From the Sector

• Leading Turkish textile printing company Hamle has installed a new Monforts Thermex dyeing range as part of its ongoing strategy of continuous investment.

“Investment in new technology and capacity expansions are very important to us, in order to stay ahead in terms of sustainable, high quality production,” says general manager Gürkan Uzuner. “We carefully assess the benefits of each advanced new technology in order to thrive in a sector that is constantly changing.

“The Zara Group is a major European customer for us, along with well-known Turkish brands such as LCW and De-Facto, and it’s no accident that Çorlu, due to its proximity to Istanbul and the ease of supplying to Europe, has become the epicentre of Turkish textile production. The quality of textiles coming from the region is now very well proven.”

Integration

Hamle’s plant in Çorlu already houses a Monforts ten-chamber Montex stenter and two Monforts sanforizing ranges on which the company carries out an extensive range of finishing processes. The new Thermex range further integrates a number of processes on technology all from a single supplier. The Thermex universal hotflue for continuous dyeing, condensing and thermosoling achieves unrivalled reliability even at maximum fabric speeds, for exceptional cost-effectiveness when dyeing both large and small batches of woven fabrics. The new range installed for Hamle benefits from the Econtrol® process* for reactive dyestuffs. This is quick and economical one-pass pad-dry and wash off process, with drying in the hot flue at 120-130°C and controlled humidity (25-30% by volume) to obtain fixation in 2-3 minutes.
Econtrol® ensures excellent reproducibility of all colours, improved dye penetration on difficult fabrics and no risk of the browning of cotton or other cellulose fibres due to the low fixation temperature.

As such, it is the ideal process for fast change technology and operational savings. “The new Thermex range has some very advanced automation features which ensure our machine operators have full control over the entire system,” Mr Uzuner concludes. “ As the Monforts representative in Turkey, Neotek has been our solution partner in the installation and commissioning and has been with us every step of the way.
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* Econtrol® is a registered mark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany.

In pandemic year 2020 circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. (MCT) has further improved its leading position in Turkey. So the country continues to be one of the company’s strongest and most consistent sales markets. Even in difficult years, the manufacturer and its longstanding Turkish representative Mayer Mümessillik have achieved positive results. The reasons for this year’s success, as Mayer & Cie. sees it, are the transfer of production to locations close to Europe, Turkey’s state-of-theart machinery and the increase in demand for comfortable clothing that is suitable as home office wear.

Turkish market is a growth market despite corona setback
“Compared to 2019, we anticipate a growth in the Turkish market even though the corona situation was a serious setback in the second quarter of 2020,” says Stefan Bühler, Mayer & Cie.’s regional sales manager for Turkey.

Mayer & Cie. got off to a strong start on the Bosporus in the first quarter of 2020 with additional positive effects until mid-March. This was due to a desire for production locations close to Europe. In the second quarter, during the lockdown, demand largely ground to a halt. Government measures helped to cushion the downturn. Says Ahmet M. Öğretmen, general manager of MCT’s Turkish sales partner Mayer Mümessillik: “In the second quarter, GDP was down by about 10 percent, so we got off lightly.”

Since July 2020, orders for Mayer & Cie. circular knitting machines have bounced back again. Ahmet M. Öğretmen sees an interplay of reasons for this recovery. The main reason, he says, is the low exchange rate of the Turkish lira, which has boosted exports of ready-made textiles. The Turkish daily Hürriyet reports, with reference to the Turkish state news agency, 11 percent year-on-year growth in August 2020. The most important export markets, the newspaper says, are Germany, the UK and Spain. Between them, they account for around half of exports totalling € 1.27 billion.* “This demand must be fulfilled,” Öğretmen says. “That leads to investment in machinery by manufacturers.”

Relanit is synonymous with single jersey
The machines of choice for Turkish knitwear manufacturers are regularly Mayer & Cie. machines. The long-established German firm’s share of the Turkish market is substantially higher than in other markets. The manufacturer’s position is particularly strong in the market for plain single jersey fabrics, with the Relanit 3.2 HS being the machine of choice. It achieves an extraordinarily high level of productivity, especially in processing elastomer yarns. It also handles a wide range of yarns reliably.

