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15.06.2021

EURATEX Statement on the EU-US Summit

The European textile and apparel industry welcomes the organisation of the EU-US Summit in Brussels, and hopes that political leaders will launch a new era of closer cooperation across the Atlantic. Both the Covid19 pandemic and recent geopolitical tensions call for global solutions; the EU and the US should take a leadership role in developing that new global framework.

EU-US trade in textiles and apparel have dropped by nearly 20% in 2020 (just under €6 bln), while imports from other countries, in particular China, have increased spectacularly (+45% into the EU). At the same time, global supply chains came under pressure, and access to certain raw materials for the industry became difficult and costly.

Against this background, EURATEX does not call for protectionism, but a better functioning of global supply chains, with common rules which are applied by all. The EU and US authorities should put their full influence to establish a level playing field for our industry across the globe, promoting environmental and social standards. Sustainable and circular textiles should become the norm, thus contributing to a greener planet and creating high quality jobs.  

The European textile and apparel industry welcomes the organisation of the EU-US Summit in Brussels, and hopes that political leaders will launch a new era of closer cooperation across the Atlantic. Both the Covid19 pandemic and recent geopolitical tensions call for global solutions; the EU and the US should take a leadership role in developing that new global framework.

EU-US trade in textiles and apparel have dropped by nearly 20% in 2020 (just under €6 bln), while imports from other countries, in particular China, have increased spectacularly (+45% into the EU). At the same time, global supply chains came under pressure, and access to certain raw materials for the industry became difficult and costly.

Against this background, EURATEX does not call for protectionism, but a better functioning of global supply chains, with common rules which are applied by all. The EU and US authorities should put their full influence to establish a level playing field for our industry across the globe, promoting environmental and social standards. Sustainable and circular textiles should become the norm, thus contributing to a greener planet and creating high quality jobs.  

At bilateral level, the EU and US should resume their work on mutual recognition of standards and certification procedures, thus saving considerable costs for our companies while maintaining the highest safety standards. Custom procedures can be simplified on both sides, and joint research, e.g. in smart textiles, should be promoted.

EURATEX welcomes the recent progress in provisionally eliminating additional duties on several American and European products due to the Airbus-Boeing trade dispute. It is a very positive sign that EURATEX would like to highlight in a particularly difficult context for the textile and clothing industry at European, American and even global levels. EURATEX calls on both US and EU institutions to eliminate such duties permanently and build on a common positive agenda for the benefit of EU and US companies and consumers.

EURATEX Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented: "Both the EU and US are developing a new business model for their industry. We should make sure these models can complement and reinforce each other. If not, we risk losing global leadership, not just in terms of market share but also in terms of values and standards."

14.06.2021

Swedish automation boosts Tritex sewing operations

Founded in 1952, Svegea of Sweden – a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association – has over 60 years of experience in exclusively designing, manufacturing and installing high quality collarette band cutting machines worldwide.

These are used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as waistbands, cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements, such as Triteks Trejd.

Founded in 1994, this family-owned business employs over 280 people at its plant in Prilep, North Macedonia, where high quality cotton fabrics are expertly converted into the products of the Tritex Underwear brand.

The Prilep operation encompasses the processing of fabrics, design, cutting, sewing, quality control and packing in a fully integrated workflow.

With around 200 sewing machinists, the Tritex product range encompasses briefs, boxers, slips, t-shirts, pyjamas and body slips which are primarily sold to countries within the European Union, as well as the domestic market.

Founded in 1952, Svegea of Sweden – a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association – has over 60 years of experience in exclusively designing, manufacturing and installing high quality collarette band cutting machines worldwide.

These are used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as waistbands, cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements, such as Triteks Trejd.

Founded in 1994, this family-owned business employs over 280 people at its plant in Prilep, North Macedonia, where high quality cotton fabrics are expertly converted into the products of the Tritex Underwear brand.

The Prilep operation encompasses the processing of fabrics, design, cutting, sewing, quality control and packing in a fully integrated workflow.

With around 200 sewing machinists, the Tritex product range encompasses briefs, boxers, slips, t-shirts, pyjamas and body slips which are primarily sold to countries within the European Union, as well as the domestic market.

The company has also just completed the digitalisation of its full production via the in-house DPC-SYS system, installing around 200 industrial PCs linking each of its workstations and departments.

Triteks Trejd currently operates three of the latest Svegea collarette cutting machines and is highly satisfied with their performance, as well as the service provided by the Swedish company.

09.06.2021

EURATEX calls for an effective EU Industrial strategy

On the occasion of releasing its 2021 Spring Report, EURATEX calls the European Institutions to implement a new Industrial Strategy which will effectively support the European textiles industry. EURATEX welcomes the fact that Textile and Clothing industry is recognised as one of the 14 essential ecosystems of the European economy, but we need to take effective measures to support these sectors, and take into consideration the global dimension.

On the occasion of releasing its 2021 Spring Report, EURATEX calls the European Institutions to implement a new Industrial Strategy which will effectively support the European textiles industry. EURATEX welcomes the fact that Textile and Clothing industry is recognised as one of the 14 essential ecosystems of the European economy, but we need to take effective measures to support these sectors, and take into consideration the global dimension.

Economic data for 2020 in EURATEX Spring Report show preoccupying trends. Figures reflect a dramatic contraction in demand and production: EU turnover contracted by -9.3% in textiles (which is in line with the general manufacturing average) and by -17.7% in clothing, compared with 2019. Furthermore, supply chain disruptions and substantial price increases of some raw materials are putting significant pressure on the T&C industries across Europe. The trade deficit for European textiles and clothing jumped from € -47 bln in 2019 to € -62 bln in 2020, an increase of more than 30%, which is almost entirely due to the import of Chinese face masks and related products. Fortunately, more recent figures from the 1st quarter of 2021 indicate some signs of recovery.

That figure illustrates very well today’s political discussions on the future of the European industry. Many European companies have made considerable efforts to adapt their production to the pandemic, but clearly this was not enough. Whether the production cost in Europe is too high or the EU should adapt its procurement rules, the industry needs have a coherent long-term plan to become more competitive and conquer new markets.

