From the Sector

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber, yarn and fabrics to finished sewn products, issued the following statements from NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas and several U.S. textile executives in support of President Trump’s order closing de minimis for China, effective May 2.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas

“We are grateful to President Trump and his administration for closing the destructive de minimis loophole that has allowed unsafe and illegal Chinese goods—including goods made with forced labor—to flood the U.S. market duty-free and largely unchecked for years.

“This loophole, largely exploited by Chinese e-commerce giants and others to skirt U.S. tariffs, regulations and laws, has contributed to the closure of 28 textile mills in the past 22 months.

“The U.S. textile industry is a critical and strategic sector, supplying more than 8,000 products to the U.S. military, as well as industrial and commercial markets, while supporting local communities across country, and employing 471,000 workers nationwide.

“Today’s action by the administration is an important step forward to help rebalance the playing field for American manufacturers, preserve good-paying American manufacturing jobs, spur more investment and innovation in manufacturing facilities here at home, and close the backdoor to China once and for all.

“We urge the administration and Congress to move swiftly to end de minimis for commercial shipments from all countries to prevent circumvention and to make sure Made in China products cannot enter the United States through third countries. The U.S. textile industry stands ready to assist the administration as it continues its work to end the de minimis exemption and implement this critical provision.”

Anderson Warlick, Chairman and CEO of Parkdale Mills
“The de minimis loophole has impacted our businesses and our workforce significantly. Roughly half of de minimis shipments contain textile and apparel products which get an unfair competitive advantage at our expense. Illegal products like fentanyl and products made with Uyghur forced labor come into the United States under the de minimis exemption, causing economic damage and impacting the lives of many Americans.

“I am pleased to see President Trump take action to eliminate de minimis for products from China, and I encourage the administration to end de minimis for imports from all countries so we textile manufacturers can compete on a more level playing field.”

Amy Bircher Bruyn, CEO & Founder of MMI Textiles
“The de minimis loophole has wreaked havoc on the U.S. textile industry by enabling duty-free access for massive volumes of fast fashion imports, largely from China. This policy undermines American manufacturers who play a critical role in our national security and industrial resilience.

“At MMI Textiles, we employ 39 direct team members and support an additional 21 indirect workers — including a printer of camouflage patterns who operates exclusively within our NC facility, summer interns who represent the next generation of textile leaders, and specialized industry consultants. More broadly, through our robust contract manufacturing network, we directly support hundreds of jobs across the U.S. supply chain. Our company is a catalyst for employment and innovation in domestic textiles, producing essential components for U.S. military and law enforcement applications.

“The U.S. textile industry is vital to our nation’s industrial base. We supply the U.S. military, and during the COVID-19 pandemic, our industry pivoted rapidly to manufacture lifesaving PPE for frontline workers. Despite these contributions, the current de minimis threshold has created an unfair advantage for foreign competitors, particularly China, by allowing them to bypass duties and flood the market with underpriced goods — at the direct expense of American jobs.

“I am encouraged by President Trump’s commitment to ending de minimis eligibility for Chinese imports. I urge the administration to move swiftly to eliminate this loophole for all imports and restore a level playing field that protects U.S. manufacturing, jobs, and national security.”

Ron Sytz, CEO of Beverly Knits
“I am truly thankful to President Trump for closing the de minimis loophole for Chinese imports. This loophole has been devastating to my family’s 44-year-old textile manufacturing business in Gastonia, North Carolina, forcing us to lay off 175 workers and significantly reduce capacity in our plants. We can’t compete against subsidized imports from China that enter the U.S. duty free through the de minimis loophole. With the administration’s action, our company which provides hundreds of jobs and supports our community and the U.S. economy, will once again have a level playing field that will allow us to expand, invest and hire more associates here in the United States.”

On Tuesday 15 April, EURATEX (the European Apparel and Textile Confederation) and FTTH (Fédération Tunisienne du Textile et de l’Habillement) formalised a new chapter in Euro-Mediterranean collaboration by signing a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) in Monastir, Tunisia. The agreement reinforces the commitment of both parties to closer industrial cooperation, with a strong focus on sustainability, investment, and trade integration under the revised Pan-Euro-Mediterranean Convention.

