From the Sector

Source Fashion, a leading destination for responsible sourcing and fashion innovation, has launched a landmark report tackling one of the fashion industry’s most pressing but least addressed issues: overproduction.

Titled “Do We Really Need to Produce So Much?”, the report—developed in collaboration with retail futures consultancy Insider Trends—offers a data-rich exploration of the scale, causes, and consequences of overproduction. It presents forward-thinking solutions for brands looking to remain competitive while reducing waste and environmental impact. The full report is now available for download at Source Fashion – Overproduction Report 2025.

Overproduction: A Costly and Widespread Issue
The report reveals that the global fashion industry produces between 80 and 150 billion garments annually—yet up to 40% remain unsold, frequently ending up in landfill, incineration, or markdown bins. Despite the environmental and financial toll, only 1% of fashion brands are actively working to reduce production volumes. 

A New Blueprint for Fashion
Rather than simply highlighting the problem, the report presents actionable models already being piloted by leading brands and retailers:

• On-Demand Production – Producing only what is needed, when it’s needed, to eliminate excess stock.
• Circular Design – Creating garments designed to be reused, repaired, or recycled, thereby extending their lifecycle.
• Retail-as-a-Service – Shifting from ownership to access models such as rental, resale, and subscription.
• Collaborative Creation – Co-designing with consumers to ensure relevancy and reduce waste.

As the report states, “Brands can reduce production without reducing profit. In fact, in many cases, it increases margins and strengthens consumer trust.” The publication includes case studies from brands already implementing these approaches, demonstrating commercial viability alongside sustainability gains.

A Turning Point for Retail
The report arrives at a pivotal moment for fashion, as the industry faces shifting consumer expectations, economic uncertainty, and growing pressure from both regulators and investors.

Suzanne Ellingham, Sourcing Director at Source said, “This report highlights the uncomfortable truth behind retails success — that excess production is built into the model with volume is the only way to increase profits. As we approach 2025, companies must question not only how they produce, but how much, and how they deal with . There are real over production and excess. Opportunities for those willing to embrace a leaner, smarter, more circular future.”

On May 23 and 24 an Open Day will be held in Rome at the Centro Apostolato Liturgico Largo Brancaccio 57, run by the Sister Disciples of the Divine Master. The event will unveil the first collection of chasubles (vestments worn to celebrate Holy Mass) made with Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei.

The POPOLO IN CAMMINO – ON THE OCCASION OF THE JUBILEE 2025 – PELLEGRINI DI SPERANZA collection features liturgical vestments including chasubles, dalmatics and copes. During the event, Ettore Pellegrini, Marketing & Sales Manager of Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia, and Junshu Furusawa, Sales Manager & Board Member of Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia, will be present and will welcome all guests.

The choice of Bemberg™ - the brand of cupro fiber by Asahi Kasei, a regenerated cellulose fiber obtained from the closed-loop process using cotton linters -  was the result of a journey that began with a visit to Milano Unica (Italy’s premier textile trade fair) and continued with several presentations of the material in Rome. Bemberg™ stood out for its uniqueness and circular economy footprint. Thanks to its transparent and traceable supply chaih, it offers certified sustainability credentials and premium quality. The fiber respects form and drape, with a truly unique and precious feel: cool in summer, with excellent moisture control, offering superior comfort and a soft, impalpable touch on the skin.

The collection is a testimony to the Church’s commitment to sustainable conversion, made possible thanks to the work of the Sister Disciples of the Divine Master, a religious congregation of nuns who, with experience, skill, and creativity, design and craft liturgical vestments and a variety of  handcrafted items, including iconography, sculptures and ceramics. Their work is dedicated to serving the Church’s liturgy, guided by the principles of liturgical renewal: noble simplicity, dignity, and beauty in sobriety (cf. Sacrosanctum Concilium 34; 122; 124).

The fabric used for the vestments in this collection was designed by the Sister Disciples themselves and produced with textiles supplied by Brunello.

The Sister Disciples of the Divine Master present their creations through the Apostolato Liturgico, a retail point with an online shop offering religious articles—from sacred vestments to other liturgical items. Following the launch on May 23, the Apostolato Liturgico stores in Milan, Bari, Palermo, Florence, Cagliari, Rome, and others will feature window displays dedicated to the collection for the next three months.

