From the Sector

ACM Group, with over forty years of expertise in designing and producing accessories for leading high-fashion houses, continues to strengthen its position as a model of excellence. This commitment is marked by two significant milestones: achieving the ISO14001 certification and introducing a new Code of Ethics.

These achievements highlight ACM Group's enduring commitment to conducting business responsibly. This dedication is further reflected in its integrated and transparent communication with both internal and external stakeholders. By combining tradition, innovation, and social responsibility, ACM's ethical approach reaches all areas of the company.

ISO14001 Certification: a strong commitment to the environment
Achieved in 2024, the ISO14001 certification highlights ACM's ability to design and implement an eMective and responsible environmental management system. This milestone reflects the company's forward-looking policies, including the total recycling of water (a system inaugurated in 1992), the use of renewable energy sources, and the use of certified materials with low environmental impact. ACM also prioritizes recycled and traceable materials throughout its production chain, certified under the Global Recycled Standard (GRS).

"ISO14001 certification is a confirmation and gratification of our way of doing business: it is not the finish line, but the start of a journey towards even more ambitious goals in terms of environmental sustainability,” says ACM management. The company's approach is not limited to processes and materials but extends to every aspect of its operations. In ist outdoor spaces, ACM has recently created, in collaboration with 3Bee, a biodiversity oasis that is home to bees and other pollinating insects. This is a small gesture that demonstrates attention to environmental respect in every detail of fashion and beyond.

A Code of Ethics to chart the course
ACM's new Code of Ethics serves as a fundamental pillar to reinforce the principles that have always guided the company, with a strong focus on the well-being of the working environment in all its aspects. Transparency, respect for people, and attention to the environment are central to this document, which provides clear guidelines for responsible behavior in every professional relationship. This code is more than a formal commitment; it serves as a practical framework for ACM to build an open and constructive dialogue with customers, suppliers, and partners.

It is getting exciting again in Cologne on 12 and 13 March for the cellulose fibres industry. Six new products have been nominated for the popular innovation award.

Every year, the conference organisator nova-Institute together with award sponsor GIG Karasek honours companies that impress with their creativity, technological progress and ecological impact. The aim of the award is not only to recognise the winners’ innovative products, but also to set an example for the courage to innovate.

The nominees’ presentations, the voting and the winner ceremony will take place on 12 March at the Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025. Participants of the conference can vote live for the three winners. More than 220 people are expected to attend.

The Nominees

Fibers365 (DE): Hemp365 – Agricultural Decorative and Carrier Material
The solution “hemp365” is characterised by the development of a cost-effective, plant-based decorative and carrier material through the chemical-free processing of a regional agricultural fibre and the use of resulting short fibres in a wet-laid process, allowing for a massive reduction in the amount of fossil based binders required for strength and functionality. The non fibre content is less than 7 % and is also made from biogenic and biodegradable material. Hemp365 is 100% natural and vegan. It has been designed for consumer (fashion) and industrial applications in cooperation with an automotive OEM.

Releaf Paper France (FR): Releaf Fiber – Eco-Friendly Paper from Urban Fallen Leaves
Releaf Paper France transforms urban fallen leaves into sustainable cellulose fibres, offering an eco-friendly alternative to traditional hardwood pulp. Using proprietary low-temperature extraction, high-quality fibres with excellent paper-forming properties are isolated. With a cellulose content of 32-48 % and properties similar to hardwood, RELEAF fibres are ideal for packaging materials like corrugated paper, boxes, and bags. This innovative process, which requires minimal water and non-aggressive solvents, aligns with circular economy principles, repurposing millions of tons of urban leaf waste annually and supporting global brands in achieving sustainable packaging solutions.

SA-Dynamics (DE): Cellulose Aerogel Textiles – Next-Generation Insulation Materials
Cellulose Aerogel Textiles are revolutionary insulation materials made from 100 % biodegradable cellulose aerogel fibres. These combine the flexibility and ease of processing of traditional fabrics with the superior thermal insulation properties of aerogels by utilising a novel aerogel fibre process. Lightweight, highly efficient, and compatible with conventional textile machinery, they provide a sustainable alternative to fossil-based and animal-derived insulation materials. Fully recyclable and free from microplastic emissions, Cellulose Aerogel Textiles set a new benchmark for circular economy solutions in the textile and construction industries. Initial functional demonstrators were developed through two projects, funded by Biotexfuture and RWTH Innovation, respectively.

