From the Sector

Textiles for technical applications often derive their special function via the application of coatings. This way, textiles become, for example wind and water proof or more resistant to abrasion. Usually, petroleum-based substances such as polyacrylates or polyurethanes are used. However, these consume exhaustible resources and the materials can end up in the environment if handled improperly. Therefore, the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are researching materials from renewable sources that are recyclable and do not pollute the environment after use. Polymers that can be produced from bacteria are here of particular interest.

These biopolymers have the advantage that they can be produced in anything from small laboratory reactors to large production plants. The most promising biopolymers include polysaccharides, polyamides from amino acids and polyesters such as polylactic acid or polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs), all of which are derived from renewable raw materials. PHAs is an umbrella term for a group of biotechnologically produced polyesters. The main difference between these polyesters is the number of carbon atoms in the repeat unit. To date, they have mainly been investigated for medical applications. As PHAs products are increasingly available on the market, coatings made from PHAs may also be increasingly used in technical applications in the future.

The bacteria from which the PHAs are obtained grow with the help of carbohydrates, fats and an increased CO₂ concentration and light with suitable wavelength.

The properties of PHA can be adapted by varying the structure of the repeat unit. This makes polyhydroxyalkanoates a particularly interesting class of compounds for technical textile coatings, which has hardly been investigated to date. Due to their water-repellent properties, which stem from their molecular structure, and their stable structure, polyhydroxyalkanoates have great potential for the production of water-repellent, mechanically resilient textiles, such as those in demand in the automotive sector and for outdoor clothing.

The DITF have already carried out successful research work in this area. Coatings on cotton yarns and fabrics made of cotton, polyamide and polyester showed smooth and quite good adhesion. The PHA types for the coating were both procured on the open market and produced by the research partner Fraunhofer IGB. It was shown that the molten polymer can be applied to cotton yarns by extrusion through a coating nozzle. The molten polymer was successfully coated onto fabric using a doctor blade. The length of the molecular side chain of the PHA plays an important role in the properties of the coated textile. Although PHAs with medium-length side chains are better suited to achieving low stiffness and a good textile handle, their wash resistance is low. PHAs with short side chains are suitable for achieving high wash and abrasion resistance, but the textile handle is somewhat stiffer.

The team is currently investigating how the properties of PHAs can be changed in order to achieve the desired resistance and textile properties in equal measure. There are also plans to formulate aqueous formulations for yarn and textile finishing. This will allow much thinner coatings to be applied to textiles than is possible with molten PHAs.

Other DITF research teams are investigating whether PHAs are also suitable for the production of fibers and nonwovens.

Many end-users now expect recycled materials to be in textile products they purchase – and this is driving innovation throughout the industry. However, there are still many technical and economic issues facing yarn and fabric producers using recycled resources. Members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association offer some effective solutions to these challenges.

Synthetic recycled materials such as PET can usually be treated similarly to new yarn, but there are additional complexities where natural fibres like wool and cotton are involved. Today, there’s a trend towards mechanically recycled wool and cotton fibres.

Spinning recycled cotton
The use of mechanically recycled fibres in spinning brings specific quality considerations: they have higher levels of short fibres and neps – and may often be colored, particularly if post-consumer material is used. It’s also true that recycled yarns have limitations in terms of fineness. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fibre data, supporting sustainability goals, including benchmarks for blends of virgin and recycled cotton.
In general, short fibres such as those in recycled material can easily be handled by rotor spinning machines. For ring spinning, the shorter the fibres, the more difficult it is to guide them through the drafting zone to integrate them into the yarn body. Still, for wider yarn counts and higher yarn quality, the focus is now shifting to ring spinning. The presence of short fibres is a challenge, but Rieter offers solutions to address this issue.

Knitting recycled wool
For recycling, wool fibres undergo mechanical procedures such as shredding, cutting, and re-spinning, influencing the quality and characteristics of the resulting yarn. These operations remove the natural scales and variations in fibre length of the wool, causing a decrease in the overall strength and durability of the recycled yarn. This makes the yarn more prone to breakage, especially under the tension exerted during knitting.

