From the Sector

The Gleaming line by the Marchi & Fildi Group includes a wide range of metalloplastic yarns for the most varied of uses. Reflex, the new range of reflective yarns, will join the line.

In addition to uses in the worlds of fashion and furnishings, for fancy yarns, decoration and accessories, an important application for the Gleaming collection is in the sector of technical clothing with high-visibility features.

Reflex, used for the production of fabrics and tapes, able to reflect the light and ensure good visibility for people wearing them in low-light situations, is augmented by new colour shades in addition to the traditional greys.

The innovative reflective yarns in white, black, and light and dark multicolours offer new possibilities for:

• tapes, external labels and accessories;
• technical fabrics for work clothing with specific safety standards;
• uniforms, sports clothing and accessories;
• hosiery, gloves, bibs and hats for night use, for winter clothing and for northern markets.

The latest addition to the range, with an important functionality, is the Reflex stretch yarn, which, apart from in the sectors described above, also finds application in flat bed or circular knitting and sewing. Its composition makes it softer and more versatile in comparison to traditional reflectives.

The Gleaming line represents a completion of the range of yarns produced by the Marchi & Fildi Group. The yarns are available in various thicknesses, widths and types in both metallised and transparent versions, and iridescent, reflective and phosphorescent effects. Also articles are included with particular features of resistance to chemical and dyeing treatments.

Amongst the most recent innovations is the line of metalloplastic yarns in 100% polyester obtained from post-consumer recycling with GRS (Global Recycle Standard) certification.

After two years of joint collaboration and research the Swiss Textile Recycling Project “Texcircle” comes to an end. Partners and stakeholders have worked on the vision of a textile cluster where materials flow in circular loops. The goal of the project was to develop high-quality yarns and products incorporating such a large amount of recycled textiles as possible. In the end, several product prototypes from carpets, socks, and curtains to pullovers, padding and accessories have been developed with at least 50 % recycled fiber up to 80 % recycled fibers and yarns.

Europe has a waste problem of 7.5 million waste of which only 30-35 % is collected and less than 1 % of the textile and clothing worldwide is recycled into textiles and clothing again. It is as well found that around 80 % of the impact of a textile product lies in the design.

Together with the design research expertise of the Lucerne University of Applied sciences and arts, the spinning expertise of Rieter and the sorting and collection expertise of Texaid, systems should be created where products of high quality can be produced of recycled fiber. On board were the expertise of further Cluster partners of Brands, Retailers, and the public sector to see how a joint Cluster and system coukld be established.

The Project Texcircle and cluster is led by the Lucerne University of Applied Sciences and Arts – Art  & Design, and in collaboration with Coop, Rieter, Jacob Rohner AG, Ruckstuhl AG, TEXAID as well as workfashion.com ag. Furthermore, Bundesamt für Zivildienst ZIVI, NIKIN AG, and Tiger Liz Textiles are supporting the project. The project is funded by Innosuisse.

Furthermore, collaboration partners from all over Europe contributed to the project to enable these prototypes and systems.

Through joint developments from the design, the collecting, sorting trials, tearing, and spinning trials until the actual production trials and product testing. The partners were able to recycle 2.5 Tons of pre-and post-consumer textile waste into product prototypes with a promising commercial interest. From socks, west, and pullovers to non-woven felts and accessories to carpets and curtains. Through our 2 years of collaboration, the teamcame across several hurdles in the textile recycling value chain which could be tackled. This was a proof of concept that a circular system is possible and the industry now has to enable this at full scale.

The first Cradle to Cradle Certified^® clothing collection is on the market one year after the collaboration platform for Swiss textile labels was launched. The Circular Clothing cooperative has succeeded, in close cooperation with European suppliers, in gaining access to circular materials and equipment and using this for the Black Denim Collection by the ethical fashion label “the Blue suit”. An important step for the cooperative, which receives funding from the Migros Pioneer Fund, is the development of an online assessment tool which can be used to help check the readiness of textile labels to operate in a circular manner.

The black denim was developed by a renowned manufacturer in Italy. Since no toxic chemicals are used in the production process, this denim is safe for biological cycles and Cradle to Cradle Certified^® Gold. Cradle to Cradle Certified^® Gold certified material by the Swiss company OceanSafe was used for the lining of the jacket. Special innovative design elements and production processes, such as the printed lining, also meet the stringent Cradle to Cradle Certified^® Gold requirements. Currently, 1% of the material of the Black Denim Collection is Cradle to Cradle Certified® Bronze. In the next few months, this percent and thus also the whole garments should reach the gold level.

