From the Sector

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd, UK has completed the installation and commissioning of a new FET Laboratory Spunbond system for the University of Leeds.

This FET spunbond system is now an integral part of the research facilities of the CCTMIH (Clothworkers’ Centre for Textile Materials Innovation for Healthcare), led by Prof. Stephen Russell based in the School of Design, University of Leeds, who commented “The new spunbond system is perfectly suited to our academic research work, and is already proving itself to be extremely versatile and intuitive to use”.
 
This spunbond system complements existing research lab facilities at the university, which covers all areas of fibre and fabric processing, physical testing and characterisation. It forms part of a wider investment in facilities to support fundamental, academic research on ‘future manufacturing’ for medical devices, where the focus is on studying small-scale processing of unconventional polymers and additive mixes to form spunbond fabrics with multifunctional properties.
 
Key to this research is developing the underlying process-structure-performance relationships, based on the measured data, to provide detailed understanding of how final fabric performance can be controlled during processing.

As a rule, many exciting materials developed in academic research struggle to progress beyond the bench, because of compatibility issues with key manufacturing processes such as spunbond. By leveraging mono, core-sheath and island-in-the-sea bicomponent technology, the Leeds University team is working with polymer and biomaterial research scientists, engineers and clinicians to explore the incorporation of unusual materials in spunbond fabrics, potentially widening applications.
 
FET has built on its melt spinning expertise to develop a true laboratory scale spunbond system and is currently working on a number of other such projects globally with research institutions and manufacturers.

Hexcel, a global leader in advanced composites technologies, announces the successful maiden flight of a lightweight camera drone, developed using Hexcel HexPly® carbon fiber prepregs. The composite drone was developed by a team of students from the University of Applied Sciences Upper Austria in Wels with composite materials supplied by Hexcel Neumarkt in Austria.

A team of six students in the university’s lightweight construction and composite materials course was responsible for the complete design, engineering, and manufacture of the camera drone over a period of 18 months. Hexcel materials and optimization of the composite engineering enabled the team to reduce the composite structural mass by an impressive 42% compared to similar drones.

Hexcel Neumarkt was one of eight industrial partners supporting the university team throughout the project, providing all carbon fiber prepreg materials used for the drone’s landing gear as well as the fuselage. The ultra-lightweight 32g landing gear was laid up and cured in the press, whereas the fuselage was autoclave cured by the student team using Hexcel HexPly M901 and HexPly M78.1 prepreg resin systems with a combination of woven and unidirectional carbon fiber reinforcements.

With the development of Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAV) as a key emerging market and innovation space in the transportation sector, Hexcel’s collaboration with the University of Applied Sciences Upper Austria team not only creates an important link with the next generation of lightweight composite engineers but also highlights the weight saving and structural benefits of Hexcel composite material solutions.

"The massive weight saving achieved with their updated version of the camera drone is a fantastic achievement by the student team," said Michael Rabl, Dean of FH Wels of the Upper Austria University of Applied Sciences. "The joint study not only illustrates the wide range of complex and innovative composite techniques present in the drone sector but also presents the opportunities that exist for further development in the wider Urban Air Mobility (UAM) and aerospace composites markets.”

Hexcel congratulates the project team which includes Lukas Weninger, Karl-Heinz Schneider, Jakob Schlosser, Matthias Thon, Marla Unter, and Simone Hartl on an exceptional piece of lightweight composite design and thanks them for showcasing the contribution of Hexcel materials with a presentation and drone flight. Johanna Arndt, research and technology group leader at Hexcel Neumarkt, said, “It was a great pleasure to work with the team who were very cooperative and self-motivated to succeed. Watching the drone just fly around the Neumarkt plant was just great.”

Hexcel manufactures a complete range of carbon fibers, dry carbon UD tapes, specialty reinforcements, prepregs, and honeycomb core materials, providing customized manufacturing options for new UAM applications that combine aerospace reliability with the high-rate production required. Hexcel composite materials are the ideal solution for the lightest and most efficient cost-competitive transportation vehicles of the future.

FibreCoat GmbH from Aachen, Germany, together with DBF Deutsche Basalt GmbH, developed a completely new type of fibre material to shield electromagnetic radiation from digital end devices, medical technology or e-car batteries cheaply and effectively. The joint project was awarded the overall prize of the“ IQ Innovationspreises Mitteldeutschland“ on 24 June in an online event broadcast live from Leipzig.

