From the Sector

Dibella is again increasing the use of Cotton made in Africa cotton according to the mass balance system. In 2025, the company will purchase 825 tons of raw fibres. This corresponds to an increase of 10% compared to the previous year.

Dibella has been implementing Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) cotton in its supply chain in accordance with the mass balance system since 2017, thereby supporting socially and ecologically sustainable cotton production in Africa. With this further increase, Dibella is fulfilling its corporate goal of “increasing the use of sustainable fibers”.

The mass balance system allows the raw cotton to be easily implemented in the production process at Dibella's suppliers, while at the same time having a high impact on African cotton farmers. The license costs incurred are borne by Dibella and are not passed on to customers. In this way, Dibella aims to raise awareness for more sustainable raw fiber production, away from cost discussions.

Cotton made in Africa cotton causes up to 13% less greenhouse gas emissions compared to the global average. No artificial irrigation is used during cultivation. This not only saves drinking water, but also protects valuable water resources in regions that are often affected by water shortages. Not using genetically modified seeds protects natural biodiversity. This specific example shows just how much the cotton farmers benefit: In Côte d'Ivoire, the income of farming families from the sale of CmiA cotton increased by almost 18 percent between 2015 and 2020, according to an independent study* commissioned to assess CmiA's activities and their impact.

The Lenzing Group, a supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, acquired of a minority share in TreeToTextile AB, joining the existing shareholders H&M Group, Inter IKEA Group, Stora Enso, and LSCS Invest. The group of owners is united by the strong belief that sustainably produced fibers will have the power to change the textile industry to the better.

TreeToTextile was established as a joint venture in 2014 with the objective of developing a more sustainable process for cellulosic fiber production. The company has operated pilot lines since 2015 and invested in a demonstration plant in 2021. The next step in the company's evolution will be to scale up the production and make its fibers available on the market.

Lenzing Group has produced sustainable regenerated cellulosic fibers and dissolving wood pulp for over 85 years. “We are excited about TreeToTextile’s award-winning technology and production process, which further reduces environmental impact, promotes the transition to a more sustainable future and is fully in line with our corporate strategy,” says Rohit Aggarwal, CEO of the Lenzing Group.

Dr. Roxana Barbieru, CEO of TreeToTextile, adds: “Now with the additional expertise and sustainability leadership of our new shareholder Lenzing Group, our speed to market will increase significantly, to reach our ambitious goals and become an important player in the textile industry.”

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) have modernized and expanded their melt spinning pilot plant with support from the State of Baden-Württemberg. The new facility enables research into new spinning processes, fiber functionalization and sustainable fibers made from biodegradable and bio-based polymers.

In the field of melt spinning, the DITF are working on several pioneering research areas, for example the development of various fibers for medical implants or fibers made from polylactide, a sustainable bio-based polyester. Other focal points include the development of flame-retardant polyamides and their processing into fibers for carpet and automotive applications as well as the development of carbon fibers from melt-spun precursors. The development of a bio-based alternative to petroleum-based polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers into polyethylene furanoate (PEF) fibers is also new. Bicomponent spinning technology, in which the fibers can be produced from two different components, plays a particularly important role, too.

Since polyamide (PA) and many other polymers were developed more than 85 years ago, various melt-spun fibers have revolutionized the textile world. In the field of technical textiles, they can have on a variety of functions: depending on their exact composition, they can for example be electrically conductive or luminescent. They can also show antimicrobial properties and be flame-retardant. They are suitable for lightweight construction, for medical applications or for insulating buildings.

In order to protect the environment and resources, the use of bio-based fibers will be increased in the future with a special focus on easy-to-recycle fibers. To this end, the DITF are conducting research into sustainable polyamides, polyesters and polyolefins as well as many other polymers. Many 'classic', that is, petroleum-based polymers cannot or only insufficiently be broken down into their components or recycled directly after use. An important goal of new research work is therefore to further establish systematic recycling methods to produce fibers of the highest possible quality.