Adapting to process recycled materials often requires adjustments to existing machinery. Knitting machines must be equipped with positive yarn suppliers to control fibre tension. Steiger engages in continuous testing of new yarns on the market, to check their suitability for processing on knitting machines. For satisfactory quality, the challenges intensify, with natural yarns requiring careful consideration and adaptation in the knitting processes.

From fibres to nonwovens
Nonwovens technology was born partly from the idea of recycling to reduce manufacturing costs and to process textile waste and previously unusable materials into fabric structures. Nonwovens production lines, where fibre webs are bonded mechanically, thermally or chemically, can easily process almost all mechanically and chemically recycled fibres.

Autefa Solutions offers nonwovens lines from a single source, enabling products such as liners, wipes, wadding and insulation to be produced in a true closed loop. Fibres are often used up to four times for one product.

Recycling: total strategy
Great services, technology and machines from members of Swiss Textile Machinery support the efforts of the circular economy to process recycled fibres. The machines incorporate the know-how of several decades, with the innovative power and quality standards in production and materials.
Stäubli’s global ESG (environmental, social & governance) strategy defines KPIs in the context of energy consumption, machine longevity and the recycling capacity in production units worldwide, as well in terms of machinery recyclability. The machine recyclability of automatic drawing in machines, weaving systems and jacquard machines ranges from 96 to 99%.

In a judgment in December 2023, the Supreme People’s Court of the People’s Republic of China ruled in favor of Rieter in a legal dispute. The case concerned the infringement of a Rieter patent by a competitor’s draw frame. Rieter protects its innovations with patents and registered designs and consistently takes action against infringements of its intellectual property.

Rieter draw frames are known for their stable operation with high sliver quality and productivity. Scanning precision and autoleveling dynamics ensure outstanding sliver evenness and thus the production of high-quality yarns. Draw frames have also been the subject of a patent litigation by Rieter in China at various levels of jurisdiction. Rieter had sued a competitor for unauthorized use of its patented draw frame technology.

In the summer of 2022, the Shanghai Intellectual Property Court confirmed the patent infringement identified by Rieter and prohibited the accused competitor from continuing to use Rieter’s patented technology. The infringing party was also ordered to pay damages to Rieter.

The culpable competitor then appealed the decision of the Shanghai court to the Supreme People’s Court of the People’s Republic of China.

In December 2023, the Supreme Court of China in Beijing upheld the Shanghai decision, confirming that the patent had been infringed. As a result, Rieter’s competitor is prohibited from selling the infringing machine types and is required to pay the damages determined by the court.

This Supreme Court decision represents a major success for Rieter in defending its proprietary technologies in China. It is further proof that foreign companies can effectively defend their intellectual property in China.

As the technology leader in spinning machinery manufacturing, Rieter invests around 5% of its turnover annually in research and development. Rieter protects its innovative products with patents and registered designs and takes consistent action against infringements of industrial property rights.

A lot of waste is generated in the trade fair and event industry. It makes sense to have furniture that can quickly be dismantled and stored to save space - or simply disposed of and recycled. Paper is the ideal raw material here: locally available and renewable. It also has an established recycling process. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) and their project partners have jointly developed a recycling-friendly modular system for trade fair furniture. The "PapierEvents" project was funded by the German Federal Environmental Foundation (DBU).

Once the paper has been brought into yarn form, it can be processed into a wide variety of basic elements using the structure winding process, creating a completely new design language.

The unusual look is created in the structure winding process. In this technology developed at the DITF, the yarn is deposited precisely on a rotating mandrel. This enables high process speeds and a high degree of automation. After the winding process, the individual yarns are fixed, creating a self-supporting component. A starch-based adhesive, which is also made from renewable and degradable raw materials, was used in the project for the fixation.

The recyclability of all the basic elements developed in the project was investigated and confirmed. For this purpose the research colleagues at the project partner from the Department of Paper Production and Mechanical Process Engineering at TU Darmstadt (PMV) used the CEPI method, a new standard test procedure from the Confederation of European Paper Industries.

Sensor and lighting functions were also implemented in a recycling-friendly manner. The paper sensor yarns are integrated into the components and detect contact.

