From the Sector

• C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 winner DUARTE returns to Milan Fashion Week launching its SEASON 2 “Eco-Street Dance” collection as a special feature at White Sustainable Milano inside the “Unveiling the fashion backstage” event

By mixing C.L.A.S.S. responsible materials, colorful prints, urban feels and artistic inspiration, the Portuguese streetwear brand creates a new style and a clear yet cool message for conscious fashion consumers
The rewarded 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to presents its Fall/Winter 2022/23 collection developed in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub during Milan Fashion Week. With the support of WHITE, Duarte’s creations will be featured as a special project at WSM (WHITE Sustainable Milano) platform space inside “Unveiling the fashion Backstage”, a docu-event focusing on an immersive journey into the amazing world of premium and smart supply chains that make innovative and responsible fashion wardrobes a reality.

For its second collection Duarte still counts on C.L.A.S.S. support in sourcing materials and communication activities as part of the Icon Award yearly program. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte, with the help of the Milanese hub, is back with a renewed collection that counts 40 pieces continuing the concept and the story behind the previous World Keeper: the irresistible superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog – fighting against the environmental issues created by mankind and personified as Smog Man (air pollution), Fire Man (climate change), Deforestation Man (forests destruction) and Wave Man (water overconsumption).

This time the inspiration is also Street Dance drawn directly from the city streets, with majorly unisex pieces (apart from some small specific details linked to sizes or ergonomics) and materials that both respect the planet and keep you warm. The prints drawn from ripped posters giving birth to a sort of new style that we can name “Eco-Street Dance”. The color palette explores the dark shades of grey, cream, blue and black, with artistic pops of color of a hopeful urban culture that tears apart posters from the past and turns them into a new brighter story. 

The linings complete the full sustainable picture, thanks to Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabrics by Gianni Crespi Foderami. Bemberg™ is a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter pre-consumer material, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process. Entirely made in Japan, it comes with Compostability and Ecotoxicity Certifications verified by Innovhub-SSI, RCS, OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 and the Eco Mark certifications. The factory is ISO 14001 certified, too.

The collection will mark the return of Duarte’s cool and responsible style to Milan Fashion week and White Sustainable Milano. “We are proud to support Duarte as her style, her creations, visual communication and message are so beautiful, innovative and responsible. On top of that, her message to the consumer is so clear and easy for everybody to understand. With Duarte it is very easy to make a “conscious choice” without any sacrifice, and completely in line with the C.L.A.S.S. manifesto” says Giusy Bettoni, C.L.A.S.S. CEO & founder.

• Record high: 12,338 (+19%) GOTS certified facilities in 79 countries in 2021  

Twenty years after its inception, the textile processing standard for organic fibres records new all-time high figures: 18 GOTS Approved Certification Bodies report a total of 12,338 certified facilities (+19%) in 79 countries (+11%).  

Among the countries with the largest increase in GOTS certified facilities in 2021 are Turkey (+61% to 1.799), Italy (+53% to 894), Germany (+19% to 817), Portugal (+35% to 608), France (+22% to 122), Denmark (+14% to 115), Switzerland (+15% to 61), Belgium (+55% to 59), Sweden (+34% to 51) and Vietnam (+264% to 51).

“What seemed utopian to many in 2002 has become a reality in the past 20 years. We have created an organic textile standard, certified by approved certification bodies, which is accepted in all major markets. GOTS is a standard that gives consumers the power to choose truly organic products sourced from sustainable supply chains.” says Claudia Kersten, Managing Director at GOTS. “Despite ongoing difficulties and uncertainty caused by the Covid-19 pandemic, decision-makers continue to pursue their sustainability goals and value GOTS as a tool to accomplish them”.

The results of the annual GOTS Survey among certified entities underline this. Out of 1.114 respondents (+39%), 63% indicated a permanent shift in their sustainability strategy with a focus on the environment and health of their workers and staff.

Growing interest from industry, the public, and the media drove website visits up an impressive 48%. Media exposure grew by 64% and GOTS social media followers across several platforms jumped by 57%.
“As much as we are pleased with the development so far, we don’t intend to rest on our laurels” adds Rahul Bhajekar, Managing Director at GOTS. “In March 2022 we begin revision for GOTS version 7.0 involving all stakeholders including associations, organisations, companies, and individuals to further advance the progressive, innovative, stringent yet practical standard of GOTS”.

The 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to presents its Fall/Winter 2022/23 collection developed in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub during Milan Fashion Week. With the support of WHITE, Duarte’s creations will be featured as a special project at WSM (WHITE Sustainable Milano) platform space inside “Unveiling the fashion Backstage”, a docu-event focusing on an immersive journey into the amazing world of premium and smart supply chains that make innovative and responsible fashion wardrobes a reality.