For these forward-looking tasks, a bicomponent spinning plant from Oerlikon Neumag was set up and commissioned on an industrial scale at the DITF in January. The BCF process (bulk continuous filaments) allows special bundling, bulking and processing of the (multifilament) fibers. This process enables the large-scale synthesis of carpet yarns as well as staple fiber production, a unique feature in a public research institute. The system is supplemented by a so-called spinline rheometer. This allows a range of measurement-specific chemical and physical data to be recorded online and inline, which will contribute to a better understanding of fiber formation. In addition, a new compounder will be used for the development of functionalized polymers and for the energy-saving thermomechanical recycling of textile waste.

Toray Industries, Inc. will expand the French subsidiary Toray Carbon Fibers Europe S.A.’s production facilities for regular tow medium- and high-modulus carbon fibers (up to 24,000 filaments). This move will increase annual capacity at the Abidos plant (South-West France) from 5,000 metric tons annually, to 6,000 metric tons. Production is expected to start in 2025.

Demand for medium- and high-modulus carbon fibers is rising in Europe, driven by a push to move towards a net-zero society. This growth is mainly due to higher build rates for commercial aircrafts (secondary structures and engines), as well as centrifuge for energy production, satellites, and high-end automobiles. By boosting carbon fiber production capacity in Europe, Toray is responding to its customers’ demand for medium and high-modulus carbon fibers, as befits the market leader.

Renewcell is the recepient of the Fast Company 2023 World Changing Ideas Awards for the Sustainability/Energy category with the development of recycling unused textiles into pulp, branded as CIRCULOSE®, used for man-made cellulosic fiber production of viscose, modal, lyocell, acetate and other fibers. Additionally Renewcell is recognized as a finalist in the Europe, the Middle East, and Africa category, as well as a finalist in the climate category for the 2023 World Changing Ideas Awards.

World Changing Ideas Awards honor sustainable designs, innovative products, bold social initiatives, and other creative projects that are changing the way we work, live, and interact with the world.

This year’s World Changing Ideas Awards showcase 45 winners, 216 finalists, and more than 300 honorable mentions—with health, climate, energy, and AI among the most popular categories. A panel of Fast Company editors and reporters selected winners and finalists from a pool of more than 2,200 entries across urban design, education, nature, politics, technology, corporate social responsibility, and more. Several new categories were added this year including rapid response, crypto and blockchain, agriculture, and workplace. The 2023 awards feature entries from across the globe, from Italy to Singapore to New Zealand. Fast Company’s Spring 2023 issue (on newsstands May 9, 2023) will showcase some of the world’s most inventive entrepreneurs and forward-thinking companies that are actively tackling global challenges.

The Lenzing Group and VERBUND, an energy transition company, launched the first development stage of the largest ground-mounted photovoltaic system in Upper Austria. Together with its energy partner VERBUND, Lenzing is also paving the way for the transition to zero-emission mobility. The installation of electric vehicle charging infrastructure at the company’s premises underlines Lenzing’s commitment to the energy transition process.

Thanks to the ground-mounted photovoltaic system at the “Ofenloch” landfill site, Lenzing, in conjunction with VERBUND, is consistently moving forward on the path to a carbon-free energy supply and has commissioned the first half of the new photovoltaic system with a peak power of 2,780 kWp. Full commissioning of the system with a peak power of 5,560 kWp is envisaged in mid-October. Annual electricity production will amount to 6,000,000 kWh, which is expected to cut CO₂ emissions by some 4,400 tonnes per year. The Austrian pioneer in fiber production already commissioned three rooftop photovoltaic systems in spring/summer of 2022, with a peak power of 1,454 kWp and annual electricity production of some 1,508,000 kWh. The electricity flows directly into the company’s on-site production and will also power electric charging stations in future. In the first development stage, 16 wallboxes are set to be installed by the end of the year. A further 32 charging points are planned for 2023. The charging stations will be accessible to staff, visitors and the company’s own vehicle fleet.

“VERBUND’s photovoltaic operator model allows us to make the transition to solar power without incurring investment costs or risks. Thanks to the constant expansion in renewable energy, we remain on course to ecologize the value chain, while optimizing our carbon footprint, cutting costs and reducing the load on the grid, as we are using nearly 100 percent of photovoltaic power in our production,” explains Christian Skilich, Chief Pulp Officer of the Lenzing Group.