The prize is endowed with €15,000 and was sponsored by the Halle-Dessau, Leipzig and East Thuringia Chambers of Industry and Commerce.

Electromagnetic radiation from smartphones, hospital diagnostics and electric car batteries must be shielded so that they do not inter-fere with each other. To prevent mutual interference, they have so far been covered with metal fibre fabrics, a very time- and energy-consuming and thus expensive procedure. The new material from Basalt Faser GmbH and FibreCoat GmbH prevents this with a fibre core made of melted, thinly drawn basalt, which is coated with aluminium and bundled into the so-called AluCoat yarn. This yarn remains just as conductive and shielding, but is lighter, stronger, cheaper and more sustainable than previous alternatives. In addition, there are further advantages:

• The number of process steps required is reduced from ten to one.
• 1,500 metres of yarn are produced per minute instead of the previous five metres.
• The energy required is only 10 per cent of the previous amount.

The result is a price that is twenty times lower.

The textile made of AluCoat fibres is versatile and flexible: as wallpaper it can shield 5G radiation in offices or medical rooms or encase batteries and thus ensure the smooth functioning of electric cars. AluCoat is already being used in some companies. A European fibre centre in Sangerhausen is being planned for mass production.

The two innovative companies DBF Deutsche Basalt GmbH and FibreCoat GmbH from East and West combine the two materials basalt and aluminium to protect against electromagnetic radiation. In doing so, they coat basalt with aluminium and, through this novel combination, create an inexpensive, sustainable and quickly produced alter-native for a market worth billions.

FibreCoat GmbH from Aachen is a spin-off of the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University; the managing directors Dr Robert Brüll and Alexander Lüking and Richard Haas have completed their doctorates at the ITA or are in the process of preparing their doctorates. Georgi Gogoladze, Managing Director of Deutsche Basaltfaser GmbH, also studied at RWTH Aachen University. The two managing directors Brüll and Gogoladze know each other from their student days.

• Neuer Abteilungsleiter Commercial & Industrial Printing

Achim Bukmakowski (58) ist ab sofort bei Epson in Europa neuer Head of Commercial & Industrial Printing (C&I) in der Region DACH. Er berichtet in seiner neuen Position an Duncan Ferguson, Vice President Commercial & Industrial Printing bei Epson, und folgt Frank Schenk nach, der das Unternehmen auf eigenen Wunsch verlassen hat.

Bukmakowski startete seine Karriere bei Epson im Jahre 2000 als Corporate Account Manager und betreute zuletzt als Regional Sales Manager Commercial & Industrial Printing CEE Kunden des Herstellers, die er behält, denn er übernimmt die neue Position zusätzlich zu seiner bisherigen. Wie schon dort ist es auch hier seine primäre Aufgabe, die guten Beziehungen zu den Epson Kunden weiter zu stärken und auszubauen, um die kommenden und bestehenden professionellen Drucklösungen des Herstellers erfolgreich in diesen Märkten zu positionieren.

Bremen-based Statex Produktions- und Vertriebs GmbH, a company founded in 1978 and currently in its 3rd generation of family management, is reinventing itself. One of the leading manufacturers in the field of silvered and metallised textiles has focused on the field of technical textiles and will in future place its brand name Shiledex at the centre of its corporate identity.

In accordance with the principle "Metallised Textiles for Challenges that matter", the new website is to transport the company's know-how in the areas of technical textiles, automotive, intelligence and military, medicine as well as fashion and design with a clear structure.

The sorting of the different application areas such as sensor technology, heating and lighting, EMC shielding, wellness and lifestyle as well as health and hygiene simplifies the access to the Shieldex product worlds.

• Global online fashion retailer and UK supplier - Asos and Fashion-Enter Ltd. - teaming with Kornit for adoption of efficient, low-impact direct-to-fabric digital textile printing with zero water waste and accelerated production speeds

Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, announced that global online fashion retailer ASOS and its supplier Fashion-Enter Ltd. are implementing Kornit Presto to explore the future opportunities presented by on-demand manufacturing.