EURATEX General Assembly highlighted the critical role of the new EU Industrial Strategy. The inclusion of textiles and clothing in the fourteen ecosystems is a step in the right direction to consolidate the industrial base but we should look also at the global challenges. European companies should continue investing in innovation, design and quality, in combination with a structural move towards more sustainable textiles. At the same time, the EU should create an environment - both inside the Single Market and globally - where everybody plays by the same rules.

Source:

Euratex

Montalvo awarded 2021 Exporter of the Year Award (c) The Montalvo Corporation
09.06.2021

Montalvo awarded 2021 Exporter of the Year Award

Montalvo, an international specialists in web tension control, has been awarded the 2021 Exporter of the Year Award from the Maine International Trade Center for outstanding commitment to strengthening Montalvo’s businesses through international markets.

Montalvo Corporation CEO Robin Goodwin. "This award feels like a validation of our strategy and the teamwork we have at Montalvo. This is huge for us. We are a small, family-owned company, and all of us here are excited as this award is something every single one of our employees shares in.  We have some great product development going, new industry’s we are getting into, and expanding our capabilities and solutions offering, so it’s a very exciting time for the company and our employees, and this award has only energized us further."

Montalvo sells to over 70 countries across the globe, with their headquarters in Maine, USA, and with operations in China and Europe.

Montalvo, an international specialists in web tension control, has been awarded the 2021 Exporter of the Year Award from the Maine International Trade Center for outstanding commitment to strengthening Montalvo’s businesses through international markets.

Montalvo Corporation CEO Robin Goodwin. "This award feels like a validation of our strategy and the teamwork we have at Montalvo. This is huge for us. We are a small, family-owned company, and all of us here are excited as this award is something every single one of our employees shares in.  We have some great product development going, new industry’s we are getting into, and expanding our capabilities and solutions offering, so it’s a very exciting time for the company and our employees, and this award has only energized us further."

Montalvo sells to over 70 countries across the globe, with their headquarters in Maine, USA, and with operations in China and Europe.

Source:

The Montalvo Corporation

Sappi: New Sublimation Paper for Textile Industry (c) Sappi
08.06.2021

Sappi: New Sublimation Paper for Textile Industry

Sappi offers Transjet Tacky Industrial, a coated dye sublimation paper for digital transfer printing, specially developed for high-speed inkjet printing on highly elastic textiles. Also new is the uncoated dye sublimation paper Basejet, which has been developed for light designs for high-speed digital printing of fashion and home textiles.

  • Transjet Tacky Industrial: Immediate tack effect, high ink transfer, fast ink drying; no ghosting on elastic textiles thanks to reversible tack
  • Basejet: Consistent print quality for light designs, fast ink-drying, very fast transfer process

Transjet Tacky Industrial enables highly elastic fabrics to be printed on industrial high-speed machines that work with a higher glycol content, such as printheads from Kyocera. The paper is first printed with the desired image or pattern which is then transferred to the elastic polyester fabric by means of heat and pressure.

Sappi offers Transjet Tacky Industrial, a coated dye sublimation paper for digital transfer printing, specially developed for high-speed inkjet printing on highly elastic textiles. Also new is the uncoated dye sublimation paper Basejet, which has been developed for light designs for high-speed digital printing of fashion and home textiles.

  • Transjet Tacky Industrial: Immediate tack effect, high ink transfer, fast ink drying; no ghosting on elastic textiles thanks to reversible tack
  • Basejet: Consistent print quality for light designs, fast ink-drying, very fast transfer process

Transjet Tacky Industrial enables highly elastic fabrics to be printed on industrial high-speed machines that work with a higher glycol content, such as printheads from Kyocera. The paper is first printed with the desired image or pattern which is then transferred to the elastic polyester fabric by means of heat and pressure.

Sublimation paper for the textile industry
The new dye sublimation paper offers many benefits for the textile industry, which frequently has to adapt to changing trends. As it is suitable for use on high-speed digital printers, significantly more designs can be printed in the same time than was previously possible on plotters. Thanks to a special heat-reactive coating, the paper adheres to highly stretchable content, while the reversible tack prevents ghosting and textile shrinkage. Transjet Tacky
Industrial has a high ink load capacity so the print can be better accentuated due to strong colour saturation. The design remains clearly visible when the fabric is stretched to its maximum, which is often the case with sportswear in particular.

Basejet specially for light designs
Sappi has also added the Basejet uncoated dye sublimation paper to its portfolio, an additional solution for the digital printing of fashion and home textiles in consistent print quality. The uncoated dye sublimation paper is intended in particular for light designs and cost-driven production processes.

Source:

Sappi Europe

Lenzing: Clear positioning of the EU Commission against plastic waste Photo: pixabay
08.06.2021

Lenzing: Clear positioning of the EU Commission against plastic waste

  • Guidelines of the EU Commission to implement the Single-Use Plastics Directive have been published
  • Uniform labelling obligation for wipes and feminine hygiene products containing plastics as of July 03, 2021
  • Lenzing’s wood-based, biodegradable VEOCEL™ branded fibers as a sustainable alternative to plastic

The Lenzing Group welcomes the issuance of the guidelines for the implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive (EU) 2019/904, which took effect on June 05, 20191. In these guidelines, the EU Commission specifies which products fall within the scope of the directive, thus providing clarity in the joint fight of the EU member states against environmental pollution from plastic waste. Lenzing’s wood-based, biodegradable cellulosic fibers such as those of the VEOCEL™ brand comprise a sustainable and innovative solution to this man-made problem.

  • Guidelines of the EU Commission to implement the Single-Use Plastics Directive have been published
  • Uniform labelling obligation for wipes and feminine hygiene products containing plastics as of July 03, 2021
  • Lenzing’s wood-based, biodegradable VEOCEL™ branded fibers as a sustainable alternative to plastic

The Lenzing Group welcomes the issuance of the guidelines for the implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive (EU) 2019/904, which took effect on June 05, 20191. In these guidelines, the EU Commission specifies which products fall within the scope of the directive, thus providing clarity in the joint fight of the EU member states against environmental pollution from plastic waste. Lenzing’s wood-based, biodegradable cellulosic fibers such as those of the VEOCEL™ brand comprise a sustainable and innovative solution to this man-made problem.

Uniform labelling rules for some single-use plastic products
The Commission implementing regulation (EU) 2020/2151 applying to the Single-Use Plastics Directive stipulate uniform labelling requirements for some of the single-use plastic products on the packaging or the product itself starting on July 03, 2021. They encompass feminine hygiene products and wet wipes for personal and household care containing plastic.