Back in February, Source Fashion hosted three full days of back-to-back exclusive seminars for fashion brands and retailers. And now, every single one of them is available to watch for free on their website.

Like:

• The urgency of transparency
  Transparency is no longer optional—it's the key to sustainability, trust, and accountability in fashion, and this session dives into how brands can lead the charge for meaningful change.
  
  Graeme Moran, Associate Editor – Drapers
  Andrew Xeni, Founder & CEO / Founder & Chairman - Nobody's Child
• Competing priorities, how can sustainability win against profitability and risk?
  This panel explores how to make sustainability work whilst facing the challenges of balancing innovation, risk, and uncertainty.
  
  Anna Berry, Co-Founder and Director - Retail 100 Consulting
  Simon Platts, Founder - SP&KO Consultancy
  Hayley Shore, Senior Design Manager - Pepsi Co
  Ella Andrew, Knowledge Exchange Manager & Policy Lead - Centre for Sustainable Fashion
  Cedrik Hoffmann, CEO - Ameba

On the occasion of World Water Day, Jeanologia reaffirms its commitment to dehydrating and detoxifying the textile industry by presenting its Ecological Profit and Loss Account—a pioneering report that quantifies the positive impact of its innovative solutions in terms of water savings and emissions reduction.

The figures for 2024: 20,875,400 cubic meters of polluted water saved and a reduction of 98,4 million kilograms of CO₂ emissions—a contribution equivalent to the annual water consumption of a city the size of Valencia and the carbon capture in a year by a forest of 16,000 hectares, the same size as 22,400 football fields. This means millions of liters of wastewater have been prevented from reaching rivers and seas, and millions of kilograms of CO₂ from polluting the atmosphere.

Water scarcity: the textile industry’s challenge and the urgency to act
The fashion industry, one of the most water-intensive and waste-generating sectors, faces a critical challenge. Each year, it is estimated to use 93 billion cubic meters of water and generate 20% of the world’s wastewater, mostly due to processes like dyeing and garment finishing. This scenario highlights the urgent need for transformation.

The global water crisis demands concrete solutions. Jeanologia has proven that it is possible to produce fashion responsibly, significantly reducing environmental impact without compromising quality, authenticity, creativity, or profitability.

The denim revolution is driven by innovation. Since its founding three decades ago, Jeanologia has developed a integrated ecosystem of technologies that enable zero discharge and minimal water usage. Among its specialized solutions for the denim industry are:

• Laser: A pioneering technology that replaces traditional abrasion methods, eliminating the use of water and harmful chemicals.
• eFlow: Uses nanobubbles to transport chemicals precisely to fabrics, minimizing water usage and ensuring zero discharge.
• Airwash Tech (G2 Indra): Replaces conventional water-based garment washing with air, significantly reducing both water and chemical consumption.
• H2Zero: A closed-loop water recycling system that recovers up to 95% of water used during production.

Jeanologia has implemented these technologies in over 80 countries, working with leading global manufacturers to completely transform how jeans are made. Sustainability in the textile sector is no longer a promise—it’s a measurable reality.

Since its founding, Jeanologia has been on a mission to transform the textile industry into a more ethical, sustainable, and efficient model. The company works closely with brands, retailers, and suppliers on this transformative journey, offering disruptive technologies, innovative software, and a new operational model. Their groundbreaking solutions, including laser technology, G2 ozone, Dancing Box, e-flow, H2Zero, and ColorBox, have redefined garment design and finishing standards, eliminating polluting processes and significantly reducing the use of water, energy, and chemicals. Thanks to these advancements, Jeanologia has saved millions of liters of water and eliminated harmful substances, turning its vision of a truly sustainable textile industry into reality.

In 2025, Jeanologia celebrates its 30th anniversary, marking a legacy of three decades of sustainable innovation. From the introduction of its laser technology in 1999, which revolutionized denim finishing, to its current challenge of implementing a revolutionary sustainable garment dyeing process, the Spanish company has pioneered solutions that not only benefit the environment but also optimize operational costs. Looking ahead, Jeanologia remains committed to creating an eco-efficient and ethical textile future, encouraging all industry stakeholders to join its Mission Zero initiative: dehydrate and detoxify the textile industry. No more water and toxic chemicals used in garment finishing around the world.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, has taken sustainable and cost-effective cellulosic dyeing to the next level with the introduction of AVITERA® RASPBERRY SE.