Kornit Presto is the most advanced single-step solution for direct-to-fabric printing, enabling Fashion-Enter Ltd. to rapidly deliver test-and-repeat small product runs on behalf of ASOS. These production capabilities will enable ASOS and Fashion-Enter Ltd. to imprint designs on multiple fabrics at the push of a button, through a lower-impact production process that has zero water waste and accelerates production speeds by cutting out typical dyeing processes.

In Kornit’s pigment-based digital textile production capabilities and efficient workflow solutions, Fashion-Enter Ltd. sees an answer for brands serving the needs of today’s consumers, while reducing inventory waste and improving supply chain management and garment quality.

Ein neues „Lieblingsstück“ der renommierten Maßschneider-Marke cove ist die aktuelle „Maßfibel“ mit fast 150 Seiten Stilwissen über die hohe Kunst der Maßschneiderei. Als Herausgeber eines Buches betreten die Maßschneider von cove ein neues Terrain und haben sich prominente Unterstützung gesucht: In Zusammenarbeit mit dem Stilpapst und Autor Bernhard Roetzel haben die Maßpioniere und Unternehmensgründer Dr. Christian Tietz und Ulrich Hesse ihr Projekt einer Maßfibel jetzt realisiert. Es ist eine bilderreiche Hommage an das traditionelle Schneiderhandwerk. „Wir wollten in kompakter Form die Kunst unserer Maßschneider in einem stilvollen Buch ausführlich und wissensreich präsentieren – als Wertschätzung für dieses nachhaltige Handwerk,“ so Ulrich Hesse. Schöne Produkte zu fertigen, die der Kunde seine Lieblingsstücke nennt, ist das Ziel von cove, die Maßschneider aus Düsseldorf.

Das Buch beschreibt u.a. das persönliche Gespräch mit den Maßschneidern, denn es ist der Beginn des Weges zum perfekten Maßanzug. Beim anschließenden Vermessen des Kunden wird der Anzug weiter detailliert besprochen und ganz besonderer Wert auf die Körperhaltung gelegt. Die Erkenntnisse aus dem Gespräch und dem Vermessen bilden die Grundlage der Schnitterstellung.

Ein länderübergreifender Stilexkurs: Das cove Coffeetable Book arbeitet internationale Stil-Höhen sowie Unterschiede unterhaltsam und lehrreich heraus. Darunter der englische Stil, wie ihn die Schneider der Savile Row im Londoner Stadtteil Mayfair pflegen. Schweres englisches Tuch, verstärkt und aus der Uniform abgeleitet, das dem echten Gentleman Haltung verleiht. Ein weiterer Stil ist italienisch geprägt: leichte Anzüge, die durch eine softe Verarbeitung überzeugen. Ein Anzug, bei dem Mann das Sakko den ganzen Tag nicht ausziehen möchte. Der deutsche Traditionalist, so Roetzel, bevorzugt eher den englischen Stil und der Connaisseur tendenziell die italienische Variante.

In pandemic year 2020 circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. (MCT) has further improved its leading position in Turkey. So the country continues to be one of the company’s strongest and most consistent sales markets. Even in difficult years, the manufacturer and its longstanding Turkish representative Mayer Mümessillik have achieved positive results. The reasons for this year’s success, as Mayer & Cie. sees it, are the transfer of production to locations close to Europe, Turkey’s state-of-theart machinery and the increase in demand for comfortable clothing that is suitable as home office wear.

Turkish market is a growth market despite corona setback
“Compared to 2019, we anticipate a growth in the Turkish market even though the corona situation was a serious setback in the second quarter of 2020,” says Stefan Bühler, Mayer & Cie.’s regional sales manager for Turkey.

Mayer & Cie. got off to a strong start on the Bosporus in the first quarter of 2020 with additional positive effects until mid-March. This was due to a desire for production locations close to Europe. In the second quarter, during the lockdown, demand largely ground to a halt. Government measures helped to cushion the downturn. Says Ahmet M. Öğretmen, general manager of MCT’s Turkish sales partner Mayer Mümessillik: “In the second quarter, GDP was down by about 10 percent, so we got off lightly.”