The signature ceremony took place at the Monastir Technopole in the presence of senior representatives, including the Governor of Monastir, the Tunisian Minister of Industry, the EU Ambassador to Tunisia, and business leaders from both regions. It marked a significant step towards establishing a structured dialogue and actionable cooperation between two key textile industries, in the context of global supply chain shifts and increasing demand for sustainable production.

“Europe and Tunisia share a long-standing partnership. While our systems may differ, our industries are deeply complementary. In a time of regulatory transformation and increasing environmental ambitions, working together is essential,” said EURATEX President Mario Jorge Machado. “This MoU offers a practical framework to improve competitiveness, drive innovation, and reinforce the resilience of our shared textile ecosystem.”

The agreement also reflects a broader vision to revitalise and reinforce industrial partnerships across the Mediterranean. In an evolving geopolitical and economic context, Tunisia stands out as a trusted and strategically located partner. Deepening regional value chains, reducing dependency on distant sourcing, and fostering nearshoring solutions are not only economic imperatives, but also critical components of building a more sustainable and resilient European textile industry. The MoU with FTTH embodies this ambition by promoting a Mediterranean model of cooperation rooted in proximity, trust, and shared economic interests.

The Tunisian textile and apparel sector is a cornerstone of the national economy, accounting for over 160,000 jobs and more than 1,600 active companies. In 2024, Tunisia exported €2.5 billion in textiles and clothing to the EU, confirming its strategic position as a nearshoring partner. The MoU supports Tunisia’s ambition to become a modern, circular and competitive textile hub, while encouraging investment and industrial synergies with European partners.

As the European textile sector undergoes profound transformation, reinforced cooperation with neighbouring countries like Tunisia is essential to shape a more sustainable and strategic regional supply chain.

On the occasion of World Water Day, Jeanologia reaffirms its commitment to dehydrating and detoxifying the textile industry by presenting its Ecological Profit and Loss Account—a pioneering report that quantifies the positive impact of its innovative solutions in terms of water savings and emissions reduction.

The figures for 2024: 20,875,400 cubic meters of polluted water saved and a reduction of 98,4 million kilograms of CO₂ emissions—a contribution equivalent to the annual water consumption of a city the size of Valencia and the carbon capture in a year by a forest of 16,000 hectares, the same size as 22,400 football fields. This means millions of liters of wastewater have been prevented from reaching rivers and seas, and millions of kilograms of CO₂ from polluting the atmosphere.

Water scarcity: the textile industry’s challenge and the urgency to act
The fashion industry, one of the most water-intensive and waste-generating sectors, faces a critical challenge. Each year, it is estimated to use 93 billion cubic meters of water and generate 20% of the world’s wastewater, mostly due to processes like dyeing and garment finishing. This scenario highlights the urgent need for transformation.

The global water crisis demands concrete solutions. Jeanologia has proven that it is possible to produce fashion responsibly, significantly reducing environmental impact without compromising quality, authenticity, creativity, or profitability.

The denim revolution is driven by innovation. Since its founding three decades ago, Jeanologia has developed a integrated ecosystem of technologies that enable zero discharge and minimal water usage. Among its specialized solutions for the denim industry are:

• Laser: A pioneering technology that replaces traditional abrasion methods, eliminating the use of water and harmful chemicals.
• eFlow: Uses nanobubbles to transport chemicals precisely to fabrics, minimizing water usage and ensuring zero discharge.
• Airwash Tech (G2 Indra): Replaces conventional water-based garment washing with air, significantly reducing both water and chemical consumption.
• H2Zero: A closed-loop water recycling system that recovers up to 95% of water used during production.

Jeanologia has implemented these technologies in over 80 countries, working with leading global manufacturers to completely transform how jeans are made. Sustainability in the textile sector is no longer a promise—it’s a measurable reality.

