From the Sector

Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is teaming up with COLOURizd™, an innovator specializing in sustainable textile dyeing technologies, to set a new standard for the eco-friendlier production of sustainable textiles.

The new collaboration will enable fabric mills and brands to combine Archroma pigment coloration solutions with the COLOURizd™ QuantumCOLOUR™ yarn-coloring technology to produce high-quality, high-performance textiles with maximum consumer appeal and minimal environmental impact.

Conventional fiber-reactive methods of dyeing cellulosic and synthetic yarns are multi-step resource-intensive processes that use up to 95 liters of water per kilograms of colored yarn and discharge approximately 94 liters of effluent.

In contrast, the innovative QuantumCOLOUR™ process injects pigment and a binder directly into the yarn, using only 0.95 liters of water per kilograms of colored yarn while producing zero effluent. This represents an unprecedented reduction of 98% in water consumption alongside zero wastewater discharge, zero discharge of harmful chemicals, 73% decrease in carbon footprint and 50% reduction in energy use.*

With Archroma, textile manufacturers and apparel brands can add further value to the QuantumCOLOUR™ process with tailor-made system solutions, including JUST COLOR. This formaldehyde-free** pigment coloration system is based on Archroma’s revolutionary Printofix® pigment dispersions and Helizarin® binders to deliver exceptionally soft fabrics with high fastness and durability, while also enabling energy and chemical savings and higher productivity.

* As tested by Peterson Control Union
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

CHT and Fulgar have collaborated to support the goal of reducing the carbon footprint with an effective and sustainable solution for the textile market.

Combining FULGAR’s circular economy ready yarns with CHT’s resource-saving dyeing techniques significantly reduces the usage of natural resources and leads to lower environmental impact and ultimately a lower carbon footprint. The combined process needs less water, uses less energy, and saves time while meeting the color fastness standards for finished textile products.

The combination of 100 % biobased polyamide EVO® by FULGAR yarns with CHT sustainable dyeing application can save water up to 64 %, energy use up to 50 % and process time up to 50 %, when compared to standard dyeing processes. Sustainable dyeing of EVO® is promoted using CHT’s soy-based dyeing auxiliary SARABID TS 300. SARABID TS 300 has accredited a C2C Certified Material Health Certificate at Gold level and USDA Certified Biobased Product Certification.

EVO® by FULGAR, the totally renewable yarn based on castor plants, does not require high amounts of water - 4 times less compared to cotton. In addition to the sustainable aspect, EVO® by FULGAR offers characteristics like lower fiber weight, particular moisture management and higher stretch often without the need for elastomer fiber. This helps to avoid material mixes for better recycling opportunities. EVO® provides greater user comfort, mainly for performance and casual apparel.

BDG [By Urban Outfitters] and the denim mill, ISKO have come together to develop a 10-piece collection made up of workwear-inspired denim pieces with finishing designs by British Artist, Dwayne Coleman.

Partnering with ISKO, Urban Outfitters has developed more sustainable denim pieces for this collaboration, utilizing recycled cotton yarns made from cutting waste. All pieces are washed using innovative technology to reduce the chemical, water, and energy footprint so that each item has a low environmental impact score. The development of these washes were done with the help of ISKO’s Creative Room London. The collection features an innovative style that uses no virgin cotton, and yet the authenticity and durability remains the same.

The collaboration incorporates the principles of circular design, including minimal wash processing, recycled cotton content, minimal metal trims and removable shank buttons. The styles are designed to last, and after many wears they will be readily recyclable for their next life. Urban Outfitters are members of Better Cotton whose mission is to help cotton communities survive and thrive, while protecting and restoring the environment as part of the brand's wider sustainability initiatives.

As a global provider of sustainable woodfibre products, Sappi will be showcasing its solutions for the garment industry under the theme “Fashion meets Forest” at ITMA 2023 – with sublimation papers and its dissolving wood pulp, used for the production of garment fibres under the “Verve” brand name.

How can the woodfibre industry support a more sustainable garments market? Sappi is eager to answer this question at the ITMA and has created a “knowledge trail” for visitors to explore under the motto “Fashion meets Forest”. Visitors to the stand can follow the journey from wood via cellulose and fibre to the finished yarn and the printed garment.