Since July 2020, orders for Mayer & Cie. circular knitting machines have bounced back again. Ahmet M. Öğretmen sees an interplay of reasons for this recovery. The main reason, he says, is the low exchange rate of the Turkish lira, which has boosted exports of ready-made textiles. The Turkish daily Hürriyet reports, with reference to the Turkish state news agency, 11 percent year-on-year growth in August 2020. The most important export markets, the newspaper says, are Germany, the UK and Spain. Between them, they account for around half of exports totalling € 1.27 billion.* “This demand must be fulfilled,” Öğretmen says. “That leads to investment in machinery by manufacturers.”

Relanit is synonymous with single jersey
The machines of choice for Turkish knitwear manufacturers are regularly Mayer & Cie. machines. The long-established German firm’s share of the Turkish market is substantially higher than in other markets. The manufacturer’s position is particularly strong in the market for plain single jersey fabrics, with the Relanit 3.2 HS being the machine of choice. It achieves an extraordinarily high level of productivity, especially in processing elastomer yarns. It also handles a wide range of yarns reliably.

“Interlock is Mayer & Cie.”
Mayer & Cie. is one of the leader in the second major circular knitting discipline, rib and interlock fabrics. The machines used for double jersey fabrics are the OV 3.2 QCe, the D4 2.2 II and the D4 3.2 II. The OV 3.2 QCe knits interlock, 8-lock structures, spacers and fine gauge with 3.2 systems. The D4 2.2 II is another stalwart for rib, 8-lock and interlock. The 8-lock D4 3.2 II is the machine of choice for firms that want to manufacture structures such as Piqué, Punto di Roma or Thermal in addition to interlock.

The MBF 3.2 is another top seller in Turkey. A three-thread fleece machine, it knits fabrics for sportsand leisurewear such as hoodies and is very much in keeping with the trend in home office year 2020. “Comfortable clothing is circular knitted,” says Ahmet M. Öğretmen, “and we benefit from that of course.”

One of the world’s most state-of-the-art machine parks are in Turkey
Another advantage is the modernity of the Turkish machine park, which is doubly attractive in view of Turkey’s weak currency. Says Mayer Mümessillik general manager Öğretmen: “In the past 10 to 20 years there has been very heavy investment in high-quality machines. As a consequence we have the world’s youngest and most up-to-date production facilities.” Combined with geographical proximity to the main export markets in Europe that should prove a growth driver in the years ahead – and keep demand for Mayer & Cie. machines brisk and high.

*More informationen here.

Eleven leading companies from six countries founded the Renewable Carbon Initiative (RCI) in September 2020 under the leadership of nova-Institute (Germany). The aim of the initiative is to support and speed up the transition from fossil carbon to renewable carbon for all organic chemicals and materials.

Besides Lenzing, these ten companies are founding members of the RCI, which also form the Core Advisory Board: Beiersdorf (Germany), Cosun Beet Company (The Netherlands), Covestro (Germany), Henkel (Germany), LanzaTech (USA), NESTE (Finland), SHV Energy (The Netherlands), Stahl (The Netherlands), Unilever (UK) and UPM (Finland).

The Renewable Carbon Initiative (RCI) addresses the core problem of climate change, which is extracting and using additional fossil carbon from the ground. The vision is stated clearly: By 2050, fossil carbon shall be completely substituted by renewable carbon, which is carbon from alternative sources: biomass, direct CO2 utilisation and recycling. The founders are convinced that this is the only way for chemicals, plastics and other organic materials to become sustainable, climate-friendly and part of the circular economy – part of the future.

Robert van de Kerkhof, Chief Commercial Officer of the Lenzing Group: „We at Lenzing believe that we need to create strategic partnerships to implement systemic change. Therefore, we support the Renewable Carbon Initiative. First of all, because it is the right thing to do and, second, it is also fully aligned with our corporate strategy. Therefore, we are part of the RCI from the beginning and its commitment to start acting now.”

Michael Carus, CEO of nova-Institute and head of the Renewable Carbon Initiative: “This is about a fundamental change in the chemical industry. Just as the energy industry is being converted to renewable energies, so renewable carbon will become the new foundation of the future chemical and material industry. The initiative starts today and will be visibly present from now on. We want to accelerate the change.”

The main avenues on which the initiative wants to deliver change are threefold. One, the initiative strives to create cross-industry platforms that will demonstrate feasibility of renewable carbon in tangible activities. Two, one main target will be to advocate for legislation, taxation and regulation changes to give renewable carbon a level commercial playing field to play on. Finally, the third avenue will be to create a wider pull for sustainable options by raising awareness and understanding of renewable carbon level amongst the business community and the wider public.

