From the Sector

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel Europe (Freudenberg) has expanded its facility in Sant´Omero, Italy, into a competence center for finishing and coating apparel interlinings. The Competence Center was officially opened on May 26, 2023.

The Freudenberg team in Sant´Omero has over 35 years of expertise in the manufacture of high-quality interlinings for menswear: base materials produced at the site are finished and coated to customers’ specifications. With the new competence center, the facility will now focus on coating and finishing all nonwoven, woven and weft apparel interlinings in Freudenberg’s portfolio. Customers throughout Europe will enjoy the advantages of greater manufacturing flexibility and a more diverse product offering.

Freudenberg installed the necessary finishing and coating technology at the new competence center in Italy over the last few months, building a new production hall for this machinery and equipment. Until recently, the bulk of interlinings were coated and finished in Weinheim, Germany. The facility there will now operate as a further competence center specializing in the production of base materials for apparel interlinings.

In addition to establishing the competence center, Freudenberg has also improved logistics. A new central warehouse in Italy now supplies customers in Southern Europe. It complements the central warehouse in Germany that delivers goods to customers in Northern Europe. As a result, Freudenberg is shortening both delivery routes and delivery times.

Lenzing Group, a global producer of wood-based specialty fibers, is celebrating the 40th anniversary of its biorefinery and co-product brand LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased. The brand was first introduced on May 4, 1983, and has since become one of the leading and most trusted biobased acetic acid providers.

Over the past 40 years, LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, which has a reduced carbon footprint that is 85% lower than that of fossil-based acetic acid, has continued to gain trust and support from customers. Specialty chemical company Evonik, and food production company Speyer & Grund Group, have been incorporating LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased in the production of their products since 1983. LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased has also been in high demand from the hygiene industry during the COVID-19 pandemic as an all-purpose cleaning agent in conventional and green products.

Pioneering a carbon neutral future in the biorefinery segment with a new offering
To mark the important occasion, Lenzing will introduce its first carbon neutral LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased to meet the growing sustainability needs of industries which predominately rely on fossil-based materials. Similar to the standard LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, the carbon neutral LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased is produced using sustainably sourced beech wood as a universal replacement for non-renewable raw materials such as crude oil. By calculating, reducing and offsetting emissions during production processes, this expansion will create a more sustainable supply chain with highly functional products across various industries. From now on, Lenzing customers across the food, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, chemical and textile industries will be able to choose between carbon neutral and reduced carbon footprint acetic acid products.

Advancing circularity and carbon neutrality through efficient use of valuable resources
Lenzing’s biorefinery concept ensures that 100% of wood components are used to produce pulp for Lenzing’s botanic fibers, biorefinery products, as well as bioenergy, which is used to power Lenzing’s facilities. This makes Lenzing’s biorefinery sites almost fully energy self-sufficient to remain as carbon neutral as possible. To ensure a low carbon footprint, rail transportation is the preferred means for transporting LENZING™ biorefinery products, with trucks being leveraged in regions where rail transportation is not available.

Together with ClimatePartner, a recognized global leader in the design, development, and delivery of corporate climate action programs, Lenzing strives to reduce carbon emissions to net-zero through a mix of higher production efficiencies, use of renewable energy sources, low-carbon materials, and the dedicated support of an external nature-based carbon removal project. For instance, to offset remaining carbon emissions that cannot be reduced, Lenzing works with ClimatePartner to support and finance the switch to biomass as an energy source at a ceramic factory in Kitambar in northeastern Brazil. Using natural waste materials, like coconut shells, as renewable biomass for its energy production, the factory is able to produce roof tiles in a more climate-friendly way while saving on carbon emissions. Besides contributing to the fuel switch, the project also helps to reduce the deforestation rate in Brazil and avoid methane emissions that could result from the uncontrolled rotting of biomass.

Renewcell was announced winner of the Sustainable Textile Innovation category of the annual Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards in London. Drapers, the influential British fashion industry magazine, highlighted that CIRCULOSE® is already in use by global fashion brands, and will continue to a solution for the textile to textile recycling within the fashion industry.

“It is an honor to receive the Sustainable Textile Innovation award from such a prestigious fashion industry publication. Drapers clearly supports the development of solutions the fashion industry so desperately needs, as well as connecting the textile and apparel industry. CIRCULOSE® makes fashion circular by producing a dissolving pulp using 100% textile waste providing the same level of handfeel and quality as virgin materials with no compromise to make fashion circular,” says Patrik Lundström, CEO of Renewcell.