Sublimation papers: Expanded production capacity in Carmignano
Sappi’s Transjet sublimation papers stand for fast, uniform ink transfer and minimal ink consumption. As a premium supplier, Sappi is constantly striving to meet its customers’ needs. So, at this year’s ITMA, various sublimation papers with optimised qualitative properties will be on show.

Sappi maintains the high quality of its coated Transjet and uncoated Basejet sublimation papers by regularly investing in new, state-of-the-art technologies. At the end of April, a new warehouse has been inaugurated at the Carmignano mill in Italy. In the next month’s, Sappi will further invest in two new converting machines with a width of 1.9 meters and 3.2 meters as well as in a fully automated packaging line. All the investments will support the company’s vision of having a complete in-house solution for the sublimation industry, have a positive impact on CO2 emission, satisfy the increased demand of their customers as well as further improve lead times.
 
“Verve” dissolving wood pulp for high-quality textiles
Sappi will also be showcasing its dissolving pulp (DP) brand “Verve”. DP provides the feedstock raw material toward producing rayon fibres such as Lyocell and viscose and further into yarns and fabrics. Textiles produced from wood based cellulosic fibres are noted for their breathability, colour fastness, softness, drape, absorbency and biodegradability. In addition to the garment industry, dissolving pulp is also used in various household and pharmaceutical products.

Groz-Beckert will be represented at ITMA with its six product sectors and will showcase its various innovations. The presentations at the booth will be supported by augmented reality applications. This allows visitors to discover the products both live and virtually.

The Knitting product sector will be represented at the Groz-Beckert stand with its four product groups circular knitting, flat knitting, legwear and warp knitting. In the circular knitting segment, for example, two newly developed knitting systems will be on show which have been realized in collaboration with machine manufacturers. The developments focus on energy savings, extended cleaning intervals and increased process reliability.

In addition to the machines for weaving preparation, the Weaving product sector will present its recently expanded portfolio of technical weaving reeds. The new weaving reeds make it possible to supply customers who produce fabrics with high densities. The weaving reeds are used in the production of special fabrics, for example, in technical filtration, membrane technology, solar cells or touch screens.

Products and services for classic needling and hydroentanglement will be presented by the Felting (Nonwovens) product area. In the field of felting needles, visitors can look forward to two innovations: a new notch shape and the Groz-Beckert felting needle module. In the felting needle module, the needles are embedded as a module in a plastic mold for the first time. The needle modules are characterized by high deformation resistance and offer new dimensions in needle density.

For the production of tufted floor coverings such as carpets, bath mats or artificial turf, the Tufting product sector will be presenting its proven Gauge Part system.

Various new and further developments will also be shown by the Carding product area. For those interested in the nonwovens industry, for example, the world's finest Interlocking wire for reduced risk of crashis included. For customers of the spinning industry, the division will be presenting further developed stationary flats and revolving tops. The new revolving tops have been adapted to the processing of fine yarns, while the stationary flats have been provided with a new, resistant aluminum profile.

The Sewing product sector is focusing on the presentation of its special application needles, SANTM. The sewing machine needles of the SANTM series have been specially developed for demanding sewing operations – e.g. for sewing technical or finest textiles. The division will also be presenting its new Needle Finder. The Needle Finder is an interactive tool in the online customer portal that helps customers select the right needle.

At ITMA 2023, XORELLA, a specialist in steam setting and conditioning equipment for yarns and fabrics, will launch XO AUTOMATION for the double door XO SELECT conditioning machine series, and XO SOLID, a new machine series to complement XO SMART, XO TREND and XO SELECT machines.

XO AUTOMATION
The new XO AUTOMATION system consists of roller conveyor systems for loading and unloading two-door XO Select conditioning machines. Additional pallet wrapping machine with a turntable, weighting station, label printer, safety fence and security system can complete the system. The XO Select controller and automation system can handle and store individual customer-specific material and packing programmes.  

XO SELECT and XO AUTOMATION are designed for yarn steaming on multiple pallet dimensions and heights up to 2,650mm. The linear material flow passing conveyor and steaming machine avoids any mix between steamed and un-steamed materials. XO AUTOMATION fills the gap between the XO automated moving platform and the fully automated transport system – from spinning hall to warehouse.