Also, a modular system for trade fair and event furniture was developed. The furniture is lightweight and modular. For example, the total weight of the counter shown is well under ten kilograms and individual parts can easily be shipped in standard packages. All parts can be used several times, making them suitable for campaigns lasting several weeks.

A counter, a customer stopper in DIN A1 format and a pyramid-shaped stand were used as demonstrators. The research work of the DITF (textile technology) and PMV (paper processing) was supplemented by other partners: GarnTec GmbH developed the paper yarns used, the industrial designers from quintessence design provided important suggestions for the visual and functional design of the elements and connectors and the event agency Rödig GmbH evaluated the ideas and concepts in terms of usability in practical use.

SHIMA SEIKI ITALIA S.p.A., Italian subsidiary of leading Japanese computerized knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD., will exhibit at the 94th edition of the Pitti Immagine Filati exhibition in Florence, Italy (24th-26th January 2024). It will exhibit as part of the CustomEasy section, which involves the concept of Fashion at Work and explores customization in the presence of textile machinery and design software, represented in part by SHIMA SEIKI's lineup of WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines and APEXFiz® design software.

The new SWG-XR® flagship machine features 4 needle beds for all-needle knitting of high quality WHOLEGARMENT® products using the company's original SlideNeedle™, in addition to a re-designed sinker system and a compact, light-weight carriage featuring 4 systems as well as auto yarn carriers. All contribute to increased productivity of more than 25% over the previous MACH2®XS machine, as well as increased product range using a wider variety of yarn for supporting knits for all seasons, and higher quality for knitting beautiful fabrics and silhouettes; even items that were impossible to knit with the MACH2® series, including punch-lace patterns, variable stitch knitting and intarsia knitting. Setting new standards for the next generation of waste-free, sustainable WHOLEGARMENT® knitting, SWG-XR® at Pitti Filati will be shown in 15L and 18L as well as a prototype machine in 22L.

APEXFiz® subscription-based design software supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes. By replacing physical samples, virtual samples reduce time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste.

The product planning capability of APEXFiz® is enhanced by several web services featured as part of the SHIMA SEIKI Online Services (SHIMA online) web platform. These include SHIMA Datamall™ digital content web service that allows users to search, browse and purchase a variety of useful data for streamlining the planning and production of fashion items, as well as the recently renewed yarnbank® digital yarn sourcing web service that offers digitized yarn data by yarn companies from around the world for download and use in virtual sampling. SHIMANAVI® e-learning system is also part of the online platform.

BTMA member Vickers Oils has marked an important milestone in its partnership with knitting machinery leader Lonati by earning Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) approval for its VICKERLUBE SOCK 46 needle oil.

VICKERLUBE SOCK 46 is a mineral-based needle lubricant designed to meet the criteria for modern knitting machine technology. It provides a high standard of lubrication as well as holding very good stability properties and having a high resistance to oxidation. The product is readily scourable and holds a well-balanced additive system meaning that it is fully compatible with all machine components. It can also be used with machines producing any yarn type – including tricky elastanes – to produce the highest quality end product.

Lonati, headquartered in Brescia, Italy, has been a prominent name in knitting machines for over 70 years, designing and manufacturing an impressive average of 8,000 annually. It places a strong emphasis on delivering the highest quality textile machinery, underpinned by a commitment to research and development that ensures the use of cutting-edge products, technologies and processes in its machines.

Vickers Oils, based in Leeds, West Yorkshire, shares these values, leading the industry in quality and assurance through its continuous focus on research and development, technological leadership, quality control and customer service. As it has done for almost two centuries – the company will mark its 200th anniversary in 2028.

Lonati is now officially recommending VICKERLUBE SOCK 46 for use in its single-cylinder GOAL series of knitting machines, marking a successful collaboration that required dedicated efforts from the teams of Lonati, Vickers Oils and its Italian representative Lubrogamma. Vickers Oils is committed to sustainable product development and VICKERLUBE SOCK 46 meets the clearly defined criteria set out by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and conforms to ZDHC MRSL Level 1 certification.