“Interlock is Mayer & Cie.”
Mayer & Cie. is one of the leader in the second major circular knitting discipline, rib and interlock fabrics. The machines used for double jersey fabrics are the OV 3.2 QCe, the D4 2.2 II and the D4 3.2 II. The OV 3.2 QCe knits interlock, 8-lock structures, spacers and fine gauge with 3.2 systems. The D4 2.2 II is another stalwart for rib, 8-lock and interlock. The 8-lock D4 3.2 II is the machine of choice for firms that want to manufacture structures such as Piqué, Punto di Roma or Thermal in addition to interlock.

The MBF 3.2 is another top seller in Turkey. A three-thread fleece machine, it knits fabrics for sportsand leisurewear such as hoodies and is very much in keeping with the trend in home office year 2020. “Comfortable clothing is circular knitted,” says Ahmet M. Öğretmen, “and we benefit from that of course.”

One of the world’s most state-of-the-art machine parks are in Turkey
Another advantage is the modernity of the Turkish machine park, which is doubly attractive in view of Turkey’s weak currency. Says Mayer Mümessillik general manager Öğretmen: “In the past 10 to 20 years there has been very heavy investment in high-quality machines. As a consequence we have the world’s youngest and most up-to-date production facilities.” Combined with geographical proximity to the main export markets in Europe that should prove a growth driver in the years ahead – and keep demand for Mayer & Cie. machines brisk and high.

*More informationen here.

In a roundtable discussion during the recent Innovate Textiles & Apparel (ITA) textile machinery exhibition, imogo Founding Partner Per Stenflo and representatives from a number of like-minded European companies discussed the opportunities for new spray application technologies for the dyeing and finishing sector.

These technologies can achieve tremendous savings for manufacturers compared to traditional water-intensive processes it was explained at the event, held online from October 15-30th.

Pioneer
imogo – one of the latest companies to join TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – is one of the key pioneers in this area with its Dye-Max system. Dye-Max spray dyeing technology can slash the use of fresh water, wastewater, energy and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems. This is due to the extremely low liquor ratio of 0.3-0.8 litres per kilo of fabric and at the same time, considerably fewer auxiliary chemicals are required to start with.

Obstacles
Such technologies, however, face a number of obstacles to adoption and during the ITA discussion it was agreed that 2020 has not provided the ideal climate for adventurous investors. “The textile industry is quite conservative and is definitely in survival mode at the moment and it is not the time to be a visionary,” said Stenflo. “Day to day business is about staying alive – that’s the reality for many of our customers.” Nevertheless, all of the panellists agreed that sustainable production will remain top of the agenda for the textile industry in the longer term and spray technologies for dyeing and finishing processes will be a part of it.

“Any investment in something new is a risk of course, and we have to be able to explain and convince manufacturers that there’s a good return on investment, not only in respect of sustainability, but in terms of making good business sense,” said Stenflo. “Here we could use the help of the brands of course, in putting pressure on their suppliers to be more sustainable. Governments also have a role to play, in providing incentives for producers to move in the sustainable direction. Sustainability alone will never cut it, there has to be a business case, or it won’t happen.”

Marketing
The marketing of sustainable new fibers is comparatively easy for the brands compared to explaining the difficult textile processes and the chemistries involved in fabric and garment production, he added.

“These fibers, however, currently go through all the same dirty processes that we need to get away from, so it must happen,” he said. “In developing our technologies, it has been important for us to avoid disrupting existing supply chains, stick with using off-the-shelf chemistries and dyes, and involve the dye manufacturers who are an essential part in how operations are driven today. “In fact, collaboration across the entire textile supply chain – from the brands right back to the new technology developers – is essential in moving the sustainability agenda forward.

Business models
“We are also looking into new business models in terms of how to reduce or lower the thresholds for investment and minimise the risk for the manufacturers who are looking to be the innovators,” he concluded. Also taking part in the ITA roundtable discussion were Simon Kew (Alchemie Technology, UK), Christian Schumacher (StepChange Innovations, Germany) Tobias Schurr (Weko, Germany), Rainer Tüxen (RotaSpray, Germany) and Felmke Zijilstra (DyeCoo, Netherlands).

European innovations
“It’s fantastic that all of this innovation is taking place in Europe based on established know-how and forward thinking,” said TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson.

