From the Sector

The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) and Seiko Epson Corporation ("Epson") have succeeded in developing new regenerated cellulose fiber with a silk-like sheen from waste cotton fabric through a new production process.

A movement toward using fibers recycled from discarded clothing has been gaining momentum, driven by a growing recognition of waste clothing as a global environmental issue. In Europe in particular, a move is under way to use more regenerated fiber and reduce textile waste.

To address societal issues surrounding textile waste, HKRITA and Epson have been conducting research and development on regenerated fibers since signing a joint development agreement in January 2024. As a result of this collaboration, the partners have successfully developed regenerated cellulose fiber using a new production process that transforms discarded cotton fabric into regenerated fiber.

This new process was made possible by integrating Epson's proprietary Dry Fiber Technology for defibrating textiles with HKRITA's fiber-dissolving technology. The process involves (1) defibrating discarded cotton fabric into a powder-like state, (2) dissolving the cotton in a solvent, and (3) extruding it through a nozzle into a coagulation bath, where it solidifies and is spun into fiber.

The regenerated cellulose fiber produced through this process is expected to have both a smooth, silky sheen and the strength of cotton. This fiber is expected to be used in high-end materials such as scarves, neckties, and suit linings. Moreover, since the short fibers that occur during the regenerated fiber production process can also be used rather than discarded, as was usually the case, this regeneration process can help to increase the total clothing recycling rate.

"As an applied research center, HKRITA is dedicated to solving real-world problems and enhancing current practices and products," said HKRITA CEO Jake Koh. "We are thrilled to collaborate with Epson to recycle fibers and repurpose them into high-quality yarns. This cross-industrial collaboration is not only reimagining materials but also redefining the future of sustainable production."

Epson Executive Officer Satoshi Hosono, who serves as the deputy general administrative manager of the Global Environmental Strategy Promotion Office and as the deputy general administrative manager of the Technology Development Division, said, "We are extremely pleased with the results that this joint development project has yielded. The selective application of this new wet process and our previously developed dry process should enable fiber to be regenerated from all waste cotton fabrics while reducing environmental impact."

Information about the work under this joint development project will be exhibited at HKRITA's Booth 2415 at Textiles Recycling Expo 2025, held in Brussels, Belgium, from June 4, 2025.

Looking ahead, HKRITA and Epson will continue to combine their advanced technologies to accelerate the adoption of regenerated fibers, contributing to global efforts to solve the challenge of clothing recycling.

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulosic fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, reports a continued improvement in its business performance in the first quarter of 2025, although the recovery of global textile markets remained very slow and uneven during the reporting period. While the positive trend in volumes sold continued, prices remained constant at a low level. Raw material, energy and logistics costs continued to be high.

Revenue grew by 4.8 percent year-on-year to EUR 690.2 mn in the first quarter of 2025. The operating earnings trend largely reflected the positive effects of the performance program. Earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) rose by 118.8 percent year-on-year to EUR 156.1 mn. This also includes positive special effects from the sale of EUR 25.5 mn surplus EU emission certificates and the change in the fair value of biological assets in the amount of EUR 9.2 mn. The EBITDA margin in-creased from 10.8 percent to 22.6 percent. The operating result (EBIT) amounted to EUR 74.3 mn (compared with EUR 1.5 mn in the first quarter of 2024) and the EBIT margin amounted to 10.8 percent (compared with 0.2 percent in the first quarter of 2024). Earnings before tax (EBT) amounted to EUR 35.1 mn (compared with minus EUR 17.8 mn in the first quarter of 2024). The result after tax also improved significantly and was positive again for the first time since the third quarter of 2022 at EUR 31.7 mn (compared with minus EUR 26.9 mn in the first quarter of 2024).

The Lenzing Group’s performance program is designed holistically with the overarching objective of significantly increasing long-term resilience to crises and greater agility in the face of market changes. The program initiatives are primarily aimed at improving EBITDA and at generating free cash flow through enhanced profitability, as well as sustainable cost excellence. Extensive actions are being undertaken to strengthen sales activities, such as the acquisition of new customers for the most important fiber types as well as expansion in previously smaller markets, which are exerting a positive impact in terms of revenue. The Managing Board also anticipates significant cost savings. Savings of over EUR 130 mn were already realized in the 2024 financial year. From the current financial year onwards, Lenzing is aiming for recurring annual cost savings of over EUR 180 mn.