In November 2022, Renewcell opened the first industrial scale recycling facility in Sundsvall, Sweden with production of CIRCULOSE®. In partnership with leading global brands like H&M, Inditex, PVH, Levi’s, and others, Renewcell plans to grow its capacity to 360,000 metric tonnes of annual production by 2030.

B.I.G. Yarns unveils its new “SustainableYarns” platform, with Clerkenwell Design Week visitors the first to be invited to get on board and focus on what matters most for the design and manufacture of sustainable soft floorings.

The expert in polyamide (PA) 1 step 3 ply yarns offers a range of options for manufacturers to introduce sustainable yarns into carpet solutions and reach sustainability targets faster and more efficiently.

The Sustainable Yarns range creates opportunities to design with recycled content yarn (EqoCycle), to work with renewable resources (EqoBalance), and, following the launch of new polyamide 6 (PA6) EqoYarn at Clerkenwell Design Week, to also leverage the low-impact value chain.

New addition EqoYarn is a new low-impact PA6 carpet yarn based on the most recent innovations in polymer production, which enable yarn manufacturers to lower their carbon footprint by nearly 50% and give carpet manufacturers more options to reduce their impact.

For its EqoYarn Bulk Continuous Filament (BCF) production process, B.I.G. Yarns has selected the few best-in-class partners that have made major steps forward in terms of sustainability, and reduced their greenhouse gas emissions thanks to continuous investments in process efficiency, green energy, heat optimization and waste reduction. The result is EqoYarn with a carbon footprint of 4 kg CO2 eq/kg yarns, which is a CO2 reduction of up to 50% compared to conventional PA yarns.

EqoBalance PA6 yarns enable customers to reach an even higher CO2 reduction of up to 75%. Manufactured with polymers made from renewable resources such as organic waste from cooking oil instead of virgin or fossil feedstock, these yarns have a carbon footprint of 1.98 kg CO2 eq./ kg yarns. They help carpet manufacturers to create products with an extremely low carbon footprint.

EqoCycle PA6 yarns are fully recyclable and incorporate 75% recycled content originating from recycled and regenerated PA6 granules. With a carbon footprint of 4.64 kg CO2 eq./ kg yarns, they deliver the same high-quality performance of virgin PA6 yarn with the benefit of 37% CO2 reduction. EqoCycle yarns offer carpet manufacturers a sustainable alternative to help reduce the ecological footprint of their products and move towards a circular economy without jeopardizing the end-product quality.

In addition to the different CO2-reducing options, B.I.G. Yarns’ customers can access an unlimited colour range to elevate their designs. Its BCF technology for polyamide yarns, twisted and heat-set yarns, one-colour to multi-colour, between 650 and 15000 dTex, along with its colour studio, are available to support their creation of customised collections.

adidas announced it will begin selling some of the remaining inventory of adidas YEEZY products, with an initial release end of May 2023. A significant amount will be donated to selected organizations working to combat discrimination and hate, including racism and antisemitism. These include but are not limited to the Anti-Defamation League (ADL) and the Philonise & Keeta Floyd Institute for Social Change.  

The release will mark the first time that products have been available to consumers since adidas terminated the YEEZY partnership in October 2022. The products will be existing designs and designs initiated in 2022 for sale in 2023.  Additional releases of existing inventory are currently under consideration, but timing is yet to be determined. Today’s announcement has no immediate impact on the company’s current financial guidance for 2023.

Since terminating the YEEZY partnership in October, adidas has been exploring multiple scenarios for the potential use of the existing YEEZY inventory. The process involved seeking feedback and listening to a diverse group of employees, organizations, communities, and consumers for how to responsibly manage the existing product. The company went ahead with already committed production orders after the partnership was terminated. This was done to help protect its supply chain partners from being negatively affected by cancellations.

As a global provider of sustainable woodfibre products, Sappi will be showcasing its solutions for the garment industry under the theme “Fashion meets Forest” at ITMA 2023 – with sublimation papers and its dissolving wood pulp, used for the production of garment fibres under the “Verve” brand name.

How can the woodfibre industry support a more sustainable garments market? Sappi is eager to answer this question at the ITMA and has created a “knowledge trail” for visitors to explore under the motto “Fashion meets Forest”. Visitors to the stand can follow the journey from wood via cellulose and fibre to the finished yarn and the printed garment.