Consumers want sustainable hygiene products
Even before the implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive, Lenzing already gives consumers clear guidance in their purchasing decisions. Products bearing the VEOCEL™ brand logo on their packaging are produced in line with stringent certification criteria. As a consequence, consumers can be assured that the products contain biodegradable, cellulosic materials.

A Marketagent survey carried out in German-speaking Europe in October 20192 concluded that nine out of ten consumers would immediately change their purchasing behavior for wipes if they found out that their current product contains plastic. This would seem to imply that new market dynamics will emerge once the labelling rules for single-use plastic products takes effect. According to a Smithers Report3, about 500,000 tons of petroleum-based fibers are used each year for the production of wipes.

 

1 Directive (EU) 2019/904 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 5 June 2019 on the reduction of the impact of certain plastic products on the environment
2 Representative Marketagent Online survey, n = 1,005 (14 - 69 years old, from Austria and Germany). https://itsinourhands.com/
3 Smithers Report “The Future of Global Nonwoven Wipes to 2023”, published in 2018, page 23, reference year 2018

Source:

Lenzing AG

04.06.2021

Election of a new EPTA Board

During its members meeting of June 2nd, 2021, the European Pultrusion Technology Association (EPTA) elected a new board. All EPTA board members who stood for re-election have been confirmed again. Dr. Elmar Witten, Secretary of the EPTA, is happy about the continuity in the line-up of the EPTA board. "We will continue the current marketing activities to promote the pultrusion process," said Witten.

Thus, the board members for the next 4 years are:
Dr. Luigi Giamundo, ATP srl., Italy (Chairman)
Alfonso Branca, TOP GLASS, Italy
Dietmar Kühne, Ernst Kühne Kunststoffwerk, Germany
Sebastian Mehrtens, Fibrolux, Germany
Eric Moussiaux, Exel Composites, Belgium
Martin Zelinka, Owens Corning, France

Pultrusion is an important and continuously growing segment in the composites industry. It is a continuous manufacturing process of linear composite profiles made of polymeric resins such as polyesters and fiber reinforcement such as glass fibers. Automated Pultrusion Production Technology facilitates today's High Quality and Low-Cost demands by the market.

During its members meeting of June 2nd, 2021, the European Pultrusion Technology Association (EPTA) elected a new board. All EPTA board members who stood for re-election have been confirmed again. Dr. Elmar Witten, Secretary of the EPTA, is happy about the continuity in the line-up of the EPTA board. "We will continue the current marketing activities to promote the pultrusion process," said Witten.

Thus, the board members for the next 4 years are:
Dr. Luigi Giamundo, ATP srl., Italy (Chairman)
Alfonso Branca, TOP GLASS, Italy
Dietmar Kühne, Ernst Kühne Kunststoffwerk, Germany
Sebastian Mehrtens, Fibrolux, Germany
Eric Moussiaux, Exel Composites, Belgium
Martin Zelinka, Owens Corning, France

Pultrusion is an important and continuously growing segment in the composites industry. It is a continuous manufacturing process of linear composite profiles made of polymeric resins such as polyesters and fiber reinforcement such as glass fibers. Automated Pultrusion Production Technology facilitates today's High Quality and Low-Cost demands by the market.

EURATEX and IAF conventions take place from 7 to 9 November 2021 (c) EURATEX
31.05.2021

EURATEX and IAF conventions take place from 7 to 9 November 2021

From 7 to 9 November 2021, the world of apparel and textiles will meet in Antwerp, Belgium, for a double convention: the 36th World Fashion Convention on 7-8 November, hosted by IAF, and the 9th European Textiles and Apparel Convention on 8-9 November, hosted by EURATEX.

Delegates can choose to register for the IAF’s 36th World Fashion Convention, for EURATEX’s 9th European Textiles and Apparel Convention or for a combination of both, which the organisers of course recommend. The IAF Convention, carrying the theme ‘Transition of the Global Fashion System’ focusses on global industry developments whereas the EURATEX convention, themed “A new paradigm for the European Textiles and Clothing Industry”, has a strong European focus. Therefore, the two conventions are perfectly complementary.

The Antwerp Convention will be the first ‘live’ meeting for the industry in nearly two years’ time. That’s why the convention will combine knowledge with social events, notably the IAF and EURATEX joint networking dinner on 8 November in the Antwerp Fashion Museum.

From 7 to 9 November 2021, the world of apparel and textiles will meet in Antwerp, Belgium, for a double convention: the 36th World Fashion Convention on 7-8 November, hosted by IAF, and the 9th European Textiles and Apparel Convention on 8-9 November, hosted by EURATEX.

Delegates can choose to register for the IAF’s 36th World Fashion Convention, for EURATEX’s 9th European Textiles and Apparel Convention or for a combination of both, which the organisers of course recommend. The IAF Convention, carrying the theme ‘Transition of the Global Fashion System’ focusses on global industry developments whereas the EURATEX convention, themed “A new paradigm for the European Textiles and Clothing Industry”, has a strong European focus. Therefore, the two conventions are perfectly complementary.

The Antwerp Convention will be the first ‘live’ meeting for the industry in nearly two years’ time. That’s why the convention will combine knowledge with social events, notably the IAF and EURATEX joint networking dinner on 8 November in the Antwerp Fashion Museum.

Previous speakers at the EURATEX and IAF conventions came from PVH, Hugo Boss, Zegna, as well as European Commission, McKinsey, OECD, and London College of Fashion. About 150 delegates at each event, from over 20 countries are expected.

For more information click here.

Source:

EURATEX

28.05.2021

European TCLF sectors: Social Partners demand safety for the industries and their workers

Following the European Commission’s update of the 2020 New Industrial Strategy: ‘’Building a stronger Single Market for Europe’s Recovery’’, the European Social Partners for the Textile, Clothing, Leather, and Footwear (TCLF) sectors came together to call for support via a dedicated strategy.  The Strategy aims to help guide the TCLF industries through the current green and digital transition, while facing tough global competition, stressing the need to safeguard the industries and protect jobs in Europe.

On 25 May, employers’ and workers’ representatives for the European TCLF sectors met with the European Commission to discuss the current challenges facing the TCLF industries and potential EU action to help support the sectors and their workers.  Following discussions on the terrible impact of COVID-19 on the sectors and the need for a strong EU action, the Joint Statement: ‘’The future industrial strategy of the EU Textiles Ecosystem (TCLF sectors)’’ was adopted.