B&B Italia unveiled a special edition Camaleonda, the iconic sofa system by Mario Bellini, adorned in a brand-new fabric designed by Stella McCartney – platforming her S-Wave monogram. Marking the second chapter of the partnership between the British conscious luxury pioneer and the Italian design house, the collaboration was launched at Art Basel Miami Beach on 6th December 2023 as part of an installation at B&B Italia Design Studio’s grand opening. The Camaleonda is crafted from nearly entirely sustainable materials, materialising both brands’ nature-positive visions.

The partnership between B&B Italia and Stella McCartney was born of Stella’s long-time personal passion for Bellini’s works and started in 2022 with the Le Bambole armchair. It evolves now with the new version of Camaleonda, the sofa system originally designed in 1970, which made its comeback 50 years later in 2020 - speaking a contemporary language between structural solutions and sustainable choices.

The brand-new Stella McCartney X B&B Italia Camaleonda introduces the latest printed fabric “S-Wave”, which is the result of a next-generation sustainability innovation introduced by the design company’s R&D team. The S-Wave upholstery, available in two different colours, is based on OceanSafe naNea yarn, which is verified to be biodegradable, Cradle to Cradle Certified® Gold and does not contain harmful substances. The material does not shed persistent microplastics into the environment, however, performs like conventional materials.

Hologenix has announced that its flagship product CELLIANT® infrared (IR) technology, a natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals, is now more widely available from the company as a printed coating, expanding the uses of the technology and increasing the number of prospective partners. The innovation has already been named a Selection in the Fibers & Insulations Category of the ISPO Textrends Awards just last month.

Traditionally, CELLIANT has been embedded directly into fibers and yarns. However, for its print applications, CELLIANT fine mineral powder can be easily added directly onto the surface of all different fabric types. The company is particularly energized about how this expands the array of sustainable offerings that CELLIANT can be incorporated into, and is looking forward to partnering with brands to print CELLIANT on their ecofriendly fabrics. CELLIANT Print may be a cost-effective alternative to in-yarn solutions and allows for a more efficient supply chain.

fabrics or to a new fabric to create a variety of different product applications. For brands who are seeking a smaller pattern roller for apparel, orthopedic products or other close-to-skin projects, CELLIANT Print can accommodate this. There is also a larger pattern roller for bedding and larger-scale applications. As long as the print covers 80% of the fabric’s surface, the design possibilities for the print itself are virtually endless. CELLIANT Print has undergone mechanical testing for wash tests and can be confirmed to last the useful life of the product, for 50+ washes.

By applying CELLIANT Print directly onto the fabric, brand partners are able to use CELLIANT with a higher loading of bioceramic minerals than what would otherwise be possible with an in-yarn solution. This makes it ideal for recovery and performance purposes. In fact, an example of a CELLIANT Print application on kinesiology tape, KT Tape® PRO Oxygen™ was launched in April to great success.

Eastman Naia™ Renew cellulosic fiber received Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certification on December 13. This certifies Naia™ Renew recycled content, chain of custody, social and environmental practices, and chemical restrictions.

Textile Exchange, a global non-profit for sustainable change in the fashion and textile industry, manages the GRS certification process. Certification is achieved through an audit from independent third-party certifying body SCS Global Services and applies to the full supply chain and addresses traceability, environmental principles, social requirements, chemical content and labeling.

"We’re honored to add GRS certification to our list of Naia™ certifications that support our sustainability goals,” said Claudia de Witte, sustainability leader for Eastman textiles. “Third-party certifications help us build our brand trustworthiness. It’s our goal to make sustainable textiles available to all, and we do that by building trust with our customers and collaborators. This certification adds even more credibility to our fibers and our sustainability story, which we’re proud to share.”

In June 2023, Textile Exchange made an important announcement regarding its Alternative Volume Reconciliation (VR2) policy, which broadened the range of chemical recycling technologies eligible for mass balance. Notably, this expansion now encompasses gasification, the technical description of Eastman’s molecular recycling technology known as carbon renewal technology. Eastman collaborated with Textile Exchange and other stakeholders to educate the industry about the value and contribution of its molecular recycling technology. This policy update is critical for Eastman because it allows the company’s innovative material-to-material recycling technology to be audited for GRS certification.