Outlook
The IMF has significantly downgraded its growth forecasts for both this year and next to 2.8 percent and 3.0 percent respectively. The escalation of international trade conflicts and the risk of inflation returning are seen as major threats to global growth.

In times of uncertainty and high living costs, consumers can be expected to remain cautious and thrifty, with negative effects on consumer sentiment and their willingness to spend.

The currency environment is expected to remain volatile in regions relevant to Lenzing.

In the trend-setting market for cotton, analysts expect a slight increase in stocks to around 18.8 mn tonnes in the current 2024/2025 harvest season, according to preliminary estimates.

Lenzing will continue to consistently implement its performance program and expects to leverage further cost potentials and further improve its revenue and margin generation.

Having weighed the aforementioned factors, the Lenzing Group confirms its guidance for the 2025 financial year of year-on-year higher EBITDA.

However, the current tariff dispute and the high level of uncertainty associated with it are dampening expectations and further limiting the visibility of earnings.

In structural terms, Lenzing continues to expect growth in demand for environmentally responsible fibers for the textile and apparel industry, as well as for the hygiene and medical sectors. As a consequence, Lenzing is very well positioned with its strategy and is driving ahead with not only profitable growth in specialty fibers but also the further expansion of its market leadership in the sustainability area.

The Board of Directors of INDA and EDANA met this week to continue progress toward a vision of broad collaboration for the benefit of the industry detailed in a Letter of Intent signed by both organizations in September 2024.
 
This work has progressed to include a recommendation to incorporate a separate tax-exempt federation, the Global Nonwoven Alliance (GNA), with INDA and EDANA as the founding members. The purpose of this federation is to provide international leadership for the representation and responsible advancement of the global nonwovens industry (“Industry”) while respecting and benefiting its Members.
 
By aligning resources and expanding collaboration GNA will deliver a more unified and coordinated strategy toward the issues and opportunities faced by the Industry. GNA will enable enhanced programs and service value, reach and efficiency. These benefits will translate into increased local and regional benefits as well as drive innovation, operational efficiencies, and long-term industry growth.
 
Under the proposed framework, INDA and EDANA will continue to operate as independent legal entities, maintaining their focus on regional markets and advocacy. They will also serve as founding members of GNA committed to leadership, staff and program coordination designed to enhance collaboration on cross-border industry priorities.
 
While some organizational details, transition provisions and approval timelines are being assessed by the INDA and EDANA Boards, both have expressed their strong support for the vision and purpose of GNA and are committed to responsibly advance this initiative.
 
INDA and EDANA remain committed to a transparent process, both for our members and the industry, and will provide regular updates as this work progresses.

On 19-20 February 2025, social partners from the Italian textile and fashion industry met in Rome to deepen their understanding of the upcoming EU legislations and their impact on the Italian textile industry, as well as to further discuss the next step in their effort for a more broad and effective social dialogue. In the context of the EU co-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry, the meeting was also the occasion to draft the Rome Declaration: a joint statement to emphasise the social partners’ strong commitment to work together.

The meeting in Rome brought together representatives of the Italian textile industry, including the Italian employer association (Confindustria Moda), national trade unions (Femca-Cisl, Filctem-Cgil and Uiltec-Uil), regional clusters and companies to discuss the future of the industry. Together, they discussed the proposal for a sectoral industrial policy strategy to present to the Italian Government and the EU Commission for the support, consolidation and development of the textile-clothing supply chain.

The Rome Declaration includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together for a more competitive and fair Italian textile industry. The Declaration also calls upon the Italian Government and the European Union to support the upcoming transformation of the textile and clothing industries, technology and skills upgrades, regional development and just transition.

Says Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary stated that “the Italian textile industry employs around 300,000 workers, or 24% of the European workforce in the textile and clothing sector, making it the largest in Europe. In a context of numerous challenges for the European textile industry, such as unfair globalization, green and digital transition, social dialogue is a real lever for improving working conditions and job security. We are committed alongside our Italian partners to a resilient and attractive textile industry in Italy”.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “Italy represents 36% of the total European textile and fashion industry; it is critically important therefore to maintain a strong Italian textile industry, which can be a benchmark for other countries. Combining quality, creativity and innovation is the recipe for success. This requires a dynamic company spirit, where employers and employees work hand in hand.”

