From the Sector

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, will showcase innovations for the denim industry at Sustainability Talks in Istanbul, Turkey and Denim Première Vision in Milan, Italy next month.

Specifically, Archroma will highlight its DENIM HALO pretreatment and dyeing process for laser-friendly, easily washable denim. It will also join its partners Kipaş Denim and Jeanologia to launch a joint hangtag for the upcoming Kipaş Denim Contra Denim collection, which is based on the DENIM HALO concept.

“Denim continues to be an incredibly exciting market segment, with brands and mills pushing the limits in terms of sustainability and aesthetics to give consumers the iconic look and feel of denim in a more environmentally conscious way,” Umberto De Vita, Archroma’s Market Segment Director - Denim, said. “Guided by our PLANET CONSCIOUS+ approach, we develop solutions that not only help our customers navigate the shift to cleaner chemistries and resource-saving processes, but improve their productivity and competitiveness too.”

Innovative DENIM HALO process
The DENIM HALO process combines Archroma’s new DIRSOL® RD special pretreatment with its DENISOL® indigo dyes, including an aniline-free formulation, or DIRESUL® sulfur black, sulfur blue or sulfur colors dyestuffs to achieve a ring-dyeing effect. This superficial dyeing creates laser-friendly denim for popular worn or distressed washdown effects while reducing yarn shrinkage and improving garment tensile strength.

Crucially, the new process also delivers a substantially reduced environmental footprint compared to industry-standard denim finishing. It avoids processes like manual hand scraping or potassium permanganate spraying and helps reduce caustic soda use in sulfur dyeing, which lowers the effluent load and improves weaving efficiency.

Low-impact Contra Denim collection
Archroma will also join Kipaş Denim, a leader in integrated textile production based in Turkey, and Jeanologia, a sustainable textile solutions company, to launch a hangtag program for the upcoming Kipaş Denim Contra Denim collection.

Based on DENIM HALO, the Contra Denim concept is a dyeing and finishing process that enables brands to create stunning and long-lasting distressed looks and design effects, such as intricate patterns, whiskering and fades, through cleaner processes that save water and energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions. The hangtag will enable partner brands to communicate these benefits to consumers at the point of sale, nurturing transparency and trust.

The Archroma team at Sustainability Talks 2024
Sustainability Talks is an intensive one-day event that emphasizes networking and collaboration to solve the textile industry’s toughest challenges through sustainable solutions (Archroma in Turkey at Booth 20 at the Hilton Istanbul Bomonti Conference Center for Sustainability Talks on December 3, 2024).

Archroma at Denim Première Vision 2024
Denim Première Vision is bringing the global denim community to Milan, Italy in December to explore denim trends, markets and culture through the lens of eco-responsibility. Meet our experts Umberto De Vita and Julio Perales to learn more about our denim solutions. (Archroma in Milan at Booth C14 at Superstudio Più for Denim Première Vision on December 4-5, 2024).

Flat knitting technology company SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, is participating in the ITMA Asia + CITME 2024 exhibition in Shanghai, China. In line with its exhibition concept at ITMA 2023 and ITMA Asia + CITME 2022 held last year, SHIMA SEIKI continues the concept for this year’s exhibition: “SHIMA SEIKI Reborn".

SHIMA SEIKI Reborn represents a return to origin, for the company and for its products, and a renewal of passion and commitment toward innovation. The concept is manifested in physical form as the long-awaited production version of the SWG-XR® next-generation WHOLEGARMENT® machine, introduced to much acclaim as prototypes at ITMA 2023 in Milan, Italy and ITMA Asia + CITME 2022 exhibits last year.

Of the 5 knitting machines SHIMA SEIKI is exhibiting at its 350 sq. meter booth in Hall 4, Stand F01, 4 are WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines, 2 of which are the new SWG-XR® machines, shown. 2 other WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines and 1 prototype computerized flat knitting machine round out the machine exhibit. Approximately 270 knit items are on display as proposals for knitted applications in various fields ranging from fashion to shoes, bags and accessories.

In addition to machine technology, SHIMA SEIKI's computer graphic design system and software are shown with their latest software upgrades that feature significant improvements in knit programming, 3D functions and speed, as well as generative AI functions. Demonstrations are available for a comprehensive fashion tech solutions package based on realistic virtual sampling and supported by various digital solutions and web services.

