From the Sector

C.L.A.S.S. will join forces with Milano Unica, 12-14 July, to push the change towards a new generation of fashion through its C.L.A.S.S. SMART SHOP: an online space offering eco-high-tech materials representing a range of categories able to create a new generation of fashion. It is dedicated to students, designers and new generation brands who want to explore and test premium materials mixing style, innovation and responsibility

The C.L.A.S.S. SMART SHOP partners exhibiting at Milano Unica are: ALBINI GROUP, ILUNA GROUP and ZIGNONE.

C&S strengthens its position in the luxury segment with the acquisition of Texo S.R.L., a company based in Cagli (Pesaro and Urbino) with 10 years of experience in the production of fashion apparel for Texo and for third parties.

C&S enriches the offer of its Style Services Luxe division, the research and production solution for any kind of style needs, together with Style Services Denim and along with C&S Experience projects, initiatives in direct contact with retail such as the haikure brand and the license agreements for Europe for Jeckerson and Purple. C&S’s history begins over 40 years ago in Trestina, in the Perugia province, and is rooted in denim culture and in the limitless potential that comes with this fabric. The company has begun to establish itself as a partner for the creation of jackets, shirts, outerwear, and denim. Its know-how expresses the combination of the production souls that characterize its territory of origin, between Umbria and Marche: all the typical tradition of premium denim mixed with the culture of luxury apparel, intimately dedicated to beauty, quality, and attention to detail.

“We are proud to have achieved this new milestone” states Federico Corneli, C&S’s main shareholder. “We firmly believe that the added value that Texo S.R.L.’s specialization brings to the table will allow us to grow further and to be able to accelerate the strategic path that will lead us to establish ourselves as special partner for the most important luxury brands”.

TEXAID with its Spanish subsidiary PERCENTIL enable Springfield to put its commitment to sustainability into action through implementing a circularity pilot project with the aim of giving a second life to second-hand garments. As part of the Tendam Group, who operates more than 2000 stores in 79 countries, Springfield partners with the TEXAID group, leading in the industry of collecting, sorting, reselling and recycling used garments, to launch the R[ECO]LLECT initiative.

Take-Back Program R[ECO]LLECT
With "the future is circular" as their call to action, the project is called R[ECO]LLECT and refers directly to the collection of all second-hand garments in good condition, to meet three clear sustainability objectives of Springfield: reduce the pressure on natural resources, reduce CO2 emissions and reduce the amount of textile waste.

R[ECO]LLECT was launched in May 2022 as a pilot project in 16 Springfield stores in Spain across different cities and provinces.

TEXAID’s Spanish subsidiary PERCENTIL is a strategic partner of Springfield in this step towards sustainability. The motto of PERCENTIL is that "there is nothing more sustainable than what you already have in your closet", and it is an intermediary between people who want to get rid of clothes and those who are looking to buy almost new clothes from brands recognized for their design and quality, but at a much lower price. In this way, textile overproduction is reduced, and the environmental impact is reduced. In addition, PERCENTIL receives the clothes, sorts them and takes care of giving them a second life.

Albini Group, historic manufacturer of high-end shirting fabrics, meets C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub, international platform for the promotion and development of innovative and sustainable textiles. Two groundbreaking companies joining forces in the name of ethical and technological development through the C.L.A.S.S. Material Hub, the section dedicated to fibers, threads, yarns and fabrics that are changing the fashion and textile industry.  The values in which Albini Group believes and the strong sensitivity to environmental issues have led the company to also address the issue of the risk of toxic and harmful chemicals in a systemic way, integrating into the production cycles activities and controls aimed at gradually eliminating their presence, with the clear objective of protecting man and the environment.

Three main research areas - innovative fibers and yarns, sustainable dyes and green chemistry - united by the task of transferring cutting-edge technologies through open innovation. Among the new projects presented is "Off the Grain," born from the collaboration with Riso Gallo, a leading rice producer in Italy. It is a new type of dye derived from the processing of a particular variety of black rice: the boiling water of the rice, which can no longer be used for the food industry, is transformed into a natural dye, resulting in significant water savings during the dyeing process.