Following the European Commission’s update of the 2020 New Industrial Strategy: ‘’Building a stronger Single Market for Europe’s Recovery’’, the European Social Partners for the Textile, Clothing, Leather, and Footwear (TCLF) sectors came together to call for support via a dedicated strategy.  The Strategy aims to help guide the TCLF industries through the current green and digital transition, while facing tough global competition, stressing the need to safeguard the industries and protect jobs in Europe.

On 25 May, employers’ and workers’ representatives for the European TCLF sectors met with the European Commission to discuss the current challenges facing the TCLF industries and potential EU action to help support the sectors and their workers.  Following discussions on the terrible impact of COVID-19 on the sectors and the need for a strong EU action, the Joint Statement: ‘’The future industrial strategy of the EU Textiles Ecosystem (TCLF sectors)’’ was adopted.

The Joint Statement highlights the need for a dedicated strategy with support at national and EU level to help the TCLF sectors survive following the COVID-19 pandemic, while they continue to face tough, and, sometimes unfair, global competition. The Social Partners of the TCLF industries fully support the EU’s ambitions for a green and digital transition of the sectors, but insist on concrete European measures to help the industries transform while the continues to suffer from an unlevel global playing field.

Specific joint demands include: full engagement with Social Partners in both the recovery and the transition of the industries, support for the EU Pact for Skills for the relevant ecosystem, a revision of the GSP which doesn’t negatively impact the sectors and its workers, support to decarbonise the sectors, careful consideration of the Due Diligence Legislation and quality dialogue with Social Partners ahead of the EU Sustainable Products Initiative and the Consumer Agenda to ensure that all policy gaps are addressed. Special attention must also be given to the forthcoming EU Textiles Strategy which should fully represent the needs of the EU’s entire textiles ecosystem.

Sappi: New Production Site for Labels (c) Sappi Europe
28.05.2021

Sappi: New Production Site for Labels

The modern site in Gratkorn is one of the largest paper mills in Europe. With the portfolio expansion, Sappi will meet customer demands for base papers for non-wet-strength wet-glue and self-adhesive labels and keep pace with market growth. With more than 400 years of experience in paper production, the site in Gratkorn is renowned for high-quality, multi-coated fine papers used for graphical applications. Available capacity is being expanded gradually to include the production of Parade Label papers alongside existing graphical grades.

New products in the pipeline
The site in Gratkorn offers another benefit. The higher production capacity will enable the innovation leader Sappi to further expand its portfolio of label papers and open up new segments. This was previously not possible due to limited capacity at the existing locations. Michael Bethge, Sales Director Speciality Papers at Sappi, commented "In June of this year, we will launch Parade Label Pro in grammages of 80 and 90 g/m² following successful testing processes carried out internally and externally"

The modern site in Gratkorn is one of the largest paper mills in Europe. With the portfolio expansion, Sappi will meet customer demands for base papers for non-wet-strength wet-glue and self-adhesive labels and keep pace with market growth. With more than 400 years of experience in paper production, the site in Gratkorn is renowned for high-quality, multi-coated fine papers used for graphical applications. Available capacity is being expanded gradually to include the production of Parade Label papers alongside existing graphical grades.

New products in the pipeline
The site in Gratkorn offers another benefit. The higher production capacity will enable the innovation leader Sappi to further expand its portfolio of label papers and open up new segments. This was previously not possible due to limited capacity at the existing locations. Michael Bethge, Sales Director Speciality Papers at Sappi, commented "In June of this year, we will launch Parade Label Pro in grammages of 80 and 90 g/m² following successful testing processes carried out internally and externally"

Source:

Sappi Europe

26.05.2021

We aRe Spin Dye signs collaboration agreement with Hugo Boss

We aRe Spin Dye (WRSD) AB (publ) (“WRSD”) enters into a collaboration agreement with the international premium brand, Hugo Boss.

Hugo Boss has a clear agenda for how they will gradually become even more sustainable. One of the company's intermediate goals is to have reduced total water consumption by 40% by 2025 - where WRSD is expected to be involved and contribute with competence and technology. The long term goal for Hugo Boss is to be completely climate neutral by 2050.

In November, Hugo Boss Ag entered the Dow Jones Sustainability Index (DJSI) World for the fourth year in a row. Hugo Boss is thus one of the four companies in the textile, clothing and luxury segment that have qualified for the index this year. Hugo Boss is also listed in the Dow Jones Sustainability Index (DJSI) Europe for the first time. In the assessment carried out by S&P Global, HUGO BOSS improved significantly compared with the previous year and received, among other things, the assessment “best in class” in several categories.

We aRe Spin Dye (WRSD) AB (publ) (“WRSD”) enters into a collaboration agreement with the international premium brand, Hugo Boss.

Hugo Boss has a clear agenda for how they will gradually become even more sustainable. One of the company's intermediate goals is to have reduced total water consumption by 40% by 2025 - where WRSD is expected to be involved and contribute with competence and technology. The long term goal for Hugo Boss is to be completely climate neutral by 2050.

In November, Hugo Boss Ag entered the Dow Jones Sustainability Index (DJSI) World for the fourth year in a row. Hugo Boss is thus one of the four companies in the textile, clothing and luxury segment that have qualified for the index this year. Hugo Boss is also listed in the Dow Jones Sustainability Index (DJSI) Europe for the first time. In the assessment carried out by S&P Global, HUGO BOSS improved significantly compared with the previous year and received, among other things, the assessment “best in class” in several categories.

Source:

We aRe Spin Dye 

Mimaki appoints Mark Sollman as Product Manager EMEA (c) Mimaki Europe BV
Mark Sollman, Product Manager EMEA
21.05.2021

Mimaki appoints Mark Sollman as Product Manager EMEA

Mimaki, a manufacturer of inkjet printers and cutting systems, has today announced that long-standing employee, Mark Sollman, will be appointed to the role of Product Manager, EMEA on the 1st July 2021. Sollman has been with Mimaki for over 15 years and as such, his extensive knowledge of the business and its diverse product portfolio makes him the clear choice for this esteemed management position.

