From the Sector

ALLIED Feather + Down (AF+D), a leader in high performance, ethically sourced, and recycled down, announced that their new 1000 Fill Power ExpeDRY down jacket is a 2024 ISPO Award winner.

Created in partnership with Japanese-based textile trading company MN Inter-Fashion, the jacket is made from an extremely rare, traceable 1000 fill power down treated with ALLIED's industry-first ExpeDRY water-resistant, chemical-free technology that more effectively speeds drying via FUZE® Technology’s proprietary gold microparticle treatment. The fabric by Pertex, one of the lightest textiles available, makes up the shell and liner.

With the exceptional lightness of the 1000-fill power down and extremely light weight 5d Pertex fabric, AF+D has succeeded in creating a parka that feels like wearing a cloud. The ExpeDRY technology, which is quickly replacing other water resistant treatments as the industry standard for extreme performance in down insulation, ensures this jacket will remain lofty in any urban or mountain setting, no matter the conditions.

The award-winning 1000 Fill Power jacket joins a growing line of ALLIED apparel that is specifically designed with a look to the future, where the lines between fashion and performance outerwear continue to blur. The complete ALLIED collection is currently available for sale in Japan and Europe. 

eVent^®️ Fabrics, a global leader in waterproof and breathable laminates, announced the hiring of three key team members to assist with growing demand for the brand’s expanding line of performance laminates and recent expansion into the South Korean market. Founded in 1999, the company impressed the industry with the first air-permeable 100% waterproof membrane and continues to innovate with sustainable, high-performance textiles. eVent is globally recognized for its breathable waterproof solutions and commitment to reliable, high-performance laminates.

Recent hires include Bartosz Lassak to the US sales team and Xie Yi to engineer the next generation of eVent textiles. For the recent expansion into Korea, Terry Kim will assist as eVent’s Korean Market Consultant.

eVent’s recent expansion into the Korean market includes a new strategic partnership with GEO International Co., LTD, a leading Korean company in the textile industry. This collaboration will introduce eVent’s high-performance waterproof breathable laminate solutions for apparel, footwear, and accessories to the Korean market, catering to the increasing demand for premium outdoor and performance apparel.

eVent’s newest team members include:

Bartosz Lassak – Senior Sales Manager
Based in Washington D.C., Bartosz is a Senior Sales Manager for the Eastern U.S. region and will help expand eVent’s sales footprint as new customers are added to the eVent portfolio. Bartosz brings 20 years of global industry experience and has a deep knowledge of outerwear materials, end use applications, and component brand sales. Most recently, Bartosz was a Territory Sales and Marketing Manager for Primaloft, managing ingredient brand distribution in the UK, Germany, Eastern Europe, Russia, Turkey, and North America.
 
Xie Yi – Textile Engineer
Having recently graduated with a double Master’s Degree in Textile Materials and Product Design from the highly regarded Donghua University, Xie joins the eVent team full time as a Textile Engineer. Xie will be integral as eVent continues to enhance product strategy and new product introductions. Throughout her academic career, Xie worked as a Production Assistant for Oya Jacquard Belt limited and a Research and Development Assistant at Atelier LUMA.

Terry Kim – Senior Consultant in Korea
Terry will support the expansion of eVent’s global footprint into Korean markets and assist with marketing efforts in the Korean market as well. Terry has significant experience in the industry including 20 years working in roles such as Sales Director and New Business Development Director in his time at Gore-Tex. In his most recent role, Terry was the Managing Director of Fabric Division for Gore-Tex.

Terrot Textilmaschinen GmbH announces its participation in Febratex 2024, the premier event for the textile industry in Brazil and across Latin America.

At this year’s event, Terrot will exhibit the Pilotelli JVCE-4 machine, demonstrating their commitment to advancing textile technology and supporting the industry’s growth. The machine model is known for its high production capabilities in outerwear textiles and shows great results in knitting single-jersey fabrics, including plain single (up to E44), piqué or two-thread fleece.

ALLIED Feather + Down, global leaders in high performance, ethically sourced down, and MN Inter-Fashion, manufacturers of high performance luxury outerwear, announced that the ALLIED Feather + Down outerwear collection will be available to the European market.  

Originally released only in Japan, the exclusive collection will be available to select European boutique retailers for the fall 2024 season. Limited to a few hundred pieces, this line will showcase the breadth of ALLIED’s down offering, from their industry-leading ExpeDRY down insulation to their exceedingly high performance 1000 fill power down. It will also include MN Inter-Fashion’s experience delivering quality design and craftsmanship to some of the best known fashion houses in the world.