"Grounded Indigo" is a natural textile dyestuff, born from the search for dyeing practices that are more responsible to people and the environment. For this project, ALBINI_next chose to collaborate with Stony Creek Colors, an American producer of the world's only 100% plant-based indigo that is USDA BioPreferred certified.

The third project, called "HempFeel," is an innovative hemp oil-based finishing, tipically used for cosmetic products. ALBINI_next was the first company to apply it to fabrics of different weights, compositions and structures. HempFeel replaces silicones usually used in finishing, thus reducing the release of microplastics and giving fabrics a soft and durable hand.

"When discussing values related to creativity, next-generation production and commitment to ethics and traceability, Albini is an extremely important point of reference." says Giusy Bettoni, founder and CEO of C.L.A.S.S. "This is why we are delighted with its inclusion within our Material Hub, alongside its colleagues of the responsible innovation movement. Follow us on this new common path. Next- generation solutions and nice surprises will not be missed."

Denim Première Vision marks the denim ingredient brand’s return to the tradeshow scene. Under the spotlight is “Iconic by nature”, ISKO’s show concept illustrates the company’s journey of evolution led by its signature Responsible Innovation™ approach. On this occasion, ISKO launches its 2023 Collection Vol.2 with new technologies, finishes and colors, and expressing the company’s passion for a cleaner and safer planet, laying the new foundations of ISKO’s sustainable fashion revolution.

The entire 2023 Collection Vol.2 contains recycled materials, and the majority consists of R-TWO™50+ fabrics made with a minimum of 50% recycled fibers, entirely GRS certified, resulting in less use of natural resources and a reduced carbon and water footprint of up to 45% and 65% respectively. An important and responsible development of this collection is that it features denim containing recycled and/or regenerated fibers, through unique fiber technology significantly saving on resources and energy while allowing for controlled traceability along the supply chain.

The new collection features comfortable ISKO Reform™ Xp 100, allowing for a flattering fit and enhanced shape retention; ISKO Reform™ Hp, characterized by incredible holding power, granting a more streamlined and slimmer appearance; ISKO Blue Skin™, a stretch technology that works 4-ways to respond to the body’s movement like a second skin; ISKO Pop™, a patented concept that starts from the yarn, developed to give a touch of glamour with a soft cotton hand feel. Colors are key in the new collection too, with an important aspect regarding the use of mineral colors, natural dyestuffs.

The opening of this facility marks the expansion of ISKO’s Creative Room Services (CRS) division and its dedication to the continuation of responsible production.

ISKO has opened its first product development centre, based in London. Creative Room London is a unique and innovative space and the first of its kind in the UK. It is the latest initiative of Creative Room Services (CRS), a division of ISKO devoted to offering streamlined and simplified solutions for all denim requirements – from fabric to finished garment.

With a focus on sustainable washing and finishing techniques, customers at Creative Room London will be able to work in parallel with experts to achieve their desired denim looks. Together with machine technology partner Jeanologia, they have been able to develop innovative washing and finishing techniques that meet the highest quality and sustainability standards with a significantly lower environmental impact.

The Creative Room London will also be the central point for their customer’s full product development, ensuring the whole process is agile and more efficient. As well as a hub for its customers, Creative Room London will also act as a platform of education and support for the wider denim community, working with local talent and universities to share knowledge and to bring ideas and concepts to life.

• ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei for its responsible RF (Residual Free) line

Innova Fabrics, the Italian manufacturer of knitted fabrics for apparel, underwear and sports, confirms its choice of ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, the Japanese leader of premium stretch fiber, for its new responsible line RF (Residual Free).

Despite the deep-rooted history of the company's team in the world of textiles, Innova Fabrics is a reality that is not afraid to innovate with a focus on environmental sustainability. As a result of its push for local production and attention to third-party sustainability certifications (including OEKO-TEX Standard 100, one of the world's best-known labels for textiles tested for harmful substances), Innova Fabrics continues its promise of responsibility with an enrichment of its conscious proposals. In the last season, Innova has increased its smart proposition by launching the RF (Residual Free) line, with the aim of reducing the impact of microplastics residues produced by the fashion industry. This is possible thanks to the combination of two responsible ingredients: SENSIL® Biocare by Nilit and ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei.

