From the Sector

At this year's JEC World 2024 from 5 to 7 March, KARL MAYER GROUP will be exhibiting with KARL MAYER Technical Textiles and its STOLL Business

One focus of the exhibition will be non-crimp fabrics and tapes made from bio-based yarn materials for the reinforcement of composites.

"While our business with multiaxial and spreading technology for processing conventional technical fibres such as carbon or glass continues to do well, we are seeing increasing interest in the processing of natural fibres into composites. That's why we have a new product in our trade fair luggage for the upcoming JEC World: an alpine ski in which, among other things, hemp fibre fabrics have been used," reveals Hagen Lotzmann, Vice President Sales KARL MAYER Technische Textilien.

The winter sports equipment is the result of a subsidised project. The hemp tapes for this were supplied by FUSE GmbH and processed into non-crimp fabrics on the COP MAX 5 multiaxial warp knitting machine in the KARL MAYER Technical Textiles technical centre.

The STOLL Business Unit will be focussing on thermoplastic materials. Several knit to shape parts with a textile outer surface and a hardened inner surface will be on display. The double-face products can be made from different types of yarn and do not need to be back-moulded for use as side door panels or housing shells, for example. In addition, the ready-to-use design saves on waste and yarn material.

Panda Biotech announced that building construction is complete and the official commissioning process to bring its Panda High Plains Hemp Gin™ (the “Panda Hemp Gin”) project online began in early Q4. The commissioning process marks the final stage before beginning commercial operations in Q1 2024 at the 500,000 square foot Wichita Falls, Texas facility. The Panda Hemp Gin will process 10 metric tons of industrial hemp per hour to produce textile-grade fiber, hurd, short-fiber hurd mix, and a nutrient-rich co-product that will be pelletized. The facility is expected to be the largest hemp decortication center in the Western Hemisphere and among the largest in the world.

Using only renewable energy sources, the engineering and production process at the Panda Hemp Gin has been certified green by Mid-South Engineering Company, in accordance with the International Capital Market Association’s Green Bond Principles. Panda Biotech has also partnered with Oritain, a scientific traceability company, to bring the most traceable hemp grown 100 percent in the United States to market.

Additionally, Panda Biotech is actively signing contracts with producers to grow the hemp feedstock for the 2024 growing season, as well as purchasing hemp fiber that has already been harvested or processed. The company recently unveiled an unmatched pay-to-grow program for producers to begin growing Panda hemp. With up-front, guaranteed money and agronomy support, Panda producers also receive tested and proven seed at no cost, successfully mitigating the risk producers may assume and underscoring Panda’s commitment and promise to the farming community. The benefits of growing hemp are substantial, as it is an excellent rotational crop that remediates the soil and provides a competitive margin.

“Each piece of the Panda Hemp Gin production line, including the three miles of overhead pneumatic duct lines, refining, blending, mechanical cottonization, hurd bagging and storage, baling, and more, must be individually started, checked, balanced, and commissioned,” says Panda Biotech Executive Vice President Scott Evans. “Currently, all equipment is individually being brought online to be officially placed in service.”

In cooperation with testing provider Hohenstein, Under Armour is launching a new fiber-shed test kit. It will help textile companies along the supply chain to develop lower shed materials during product development. The companies carry out the test themselves in-house using the test kit or can commission Hohenstein as a testing service provider.

The kit is a one-off purchase, after which users can buy additional materials from project partner James Heal. By using the new kit, Under Armour can reliably assess the quality and shed rate of the materials from suppliers.

For Hohenstein customers, the test kit is a useful addition to their microplastics tests. It is a quick and relatively inexpensive preliminary test that ensures better early-stage results for the end product.

During the production, wear and laundering of synthetic and natural fabrics, fibre shedding occurs in varying degrees. Hohenstein and Under Armour expect that their test method will help the industry better understand and reduce its contribution to the microfibre problem.