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), a global sustainable chemical producer, posted a marked improvement in quarterly performance as the chemical industry struggles to recover from a prolonged downturn and the company’s management executes their 3 year IVL 2.0 strategy to enhance competitiveness and drive efficiencies.

Indorama Ventures reported Adjusted EBITDA  of $427 million in 3Q24, a gain of 32% YoY, supported by steady volumes, improving industry spreads, and the company’s unstinting focus on optimizing assets and reducing fixed costs. The quarter marks Indorama Ventures’ first YOY improvement for the year, with all three business segments recording earnings growth, following a prolonged industry downcycle marked by customer destocking and suppressed margins. Volumes remained steady for the Combined PET and Fibers segments, while Indovinya posted a robust performance amid a peak season in the Crop Solutions market.

Fibers reported Adjusted EBITDA of $48 million, a gain of 44% YoY, driven by improved industry spreads in Lifestyle and higher volumes in Mobility and Hygiene. Management is focused on reducing fixed costs and improving profitability across the entire portfolio and taking firm action to restore market share in key verticals.

Looking ahead, the global economic outlook remains uncertain amid continued inflation, geopolitical tension, and supply chain disruptions. However, throughout the downcycle, Indorama Ventures’ experienced management team has worked hard to optimize and deleverage the business under their IVL 2.0 evolved strategy to emerge stronger and drive enhanced earnings quality in a new era of sustainable profit growth. In 3Q24, this unrelenting focus delivered fixed-cost savings of $19 million, which will sequentially increase into next year as the benefits are fully realized. Operating rates for the group increased to 82% in the quarter—from 69% previously—as the company completed its planned optimization program for CPET and Indovinya, with Fibers under implementation.

The company’s digital transformation program is accelerating according to schedule following the implementation of the SAP S/4HANA ERP platform as a digital core. North America is already benefiting from an AI-based procurement solution, while the Connected Worker Platform is driving manufacturing excellence. The first sales and supply chain solutions are expected to go-live early next year.

EDANA, the global association for the nonwovens and related industries, concluded its annual Sustainability Forum at the KBR Royal Library of Belgium in Brussels. This year's forum, themed “Building a Sustainable Future Together,” featured a series of keynote addresses, panel discussions, and collaborative sessions focused on environmental responsibility, corporate social responsibility, and circular economy innovations within the nonwovens sector. With an agenda that bridged policy and practice, the Forum highlighted the latest advancements and strategies aimed at tackling climate change, reducing waste, and enhancing sustainability practices.

Keynote Highlights
The forum featured two keynote speakers: Ana Rovzar, Founder of Polygon AR, opened the Forum with a keynote on the accelerating transition to clean energy. In her speech, she discussed the shift from conventional energy investments to renewables, noting a 50% growth in renewables in 2023 alone. “It is accelerating much faster than people think” she remarked, emphasizing that “real progress requires a united front from governments, businesses, and communities to remove regulatory and technological barriers”.

In another keynote, sustainability expert Mike Barry, formerly of Marks & Spencer, stressed the importance of aligning corporate strategy with sustainability. “Citizens see climate change as a top priority, and companies must act boldly to reduce emissions, especially Scope 3”, he said. “Sustainability is now a vital part of brand identity, and consumers expect more transparency and commitment than ever”.

Innovative Industry Perspectives and EU Policy Impacts
Brieuc Lits, Public Affairs Director at EDANA, examined the potential effects of the EU Green Deal on the nonwovens industry. “The EU’s shift towards balancing sustainability with competitiveness will shape not only policy but the very framework within which we operate”, he noted, emphasizing that the sector must adapt to stay competitive and aligned with regulatory expectations.

Lastly, Paolo Haeusermann, Senior Brand Director and Europe Sustainability Leader at Procter & Gamble, shared insights on advancing sustainability in absorbent hygiene products and emphasized the importance of these items. “We are talking about essential products in people’s lives”, he remarked.

Corporate and Product Sustainability: A Deep Dive
Several industry leaders shared insights on integrating sustainability at every level of business. Carsten Ruff from Nitto Advanced Film Solutions discussed the challenges and strategies of embedding sustainability in corporate culture, particularly in a multinational setting. “Sustainability is not a contradiction to industrial applications; it’s a powerful driver of innovation”, he observed.