Since its founding, Jeanologia has been on a mission to transform the textile industry into a more ethical, sustainable, and efficient model. The company works closely with brands, retailers, and suppliers on this transformative journey, offering disruptive technologies, innovative software, and a new operational model. Their groundbreaking solutions, including laser technology, G2 ozone, Dancing Box, e-flow, H2Zero, and ColorBox, have redefined garment design and finishing standards, eliminating polluting processes and significantly reducing the use of water, energy, and chemicals. Thanks to these advancements, Jeanologia has saved millions of liters of water and eliminated harmful substances, turning its vision of a truly sustainable textile industry into reality.

In 2025, Jeanologia celebrates its 30th anniversary, marking a legacy of three decades of sustainable innovation. From the introduction of its laser technology in 1999, which revolutionized denim finishing, to its current challenge of implementing a revolutionary sustainable garment dyeing process, the Spanish company has pioneered solutions that not only benefit the environment but also optimize operational costs. Looking ahead, Jeanologia remains committed to creating an eco-efficient and ethical textile future, encouraging all industry stakeholders to join its Mission Zero initiative: dehydrate and detoxify the textile industry. No more water and toxic chemicals used in garment finishing around the world.

On 19-20 February 2025, social partners from the Italian textile and fashion industry met in Rome to deepen their understanding of the upcoming EU legislations and their impact on the Italian textile industry, as well as to further discuss the next step in their effort for a more broad and effective social dialogue. In the context of the EU co-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry, the meeting was also the occasion to draft the Rome Declaration: a joint statement to emphasise the social partners’ strong commitment to work together.

The meeting in Rome brought together representatives of the Italian textile industry, including the Italian employer association (Confindustria Moda), national trade unions (Femca-Cisl, Filctem-Cgil and Uiltec-Uil), regional clusters and companies to discuss the future of the industry. Together, they discussed the proposal for a sectoral industrial policy strategy to present to the Italian Government and the EU Commission for the support, consolidation and development of the textile-clothing supply chain.

The Rome Declaration includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together for a more competitive and fair Italian textile industry. The Declaration also calls upon the Italian Government and the European Union to support the upcoming transformation of the textile and clothing industries, technology and skills upgrades, regional development and just transition.

Says Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary stated that “the Italian textile industry employs around 300,000 workers, or 24% of the European workforce in the textile and clothing sector, making it the largest in Europe. In a context of numerous challenges for the European textile industry, such as unfair globalization, green and digital transition, social dialogue is a real lever for improving working conditions and job security. We are committed alongside our Italian partners to a resilient and attractive textile industry in Italy”.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “Italy represents 36% of the total European textile and fashion industry; it is critically important therefore to maintain a strong Italian textile industry, which can be a benchmark for other countries. Combining quality, creativity and innovation is the recipe for success. This requires a dynamic company spirit, where employers and employees work hand in hand.”

The StitchTogether National Seminar in Poland delivers the Warsaw Declaration to enhance social dialogue for the Polish textile industry

On 6 December 2024, social partners from the Polish textiles industry adopted the Warsaw Declaration, a joint commitment to work on the competitiveness of their industry. The declaration is the outcome of a 2 day meeting, organised under the EU co-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry. The meeting in Warsaw brought together representatives of the Polish textile industry, including employer associations, trade unions, education institutes and the government to discuss the future of the industry.

Poland has a long and proud tradition in textiles and clothing manufacturing, with 130,000 people employed in the sector, and 20,000 companies of which the vast majority are SMEs. But the sector is struggling due to tough global competition and price pressures. In this context, the Polish textile and clothing social partners are united in ensuring the sector can successful face the digital and green transition, while remaining competitive and resilient, with decent jobs for all.

The Warsaw Declaration includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together, but asking support of the Polish government to upgrade industrial strategies, making the textile industry more attractive with a qualified and trained workforce.

“In times of transition social dialogue is more vital than ever, employers and trade unions need to work together to anticipate the change and prepare for the future in this case to more sustainable textiles and clothing production in Poland. It is essential that the transition is a Just Transition that leaves no worker behind, and we want the transition to safeguard jobs in the sector and create new jobs, which must be decent jobs with decent pay. The transition requires support and we call on the Polish government to work with the social partners for a new sectoral industrial policy to support the sector and good industrial jobs,’’ says Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “the incoming Polish presidency of the EU is a unique opportunity to shape a Clean Industrial Deal that will strengthen the competitiveness of our companies. As our Polish textile companies clearly expressed during the event, they want to see changes on the energy costs and fair competition, instead of adding new regulations.”

