From the Sector

Carbios announced the appointment of Tommy Maussin as its Chief Marketing Officer, effective 2 September 2024.  His mission involves developing and overseeing CARBIOS’ global marketing and sales activities with brands across various industries, including packaging, textiles, luxury, automotive, cosmetics, healthcare, and industrial goods. Maussin will be responsible for enhancing Carbios’ global presence to initiate and conclude commercial agreements with brand owners. His proven track record of profitable businesses in a variety of industries, and in complex and international environments, is expected to play a pivotal role in shaping Carbios’ customer-centric marketing strategies moving forward.  Tommy Maussin joins the Executive Committee and reports to Emmanuel Ladent, Chief Executive Officer of CARBIOS.

With over 17 years of experience in international business for several Michelin tire divisions, Maussin spent the last four as European Director and Vice President of its lifestyle division, successfully transforming operations and driving substantial growth for Michelin Guides and Robert Parker Wine Advocate across various regions. His vision for Carbios centers on driving business growth through strategic execution, fostering multicultural teams, and maintaining a strong focus on customer relationships to drive business growth.

In the presence of CEO Eelco Spoelder, Autoneum opened its new production facility in Pune in Western India on August 28, 2024. The opening of the third plant in the key automotive market of India is in line with the Company’s strategic focus on future profitable growth with a particular emphasis on Asian growth markets. Series production of carpet systems, interior trim, wheelhouse outer liners, e-motor encapsulations and other noise protection components for local and international vehicle manufacturers has already begun.

The plant in Pune in the western Indian state of Maharashtra is wholly owned by Autoneum and complements the existing production facility in Behror near New Dehli in the north and the joint venture plant in Chennai in the south of India. During the inauguration ceremony in Pune, Autoneum CEO Eelco Spoelder said: “With the opening of our new plant, Autoneum gains access to the third of the four major automobile production centers in India. By expanding our presence in this strategically important region, we can further strengthen our position in Asia, the world’s largest automotive market.”

The building spans an area of 7 500 square meters and includes modern production equipment. The Pune plant will supply both local and international customers with noise-reducing lightweight components for the interior and exterior of vehicles of all drive types. Pune will be the first Autoneum plant in India with the capability to produce Hybrid-Acoustics PET felts for e-motor encapsulation. Components made of Hybrid-Acoustics PET are characterized by their lightweight construction and noise protection that are optimized for electric vehicles. They consist entirely of PET, which is largely obtained from recycled fibers, and thus meet customer demand for environmentally friendly mobility solutions.

As announced in March, Pune is one of two plants that Autoneum is opening this year in the important Asian growth markets of China and India. The new joint venture plant in Changchun in the northern Chinese province of Jilin will ramp up production of inner dashes, interior floor insulators and other NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) components for European, Japanese and Chinese car manufacturers from the end of 2024. Both new plants in Pune and Changchun are strategically located thanks to their proximity to important customers. In India, Autoneum supplies European, American, Indian, Japanese and Korean vehicle manufacturers.

Cascale, formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, has published a white paper that details how the organization’s Higg Brand & Retail Module (BRM) can help companies meet their regulatory reporting obligations under European Union (EU) law. The paper, titled “How the Higg BRM Supports CSRD Reporting Obligations,” speaks specifically to how the tool is continually evolving to support companies in meeting their regulatory reporting requirements under the EU’s Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD).

In the face of today’s challenging and ever-changing legislative landscape, brands and retailers require reliable tools to support them in meeting compliance requirements. The Higg BRM is the leading framework specific to the textile, apparel, and footwear industry designed for brands and retailers to evaluate, assess, and improve Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) performance. The tool assesses 11 critical impact areas along global value chains to foster a holistic approach to sustainability, and is available on Worldly, a sustainability data and insights platform.

The Higg BRM has evolved to assist brands and retailers in fulfilling reporting obligations, while also supporting companies in the development of consistent corporate sustainability strategies to streamline efforts and reduce redundancy across sustainability initiatives. Beginning in 2024, Cascale conducted a thorough analysis of the European Sustainability Reporting Standards (ESRS), which provides specific guidance on how companies should report on sustainability. Cascale mapped how the standards align with the Higg BRM, offering a clear pathway for organizations aiming to comply with ESRS. As detailed in the white paper, there is a 65 percent content overlap between the ESRS and the Higg BRM.

While the Higg BRM aligns broadly with ESRS on sustainability topics, it also delves deeper into issues that are specific to the textile, apparel, and footwear sector. This focus on sector-specific material issues ensures Higg BRM users can expect a comprehensive tool that not only meets general reporting requirements but also emphasizes the nuances and priorities unique to the industry.

Cascale is currently hosting an ongoing webinar series titled “Navigating Legislation & the Higg Index,” which highlights how the Higg Index tools serve as a valuable resource and can offer specific guidance on reporting requirements. The most recent webinar, co-hosted by Cascale and Worldly, provided an in-depth discussion on how the Higg BRM intersects with key pieces of legislation at the EU level, such as the CSRD.

