From the Sector

North Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles has been making inroads challenging the conventional pad finishing process and significantly reducing its environmental footprint in collaboration with Baldwin Technology Inc. Front and center in its finishing lab is Baldwin’s TexCoat G4™ digital finishing system.
 
For nearly 125 years, the Wilson College of Textiles has been a hub of innovation and learning, transforming students into experts in the world of textiles. As the textile industry grapples with sustainability challenges, the college has embraced new technologies and innovations to address the issue head-on.
 
At the forefront of this transformation is the Zeis Textiles Extension for Economic Development, an arm of Wilson College which serves the textile industry’s prototyping and pilot production needs in its five laboratories – spun yarn, knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, and physical testing. Collaborations with various textile companies have allowed the university to foster industry partnerships that bring forth groundbreaking ideas.
 
The partnership with Baldwin Technology marks a major milestone for the Raleigh, North Carolina-based college’s efforts to contribute to a more sustainable tomorrow.
 
To tackle the longstanding challenges of unsustainable fashion, NC State has taken the lead in demonstrating to students and industry the transition from the traditional pad finishing process to Baldwin’s TexCoat™ G4 system. It offers an innovative “non-contact” precision spray that significantly reduces water consumption, energy usage and chemical waste.
 
“Instead of needing to take the fabric, dip it into a bath to saturate it, squeeze the excess, dry and cure it, you can now precisely add the exact amount of finish you need on the fabric,” explained Rick Stanford, Baldwin's VP Global Business Development of Textiles. “The TexCoat™ G4 system will reduce the amount of pick-up that’s required to carry the chemical onto the fabric. This will also take a lot less energy to dry the fabric, increasing production speeds.”
 
The adoption of the TexCoat™ G4 system signals a new era for the college, allowing students to actively participate in shaping a sustainable future for the textiles industry. In the global effort to protect the planet and its resources, NC State's Wilson College of Textiles is at the forefront, preparing the next generation of professionals to be the leaders of the sustainable textile movement.

UK-based textile testing solutions provider James Heal has launched two new instruments in its tensile and compression testing range, marking 25 years of innovation since their first Titan universal testing machine was developed in 1999.

Having seen sustained growth in the market for personal protective equipment (PPE), particularly safety workwear, equipment and footwear, James Heal designed the Titan 25 to meet demand for quality testing products that require higher capacity tests. In addition, the company has experienced increasing demand in testing solutions for wider sporting, industrial and transportation applications, which also influenced the decision to develop higher capacity test instrumentation.

The new Titan 25 is the highest capacity universal testing machine to join the range capable of tests up to 25kN, while the 10kN Titan 10 has been newly refined. The new instruments offer efficiencies through automation, quick change connections for tooling with compatibility across the range, upgraded software, plus enhanced safety features.

These dual column instruments enable testing on larger specimens across a wide range of tensile and compression tests. Load cells from 100N to 25kN allow testing to as low as 2N giving laboratories maximum flexibility and return for their investment.

Simple to use, the new Titan testers have over 750 pre-loaded standard procedures in the TestWise software, with the option for users to customise and save their own standards. The software automatically sets parameters for each selected test, reducing set up time and eliminating user error.

Groz-Beckert offers interested machine builders various cooperation opportunities to jointly develop new products or improve existing ones. In collaboration with Vanguard Pailung, a manufacturer of ultra-high-speed knitting machines for body-size products, Groz-Beckert has developed an innovative slider needle for a new generation of machines. Groz-Beckert's Technology and Development Center (TEZ) provides the appropriate framework for so-called co-development projects.

In June 2022, Vanguard Pailung approached Groz-Beckert with a cooperation request. Together with Groz-Beckert, the company wanted to develop a new needle solution for an innovative ultra-high-speed machine. Together with an innovative slide needle, the new machine was to exceed the speed and productivity of known knitting systems of large circular knitting machines.

Machine and needle development ran in parallel and were closely coordinated. The first field tests took place in the Vanguard Pailung laboratory in Monroe/NC, USA in February 2023. The successful development was presented to a wide audience for the first time at ITMA 2023 in June.

Unlike latch needles, slide needles do not form the stitch via a needle latch, but via a slide that is controlled by its own channel. The advantage of this is that the needle can withstand high speeds, as there is no latch impact, which in turn increases productivity.

The use of the new slide needle in ultra-high-speed machines ensures a particularly high level of process reliability. With the new needle variant, the closer is guided safely and precisely in the groove in the needle shank. At the same time, the base of the needle shank is closed, which ensures maximum stability. The slider needle reliably prevents the so-called latch impact and thus makes a decisive contribution to process reliability. Its use ensures a uniform and speed-independent loop structure, even at maximum speeds.