Martijn Gipmans from Sphera Solutions highlighted the business value of transparency and life-cycle assessments (LCA). “LCA and transparent ESG reporting can catalyse both business growth and environmental progress”, he explained, stressing the importance of integrated sustainability assessments to reduce the carbon footprint of entire product portfolios.

Christophe Morel-Fourrier, Sustainability Leader for Hygiene, Packaging, and Converting Adhesives at Bostik, introduced the Archimedes tool as a strategic asset for Portfolio Sustainability Assessment. “Archimedes allows us to make transparent, informed decisions that align with our long-term sustainability goals”, he explained. He highlighted that this tool helps companies evaluate the sustainability of their product portfolios, empowering them to make impactful choices that support environmental goals.

The Path Forward: Advancing Circularity and Green Innovation
One of the most discussed topics was the industry's transition toward a circular economy. Albert Hammerschmied from Freudenberg Performance Materials highlighted the importance of post-industrial waste in achieving circularity, particularly in the automotive sector. “The potential for nonwovens in the automotive circular economy is vast, but requires industry-wide collaboration”, he commented.

In a session addressing the future of sustainable practices in building insulation, Alexandre Butté of ANDRITZ Laroche emphasized the importance of sustainable materials and collaboration among stakeholders. “The building industry faces unique sustainability challenges, but with innovation and eco-friendly materials, we can bridge the gap between goals and achievable practices”, he said.

Building a Sustainable Health Sector
Danielle van Horzen, Global Marketing Manager for Hygiene and Healthcare at SABIC, discussed advanced recycling solutions in the healthcare sector. Addressing the challenges of medical waste recycling, she stated, “A significant amount of medical waste is not contaminated, offering us opportunities to create circularity in healthcare.” She pointed to the potential for advanced chemical recycling to enable circular models, helping to tackle the pressing issue of sustainable medical waste management.

The day concluded with a session on the circular potential within healthcare. Kristien Depraetere, Sustainability Coordinator at UZ Leuven, outlined sustainable practices in hospitals, from waste reduction to advanced recycling in medical waste. “Healthcare can lead by example in the transition to circularity, yet we need practical and legislative support to address unique industry challenges”.

Visit to the European Commission
The third day of EDANA’s Sustainability Forum 2024 concluded with an insightful visit to the European Commission, offering attendees a unique opportunity to engage directly with policymakers and gain firsthand insights into the EU's sustainability agenda. Hosted at the Charlemagne Building, discussions centered on pivotal elements of the EU Green Deal, including the establishment of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), the scope and implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD), and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.

Featuring presentations from prominent EU officials like Vicenzo Gente and Werner Bosmans, attendees delved into how these regulations are shaping sustainability strategies across industries. Bridging policy and practice emerged as essential, reinforcing the forum’s dedication to aligning industry actions with current EU regulatory frameworks. The session offered a strong conclusion to the event, reinforcing a shared commitment to a sustainable future in collaboration with EU leaders and regulatory bodies.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will present packaging solutions with various sustainability benefits at Fachpack 2024 in Nuremberg, Germany, from September 24-26. The range of exhibited products includes Evolon® microfilament textiles for reusable technical packaging of sensitive industrial parts, bio-based nonwoven materials for desiccant bags, and Evolon® The Food Bag – a solution for food preservation.

Freudenberg’s innovative Evolon® technical packaging product line will emphasize the company’s commitment to sustainability. Evolon® offers enhanced surface protection for various kinds of sensitive industrial parts, including molded plastics and painted components. It is notable for its durability and high recycled PET content. The microfilament fabric serves as an eco-friendly alternative to single-use packaging, particularly in the transportation of sensitive industrial goods such as automotive parts. Evolon®'s protective qualities reduce damage during transport and lower the rejection rate.

Additionally, Evolon® ESD (electro-static discharge) materials address the need for specialized packaging of sensitive electronic components by providing customizable permanent electro-static discharge protection in additional to surface protection.

Evolon® The Food Bag
Freudenberg will also be exhibiting a packaging product for food preservation in the home. Evolon® The Food Bag extends the shelf life of vegetables, fruits and bread by providing great moisture and climate management. The innovative bag was a finalist in the 2020 Zu gut für die Tonne!  prize (“Too Good For The Bin”), part of the National Strategy for Food Waste Reduction launched by Germany’s Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture (BMEL).