Molecular recycling technologies at Eastman break waste down into its molecular building blocks allowing the materials to be used in new materials that are indistinguishable from non-recycled materials. By expanding the GRS to include gasification, the global standard now allows for a broader approach to making sustainable textiles accessible to everyone.

In recent years, the textiles industry has shifted toward circular materials to help tackle one of the largest challenges facing the planet: waste pollution, especially textile waste. Eastman molecular recycling is complementary to mechanical recycling and is a solution for hard-to-recycle waste material, including textiles, which are impacted by factors like fiber blends, chemicals and additives.

Naia™ Renew is produced from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% GRS-certified* waste materials that would otherwise be destined for landfills through Eastman's patented molecular recycling technology. The certification verifies the processes of chemical recycling, concentrating, extrusion, and spinning of the undyed yarns and fibers.

Suedwolle Group introduces ACTIVEYARN®, the company’s first seasonless corporate collection: ACTIVEYARN® is composed of a selection of weaving, flat and circular knitting, hosiery and technical yarns, with advanced spinning technologies, wool blends and other natural and traceable fibres. It is a seasonless collection of yarns suitable for different occasions, to support everyone’s attitude and style.

This idea is expressed by the concept of “Get active”, which is not just about using Suedwolle Group’s products in sports applications, but about a new mindset, a changing perspective. By taking a fresh look at the company’s wide offer, ACTIVEYARN® provides new opportunities and inspiration to explore Suedwolle Group’s full potential in terms of technology, sustainability and innovations. It considers with a new point of view on the collections for knitting, weaving and technical uses, creating new connections among them and offering a mosaic of new possibilities and versatile combinations.

This theme of the collection and the new mindset may be represented in the concept of a “kaleidoscope”, symbol of the active change inspiring Suedwolle Group’s creativity.

The yarns in the ACTIVEYARN® collection embody the company’s six strategic pillars of innovation – sustainability, circularity, traceability, design, performance and technology – drivers of the entire process of design and production.

Jasmin GOTS Nm 2/48 (100% wool 19,5 μ X-CARE) is a natural, renewable and biodegradable yarn with GOTS certification that meets the company’s demand for sustainability. X-CARE, the innovative treatment by Suedwolle Group, uses eco-friendly and chlorine-free substances that make wool environmentally friendly and suitable for easy-care quality.

Tirano Betaspun® RWS FSC (41,5% wool 17,2 μ TEC RWS certified, 41,5% LENZING™Lyocell 1,4 dtex 17% polyamide filament 22 dtex GRS certified) is a fully traceable high performance yarn, suitable for sportswear and activewear.

OTW® Midway GRS Nm 2/60 (60% wool 23,5 μ X-CARE, 40% polyamide 3,3 dtex GRS certified) comes from the recycling of pre-consumer polyamide and thus is a perfect example of circular production. Suitable for weaving, it combines the added performance that comes from our OTW® patented technology applied to a high durability blend, ideal for active garments.

Wallaby Betaspun® Nm 1/60 (87,5% wool 18,4 μ TEC, 12,5% polyamide filament 22 dtex) is the result of application of latest-generation Betaspun® technology to a natural fibre like wool, allowing production of fine yarns with extra strength and abrasion resistance, ideal for seamless and wrap knitting.

Banda TEC X-Compact Nm 2/47 (100% wool 17,2 μ TEC) is a 100% natural, renewable and biodegradable yarn benefitting from the innovative X-Compact, permitting production of particularly linear yarns ideal for clean design and fabrics appropriate for today’s fashions.

Caprera GRS Nm 1/60 (45% wool 19,3 μ Non mulesed X-CARE 55% COOLMAX® EcoMade polyester 2,2 dtex GRS certified) increases the performance of the wool-based non mulesed fibre through combination with COOLMAX® EcoMade polyester. This is a material coming from recycling of post-consumer PET bottles, dyeable at low temperatures, that aids evaporation of moisture from the skin to maintain stable body temperature, enhancing the comfort of activewear and urban garments.