Since March 1st 2024, the technical centre of Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (ITA) has been equipped with an additional winder.

This globally unique winder has been manufactured by Comoli Fermo S.r.l, Paruzzaro, Italy, and enables the development of elastic yarns for numerous and innovative areas of application. Monofilament and multifilament yarns can be spun within a speed range of 100 to 3,200 m/min on bobbins with an industrial standard size of 73.6 mm x 83.8 mm x 115.5 mm.

The use of these bobbins enables immediate further processing along the textile process chain, for example in production of elastic combination yarns or knitting. Due to the high flexibility of this winder in combination with the available spinning plants at ITA, testing is possible with material amounts starting from a few hundred grams up to hundreds of kilograms.

Many end-users now expect recycled materials to be in textile products they purchase – and this is driving innovation throughout the industry. However, there are still many technical and economic issues facing yarn and fabric producers using recycled resources. Members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association offer some effective solutions to these challenges.

Synthetic recycled materials such as PET can usually be treated similarly to new yarn, but there are additional complexities where natural fibres like wool and cotton are involved. Today, there’s a trend towards mechanically recycled wool and cotton fibres.

Spinning recycled cotton
The use of mechanically recycled fibres in spinning brings specific quality considerations: they have higher levels of short fibres and neps – and may often be colored, particularly if post-consumer material is used. It’s also true that recycled yarns have limitations in terms of fineness. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fibre data, supporting sustainability goals, including benchmarks for blends of virgin and recycled cotton.
In general, short fibres such as those in recycled material can easily be handled by rotor spinning machines. For ring spinning, the shorter the fibres, the more difficult it is to guide them through the drafting zone to integrate them into the yarn body. Still, for wider yarn counts and higher yarn quality, the focus is now shifting to ring spinning. The presence of short fibres is a challenge, but Rieter offers solutions to address this issue.

Knitting recycled wool
For recycling, wool fibres undergo mechanical procedures such as shredding, cutting, and re-spinning, influencing the quality and characteristics of the resulting yarn. These operations remove the natural scales and variations in fibre length of the wool, causing a decrease in the overall strength and durability of the recycled yarn. This makes the yarn more prone to breakage, especially under the tension exerted during knitting.

Adapting to process recycled materials often requires adjustments to existing machinery. Knitting machines must be equipped with positive yarn suppliers to control fibre tension. Steiger engages in continuous testing of new yarns on the market, to check their suitability for processing on knitting machines. For satisfactory quality, the challenges intensify, with natural yarns requiring careful consideration and adaptation in the knitting processes.

From fibres to nonwovens
Nonwovens technology was born partly from the idea of recycling to reduce manufacturing costs and to process textile waste and previously unusable materials into fabric structures. Nonwovens production lines, where fibre webs are bonded mechanically, thermally or chemically, can easily process almost all mechanically and chemically recycled fibres.

Autefa Solutions offers nonwovens lines from a single source, enabling products such as liners, wipes, wadding and insulation to be produced in a true closed loop. Fibres are often used up to four times for one product.

Recycling: total strategy
Great services, technology and machines from members of Swiss Textile Machinery support the efforts of the circular economy to process recycled fibres. The machines incorporate the know-how of several decades, with the innovative power and quality standards in production and materials.
Stäubli’s global ESG (environmental, social & governance) strategy defines KPIs in the context of energy consumption, machine longevity and the recycling capacity in production units worldwide, as well in terms of machinery recyclability. The machine recyclability of automatic drawing in machines, weaving systems and jacquard machines ranges from 96 to 99%.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Limited (FET) has been awarded £50,000 of grant funding to collaborate with the University of Manchester on complex spin pack and spinneret designs. This funding will provide FET with access to the expertise of four universities and the National Physical Laboratory to develop the next generation of machinery.

The grant is awarded by a consortium led by AMPI (The Advanced Machinery and Productivity Institute) and NPL (The National Physical Laboratory). AMPI’s Innovation for Machinery (I4M) programme supports businesses in West Yorkshire and Greater Manchester as part of an overall initiative to drive innovation for the UK’s advanced machinery manufacturers to meet the challenges of developing new technology and entering emerging markets.

In this project, FET will be working with the University of Manchester to conduct computational fluid dynamics (CFD) studies on a number of complex spin pack and spinneret designs. The aim of this work is to identify areas of improvement for FET’s spin packs and spinnerets and to use computer aided designs to develop significantly more efficient versions. The goal is that the research will improve the throughput of FET extrusion systems, thus reducing the amount of polymer lost through inefficient flow paths. This development, in turn, will reduce the environmental impact of synthetic polymer processing.