Extending the AVITERA® SE GEN NEXT platform color of deep shades, the IP-protected brilliant trichromatic red empowers mills to achieve rich, dark and extra-dark shades while meeting the stringent fastness and sustainability requirements of leading brands and retailers. The newest element also offers significantly lower processing costs, with focus on reducing the recipe cost together with reliable right-first-time performance as well, “AVITERA® SE revolutionized the dyeing of cellulosic fibers and blends when it was introduced 15 years ago – setting a new benchmark with state-of-the-art application and fastness performance and advanced sustainability,” Dhirendra Gautam, VP Marketing, Archroma said.

“Our goal was always to offer a full range of attractive colors without limits. With AVITERA® SE RASPBERRY SE as our new trichromatic red, we are now enabling fashion and textile companies to produce differentiated end articles in consistent and long-lasting dark and extra-dark shades with the same cost-competitiveness as in pale and medium shades. This is another major step forward on our PLANET CONSCIOUS+ journey to economic and environmental sustainability for our industry,” he continued.

Substantial Savings on Challenging Dark Shades
Dyeing darker shades – such as black, navy and especially red – has traditionally been more challenging and costly than dyeing lighter colors. Achieving a deep, uniform color requires higher dye concentrations and more water and energy, and often also demands additional steps or re-dyeing. Dark shades, particularly red, also tend to fade more quickly than light colors, especially when exposed to sunlight and repeated home laundering.

With high-speed low-temperature wash-off, high process reliability and excellent reproducibility on dark and ultra-dark shades, the AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT dyestuffs allow mills to achieve water and energy savings of up to 50% compared to best available technology, and to slash CO2 emissions and effluent discharge by up to 50% as well. They can also increase mill output by up to 25% or more.

The partnership between Filo and C.L.A.S.S., the international eco-hub founded by Giusy Bettoni, is renewed once again .
 
At the 63rd edition of Filo, “Sustainability from A to Z” — the service created by Filo in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. and aimed at companies that want to navigate the complex world of sustainability — chooses to focus its showcase on the concept of responsible innovation and the means to expand its knowledge through technical insights, case histories, and direct testimonies. The ultimate goal, shared by Filo and C.L.A.S.S., is to support the industry and the market in making conscious choices that align with the evolving market landscape. In this regard, the proposals that C.L.A.S.S. brings to Filo as part of “Sustainability from A to Z” are closely linked to the debates and discussions taking place in the “Dialoghi di Confronto”, since they provide an additional opportunity for further insight.
 
In the space dedicated to C.L.A.S.S. at the 63rd edition of Filo, projects and solutions implemented by organizations and companies selected by C.L.A.S.S. will be showcased. This season, the focus will be on “green chemistry” and the role of “advanced” natural fibers, particularly in relation to cotton and linen. For the two fibers, companies have often adopted comprehensive innovation strategies, leading to what we define as “advanced” productions, where traceability processes have become an essential requirement.
 
In the C.L.A.S.S. space at Filo63, Cotton is represented by Supima®, a high-quality cotton grown in the United States, accounting for less than 1% of global cotton production. What makes it special compared to other types of cotton is its extra-long staple, which provides superior strength, softness, and long-lasting colour retention. To ensure the authenticity and traceability of its cotton, Supima® has introduced the AQRe™ Project (Authenticated Quality and Responsible Engagement). This cutting-edge system replaces the previous licensing program, offering a blockchain-based digital platform in collaboration with TextileGenesis™, allowing real-time monitoring of the entire supply chain. Additionally, Supima® partners with Oritain™ to conduct forensic testing, verifying the cotton’s origin at every stage of production. This advanced combination of technologies guarantees that every product bearing the SUPIMA® brand is made from high-quality American-grown cotton, meeting the market’s increasing demand for transparency and sustainability.
 
