From the Sector

• Empowering fashion with responsible R&D, cutting edge finishing and a Made in Italy design imprint

Paris - “The soul of sustainable fashion is an alchemy, a combined commitment and an act of responsibility”. This is the motto ‘embossed’ in the collections and the values of Italian Converter. At Première Vision, the leading manufacturer celebrates its 25th anniversary and presents E.C.O. KOSMOS, a cross-collection, a brand-new ‘green line’ range’ and a winning formula shining a light on the company’s responsible path and unique ‘blend’ for the fashion of tomorrow.

The acronym E.C.O. stands for Ecologic, Conversion, Optimisation; three unique concepts and values that truly embody Italian Converter DNA: sustainability, transformative process and quality improvement.
For over 25 years, Italian Converter creates high-quality materials for some of the leading fashion and accessories brands. “Made in Italy and sustainability are part of our DNA.” Says Costantino Karazissis, founder of Italian Converter. “We believe that responsible sourcing and processes as well as a deep research into new technology pathways and a market-savvy taste for material design must be the starting point.”

At the core of the company’s responsible alchemy is also the constant research for the perfect balance of 100% Made in Italy materials. “We proudly collaborate with 120 skilled employees producing new hybrid material innovations daily, attracting partnerships from the best high-end brands both in Italy and abroad”.

Toupe and brick red E.C.O. Graffiti (100% linen) on E.C.O. Aurora (cotton and AMNI SOUL ECO®)

E.C.O. KOSMOS is entirely traceable, transparent, 100%made in Italy. The collection walks through a very complete and balanced range sustainable materials - from natural to eco high tech ones- that are transformed, enriched and valued in 9 high-tech cutting-edge innovations thanks to the Italian Converter expertise.
•    The natural line starts from bases of cotton bonded with AMNI SOUL ECO®, an enhanced polyamide 6.6 that degrades within 5 years instead of decades, as other conventional ones do.
•    The stretch innovations start from bases in GRS-certified Newlife™, a cutting-edge premium recycled polyester created using a High-Tech Conversion Model. Thanks to a mechanical process, used plastic bottles are turned into a top-quality polymer and yarn which is 100% traceable and 100% Made in Italy. The whole process takes place within a 100 square km area in Piedmont in Northern Italy.
 
All the references make use only of water-based resins and Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified dying. The result, is resistant and transpiring solutions which come with bold and high-performing features, with a soft touch or even with a silky, yet strong, and enveloping feel. The designs range from rustic to contemporary and nod to jacquard, ‘authentic look’ and ‘drill’ hints. An ideal solution for footwear, apparel and leather goods.

Long story short? No compromises. E.C.O. Kosmos reflects design, innovation and responsible values, as well as 100% Italian Converter know-how.
 
“But this is just the beginning,” adds Karazissis. “The next step we are going to implement in the E.C.O. Kosmos cross-collection is a progressive integration of our triple-expertise, processes and R&D.” A sustainable step forward, a leap woven into a deep expertise a story to-be-continued. For a better future, this is for sure.

For the first time, Italian textile company Manteco showcases its ultimate innovations at Première Vision’s Smart Creation, the fair’s most cutting edge epicentre showcasing visionary innovators pushing for a sustainable change and making the difference in the fashion business. The Prato-based company is leader in the production New Generation Recycled Wool thanks to a specially designed KM0, traceable and circular economy model.

Behind the sustainable approach and the premium quality textiles there are generations of ‘saper fare’ - know-how, in Italian -, indeed, Manteco’s products are not only responsibly Made in Italy but imbued with the skills of the artisans and makers working within 10 kms around the company. “Made in Italy does not mean processing high-quality materials with international technologies and then label the final product for export. It means products grown, taken care of and handcrafted in the country.” Says Matteo Mantellassi, CEO of Manteco. “But there’s a further step to this: harnessing the local ‘genius loci’, meaning the skills, traditions and human potential of a territory. We are proud to say that since 1943 we have always been 100% Made in Italy.”

As the role of lingerie in fashion and athleisure continues to augment, the desire for garments that will meet a new set of values for contemporary consumer lifestyles will flourish.  

ROICA™ - the pioneer of innovative stretch fibres, took this year’s Interfilière visitors on an inspirational journey, aimed at encouraging weavers, designers and brands to “engineer” their portfolio of products in new and exciting ways. The company sets a whole new standard in how creativity and responsibility can come together for a new generation of wardrobe solutions dedicated to the contemporary consumer, carving out a new kind of fashion future.