Sci-Lume Labs (US): Bylon® – Renewable Circular Fibres from Agricultural Waste
Sci-Lume Labs makes Bylon®, a scalable, circular, biosynthetic fibre. Using highly efficient chemistries to valorise agricultural waste, Bylon® seamlessly integrates into every step of the global value chain – from raw material production through textile manufacturing. Bylon® is distinct from incumbent and next-gen materials because it is simultaneously bio-based; waste-derived; degradable; recyclable; downstream-compatible; and melt-spinnable. Bylon® also offers a unique performance profile by combining the mechanical properties and tunability of traditional synthetics with the moisture properties and circularity of natural fibres. By not requiring changes to the supply chain, Bylon® empowers the industry to reduce its environmental impact – without compromising on quality, performance, or cost.

TMG Automotive (PT): REFIBER – Sustainable Automotive Surface Material
Textile-based composite solutions are a growing trend in the automotive sector, especially for decorative and functional interior applications. Innovative plant-based leather demonstrates this trend, combining sustainability with advanced performance. Developed from a biopolymer matrix combined with cellulose waste, this material transforms waste into a premium, eco-friendly solution. Its textile backing and non-woven laminate backing are also made entirely from cellulose fibres, creating a fully integrated bio-based composite. Designed for car interiors and more, this lightweight, durable and aesthetically versatile material sets a new standard for sustainable design, while satisfying the industry’s growing demand for circular and renewable alternatives.

Uluu (AU): Replacing plastic in textiles with natural, seaweed-derived materials
Uluu is an Australian start-up set to replace plastics with natural polymers called PHAs. Uluu materials are made from a regenerative feedstock: farmed seaweed, thus ending reliance on fossil fuels and land crops. Uluu, in partnership with Deakin University, is developing textiles that perform like synthetic polyester but are truly biodegradable and biocompatible, thus eliminating persistent microplastic pollution in fashion. Importantly, Uluu materials are reusable, recyclable, and most importantly, compostable. They are naturally produced through a unique fermentation process that uses seaweed, saltwater microbes and seawater. Uluu pellets can be directly substituted for plastic (e.g., polyester, nylon) in existing melt spinning equipment, creating yarns that can be knitted or woven into textiles. In addition to fibre-grade pellets, Uluu is also producing other grades of pellets to replace plastics used in e.g., buttons, sunglasses, hair clips and packaging.

Dibella is again increasing the use of Cotton made in Africa cotton according to the mass balance system. In 2025, the company will purchase 825 tons of raw fibres. This corresponds to an increase of 10% compared to the previous year.

Dibella has been implementing Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) cotton in its supply chain in accordance with the mass balance system since 2017, thereby supporting socially and ecologically sustainable cotton production in Africa. With this further increase, Dibella is fulfilling its corporate goal of “increasing the use of sustainable fibers”.

The mass balance system allows the raw cotton to be easily implemented in the production process at Dibella's suppliers, while at the same time having a high impact on African cotton farmers. The license costs incurred are borne by Dibella and are not passed on to customers. In this way, Dibella aims to raise awareness for more sustainable raw fiber production, away from cost discussions.

Cotton made in Africa cotton causes up to 13% less greenhouse gas emissions compared to the global average. No artificial irrigation is used during cultivation. This not only saves drinking water, but also protects valuable water resources in regions that are often affected by water shortages. Not using genetically modified seeds protects natural biodiversity. This specific example shows just how much the cotton farmers benefit: In Côte d'Ivoire, the income of farming families from the sale of CmiA cotton increased by almost 18 percent between 2015 and 2020, according to an independent study* commissioned to assess CmiA's activities and their impact.

Conservation International and Sateri, a leading global producer of textile fibres, have announced the launch of the third phase of the Poyang Lake Ecosystem Restoration Initiative. This new phase marks a critical milestone in restoring China’s largest freshwater lake by integrating carbon neutrality efforts, building on the initiative’s significant success since its inception in 2019.

Located in Jiangxi Province, in the southeastern part of the country, Poyang Lake plays a critical role in regulating floods in the Yangtze River and supports the livelihoods of more than 45 million people living in the province, contributing more than 15% of the Yangtze River’s annual runoff. It is also a wetland of national and global importance, providing a habitat for flora and fauna of high conservation value, including the critically endangered Siberian crane and finless porpoise.