The Cradle to Cradle^® certification is based on the following five principles: Material Health, Product Circularity, Clean Air & Climate Protection, Water & Soil Stewardship, and Social Fairness. Depending on the extent to which all of these criteria are met by the manufacturing process, there are various levels of certification from bronze to silver, gold and platinum.

• The adidas x SOUL CAP partnership aims to promote greater diversity and inclusivity in the world of swimming, by helping to break down social barriers in the sport.
• The debut swim cap has been designed for people with long or voluminous hair in a range of sizes, for adults and children, in an exclusive linen green colorway.

adidas announces its first swim cap made in partnership with London-based start-up SOUL CAP , which will be available from 26th September. This collaboration – which follows the launch of adidas’ full-cover and inclusive sizing swimwear ranges last summer – is part of the brand’s ongoing commitment to make water sports more accessible.

The idea for SOUL CAP was born in 2017 when founders Michael Chapman and Toks Ahmed took up adult swimming lessons, after not having learned how to swim as children. They noticed a problem during their classes – every swimmer wore the same size swim cap, no matter what hairstyle they had, which often resulted in people struggling with ill-fitting caps. This observation led to them creating SOUL CAP, a company that makes swim caps designed for people with long or voluminous hair.

The adidas x SOUL CAP swim cap is made from 100 per cent silicone, which creates less snag on the hair ensuring a more comfortable fit. Built with extra space, it provides a snug fit and tight seal to keep long and voluminous hair dry and healthy through every type of swim. The collection consists of an adult cap in sizes Regular-XXL and a children’s cap in sizes Regular-L, in an exclusive linen green colorway.

Just ahead of the fall season, adidas Originals and Pharrell Williams return to launch an array of new colors of their gender-neutral Humanrace Premium Basics Collection. The FW22 drop features a premium, heavyweight jersey crafted from cotton from Better Cotton, which supports more sustainable cotton farming. Designs are punctuated with the signature puff-print logo execution and large ‘Humanrace’ chest branding on select pieces.

The collection comprises the PW Basics Tee, PW Basics Short, PW Basics Hoodie, PW Basics Pant, PW Basics Crew , and PW Basics Long Sleeve Tee. Each item is available in sizes ranging from 3XS-2XL and in seven colors chosen by Pharrell, including Night Grey, Alumina, Light  Grey Heather, Linen Green, Halo Blue, Almost Pink, and Almost Yellow.

Exhibition: Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty
May 5 – July 16, 2023

The Costume Institute’s spring 2023 exhibition will examine the work of Karl Lagerfeld (1933–2019). Focusing on the designer’s stylistic vocabulary as expressed in aesthetic themes that appear time and again in his fashions from the 1950s to his final collection in 2019, the show will spotlight the German-born designer’s unique working methodology.

Most of the approximately 150 pieces on display will be accompanied by Lagerfeld’s sketches, which underscore his complex creative process and the collaborative relationships with his premières, or head seamstresses. Lagerfeld’s fluid lines united his designs for Balmain, Patou, Chloé, Fendi, Chanel, and his eponymous label, Karl Lagerfeld, creating a diverse and prolific body of work unparalleled in the history of fashion.

• New fibre with a circular economy footprint obtained from cotton linters through a closed-loop process
• September 22-25, 2022, WSM-White Sustainable Milano, Visconti pavilion

For the second time in a row Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei takes part to White Sustainable Milano, the first fashion trade show entirely dedicated to the research and focus on new materials and technologies able to lead to a real ecological transition, developed in collaboration with Giusy Bettoni, CEO and founder C.L.A.S.S., and Marco Poli, Founder of The Style Lift.

After becoming a leader in formalwear lining, in the latest decade this fiber by Asahi Kasei has been able to evolve towards new consumer needs and desires, moving itself towards many different applications such as intimate, fashion, formalwear and activewear. Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei arrives at WSM with a new step into its journey and evolution in contemporary style with a new Staple-fibre that unlocks creative paths towards mew aesthetics, touch and sustainability.

A new yarn range that expands the company’s realm of applications for the fashion and luxury industry, including also knitwear, jersey and casualwear. Indeed, the fibre comes with a circular economy footprint obtained from cotton linters through a closed-loop process. Bemberg™ also ensures certified sustainability credentials through its transparent and traceable approach.

