From the Sector

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) sent a letter to Treasury Secretary Scott Bessent, following remarks the Secretary made about the U.S. textile industry at this morning’s White House daily press briefing:

Dear Mr. Secretary:

On behalf of the U.S. textile industry and our 471,000 American workers, we appreciate the Trump administration’s efforts to advance an America First Trade Policy to reshore high-quality industrial jobs by addressing unfair trade practices that have harmed U.S. manufacturers and workers for decades. As you may know, our industry publicly endorsed President Trump’s America First Reciprocal Trade Plan and the White House included our endorsement in its April 3 press release highlighting statements of support for the president’s initiative.

We are writing to request a meeting at your convenience with our top industry leaders. We noted your comments today during the press conference that “President Trump is interested in the jobs of the future, not the jobs of the past. We don't need to necessarily have a booming textile industry where I grew up again, but we do want to have precision manufacturing and bring that back.” Our industry saw your remarks and were disheartened to hear this sentiment, especially since this industry has been noted by President Trump himself on a number of occasions as critical and strategic. The U.S. textile industry was proud to make lifesaving PPE during the first Trump Administration in response to COVID. The U.S. proudly makes over 8,000 different products to the U.S. military alone to ensure we do not have to rely on foreign adversaries to make essential products. This is a strategically important, relevant, and key industry – which is why we were pleased the White House amplified the industry again in its press release on reciprocal tariffs.´

Today we write to underscore the importance of our industry and the jobs it offers to thousands of workers, sustaining communities across the United States. The U.S. textile industry provides much-needed employment in rural areas and has functioned as a springboard for workers out of poverty into good-paying jobs for generations, including in your home state of South Carolina. Last year, the multifaceted U.S. textile supply chain directly employed 471,000 workers and produced shipments of man-made fiber, yarns, fabrics, apparel and non-apparel sewn products valued at $64 billion.

The United States exported $28 billion worth of textile-related goods to global markets in 2024, making it the second largest exporter of textile and apparel products in the world. Most U.S. textile exports go to Canada, Mexico, or other Western Hemisphere countries with which the United States has a free trade agreement for finishing and return to the U.S. as apparel. This vibrant production supply chain with our closest trading partners competes directly against imports from China and other countries in Asia that often deploy unfair, predatory trade practices, such as subsidized production, dumped exports, intellectual property theft, undervalued currency, abhorrent labor abuses, and unsustainable environmental practices.

Our industry proudly remains a world leader in textile innovation with unparalleled breadth and scope of manufacturing capabilities. Over the past 10 years, the U.S. textile industry made $22.3 billion in capital investments in pursuit of the latest innovations related to sustainability and production. This focus on innovation enables the industry to create tens of thousands of products including apparel, industrial textiles, and home furnishings.

With the right policies, the Trump administration can encourage the U.S. textile industry to reinvest in America, preserve and grow our existing workforce, and spur greater production and sales of American-made textiles now and in the future.

We would like to meet at your convenience to discuss the critical nature of the U.S. textile industry and how the Administration can help this key supply chain onshore jobs. Thank you for your consideration of this timely request.

Respectfully,
Kimberly Glas, President and CEO

The US is EU 5th most important trading partner, with total trade exceeding €9 billion.
American customers enjoy high end fashion items, but also technical textiles coming from Europe. Adding a 20% duty will hamper that relationship.
 
EURATEX Director General Dirk Vantyghem warned against this tariff escalation: "This decision is like going back in time; it will lead to a loose-loose relationship within the global textile industry. EURATEX stands for free but fair trade, based on common rules which are respected by all; the EU and the US should lead by example, and promote high quality and sustainable textile products.”

The statement in full:

EDANA, the leading global association representing the nonwovens and related industries, acknowledges the European Commission’s potential decision to implement countermeasures in response to the recently imposed US tariffs on EU steel, aluminium, and certain derived products. As the voice of over 250 companies in the nonwovens supply chain, we are closely monitoring the implications of these measures and their potential impact on our members.

Nonwovens are innovative, high-tech, engineered fabrics made from fibres. They are used in a wide range of consumer and industrial products either in combination with other materials or alone. They provide essential materials for hygiene products, medical applications, filtration, construction, and automotive industries. They are critical in ensuring public health, safety, and industrial efficiency, with applications ranging from surgical masks and wound dressings to baby diapers, disinfectant wipes, and high-performance insulation.

While we welcome the intention to safeguard the interests of EU industries affected by the US tariffs, EDANA joins those already raising significant concerns about the potential unintended consequences of these countermeasures on our sector.

The EU’s relationship with the US is of critical importance, and we believe the primary focus should be on negotiations to reach a mutually beneficial resolution. It is essential to avoid escalating trade tensions that could result in long-term harm to industries on both sides of the Atlantic.

Negative effect on key raw materials
A particular area of concern is the potential effect of these countermeasures on critical raw materials, such as fluff pulp. Fluff pulp, or pulp-based fibres, are a natural raw material used in the absorbent core of absorbent hygiene products, this is due to their high absorbency rate. Baby nappies, menstrual products, and incontinence products all rely on fluff pulp to absorb and retain human fluids. In 2024, the US provided more than 80% of the fluff pulp imported into the European Union.

This is just one example of the broader impact these countermeasures could have on the industry. These measures could lead to increased production costs, higher finished product prices, supply chain disruptions, and a competitive disadvantage for European nonwoven manufacturers in global markets.

Conclusion
It is important to highlight that these proposed measures risk being unfair, as they will disproportionately impact the more vulnerable members of our society, including the elderly, hospitalised individuals, young families with children, and women. Any regulatory changes should carefully consider their social implications to avoid exacerbating inequalities.

Considering these concerns, EDANA urges the European Commission to carefully assess the economic impact on downstream industries, ensuring that countermeasures do not disproportionately impact sectors dependent on essential imported raw materials. We welcome the opportunity to contribute to the ongoing consultation process and strongly advocate for a balanced approach that safeguards European industry while maintaining fair and open trade relations with the US.

The European Commission has the opportunity to prevent a harmful cycle of retaliatory tariffs that could have a net negative effect on both economies.