“Until now, integrating fiber-shed testing into industry research and development activities has required a significant time and cost investment,” said Kyle Blakely, Senior Vice President of Innovation for Under Armour. “At Under Armour, we believe intervening early to mitigate shedding is critical, which is why our test method is designed to specifically address these time and cost barriers.”

The data and the information reported examine the performance relative to the companies Marchi & Fildi S.p.A. and Filidea S.r.l. during the year 1st January 2022 to 31st December 2022. In addition, with the aim of putting the data into a context of developments, a comparison with data pertaining to 2021 was also made.

Amongst the numerous data and insights provided by the analyses given in the Report, some relevant performance factors relating to environmental achievements emerge.

With reference to Marchi & Fildi, and in comparison to 2021, the year 2022 demonstrated:

• A unit reduction in water consumption of 57% and unit reduction of waste water of 19%
• A unit reduction in electric power consumption of 13%

An overall reduction in CO2 emissions (Scope I + Scope II) of 22% In the same period, for Filidea the following results are shown:

• A unit reduction in water consumption of 26%, unit waste water of 22%
• A reduction in unit natural gas consumption of 7%
• A reduction in unit electric power consumption of 14%
• An overall reduction in CO2 emissions (Scope I + Scope II) of 7%

These data offer quantitative feedback on the constant commitment to the optimisation of resources and use of production technologies with low energy impact, which the Group has adopted for years.

Massimo Marchi, Marchi & Fildi’s President, has this to say about the choice to invest in this form of reporting:
“The decision to write a Sustainability Report represents for us one of the elements which guide us towards the constant improvement of company performance with reference to ESG. This is one of the stages towards the formalisation of a strategic plan for the management of sustainability, a journey which the Group has been committed to for years and in which we believe 100%.”

The Textile & Fashion Forum Helsinki 2023, organized by Finnish Textile & Fashion and EURATEX, highlights the discourse on sustainable practices within the textile and fashion industry. This two-day event, scheduled for 26-27 October at the Little Finlandia event center in Helsinki, will include a day of curated company visits.

Finland’s leading textile and fashion forum will showcase the industry's pioneering companies and their pursuit of a sustainable and resilient future. With insightful discussions, inspiring speakers, and thrilling business cases, the event drives transformation and sets new benchmarks for the textile and fashion sector.

The Textile & Fashion Forum Helsinki 2023 will focus on critical industry themes. The transformation of the textile and fashion industry relies on three key pillars: the creation of different circular business models matching growth with sustainability, a green and digital transition where information technology is necessary to deliver sustainability, and scaling the business, as how start-ups can make a leap and big companies can evolve their growth strategies. These three themes will be discussed in depth during the event.

The speaker lineup, drawn from Finland, Europe and beyond, demonstrates the expertise connecting on this platform. Noteworthy figures include Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko, President & CEO of Marimekko; Kai Mykkänen, Minister of Climate and the Environment of Finland; Marcus Hartmann, Head of Public Affairs & Sustainability at H&M; Liljana K. Forssten, Range Strategist at IKEA; and Virginijus Sinkevičius, European Commissioner (on video).

The mission of Accelerating Circularity is to create new supply chains and business models to turn textile waste into mainstream raw materials. Accelerating Circularity has created a working group, the Alliance of Textile Chemical Recyclers (ACTR), to meet and address the textile industry with a common voice to facilitate accurate information on textile chemical recycling.

“We formed this collective to move chemical recycling technology forward, share common definitions, and address policies in a collaborative way to maximize the elimination of textile waste to landfills and incineration” explained Karla Magruder, Founder and President of Accelerating Circularity. “Chemical recycling technology has many benefits, including quality more similar to virgin fiber and the ability to recycle multiple times.”

ACTR plans to provide the industry with information on how textile chemical recycling can:

• offer solutions for diverting textile waste to landfill
• enable textile to textile recycling versus incineration/landfill
• provide sustainably sourced/circular materials
• support brand/retailers/producers in achieving their CO2 reduction targets
• provide long term price stability and consistent supply of raw materials versus virgin

Members of the Alliance include founding members Eastman, Lenzing, and The LYCRA Company, as well as key innovators Circ®, Sappi, Renewcell, Infinited fiber, Worn Again Technologies, Gr3n, CuRe Technology, and OnceMore® from Sodra.