“Spray application technologies are a perfect illustration of how new digital technologies can lead to more sustainable production, in this case by replacing water-intensive processes with the highly precise and controlled application of dyes and chemistries as vapour.
“There was a major project by the Swedish research organisation Mistra Future Fashion recently, involving many brand and academic institute partners. The project’s Fiber Bible 1 and 2 reports conclude that it’s very difficult to make assumptions that one fiber is better than another, because it’s so much about how fabrics and garments are being produced from them. The study also found that 55% of the chemicals used in a garment comes from the dyeing. This is where a number of TMAS companies can make a difference.
“An organic or recycled cotton t-shirt is not automatically more sustainable than a conventional cotton t-shirt, or even one made from synthetics – the alternative fibers are a good start but you have to consider the entire life cycle of a garment, and that includes the smart technologies in textiles production.
“TMAS members – backed by Swedish brands and advanced research institutes – are playing an active part in pushing forward new concepts that will work, and I have no doubt that digitalisation now goes hand in hand with sustainability for the textile industry’s future.”          

• A new collaborative business model gives life to ECONNECTION: an eco-high-tech collection designed thinking of the “end of life”

Three premium textile companies, one common goal: jointly offer ready to use, coordinated solutions that are design driven, performing and responsible also at the end of life.

Penn Textile Solutions/Penn Italia - international company producing and developing innovative fabrics through warp and weft knitting technologies, Tessitura Colombo Antonio, famous for the processing of lace and ribbons dedicated to the world of corsetry , Elastici Besana specialized in the production of narrow elastic for corsetry and underwear, have been working together to expand the frontiers of sustainable manufacture practices and to offer an innovative collection , a new set of incredible eco high tech innovations delivering a responsibility concept including also the end of life : ECONNECTION.

The responsible ECONNECTION collection, in which the words ECO and CONNECTION mixed to underline the importance of connect and come together for a sustainable project, features:

• 7 advanced knitted stretch fabrics by Penn Textile Solutions/Penn Italia,
• 3 precious laces by Tessitura Colombo Antonio
• 3 functional bands by Elastici Besana

So, 3 key leading companies with a key target : to design and deliver the market amazing responsible fabrics able to offer a responsible end of life. This opened up the door to new generation of ingredients such as:

• ROICA™ V550 made by leading fiber manufacturer Asahi Kasei, a premium sustainable stretch yarn that at the end of his life smartly breaks down without releasing harmful substances in the environment according to Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certification and also boasting the Gold Level Material Health Certificate by Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute** as it has been evaluated for impact on human and environmental health.
• Amni Soul Eco®, the world’s first biodegradable in anaerobic conditions polyamide 6.6 yarn that degrades in around 5 years* after disposing in landfill, developed by SOLVAY and produced and distributed in Italy by FULGAR.

The collection is presented in its BIO -BOX that will be sent to selected brands at worldwide level

A smart project that highlights the importance of synergies between companies know how, and new generation of materials , that is able to take products to a new level of responsible innovation, technology and exceptional performances where beauty and function will be able to carry the smart factor for the values they represent for the consumer and highlighting for the first time also the importance of their end of life.

• Composite textiles for modern mobility
• Extremely lightweight, high tensile components by vombaur

In the snow, on a plane, in an electric vehicle or on a bicycle: no matter where and how we are on the road – composite textiles by vombaur ensure that we make good progress. With materials that are both extremely light and extremely reliable.

Lightweight components for modern mobility
Modern mobility relies on high-tech lightweight components Narrow textiles by vombaur are woven from high-performance fibres. On looms that are specially made for particularly demanding composite textiles: the textile company uses special machines to produce high-tech woven tapes with closed selvedges and elasticated UD tubulars that retain their 0° orientation over the entire length of the component – regardless of the diameter. Since they do not exhibit undesired break points caused by seams or welding, they not only have a particularly high bursting strength, they are also extremely reliable and durable.

Challenging applications
"From snowboards to aerospace – the applications for our composite textiles are demanding; the mechanical, chemical and thermal requirements are extreme," explains COO Christoph Schliefer. "As a development partner, we at vombaur are therefore often involved in product development at an early stage. We specify our woven tapes and tubulars individually for each project to suit the specific task at hand."

High quality raw materials, wide variety of geometries
The variety of shapes is virtually unlimited. vombaur manufactures 3D fabrics for composites in individual special shapes from carbon, aramid, glass or hybrids. Curves, edges, tubulars, spiral fabrics – the shape of the 3D fabrics, like the material itself, depends entirely on the task at hand. Powder or non-woven coatings create additional important properties.

Pioneering tech tex
"Developments in the field of modern mobility are happening at a rapid pace," emphasizes Schliefer. "With our composite textiles for extremely lightweight and high tenacity components, we at vombaur are also pushing these developments forward."