Below some unique developments born from the collaboration among ROICA™ and key premium brands:

COSABELLA produced by Collezioni SRL: The brand sells in over 100 countries, with a premium collection of 2000 styles for every sector of lingerie and leisurewear. Latest styles use a delicate floral lace by Tessitura Colombo Antonio made with ROICA™ V550 belonging to the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family for their more luxurious upscaled lines.

Livy selects Iluna Group’s contemporary graphic stretch lace with ROICA™ EF for the precious “BELLAGIO” line that includes a soft triangle bralette, a padded bra, a brief and a body for optimal comfort. The must-have range has a stunning aesthetic which represents the unique appeal of this lifestyle brand.

Sarah Borghi: the worldwide known brand of luxury Italian fashion hosiery, tights, and socks. They've dedicated more than 40 years scrutinizing the finest yarns and evolving technologies and breathing flawless life into their unique range of luxurious fashion. Today, Gizeta Calze S.r.l., owner of this brand, has developed the first line made out of sustainable ingredients that will be launched at the ROICA™ booth during Interfilière. The collection, developed in Italy by Almatex, blends together key smart fibers such as ROICA™ EF and Q-Nova®, and ROICA™ V550 with  AMNI SOUL ECO®. 

Vitamin A: the Californian brand offers a unique swimwear line rooted in female empowerment. Vitamin A’s beachwear is made with the finest materials and finishes, ensuring a product that will fit and wear beautifully for years to come. Among the  incorporated more sustainable high-performance fabrics shines a unique jacquard development by Maglificio Ripa with a 3D texture made with the GRS certified premium responsible stretch ROICA™ EF and Q-NOVA® by Fulgar. Vitamin A is a member of 1% For The Planet and  donate to environmental organizations who work to protect our oceans.

Wolford was one of the first brands to explore the real value of ROICA™. Known for its exceptional European Skinwear including legwear, lingerie and bodywear, the company has been striving to develop fully degradable items at the end of the product lifecycle. On top of last year’s award for being Cradle to Cradle Certified™ at GOLD Level certification for the biological cycle, Wolford was also recognised for its technical cycle using Econyl® yarn made by Aquafil (always blended with ROICA™ V550).

Each brand Partner brings a different yarn story firmly into the limelight, and all feature ingredients from the ROICA™ portfolio of yarns respecting the company’s commitment to ‘responsible innovation’, and which all boast important sustainable certifications.

„CONTENT, EXCHANGE AND INSPIRATION“

“We are on exactly the right track with our focal topics and concepts on the subject of Digitalisation, Sustainability and Retail Experiences. The feedback was overwhelmingly very positive. The concepts we have developed in recent months are spot on the contemporary pulse and there is considerable need for dialogue between all the parties. At PREMIUM we succeeded in breathing life into a new dynamic with the new brand mix in the halls and the focus on key looks. The stands looked truly amazing and a lot of time had clearly been spent working on the collections, too. The buyers loved the overall impact of this. They felt better appealed to, oriented – and entertained.
 
The PREMIUM GROUP stands for content, communication and inspiration. The feedback on the quality of the visitors to PREMIUM, SHOW&ORDER X PREMIUM and SEEK resonated overwhelmingly positively. Visitors are taking new trends and contacts home with them. There were buyers visiting from Stylebop, Macy’s or Caliroots. 

STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION, renowned as “Africa’s No. 1 Trade Fair for textile industries”, is gathering Over 1,200 exhibitors from more than 40 countries; with almost 90% of the available space already booked. The trade fair will occupy a space of 50,000 m² of exhibition space, and more than 40,000 trade visitors, delegates and buyers from all over the African continent are expected to attend the event.

STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION will feature the new concept of organizing two consecutive trade fairs; The first trade fair is dedicated to garment processing technologies including Sewing, Embroidery, Fabrics and their Accessories; While the second is dedicated to textile processing technologies including Weaving, Spinning, Knitting, and Dyeing Machinery, Technologies and Spare Parts; The two events are held under the giant brand STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION; and will be held in the prestigious venue Cairo International Conventions and Exhibitions Center- Egypt during the period 27 February - 1 March 2020 and 5 - 8 March 2020 successively.

For eight days, the brightest minds of the textiles technologies business will meet in Cairo to demonstrate the latest industrial know-hows; discuss up-to-date tendencies and set the perception for the future. STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION calls attention to its superior ranking not only through its prominence with the global industry but also by addressing the current challenges being the performance scale for the entire value chain of the African textile industries Bustling, energetic and wide-ranging, STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION is a premium multi-format event with a distinct commercial and business identity; where cutting-edge technologies, products, services and turnkey solutions are provided by global strategic players and technology makers to serve the ever - growing evolving textile markets of Africa.