This new phase marks the fifth year of collaboration between Conservation International, a global non-profit organisation dedicated to protecting nature for the benefit of people and the planet, and Sateri. The initiative has seen significant successes since it began in 2019, including:

• Strengthening the management of 473,000 hectares of protected areas across 50 ecological zones;
• Enhancing the capability of 2,000 wetland rangers through capacity-building programme;
• Improving the habitat management of 350 species of wildlife, including the critically endangered finless porpoise and Siberian crane;
• Supporting the construction of five community artificial-wetlands for wastewater treatment, which can treat 56,000 tonnes of agricultural and domestic sewage; and
• Benefiting 25,000 local community members through livelihood support, vocational capacity-building and environmental education programmes.

Zhang Cheng, Program Director at Conservation International China, emphasized the project’s broader impact, "This initiative has truly enhanced biodiversity conservation and ecological education, while empowering local communities with sustainable livelihoods. It demonstrates the value of collaborative approaches in balancing ecological protection with human well-being."

In line with Sateri’s 2030 aspiration of becoming a ‘net positive impact’ company, the newly-launched third phase will advance these successes by focusing on:

• Research on the Freshwater Health Index (FHI) for the basin
• Protection and restoration of small wetlands
• Better climate change mitigation and adaptation for resilience

This collaboration, supported by the Jiujiang Municipal Government of the Jiangxi Province, underscores the shared commitment of both organisations to advancing biodiversity and sustainable development in one of China’s most vital freshwater ecosystems.

The Poyang Lake Basin Ecological Protection Project highlights Sateri’s efforts to address environmental challenges through practical actions and partnerships. The company continues to prioritize biodiversity conservation and sustainability while encouraging collaboration to achieve these goals.

Cai Zhichao, Vice President of Operations at Sateri, emphasised the initiative’s alignment with the company’s sustainability goals, "At the heart of our operations lies a commitment to the bioeconomy, where we aim to protect the natural resources we use. This conservation initiative not only helps us meet our internal sustainability targets but also contributes to advancing the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (UNSDGs) 6 – Clean Water and Sanitation; 11 – Sustainable Cities and Communities; 12 – Responsible Consumption and Production; 13 – Climate Action and 15 – Life on Land. We accomplish this through innovation, advanced technology and low-carbon practices.”

International technology group ANDRITZ has inaugurated a new technical center in Montbonnot, France, dedicated to advancing solutions for dry molded fiber production.

Dry molded fiber (DMF) production uses a nearly waterless process to convert cellulose fibers into three-dimensional products for sustainable packaging. Based on its strategic partnership with the Swedish DMF pioneer PulPac, ANDRITZ is now able to offer complete dry molded fiber lines.

The new technical center with its pilot line will support ANDRITZ’s development of industrial-scale solutions for high-speed, turnkey dry molded fiber production plants for the packaging industry. It will also enable customers to conduct trials, receive support on R&D projects, and create new products with customized shapes and barrier properties.

Andreas Lukas, Senior Vice President of ANDRITZ Nonwoven & Textile, states: “Wood pulp processing has been a core competence of ANDRITZ for a long time. Our new pilot line is an important step in advancing our solutions for responsible convenience packaging from wood pulp. By combining ANDRITZ Dan-Web’s airlaid forming capabilities with PulPac’s molding technology, we are striving for the highest capacity, product quality and flexibility in this field.”

Dibella‘s latest sustainability report covers the period from January 1st, 2023 to July 31st, 2024 and documents progress and future plans in the areas of environmental, social and corporate governance.

Dibella laid the foundations for corporate social responsibility back in the early 2010s. Since then, the company has been consistently committed to the implementation of socially and environmentally consciously produced textiles and has initiated and completed numerous lighthouse projects in the supply chain. Dibella presented its activities and goals for the first time in 2012 in its sustainability report. Since then, the company has documented its progress at regular intervals.

Environment
Particularly noteworthy are the constant proportion of GOTS and Fairtrade-certified products and a significant increase in the implementation of Cotton made in Africa cotton in the supply chain using the mass balance system: from 300 tonnes in 2023 to 750 tonnes in 2024. Another highlight is the reforestation project in Tamil Nadu, India, where over 4,000 trees have already been planted to offset CO₂ emissions. As a founding member of CIBUTEX, Dibella is also committed to the recovery of textile resources and the associated reduction of environmental pollution.