Designed, cut, and sewn by MN Inter-Fashion in Japan using materials from ALLIED and Pertex, the jackets shall represent a collision between cutting edge fashion aesthetics and materials normally reserved for highly technical outerwear. The result is a unique garment with a sophisticated urban look blended with performance that rivals the most technical outdoor apparel available. 

"ITA Aachen and ITA Augsburg are part of the ITA Group International Centre for Sustainable Textiles. Experience our textile innovations at two exhibition booths," explains ITA Institute Director Professor Dr. Thomas Gries. "See our ring spinning tester at booth H3-B304, which spins recycled fibres sustainably and individually in a previously impossible fineness. In addition, there is digital yarn monitoring, which enables new market potentials. Get an idea of the Recycling Atelier of ITA Augsburg at booth H3-A207 and see the textile cycle from used textile to solution steps for industrial implementation together with industry partners. Join us on the Walk4Recycling and follow the path from used textile to a new knitted pullover on a tour of the trade fair. This is how we live up to our claim as the ITA Group: sustainable - digital - individual."

ITA Aachen - Digital ring spinning tester for recycled fibres enables spinning of fine yarns with high recycled fibres content
The Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (ITA) will be exhibiting a digital ring spinning tester, which spins recycled fibres directly and conventionally with a particularly high content of 60-70 percent. Up to now, recycled yarns have mainly been rotor-spun in this blend ratio. This results in rather coarse yarns and is not suitable for finer textiles such as outerwear. Ring spinning of recycled yarns now enables the spinning of finer yarns and thus a higher application level for recycled materials.

A unique selling point of the ITA ring spinning tester is the simultaneous spinning in the direct spinning process from the sliver and in the classic ring spinning process. For this purpose, the strength and elongation of the spun yarn are determined online and digitally for the first time. The real-time measurement allows process parameters and yarn properties to be adjusted iteratively and quickly. The ring spinning tester was upgraded from an existing tester to Industry 4.0 standard and is operated via a tablet. Operation via tablet enables the adjustment of process parameters including online quality monitoring remotely from anywhere in the world.
 
For this purpose, the ring spinning tester is also able to produce fine ring spun yarns. These yarns made from recycled material opens up a multitude of further fields of application for woven and knitted goods. Now, for example, clothing and technical textiles can be made from recycled material, the production of which was not possible before - such as outerwear made from recycled material. The development of new industries and fields of application opens up new market potential for recycled yarns - also and especially for processing in Europe. This creates the opportunity to preserve key technologies and jobs in cost-intensive locations.

ITA Augsburg - Recycling Atelier: Walk4Recycling
The Recycling Atelier of the Institut für Textiltechnik Augsburg gGmbH on stand H3-A207 presents the textile recycling from used textiles into new products via the various process steps and, together with the industrial partners, opens up solution paths for industrial implementation.

Under the headline "Walk4Recycling", a tour of the fair shows the cycle of used textiles from used knitwear into a new knitted pullover via a ring yarn made from a blend of 65 percent recycled cotton and 35 percent virgin polyester. The key innovation here is the high proportion of recycled fibres from post-consumer textiles for a ring yarn of this fineness. Today, mainly coarse rotor yarns for low-quality textiles are spun from these materials. The industrial partners participating in the Walk4Recycling are partners of the Recycling Atelier and contribute with their technologies to the fact that fibre material from old clothes can be processed in various process stages into a yarn of new value and high-quality ready-made garments.

The Walk4Recycling offers visitors the opportunity to experience a complete recycling cycle with the numerous process stages from tearing the old textiles, preparing and spinning the fibres and knitting a new jumper live during the fair. Get detailed information on the mechanical recycling of clothing via QR code, website and flyer about the participating exhibitors and their machines and technologies. A short movie will give you additional insights into the various processes involved in the production of the jumper.

The Japanese textile brand ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei Advance continues its eco-high tech path and joins ISPO, the influential fashion and textile fair dedicated to sportwear and athleisure-wear, as part of an Asahi Kasei space within the ISPO Brandnew area, presenting its AW 2024/2025 & SS2024 collections, made of high-tech fabrics implementing new-generation values, with the aim of keeping nature, body and mind in harmony.

2022 is a special time for Asahi Kasei as it celebrates its 100th anniversary. This year at ISPO Munich (28-30^th November), Asahi Kasei Group present its innovation world featuring three of its brands: ECOSENSOR™, ROICA™ and RespiGard™.
 