Sollman will be succeeding Bert Benckhuysen. After four years with Mimaki, Benckhuysen has decided to take on a new challenge as Business Development Director at Colourama. A valued Mimaki customer, Colourama is a company Benckhuysen knows well, having also previously been employed as Production Manager at this thriving Polish textile printer.

Mimaki, a manufacturer of inkjet printers and cutting systems, has today announced that long-standing employee, Mark Sollman, will be appointed to the role of Product Manager, EMEA on the 1st July 2021. Sollman has been with Mimaki for over 15 years and as such, his extensive knowledge of the business and its diverse product portfolio makes him the clear choice for this esteemed management position.

Sollman will be succeeding Bert Benckhuysen. After four years with Mimaki, Benckhuysen has decided to take on a new challenge as Business Development Director at Colourama. A valued Mimaki customer, Colourama is a company Benckhuysen knows well, having also previously been employed as Production Manager at this thriving Polish textile printer.

Source:

Mimaki Europe B.V / Bespoke

Benjamin Burghardt treibt die Operationalisierung des EECC Innovationsportfolios voran (c) EECC
Benjamin Burghardt, Product Development Officer
20.05.2021

Benjamin Burghardt treibt die Operationalisierung des EECC Innovationsportfolios voran

Benjamin Burghardt hat zum 1. Mai die neu geschaffene Position des Product Development Officer übernommen, um EECC Lösungen und Ideen von Lieferkettenmanagement bis hin zum Digitalen Couponing in operative Produkte zu überführen.

Das European EPC Competence Center (EECC) verfügt über ein breites Innovations- und Lösungsportfolio, welches auf GS1 Germany Standards aufsetzt. Seit 2005 kreiert und demonstriert das EECC in seinen Innovation-Labs Prozesslösungen auf Basis serialisierter Daten für Kunden aus Industrie, Logistik und Handel. In vielen Technologien – von Auto-ID, Computer Vision bis hin zu Blockchain und KI – ist das EECC bedeutsam. Viele Kunden drängen nun darauf diese Mehrwerte entlang ihrer Lieferkette operativ zu heben. „Ich freue mich Benjamin Burghardt für das EECC gewonnen zu haben. Er hat langjährige Erfahrung in der Implementierung innovativer Technologien und steht wie wenige für die Sicht unserer Kunden aus Handel und Logistik.“, so Conrad von Bonin, Geschäftsführer des EECC.

Benjamin Burghardt hat zum 1. Mai die neu geschaffene Position des Product Development Officer übernommen, um EECC Lösungen und Ideen von Lieferkettenmanagement bis hin zum Digitalen Couponing in operative Produkte zu überführen.

Das European EPC Competence Center (EECC) verfügt über ein breites Innovations- und Lösungsportfolio, welches auf GS1 Germany Standards aufsetzt. Seit 2005 kreiert und demonstriert das EECC in seinen Innovation-Labs Prozesslösungen auf Basis serialisierter Daten für Kunden aus Industrie, Logistik und Handel. In vielen Technologien – von Auto-ID, Computer Vision bis hin zu Blockchain und KI – ist das EECC bedeutsam. Viele Kunden drängen nun darauf diese Mehrwerte entlang ihrer Lieferkette operativ zu heben. „Ich freue mich Benjamin Burghardt für das EECC gewonnen zu haben. Er hat langjährige Erfahrung in der Implementierung innovativer Technologien und steht wie wenige für die Sicht unserer Kunden aus Handel und Logistik.“, so Conrad von Bonin, Geschäftsführer des EECC.

Benjamin Burghardt hat sich seit 2008 den Handelsinnovationen verschrieben, als er im Innovationsmanagement der Future Store Initiative seine Karriere startete. Als Head of Innovation der Metro AG hat er sich seit 2013 um das Prototyping und die Einführung von neuen Kundenlösungen und Geschäftsfeldern wie IoT gekümmert. Als Abteilungsleiter Strategie Projekte IT der Vertriebslinie real hat er verschiedenste Innovationen in operative Strukturen überführt und verantwortet.

Source:

European EPC Competence Center GmbH

(c) Teijin Carbon Europe GmbH
19.05.2021

Teijin Carbon produces new thermoplastic PPS-Tape

Teijin Carbon Europe introduces a new thermoplastic carbon fiber tape (TPUD) based on PPS. The new Tenax™ TPUD with PPS matrix allows entry in new cost-sensitive markets while offering the typical TPUD advantages like high resistance to chemicals and solvents, low flammability, storage or shipping at room temperature and recyclability.  

Due to its flame retardant properties and low smoke emission, it can be used in interior applications of aircraft or rail vehicles, among others. The maximum continuous operating temperature is up to 220 °C. Very low water absorption, excellent creep resistance even at elevated temperatures and high dimensional stability round off the property portfolio of this new TPUD. It is therefore also suitable for demanding applications in the aerospace, oil & gas, sporting goods or industrial sectors, while remaining cost-effective. These properties make the product perfect for highly automated processing routes such as ATL or AFP in combination with overmolding for complex geometries. Production start for the Tenax™ TPUD with PPS matrix is the first quarter in 2021.

Teijin Carbon Europe introduces a new thermoplastic carbon fiber tape (TPUD) based on PPS. The new Tenax™ TPUD with PPS matrix allows entry in new cost-sensitive markets while offering the typical TPUD advantages like high resistance to chemicals and solvents, low flammability, storage or shipping at room temperature and recyclability.  

Due to its flame retardant properties and low smoke emission, it can be used in interior applications of aircraft or rail vehicles, among others. The maximum continuous operating temperature is up to 220 °C. Very low water absorption, excellent creep resistance even at elevated temperatures and high dimensional stability round off the property portfolio of this new TPUD. It is therefore also suitable for demanding applications in the aerospace, oil & gas, sporting goods or industrial sectors, while remaining cost-effective. These properties make the product perfect for highly automated processing routes such as ATL or AFP in combination with overmolding for complex geometries. Production start for the Tenax™ TPUD with PPS matrix is the first quarter in 2021.

For almost 10 years, unidirectional tapes (TPUD) have been manufactured from carbon fibers and thermoplastics in Heinsberg, Germany. The semi-finished products have so far been offered with PEEK or PAEK – and PPS is now added to the list of available matrixes. PPS allows a lower process temperature compared to PEEK or PAEK. For the industrial market in particular, increasing the production rate to make processes more cost-efficient is an opportunity.

