From the Sector

Istanbul Apparel Exporters’ Association (İHKİB) and Bilişim Vadisi -Technology Development Zone (Informatics Valley) have signed a Cooperation Protocol to enhance the competitiveness of the Turkish apparel industry in global markets. Under this protocol, the parties will develop projects and work packages that add value to the sector, focusing primarily on twin transformation, sustainability, the circular economy, and design. 

Speaking at the signing ceremony, İHKİB Vice President Mustafa Paşahan noted that Türkiye is the world’s seventh-largest apparel supplier and the third-largest supplier to the European Union (EU). He stated that Türkiye accounts for 3.2% of global apparel exports, and continued: 

“We are a leading country in apparel production. Thanks to our high quality, rapid and flexible manufacturing capabilities, and geographical advantages, we stand out from our competitors. We already comply with European standards in areas such as recycling, carbon footprint reduction, digitalization, and social compliance. To further strengthen our position in global markets, we aim to build on these existing strengths and turn digital and green transformation into key opportunities. In this process, we are making effective use of EU funds through projects developed under the IPA (Instrument for Pre-accession Assistance). So far, we have secured €37 million in EU funding. In February, we successfully completed our METAMORPHOSIS project under IPA II, one of the key outcomes of which was the establishment of the Digital Transformation Center, which now serves the industry. Last month, we launched our MIDAS project, also with EU funding, to provide the necessary infrastructure for twin transformation among SMEs. Later this year, we will initiate our 'Carbon Footprint Tracking and Reduction' project, again supported by EU funds. With our new partnership with Bilişim Vadisi, we believe we will launch many innovative projects that will further enhance the global competitiveness of our fashion industry, especially in digitalization and green transformation.” 

ERKAM TUZGEN: CONNECTING STAKEHOLDERS WITHIN THE SAME ECOSYSTEM 
General Manager of Bilişim Vadisi Erkam Tüzgen also shared his thoughts: “Next-generation textile technologies are being driven not only by major players but also by creative startups. Through this program, we are bringing together young entrepreneurs, designers, and technology developers within a shared ecosystem. Bilişim Vadisi will continue to act as a catalyst at this intersection of technology and design.”

Under the protocol, the two parties will apply for national and international support programs focused on digitalization, green transformation, sustainability, the circular economy, and creative industries. They will jointly develop projects and work packages aligned with strategic goals in the technology and design sectors. By collaborating with their affiliates and stakeholders, they will form solution-oriented partnerships in digital transformation and design processes. They will also engage in joint efforts through structures such as digitalization and design clustering centers. Entrepreneurs based in Bilişim Vadisi will be given opportunities to grow through partnerships with İHKİB members.

One year after the launch of the Antwerp Declaration, 400 business leaders gathered to discuss the Clean Industrial Deal with European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen. Earlier in the day, President von der Leyen presented the initiative to the public, outlining its vision for strengthening Europe’s industrial base. The Antwerp meeting was a crucial moment for industry leaders to assess its impact and demand concrete measures for urgent implementation.

Representing 200,000 textile companies and 1.3 million workers across Europe, EURATEX welcomes the Clean Industrial Deal as a crucial framework to support industrial competitiveness. However, today’s discussions underscored the reality that without swift and targeted action, the European textile sector will remain at serious risk. High energy prices, regulatory complexity, and unfair competition from imports that bypass EU standards are making it increasingly difficult for manufacturers to stay afloat.

EURATEX President Mario Jorge Machado highlighted the industry's struggles with high energy costs and unfair competition. "European textile companies are facing a substantial crisis, combined with an increasingly complex regulatory landscape. We need a level playing field, particularly concerning online platforms that circumvent established quality and sustainability standards."

Addressing Commissioner Hoekstra, in charge of Climate, Machado declared: “We are ready to take responsibility, but if we want to save the planet, we cannot do it alone. Europe represents less than 10% of global CO₂ emissions in textiles—yet we are imposing strict sustainability laws on ourselves, while unsustainable imports take over the market. If we continue like this, we are simply outsourcing pollution to other regions while shutting down European factories.”