For its second collection Duarte still counts on C.L.A.S.S. support in sourcing materials and communication activities as part of the Icon Award yearly program. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte, with the help of the Milanese hub, is back with a renewed collection that counts 40 pieces continuing the concept and the story behind the previous World Keeper: the irresistible superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog – fighting against the environmental issues created by mankind and personified as Smog Man (air pollution), Fire Man (climate change), Deforestation Man (forests destruction) and Wave Man (water overconsumption).

This time the inspiration is also Street Dance drawn directly from the city streets, with majorly unisex pieces (apart from some small specific details linked to sizes or ergonomics) and materials that both respect the planet and keep you warm. The prints drawn from ripped posters giving birth to a sort of new style named “Eco-Street Dance”.

The collection presents a selection of urban pieces for everyday superheroes, fighting against environmental issues - with a holistic approach to sustainability values thanks to the synergy with C.L.A.S.S. and its Back in the Loop area: a section dedicated to alternative and sustainable sourcing against the massive amount of materials and textiles produced that are not used and discarded by the fashion system. This is mostly powered by MAEBA International - and its ReLiveTex® fabrics - leader in selecting and repurposing premium Italian fabrics with exceptional 60 years of expertise in collecting high-quality materials from leading brands and textile manufacturers, and one of the first companies at an international level to be accredited for the UNI EN ISO 14021 certification which grants the traceability of the collected materials.

The linings complete the full sustainable picture, thanks to Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabrics by Gianni Crespi Foderami. Bemberg™ is a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter pre-consumer material, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process.

• Based on high-tech finishing, responsible materials and certified partnerships
• With multicolored flock, zero water printing, chenille and metallic effects, the company is at the forefront in establishing a responsible lace supply chain

Legend has it that a sailor brought his beloved a seaweed from distant seas as a gift. The woman, wanting to preserve its beauty, replicated the design and holes with needle and thread. And so lace was born. Since that moment, lace has lived within the walls of churches and castles, visited race tracks and catwalks, changing shape and color according to seasons and times.

Among the companies involved in writing a new chapter in the history of lace, Iluna Group definitely stands out. Founded in 1970 from an idea of its founder Luigi Annovazzi, over the years Iluna has responded to the challenges posed by the market in terms of technology and sustainability.

Since 2017 Iluna has been using only sustainable and certified ROICA™ stretch yarns from the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, while the percentage of sustainable references has risen from 3% in 2018 to 52% in 2021.

There are four main proposals presented by Iluna Group during Milano Unica:

• Flock in flounce or allover entirely made with recycled ingredients and equipped with endless printing possibilities, with 3D and multicolor effects that allow the inclusion in fashion, underwear and athleisure looks. All certified GRS (Global Recycled Standard).
   
• Continued investment in both the Green Label and Bioline, two collections totally dedicated to innovative and responsible aesthetics. Both include lace made with the responsible 6.6 polyamide yarn Amni Soul Eco® and the degradable stretch fiber ROICA™ V550, combined with natural vegetable dyes with OEKO TEX and GOTS certifications.
   
• The union of a chenille yarn blended with FSC-certified viscose and Renycle® yarn, a product obtained by recycling nylon 6, a high-value material with excellent strength, dyeing, softness and versatility, gives life to surprising new Textronic. The embossed designs with 3D effect create a cloud effect that, combined with Lurex, gives unexpected glows.
   
• GRS-certified tulles printed with GREENDROP technology, the new GOTS-certified digital pigment printing system, with lower energy consumption and low water waste, thanks to an internal closed-circuit process for water recycling.

The textile service provider Hohenstein has successfully extended its accreditations as a testing laboratory and certification body to include FFP (Filtering Face Pieces) respiratory masks in accordance with DIN EN 149, thus completing its portfolio in the textile mask sector. The necessary functional and safety tests on community masks, medical masks and FFP respiratory masks contribute to consumer safety. In addition, Hohenstein has not only been a member of the German Mask Association since September 2021, which pools the expertise of all mask manufacturers and suppliers in Germany, but also supports the Quality Working Group with its expertise in the field of textile protective clothing.

Filtering Face Pieces are primarily used for the self-protection of the wearer and are intended to protect from harmful aerosols, particles and droplets. There are different protection levels for FFP respiratory masks (FFP 1-3), depending on how well they retain liquid and solid particles. In occupational safety, they are part of personal protective equipment (PPE) and fall under category III. Their protective function is specified throughout Europe by the DIN EN 149:2009-08 standard, which requires laboratory tests and practical performance tests with test persons. The Hohenstein testing laboratory carries out reliable proof of the safety of FFP respiratory masks in several test steps:

• Through visual inspection, the Hohenstein experts assess the correct labelling, the comprehensibility of the enclosed instructions for using the masks, as well as the functionality and packaging.   
• Laboratory tests can determine, among other things, breathing resistance, filter medium transmittance and inward leakage. The practical performance of FFP respiratory masks is assessed through realistic tests with test persons.
• Test persons can also be employed to assess other parameters such as skin tolerance, field of vision or headgear comfort.
• Optional tests, such as testing FFP respiratory masks for harmful substances, complete the safety verification.