ReHubs announced becoming a strategic partner for the Textiles Recycling Expo that is being launched by AMI in Brussels on June 4-5, 2025. This event will serve as a platform for industry leaders and stakeholders to come together to advance textile waste recycling.

The Textiles Recycling Expo will showcase innovative developments and industry leading exhibitors working towards solving the issue of textile waste. It will also boast a high-level conference featuring industry experts, innovators and stakeholders presenting valuable insights and perspectives on the textile recycling industry.

With extensive experience in organising events for the global plastics industry, AMI is now expanding its reach with the Textiles Recycling Expo. Partnering with ReHubs – a partnership-based collaboration hub for textile-to-textile recycling in Europe – this alliance combines AMI’s event management strengths with ReHubs’ extensive network and commitment to accelerating textile recycling. ReHubs will contribute to supporting the development of the conference programme, bringing valuable insights from within the industry.

By joining forces, AMI and ReHubs are combining their strengths to create an event that fosters meaningful connections, knowledge exchange, and industry-wide impact. This can establish the Textiles Recycling Expo as a leading event for advancing textiles recycling in Europe.

ReHub’s Chris Deloof commented on joining forces with AMI: “ReHubs is delighted to collaborate with AMI on this Expo for textiles recycling. This event provides a unique opportunity for the entire textiles recycling ecosystem to come together, exchange knowledge, and advance the adoption of recycled fibres and circular business models.”

AMI’s Zied Chetoui commented on the value of collaborative action with ReHubs: “The Textiles Recycling Expo represents a crucial step forward for the industry as we work collectively to build a circular future for textiles and we believe collaborating on this event with ReHubs will bring significant value to the industry through empowering stakeholders from across the value chain.”

TESTEX, a provider of textile and leather testing and certification, has joined the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) as a Corporate Member. This membership strengthens their commitment to advancing the global textile industry through collaboration and innovation.

Mr. Christian Schindler, Director General of ITMF: “ITMF is delighted to welcome TESTEX as its latest member. Testing and certifying is an integral part of the textile value chain. It is important for ITMF to have TESTEX actively participate in ITMF. This step does not only strengthen ITMF’s position as a unique international platform for the global textile value chain, it also helps ITMF and its members to discuss topics related to testing and certification in close partnership with the leading testing and certifying organization”.

Mr. Marc Sidler, Group CMO of TESTEX: “By becoming a member of ITMF, TESTEX is joining an organisation that brings together the entire textile value chain from fibre producers to manufacturers of garments and home textiles. Having access to the ITMF’s publications, statistics, and surveys as well as events like workshops, conferences, and webinars enables us to better understand the global dynamics of the textile value chain as well as to strengthen the network with associations and companies around the world.”

The Lenzing Group is working with the non-profit organisation RTDS Group and 13 other partners from research and industry to promote the scaling of lyocell filaments as part of the CELLFIL project. Co-funded by the EU with EUR 6.9 million, the project aims to drive the reformation of the textile industry towards greater sustainability and a circular economy.

The Austrian organisation RTDS has launched the CELLFIL project with great vision. In close cooperation with Lenzing Group, which is at the technical helm of the project, CELLFIL aims to reform the textile industry. The centrepiece of the project is the sustainable and robust production of lyocell filaments. By optimising the entire fabric production process and its intermediate processing steps, the aim is to replace synthetic fibers with environmentally friendly lyocell filaments in recyclable end applications. This approach aims to develop and utilise alternative raw material sources for textiles. The realisation of these goals is crucial for scaling up lyocell filament production and promoting a circular economy that represents an environmentally friendly alternative to the currently dominant fossil-based synthetic filaments.