XO SOLID
The new cubical XO SOLID combines a high loading space of 1,800mm x 1,700mm x 4, 000mm (H x W x L) through double row pin trolleys or pallets for easy manual loading of six units on floor level without a pit or platform. XO SOLID is therefore designed for installations on upper floor levels. The new frame design combines all necessary components factory preinstalled on a single frame, for easy ‘plug and play’ installation at the customer site. Additional smaller steamer dimensions for two and four loading units are also at the planning stage.

The new XO SOLID incorporates all the renowned features of XORELLA machines based on the long term experience in high temperature dyeing vessel production of FONG’s, including:

• A Siemens controller with OPC UA interface and XO data tool for batch storage.
• A XO EcoPac waterless claw pump or two-stage water ring vacuum pump.
• A high energy efficient accumulator for steam, electric and combined heating.
• Vessel and piping in world-class stainless steel.
• European key components such as pumps, heating elements, valves and sensors

Established in Switzerland in 1967, XORELLA became known in the global textile industry for its innovative indirect steaming system. Since 2002 the company has been a member of the CHTC Fong’s International Group, and a member of SINOMACH Group (China National Machinery Industry Corporation) since 2019.

The diabetic community has always been a priority for Hologenix, creators of CELLIANT® infrared technology, so the company embarked on an initial study to test the hypothesis that the technology can positively impact diabetic patients with vascular impairment, now published in Journal of Textile Science & Engineering. Another study is underway as well with more research on the horizon.

According to statistics cited in the International Diabetes Federation Diabetes Atlas, 9th edition, globally, close to a half billion people are living with diabetes and that number is expected to increase by more than 50 percent in the next 25 years.
 
The introduction of the study in the Journal of Textile Science & Engineering also reports that diabetic patients frequently suffer from a combination of peripheral neuropathy and peripheral artery disease, which particularly affects their feet. It further states that it has been estimated that the lifetime risk for the development of foot ulcers in diabetic patients can be as high as 25 percent and that the risk of amputation is 10 to 20 times higher than in non-diabetic subjects.
 
The study was performed by Lawrence A. Lavery, D.P.M., M.P.H., a Professor in the Department of Plastic Surgery at UT Southwestern Medical Center. His clinic and research interests involve diabetic foot complications, infections and wound healing, and he participated in the conception, design, implementation and authorship of the Journal of Textile Science & Engineering study.  

CELLIANT technology is a patented process for adding micron-sized thermo-responsive mineral particles to fibers, in this case polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers. The resulting CELLIANT yarns were woven into stockings and gloves containing either 82% CELLIANT polyester, 13% nylon and 5% spandex or for the placebo, 82% polyester with no CELLIANT, 13% nylon and 5% spandex. CELLIANT products absorb body heat and re-emit the energy back to the body as infrared energy, which is non-invasive and increases temporary blood flow and cell oxygenation levels in the body.

The objective of the study was to “evaluate changes in transcutaneous oxygen (TcPO2) and peripheral blood flow (laser Doppler, LD) in the hands and feet of diabetic patients with vascular impairment when CELLIANT gloves and stockings are worn.” While there was not a statistically significant result across all subjects, the study did show that some patients wearing CELLIANT stockings for 60 minutes had an increase of as much as 20% in tissue oxygenation and 30% in localized blood flow. According to the study’s conclusion, “the trends that were observed in favor of CELLIANT stockings suggest that a larger well-designed clinical trial should be undertaken and may provide evidence of clinical efficacy in treatment of the diabetic foot.”
 
The study also notes that “There have been no documented or observed side effects of wearing CELLIANT stockings, and they are relatively inexpensive compared to conventional pharmaceutical interventions.”

Hologenix has embarked on a more comprehensive trial, “Study to Evaluate CELLIANT Diabetic Medical Socks to Increase Tissue Oxygenation and Incidence of Complete Wound Closure in Diabetic Foot Wounds” – NCT04709419, which focuses on the impact of CELLIANT technology to potentially improve tissue oxygenation and wound healing outcomes.
 
“We are excited to explore whether future studies of infrared, with its most common biological effects of increased localized blood flow and cellular oxygenation, could result in a breakthrough in diabetic patients with vascular impairment,” said Seth Casden, Hologenix Co-founder and CEO. “We see a huge potential opportunity with this research for helping to fulfill our core mission of improving people’s health and well-being by potentially reducing the impact of diabetes, and we are actively seeking partners to expand our research efforts.”