Since the beginning of the pandemic, a particularly large number of FFP respiratory masks with doubtful and even false labelling have been in circulation, so reliable and neutral testing and certification of these products is essential. Hohenstein, with its many years of extensive experience in the testing and certification of personal protective equipment, thus offers the ideal service for customers who value testing quality "Made in Germany".

As a testing laboratory for medical devices, Hohenstein also offers testing of medical face masks for their bacterial filtering performance, differential pressure as an indicator of breathing activity, microbiological purity and cytotoxicity, among others. Medical face masks fall under the Medical Devices Regulation 2017/745 and fulfil the requirements according to EN 14683. The testing service provider Hohenstein has already taken a big step towards safety and functionality with the introduction of its quality label for Tested Community Masks in June 2020 and also tests according to the first European Guideline for Everyday Masks, the CEN Workshop Agreement (CWA) 17553:2020.

The Hygiene Division of Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) is pleased to announce that two of its manufacturing sites have achieved International Sustainability Carbon Certification Plus Certification.

FiberVisions’ Varde site in Denmark, a polypropylene fiber producer, and Avgol’s Uzlovaya site in Russia, a spunlaid nonwovens producer, satisfied audits related to traceability and the reasonable use of biomaterials.

Shachar Rachim, CEO, IVL Hygiene Division, part of IVL’s Fibers business segment, said: “This accreditation underscores our commitment to support our customers to achieve their carbon dioxide reduction targets through using carbon neutral fibers. The certification is assurance that our nonwoven fabrics and fibers meet all the ISCC’s demanding standards for recycled-renewable materials. Our certified facilities can trace the product’s composition through the supply chain, without needing to requalify the materials.”

IVL expects that the ISCC Plus certification of these two sites will be followed by similar certifications at other manufacturing plants. A broad portfolio of technologies is being developed to address how component materials interact with the environment to improve recyclability, reduce raw material consumption, and minimize the impact of fugitive wastes.

«Armalith^® is the story of my passions. Firstly textiles, which opened the doors to the great ready-to-wear and haute couture houses. Then motorcycling, an incredible vehicle for finding freedom and meeting people. In 2003, I combined these two passions by creating Armalith^® with one idea in mind: to offer the best possible protection to bikers without compromising on the comfort and authenticity of a real pair of jeans. Today, Armalith 2.0^® is the denim of choice for the most prestigious brands for their abrasion protection equipment.» Pierre-Henry Servajean, Armalith^® MK Support manager.

Armalith 2.0 in facts:

• The mechanical qualities of leather with the comfort of denim
• Extreme resistance to cuts, traction, tears and abrasion
• High UV resistance that preserves its mechanical properties
• One layer for resistance that is superior to any lined products

High technology for high security
The heart of the armour is made of UHMWPE (high molecular weight polyethylene). This high resistance fiber comes from aerospace research; it is used for space module re-entry ropes, military armour, mooring cables for offshore platforms and more. This core is then covered with a cotton fiber using an exclusive and patented process, and combined with LYCRA^® dualFX^® technology for a powerful and durable stretch.

High resistance for high protection
High-tech integrated into authentic denim for unique comfort and protection, Armalith 2.0^® meets the most demanding standards such as Darmstadt and Cambridge, which are more scientific than the CE certification.
Armalith 2.0^® is available in 3 grades - A, AA and AAA - to cover all needs from urban use to maximum protection against abrasion. In its EXO (KNIT) form, Armalith 2.0^® can be used as a lining to increase resistance in specific areas without using other uncomfortable solutions.

High comfort for high style
Safety in a single layer of fabric, comfort, softness, stretchability, and style! Armalith 2.0^® is a real denim. Soft, supple, comfortable, breathable and hydrophilic, it allows all the usual textures, dyes, prints and finishing in low temperatures.

Armalith 2.0^® is an ethical and responsible denim

• GRS cotton sourced from Greece.
• Designed in France, manufactured and produced on a single site - spinning, dyeing, indigo, weaving, finishing - at Tejidos Royo in Spain.
• UHMWPE fibre requires half the energy to produce than aramids.
• The UHMWPE fibre used under the ARMALITH 2.0^® patent is continuous (no energy-intensive cracking) and untextured (no energy-intensive texturing).
• All Armalith 2.0^® denim manufacturing processes are carried out at low temperatures: a world first for stretch fabrics.
• No heavy metals used in the pigments, the indigo is made using a slow, cold, waterless process
• Resistant to more than a thousand washes for greater longevity and without loss of elasticity.