Based on customer feedback as well as industry and media response at ITMA 2023 and ITMA Asia + CITME 2022, SHIMA SEIKI's exhibit is likely to garner much attention at ITMA Asia + CITME 2024 as well.

About 50 Italian companies will exhibit at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024, taking place from October 14 to 18 in Shanghai. With an area of around 1,400 square meters, Italy ranks among the top exhibiting countries, as in previous editions. 29 Italian exhibitors will show their innovations within the National Sector Groups, organized by ACIMIT (Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) and Italian Trade Agency.

ITMA ASIA + CITME show has always been the main showcase for textile machinery manufacturers in Asia, that absorbs over 50% of global exports. Moreover China is the world’s largest market in the sector (the value of imported textile machinery in 2023 was around 2.6 billion euro).

For Italian manufacturers as well, the Chinese market is the top foreign destination. In 2023, Italian sales to China amounted to 222 million euro. In the first six months of this year, exports to China increased by 38%, while the performance of total Italian exports declined slightly in the same period.

“We hope that the recovery of the Chinese market, observed in this first half of the year, may be an early indication of a more general upturn in global demand for machinery,” says ACIMIT President Marco Salvadè. Over the past few years, demand from Chinese companies has turned to technologies that combine savings in production costs and environmental friendliness, as also demanded by brands and end consumers. “Today, Italian manufacturers can offer highly customized solutions that are particularly suited to making textile production more sustainable,” confirms Salvadè. “The Chinese textile machinery market is rapidly evolving, and the level of innovation in the technology requested has risen due to the growing international competition that even Chinese companies face. In Shanghai, Italian manufacturers will display their latest innovations, essential for making textile production more efficient and sustainable.”

Haelixa has partnered with Italian fashion brand OVS for the second consecutive year. This collaboration aims to mark and trace cotton grown in Italy, ensuring trust throughout the supply chain.

Haelixa has integrated its DNA markers into the existing operations for OVS's cotton. The cotton is grown in Italy and marked with the DNA markers at the gin, close to the farm. The fibers are tested during the entire manufacturing process, ensuring that the cotton used in this OVS collection is ethically and sustainably sourced. This partnership is a testament to their commitment to promoting responsible and transparent practices in the fashion industry, providing customers with the assurance of the cotton's origin.

Traceability has become crucial in the fashion industry, with consumers demanding more information about the products they purchase. By partnering with Haelixa, OVS continues to meet this demand and set a new standard for cotton in the industry. This alliance will benefit customers and the farmers in Italy, giving them fair recognition for their work.

Simone Colombo, Head of Corporate Sustainability, says, “In 2024, we have continued with Swiss DNA Traceability supplier Haelixa in marking and tracing our OVS Cotone Italiano for the second year. Our goal is to approach 5% of our cotton requirements from cultivation in Italy within a few years.”

The collaboration between Haelixa and OVS has boosted the transparency of their supply chain. With the help of traceability provided by Haelixa, OVS is working towards improving its products' social and environmental impacts. OVS is firmly committed to sustainable and ethical practices and aspires to enhance its operations yearly. The partnership with Haelixa is a testament to their dedication to improving traceability in the fashion industry.

In the second quarter of 2024, the order index for Italian textile machinery, as reported by the Economics Department of ACIMIT – the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a decline compared to the period 2023 April-June (-17%). In value terms, the index stood at 49.8 points (base 2021=100).

This result is completely due to the decrease recorded in foreign markets (-22%), where orders represent 86% of the total. Conversely, in Italy, there was a 25% recovery compared to the second quarter of 2023. The absolute value of the index in foreign markets was 48.8 points, while in Italy it was 57.3 points. In the second quarter, the order backlog reached 4.3 months of assured production. Additionally, ACIMIT’s survey shows that in the first six months of 2024 the utilization rate of production capacity by Italian manufacturers was 61%. This percentage is expected to rise to 64% in the second half of the year.

Marco Salvadè, president of ACIMIT, stated: “The order index for the second quarter shows a clear slowdown abroad compared to last year. This decline highlights the high uncertainty due to the difficult geopolitical situation“. The confirmation of what is indicated by the ACIMIT index also comes from Italian export figures, updated to the first quarter of 2024. Excluding China and Egypt, the main foreign markets show a general decline in demand for textile machinery, not just Italian one.