At WSM fair, the company proves it by unveiling a collection of t-shirts developed in collaboration with the MagnoLab smart network of Italian companies. Circular economy and environmental responsibility meet aesthetic research with a collaborative imprint.

The new t-shirt collection created in synergy with MagnoLab, a network of Biella-based companies bringing forward initiative and collabs related to sustainability and circular economy. Staple-fibre is the top ingredient of the collection. The cut t-shirts are presented both in sheer and blends with other certified fibers, including GOTS cottons and RWS wools, capable of enhancing both the hand of the final garment and the performance of the brand-new yarn.

A Selection of Footwear and Apparel Designed to Raise Awareness and Funding for Breast Cancer Now and National Breast Cancer Foundation, Inc.

• In partnership with the charities Breast Cancer Now (UK/Europe) and National Breast Cancer Foundation (US), the Collection brings together a range of products for running, hiking and mountain biking
• £15/€15/$15 from each full-price sale will be donated to BCN (for purchases in the UK and EU) or NBCF (for purchases in the North America)
• The Collection feature illustrations by adidas pro mountain biker Veronique Sandler, empathetically designed to represent the comfort that those with breast cancer have experienced in the outdoors

Inspired by the experiences of people and communities around the world, including its own employees and athletes, adidas is launching the Breast Cancer Awareness Collection this October.
Available throughout Breast Cancer Awareness Month, the adidas Breast Cancer Awareness Collection sees adidas partnering with Breast Cancer Now in the UK and Europe, and National Breast Cancer Foundation, Inc. in the US, to help raise awareness of breast cancer and support the vital work both charities do.

The products in the Breast Cancer Awareness Collection have been chosen to help everyone, regardless of physical ability or condition, spend more time in the outdoors.
The collection’s focus on functional footwear and apparel that is designed for the outdoors is in keeping with adidas' objective to help broaden access to outdoor sports and help everyone enjoy the benefits of spending time in nature. With United by Summits, adidas TERREX is taking this brand-wise ethos further by encouraging all people, from every background, to realise their own individual goals in the outdoors and enjoy the benefits of adventure, both big and small.

The collection is available for purchase in limited quantities from September 30, 2022 until the end of October 2022 for adiClub members only, and £15/€15/$15 from each full-price sale of the adidas Breast Cancer Awareness Collection will be donated to Breast Cancer Now (for purchases in the UK and EU) or National Breast Cancer Foundation, Inc. (for purchases in North America). The money raised will contribute to the important work these charities are doing.

Y-3 returns to present the closing chapter of its Fall/Winter 2022 collection. Representing the final iteration of the brand’s “20 Years: Recoded” thematic narrative, Chapter 4 boldly celebrates one of the label’s most revered and lasting motifs – exotic prints – as adidas and Yohji Yamamoto fearlessly reimagine historic looks and textures for a new era.

Subversively exploring the year-long theme of collective memory, the latest chapter draws on Yohji Yamamoto’s inherently rebellious spirit. With Y-3 shifting its creative focus to a distinctly textural concept – Memories of Exotics – the German sportswear brand and the Japanese visionary recall a legacy of animal prints and iconography, distorting iconic signifiers through a slew of all-over print graphics.  

The seasonal offering is highlighted by a selection of pieces that juxtapose leopard prints and fabrics with muted palettes, functional details, and dynamic sporting silhouettes. Curated as a daring blend of past and future, the collection clashes the brand’s heritage with its progressive vision for tomorrow.

Accompanying the launch of Fall/Winter 2022 Chapter 4 is a visual campaign that oscillates between mystery, intrigue, and sporting dynamism. Shot by Heji Shin with creative direction from Jamie Reid and styling from Robbie Spencer, the visuals channel a visceral, rather than understated, interpretation of Y-3’s past, present, and future.

• OFF TO NEW HORIZONS

BOGNER was founded on innovations and adventures. When looking back, it is to 90 years of pioneering heritage. The company celebrates the past while welcoming the future with a selection of iconic BOGNER silhouettes revived and reinterpreted.

BEST OF BOGNER Fall/Winter 2022 combines innovative craftsmanship with luxury and progress. A collection of refined looks that create a sense of loose elegance and lightness.

Luxurious materials such as Bavarian wool, high-performance stretch nylon and performance travel wool are combined with embroidery, color blocking, cable knit patterns and fringes. The result: a fashion revival with iconic, timeless silhouettes and modern, luxurious highlights.