EURATEX has outlined four key priorities within the Clean Industrial Deal that must be addressed to safeguard the textile sector:

• Affordable Energy Action Plan: Securing stable and competitively priced energy is essential to retain textile production in Europe and sustain employment.
• Public Procurement Reform: Prioritising EU-made, sustainable textiles in public tenders will support responsible production and foster demand for innovative, eco-friendly products.
• Competitiveness Fund: SMEs, which form the backbone of the textile industry, require targeted financial support to invest in new technologies, upskill their workforce, and enhance competitiveness.
• Clean Trade and Investment Partnerships: To ensure fair global competition, trade agreements must uphold environmental and social standards across supply chains.

President Machado emphasises the need to stimulate demand for sustainable textile products. "We must shift the focus from solely pressuring manufacturers to adopt sustainable practices to actively incentivizing consumers and public procurers to choose sustainable options. If the cost of sustainability is not covered by the customer, it will be carried by the planet!'"

EURATEX therefore urges the European Commission and EU member states to move forward without delay in implementing a comprehensive support package for the textile industry. “Entrepreneurs are making the difficult decision to shut down production," warns Machado. "We need concrete action now to prevent further closures and ensure that the European textile industry not only survives but thrives in the years to come.”

The StitchTogether National Seminar in Poland delivers the Warsaw Declaration to enhance social dialogue for the Polish textile industry

On 6 December 2024, social partners from the Polish textiles industry adopted the Warsaw Declaration, a joint commitment to work on the competitiveness of their industry. The declaration is the outcome of a 2 day meeting, organised under the EU co-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry. The meeting in Warsaw brought together representatives of the Polish textile industry, including employer associations, trade unions, education institutes and the government to discuss the future of the industry.

Poland has a long and proud tradition in textiles and clothing manufacturing, with 130,000 people employed in the sector, and 20,000 companies of which the vast majority are SMEs. But the sector is struggling due to tough global competition and price pressures. In this context, the Polish textile and clothing social partners are united in ensuring the sector can successful face the digital and green transition, while remaining competitive and resilient, with decent jobs for all.

The Warsaw Declaration includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together, but asking support of the Polish government to upgrade industrial strategies, making the textile industry more attractive with a qualified and trained workforce.

“In times of transition social dialogue is more vital than ever, employers and trade unions need to work together to anticipate the change and prepare for the future in this case to more sustainable textiles and clothing production in Poland. It is essential that the transition is a Just Transition that leaves no worker behind, and we want the transition to safeguard jobs in the sector and create new jobs, which must be decent jobs with decent pay. The transition requires support and we call on the Polish government to work with the social partners for a new sectoral industrial policy to support the sector and good industrial jobs,’’ says Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “the incoming Polish presidency of the EU is a unique opportunity to shape a Clean Industrial Deal that will strengthen the competitiveness of our companies. As our Polish textile companies clearly expressed during the event, they want to see changes on the energy costs and fair competition, instead of adding new regulations.”

EURATEX together with COTANCE and CEC hosted the TCLF SkillBridge Stakeholder Event, an important step towards forming regional skills partnerships by bringing together various stakeholders from industry, education, and public sectors.

Co-financed by the European Commission, TCLF SkillBridge aims to establish and nurture regional partnerships between TCLF industries, regional authorities, and local universities and VET providers. The project will target up to 25 European regions with a strong concentration of textile, clothing, leather or footwear industries.  This regional focus will allow the development of specific action plans related to reskilling and upskilling, which meet the needs of each target region. The project will support the creation of such partnerships, facilitate community exchanges for knowledge sharing, and provide support to SMEs, enabling them to upskill and reskill their workforce in tune with the evolving demands of the industry.

The TCLF SkillBridge project complements 2 other initiatives – AEQUALIS4TCLF and METASKILLS4TCLF – which have already been launched under the Erasmus+ Programme. As a result, the industry has now a coherent set of instruments across the EU to address the skills challenges.