Sustainable nonwoven materials for desiccant bags
A further highlight at Fachpack 2024 will be nonwoven materials for manufacturing desiccant bags. In addition to conventional fully synthetic materials, Freudenberg’s product range includes sustainable bio-based wetlaid nonwovens which are binder-free and industrially compostable.

Lenzing Group announces the appointment of Kit Ping Au-Yeung as the Executive Vice President of Commercial Textiles with immediate effect. This strategic leadership appointment highlights Lenzing’s commitment to strengthen its integral leadership roles and fuel the growth of its core textile businesses. Kit Ping succeeds Florian Heubrandner, who will take on a new role as Executive Vice President of Filament to reinforce the expansion of Lenzing’s global filament business.

In her new role, Kit Ping will be leading the expansion strategy and development of Lenzing’s textiles business, which comprises of fiber offerings under the flagship TENCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ brands. With decades of experience working with partners across the textile value chain, Kit Ping will continue to foster the development of Lenzing’s textile business through driving innovative fiber and application solutions for customers, and ultimately bring benefits to consumers. Prior to joining Lenzing, Kit Ping held several regional and global commercial and operational leadership roles at Coats Group, as well as more recently at Amann Group. Her experience will add value to Lenzing’s core business, affirming Lenzing’s dedication to driving a positive impact across the industry ecosystem.

From 1 July 2024 onward, Florian Heubrandner will focus on driving the strategy and expansion of Lenzing’s filament business with his established expertise in the value chain. He will work alongside Lenzing’s Research and Development and Engineering teams to establish filament as a separate business with a strong focus on innovation and growth.

HeiQ AeoniQ Holding, a subsidiary of HeiQ Group, is appointing Julien Born as its CEO, leveraging his extensive executive leadership and profound textile industry expertise cultivated in prestigious organizations such as DuPont, KOCH Industries, and The LYCRA Company, where he served as CEO since 2021. Julien Born will champion the growth of the cellulosic filament fiber HeiQ AeoniQ™.

The HeiQ AeoniQ™ technology is poised for commercial production at the inaugural manufacturing facility in Portugal by the close of 2025. The just concluded €5M acquisition of land and buildings, within a 2-year project total investment of €80M, marks a pivotal milestone for the 15,000m2 facility in Maia, Porto. Situated strategically in Portugal's textile hub and a mere 20 minutes from a major commercial port, this facility is poised to catalyze the scale-up phase of the business, going from pilot manufacture to mass production when it wants to compete at full-scale on cost and performance with fossil fuel-based fibers.

HeiQ intends to consolidate the Group’s current and future activities in Portugal at the newly acquired site. This includes Shared Service Center functions as well as the Innovation Hub for the HeiQ Textile & Flooring business unit.

The recent addition of Julien Born to lead the charge follows the nomination of Robert van de Kerkhof to the HeiQ Board, a seasoned executive with extensive textile experience holding positions as CCO, CSO, Board member of Lenzing Plc, and Chairman of CIRFS, the European Man-Made Fibres Association. Robert will also serve as the Chairman of the HeiQ AeoniQ Holding Board.

HeiQ AeoniQ Holding, established as an independent subsidiary to attract new investors, value-chain partners, and brands, embarks on an ambitious multi-year scale-up strategy. This strategy involves integrating diverse sources of bio-derived feedstock and hyper-scaling cellulosic filament fiber production capacity over the next decade, targeting industries such as apparel, footwear, automotive, home textiles, and aeronautics.

Perlon® – The Filament Company, a manufacturer of synthetic filaments headquartered in Munderkingen, Germany, celebrated the opening of its new plant in Goa, India. The event marked a significant milestone in Perlon®‘s global expansion strategy and underlines the company’s commitment to growth and innovation.

The plant in Goa was made possible by the recent acquisition of Shaun Filaments, a renowned Indian manufacturer of filaments. The integration of the Shaun Filaments production facility into the Perlon® Group not only offers the opportunity to strengthen market presence, but also to expand capacities and improve production processes.

The Perlon® plant in Goa will play a key role in the production of synthetic filaments for various industries, including paper, technical textiles, brushes, cosmetics and dental care. The acquisition of Shaun Filaments brings not only experienced professionals but also established production lines and technologies to the company.

Florian Kisling, CEO of Perlon®, expressed his enthusiasm about the successful purchase: “The opening of this plant in Goa is a crucial step in our global growth strategy. We are proud to strengthen our presence in Asia while delivering the quality and innovation that Perlon® is known for worldwide.”