Neumünster – Success is built by connecting the right people with the right product. In a global marketplace, this means collaboration is just as important as competition. Companies need to focus on their strengths, while finding practical ways to innovate and expand upon their capabilities.

An exclusive license from Procter & Gamble offers the best for nonwovens

In order to do so, working together often makes the most sense. This is what motivated Procter & Gamble and Oerlikon Nonwoven – Teknoweb Materials to agree on an exclusive license agreement to market and sell the Phantom platform worldwide.

The patented process for hybrid nonwovens combines the best of both airlaid and spunmelt technologies to deliver new, flexible ways of creating wet and dry wipes. Phantom technology offers additional benefits by reducing resources and cost, while increasing overall performance. The exclusive license gives Oerlikon Nonwoven – Teknoweb Materials distribute this technology worldwide. In addition, Oerlikon Nonwoven – Teknoweb Materials have further refined the process into their own Levra technology – an entry-level option which offers tailored production volumes with lower investment costs but is still suitable to be upgraded to the premium Phantom model in the future.

Quality products that cost less

Essentially, Phantom technology was developed to produce hybrid substrates. The spunmelt and airlaid processes are merged into one step to combine cellulose fibers, long fibers such as cotton, or even powders with polymer fibers in unprecedented ways. This technology has clear advantages in terms of resources, performance, and cost compared to the previous processes on the market. By removing hydroentanglement, it is no longer necessary to dry the material. Adjusting the process can optimize relevant product characteristics such as softness, strength, dirt absorption, and liquid absorption. In the end, this even increases the quality of the product itself.

The greater freedom for formulating continuous and discrete fibers allows for more flexible and absorbent structures and highly textured materials. Wipes feel softer to the touch while providing more protection for the hands. Up to 90% of the material can consist of pulp fibers, although natural alternatives like cotton or synthetic fibers can be added to the mix.

Phantom technology has not only found a practical application in a variety of wipes – such as hygiene wipes, anti-bacterial wipes, surgical wipes, or industrial wipes – but also in absorbent cores, for instance indiapers or fempro products. With so many applications, Oerlikon Nonwoven – Teknoweb Materials are fully prepared to deliver Procter & Gamble’s innovative Phantom technology to the global nonwovens market.

Anker, Devan and Shark Solutions teamed up to create the world’s first flame retardant aviation carpet using a recycled binder. Inspired by the knowledge and the needs of the aviation market, Anker motivated to achieve this new goal together. The PVB binder reuses laminated glass, from windshields and architectural/building glass, that otherwise would go to landfill.

German carpet manufacturer Anker is the first company to offer flame retardant carpets for aviation that are made with a recycled binder. In the search for a more sustainable binder, Anker discovered the PVB from Shark Solutions, a Danish cleantech company focused on giving a new life to post-consumer PVB. Properties of the aviation carpet with PVB as binder are the same as those of traditional non-sustainable carpets. The market has been looking for this type of solutions for a long time and market introduction has already started. Anker will introduce well known and special developed styles of aviation carpets with PVB and plan to take out traditional non-sustainable aviation carpets stepwise as soon as possible.

Shark’s PVB reuses laminated glass, from windshields and architectural/building glass, that otherwise would go to landfill. The non-toxic binder (no chlorine or phthalates) is fully recyclable and thus lives up to the future standards of the industry.

Textile innovator Devan Chemicals, known for its tailor-made flame retardant solutions, was called in to develop the flame retardant back coating, which is compliant with the Airbus and Boeing safety standards. “Based on many years of experience and competences in customer related developments, improving recycling rates is getting more and more important”, says Dirk Vanpachtenbeke, R&D manager Flame Retardants at Devan. “We are very proud that, together with Anker and Shark Solutions, we can contribute to this rising demand for products that meet the standards of a circular economy solution.”

In other news, Anker and Devan are already working on a new project, which includes Devan’s antimicrobial/viral-reducing technology. Recently, Devan published test results on the activity of their technology (BI-OME®) against SARS-CoV-2 and other viruses. According to independent testing, BI-OME is proven to achieve 99% and higher virus reduction, including of SARS-COV-2, on samples before washing and retains 98.5% even after 25 wash cycles. This technology has been recognized with the 2020 European Technology Innovation Leadership Award by Frost & Sullivan.

With the PFAFF 4520, engineers and technicians from PFAFF have designed a full-automatic production line (CE compliant) for processing multi-layer disposable masks, which meets the requirements of "German engineering" in a unique way. The product combines 150 years of expertise in joining textile materials and a concentrated know-how of the PFAFF INDUSTRIAL and KSL brands in the areas of process control, automation and robotics.

