From the Sector

This year Swiss company Schoeller Textil AG, is celebrating 150 years of tradition and future opportunities. As a global textile solutions brand, the company specializes in the development and production of innovative technical fabrics and smart textile finishing technologies. What began as Switzerland’s first worsted yarn spinning mill in 1868, has achieved worldwide recognition for its high-tech textiles and its dedication to sustainability. For its more than 500 brand partners in 50 countries, Schoeller produces an average of over six million meters of performance textiles per year in its mills in Sevelen, Switzerland and Balingen, Germany.

When Rudolph Schoeller established what would be called “Schoeller & Sohne” in Zurich in 1868, it was within an age of ground-breaking achievement and progress inspired by the beginnings of the Swiss Red Cross and the completion of the Gotthard Tunnel in Switzerland. Schoeller quickly expanded its business and in 1954 went on to purchase a textile mill in Sevelen, located in the St. Gallen Rhine Valley, which currently serves as the company’s headquarters. That mill would soon launch the very first elastic fabric for the ski industry – or the world’s very first soft shell fabric – under the name “skifans.”

For Schoeller Summer 2020 everything flows smoothly. The fabrics move with a fluid lightness in a closed ecological cycle. Upcycled products with ECONYL® yarn and the PFC-free ecorepel® Bio technology based on renewable raw materials are two ecological highlights of the 2020 Summer Collection, which is being developed and produced in the heart of the Swiss mountains. Color effects turn the functional textiles into exciting multicolors with contrasting reverses and fresh, modern plain colors that can easily be combined.

REGENERATED ECONYL® YARN
The textiles manufactured by Schoeller using ECONYL® yarn made from regenerated material are genuine upcycled products. The ECONYL® Reclaiming Program of Aquafil S.P.A. reduces global waste by collecting recyclable materials from landfill sites and the world’s oceans and returning them into the production cycle. The resulting yarn is no different from conventional textiles in terms of quality and appearance. The Schoeller fabric family with ECONYL® yarn encompasses a complete package with diverse exciting qualities such as ultra-light, bi-elastic schoeller®-dynamic (e.g. for windbreaker blousons), very soft, fine schoeller®-dryskin (e.g. for high-tech shorts) and lightweight schoeller®-WB-400.

ECO-CREATED
New, supersoft soft-shells with ECONYL® yarn are available with different backings and weights depending on the situation. The lightest schoeller®-WB-400 radiates a sense of summer in fresh tones such as melon, oxygen blue or khaki with a smooth jersey reverse in contrasting colors, also made from ECONYL® yarn. A slightly heavier quality surprises in classic black with an elegant, navy blue reverse, while the Bordeaux nuance of the soft-shell with its brushed reverse in stone grey feels warm, soft and cozy. The fluorocarbon-free ecorepel® bio-technology, based on renewable raw materials, offers sustainable water repellence.

WHITE MATTER
The dominant features of summer 2020, alongside sustainable textiles and technologies made from natural materials, are inspired multicolors. The comfortable, multicolored schoeller®-WB-400 qualities produce completely new color effects and create a cheerful look – both for outdoor activities and in urban sportswear. The combination of melon, ocean green and stone grey with white changes the mood of the original colors and lends the textiles an unexpectedly chalky, summery look. Another striking feature is the lightweight, white jersey backing, which is only revealed at second glance.

AUGMENTED ORIGINALS
The presentation of the authentic schoeller®-dynamic qualities is no less lively, ranging from mossy green tones and blue nuances through to the brown variations of tree bark. The multicolors combine perfectly with plain fabrics and are impressively functional thanks to the PFC-free ecorepel® bio-technology, which also provides reliable water repellence. The basic qualities of the lightweight schoeller®-dryskin trousers and jackets are given a touch of elegance in the form of a discreet sheen and fashionable colors. In soft blues and greens, these supple all-rounders are highly wear resistant and offer ideal moisture management through the microfibers on the inside. They also feature ecorepel® bio-technology for water repellence.