Social
Dibella has initiated and completed various social projects. One example is the improvement of working conditions in the supply chain by providing ergonomic seating for employees of a Pakistani clothing manufacturer. Dibella's own GoodTextiles Foundation also supports educational projects in India and drinking water initiatives in Africa. Measures have been introduced within the company to promote a good working environment.

Corporate Governance
99.5 per cent of textiles are now labelled with the Green Button, which confirms compliance with the Supply Chain Duty of Care Act. In addition, digital transparency tools such as the respect-code, which disclose the origin and production steps of the goods, have been further expanded. Following the coronavirus-related travel restrictions, business trips to India were also resumed in order to familiarise customers and interested parties with the positive ecological and social framework conditions of the supply chain.

Goals for the future
By 2030, company-related CO2 emissions are to be reduced by 45% and the proportion of organic Fairtrade cotton is to be increased to 20%. Overall, the proportion of sustainable cotton is to be increased to 70% of production. The company will continue to focus on sustainable innovation and transparency in the future.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will present its full range of high- performance materials for footwear at Inspiramais on January 21st and 22nd, 2025 in Porto Alegre, Brazil. The global leading manufacturer of performance materials will highlight its latest technical and sustainable innovations tailored for the shoe industry, including microfibers, counterliners, liners, interlinings, reinforcements, insoles, and membranes. At Inspiramais, designers and footwear professionals can meet with Brazil-based Freudenberg experts to support them design and develop products in line with the industry's evolving demands for performance and environmental responsibility.

Freudenberg’s presentation at the event underscores its commitment to innovation and sustainability within the industry. In line with its sustainability goals, Freudenberg has increased the proportion of products in its portfolio that incorporate recycled content and employ solvent-free and binder-free manufacturing processes. The company's efforts are exemplified by its range of vamp liners, reinforcements, and strobel insoles, which contain between 35% to 100% recycled material. The new insoles and reinforcements for sports shoes have recycled fiber content and provide high tensile and tear resistance at the same time.

Vegan suede
Additionally, Freudenberg is introducing a solvent-free vegan suede material, crafted from microfiber nonwovens, which offers both breathability and versatility in dyeing—a suitable choice for upper and facing in casual and athletic shoes.

Innovations for safety shoes and others
Freudenberg's advancements also extend to the realm of safety footwear, with the introduction of specialized insoles that are resistant to perforation and suitable for PU injection, as well as electrically conductive. Moreover, the company has developed breathable waterproof membranes that can be integrated into liners and interliners, enhancing both comfort and protection for safety shoes, boots, and waterproof footwear.

The company's new range of high performance counterliners is another highlight, designed to cater to a diverse array of footwear categories, including women's, men's, children's, safety shoes, boots, and athletic shoes. These counterliners are distinguished by their breathability, color variety, and superior abrasion resistance.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, will showcase innovations for the denim industry at Sustainability Talks in Istanbul, Turkey and Denim Première Vision in Milan, Italy next month.

Specifically, Archroma will highlight its DENIM HALO pretreatment and dyeing process for laser-friendly, easily washable denim. It will also join its partners Kipaş Denim and Jeanologia to launch a joint hangtag for the upcoming Kipaş Denim Contra Denim collection, which is based on the DENIM HALO concept.

“Denim continues to be an incredibly exciting market segment, with brands and mills pushing the limits in terms of sustainability and aesthetics to give consumers the iconic look and feel of denim in a more environmentally conscious way,” Umberto De Vita, Archroma’s Market Segment Director - Denim, said. “Guided by our PLANET CONSCIOUS+ approach, we develop solutions that not only help our customers navigate the shift to cleaner chemistries and resource-saving processes, but improve their productivity and competitiveness too.”

Innovative DENIM HALO process
The DENIM HALO process combines Archroma’s new DIRSOL® RD special pretreatment with its DENISOL® indigo dyes, including an aniline-free formulation, or DIRESUL® sulfur black, sulfur blue or sulfur colors dyestuffs to achieve a ring-dyeing effect. This superficial dyeing creates laser-friendly denim for popular worn or distressed washdown effects while reducing yarn shrinkage and improving garment tensile strength.

Crucially, the new process also delivers a substantially reduced environmental footprint compared to industry-standard denim finishing. It avoids processes like manual hand scraping or potassium permanganate spraying and helps reduce caustic soda use in sulfur dyeing, which lowers the effluent load and improves weaving efficiency.

Low-impact Contra Denim collection
Archroma will also join Kipaş Denim, a leader in integrated textile production based in Turkey, and Jeanologia, a sustainable textile solutions company, to launch a hangtag program for the upcoming Kipaş Denim Contra Denim collection.