Research and restoring of ancient tradition to shape a denim style which is always cutting-edge, focusing on a 100% Italian supply chain and on the outstanding quality of materials and processes.

“Ciao Milano”, the new edition of the Denim Première Vision show, for the first time in Milan (28-29 Maggio 2019), includes among its protagonist the project signed by Paolo Gnutti, aka PG DENIM. The company, under Gnutti’s creative guidance, has restyled its proposals, with two clear objectives in mind: on the one hand expanding its presence on the high-end denim market, focusing more and more on a bespoke approach and on product innovation, on the other side the ambitious goal of manufacturing one million metres of fabric in the year 2019.

This path of constant research is combined with a totally integrated and 100% Italian manufacturing structure, in order to give the market not just new products, but also new “tools”, says Paolo Gnutti, R&D Head at PG DENIM:
“We are targeting the market section where production always requires thinking out of the box, which feeds the imagination of those who are asked to transform it. Our approach is often made of provocations, suggestions, reflections, through continuous research which leads us to designing frequent and always innovative capsule collections”.

A creative input which almost always results from situations and pathways which bring back the creativity of
PG DENIM, to rediscover techniques and processes of the great Italian and international tailoring tradition.

The last frontier of innovation in racing suits made with yarns in Metamicro is the model Prime SP-16+, designed in collaboration with the Team McLaren Honda F.1

The spinning mill Filidea, joint venture between Marchi & Fildi spa and Abalıoğlu Holding A.Ş specialized in technical and high performance yarns with natural and synthtic fibers, is parter of Sparco, italian Company leader for the production of automotive components and technical apparels for the most important world Championships. The cooperation between the two Companies located in Piedmont, northern Italy, is focused on the supply of yarns with Metamicro in an exclusive composition, that are used for the production of the racing suits Sparco of the Premium range for Formula 1 and the World Rally Championship. The fire resistant yarn Metamicro based on aramidic fibers are a product of the latest generation, for their production it is necessary a special spinning line. The production is following the strict Sparco standards. Sparco controls all the production chain of racing suits, from Filidea, who has the competence to dye all the yarns with aramidic fibers in its own dyeing plant, to the woven fabric, produced and dyed in its own plant, to the woven fabric made by the italian Company TAT, till the production of garments. The process is always improved and tested.

Metamicro yarns are made by an high peformance spinning process. They are used for the production of fire resistant fabrics, that make a protection barrier for the body against flames and high temperature. The very fine micronage allows the production of very light fabrics with thick texture, the perfect base for light and comfortable suits. These features assure easier movements to the driver and the maximum protection from fire, keeping high breathability.

Filidea has invested on its production capacity of corespun yarns with XLANCE® technology, fiber used for the production of longlasting workwear apparel with an excellent fitting.

The spinning mill Filidea, joint venture between Marchi & Fildi spa and Abalıoğlu Holding A.Ş specialize in technical and high performance yarns with natural and synthtic fibers, is increasing its production of blends with XLANCE®.

XLANCE® is the innovative elastolefin fibe, elastic, chlorine and UV resistant. It finds application on workwear and outdoor clothing, with natural and comfort fitting. The comfort stretch feature follows the the body’s natural movement during the day-to-day work. Workwear clothing are so light, resistant and with a contemporary look. Resistance to abrasion and to frequent industrial laundry cycles with chemical products meet the needs of several professional sectors. XLANCE® is produced by ©Xlance srl, Company located in Varallo Pombia (province of Novara – Piedmont – Italy) that found in Filidea the perfect partner for the development of specific yarns, that are getting more and more requested. An innovation that is getting more important thanks to the cooperation of the two textile Companies located in Piedmont. Filidea has been producing XLANCE® yarns since 2009 and has now a great know-how. The Company to strengthens its leadership in technical yarns, for the main applications on protetictive garments, workwear, sportswear, racing and automotive. Filidea has developed and consolidated several partnerships for the creation of complete supply chains and the collaboration with ©Xlance is a perfect example.

Anita Tillmann on the new season, new topics and a new generation.

“We’re feeling a special vibe in Berlin at the moment. The new generation is cool, fresh, engaged. Despite the fact that we, in our 40s, 50s and up, wear the same sneakers and almost the same look as our children, it's a long time since we topped the cool list. We need the young crowd, these stars of tomorrow, their style, their ideas and their unconventional and open ways of thinking. Everyone should come to Berlin to meet them, listen to them, or at least watch them. If you only look to the past you won't create a good future.”