FET designs, develops, and manufactures extrusion equipment for a range of high value textile material applications worldwide. Established in 1998, FET’s major strength has always been to collaborate with customers in testing, evaluating and developing high value materials with diverse, functional properties. Efficiency and sustainability are key, so enhanced development of spinneret technology will contribute significantly to these objectives.

Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG will participate in the Colombiatex textile show, held in Medellin from 23 to 25 January. This year, Mahlo will be joining forces with Brückner Textile Technologies to present their solutions for the textile production sector at their joint booth.

Both companies appreciate the power of Colombia’s textile industry. Textile is one of the most important industrial sectors in the Latin American country with an export value of clothing of more than 600 million US dollars. The United States are also the main export destination for apparel products. At Colombiatex 2024, Mahlo's Head of Sales, Thomas Höpfl, will be present to share insights and discuss how Mahlo’s innovative technologies can address the specific challenges faced by Colombian textile manufacturers. Sustainability of process efficiency being among the most pressing ones.

This year’s edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME proved to be a success for the exhibiting VDMA member companies. Measured by booked square metres, Germany had the largest contingent, among the foreign exhibitors. More than 40 VDMA member companies were exhibiting their innovative products in Shanghai.

Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association noted: “Although facing a difficult market situation, this year’s edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME has exceeded the expectations, both in terms of the number of visitors and the quality of the talks. The significant number of foreign visitors to the fair was particularly pleasing.”

Solutions were demonstrated for more sustainable textile productions by most of the exhibitors, and here the VDMA members presented their technologies for saving water, energy and raw materials under the heading “Smart technologies for green textile production.”  

Dr. Uwe Rondé, CEO, Saurer Intelligent Technology AG explained: “Saurer is satisfied with both the number of visitors and the quality of the discussions. Our booth was full from morning to evening with customers focused on latest technologies within the three mega trends: recycling, automation and digitalisation. Although machine utilisation in the spinning mills is still well below average, people are already gathering information and thinking about what to invest in once the market recovers.”

Benjamin Reiners, owner of Reiners + Fürst stated: „This year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME has exceeded our expectations by far. Especially the first day - a Sunday - has brought many high-quality customers and exclusively decision makers to our booth. We estimate about 20% international customers mainly from Bangladesh, Egypt, India, Iran, Pakistan, Uzbekistan and Vietnam. All customers agreed that the market situation at the moment is difficult, capacity usage is between 50-75% in the ring spinning sector and improvement is expected not before the 2nd half of 2024. Nevertheless the general spirit is very positive.“

“This ITMA ASIA was a great success for Trützschler. We welcomed a large number of Chinese visitors to our booth, as well as a significant number of interested international visitors”, said Dr. Bettina Temath, Head of Global Marketing Trützschler Group SE.

Georg Stausberg, CEO of the polymer processing solutions division and chief sustainability officer of the Oerlikon Group stated: „We can look back on a successful show where we were able to meet many of our customers not only from China, but also from Pakistan, India and Indonesia, for example.”

“A very well-attended trade fair, with interesting discussions, great innovative topics, in line with the modern and rapidly developing China" noted Wolfgang Schöffl, head of product line weaving machines and member of the extended management, Lindauer Dornier.

The VDMA Textile Machinery Association and VDMA China were present at the fair, to support the members e.g. with regard to IPR. With the help of a VDMA expert and a contracted law firm, the member company Sahm submitted a complaint application for patent infringement disputes during the exhibition to the onsite IPR office. Both parties, Sahm, and the Chinese company, that used patented design without permission reached an agreement: The Chinese company had to stop displaying functions and designs involving patent infringement on site which meant the removal of some structural parts and the covering of key components protected by patent protection.

Dr. Harald Weber, managing director of VDMA Textile Machinery concluded: “Asia, and China in particular, represent the primary foreign markets for the VDMA member companies in the sector. The Chinese market is the main destination for their exports. Other major export destinations in Asia include India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a unique platform to showcase technologies for customers directly in Asia. The VDMA member companies are looking forward to the coming edition of the fair from 14 to 18 October 2024 in Shanghai.”

The latest survey of VDMA members' subsidiaries in China gives reason to hope that the economic situation in the Chinese textile industry could also improve significantly in the second half of the year. In addition, European textile machinery manufacturers are urged to be present on the most important market and at the trade fair and to offer Asian customers most advanced technology for their demanding challenges.

Santoni Shanghai Knitting Machinery Co., Ltd. announces that it has received regulatory approval from Chinese authorities for its proposed acquisition of Terrot GmbH, a manufacturer of circular knitting machines in Germany.