• Textile Exchange report shows growth of preferred fiber and materials market needs to be accelerated
• With post-pandemic fiber production increasing, the transition to preferred fibers and materials must be a non-negotiable decision, notes Textile Exchange.

According to a new Textile Exchange report, the market share for preferred fiber and materials grew significantly in 2020. The Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report 2021 outlines the market for plant fibers such as cotton, hemp, and linen; animal fibers and materials such as wool, mohair, cashmere, alpaca, down, silk, and leather; manmade cellulosics (MMCFs) such as viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate, and cupro; as well as synthetics such as polyester, polyamide, and more.

The report is a unique annual publication about global fiber and materials production, availability, and trends, including those associated with improved social and environmental impacts, referred to as ”preferred.” The comprehensive report includes quantitative data, industry updates, trend analysis and inspiring insights into the work of leading companies and organizations as they create material change.

The results show that between 2019 and 2020 the market share of preferred cotton increased from 24 to 30 percent and recycled polyester from 13.7 to 14.7 percent. Preferred cashmere increased from 0.8 to 7 percent of all cashmere produced while Responsible Mohair Standard certified fiber expanded from 0 to 27 percent of all mohair produced worldwide in its first year of existence in 2020. The market share of FSC and/or PEFC certified MMCFs increased to approximately 55-60 percent. While the market share of recycled MMCFs is only 0.4 percent, it is expected to increase significantly in the following years.

Brands’ increased interest in the use of preferred fibers and materials was also demonstrated by 75 percent increase in the total number of facilities (to 30,000) around the world becoming certified to the organization’s portfolio of standards in 2020. However, the report also notes that despite the increase, preferred fibers only represent less than one-fifth of the global fiber market. Less than 0.5 percent of the global fiber market was from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles.

Indeed, global fiber production has almost doubled in the last 20 years from 58 million tonnes in 2000 to 109 million tonnes in 2020. While it is not yet clear how the pandemic and other factors will impact future development, global fiber production is expected to increase by another 34 percent to 146 million tonnes in 2030 if the industry builds back business as usual. If this growth continues, it will be increasingly difficult for the industry to meet science-based targets for climate and nature.

Textile Exchange aims to be the driving force for urgent climate action, and its Climate+ strategy calling for the textile industry to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 45 percent by 2030 compared to a 2019 baseline in the pre-spinning phase of textile fiber and materials production, while also addressing other impact areas interconnected with climate such as water, biodiversity, and soil health.

A typical manmade fiber system produces well over 600 tons of yarn a day. This equals in around 700 winders in filament yarn production or 3 systems in staple fiber production. These figures show just how important smooth production processes are.

If an error creeps into the process at any point, the daily waste increases dramatically. It is obvious that all yarn manufacturers want to prevent this happening to ensure their production facilities operate efficiently. Here, digitalization provides invaluable support. A Smart Factory that networks all steps within the production chain – including all auxiliary processes – identifies and reports quality deviations at an early stage. Yarn manufacturers can quickly intervene in the production process and hence avoid generating waste.

Digital solutions ensures process reliability
And the Smart Factory is also the focus of Oerlikon Manmade Fibers. Here, it comprises considerably more than the Plant Operation Center, a system that has been well-established within the market for many years now. “This is about absolute transparency and traceability. At the end of the process, yarn manufacturers are able to track at which position its finished textured yarn packages were spun and even have information on the processed granulate and the specific production conditions”, comments Ivan Gallo, responsible for digital products at Oerlikon Manmade Fiber. In this way, the Smart Factory ensures process reliability, above all. The data are automatically entered into the system and the product assessed at each stage of yarn production at which values and data are recorded – such as during visual inspection and when weighing. In the event of anomalies in the intermediate laboratory and quality checks, this allows yarn producers to intervene in the production process and correct these anomalies.

Information on the chip feeding, on the drying and on the masterbatch are available, as are data on the climate control, on the compressed air supply and on further auxiliary systems. With this, yarn manufacturers have at all times a complete overview of the ongoing production process, including comprehensive information on quality and production costs.