SENSIL® BioCare is the premium, sustainable nylon 6.6 fiber enriched with a special technology that helps reduce the persistence of textile waste in the ocean and landfills by acting during and after the product's life cycle. Therefore, if the microplastics in SENSIL® BioCare garments are released during washing, they will decompose much faster than conventional Nylon 6.6 fibers, reducing textile waste. ROICA™ V550, part of the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, is the premium, sustainable stretch yarn that degrades without releasing harmful substances into the environment, according to the Hohenstein's environmental certification. ROICA™ V550 also carries the Gold Level Material Health certificate from the Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute, which evaluated the yarn's impact on human and environmental health. The strong relationship established between Innova Fabrics and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei is a long-standing one: from the very beginning, the textile company chose ROICA™ as its main reference for premium stretch, using ROICA Colour Perfect™ in most of its articles. Having experienced the innovation of the ROICA™ line dedicated to high-quality color, Innova decided to opt for the ROICA Eco-Smart™ line as part of the extension of its environmentally conscious line.

Thanks to the constant synergy with its premium partner in innovative and responsible stretch, Innova continues its path towards a textile and fashion industry that respects the planet, without forgetting profit. And this is just the beginning. Innova Fabrics pieces containing SENSIL® BioCare and ROICA™ V550

Stratasys Ltd., ein Anbieter von Polymer-3D-Drucklösungen, stellte am 02. Mai 2022 einen 3D-Drucker vor, der speziell entwickelt wurde, um direkt auf Textilien zu drucken. Der 3D-Drucker J850™ TechStyle™ von Stratasys ist der neueste PolyJet™-Drucker des Unternehmens und soll den besonderen Anforderungen von Design- und Modeherstellern gerecht werden. Hierzu zählen etwa 3D-Druck für Textilwaren, Kleidung, Taschen, Accessoires und Schuhe aus dem hochwertigen Premiumbereich.

Laut der Modespezialistin und Trendforscherin Lidewij Edelkoort besteht schon seit langem Interesse an einem 3D-Drucker für Stoffe und Kleidungsstücke mit unzähligen kreativen Anwendungsmöglichkeiten für Modedesigner. Sie geht davon aus, dass die Branche begeistert sein wird und sagt: „Millionen von Gebeten des dekorativen Kunst- und Kreativhandwerks wurden erhört: Dieses hybride Gerät von Stratasys bietet einer großen Anhängerschaft schönere Ausgestaltungsmöglichkeiten.“

Um die Reichweite des 3D-Druckers J850 TechStyle weiter auszubauen, hat sich Stratasys mit einer Reihe von Partnern zusammengetan, darunter Dyloan und D-house in Mailand. D-house ist ein führendes innovatives Exzellenzzentrum für neue Modetechnologien und zeigt, wie vielseitig 3D-Druckanwendungen vom Konzeptdesign bis zur Produktion mit der 3D-Modetechnologie von Stratasys sind.

Der 3D-Drucker J850 TechStyle wurde so entwickelt, dass man damit direkt auf einer Vielzahl von Stoffen und Kleidungsstücken drucken kann, darunter Jeansstoff, Baumwolle, Polyester, Leinen und Leder. Die Mengen reichen dabei von Einzelstücken bis zu Zehntausenden Stücken.

Für den 3D-Drucker J850 TechStyle gibt es eine Vielzahl von Materialien, darunter Agilus30™ CMY-Farbmaterialien für flexiblen Vollfarbdruck und Vero™ ContactFlex, eine transparente Beschichtung, die verwendet werden kann, damit sich der Stoff weich und seidig anfühlt. Mit dem Material VeroVivid™ von Stratasys können Modehäuser und Designer Textilien mit über 600.000 einmaligen Farben mit zahlreichen Shore-Härtegraden bedrucken und verschiedene Texturen und Oberflächenausführungen simulieren.

