.

Innovative Industry Perspectives and EU Policy Impacts
Brieuc Lits, Public Affairs Director at EDANA, examined the potential effects of the EU Green Deal on the nonwovens industry. “The EU’s shift towards balancing sustainability with competitiveness will shape not only policy but the very framework within which we operate”, he noted, emphasizing that the sector must adapt to stay competitive and aligned with regulatory expectations.

Lastly, Paolo Haeusermann, Senior Brand Director and Europe Sustainability Leader at Procter & Gamble, shared insights on advancing sustainability in absorbent hygiene products and emphasized the importance of these items. “We are talking about essential products in people’s lives”, he remarked.

Corporate and Product Sustainability: A Deep Dive
Several industry leaders shared insights on integrating sustainability at every level of business. Carsten Ruff from Nitto Advanced Film Solutions discussed the challenges and strategies of embedding sustainability in corporate culture, particularly in a multinational setting. “Sustainability is not a contradiction to industrial applications; it’s a powerful driver of innovation”, he observed.

Martijn Gipmans from Sphera Solutions highlighted the business value of transparency and life-cycle assessments (LCA). “LCA and transparent ESG reporting can catalyse both business growth and environmental progress”, he explained, stressing the importance of integrated sustainability assessments to reduce the carbon footprint of entire product portfolios.

Christophe Morel-Fourrier, Sustainability Leader for Hygiene, Packaging, and Converting Adhesives at Bostik, introduced the Archimedes tool as a strategic asset for Portfolio Sustainability Assessment. “Archimedes allows us to make transparent, informed decisions that align with our long-term sustainability goals”, he explained. He highlighted that this tool helps companies evaluate the sustainability of their product portfolios, empowering them to make impactful choices that support environmental goals.

The Path Forward: Advancing Circularity and Green Innovation
One of the most discussed topics was the industry's transition toward a circular economy. Albert Hammerschmied from Freudenberg Performance Materials highlighted the importance of post-industrial waste in achieving circularity, particularly in the automotive sector. “The potential for nonwovens in the automotive circular economy is vast, but requires industry-wide collaboration”, he commented.

In a session addressing the future of sustainable practices in building insulation, Alexandre Butté of ANDRITZ Laroche emphasized the importance of sustainable materials and collaboration among stakeholders. “The building industry faces unique sustainability challenges, but with innovation and eco-friendly materials, we can bridge the gap between goals and achievable practices”, he said.

Building a Sustainable Health Sector
Danielle van Horzen, Global Marketing Manager for Hygiene and Healthcare at SABIC, discussed advanced recycling solutions in the healthcare sector. Addressing the challenges of medical waste recycling, she stated, “A significant amount of medical waste is not contaminated, offering us opportunities to create circularity in healthcare.” She pointed to the potential for advanced chemical recycling to enable circular models, helping to tackle the pressing issue of sustainable medical waste management.

The day concluded with a session on the circular potential within healthcare. Kristien Depraetere, Sustainability Coordinator at UZ Leuven, outlined sustainable practices in hospitals, from waste reduction to advanced recycling in medical waste. “Healthcare can lead by example in the transition to circularity, yet we need practical and legislative support to address unique industry challenges”.

Visit to the European Commission
The third day of EDANA’s Sustainability Forum 2024 concluded with an insightful visit to the European Commission, offering attendees a unique opportunity to engage directly with policymakers and gain firsthand insights into the EU's sustainability agenda. Hosted at the Charlemagne Building, discussions centered on pivotal elements of the EU Green Deal, including the establishment of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), the scope and implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD), and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.

Featuring presentations from prominent EU officials like Vicenzo Gente and Werner Bosmans, attendees delved into how these regulations are shaping sustainability strategies across industries. Bridging policy and practice emerged as essential, reinforcing the forum’s dedication to aligning industry actions with current EU regulatory frameworks. The session offered a strong conclusion to the event, reinforcing a shared commitment to a sustainable future in collaboration with EU leaders and regulatory bodies.

ARISE IIP, the pan-African developer and operator of world-class industrial parks, has partnered with African Export-Import Bank (Afreximbank) and Rieter, the supplier of systems for manufacturing yarn from staple fibers in spinning mills. The unprecedented partnership will spearhead the “Africa Textile Renaissance Plan” – a transformative initiative aimed at revitalizing the continent’s textile sector. This ambitious project will leverage ARISE’s extensive network of industrial parks to support a new era of textile manufacturing in Africa.

In order to facilitate the implementation of the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan, Afreximbank, Arise IIP and Rieter AG signed a framework agreement on October 14, 2024. The framework agreement outlines the collaboration to establish 500 000 metric tons of African cotton transformation capacity over the next three to five years, supported by USD 5 billion in financing.

The Africa Textile Renaissance Plan aims to achieve the following key objectives:

• establish 500 000 metric tons of African cotton transformation capacity over the next three to five years, with potential expansion of an additional 500 000 metric tons,
• localize machine repair expertise in Africa,
• create up to 500 000 jobs,
• reduce Africa’s annual textile imports,
• boost exports to the US under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), focusing on full value addition within the continent and to export to the rest of the world and
• develop a strong financing structure to support capacity building.