CRAFTING STORIES.
“Berlin feels reckless, flexible, sometimes wonderfully aimless, unconstrained and unpredictable, which gives my creativity a huge boost. I am fascinated by always meeting people from all over the world who have chosen to make Berlin their base so that they can be free and creative, because Berlin offers the space to do that – whether in a studio, or at WeWork or Berghain.”

CHANGING STORIES.
“Only 9 per cent of the 9.1 billion tonnes of waste plastic that accumulates around the world was recycled and 12 per cent was incinerated. We give talks daily on the theme of avoiding plastic and we are working with the City of Berlin on concepts for a plastic-free Fashion Week. Only together can we shake things up.”

TELLING STORIES.
“Emotionalisation begins at the trade show stand rather than in-store. If the sparks don't fly at the trade show it will be tricky to tell the brand story or implement the presentation of the brands across the sales areas. Firstly, the aim is to use key looks and storytelling to capture buyers’ attention and make statements. We are working together with the brands on showcasing differentiating factors and genuinely presenting something new. Secondly, we recommend bringing young sales staff along to Berlin as well, to internalise this dynamic as well as the brand stories; and to then make these stories come alive for end consumers across the sales areas.”

Composite reinforcement specialist Chomarat will exhibit its latest woven and multiaxial carbon fibre reinforcements at JEC World 2019. "Prepregs are used in the most demanding markets, such as aerospace or the automotive industry. Due to their high performance, Chomarat’s carbon fabrics are highly considered by prepreggers. Compared to standard solutions, the multiaxial reinforcements developed by the group offer Chomarat’s converter customers significant productivity gains. With its production sites in France, Asia and the United States, Chomarat is able to supply its customers and guarantee the same high level of quality in all countries," explains Group Managing Director Michel Cognet.

C-WEAVE™ - THE QUALITY AND RELIABILITY BENCHMARK
In just a few years, prepreggers have come to consider Chomarat's C-WEAVE™ carbon-fibre fabrics as a benchmark for surface-finish quality and processability.
The reinforcement contributes to productivity and reliability during the prepregging process. Helen Doughty, Director at SHD Composites, testifies: “The consistent high quality of C-WEAVE™ has been a key part of SHD Composite Materials continued success and growth.”
"Prepreg users often manufacture Class A surface parts for demanding applications, and they need excellence and reproducibility," explains Chomarat’s Prepreg Market Manager Ulrike Salmon.

C-PLY™: GOING FURTHER WITH CARBON MULTIAXIALS
The advantages of multi-axial reinforcements are now well established - oriented axes, absence of resin-rich areas allowing a high fibre content, and improved mechanical tensile and/or bending performance thanks to the non-crimp fibres.
By developing its C-PLY™ range, Chomarat further demonstrates that multiaxials are a real asset in terms of performance and appearance. "Chomarat strives to minimize marking on parts and to optimize surface quality through fibre spreading and the use of suitable stitches. C-PLY™ can also integrate aesthetic functions by using the assembly seam as a graphic design", continues Ulrike Salmon.
These new advantages are important for the automotive, sports-equipment and consumer-electronics markets, which seek to combine premium quality and productivity.

TINTEX Textiles presents new exemplary concepts based on a continuous textile research for responsible, ethical-minded fashions. It is born out of heritage and passion to use only good materials and the finest finishing techniques for better textiles in the best spirit of its unique Portuguese culture.

The new S/S 2020 collection starts from the concept of “UNO”: a full Naturally Advanced offer that is gathered together under one emblematic cultural standard, one that refers to unity as a result of the revolutionary generation in a society that embraces uniqueness and differentiation. UNO stands for unification, cross-fertilization, inclusion, just like an orchestra playing in concert with the same purpose. It is the perfect chance to discover a range of unique developments that truly embody the company’s identity, balancing responsible innovation and creativity. Smart ingredients take the lead being enhanced by the TINTEX unique dyeing and finishing expertise.

Starting from the “UNO is…embrace yourself” concept, a unique range of natural fibres are blended with technical qualities for new levels of wellbeing performance. Shirt structures, timeless jerseys and interlocks are born from the transformed polyamide Q-NOVA® by Fulgar with excellent moisture control, and from SeaCell™, that embodies the unique properties of seaweed combined with the unique ROICA™ CF (Clean Fit), a unique odor neutralizing premium stretch yarn by Asahi Kasei.