A little over three years have passed since RadiciGroup announced the acquisition of Zeta Polimeri, an Italian company headquartered in Buronzo (VC) with over 30 years' experience in the recovery of pre- and post-consumer synthetic fibres and thermoplastic materials. Today, the company has become a full member of the Group with its new name Radici EcoMaterials Srl.

The new company’s long-standing know-how, combined with RadiciGroup’s as a whole, will create a virtuous production system that recovers worn-out materials (fabric, yarn and granules), or otherwise unusable materials, and processes them into raw materials available for other production cycles by taking advantage of industrial synergy.

Radici EcoMaterials is a strategic production site because it handles all the preliminary recovery stages: the sorting, processing and pre-treatment of materials, including those used for the production of post-consumer yarns and engineering polymers. In this sense, Radici EcoMaterials is in line with the most recent European policies on sustainable textiles, which address minimizing the share of materials destined for disposal sites, favouring instead more structured recycling solutions.

Radici EcoMaterials is also GRS certified. GRS certification ensures the complete traceability of its materials, which are made in a safe plant that meets the highest environmental and social certification standards.

The company is also equipped with a photovoltaic system and, for the portion of its energy needs not covered by the photovoltaic source, it partially relies on renewable energy. The goal is to use 100% green energy in the next few years, in accord with RadiciGroup's goals.

For the third time, nova-Institute awards the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award in the frame of the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2023” (8-9 March 2023). The conference advisory board nominated six remarkable products, including cellulose fibres from textile waste, banana production waste and bacterial pulp, a novel technology for producing lyocell yarns and a hygiene product. The innovations will be put to the vote of the conference audience on the first day of the event, with the awards ceremony taking place in the evening. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2023” is sponsored by GIG Karasek (AT).

Here are the six nominees
Vybrana – The new generation banana fibre – GenCrest Bioproducts (India)
Vybrana is a Gencrest’s Sustainable Cellulosic Fibre upcycled from agrowaste. Raw fibres are extracted from the Banana Pseudo stem at the end of the plant lifecycle. The biomass waste is then treated by the Gencrest patented Fiberzyme technology. Here, cocktail enzyme formulations remove the high lignin content and other impurities and help fibre fibrillation. The company's proprietary cottonisation process provides fine, spinnable cellulose staple fibres suitable for blending with other staple fibres and can be spun on any conventional spinning systems giving yarns sustainable apparel. Vybrana is produced without the use of heavy chemicals and minimized water consumption and in a waste-free process where balance biomass is converted to bio stimulants Agrosatva and Bio Fertilizers & organic manure.

HeiQ AeoniQ™ – technology for more sustainability of textiles – HeiQ (Austria)
HeiQ AeoniQ™ is the disruptive technology and key initiative from HeiQ with the potential to change the sustainability of textiles. It is the first climate-positive continuous cellulose filament yarn, made in a proprietary manufacturing process and the first to reproduce the properties of polyester and nylon yarns in a cellulosic, biodegradable, and endlessly recyclable fibre.
HeiQ AeoniQ™ can be manufactured from different cellulosic raw materials such as pre- and post-consumer textile waste, biotech cellulose, and non-valorized agricultural waste, such as ground coffee waste or banana peels. It naturally degrades after only 12 weeks in the soil. Each ton of HeiQ AeoniQ™ saves 5 tons of CO2 emissions. The first garments made with this innovative cellulosic filament fiber were commercially launched in January 2023.

TENCEL™ LUXE – lyocell filament yarn – Lenzing (Austria)
TENCEL™ LUXE is LENZING’s new versatile lyocell yarn that offers an urgently needed sustainable filament solution for the textile and fashion industry. A possible botanical alternative for silk, long-staple cotton, and petrol-based synthetic filaments, is derived from wood grown in renewable, sustainably managed forests, and produced in an environmentally sound, closed-loop process that recycles water and reuses more than 99 % of organic solvent. Certified by The Vegan Society, it is suitable for a wide range of applications and fabric developments, from finer high fashion propositions to denim constructions, seamless and activewear innovations, and even agricultural and technical solutions.