• Additives, pigments and masterbatches for transportation, packaging, textiles & fibers
• Support to “future-proof” medical applications
• Contributing towards more sustainable engineering plastics

Clariant, a world leader in specialty chemicals, turns the spotlight on its increasing on-the-ground support and innovation focus for North America’s four key plastics application segments at NPE 2018 Booth S18155.

Clariant is pushing forward with plans for growth in the region by advancing R&D competencies, and increasing its manufacturing footprint and technical capabilities across its 50+ sites, 3 R&D and 6 technical innovation centers. Clariant’s innovations for the plastics industry include advanced additives, masterbatches and pigments which support the packaging sector in engaging consumers via differentiated, convenient solutions. At NPE, it will also highlight solutions for enhancing and protecting healthcare products, as well as its contribution to stronger and colorful textiles and fibers for everything from e-mobility to industrial applications.

Deepak Parikh, president of region North America, Clariant comments: “Clariant’s product innovation for the US and wider North American plastics industry embraces the region’s fastest growing end-use areas of automotive and construction. It also addresses the impact of trends driven by changing consumer lifestyle preferences and market regulations on other important segments such as packaging and healthcare.”

Transportation
Clariant brings color and protection to support the increasing use of engineering plastics and high temperture resins in automotive interiors, exteriors and under-the-hood. Halogen-free Exolit® OP 1400 provides outstanding flame retardancy to polyamide parts, enhances safety with UL 94 V0 performance down to 0.4 mm and enables the molding of complex parts with no mold deposits and blooming. Exolit OP 1400 has been awarded the Clariant EcoTain®label for outstanding sustainability and performance. At the same time, Clariant offers low-halogen controlled high-performance PV Fast® pigmentswith excellent migration and weather fastness properties to meet the high requirements of today’s transportation and automotive industry. Easy processing Renol® compounds and masterbatches for engineering and high temperature resins provide heat and light stability, and flame retardancy, while maintaining critical flow properties in parts like SMT connectors. Importantly, they are available as small lots which enables customers to purchase only what they require and contribute to a reduction in their carbon footprint.

Packaging
As US packaging manufacturers explore more consumer-friendly, lighterweight and appealing solutions, Clariant is on hand to support their functionality, sustainability-related and color desires. Clariant Pigments has an innovative cooperation with Konica Minolta and matchmycolor to enable fast, precise and efficient color matching of HDPE products, using select organic PV Fast and Graphtol® pigments that comply with FDA regulations. The ColorWorks®center in Chicago is dedicated to US brand managers and designers with teams of color design experts to create color formulations faster than ever before for bottles, caps, closures and films.

According to market reports, plastic pouches are gaining share from traditional pack types in packaged food and are mainstream in home care. To support smoother and more environmentally-compatible processing especially for film applications, Clariant offers an FDA-compliant, vegetable-based powder amide wax, Licolub® FA 1, which acts as a slip and anti-block agent. It is suitable for polyolefins and PVC.

Textiles & Fiber
At NPE 2018, Clariant puts the focus on strong and colorful textiles, carpets and industrial fibers. New AddWorks® TFB 117 offers a number of benefits to help stabilize and smoothen fiber production processes, protect color, and improve heat stability and mechanical properties of fibers. AddWorks TFB 117 ensures smooth spinnability with less filaments breakage, even at low processing temperatures and at high speed spinning up to 5,500 m/min. Clariant also offers a broad range of colorants for polypropylene, polyester, polyamide and acrylic fibers, featuring migration fastness, chemical stability, light- and weather-fastness.

Healthcare
Clariant supports risk control and regulatory compliance for medical polymer and pharmaceutical packaging solutions. Its Mevopur® color and performance masterbatches and compounds include a USP Class 6 line of compliant products and multiple global ISO, 87, 88, and 661.1 certifications ahead of the market deadline. Clariant also offers selected FDA-compliant organic pigments and polymer soluble dyes that meet purity migration fastness as well as toxicological properties for medical devices and pharmaceutical packaging.