Source Fashion, which takes place at Olympia London from 14th - 16th July 2024, continues to grow its presence of international exhibitors from new sourcing regions, including representation from southeast Asia and Africa.

The first Malaysian manufacturer to be represented at the trade fair is Kualesa Apparel. Kualesa started as a small seed of an idea, with a big ambition and an even bigger purpose. The brand has evolved from a simple set of values to a producer of great-looking and comfortable bamboo apparel that’s challenging fast fashion. Kualesa offer flexible MOQ’s ranging from 250 pieces to high production capacity of 50,000 pieces a month.

Fairs and More Inc from the Philippines returns to the show for a third time, bringing a pavilion of Filipino manufacturers and makers.

The show also welcomes its first ever Nigerian manufacturer, Beyond Clothing. Beyond Clothing is a garment factory, that specialises in crafting premium custom clothing, branded uniforms, corporate uniforms, and sublimated t-shirts. The range also includes promotional apparel, workwear, and PPE personal protective apparel for hospitals.

Returning to Source Fashion, Texpro Corp (a branch of Kassab Group) from Tunisia has grown rapidly to become a fully integrated apparel manufacturer certified with GOTS, BSCI, BCI, and OCS covering the complete production cycle focusing on sustainability through the process from fabrics to manufacturing, washing and dying. The company specialises in denim and flat garment manufacturing and the product portfolio includes casual dresses, shirts, jackets, pants and coats for men, women and kids. Texpro Corp are increasingly partnering with customers to ensure high consistent quality on the products and invest in innovation to help improve the environmental impact by consistently delivering responsibly produced products.

Visitors will also discover International Trade Center (ITC), who is returning with a pavilion that includes a debut area for Ghanian producers. With manufacturing in Ethiopia, Shints Co Ltd. is a global producer of high-performance outdoor clothing and camping equipment.

A strong contingency from Europe includes over 25 UK exhibitors, representation from France, Italy and Spain, and a selection of Portuguese exhibitors including Ttantos Textiles, FLM Textil, SMSenra and Lagofra.

Nearly 30 countries, including Peru, Cambodia, Pakistan, Hong Kong, Italy, and Greece will be represented. Large pavilions from China, India and Turkey have also been confirmed, as well as Tanzania, Madagascar and Nepal.

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel Europe (Freudenberg) has reached a further sustainability milestone: The new Freudenberg Apparel Competence Center in Sant’Omero, Italy, successfully completed the 4sustainability® Chemical Management protocol (4s CHEM) recently and reached the Advanced Level. The aim of the protocol is to progressively eliminate toxic and hazardous chemicals and related risks throughout the production process.

Competence center for interlinings
Freudenberg opened its Apparel Competence Center in Sant’Omero in May 2023. The factory in Italy is an innovative competence center that coats and finishes nonwoven, woven and weft interlinings for apparel customers in Europe.
Freudenberg has now taken the next logical step: as part of a comprehensive audit, the Apparel Competence Center has implemented ZDHC guidelines in its production process. To achieve this, Freudenberg called in the experts from Process Factory, a consultancy that specializes in sustainability topics. With their support, Freudenberg’s Sant’Omero site has reached the Advanced level of the 4sustainability® Chemical Management protocol (4s CHEM), in line with the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Program.
Implementation is controlled annually based on this protocol and offers companies in the fashion industry a degree of reliability. It guarantees structured, fully transparent procedures, regular monitoring, and continuous control of Freudenberg’s production processes.  

ZDHC
By demonstrating its rejection of environmentally harmful chemicals and substances, the Apparel Competence Center shows that Freudenberg gives top priority to taking responsibility for people and the environment.
The aim of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Foundation and its globally recognized Roadmap to Zero Program is to eliminate the release of toxic chemicals in the textile and fashion industry’s supply chain based on the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL).
By applying the 4s CHEM protocol, the production site in Sant’Omero is sending a clear signal to the fashion industry that Freudenberg products meet the highest quality standards and are also safe and environmentally friendly.

The Directorship of Marchi & Fildi spa and Filidea srl announced the death of their President Massimo Marchi, in a tragic road accident on 11th March. His loss represents a moment of enormous sorrow for the Group and for the community to which Massimo Marchi contributed with such generosity and constructive spirit.