Cascale is committed to continuously evolving, updating, and refining the Higg Index to meet the needs of its members, Higg Index users, and the industry. In collaboration with Worldly, the Higg BRM will be further refined to enhance alignment with the CSRD and other relevant regulations. By identifying and bridging gaps, the Higg BRM continues to support stakeholders in achieving a more structured and transparent approach to sustainability reporting.

Ontex Group NV announces the launch of enhanced youth pants this fall. The pants are designed to reduce the psychological impact of incontinence during adolescence, offering protection and discretion.

The new Ontex youth pants are tailored for children aged 3 to 15 who struggle with bladder control at night, despite staying dry during the day, or have some disability leading to loss of bladder control.

The pants are produced by Ontex plants using its growing HappyFit product platform and will be available through retailers and Ontex’s online sales channels in Europe, with room for expansion to other regions. The pants are constructed combining absorbent materials for heavy bedwetting protection, a chassis with soft and quiet materials for discretion that also offers an improved fit. The production will also have a significantly lower impact on the environment vs previous concepts. During the production, waste is also minimized.

Bedwetting is a common issue, affecting many children. Research^[1] shows that 15% of children still wet the bed in primary school, with boys significantly more likely to experience incontinence. Bedwetting mainly occurs at night and is the second most common chronic childhood condition after allergic disorders. Factors contributing to bedwetting include sleep arousal difficulties, nocturnal polyuria (excessive nighttime urine production), and bladder dysfunction.

[1] https://www.abct.org/fact-sheets/bed-wetting/

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited announces its role in the T-REX (Textile Recycling Excellence) Project. This initiative aims to establish a harmonized EU blueprint for the closed-loop sorting and recycling of household textile waste to help the fashion industry transition towards a more circular and sustainable future. By bringing together key stakeholders across the entire value chain, the project positions itself at the forefront of sustainable innovation.

The designated spinning partner, Indorama Ventures, will process the chemical recycled feedstock into polyester yarns and fibers through the extrusion process, ensuring the elimination of impurities. The company’s participation in the project also aligns with its goals of driving the circular economy and circular fashion industry through PET recycling and supply of recycled materials, underscoring its commitment to sustainability.

The T-REX Project launched with the aim of creating a harmonised blueprint which will support the creation of a circular system for post-consumer textile waste within Europe. The EU funded project brings together a consortium of 13 major players from across the entire value chain along with research institutes to transform end-of-use textiles from waste into valuable feedstock and a commodity for new business models that can be adopted at scale.

After a initial launch in 2022, global denim company Wrangler® launches the second installment of Wrangler Reborn™ – the latest collection to celebrate the upcycling of denim. The newest Wrangler Reborn™ sees the brand collaborate with BVH Services’ brand Beyond Retro, for the first time. BVH are one of the largest vintage retailers across Europe with a reputation for producing on-trend fashion without a hefty carbon footprint making them the perfect partner to give the collection a new dimension and even greater scale globally.

Purposefully crafted with circularity and sustainability in mind, the latest Wrangler Reborn™ Collection features a sustainable twist on some of its classic styles, including the Greensboro Straight Leg Jean, Reworked Short, Icon Jacket and Heritage Shirt that provide consumers with wardrobe staples they can wear for years to come while simultaneously diverting textile waste from landfills. To create the collection, Wrangler revived discarded denim and transformed it into apparel tough enough to stand the test of time that can be repurposed and re-loved, providing consumers the opportunity to buy better.

Wrangler’s commitment to durability and long-lasting quality products has helped to keep waste out of landfills since 1947. Wrangler Reborn™ enhances that commitment and is an additional step towards the brand’s WeCare Wrangler™ goals, crafted to create a better future through its commitment to sustainability.

With the MAX GLASS ECO, the KARL MAYER Technical Textiles Business Unit offers a production machine for the economical manufacture of standard reinforcement textiles made from glass fibers, in particular non-crimp fabrics for the wind power industry. The newcomer can be adapted to the requirements of different application areas thanks to various optional functions and combines short amortization times. At a maximum speed of 1,800 min-1, it produces up to 410 m/h at a working width of 101". This performance is very well received on the composite market. Since the launch of the MAX GLASS ECO at JEC World in March this year, several purchase agreements have already been signed.

Some machines are going to India, and a larger number has been ordered by Chinese customers. Even the demonstration models in the KARL MAYER GROUP customer centers in Changzhou and Chemnitz have already been sold. However, the MAX GLASS ECO at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien in Saxony can still be used for processing trials and performance tests until September.

There is also great interest in Eastern Europe. At Techtextil 2024 in Frankfurt, for example, the new composite machine was a topic of numerous meetings with Ralf Schramm, Sales Manager at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien for this region. "I held many orientation discussions about the machine's performance. But there were also customers with specific purchase requests, including the Polish manufacturer of high-quality, professional solutions for the composites industry, Rymatex," says the sales professional.