Sublimation papers: Expanded production capacity in Carmignano
Sappi’s Transjet sublimation papers stand for fast, uniform ink transfer and minimal ink consumption. As a premium supplier, Sappi is constantly striving to meet its customers’ needs. So, at this year’s ITMA, various sublimation papers with optimised qualitative properties will be on show.

Sappi maintains the high quality of its coated Transjet and uncoated Basejet sublimation papers by regularly investing in new, state-of-the-art technologies. At the end of April, a new warehouse has been inaugurated at the Carmignano mill in Italy. In the next month’s, Sappi will further invest in two new converting machines with a width of 1.9 meters and 3.2 meters as well as in a fully automated packaging line. All the investments will support the company’s vision of having a complete in-house solution for the sublimation industry, have a positive impact on CO2 emission, satisfy the increased demand of their customers as well as further improve lead times.
 
“Verve” dissolving wood pulp for high-quality textiles
Sappi will also be showcasing its dissolving pulp (DP) brand “Verve”. DP provides the feedstock raw material toward producing rayon fibres such as Lyocell and viscose and further into yarns and fabrics. Textiles produced from wood based cellulosic fibres are noted for their breathability, colour fastness, softness, drape, absorbency and biodegradability. In addition to the garment industry, dissolving pulp is also used in various household and pharmaceutical products.

A total of 20 European fashion and design schools took part in the 2nd “Fashioning Sustainability” competition organized by Freudenberg Performance Materials together with Macpi and Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, two co-branding partners in the textile industry.

Freudenberg invited talented young designers to create and submit their ideas for sustainable clothing. The initiative aims to show that sustainability is a key factor in the fashion industry.

Two of the most innovative outfits from each school were selected for the final round and presented to an international jury at the “Bagni Misteriosi” event location in Milan in May. Fashion design experts and opinion leaders as well as journalists were invited to select the most sustainable designs in the categories of “Technology” and “Design”.

The winners
First place in the “Technology” category went to Judith Marquant while the second to Jagoda Sokolowska, both students of the fashion school Esmod in Paris. Ilaria De Martino, from the fashion institute Modartech, Italy, and Xiaodan Liao from Polimoda, Italy, were awarded first and second place in the “Design” category. The first-place winners received €2,000, while the second places won €1,000.

All participants benefited from the platform to network with leading players in the garment industry and learn more about concrete steps for embracing sustainability. Creating true sustainability in the fashion industry means reducing the material flow of clothing, addressing both sustainable production and consumption.

Members of the Jury:
Cristiano Zanetti, Sales Director Italy, Freudenberg Performance Materials
Maurizio Cazzin, Male Modeller, Maison Giorgio Armani
Riccardo Bullio, Apparel Industrial Division Director, Dolce & Gabbana
Caterina Cuoghi, Industrial Director, Area NYC
Simone Bigi, Style and Product Office Manager FAY line, Gruppo TOD’S
Roberto Cibin, Model and Pattern Development Manager, Caruso
Bruno Landi, Sales Director, Vitale Barberis Canonico
Luisella Allegretti, Pattern Designer Boss MW Business Specialist, Hugo Boss
Eugenio Balordi, Product Manager, Maison Margiela
Ettore Pellegrini, Sales and Marketing Manager, Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia

Groz-Beckert will be represented at ITMA with its six product sectors and will showcase its various innovations. The presentations at the booth will be supported by augmented reality applications. This allows visitors to discover the products both live and virtually.

The Knitting product sector will be represented at the Groz-Beckert stand with its four product groups circular knitting, flat knitting, legwear and warp knitting. In the circular knitting segment, for example, two newly developed knitting systems will be on show which have been realized in collaboration with machine manufacturers. The developments focus on energy savings, extended cleaning intervals and increased process reliability.

In addition to the machines for weaving preparation, the Weaving product sector will present its recently expanded portfolio of technical weaving reeds. The new weaving reeds make it possible to supply customers who produce fabrics with high densities. The weaving reeds are used in the production of special fabrics, for example, in technical filtration, membrane technology, solar cells or touch screens.