ECOSENSOR™ presents 47 new references that meet the needs of the contemporary consumer, such as durability, wellbeing and performance. Being capable of combining active climate control, exquisite touch, lightness and comfort with sustainable values, ECOSENSOR™ stands out as a unique eco-high-tech performance proposition in its market. The collection covers the different market applications with 3 items for INNERWEAR, 1 for OUTERWEAR, 13 for SPORT KNIT and 30 for SPORT WOVENS.

New this season is the application of the RespiGard™ by Polypore unique membrane designed for outdoor apparel. Its innovative pore structure is too small for water droplets to penetrate but features high porosity that allows for airflow and moisture evaporation.

In order to show at best the performances and possible applications of the fabrics made with RespiGard™, ECOSENSOR™ will feature at its ISPO space an ad hoc created outfit by the outerwear brand.

Furthermore, the majority of ECOSENSOR™ fabrics are made with sustainable ingredients which are certified by international certifications such as GRS and RCS through a traceable and transparent production process and supply chain.  100% of the stretch articles (representing 35% of the collection) are made with ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei, the recycled stretch yarn made from pre-consumer materials. Even the dyeing and finishing phases - key moments for performancewear - have been certified by international labels such as bluesign® or OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.

The Japanese textile manufacturer ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei Advance presents its SS 2023 collection, made of high-tech fabrics implementing new-generation values, with the aim of keeping nature, body and mind in harmony.

ECOSENSOR™ presents 40 new references that meet the needs of the contemporary consumer, such as durability, wellbeing and performance. Being capable of combining active climate control, exquisite touch, lightness and comfort with sustainable values, ECOSENSOR™ stands out as a unique eco-high-tech performance proposition in its market. The collection covers the different market applications with 7 items for INNERWEAR, 2 for OUTERWEAR, 17 for SPORT KNIT and 14 for SPORT WOVEN.

Furthermore, all of ECOSENSOR™ fabrics are made with sustainable materials which are certified by internatinal certification such as GRS, RCS or self-certification by each yarn supplier, through a traceable and transparent production process and supply chain.
100% of the stretch articles (representing 35% of the collection) are made with ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei, the recycled stretch yarn made from pre-consumer materials.

The main fibers are GRS certified recycled polyester and recycled polyamide, but the collection also features some blends, such as in Bemberg™, the high-tech yarn born from the transformation of cotton linters through a circular, transparent and traceable process with a precious hand, optimal moisture management characteristics,  whose end of life guarantees its biodegradability.
Even the dyeing and finishing phases have been certified by international labels such as bluesign® or OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.

Bemberg™ is teaming up with MagnoLab, a network of Biella-based companies apt to carry out projects related to sustainability and circular economy, to create and display T-shirts that combine environmental responsibility and aesthetic research at the 102nd edition of Pitti Uomo.

Bemberg™ is used in shirts, cocktail dresses, dust coats, coordinates, outerwear and more by international brands operating in the fashion and luxury industries. To demonstrate its journey and evolution in contemporary style, Bemberg™ has collaborated with MagnoLab to develop a project that resulted in contemporary cut I-shirts presented both in sheer and blends with other certified fibers, including GOTS cottons and RWS wools, capable of enhancing both the hand of the final garment and the performance of the yarn.

The project conceived for Pitti Uomo 102 stems from the spirit of Bemberg™ and fits perfectly into the philosophy of MagnoLab, whose mission is to carry out projects related to environmental responsibility through a joint and participatory approach of partners, and to create value by developing innovative products and processes with rapid testing cycles, according to a lean management model.

• Turkish circular knitting market offers prospects in turbulent times

After a four-year, Covid-related break the German circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. is exhibiting with its Turkish representative Mayer Mümessillik (MMÜ) once more at the important International Textile Machinery Exhibition (ITM) in Istanbul. At Booth 713 in Hall 8, Mayer & Cie. will present three machines: the D4-2.2 X interlock machine, the OV 3.2 QCe for double jersey structures and the MV 4 3.2 II for single jersey fabrics. For the Mayer & Cie. and MMÜ team the focus will be on in-person contacts with customers, suppliers and partners. Despite the tense international situation both the manufacturer and its representative are positive about the medium-term outlook for the Turkish market.