Regarding Linen, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp will be present, the European agro-industrial organization that brings together all actors in the European Flax and Hemp supply chain starting from its fields origin.  2025 is the year of acceleration its sustainable transformation trajectory from the field to the finished product. New developments to be seen:  

• Evolution of its Flax- Linen certifications  
• Launch of a new digital Flax-Linen traceability platform: Flax-Linen traceability platform. European Certified fibres to Retaildeveloped in cooperation with   TextileGenesis - Lectra and set to launch in May 2025. This innovative blockchain-based digital tool enables tracking at every stage of production, ensuring authenticity and full transparency throughout the entire supply chain
• Publication of datasets and development of a specific B2B tool for calculating environmental footprint
• Scientific validation of the functional properties of Flax-Linen
• New Flax-Linen & Hemp sourcing platform for innovative materials and textile & technical solutions

At the C.L.A.S.S. space an Italian story about “green chemistry” will showcase featuring REVECOL® by ERCA Textile Chemical Solutions. REVECOL ® is a revolutionary 100% Made in Italy innovation that utilizes critical waste materials, such as exhausted vegetable cooking oil, transforming it into a next-generation line of safe, certified, high-performance, and competitive chemical auxiliaries designed for the entire textile industry. This unique approach allows for a CO₂ emissions reduction of up to 72% compared to traditional chemistry, setting a new industry standard. The range includes 18 auxiliaries certified according to GRS, RCS, ZDHC, bluesign®, and GOTS, ensuring high performance with a reduced environmental impact. REVECOL® is the missing certified end-to-end element that can drive sustainability, circularity, and performance in the fashion creation process, meeting the needs of a market increasingly focused on traceability and environmental responsibility.
 
Throughout Filo63, the C.L.A.S.S. team will be available to explore these innovations in depth with companies and professionals eager to gain insight into the three pioneering realities redefining sustainability, traceability, and innovation in the textile sector.

The undersigned PROs and business associations launched the Textile PRO Forum, a unique voluntary initiative designed to harmonise and share best practices for effective and efficient implementation of the Extended Producer Responsibility for textiles and footwear (Textiles EPR) across Europe.

As Europe prepares for the mandatory separate collection of textile waste and with the revision of the Waste Framework Directive entering its final stage, the EPR schemes have become a cornerstone of the European strategy for sustainability and circularity of textiles.

These EPR schemes and the related PROs will operate differently in each EU Member State, reflecting national legislation, market conditions, and infrastructure. While this diversity reflects local features, it also presents a challenge for efficiency and for businesses which will face the complexity of up to 27 different EPR models for textiles.

The Textile PRO Forum addresses this need by bringing together experienced PROs and national business associations engaged in the implementation of the Textile EPRs. Its mission is to foster collaboration, harmonization, and knowledge-sharing among the Textile EPR Producer Responsibility Organizations (PROs).

Initiated by Refashion, the first PRO for textiles, and by EURATEX, the European Textile and Apparel Confederation, the Textile PRO Forum is coordinated by EURATEX. The initial key activities include the Forum set up and the following strategic workstreams:

• Reduce administrative burden
• Harmonize approaches to implement the eco-modulation fees, set by legislation
• Supporting recycling
• Harmonise framework
• Set up, creation and expansion of PROs

List of the participating organizations

1. Asociación para la Gestión del Residuo Textil y Calzado
2. ATOK
3. Cobat Tessile
4. Comeos
5. Creamoda
6. Danish Fashion & Textile
7. Electrao
8. Erion Textiles
9. EURATEX
10. Fedustria
11. Finnish Textile & Fashion
12. Gesamtverband Textil- und Mode
13. Inretail
14. Modint
15. Reconomy / Redress
16. Recydata
17. Refashion
18. RETEX.Green
19. Retur
20. REFABRIK
21. Stichting Producentenorganisatie UPV Textiel
22. TEKO – Swedish Textile and Fashion Industries

Pili, a French pioneer in biobased dyes and pigments, partners with Orta, the Turkish denim mill and Citizens of Humanity, a California-based high-end denim brand known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

They are beginning a transformative shift in the denim industry with the commercial launch of the first products dyed with Pili’s biobased indigo. The first products will debut in January in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.

A New Ecological Standard for the Denim Industry
In 2024, Pili achieved a major milestone by producing its first tons of biobased indigo, enabling the creation of sustainable denim articles, a turning point in the company's efforts to decarbonize the textile industry especially denim.

Pili has developed unique processes combining fermentation and organic chemistry to offer a high-performance, eco-friendly alternative to petrochemical dyes. Their ecological alternative significantly reduces the use of toxic chemicals and fossil resources, while aiming to cut CO2 emissions up to 50%. It meets the same performance as petrochemical indigo while seamlessly integrating into existing dyeing processes without requiring additional investment in commercial dyeing equipment.