The OEKO-TEX® Association has published its annual update of the applicable test criteria, limit values and guidelines for its certifications. All new regulations will finally come into force on 1 April 2022 after a transition period. In addition, the new Impact Calculator is now available for STeP by OEKO-TEX® customers. The tool, which was developed specifically for textile industry operations, provides data on the CO2 and water footprint necessary to achieve the climate targets.

In mid-2022, the association will introduce RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS by OEKO-TEX®, a new certification for brands and retailers committed to international agreements for human rights and environmental protection. OEKO-TEX® aims to support companies in fulfilling due diligence obligations within their own operations and their global supply chains. RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS by OEKO-TEX® was developed in accordance with the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights and the relevant OECD Guidelines on Responsible Business Conduct.

New and updated limited values
OEKO-TEX® has added bisphenol B (BPB) in the STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® certifications and to the STeP by OEKO-TEX® MRSL. The same applies to two additional colourants based on Michler’s ketone/base.

New substances under observation
In 2022, OEKO-TEX® will continue to monitor various substances based on the latest scientific findings and conformity with relevant specifications. This primarily concerns some process preservative agents and the bisphenols F, S and AF. The 2022 new regulations are available in detail for all OEKO-TEX® products on the website www.oeko-tex.com/news.

Sateri’s Lyocell facility in Rizhao, Shandong Province, has been awarded the Sustainable Textile Production (STeP) certification for responsible production, making it the first Lyocell producer in China to be certified to the rigorous standards set by independent Swiss-based certification organisation OEKO-TEX®. Sateri’s Lyocell facility has also obtained the highest ranking of level three in the certification assessment scoring for exemplary implementation of best manufacturing practices.

Together with its earlier achievement of the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification that confirms its Lyocell fibre is free from any harmful substances and complies with European standards, Sateri’s lyocell products are qualified to carry the MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® product label. This label not only attests to Sateri’s Lyocell fibre as safe and manufactured in environmentally-friendly, socially responsible and safe facility, but also the Group’s commitment to higher levels of transparency and accountability through the product traceability feature of the label.

The STeP by OEKO-TEX® certification comprises three levels describing the extent to which a company has achieved sustainable production and working conditions of factories in the textile industry. The areas of assessment include chemicals management, environmental performance, environmental management, social responsibility, quality management, as well as occupational health and safety.

Sateri’s Lyocell fiber factory in Rizhao commenced operation in May 2020, with an annual output of 20,000 tonnes of Lyocell fiber. The same site houses a 5,000 tonne Lyocell pilot production line dedicated for the development of Lyocell application technology. In March 2021, the Group announced plans to expand its Lyocell annual production capacity in China up to 500,000 tonnes by 2025.

A natural and biodegradable fibre, Sateri’s Lyocell is made from wood pulp sourced from certified and sustainable plantations. It is manufactured using closed-loop technology, requiring minimal chemical input during the production process, and utilising an organic solvent that can be almost fully (99.7%) recovered and recycled.

Sateri’s Lyocell is used to produce high quality textiles and personal hygiene materials. Using a unique high technology manufacturing process, it has outstanding dry and wet strength, high uniformity and consistency, and superior quality. It blends well with various textile fibres to create different fabric styles and characteristics for wide downstream applications.

Sappi has approved an investment in Kirkniemi Mill in Lohja, Finland which enables a switch in its energy sourcing to renewable bioenergy. With this investment the mill’s direct fossil greenhouse gas emissions will reduce by ca. 90 percent, which is equivalent to 230 000 tons of carbon dioxide annually.

The project, set for completion in early 2023, will contribute significantly to Sappi Europe’s decarbonisation roadmap by exiting coal at one of its last facilities partially using this fuel type. Biomass will then be used in Kirkniemi’s multi-fuel boiler, built in 2015. The move advances Sappi towards its 2025 targets which include reducing specific greenhouse gas emissions (scope 1 and 2) by 25 percent and increasing renewable energy share to 50 percent in Europe compared to 2019.

The investment will establish the equipment needed to receive, store and handle woody biomass like the bark, sawdust and wood chips used for biofuel production. Such biomass types are by-products from the forest-based industry and utilising them for energy production derives further value from the forest resource.

In addition to increasing share of renewable energy, Sappi’s mills are also focused on reducing energy consumption. Sappi Kirkniemi Mill is party to Finland’s National Energy Efficiency Agreement and consistently reaches their energy saving targets. Kirkniemi’s ISO 50001 certification provides further evidence of the mill’s systematic improvement in energy efficiency.