CELLFIL is part of the EU research and innovation program Horizon Europe and is supported by 15 partners from eight different countries. EUR 6.9 million from the European Union's Horizon Europe program has been made available for the implementation of this initiative. The European Commission has presented a visionary roadmap for the future of textiles, aiming for a circular economy in which all textiles on the EU market are durable, repairable and recyclable. This underlines Europe's commitment to sustainable innovation and a greener future in the textile sector.

The 2nd Textiles Innovation Conference held by KARL MAYER North America proved to be a complete success. The trade event took place from June 25 to 27, 2024 at the headquarters of the KARL MAYER GROUP subsidiary in Greensboro, North Carolina. The conference boasted a turnout with over 200 attendees, exhibitors, and keynote speakers. While the majority hailed from many states across the USA, the event also attracted a global audience, including participants from Italy, Canada, Mexico, and other countries. The central theme: the importance of textiles made in the USA, their value and influence on global markets.

The conference brought together leading industry brands and academic institutions to delve into the future of product development and sustainability in textiles. KM.ON, Black Swan, Meta, and Supreme shared a convergence of ideas, challenges, and groundbreaking advancements shaping the textile landscape. NC State and Kent State universities highlighted their efforts in developing local talent and enhancing research capabilities to meet industry demand for regional supply chains. Manufacturing Solutions Center, Southern Textile Association, and AFFOA (Advanced Functional Fabrics of America) explored research capabilities and technology testing to foster funding opportunities and generate ideas for the future.

The recipe for success also included a lecture program. The conference kicked off with a keynote speech from New Balance, a brand that empowers people through sport and craftsmanship. New Balance MADE U.S., their premium collection manufactured domestically, reflects their commitment to quality and community impact. On day two Kenny Wilsey, Sourcing Director at Dillard’s, shared his expertise to ensure adherence to quality standards and social compliance requirements for private label brands. To complete the speaker series, Allison Hicks, Lead Knit Engineer at Under Armour, inspired attendees with her innovative approach to performance footwear, apparel, and accessories.

Important topics at the conference were sustainability and digitalization: Unifi showcased high-performance fibers made from recyclable materials and pre- or post-consumer waste management initiatives. KM.ON, the digital solution company of the KARL MAYER GROUP, displayed artificial intelligence applications for quality control, supply chain optimization, and predictive maintenance for warp knitting and knitwear production.

The Textile Innovation Conference program was rounded out by an exhibition of selected textile supply chain partners. These business partners supplemented the information about innovation presented in the lectures and performance demonstrations of the latest STOLL flat knitting and KARL MAYER warp knitting machines.

TrusTrace, a SaaS company with a platform for product traceability and supply chain compliance in fashion and retail, announced the launch of its upgraded AI-powered Forced Labor Prevention (FLP) Solution, which will help brands proactively map out supply chains, screen it for risk, and efficiently gather evidence for regulatory compliance.

The Forced Labor Prevention solution combines the power of AI to manage large quantities of data from complex supply chains with scalable collection of primary data per purchase order, which is screened and validated for risk, ensuring brands have validated evidence at a product and shipment level.

The solution collects primary data directly from suppliers to ensure detailed and reliable information about facilities, products, and materials. The primary data collected through the TrusTrace solution is specific to the context of the traced products, contrary to solutions leveraging third party data, which can introduce large quantities of irrelevant information from various sources, creating ‘noise’ that can obscure critical insights and quickly become unmanageable. TrusTrace has traced more than two million purchase orders to date and has more than 55,000 suppliers and facilities mapped globally, demonstrating the capacity to automate the collection of primary data at very large scale.

The data is proactively screened for risk against the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) entity list, and the solution can integrate with any relevant risk screening database.

AI-Powered Chain of Custody Creation and Document Collection drives speed, accuracy and cost savings, making it quick and easy to gain supply chain visibility and stay on top of documentation for compliance. The FLP solution can classify, extract, and translate large volumes of documents in over 100 languages, facilitating the creation of a digital chain of custody, and transforming traditionally time-consuming manual processes, increasing efficiency, and reducing the likelihood of human error.

15 brands worldwide are already using TrusTrace for forced labor prevention, including Vera Bradley, who see proactive supply chain traceability and data management as key in achieving their ESG commitments.