Pili’s colors development is based on standardized Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs), ensuring a rigorous process to measure and minimize their environmental impact.

A Partnership Driving Sustainable Transformation in the Industry
Fiber and dye are the two main components of denim products and also the ones with the greatest impact on their production. The partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Pili, and Orta establishes one of the highest ecological standards in the market with the use of regenerative cotton and biobased indigo.

Pili biobased indigo will make its debut in Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE’s Spring 2025 collections. This long-term partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Orta, and Pili will continue to expand in future collections. The launch will be exclusive on NET-A-PORTER on January 6, 2025, before being extended to agolde.com, citizensofhumanity.com, and other global retailers.

A Key Step Towards the Decarbonization of the Color Industry
Building on this first success, Pili is accelerating the development of coloring solutions for various industrial applications, particularly in the inks, paints, and polymers sectors. The aim is to decarbonize everyday products using high-performance biobased pigments, with the first applicative tests set to begin this year. Pili continues its mission to decarbonize the color industry, paving the way for a sustainable revolution.

Haelixa has partnered with C&A, one of Europe’s leading fashion retailers, to advance the traceability of its organic cotton. The partnership stems from C&A’s commitment to working with others in the apparel industry to pilot and scale innovation. C&A’s targets include supporting the growth of organic cotton without synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, resulting in cleaner waterways, healthier ecosystems, and lower farmer costs.
 
The partnership between Haelixa and C&A began in 2022 with a pilot project, and since then, they have continuously worked together to trace raw materials. The result is this agreement with Haelixa to mark their organic cotton for the next three years. Using Haelixa’s DNA markers, C&A can trace the journey of its organic cotton from farm to finished garment. According to the C&A Sustainability Report, they are working with other organisations to foster organic cotton farming.  
 
Alexandre Saus-Salas, Head of Sourcing at C&A, commented, “Transparency and ethical sourcing are crucial in our supply chain. As part of our commitment to traceability, we have begun implementing Haelixa DNA within our organic supply chain. This gradual rollout will continue over multiple seasons in 2025, with an impact foreseen over the next three years.”
 
Haelixa’s solution utilises DNA markers to create a tamper-proof, verifiable traceability that tracks organic cotton throughout the supply chain. The cotton, sourced through CottonConnect, is marked with unique DNA, which acts as a specific identifier. Once applied, the cotton is tested throughout the supply chain to verify the material using forensic PCR tests. Traceability with the fiber-forward approach ensures the final garment materials are authentic.  
 
The marking ensures the authenticity of organic cotton and mitigates the risk of sourcing from regions associated with forced labour.  Using the Haelixa markers enables C&A to make reliable statements about the presence of organic cotton in its products marked at the field level (in the ginning process).
 
Patrick Strumpf, CEO of Haelixa, noted, “Trust is the foundation of transparent storytelling. By tracing organic cotton from farm to finished garment, we empower brands like C&A to tell an authentic story, fostering greater consumer confidence in their sustainability efforts.”
 
This project is one of the initiatives that C&A has undertaken to enhance accountability through its supply chain. One of the goals listed in their Sustainability Report is enabling customers to make informed choices by increasing transparency around products and the company. The traceability of organic cotton demonstrates that innovation can support business success through customer trust.

TrusTrace, a global company with a market-leading platform for product traceability and supply chain compliance in fashion and retail, announced that TWINSET, a high-end Italian fashion brand, has selected their platform to help identify suppliers, support eco-design initiatives, and measure each product’s environmental impact.

TWINSET was established in Carpi (Modena) in 1987. The collections, which initially focused on sophisticated knitwear, expanded over the years to offer, through apparel and accessories, a total look for women and girls.

With a three-year roadmap, results will be reached progressively by scaling-up to ultimately trace the full range of product categories and suppliers. Key objectives are to identify material country of origin, manage supply-chain risk such as forced labour, and enable eco-design by assessing the environmental impact of the product. To support the environmental impact initiative, TrusTrace partnered with a leading life cycle assessment (LCA) solution Peftrust, which feeds traceability data directly to the LCA solution to get the most precise PEF (Product Environmental Footprint) scoring.

This strategic initiative has especially helped support TWINSET to prepare for incoming regulations such as Digital Product Passports (DPPs) which will be mandatory on textiles sold in Europe by 2030, as well as the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), which requires companies to report on their environmental and social impact.