During the event, stakeholders from the Emilia Romagna Region, ATEVAL, and Verband der Deutschen Lederindustrie e.V. gave insights in their experiences in skills collaborations in their regions. An interactive session then followed, where stakeholders discussed how to successfully establish such regional partnerships under the Pact for Skills.

The demand for water in Germany is increasing and used water is not being utilized sufficiently. Graywater in particular, i.e. wastewater from showers, bathtubs and washbasins, offers great potential for further use. It can be brought to service water quality on site and reused for flushing toilets or watering gardens, for example. Thanks to flexible 3D textiles, it can even be used in almost any building to save space.

Around 50 to 80 percent of all domestic wastewater is graywater. Until now, large containers and tanks have been needed to reprocess it and return it to the cycle, taking up a lot of space in the building. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) and their project partner ARIS have developed a biological, textile-based system.

It is based on a 3D spacer fabric made of highly durable polypropylene. Its advantage is that it can be installed flat and is therefore extremely space-saving. Thanks to its special system geometry, it can be installed in places that would otherwise remain unused - for example in a new building under the floor of an underground garage, on a flat roof or in the garden. It can be modularly adapted to the water requirements and structural conditions in the respective buildings. "Even vertical solutions on facades are conceivable," explains DITF scientist Jamal Sarsour. This means that the graywater treatment system could be used in densely built-up cities in particular.

The system developed by the project partners requires little maintenance and is therefore particularly cost-effective. Compared to previous solutions, it is characterized by a long lifespan. It therefore contributes to sustainable water use and makes a valuable contribution to the circular economy.

ARIS plans to launch the new textile-based graywater treatment system on the market in 2024.

The project will be presented on June 13, 2024 at the SME Innovation Day of the Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Climate Protection in Berlin.

The research project with the number 16KN080829 of AiF Projekt GmbH, Berlin, was funded by the Federal Ministry of Economics and Climate Protection as part of the Central Innovation Program for SMEs (ZIM) on the basis of a resolution of the German Bundestag.

Representatives from all 43 European partners of RegioGreenTex met for the Annual Consortium Meeting, hosted by CITEVE – the Portuguese Centre for textile innovation.

Co-funded by the European Union I3 Instrument Programme, RegioGreenTex is a €13 million project to promote investments in textile circularity. Research centres, regional clusters, regional development agencies and 26 SMEs collaborate to realise unique pilot projects to transform the textile industry business model from linear to circular.
 
The annual consortium meeting is a pivotal point to assess the project’s progress and impact. Presentations and workshops have been an essential part of the meeting, along with  networking opportunities where partners created synergies and discussed common challenges. Furthermore, all SME partners showcased their results through an exhibition with samples of garments, yarns, fabrics and products: the outcome of the project’s innovation so far. New collaborations and partners are expected to flourish as another outcome and the meeting.

EURATEX, as project coordinator, ensures the successful implementation of this ambitious initiative. Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, commented: “RegioGreenTex is an essential piece of our wider plan to implement the EU Sustainable Textile Strategy. Offering investment support to our SMEs is critical to make this green transition a success.”

2024 is a turning point for the European textiles and clothing industry: From 6 to 9 June 2024, European citizens will vote for a new European Parliament and, based on the results, a new European Commission will be formed. In view of this important election, EURATEX publishes a Manifesto, presenting 15 requests which will help to ensure a competitive European textiles and clothing industry.

The textile and apparel industry is making a substantial contribution to European wealth, jobs and growth. Europe counts 192,000 companies employing 1.3 million workers with a turnover of €167 billion and over €67 billion of exports. Entrepreneurship should be recognised as the foundation for a competitive textile industry, offering high quality and sustainable products, based on innovation, creativity and design. European policy makers should recognise such role to textiles and apparel companies and have an open dialogue to create better framework conditions to operate in the internal and global markets.

To realise that vision, the industry and policy makers need to work together on a mix of policy measures and initiatives, which are coherent and offer a transparent and predictable framework for our companies, and make them more resilient and competitive.