The PFAFF 4520 is an investment in a robust and sophisticated production line (MADE IN GERMANY) with an exceptionally reliable working process. In times of Covid-19 it is so important to rely on the right equipment for the mask production and avoid costly readjustments or an unnecessary second investment!

Key facts of the unit:

-    Size of the mask: 175 x 95 mm
-    Output:  3,500 – 4,000 masks per hour
-    1-, 2- or 3 ply processing  (Non-woven/filtration fabric)
-    SPS (PLC) control of the entire mask system
-    Exceedingly quiet working process of the whole unit
-    Ultrasonic welding components from German manufacturers
-    Protective housing for occupational safety of the operator
-    Packing station + printing station for personalized masks (on request)

The machine package also includes important features in the pre- and after sales:

PFAFF technicians ensure the adjustment of the desired customer material (non-woven or similar filter material) and the number of layers (1-, 2-, 3-ply) to the machine and make a "Ready to production" installation of the whole unit at the customer.  A fast service response time in after-sales (by involvement of the PFAFF sales- and service partner on site) ensures a maximum production output.

Retrofitting a wiping robot to spinning systems is well worthwhile. This is confirmed by the experiences of those customers who have already installed the wiping robot. Oerlikon Barmag wiping robots have been cleaning spin packs at filament yarn manufacturing facilities in China and India for several months now, increasing efficiency considerably.

Regular wiping of the spin packs is important for process stability and yarn quality. These can be positively influenced using wiping robots, because – as confirmed by data acquisition and analysis at the respective manufacturing facilities – the yarn break rate can be reduced by up to 30% by automating the wiping process. And the yarn break rate has a direct impact on the key production figures; to this end, a considerable reduction translates into pure profit for yarn manufacturers.

Can also be retrofitted to existing systems
The Oerlikon Barmag wiping robot can be retrofitted to numerous spinning plants. Suspended from a track system mounted on the ceiling, the system automatically and autonomously targets the individual positions in accordance with the scheduled wiping cycles. In addition to the scheduled wiping processes, there are also events that cannot be planned or that are not immediately visible. Depending on the degree of integration into Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Smart Factory solutions, the wiping robot is able to identify issues such as yarn breaks or parallel wiping processes and to independently offer solutions.

The wiping robot operates in a cross-line manner. Here, the wiping quality remains constant 24/7. The high wiping quality has a positive influence on both the stability of the overall process and on the yarn quality. The time saved between cleaning cycles is a further advantage: using the robots, the interval between two wiping processes can be extended by up to 25%. The considerable increase in the spinning process efficiency achieved by the wiping robot also has a positive impact on margins. For example, one customer deploying the wiping robot was able to reduce its production costs for the same yarn by more than 3%.

• Finnish coating and gelcoat manufacturer Finnester strengthens its activities in the D-A-CH region with AMAC

As of September 15th 2020, the Finland-based coating and gelcoat manufacturer Finnester Coatings Oy strengthens its activities in German speaking countries, the so-called D- A-CH region, comprising Germany, Austria and Switzerland with Dr. Michael Effing from AMAC.

Finnester is a pioneer in developing high-quality coatings and gelcoat for both urface spread as well as flame and thermal insulation of composite solutions in different fields of industries. Their portfolio comprises products based on Polyester coatings for fire and thermal protection as well as ceramifying polymers like HybridRED, compliant with the requirements of the standards e.g. EN45545-2. In
order to develop new business opportunities in the D-A-CH region for the endmarkets building and infrastructure, transportation, marine, industrial and electrical industries, Finnester is cooperating with AMAC to accelerate the process of locating suitable partnerships.

Ari Hokkanen, CEO of Finnester: “Finnester has developed unique high-quality coatings. The cooperation with AMAC will accelerate our growth ambitions and supports us in finding new business opportunities. We are happy to benefit from AMAC and Dr. Effing’s long-term experience as a pioneer in the composites industry and his high-quality network along the entire value chain.” Dr. Effing, CEO of AMAC GmbH confirms: “Fire-retardant coatings are very important to the composites industry in order to be successful especially in rail, fast ferry and building & infrastructure applications with their tough fire standards. The DACH region represents more than 30 % of the European market and is the key target for Finnester. I am looking forward to supporting Finnester with their unique offerings and connecting them with key players in the D-A-CH region.”