A shining example of how technology and design work interact: On 3 November, 2017, Schoeller Textil AG wins the Design Preis Schweiz 2017/18 in the textile category. E-soft-shell is a heated fabric which can be cut to size without affecting the embedded technology and is primarily suited to clothing for outdoor activities and motorcycling.

The innovative company Schoeller Textil AG from the Rhine valley is the proud winner of the Design Preis Schweiz 2017/18, picking up the award for Excellent Swiss Design in the textile category on 3 November, 2017 in Langenthal.

Together with the whole Schoeller team, the Schoeller delegation – consisting of Roland Lottenbach (Head of Research and Development, left), Dagmar Signer (Marketing, centre) and Ruedi Kühne (CFO, right) - takes enormous delight in this recognition for the many years of intensive work. The company received the award for the heated fabric, E-soft-shell. Among others, the evaluation criteria were: technologies, material combinations, zeitgeist and innovation.

E-soft-shell by the meter

The Design Preis jury commented as follows on the Schoeller development: Electrically heated clothing which makes it possible for us to stay pleasantly warm in winter has long been a dream of the textiles industry. Projects in this field have hardly made it beyond the development and trial phase hitherto. But now Schoeller Textil has created E-soft-shell, a material that makes this utopia a reality. E-soft-shell is a laminate consisting of bi-elastic tissue, machined lining and a functional corkshell coating. The heating technology is integrated with the fabric in a diamond-shaped geometrical pattern. It is based on metallic yarns, making it possible for the material to be evenly heated at standard voltages. The fabric is designed to be sold off the roll, and can be cut up without affecting the embedded technology. It is suitable above all as clothing for outdoor activities or motor cycling – but applications in the fashion or wellness worlds could also come into consideration.

Upcycled products with ECONYL® yarn, mulesing-free wool and PFC-free bio technologies based on renewable raw materials, or bio foam, are just some of the ecological highlights of the Schoeller 2019 Summer Collection, developed and produced among the mountains of Switzerland. Polychrome effects lend exciting multicolors with richly-contrasting reverses and a new light membrane ensure an optimum body climate both for sports and in the city.
REGENERATED ECONYL® YARN Textiles with ECONYL® yarn made by Schoeller are genuinely upcycled products produced from regenerated waste material. The ECONYL® regeneration system reduces global waste by reclaiming reusable material from tips and oceans and returning it to the production cycle. The resulting yarn is indistinguishable from conventional yarn in terms of quality and appearance. The Schoeller ECONYL® fabric family encompasses a complete package with diverse exciting qualities such as ultra-light, bi-elastic schoeller®-dynamic (e.g. for windbreaker), very soft, fine schoeller®-dryskin (e.g. for high-tech sports) and a variety of light schoeller®-WB-400 weights.

An exciting new development, resulting from a Swiss collaboration between textile manufacturer Schoeller and auxiliaries and dyes specialists at Textilcolor. ecodye is a new auxiliary concept used, in particular, in polyester dyeing processes. The technology accelerates the dyeing process and contributes to cutting costs, while at the same time helping to preserve the environment with a low level of demand on resources.
Less time, less water, less energy – the new ecodye auxiliary concept allows eco-friendly and cost-saving dyeing processes for polyester yarns and piece goods. It shortens the heating phase, thus accelerating process time by more than 30 percent. At the same time, it reduces energy consumption by 20 percent and the water requirement by 25 percent, as the goods can be cleaned in the cooling dye bath.
In addition, ecodye improves the dyeing levelness in polyester textiles. Spots and dye agglomeration are almost completely avoided, and the precipitation on the goods that arises as a result of polyester oligomers are no longer evident. ecodye provides good shade stability and avoids reproduction problems from batch to batch, thus reducing the rate of double staining and increasing the capacity utilization and productivity of the dyeing mill on a long-term basis.

Following a successful launch phase, ecodye has already been able to provide numerous positive test results. The technology is being used by polyester-processing customers in categories including outdoor, sportswear and technical knitted fabrics, primarily in Europe, South and Middle America, Turkey, Bangladesh and China.