As a first step, the ACTR (Alliance of Chemical Textile Recycling) is introducing a dictionary of common terms developed to educate the industry on the chemical recycling of textiles.

Leaders assembled at the renowned forum for sustainability in fashion to mobilise action and usher in a transformative phase for the industry.

Hosted in the Copenhagen Concert Hall, on 27-28 June, Global Fashion Summit convened over 1000 revered representatives from brands, retailers, NGOs, policy, manufacturers, and innovators to transform ambition into action. The Summit was presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), the non-profit organisation that is accelerating the transition to a net positive fashion industry, under the patronage of HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark.

This year’s theme ‘Ambition to Action’, galvanised participants to transform ambitions into concrete actions that can drive the industry towards more sustainable practices, both socially and environmentally. Under this premise, the event presented content experiences focused on tangible and evidence-based impact, with over half of the programme dedicated to educational and action-oriented business case studies.

This edition included more speakers and content than ever before, with the dynamic and action-orientated sessions spanning across four different stages. The Summit also facilitated more than 10 strategic roundtable meetings that brought together executives and policy makers for productive dialogues on how to address pressing sustainability issues and act accordingly. The content integrated the five priorities of the Fashion CEO Agenda, alongside critical challenges and tangible opportunities relating to some of the key forces that are shaping the fashion industry today: data, policy and storytelling.

Attendees heard from 137 speakers including HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark; Antoine Arnault, Image & Environment, LVMH Group; Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director & Founder, JW Anderson and Creative Director, Loewe; Virginijus Sinkevičius,  Commissioner for the Environment, Oceans and Fisheries, European Commission; Henriette Hallberg Thygesen, Chief Delivery Officer, Maersk; Aude Vergne, Chief Sustainability Officer, Chloé; Nicolaj Reffstrup, Founder, GANNI; Fanny Moizant, Co-Founder & President, Vestiaire Collective; Noel Kinder, Chief Sustainability Officer, Nike; Óscar García Maceiras, CEO, Inditex; Dr. Lewis Akenji, Managing Director, Hot or Cool Institute; Rachel Arthur, Advocacy Lead, Sustainable Fashion, United Nations Environment Programme; and many more.

Innovation Forum connected fashion companies with sustainable solution providers
This year’s Summit also presented an Innovation Forum, enabling small and large companies to meet with 26 sustainable solution providers – equipping them with the concrete tools to quickly turn words into meaningful actions. More than 350 facilitated business meetings between fashion companies and sustainable solution providers took place during the Summit.

Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition will take place on 27 September 2023, which will mark the second time the Summit has been hosted outside of Copenhagen in its 14-year history.

Carbios has been selected among the 22,000 start-ups in the French Tech ecosystem to represent French innovation at the 6th “Choose France” Summit.  “Choose France” is an international business summit dedicated to the attractiveness of France launched at the initiative of Emmanuel Macron, the President of the Republic. Only ten companies, including Carbios, have been chosen to exhibit their technologies at the Château de Versailles.  On this occasion, Carbios announces that it has joined the Coq Vert community launched by Bpifrance in partnership with ADEME^[1] and the Ministry of Ecological Transition, to connect with other environmentally committed business leaders and advance its international deployment.

“With INRAE^[2], we chose to highlight Carbios at the Choose France summit as a symbol of French economic dynamism,” comments Philippe Gassmann, Secretary General Choose France 2023 (French Treasury). ” With its innovative “Made in France” biotechnologies that bring plastic into the circular economy, Carbios illustrates the wealth of  innovation within the French cleantech ecosystem.  I thank Carbios for its ambassadorship for this ecosystem to the 200 foreign guests attending the 6th Choose France Summit with the theme: Investing for a sustainable future.”