These policies should focus around four points:

Develop and implement a “smart” EU industrial policy
Europe should create policies which enhance competitiveness, instead of creating administrative burdens. To EURATEX, each new piece of legislation should undergo a “competitiveness test” to critically look at the impact of the new rules. Europe should also create a favourable environment to promote education and jobs in the industry. The EU textile industry currently employees 1,3 million people, 30% of which is above 50 years old. A critical bottleneck for the textile industry is to attract (young) people and make sure these people have the right set of skills, to operate in a changing textile ecosystem. EURATEX also asks the EU to invest in innovation and digitalisation as they are key to the European competitive advantage. Not only, as the last years have proved, Europe should provide companies with access to sustainable energy at lower prices.

No sustainability without competitiveness
The EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles is pushing our sector towards new business models with a lower environmental footprint. To realise that ambition, no less than 16 regulatory proposals are on the table, each of them with a different timetable, managed by different departments of the European Commission. EURATEX is committed to sustainability, but asks for economic realism. This set of new regulations needs to be coherent, enforceable, feasible and applicable for SMEs, and not push textile companies out of the market. Moreover, some member states are moving forward faster and some legislations will be decided at national level, creating fragmentation of the market. Such scenarios will hamper Europe and its possibilities to grow.

Ensure free and fair trade
With $224 billion in sold merchandise, Europe is the second major world exporters of textiles and clothes after China ($321 billion). It is therefore important that the global market should be open, free and fair for our industry to continue to thrive. Besides the support to FTAs in general, EURATEX wants to emphasise that all trade agreements should offer effective market access for EU companies and a level playing field in these markets. A free and open market should go hand in hand also with protection against free riders. The EU must always consider enforcement and enforceability when making new laws; it should also take action together with the member states for a better coordination with harmonised criteria for action among Customs Authorities.

Incentivise the Demand for sustainable textiles
Sustainable textile products typically come at a premium price, making it difficult for many consumers and buyers to purchase such products. Many surveys across Europe confirm that around 50% of interviewees do not purchase sustainable fashion products and the main reason is price. EURATEX believes that, to create a demand and help consumers to buy a (genuine) sustainable textile product, there should be standard requirements and fiscal incentives. Public authorities should also implement green public procurements, by increasing the importance of sustainability criteria in their evaluation grids.

July 12, the European Parliament adopted its position on the Ecodesign Regulation, which aims to improve the environmental sustainability and circularity of products placed on the EU market, including textiles.

While EURATEX recognises the importance of accelerating the green transition and welcomes the progress on the legislation, it regrets the EP’s approach to target the textile industry in a Regulation designed to be a framework legislation for all sectors.  

Representing 160 000 European textile companies, EURATEX has been highlighting that a successful legal framework is based on an inclusive and feasible approach, ensures sufficient capacity and sets a timeline for businesses to adjust. Therefore, EURATEX welcomes MEPs’ call for tailored support and smooth transition for SMEs. Strongly advocated by EURATEX, the European Parliament also strengthens the provisions on market surveillance, which is a key element for ensuring level playing field for EU companies in the Single Market.

As businesses already face difficulties to navigate through all ongoing policy and legislative initiatives, EURATEX appreciates the efforts of the EP to ensure legislative consistency, the lack of which may only create additional costs and administrative burdens for companies. The inclusivity and transparency of the future Ecodesign Forum have indeed received a positive boost.

EURATEX regrets that the European Parliament has overlooked the plea for legislative coherence on substances of concern and for keeping the ESPR aligned with existing chemical legislation to avoid overlapping or conflicting regulation. EURATEX advises that social sustainability aspects should be addressed within the due diligence legislative framework.

Regarding the future Ecodesign requirements for textiles, these will have to be based on reliable data, and supported by thorough analysis and impact assessments. The requirements should be set out in the textile-specific Delegated Act and should be developed with relevant stakeholders.