Turkey is a market with prospects
“The challenges that the global economy faces are at present enormously wide-ranging, of course,” says Mayer & Cie.’s Turkey specialist Stefan Bühler. “The Russian invasion of the Ukraine, supply chain outages, shortages of raw materials and skyrocketing energy prices all create uncertainty.” And then there is galloping inflation in Turkey and elections in 2023. Yet despite, and in part because of, this state of affairs Bühler and Kahraman Güveri, CEO of Mayer & Cie.’s Turkish representative MMÜ, hold a positive view of the market outlook for the years ahead. Large orders, especially for standard products, are on the increase, Kahraman Güveri explains. That leads to new investments, new companies and a growing demand for refurbished machines that then need to be replaced by new machines elsewhere. And former commission merchants are now enterprises in their own right.

“Apart from that, Turkey benefits from its proximity to Europe, transport routes are manageable,” says Stefan Bühler. “This location advantage attracts brand manufacturers who together with their orders bring new approaches, new designs and new technologies into the country.” And Turkey’s already very highly developed textiles sector benefits too. That, says Kahraman Güveri, is why one can be confident for the next few years, “at least for as long as nothing unforeseen happens”.

Established machines with that something special: OV 3.2 QCe for double jersey structures
The portfolio of machines that Mayer & Cie. is exhibiting at the ITM is tried, trusted and popular. The OV 3.2 QCe is a specialist for interlock fabrics and double jersey structures that it knits in both filament and synthetic fibre yarns. With a conversion kit the OV 3.2 QCe also qualifies as a producer of 8-lock structures, spacer fabrics and fine gauges. The machine is available in a choice of three frames: from open-width and industrial to giant frame. Stefan Bühler, regional sales manager for Turkey, has this to say: “Not for nothing has the OV 3. 2 QCe been one of our most popular machines for years. It is mainly used for sportswear and for leisure- and outerwear.” In Istanbul the OV 3.2 QCe on show will be a 30-inch, E40-gauge model.

D4-2.2 X for fine rib and interlock fabrics
The double-jersey D4-2.2 X is an obvious choice for knitting fine rib fabrics of up to E28 gauge. Spacer and interlock fabrics are also part of the machine’s established repertoire. And it can produce elastomeric plating in both cylinder and dial cam. No matter which of these tasks is assigned to the D4-2.2 X, it performs it with impressive productivity.

MV 4 3.2 II for flexibility in the single jersey sector
In the single jersey sector, the long-established German firm delivers a literally fine solution. The MV 4 3.2 II on show at the ITM knits to an E38 gauge. The machine can also be supplied for gauges from E14 to E60. It is, in addition, highly flexible, with a repertoire that ranges from piqué and double piqué to one-thread fleece and smooth single jersey.

SHIMA SEIKI ITALIA S.p.A., Italian subsidiary of leading Japanese computerized knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD., will exhibit at the 90th edition of the Pitti Immagine Filati exhibition in Florence, Italy. Products exhibited will include the N.SVR®123SP computerized flat knitting machine as well as APEXFiz™ design software.

The N.SVR®123SP computerized knitting machine features a special loop presser bed, capable of producing hybrid inlay fabrics with both knit and weave characteristics. Demand for such novel fabrics are very high across a wide range of applications, from fashion apparel to sportswear, innerwear, outerwear, uniforms and other functional clothing, as well as home furnishing and technical textiles. Shown in 18G at the SHIMA SEIKI booth, N.SVR®123SP will also feature the special i-Plating option, capable of alternating yarn colors in any pattern, producing jacquard-like designs using plain jersey stitch. Plating can be performed within the same course and for individual needles. In combination with the loop presser and spring-type moveable sinker system even greater diversity in knit design is possible. An SVR®123SP machine in 14G with i-Plating option will also be on display at the booth of yarn spinner IAFIL S.p.A. as well.

APEXFiz™ is subscription-based design software that maintains the proven functions that have made SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX series design systems so popular with fashion designers. Installed on personal computers, those strengths are now enhanced with the added versatility to adapt to different work styles and business environments including teleworking and telecommuting. APEXFiz™ software supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. APEXFiz™ thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.

APEXFiz™ along with SHIMA SEIKI’s yarnbank™ digital yarn web platform are featured at a special section launched at the previous session of Pitti Filati no. 89 called Pitti Studios. Pitti Studios is a content production service that yarn companies exhibiting at Pitti Filati can use for their own promotion. Yarn companies provide a piece of yarn, which is digitized on yarnbank™ and used to simulate photorealistic fabric on APEXFiz™. This is then processed by a creative studio specializing in digital content to provide static and animated 3D virtual representations. The process shows how to use the latest DX tools to provide accurate representation of a finished garment without having to produce any fabric, converting the conventionally wasteful process of sample-making into a sustainable one.

Continuing from past editions of Pitti Filati are knit samples produced in collaboration with Italian designer Vittorio Branchizio.