Based on DENIM HALO, the Contra Denim concept is a dyeing and finishing process that enables brands to create stunning and long-lasting distressed looks and design effects, such as intricate patterns, whiskering and fades, through cleaner processes that save water and energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions. The hangtag will enable partner brands to communicate these benefits to consumers at the point of sale, nurturing transparency and trust.

The Archroma team at Sustainability Talks 2024
Sustainability Talks is an intensive one-day event that emphasizes networking and collaboration to solve the textile industry’s toughest challenges through sustainable solutions (Archroma in Turkey at Booth 20 at the Hilton Istanbul Bomonti Conference Center for Sustainability Talks on December 3, 2024).

Archroma at Denim Première Vision 2024
Denim Première Vision is bringing the global denim community to Milan, Italy in December to explore denim trends, markets and culture through the lens of eco-responsibility. Meet our experts Umberto De Vita and Julio Perales to learn more about our denim solutions. (Archroma in Milan at Booth C14 at Superstudio Più for Denim Première Vision on December 4-5, 2024).

ALLIED Feather + Down (AF+D), global experts in high performance, ethically sourced, and recycled down, will be supplying their high performance ExpeDRY ultra dry down to Montane for their fall 2025 down apparel line.

ExpeDRY represents the evolution of performance down for use in extreme situations, replacing chemical treatments with gold particles permanently bonded to down clusters. ExpeDRY keeps water vapor from condensing into droplets, providing better real-world performance than all other treatments. The ExpeDRY filled products will also dry significantly faster in-home laundry making care easier and utilizing much less energy through the life of the products.

Montane will offer ExpeDRY in 100% of their down jackets, being the first to adopt the technology over all down jackets.

“ALLIED introduced the world’s first water resistant down back in 2015, and we’ve learned a lot since then,” said Matthew Betcher, Creative Director with ALLIED. “Traditional WR down works great when in direct contact with water, but that is not what’s happening inside down insulation chambers. Water vapor is the biggest issue and ExpeDRY helps keep this vapor from condensing, allowing it to evaporate though the shell more effectively, keeping the down drier for longer, and helping it to dry out faster if it does get wet.

“It is also equally important that even in performance technologies, we continue to strive to reduce our environmental impact,” added Betcher. “So, removing another unnecessary chemical from our supply chain will help significantly with that. It’s only a matter of time before we all realize that the C0 chemicals we are using might not be so great for the planet after all.”

“At Montane, we are really excited to introduce such a new and disruptive technology from our long-term partners Allied Feather & Down,” said Liam Steinbeck, Materials Manager with Montane. “ExpeDRY is fully aligned with our philosophy as a brand to be one of the first to market with the latest most innovative technologies, bringing unparalleled performance and comfort in the most demanding environments.”

Poised to render current, chemical-intensive treatments obsolete, ExpeDRY down insulation is cleaner and better performing than all current water-resistant down technologies. Created in partnership with FUZE Technologies and relying on gold particles permanently bonded to down plumes, ExpeDRY is permanent and since it is completely chemical free, there are no PFAS or other concerns. In all real-world simulations, ExpeDRY is far better at keeping insulated jackets dry and warm in any environment, and at a significantly lower impact than the WR treatment alternatives.

Substituting dry curing for traditional water-based techniques, these new textile production solutions greatly reduce water-borne pollution: Green Theme Technologies (GTT), creators of the waterless and PFAS-free EMPEL® textile finishing platform, has teamed up with Golden Long John to promote the next generation of cleaner and more efficient fabric dye and finishing processes.

The textile manufacturing industry generates trillions of gallons of wastewater each year. Traditional textile dyeing and finishing rinses chemical dyes and water repellency onto fabrics. Post-production toxic water is then dumped into rivers and oceans.

Last year, Golden Long John, a major textile supplier of the global footwear industry, introduced GTT’s EMPEL® finishing platform in their Vietnam factories. Their partnership has led to the combination of their two industry leading technologies, the EMPEL® high performance water repellent finish and Golden Long John’s direct dye process.

“We believe, Cleaner IS Better and this is a big step forward for the fashion and textile industries,” said Martin Flora, President of GTT Business Development. “Similar to GTT’s EMPEL® application, Golden Long John applies dye chemistry directly onto fabrics. Better performance with much less pollution is our vision for the future.”