Nullarbor™ – Nanollose & Birla Cellulose (Australia/India)
In 2020, Nanollose & Birla Cellulose started a journey to develop and commercialize tree-free lyocell from bacterial cellulose, called Nullarbor™. The name derives from the Latin “nulla arbor” which means “no trees”. Initial lab research at both ends led to a joint patent application with the patent “production of high-tenacity lyocell fibres made from bacterial cellulose”.
Nullarbor is significantly stronger than lyocell made from wood-based pulp; even adding small amounts of bacterial cellulose to wood pulp increases the fibre toughness. In 2022, the first pilot batch of 260kg was produced with 20 % bacterial pulp share. Several high-quality fabrics and garments were produced with this fibre. The collaboration between Nanollose & Birla Cellulose now focuses on increasing the production scale and amount of bacterial pulp in the fibre.

Circulose® – makes fashion circular – Renewcell (Sweden)
Circulose® made by Renewcell is a branded dissolving pulp made from 100 % textile waste, like worn-out clothes and production scraps. It provides a unique material for fashion that is 100 % recycled, recyclable, biodegradable, and of virgin-equivalent quality. It is used by fibre producers to make staple fibre or filaments like viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate or other types of man-made cellulosic fibres. In 2022, Renewcell, opened the world’s first textile-to-textile chemical recycling plant in Sundsvall, Sweden – Renewcell 1. The plant will eventually reach 120,000 tons of annual capacity.

Sparkle sustainable sanitary pads – Sparkle Innovations (United States)
Globally, around 300 billion period products are discarded every year, resulting in millions of tons of non-biodegradable waste. Since most conventional sanitary pads contain up to 90 % plastics, they do not biodegrade for around 600 years. Sparkle has designed sustainable, plastic-free, biodegradable and compostable Sparkle sanitary pads. From product to packaging, they are made up of around 90 % cellulose-based materials with top sheet, absorbent core, release paper, wrapping paper and packaging made of cellulose-based fibres. Whether Sparkle pads end up in a compost pit, are incinerated or end up in a landfill, they are a more sustainable alternative compared to conventional pads that contain large amounts of plastics, complex petro-chemical based ingredients and artificial fragrances. When tested according to ISO 14855-1 by a leading independent lab in Europe, Sparkle pads reached over 90 % absolute biodegradation within 90 days in commercial composting conditions.

For the SS24 Iluna focuses on the most precious lightness and intangibility with its Ultralight series of jacquardtronic laces reminiscent of the delicacy of Leavers.
This season, responsible developments did not stop at responsible ingredients and processes; in fact, the company focused on the circular economy! The stylistic research started from the company's historical archive, to give life to a collection that revisits the proposals in a "modern classic" key.
 
The company's design team recreated the iconic designs of the line, the heart of the Black Label proposal, ILUNA's signature line offering the finest laces. Focusing on upcycling, the team reworked archival stocks, creating new value through finishings, and reweaving from scratch only the missing widths in order to present a complete, coordinated underwear/nightwear range from allovers to galoons.

For the SS24 season the Iluna team continues its developments with GOTS-certified organic cotton in its galoons and allovers, to add a natural touch to its Green Label line.
Among the ingredients chosen by Iluna Group are: Renycle® and Q-NOVA®, both GRS-certified pre-consumer recycled polyamide yarns in addition to the recycled stretch ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei. Among the new technical developments on laces, Iluna then worked on variable elasticity modules, resulting in reinforced edges or zones of differentiated elasticity that can be variously positioned within the laces.
All this results in a comfortable, ultralight product that remains true to a high value of creativity and responsibility. The option is applicable to all the Iluna laces, with modular solutions at the customer's request on fashion items as well, where research continues on FSC-certified pre-dyed viscoses and unexpected metallic gleams with lurex.

Moreover, the continuous path through the new dimension of responsibility continues in several directions: experiments with 16 different natural dyestuffs; and continued investment in technologies that can ensure significant savings in water and energy consumption, including GREENDROP, the new GOTS-certified digital pigment printing system.
From athleisure to fashion, through lingerie to the world of high fashion, Iluna's lace continues to expand its applications, confirming its extreme versatility, remarkable performance and inimitable beauty.