The Renewable Carbon Initiative has made a powerful start with eleven international member companies and the personal support of more than 100 industry experts. The initiative hopes to gain many additional members and supporters in the upcoming months to keep the strong momentum of the initiative. Working together, RCI will support and accelerate the transition from fossil to renewable carbon for all organic chemicals and materials.

In the end, the aim is as complex as it is simple: renewable energy and renewable carbon for a sustainable future. Within the RCI Lenzing will especially focus on further greening up the textile and nonwoven businesses. Here we will promote this concept and encourage our partners to become a part of this vision.

More information about the Renewable Carbon Initiative can be found on www.renewable-carbon-initiative.com.

Rester Oy, which is developing the plant in Paimio, recycles companies' end-of-life textiles, and Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto Oy (LSJH), which will hire a production area at the same facility, processes households' end-of-life textiles. The plant will process 12,000 tonnes of end-of-life textiles every year, which represents about 10% of Finland’s textile waste.

The textile industry’s end-of-life textile problem is intolerable. Natural resources are increasingly used to manufacture products, but these materials are lost at the end of their life cycle. About 100 million kilograms of textile waste are generated annually in Finland alone. Reusing this material could reduce the textile industry’s carbon footprint and significantly reduce the use of natural resources.

Rester Oy and LSJH will drive the textile sector towards a circular economy and begin processing textile waste as an industrial raw material. The Nordic countries’ first industrial end-of-textile refinement plant will open in Paimio in 2021. The 3,000-square-metre plant is being developed by Rester Oy, which recycles companies' end-of-life textiles and industrial waste materials. LSJH, which processes households’ end-of-life textiles on its production line, will hire part of the plant.

Outi Luukko, Rester Oy’s board chair, says, “The processing plant will begin a new era of textile circular economy in Finland. As industry pioneers, we are launching a system change in Scandinavia. The transition of the textile industry from a linear model to a circular economy is essential, as virgin materials cannot sustain the current structure of the textile industry. And why should it, when there is so much recyclable material available?”

From the perspective of Rester Oy’s main owner, work clothing supplier Touchpoint, the circular economy plant not only represents resource efficiency, but is also necessary from the perspective of the entire life cycle of a responsible work clothing collection.

Luukko adds, “Finding a local solution to a global problem is a huge leap in the right direction and raises Finland's profile as a pioneer of circular economy."

The future plant will be able to process 12,000 tonnes of end-of-life textiles annually, which represents about 10% of Finland’s textile waste. Both production lines produce recycled fibre, which can be used for various industrial applications, including yarn and fabric, insulating materials for construction and shipping industries, acoustic panels, composites, non-woven and filter materials, and other technical textiles, such as geo-textiles.

LSJH is piloting a full-scale refinement plant

LSJH has launched a pilot production line for processing households' end-of-life textiles. Unfortunately, consumers' end-of-life textiles are heterogeneous, making them a challenging raw material for further processing. Before processing, the textiles are sorted by material into various fibre classes using optical identification technology developed by LSJH and its partners. This ensures the quality of the raw material and the resulting fibre products.

Jukka Heikkilä, managing director for Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto, explains: “On the basis of the experiences gathered from the pilot project, Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto is preparing a full-scale refinement plant in the Turku region. As soon as 2023, the plant will process Finnish households' end-of-life textiles. The project involves all waste treatment plants owned by Finnish municipalities.”

Paimio has ambitious goals for circular economy companies

Rester’s initiative aims to create a circular economy cluster in Paimio that combines the processing and reuse of end-of-life textile fibres. Paimion Kehitys Oy, which is owned by the City of Paimio and the local association of enterprises, supports the development of circular economy companies in Paimio.

Mika Ingi, managing director for Paimion Kehitys Oy, says, “We want to step out of our traditional municipal role and create significant added value for everyone taking part. That is why we are involved in the development of a new modern service model based on ecosystem thinking. We are piloting the textile cluster, followed in the coming years by clusters focusing on plastic, construction, and energy. The aim of our service is to support and help develop new profitable business by bringing circular economy companies and their potential customers to innovate together."

The foundation stone of the processing plant was laid today (18 August 2020). The processing plant will begin operations in February 2021.