Countries benefiting from the program will be selected based on criteria such as power and gas availability, and textile parks with standard infrastructure or equity contribution. Training centers will be established in selected countries to develop and improve skill levels.

The partnership aims to secure financing of textile projects, streamlining the process through:

• standardized loan documentation and security packages,
• expedited two-month application process and
• standardized business plan templates.

To foster long-term growth, Rieter has committed to gradually establishing a manufacturing presence in Africa subject to commercial viability, including the:

• setup of a repair and maintenance facility in ARISE’s industrial park in Benin,
• establishment of spare parts warehousing and
• phased introduction of machine assembly operations.

Gagan Gupta, CEO and Founder of ARISE IIP expressed his enthusiasm for the project: “The Africa Textile Renaissance Plan represents a significant milestone in the continent’s industrial development. I’m convinced that this initiative will not only boost local manufacturing and create thousands of jobs but also position Africa as a global leader in sustainable textile production.”

Prof. Benedict Oramah, President and Chairman of the Board of Directors of Afreximbank, stated that the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan is a “game-changer” for African trade. He remarked: “By transforming Africa’s cotton into high-value textile products, we are not only driving industrialization but also reducing dependence on imports while building a competitive export base. This partnership complements our ongoing efforts, such as the transformative change we are spearheading in Africa’s Cotton-4 plus (C4+) countries, alongside other partners. It underscores Afreximbank’s unwavering commitment to industrialization and export development.”

Thomas Oetterli, CEO Rieter Group, said: “We are thrilled to support this important initiative with our commitment, expertise and consulting knowledge. We are convinced that the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan marks an important starting point for the future development of the textile industry in Africa.”

Re-Matters Textile Recycling Solutions is an innovative start-up promoting circular value streams within the textile industry. The company announced a strategic partnership with COLOURizd, a pioneer in sustainable textile coloration technology.
 
This collaboration aims to support the transformation of the industry by combining COLOURizd' cutting-edge dyeing technology with Re-Matters' circular expertise to drive more sustainable practices throughout the supply chain.
 
Established in 2023, Re-Matters was created in response to mounting global environmental concerns and the rising need for sustainable textile solutions. Leveraging over 40 years of experience from their parent company, Ereks Blue Matters, Re-Matters offers engineering and consultancy services to the textile supply chain in assisting organizations in minimizing their environmental footprint through tailored solutions that emphasize reduction, reuse, recycling, and regeneration.
 
COLOURizd' innovative QuantumCOLOUR technology enables the coloring of recycled materials without the need for bleaching or color removal. This technology preserves the integrity of the fibers and enhances yarn properties, such as strength, reduced pilling, and decreased hairiness. The process uses just 1 liter of water per kilogram of yarn and produces zero wastewater, making it an ideal solution for companies looking to improve their sustainability profile.
 
Re-Matters and COLOURizd will exhibit at the upcoming Textile Exchange Conference in Pasadena, CA, USA, from October 28 to 31, 2024.
 
This year's theme, The Case for Change, will explore how integrating best practices for climate and nature into business operations can build resilience for the future. Both companies will showcase their innovative solutions and discuss their collaborative efforts to promote a more sustainable textile industry.

On the occasion of World Cotton Day 2024, Cotonea presented comprehensive CO2 and energy analyses of a total of 460 fabrics for the first time. Unlike conventional life cycle assessments, the brand analyzes its entire value chain from the cotton plant to the finished fabric and measures energy consumption and associated CO₂ emissions in detail. This enables comprehensive transparency and creates comparability.

“Our analyses and the consistent use of renewable energies along the entire supply chain show that some of our fabrics still act as CO2 sinks even after finishing. This is a clear signal of our commitment to environmental protection,” says Roland Stelzer, Managing Director of the long-established company Elmer & Zweifel and founder of the Cotonea brand.

Precise data
Cotonea examined the CO₂ and energy footprint for a total of 460 different fabrics so precisely that even differences in colors, such as yellow or black, could be determined exactly. Only the energy consumption for the yarn dyeing required for a few fabrics and means of transportation such as trucks, ships and trains as well as the assessment of primary energy sources are based on average values. “Instead of blanket CO₂ footprints or LCAs, we at Cotonea document exactly how our fabrics are manufactured and how much CO₂ and energy are consumed in the individual production stages,” emphasizes Stelzer.

Some fabrics act as CO₂ absorbers even after finishing. This is partly due to the natural CO2-binding properties of cotton fibers in organic cultivation and partly due to the use of hydropower and solar systems in the production facilities.

Advanced technology for comprehensive sustainability
For the analysis, Cotonea, with the support of the Industrieverband Veredelung - Garne - Gewebe - Technische Textilien e.V. (IVGT), used the “Umberto” life cycle assessment software, in which all relevant steps of the production process have been modeled and mapped. The calculations comply with ISO standards 14040 and 14044 for life cycle analysis (LCA). Since the end of 2012, Cotonea has provided items with a product passport that shows the individual production steps. In 2020, the organic cotton brand contributed its supply chain expertise to the “Textile Trust” blockchain project by IBM and Kaya & Kato, which was supported by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development.