Source:

Teijin Carbon Europe GmbH

Mimaki: Futterstoffe mit Mehrwert durch Digitaldruck (c) Gi.Tessil Foderami
11.05.2021

Mimaki: Futterstoffe mit Mehrwert durch Digitaldruck

Das auf die Herstellung von Futterstoffen „Made in Italy“ spezialisierte Unternehmen Gi.Tessil Foderami erweiterte seinen Maschinenpark aus 28 Jacquard-Webmaschinen um ein erstes digitales Textildrucksystem TX300P-1800B von Mimaki, um einen Qualitätsvorsprung gegenüber den Mitbewerbern zu erzielen.

Produkt- und Servicequalität sind das Unterscheidungsmerkmal von Gi.Tessil Foderami, einem Spezialisten für Futterstoffe „Made in Italy“. Durch den Einsatz modernster Technologien und nachhaltiger Rohstoffe ist es dem Unternehmen gelungen, sich als einer der Hauptanbieter von Jacquard-Futterstoffen in Europa zu etablieren.

Die Unternehmensphilosophie, die auf die Erprobung neuer, innovativer Technologien zur Wahrung höchster Standards ausgerichtet ist, hat nun zu einem weiteren großen Schritt nach vorn geführt – der Investition in digitalen Textildruck.

Das auf die Herstellung von Futterstoffen „Made in Italy“ spezialisierte Unternehmen Gi.Tessil Foderami erweiterte seinen Maschinenpark aus 28 Jacquard-Webmaschinen um ein erstes digitales Textildrucksystem TX300P-1800B von Mimaki, um einen Qualitätsvorsprung gegenüber den Mitbewerbern zu erzielen.

Produkt- und Servicequalität sind das Unterscheidungsmerkmal von Gi.Tessil Foderami, einem Spezialisten für Futterstoffe „Made in Italy“. Durch den Einsatz modernster Technologien und nachhaltiger Rohstoffe ist es dem Unternehmen gelungen, sich als einer der Hauptanbieter von Jacquard-Futterstoffen in Europa zu etablieren.

Die Unternehmensphilosophie, die auf die Erprobung neuer, innovativer Technologien zur Wahrung höchster Standards ausgerichtet ist, hat nun zu einem weiteren großen Schritt nach vorn geführt – der Investition in digitalen Textildruck.

Digitaldruck als Weichenstellung
Nach der Sichtung mehrerer Digitaldrucklösungen auf dem Markt fiel die Wahl auf das TX300P-1800B von Mimaki – ein Textildirektdrucksystem mit automatisiertem Druckdeckenvorschub und Eignung für Pigmenttinten, das Gi.Tessil Foderami bei Mimaki Bompan Textile erwarb

Nach den ersten Monaten mit dem Mimaki TX300P-1800B zieht Paolo Giamberini, Eigentümer und CEO, eine Erfolgsbilanz: „Im Hinblick auf das Anwendungsspektrum haben wir unsere ursprünglichen Ziele nicht nur erreicht, sondern sogar noch übertroffen. Neben dem On-Demand-Druck auf eigene Stoffe können wir auch von den Kunden gelieferte Materialien mit ganz ähnlichen Motiven versehen – und dies in völlig neuen Einsatzbereichen, wie bei den derzeit so gefragten Schutzmasken.“ So ergeben sich beachtliche Ertragschancen und Zukunftspotenziale, die Giamberini wie folgt resümiert: „Das Digitaldrucksystem Mimaki TX300P-1800B ist äußerst flexibel und vielseitig. Sein Produktionspotenzial von schätzungsweise 14.000 Metern jährlich haben wir noch nicht einmal voll ausgeschöpft, was im Wesentlichen an zwei Faktoren liegt – der Zeit, die erforderlich ist, um unsere Kunden an diese innovative Technologie heranzuführen, und dann natürlich auch der COVID-19-Krise, die das gesamte Projekt verzögert hat. So konnten wir unser Musterbuch noch gar nicht offiziell präsentieren. Aber jede Krise geht vorüber, und wenn es so weit ist, werden wir wohl schon bald eine weitere Investition dieser Art in Erwägung ziehen.“

Source:

Mimaki Europe BV

06.05.2021

SEEK, PREMIUM and FASHIONTECH cancelled – moved to January 2022

“The consequences of the ongoing pandemic spread of the coronavirus continue to govern our personal and professional lives. It is with a heavy heart that we must cancel the physical events in July, since these are not allowed to take place given the current legal constraints. Due to the lack of certainty for planning and new monthly evaluation we need to fulfil our obligations as event organiser and avoid unforeseeable risks for partners and clients.” Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP

A lack of permissions, adjustments to official measures at short notice, travel restrictions within Europe and overseas, potential quarantine obligations, short-term work in many companies – overall, a volatile situation makes it impossible to press ahead with the necessary planning in a responsible, risk-free way, especially for the exhibitors and partners.

Because of this, the organizers are now forced to cancel SEEK, PREMIUM and FASHIONTECH events in July 2021 and move them to January 2022 instead. Safeguarding the health and safety of exhibitors, guests, partners and employees always takes top priority.

“The consequences of the ongoing pandemic spread of the coronavirus continue to govern our personal and professional lives. It is with a heavy heart that we must cancel the physical events in July, since these are not allowed to take place given the current legal constraints. Due to the lack of certainty for planning and new monthly evaluation we need to fulfil our obligations as event organiser and avoid unforeseeable risks for partners and clients.” Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP

A lack of permissions, adjustments to official measures at short notice, travel restrictions within Europe and overseas, potential quarantine obligations, short-term work in many companies – overall, a volatile situation makes it impossible to press ahead with the necessary planning in a responsible, risk-free way, especially for the exhibitors and partners.

Because of this, the organizers are now forced to cancel SEEK, PREMIUM and FASHIONTECH events in July 2021 and move them to January 2022 instead. Safeguarding the health and safety of exhibitors, guests, partners and employees always takes top priority.

SEEK and PREMIUM are live events and therefore spaces for engaging with others face-to-face. They are a vital meeting point for the whole industry that can only be augmented by our digital offerings. Under the current unpredictable conditions the usual levels of service cannot be guaranteed for clients and visitors.