As the ESPR trialogue negotiations between the European Parliament, the Council of the EU and the European Commission unfold in autumn, EURATEX continues to stress the guiding principle of “fit-for-purpose” rules and the balance between high environmental objectives and competitiveness of companies.

Moreover, on Tuesday 11 July, the European Parliament's position on Industrial Emissions Directive (IED) was adopted by MEPs with 396 votes in favour, 102 against and 131 abstentions. EURATEX expresses concerns on this text because of the inclusion of standalone finishing plants in the scope of the new IED. This creates inconsistencies with the recently finalised Textile BREF document (adopted in Sevilla by all parties), which regulates industrial emissions for both pretreatments and finishing plants. Standalone finishing companies, typically SMEs, now face challenges to comply with specifications which were originally designed for different and bigger companies.

The international association that will manage the Single-Entry-Point (SEP) of the BIONANOPOLYS project has been formally constituted and will be able to support companies across the European Union in the market introduction of bionanomaterials through technical, legal, regulatory, safety, economic and financial support services.

The SEP was established as an AISBL (non-profit entity) on 17 February 2023 in the framework of the European project BIONANOPOLYS, funded by the Horizon 2020 programme. The technical director of ITENE and coordinator of this project, Carmen Sánchez, is the president of this association in which representatives of other project partners also act as directors. Specifically, the CTP (Centre Technique du Papier) from France; CIDAUT (Fundación para la Investigación y Desarrollo en Transporte y Energía), from Spain; CENTI (Centre for Nanotechnology and Smart Materials), from Portugal, and the law firm Gil & Robles - San Bartolome & Associés, from Luxembourg.

The BIONANOPOLYS SEP will reduce the risks and barriers to the commercial exploitation of bio-based materials and polymeric bionanocomposites with nanotechnology and accelerate market penetration and innovation processes. SMEs, large companies, and potential customers who are users of the BIONANOPOLYS OITB (Open Innovation Test Bed) will be able to access the services offered by the project partners through this entity, which will act as a one-stop shop, at affordable costs and conditions.

The test bed consists of 14 enhanced pilot plants and complementary services to support technological and commercial breakthroughs. Collaboration between all the partners that make up BIONANOPOLYS and access through the SEP allows joint access to all the services offered by the partners and helps to drive collaborative open innovation.

Call for access to the BIONANOPOLYS OITB
The SEP and the project partners will be in charge of evaluating the projects submitted to the BIONANOPOLYS platform once the open call launched last February to select five projects from different European countries that will be able to access its services free of charge to develop, test or scale-up bionanomaterials in the BIONANOPOLYS OITB closes.

Companies wishing to access the services to develop or test nanomaterials can submit their applications until 30 April.

The BIONANOPOLYS test bed could benefit companies involved in the production of biopolymers, cellulose paper, nonwovens, foams, or coatings, as well as the packaging, agriculture, food, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, hygiene, textiles and 3D printing sectors.

The Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University, as part of the Mittelstandzentrum 4.0 Kompetenzzentrum Textil vernetzt, has supported numerous small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) on their way to digitalisation over the last five years. At the Digital Capability Center (DCC) in Aachen, for example, SMEs were able to experience digitised production from yarn to smart bracelets and thus test the feasibility of Industry 4.0 solutions in their working environment.

New supply chain laws and social sustainability now pose current challenges for SMEs. In the follow-up project Mittelstand-Digital Zentrum Smarte Kreisläufe (SME Digital Centre Smart Cycles), ITA will be supporting SMEs from 1 March in implementing ideas for digitalisation and sustainability in concrete terms.

This means finding sustainable solutions and processes for the circular economy together with companies and developing new digital business models. The ITA's solutions cover the areas of awareness-raising, qualification, implementation and networking. These offers are free of charge for SMEs - follow-up projects often lead to the funding programme "Central Innovation Programme for SMEs - ZIM" of the Federal Ministry of Economics and Climate Protection (BMWK) or to research and development projects.

Questions concerning the funding conditions can be sent to the following e-mail address: rosario.othen@ita.rwth-aachen.de.