Products and services for classic needling and hydroentanglement will be presented by the Felting (Nonwovens) product area. In the field of felting needles, visitors can look forward to two innovations: a new notch shape and the Groz-Beckert felting needle module. In the felting needle module, the needles are embedded as a module in a plastic mold for the first time. The needle modules are characterized by high deformation resistance and offer new dimensions in needle density.

For the production of tufted floor coverings such as carpets, bath mats or artificial turf, the Tufting product sector will be presenting its proven Gauge Part system.

Various new and further developments will also be shown by the Carding product area. For those interested in the nonwovens industry, for example, the world's finest Interlocking wire for reduced risk of crashis included. For customers of the spinning industry, the division will be presenting further developed stationary flats and revolving tops. The new revolving tops have been adapted to the processing of fine yarns, while the stationary flats have been provided with a new, resistant aluminum profile.

The Sewing product sector is focusing on the presentation of its special application needles, SANTM. The sewing machine needles of the SANTM series have been specially developed for demanding sewing operations – e.g. for sewing technical or finest textiles. The division will also be presenting its new Needle Finder. The Needle Finder is an interactive tool in the online customer portal that helps customers select the right needle.

After participating in industry trials, Renewcell and TextileGenesis™ have the intention to establish an agreement for full pulp-to-retail traceability for Renewcell’s CIRCULOSE® recycled raw material across the entire textile supply chain, announcing it at Challenge the Fabric (Milan, Italy).

Renewcell uses a patented process to breakdown and recycle cotton and other cellulosic textile waste, such as worn-out jeans and production scraps, to create CIRCULOSE®, a biodegradable raw material that can be used to create viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate and other man-made cellulosic fibers. These regenerated fibers are then spun into yarns, woven or knitted into fabrics before being cut and sewn into new high-quality textile products.
 
With TextileGenesis™, Renewcell will be able to share real-time digital traceability with its customers and supply chain partners.

• The platform uses digital tokens to ensure a secure chain of custody for all supply chain processes from raw materials to retail.
• The company’s “fiber-forwards” traceability captures real-time shipments; its Fibercoins™ digital tokens verify point of origin and eliminate “double counting” of sustainable materials.
• Its AI (augmented intelligence) engine verifies transactions between supply chain partners.  

 
Furthermore, TextileGenesis™ is already partnering with fiber producers including Lenzing AG, Eastman, and Birla Cellulose.

At ITMA 2023, XORELLA, a specialist in steam setting and conditioning equipment for yarns and fabrics, will launch XO AUTOMATION for the double door XO SELECT conditioning machine series, and XO SOLID, a new machine series to complement XO SMART, XO TREND and XO SELECT machines.

XO AUTOMATION
The new XO AUTOMATION system consists of roller conveyor systems for loading and unloading two-door XO Select conditioning machines. Additional pallet wrapping machine with a turntable, weighting station, label printer, safety fence and security system can complete the system. The XO Select controller and automation system can handle and store individual customer-specific material and packing programmes.  

XO SELECT and XO AUTOMATION are designed for yarn steaming on multiple pallet dimensions and heights up to 2,650mm. The linear material flow passing conveyor and steaming machine avoids any mix between steamed and un-steamed materials. XO AUTOMATION fills the gap between the XO automated moving platform and the fully automated transport system – from spinning hall to warehouse.

XO SOLID
The new cubical XO SOLID combines a high loading space of 1,800mm x 1,700mm x 4, 000mm (H x W x L) through double row pin trolleys or pallets for easy manual loading of six units on floor level without a pit or platform. XO SOLID is therefore designed for installations on upper floor levels. The new frame design combines all necessary components factory preinstalled on a single frame, for easy ‘plug and play’ installation at the customer site. Additional smaller steamer dimensions for two and four loading units are also at the planning stage.

The new XO SOLID incorporates all the renowned features of XORELLA machines based on the long term experience in high temperature dyeing vessel production of FONG’s, including:

• A Siemens controller with OPC UA interface and XO data tool for batch storage.
• A XO EcoPac waterless claw pump or two-stage water ring vacuum pump.
• A high energy efficient accumulator for steam, electric and combined heating.
• Vessel and piping in world-class stainless steel.
• European key components such as pumps, heating elements, valves and sensors

Established in Switzerland in 1967, XORELLA became known in the global textile industry for its innovative indirect steaming system. Since 2002 the company has been a member of the CHTC Fong’s International Group, and a member of SINOMACH Group (China National Machinery Industry Corporation) since 2019.