Der 3D-Drucker J850 TechStyle und die SSYS 2Y22-Kollektion werden vom 6. bis 12. Juni 2022 auf der Milan Design Week zu sehen sein.

A new interview study from NGO ChemSec shows that there is a gap between supply and demand when it comes to recycled materials, causing confusion and bottlenecks. Among other things, suppliers go out of their way using elaborate trade schemes to reach the coveted ”100% recycled” tag, which – it turns out – is not that important to consumer product brands. Far more crucial aspects, according to several major B2C companies, are:

• Honest communication towards customers
• Comprehensive information from suppliers
• Clear standards for recycled material

These are some of the conclusions from NGO ChemSec’s survey and interview study with 26 highly well-known consumer product brands. All brands responded to a survey concerning their current plastic use, as well as their needs, expectations and challenges regarding using more recycled material, to enable the shift to a circular economy for plastics.

Ten of the brands then participated in in-depth interviews on the same topics:, Essity, H&M, IKEA, Inditex , Lego, Mars,  SC Johnson, Tarkett, Unilever and Walgreens Boots Alliance.

Is non-mechanical recycling the answer?
Only about ten percent of all discarded plastics is recycled today, which is of course not nearly enough to achieve a circular plastics economy. Despite ambitions and initiatives to reduce plastics use – replacing the materials with other, more sustainable ones – the “plastic tap” is not expected to be turned off anytime soon. Quite the opposite, which makes raising the recycling rates more important than ever.

Although commercially viable, traditional (mechanical) recycling is afflicted with severe flaws, such as legacy chemicals, quality and functionality issues, as well as the lack of clean and sorted waste streams. The brands cited quality and functionality issues as the main obstacles for using more recycled material in their products.

This opens up for non-mechanical recycling, sometimes referred to as chemical recycling, where the plastic is either dissolved or broken down into smaller building blocks. Harmful additives and other hazardous chemicals can be removed in the process, and a material comparable to virgin plastic can be achieved – at least in theory.

So far, however, non-mechanical recycling technologies are costly, energy-intensive, and often require the addition of a great deal of virgin plastic to work – the very material that needs to be phased out.

The chain of custody models needs to be detangled
Apart from these production issues, there is a wide range of chain of custody models surrounding non-mechanical recycling, including mass balance and book & claim, which enable trade of credits or certificates for recycled material.

This cuts the physical connection between input and output, making it possible for a supplier to sell a material as “100% recycled”, when the actual recycled content could be zero.

This is a major issue for the brands ChemSec has spoken to, who value honest and correct communication towards customers. It turns out, perhaps somewhat surprisingly, that being able to slap a “made from 100% recycled plastic” label on a product is not all that important to brands.

To the brands, a physical connection between input (the discarded plastic waste headed for recycling) and output (the product at least partially made from recycled plastics) is far more important.

A physical connection, along with correct and adequate information from suppliers, as well as clearer standards and guidelines than what is available today, is what brands require to increase the use of recycled material and move us closer to a circular economy for plastics.

ISKO did not miss the opportunity to be a driver for change as the community of fashion leaders gathered at the event “Drapers Sustainable Fashion 2022” on April 21st, in London. Specifically, ISKO’s presence at the event took place through a stand dedicated to the company’s commitment to the development of new processes for better industry practices, and through the participation of ISKO’s head of sustainability, Ebru Ozkucuk Guler, in the panel “Leading the way: exploring denim’s approach to responsible and sustainable manufacturing”.

The company’s technology R-TWO™50+ played a great role in showing how the innovative soul of the company matches its sustainable one. R-TWO™50+ is the driving force behind ISKO’s efforts to reduce the industry’s impact on the planet. The fabrics are made with a minimum of 50% pre- and post-consumer recycled blend that is entirely Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified. This results in less use of natural resources and a reduced carbon and water footprint of up to 45% and 65% respectively.
Held at main Stage, the panel was a chance to delve into the great strides that the industry has taken to dramatically reduce its carbon footprint through ground-breaking technology, with the speakers stating that “sustainability strategies are essential for the health not only of the planet but also of the industry itself.”