Today more than ever, sustainability in the fashion sector is an imperative that is reshaping the dynamics of the sector. These are important changes driven both by increasing CSR regulations (for example, Business of Fashion revealed that, according to 87% of players, the new regulations will impact their company in 2024), and by consumers’ habits (increasingly sensitive to the topic and consequently more careful in purchasing choices). In this scenario, Lectra analyzed real-time data from Retviews – its artificial intelligence-based solution specialized in competitive intelligence and automatic benchmarking – and unveils how Retviews’ empowers brands to navigate the complexities of sustainable and optimized collection planning.

According to Retviews data, to face sustainability challenges and best orient in the current complex fashion landscape, it will be crucial for brands to keep 5 key indications in mind:

1. Planning sustainable collections
Faced with the new regulations, brands are called to rethink their strategies, without losing sight on performance. For this reason, brands are already moving to optimize and rationalize the creative processes of their collections with a view to sustainability. In particular, Retviews' real-time data analysis reveals a growing trend towards sustainability in the collections of leading brands, where there are important investments in sustainable fabrics for both upper and lower garments. In particular, in the "Top" section, shirts show the most significant growth year over year among the eco-responsible options.

2. Sustainable prices (in every sense)
In this context, the redefinition of prices requires a strategic balance between market dynamics and the consumer's willingness to pay for products redesigned in terms of CSR. Retviews data shows a significant increase in costs in sustainable top collections. However, has this shift affected stock levels?

3. Inventories: optimized management
Tracking stock levels is crucial to season management, as it helps identify best-selling items and trends, as well as identify which items would sell better at full price versus those that should be discounted.
The new premium prices for sustainable collections require optimization of the sales rate, a waste limitation to minimum and a reduction of unsold goods rate.
Analyzing the tops category - In the tops category, where sustainably made products prevail with significantly higher price points than generic tops, Retviews' real-time data reveals that sustainable collections boast a higher sell-out rate compared to non-sustainable products. This superior sell-out rate underscores consumers' willingness to pay a premium for sustainability

4. Traceability and certification of collections
Certification is essential in verifying sustainability claims, fosters trust and ensures compliance. Not only that, it is also important to understand the value of the certifications and which ones appear most frequently in the various markets so as to make targeted decisions and adapt the assortments accordingly. This also let brands to prioritize the right mix of fabrics that can reflect the desires of local consumers. Retviews data highlights a particular focus on “Recycled Claim Standard” (RCS) certification in Europe and on “Fair Trade” and “Good Cashmere Standard” certified garments in the United States.

5. Mix of sustainable fabrics
About environmental impact, fabrics also play a fundamental role. Through data-driven tools, brands are able to find valuable information on sustainable materials that are gaining tractions in collections and thus make informed and strategic decisions in the process of planning their creations.

A navy blue nylon dress, providing elegance and comfort to the wearer while simultaneously highlighting the entire Made in Italy production chain: this is the new project RadiciGroup is presenting at Milano Unica, from July 9th to 11th at the Innovation Forum promoted by the TexClubTec section of Sistema Moda Italia.

The dress is the result of a traceability project led by RadiciGroup, involving different players in the textile sector: from the yarn producer to the fabric manufacturer to the final consumer.

A "tracer" has been inserted into the yarn, which is detectable through a scanner and allows to map the entire garment creation process - both physically and digitally - from the origin of the fibre to the item end of life. Through a QR code printed on the label, all the "stages" defining the outfit's journey can be seen, including the production of the fabric made by another company from Bergamo, Sitip. In this way, the final consumers can learn more about the production sites of what they wear, making more conscious purchasing choices.

At the booth of another Italian textile company, Tessitura Vignetta, visitors will be able to touch several types of fabric made with the "traced" nylon produced by RadiciGroup.

This is another example of how important it is to work transparently and collaboratively in the textile supply chain. Through the traceability of textile products, the goal is to fight counterfeiting and enhance products made in Europe, in line with the principles of the Digital Product Passport under development at the European Union.

At PRSE in Amsterdam, the DischargePro control system from EREMA's POWERFIL business unit was presented with the Plastics Recycling Award Europe in the "Recycling Machinery Innovation of the Year" category. The smart technology for the EREMA laser filter improves process stability over the entire operating period and reacts automatically to fluctuations during the recycling process.

The DischargePro system automatically compensates for fluctuations in the input material, thereby ensuring uniform thickening during melt filtration and thus a consistent process. Depending on the application and contamination, POWERFIL was able to reduce melt loss by up to 50 percent with the DischargePro compared to the previous EREMA laser filter control system. These facts convinced the jury, who described the technology as an intelligent technological advance in the extrusion process.

With the DischargePro control system, POWERFIL significantly increases the degree of automation in the filter process. The discharge control system reacts to specific disruptions in the process. In this way, the speed of the scraper star is adjusted at short notice and returns to the setpoint speed as soon as the contamination peak has been discharged. Furthermore, the control system also recognizes changes in throughput and adjusts the discharge rates accordingly. In the event of a higher pressure drop across the filter screen, which is caused by a higher viscosity of the melt, DischargePro adjusts the setpoint value to ensure a consistent discharge rate. Long-term changes, such as the condition of the filter screen, are also taken into account in all adjustments.