Massimo Marchi was an outstanding figure in the Italian and Biellese textile world.
Until his death, he was a member of the Council of Euratex, Vice President of SMI Sistema Moda Italia with responsibility for Research and Innovation, member of the Committee for Coordination and Management of Cluster Made In, and Councillor of the Association Tessile e Salute. His legacy will always be remembered and celebrated by those who had the privilege of knowing him and working with him.

Nearly 8,000 international visitors came to meet the 1,300 exhibitors at Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris. This year's event was enhanced by a boldly designed showcase in the heart of Paris.
The offer was broader, more diversified and more accessible. Despite increasing requirements in the industry, visitor numbers remained stable. It was on these two objective notes that the latest edition of the Texworld and Apparel Sourcing Paris trade shows for the fashion industry came to a close, held from 5 to 7 February 2024 at the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. During these 3 days, nearly 8,000 visitors came to meet 1,300 weaving and clothing companies from 25 countries on the two levels of Hall 7 (7.2 and 7.3).

Visitors: a Euro-Mediterranean Top 5
This unprecedented concentration of international companies in Europe, which exceeds in number that of February 2019, is a reminder of the central role of European markets for the global fashion industry. This position is confirmed by the weight of buyers from the Euromed zone in the visitor structure: Top 5 is concentrated around buyers from France (20% of the total, up sharply on 2023), the UK (8.3%), Italy (7.9%), Turkey (7.2%) and Spain (6.8%). This Parisian event is proving to be an essential point of contact between designers, buyers and suppliers of fabrics or finished products.

Making the offer ever more accessible “Despite the slowdown in the clothing market, Europe remains a major market for textile and finished goods manufacturers" explains Frédéric Bougeard, President of Messe Frankfurt France. “For some players, it is becoming a strategic market to offset the uncertainties weighing on the Russian and American markets" he continues. Our mission is to fulfill our role as a market place, to adapt to these changes and to make the international offer more and more accessible." The February event also highlighted near sourcing. Nine Ukrainian companies grouped together under the banner of the Ukrainian Association of Textile and Leather Industry Companies (Ukrlegprom), as well as Bulgarian, Italian and Dutch companies, were able to take advantage of the show's visibility to include their expertise in the sourcing plans of French and European buyers.

Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, a new name for our trade fairs
Reflecting the adaptation of Messe Frankfurt France's strategy to changes in the market, Texworld Evolution Paris is changing its name to Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris. This move reflects developments in fashion sourcing and the expansion of brand universes. A growing number of buyers now want to be able to select materials, while also sourcing finished products directly to complement collections or expand their range. The new name is accompanied by a new dual baseline - Weaving the future; sourcing I business I solutions - to underline these developments and reinforce the fairs' service-led positioning.

From 1 to 3 July 2024 at Porte de Versailles
This new signature will be fully expressed at the next edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, including Avantex and Leatherworld, which will take place from 1 to 3 July 2024 in Hall 7 (7.2 and 7.3) of the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. The show, which will remain the same size and offer a more selective range of products, will reflect this convergence between textiles and finished products. This session will also have no interaction with the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, which are due to open on 26 July, three weeks after Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris

Haelixa, the trailblazer of physical traceability solutions, has partnered with Trudel Silk, a market leader for sustainable organic and recycled silk products. This collaboration brings traceability and transparency to silk production.

Silk is one of the finest and smoothest fabrics; the better the quality of the silk, the more luxurious it feels to the touch. To create the best quality silk, the conditions for mulberry cultivation must be up to the highest standards. A healthy micro-ecosystem in the fields translates to top-grade silk cocoon quality. At Trudel, this is the environment they have created for the vertical integration of their business. Trudel aims to succeed at every stage of the process, which can only be accomplished through the active involvement and visible cooperation of all market players. These players include farmers, reeling mills, twisting/spinning mills, weaving mills, dyeing and printing mills, and brands. They are involved in every step, from the cultivation of mulberry trees to the production of silk fabrics.

Haelixa and Trudel have collaborated to improve silk’s robust and consistent traceability. As the demand for validation of the silk value chain increases, they have partnered with groups from Italy and Asia to develop a unique solution that uses DNA markers to trace the entire supply chain of silk production. This innovative approach ensures each silk product’s ethical sourcing.

The silk fibers used in their spun silk yarns are marked with a specific DNA per farm set selected by Trudel. Throughout the supply chain, samples of yarn, fabrics, and finished products undergo testing to verify the presence of original silk fibers. Based on the reporting, the brand can trace the finished accessories or garments to Trudel.