July will see the start of Frankfurt Fashion Week (FFW) digital. Frankfurt Fashion Week Studio is the core element of the FFW opening season and encompasses the whole FFW ecosystem – with its key themes of Fashion Business, sustainability and digitisation – in the form of a digital portal.

FFW Studio is a progressively curated and staged platform that brings together all German fashion trade shows, conferences, fashion experiences and events under one roof for the first time. First as a digital venue, then as a hybrid one. For pioneers, brands, experiences, entertainment and networking.

“Over the past year we have felt a great sense of solidarity. The industry has given us enormous encouragement and the assurance that we are not only missed but needed. So we want to say thank you from the bottom of our hearts! We can't wait to get together in a few short months’ time to present concepts and projects, meet up face-to-face, and shape the future together. Now more than ever!” Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP   

More information:
SEEK, Fashion Week PREMIUM
Source:

PREMIUM GROUP

05.05.2021

EURATEX comments on revised EU Industry Strategy

  • European Apparel and Textile Confederation EURATEX welcomes revamped EU Industry Strategy, but calls for consistency across EU policies

Europe’s industry is going through turbulent times as a result of the corona-pandemic; turnover in textiles and clothing sector dropped between 10 and 20%. However, even bigger challenges lie ahead: serious disruptions in supply chains, soaring energy prices and protective tendencies are threatening the competitiveness of our industry.

Against that background, the revised EU Industry Strategy – launched on May, 5 - is addressing very relevant issues, and underlines the need to think carefully about Europe’s industrial base. EURATEX welcomes the initiative, including the focus on 14 “eco-systems” and the proposal to develop privileged partnerships with trusted partners.

  • European Apparel and Textile Confederation EURATEX welcomes revamped EU Industry Strategy, but calls for consistency across EU policies

Europe’s industry is going through turbulent times as a result of the corona-pandemic; turnover in textiles and clothing sector dropped between 10 and 20%. However, even bigger challenges lie ahead: serious disruptions in supply chains, soaring energy prices and protective tendencies are threatening the competitiveness of our industry.

Against that background, the revised EU Industry Strategy – launched on May, 5 - is addressing very relevant issues, and underlines the need to think carefully about Europe’s industrial base. EURATEX welcomes the initiative, including the focus on 14 “eco-systems” and the proposal to develop privileged partnerships with trusted partners.

At the same time, EURATEX calls for more consistency by the EU across its different policy areas. Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented: “We welcome the recognition that we need a strong industrial base in Europe, but at the same time are struggling to maintain that base, as our companies face significant challenges related to over-regulation and raising energy and supply costs. It feels like one hand offering you help, while the other hand squeezes you tight”.

Looking at the global perspective, EURATEX is not calling to close the European borders; our industrial model relies on accessing global markets. But clearly, there is a need to establish global rules to ensure fair competition, and make sure these rules are properly implemented and controlled. Also today’s proposal to address distortions caused by foreign subsidies in the Single Market, should be welcomed in this context.

Dirk Vantyghem concluded: “European textiles and clothing industry went through turbulent times. Today, as part of this new EU Industry Strategy, we have an opportunity to build a new business model, based on innovation, quality, sustainability and fairness. We look forward to develop that new EU Textile strategy with all stakeholders involved.”

 

More information:
Euratex
Source:

EURATEX

29.04.2021

ISKO launches bluesign® APPROVED fabrics

ISKO announced the launch of bluesign® APPROVED fabrics. The only denim mill in Europe with bluesign® APPROVED fabrics, and one of the highest achievement’s in sustainability. This won honour is only awarded to those that meet the strict safety and environmental requirements of the bluesign® CRITERIA. These certified articles are made from bluesign® APPROVED chemicals and raw materials, and are manufactured with a minimum impact on people and the environment. This enables brands to provide safe products to their consumers, verified as bluesign® PRODUCT, which are sustainably produced without hazardous chemicals.

“When the goal is big, the effort is big. Choosing the right partner means taking safe steps. In this sense, I can gladly say that we will continue on our way with the bluesign® chemical followup process.” – Ebru ÖZKÜÇÜK, Head of Sustainability ISKO.

Through this partnership and certification, ISKO and bluesign® continue their vision of a textile and fashion industry with a future that focuses more attention on people and the environment, because only when both are considered can the industry truly make a positive, long-lasting impact.

ISKO announced the launch of bluesign® APPROVED fabrics. The only denim mill in Europe with bluesign® APPROVED fabrics, and one of the highest achievement’s in sustainability. This won honour is only awarded to those that meet the strict safety and environmental requirements of the bluesign® CRITERIA. These certified articles are made from bluesign® APPROVED chemicals and raw materials, and are manufactured with a minimum impact on people and the environment. This enables brands to provide safe products to their consumers, verified as bluesign® PRODUCT, which are sustainably produced without hazardous chemicals.

“When the goal is big, the effort is big. Choosing the right partner means taking safe steps. In this sense, I can gladly say that we will continue on our way with the bluesign® chemical followup process.” – Ebru ÖZKÜÇÜK, Head of Sustainability ISKO.

Through this partnership and certification, ISKO and bluesign® continue their vision of a textile and fashion industry with a future that focuses more attention on people and the environment, because only when both are considered can the industry truly make a positive, long-lasting impact.

Uncoated, ultra-bright virgin fibre liner with exceptional feel and colour reproduction (c) Sappi
Fusion Nature Blog
20.04.2021

Uncoated, ultra-bright virgin fibre liner with exceptional feel and colour reproduction

Sappi is expanding its product range for corrugated board applications with Fusion Nature Plus.

With Fusion Nature Plus, Sappi is launching an uncoated, fully bleached and completely recyclable virgin fibre liner. The company provides a unique variety of packaging and speciality papers. The specialist in paper-based solutions also offers a wide range of products in relation to labels. Fusion Nature Plus offers excellent printing results in flexographic, digital and offset printing processes.

  • Ultra-bright, uncoated virgin fibre paper with excellent printing results
  • Ideal for attractive corrugated board as well as premium shopping bags
  • Can be used as topliner, liner or fluting
  • Available in grammages of 80 to 130 g/m²

The virgin fibre liner is based on the concept of the successful Fusion Topliner. In contrast to the double-coated Fusion Topliner, Fusion Nature Plus has a natural, uncoated surface with a more tactile feel, in response to the growing market appetite for this type of product. The liner is also provided in very low grammages.

