From the Sector

Responsible innovation plays a leading role at GenovaJeans, the initiative dedicated to new-generation jeans GenovaJeans, the initiative held in Genoa from 5 to 8 October and dedicated to the new generation of jeans, set the premises for the creation of a community dedicated to this iconic, revolutionary and innovative garment.

30 prominent industry leaders, divided into three categories (heritage, new creatives and production chain) created a inspiring experience in historic venues in the heart of the city. Presented in-group exhibitions, they forged a circular journey from the design to the creation of jeans, from the ingredient to the final outfit, and vice versa.

Heritage brands, exploring the history, evolution and best practices of this iconic garment, were hosted inside the Biblioteca Universitaria and included Blue Blanket Division, Blue Of A Kind, Diesel, IMIJT35020 By Canova, Incotex Blue Division, Mud Jeans, Pepe Jeans, Roy Roger's, Stefano Chiassai and Tela Genova.

The new creatives, a new generation of designers who have adopted innovative eco-design strategies to create smart jeans, were present inside Edificio Metelino in the Darsena area and included Andrea Grossi, Gilberto Calzolari, Gimmijeans, Jeanne Friot, Marcello Pipitone with Albiate 1830, Ksenia Schnaider, Patine, Regenesi, The Blue Suit with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei and Zerobarracento.

The production chain, composed of companies in the supply and value chain, representing the major stages in the production process, were made up of Albiate 1830 - Albini Group, Cadica, Candiani Denim, Circulose®, Officina39, Pure Denim with Bemberg™ By Asahi Kasei, Soko, Tencel™, Tonello, YKK Italia and were housed inside the Ex Oratorio di San Tommaso.

The responsible innovation, ethics and transparency adopted by each company taking part in the circular journey of GenovaJeans were explained through a QR code powered by C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy) that provided information on the garments, their composition, production phases and company values.

• From C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 to Special Project at WHITE Milan, the streetstyle Portuguese brand shows urban outfits for everyday heroes fighting for the environment, with a holistic approach to sustainability

After being rewarded with the 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award, the Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to present its Spring/Summer 2022 collection developed with C.L.A.S.S. ecohub support. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte has worked in close contact with the Milanese hub in order to create a 40 pieces collection where the approach to materials, suppliers, new business models and communication could include and support a holistic view of the sustainable values aligned with style, performances, look and touch and Duarte identity.

The inspiration behind the collection is the superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog, an English Cocker Spaniel - which is the World Keeper fighting against the environmental issues mankind has generated. Like a protector of sustainability, it battles modern monsters as Smog Man, Fire Man, Deforestation Man and Wave man, who respectively represent the issues of air pollution, climate change, forest destruction and water overconsumption. A very simple, direct and engaging way of talking about hot topics and simple, direct solutions.

The collection is made of 20 outfits, mainly unisex apart from some of them typically feminine as the crop tops. Hints of bright red and mustard yellow are alternated with denim, grey and pale azure tones, blending in with the colorful prints. Accents of black - used in inserts or as piping - seem to emphasize the outline of the garments. The different textures of the materials create a sense of movement, further enhanced by the unique patterns. All the garments’ prints are exclusively designed by the designer, following each collection inspiration: this time, they recall urban landscapes and the appeal of big metropolis, with Tadao as protagonist in prints, patches and ankle socks.

Among the most representative Duarte outfits we find:

• A matching sweater with trousers made of Newlife™, a yarn 100% made In Italy coming only from post- consumer, traceable plastic bottles.
• A unisex oversized bomber is crafted from Newlife™, lined with precious 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami and matched with printed neoprene hoodie and shorts.
• Long-panelled unisex coat and trousers made with ReLAST® denim by Candiani, a responsible textile featuring a premium recycled stretch yarn, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei. The coat is lined with a fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami in 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter.
• The same sustainable stretch yarn is implied in the responsible tulle by Iluna Group, and featured in a shorts and top women’s ensemble, paired with a neoprene printed bomber. The tulle is skillfully matched with 100% Tencel™ back in the loop fabric by Maeba International underneath it.

Ana Duarte is part of a new generation of designers with a new approach to sourcing and production: her research goes into different kind of business models to fit her responsible innovation and style needs at the same time. That’s why in her collection we can find amazing and unique combination of organic, recycled, Back in The Loop, innovative materials that are the right choice for the look&touch and the performance she’s looking for. The result is cool yet respecting people and the environment in full traceability thanks to certified and sometimes even circular solutions. Working with components from various sources and business models requires a certain expertise and a particular sensibility we find in Ana Duarte’s design solutions and in her responsible interpretation of streetwear.