Rohit Aggarwal will take over the position of CEO as of 1 September 2024.
Outgoing Chief Executive Officer Stephan Sielaff will leave the company as of August 31, 2024, by mutual agreement with the Supervisory Board.

Transforming old textiles into new, high-quality materials on a large scale – that is the subject of a new innovation project by eeden, the Textile Logistics Center (CTL) at the Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences and the Fraunhofer IML, and Hohenstein.

The project aims to promote a circular textile economy through technological and logistical optimizations. eeden's innovative fiber-to-fiber recycling process will be further developed to efficiently process textile waste from laundries. Additionally, logistics will be restructured, from collection to recycling, to ensure a resource-conserving and efficient supply of this material stream. With a total investment of over €625,000, the project is co-financed by the Ministry for the Environment, Nature Conservation and Transport of the State of North Rhine-Westphalia and the European Union as part of the Green Economy in NRW innovation competition.

Hohenstein and eeden jointly conduct analytical tests on used textiles to accurately determine the properties of the textile waste after various cleaning cycles.

Subsequently, the CTL, supported by eeden, will develop a concept for the efficient procurement of raw materials and their integration into a sustainable business structure.

Finally, the new process will be validated by eeden on a technical scale. By 2026, the close collaboration between eeden, the Center Textile Logistics (CTL) and Hohenstein aims to promote textile circularity and make a significant contribution to reducing textile waste.

The current European Football Championships 2024 in Germany will be played on natural turf, which is very costly to maintain, does not tolerate high frequency of use and has a limited service life of only 6 months in some cases. Artificial turf is easier to maintain and correspondingly popular. In Germany, there are estimated to be more than 5,000 artificial turf pitches and as many as 25,500 across the EU. The drawback: the enormous annual emission of microplastics in the form of infill material, the high CO2 impact and the not environmentally friendly disposal. Researchers in Aachen presented a sustainable alternative: BioTurf is a new artificial turf system made from bio-based polymers that no longer requires polymer infill material!

"Every year, around 500 kilograms of plastic granules are produced per artificial turf pitch, which have to be refilled as infill. This also corresponds to the amount that potentially enters the environment as microplastics per sports pitch," explains Dr Claudia Post from TFI. With an estimated 25,000 artificial turf pitches in the EU, artificial turf in Europe alone produces 12,750 tonnes of microplastics that end up in the environment every year! The TFI - Institut für Bodensysteme an der RWTH Aachen e.V., Institute for Research, Testing and Certification in Europe for Indoor Building Products, has developed the innovative artificial turf system together with the ITA (Institute for Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University) and in collaboration with the company Morton Extrusionstechnik (MET), a specialist in artificial turf fibres.

"New artificial turf pitches will be phased out by 2031 at the latest due to the ban on plastic granules. Even now, artificial turf pitches with infill material are no longer being subsidised," says Dr Claudia Post. For grassroots sports, clubs, cities and local authorities, converting their existing artificial turf pitches will be a mammoth task in the coming years, as artificial turf pitches have to be replaced every 10-15 years. With BioTurf, an environmentally friendly alternative is now available! The surface can be played on like any other, whether running, passing or kicking. Short, heavily crimped blades support longer blades and this simple approach increases playing comfort. BioTurf fulfils all quality requirements and standards for the highest footballing demands.

"BioTurf is an innovative, holistic solution," emphasises Dirk Hanuschik from TFI. "We use rapeseed oil and agricultural waste that does not compete with food production. BioTurf is also almost completely recyclable".
This is in stark contrast to conventional artificial turf, which can currently only be thermally utilised, i.e. burned to generate heat.

As BioTurf does not require the traditional latex process at all, the energy-intensive drying process can be dispensed with, which has a positive effect on the price. Latex is also difficult to recycle. In contrast, BioTurf uses the new thermobonding technology. Here, the thermoplastic pile yarns are thermally fused to the backing. Further development steps still need to be taken in the endeavour to develop a 100% mono-material artificial turf, as a few percent polypropylene still needs to be processed in the backing in addition to the polyethylene fibre material in order to protect it during thermobonding. However, this does not hinder its recyclability.

The Supervisory Board of Lenzing Group has appointed Rohit Aggarwal as a new member of the Management Board of Lenzing Group. He will assume responsibility for the fiber division during the third quarter. After the departure of Stephan Sielaff, Aggarwal will take over the position of CEO of Lenzing Group.

Rohit Aggarwal has a sound understanding of the strategic development of international markets and the establishment of efficient management teams through global management positions in Europe, the USA and Asia. Thanks to his experience in the global textile and fiber market, he is well versed with Lenzing's core business in all its facets, both in terms of content and geography.

Stephan Sielaff, CEO of Lenzing Group, will leave the company at the latest when his contract expires at the end of March 2025 and devote himself to new tasks.