“Carbios is honored to have been selected by the Elysée Palace for Choose France.  This international summit provides an opportunity for meetings between the President of the Republic, members of the Government and the leaders of major foreign and French companies to discuss France’s economic ambitions and attractiveness,” commented Emmanuel Ladent, Chief Executive Officer of Carbios. “Carbios is in the midst of a major industrial rollout, with a first plant planned in the Grand Est region, and the international commercial deployment of our processes.  We are very grateful for the French Government’s support at this strategic time for the company.”
(Emmanuel Ladent, CEO, and Alain Marty, Chief Scientific Officer, representing Carbios at Choose France)

The Coq Vert community
Launched by Bpifrance, in partnership with ADEME and the Ministry of Ecological Transition, this community brings together 2,000 members who are players in sustainable development and are convinced of the need to act for energy and ecological transition.

^[1] ADEME = The French Agency for Ecological Transition
^[2] INRAE = France’s National Research Institute for Agriculture, Food and Environment

Sustainable solutions provider Perstorp has added new corporate sustainability targets, for water and waste, to its sustainability strategy. Its long-term sustainability ambition is to become Finite Material Neutral, which involves water and waste, along with raw materials, energy and catalysts. In 2021 the company set its first 2030 targets, for greenhouse gas emissions (using approved science-based targets) and (eco) toxic impact. Now Perstorp has added new sustainability targets that will address its long-term ambition.

These new 2030 corporate targets (all measured using 2019 as the base year) are:

• 30% absolute reduction of freshwater consumption
• 30% absolute reduction of hazardous waste directed to disposal
• 30% absolute reduction of non-hazardous waste directed to disposal

"Fresh water consumption and waste are two areas of big importance in reducing our environmental impact and working toward increased circularity," says Anna Berggren, Vice President Sustainability at Perstorp Group. "Fresh water scarcity is already a fact around the world, and we have a responsibility to reduce our consumption and utilize alternative water sources. We must also minimize waste generation and find new circular solutions of reusing and recycling the waste streams into new products, either ourselves or so that a third party can use them as raw material. We have set ambitious and absolute sustainability targets, that are to be achieved regardless of production growth. To be able to reach these targets we have several large projects planned that will contribute significantly."

All Perstorp production plants use water for multiple purposes, including, for example: for cooling, as a solvent for chemical reactions, as a carrier for products, and as a heat-transfer medium. One way to reduce fresh water consumption is to purify and recycle wastewater. Perstorp sees this as an important core technology and is planning to invest in wastewater recycling projects at several of its production sites.

A key to reducing waste directed to disposal is to develop circular solutions that use waste streams as raw materials for new products. One example is Project Air, in which captured carbon dioxide together with residue streams from Perstorp's production plant in Stenungsund, Sweden, will serve as raw material for production of sustainable methanol that will replace all the virgin fossil methanol used by Perstorp in Europe.

Automotive supplier, Yanfeng has been awarded a second consecutive A−rating by Carbon Disclosure Project (CDP) for the group's global leadership in transparency and action on climate change in 2022. Nearly 15,000 companies were rated based on data which they submitted to the organization. Yanfeng also received an Environmental Leadership Award by CDP China

CDP is a non-profit organization which operates a global disclosure system to enable investors, companies, cities, states, and regions to manage their environmental impacts. Every year, several thousand companies worldwide are analyzed about their strategic approach to the challenges of climate change and their climate management activities are rated on the basis of a comprehensive list of criteria. CDP’s annual environmental disclosure and rating process is widely recognized as the gold standard for corporate environmental transparency.

Yanfeng improved its scores in value chain engagement and climate-related requirements for suppliers, as well as targets for increasing low-carbon energy consumption or production.
“As our company-wide target for carbon neutrality, we aim to achieve 100% of our total energy consumption from renewable energy sources by 2030,” said Gunnar Büchter, Vice President of Global Sustainability at Yanfeng. All European plants converted to renewable energy by the beginning of 2022, and other regions also increased their utilization of renewable energy sources. Significant progress has been made in China. By end of 2021 a total of 30% of energy came from renewable sources.