Sappi is expanding its product range for corrugated board applications with Fusion Nature Plus.

With Fusion Nature Plus, Sappi is launching an uncoated, fully bleached and completely recyclable virgin fibre liner. The company provides a unique variety of packaging and speciality papers. The specialist in paper-based solutions also offers a wide range of products in relation to labels. Fusion Nature Plus offers excellent printing results in flexographic, digital and offset printing processes.

  • Ultra-bright, uncoated virgin fibre paper with excellent printing results
  • Ideal for attractive corrugated board as well as premium shopping bags
  • Can be used as topliner, liner or fluting
  • Available in grammages of 80 to 130 g/m²

The virgin fibre liner is based on the concept of the successful Fusion Topliner. In contrast to the double-coated Fusion Topliner, Fusion Nature Plus has a natural, uncoated surface with a more tactile feel, in response to the growing market appetite for this type of product. The liner is also provided in very low grammages.

Fusion Nature Plus enhances brand appearance

Brand owners, corrugated board processors, manufacturers of display cartons and folding cartons as well as designers all benefit from the versatility of the new Fusion Nature Plus. In contrast to conventional uncoated liner papers, the material offers high brightness, brilliant colour reproduction and consistently high quality. These features make the product the perfect choice for corrugated board or solid board packaging, where a very bright appearance is needed for topliners, inner liners and corrugating applications. Whether used as an inlay in cosmetics or confectionery packaging, or as a liner in shipping packaging to ensure an exceptional unboxing experience, Fusion Nature Plus is called upon wherever an enhanced appearance is desired.

Another area of application is paper carrier bags, where uncoated paper qualities are often preferred.

Fusion Nature Plus is ideally suited to a range of printing processes: the product achieves outstanding results in flexographic and offset printing. The pre-treated surface and high brightness offer clear advantages with regard to primer requirements and print behaviour, especially for inkjet-based digital printing. Bernd Gelder, Head of Sales Containerboard at Sappi Europe: ‘With its exceptional print quality and impressive colour reproduction, Fusion Nature Plus particularly appeals to packaging customers who value a natural look and feel in paper. The response from the market, in which packaging based on corrugated board still needs to take on a bigger role, is enormous, of course, with the result that we have succeeded in completing a number of interesting end applications and customer projects with Fusion Nature Plus shortly after market launch.’

Virgin fibre vital for recycling

In continuous recycling use, fiber that has already been recycled is subject to a progressive weakening of quality, resulting in a weakness in the products that incorporate them, but also, crucially, over time they will ultimately degrade to a point where they become unrecoverable. As a result, a certain amount of virgin fibre needs to be introduced into the cycle on a regular basis. Without continuous virgin fibre contribution to the pulp cycle, recycled producers will in the end run out of raw material. The premium virgin fibre liner Fusion Nature Plus from Sappi plays an important role here in maintaining the quality of the recycling substrate.

Thanks to the central location of Sappi’s production site in Ehingen, Fusion Nature Plus can be supplied quickly throughout Europe. The shorter transportation distances reduce transport related fossil emissions and protect the environment. The shorter production cycles in turn ensure high availability and rapid supply.

Fusion Nature Plus is currently available in six grammages from 80 to 130 g/m² in both sheet and roll form. Sappi can also provide Fusion Nature Plus with FSC or PEFC certificates on request.

DENIMAZING: a new denim world (c) DENIMAZING
New Denim World
14.04.2021

DENIMAZING: a new denim world

  • The new platform created for b2b / b2c online sales entirely dedicated to the business of denim.

The year 2020 witnessed an acceleration in the importance of online sales. It is now clear to anyone involved the business of sales that e-commerce represents the future.

That’s when the creative idea by Laura Pianazza, founder of DENIMAZING (combination of DENIM and AMAZING), was launched on the platform powered by VELVET.  Its prime objective is to help small and medium sized companies to increase their online sales, focusing on the development of marketing strategies in an omnichannel environment thanks to an intelligent balance between technology and professional experience.

  • The new platform created for b2b / b2c online sales entirely dedicated to the business of denim.

The year 2020 witnessed an acceleration in the importance of online sales. It is now clear to anyone involved the business of sales that e-commerce represents the future.

That’s when the creative idea by Laura Pianazza, founder of DENIMAZING (combination of DENIM and AMAZING), was launched on the platform powered by VELVET.  Its prime objective is to help small and medium sized companies to increase their online sales, focusing on the development of marketing strategies in an omnichannel environment thanks to an intelligent balance between technology and professional experience.

Laura Pianazza derives her professional experience from the editorial sector, where she was active for many years on a European level for a trade magazine specialized in the denim business. Thanks to this background, she was able to develop a strong network of contacts with entrepreneurs, top management and marketing agencies. Her constant interaction with customers shed light on the digital challenges present in most Italian companies: firstly, the fragmentation of services offered online and, secondly, the lack of integration between technology and marketing strategies. The latter is the one most often neglected by firms and Laura recognized many risked not being well prepared for this transformational shift in business by investing little time and at a slow pace.

The DENIMAZING project works side by side with denim fabric manufacturing companies (b2b), finished product brands and distribution companies (b2c), all with the same common denominator: denim. A unique service assisting raw materials manufacturers in finding market niches in companies that create product, who in their own right would like their brand to be seen and sold to a growing customer base. In the b2b landscape, companies can sell their own fabrics by the meter thanks to their own 3D presentation and customers can virtually visit their showrooms. Similarly, brands will have the same possibility to sell their creations as on a real e-commerce site, thanks to virtual tours in their showroom and specific areas for sales and/or chatting/videocalls with end-customers. Instead, for companies providing supply chain services (coloring, washing, etc.), individual virtual rooms will be made available inside the marketplace, in order to speak directly with sales managers from brands and the fabric companies.

The business side is just one aspect of this project. Thanks to its partnership with the marketing and online sales agency VELVET, DENIMAZING grows based upon a series of key tasks during different phases, namely: platform construction, marketing and advertising, both traditional and via web and social medias.

Not only has Laura has added a series of high-level technology/web master courses to her experience, but DENIMAZING also brings together a team of qualified professionals having a longtime experience in different fields of the denim business: sales, entrepreneurs, web design and marketing, while the end-customer will be in direct contact with the headquarters for assistance, customer care and updates.

Source:


EFFE-BI SRL
PR MEDIA AGENCY