The acquisition represents a pivotal step in Santoni's strategy to advance the circular knitting machine industry. The integration of Terrot into the Santoni ecosystem is projected to increase Santoni's production capacity and boost its market share, and in conjunction with other strategic objectives, firmly solidify Santoni's position as the leading manufacturer in the industry, with unrivaled scale, depth of innovation and expertise.

Seeking to meet rising demand for high-end circular knitting products, Santoni has pursued an Ecosystem Strategy in recent years, aiming to unify a highly fragmented industry and enhance innovation, sustainability and digitalization to more effectively meet market needs. The deployment of both parties' latest innovation practices, textile automation offerings, integrated enterprise services, C2M solutions, and a platform for designers "Materialliance", will allow Santoni Shanghai and Terrot to connect and bridge demand and offer of circular knitted products.

By incorporating Terrot's offerings, particularly in the double jersey and jacquard sector, Santoni stands to gain a competitive edge in offering machines known for their performance, low maintenance, and cost-effectiveness. Highlighting this shift is Terrot's UCC 572-T, a transfer jacquard machine for sports and leisurewear.

Following the acquisition, Terrot will continue to operate under the leadership of managing directors Robert W. Czajkowski and Dirk Lange. Santoni plans to maintain Terrot’s headquarters in Chemnitz, Germany, along with its facilities, brands, and practices.

In China, the textile industry is forward-looking and resilient – with a healthy appetite for new technologies and a determination to keep its leading position. Sustainability is increasingly coming into focus, so there is a growing demand for recycling technologies, as well as automated solutions and digitalization. Cornelia Buchwalder, Secretary General of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association, is clear: “China is the main market for a large number of our association members.” On top of growing consumer demand and technological capabilities, the latest ambitious five-year plan will drive further development of the Chinese textile industry in world markets, and Swiss companies will work with all stakeholders to enable its success.

Market proximity
Swiss companies realized many years ago that geographical proximity is the key to success. Stäubli has started to set up offices in Chinese cities since 1998 and counts 12 locations today, to serve the whole country. In 2002, Itema established a centralized local branch which today has 160 employees in various functions. Loepfe has expanded its presence by creating an independent local business unit to overcome the 9,000 km distance by air, while Uster Technologies has had a Chinese subsidiary since 1982, with offices and service stations in different provinces. Luwa set up its offices and workshop in Shanghai in 1997. Rieter established a presence in mainland China in 2005, driven by a strong commitment to expanding the country’s know-how and expertise – and ten years later opened an advanced research center. All Swiss companies with serious business goals in China have made similar commitments to connect with customers and maintain strong relationships.

Understanding Chinese customers
Swiss companies also understand that Chinese customers require dedicated attention, and that speed is more essential than ever in delivering both machines and services.
Manufacturers in China are seeking cost-effective solutions to remain competitive, while consumers are looking for value in their purchases. Companies need to develop solutions that provide tangible economic benefits to their clients. Furthermore, energy savings have become paramount in China, due to the government's commitment to environmental sustainability and reduced carbon emissions. “Businesses are adopting more energy-efficient processes and technologies to meet stringent energy conservation and emission reduction targets,” says Peter Schnickmann, Managing Director at Luwa Air Engineering (Shanghai). He notes an investment trend for solutions helping Chinese companies cut operational costs and minimize their carbon footprint.

To enhance the reputation of both companies and products – and boost the image of the entire industry – the environmental impact needs to decrease. Priorities are saving water and waste, as well as reducing, replacing or completely eliminating the use of harmful substances. China has a strong demand for environmental-friendly solutions and sustainable technologies.

Customer-oriented in weaving
The huge number of Chinese fabric producers calls for an immense volume of weaving machinery to be supplied by international and local providers. Swiss machinery manufacturers hold an impressive share of this business.
Chinese weavers require advanced technology, with increasingly higher standards of efficiency. In weaving preparation, latest solutions match the speed, quality and reliability now wanted. Weaving machines too offer the eco-efficiency, performance, and ease of use needed, with innovations that extend the scope of sustainable weaving, and open-platform systems configurable to weavers’ specific operations. A huge increase in demand for technical textiles in recent years has been driven by applications such as carbon fiber, aramid and glass fiber.

Profitable in spinning
China’s competitive advantages come from its large-scale and integrated manufacturing capabilities, along with the use of advanced automation and digitization technologies. Spinners aim to capitalize on extended market opportunities, with more economical production. The latest air-jet spinning machines serve these goals, allowing exceptionally low production costs per kilogram of yarn, coupled with high flexibility and reliability. Sustainable yarns are in great demand.

The automation trend in spinning mills focuses on connecting production processes. Data is used to ensure the highest quality standards, most efficient raw material usage, reduction of waste, and energy savings. To make spinning mills more competitive, latest solutions combine cutting-edge hardware, data-enabled software and renowned textile expertise.