From the Sector

In the first quarter of 2025, orders for textile machinery recorded by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a sharp decline compared to the same period in 2024, down 29%. The index stood at 41.8 points (base year 2021=100).

The negative result reflects both a significant contraction in the domestic market and a pronounced slowdown abroad. In Italy, orders dropped by 57%, while foreign orders fell by 25%. The index for foreign markets stood at 43.3 points, while the domestic figure dropped to 30.5 points. The order backlog at the end of the quarter ensured 3.6 months of production.

The downturn also continues when compared to the previous quarter (October-December 2024), with overall orders decreasing by 15%.

Marco Salvadè, President of ACIMIT, commented: “The sector started 2025 on an even weaker footing than it ended 2024. On international markets, the deep uncertainty triggered by last year’s geopolitical tensions has been further worsened by the tariff decisions implemented by the Trump administration. In the US, orders remain at a standstill as the market awaits the next steps from the President. Some glimmers of hope come from the estimates of global export data for textile machinery in the first quarter: China, India, and Pakistan—key markets for technology suppliers—show signs of recovery compared to the same period in 2024.”

In Italy, the situation is even more critical, with the orders index at its lowest level, even surpassing the slump of 2020. “We need to look beyond 2025 and call on the Government to implement targeted, structural incentives for investments in capital goods, with simple procedures that allow companies to access them quickly”, Salvadè noted.

Swissmem textile machinery industry sector elects president and board: The Swiss Textile Machinery Association is the representative body for Switzerland’s providers of textile equipment, systems and services. Its general assembly on May 8 elected experienced industry leaders as president and board members.

The association’s new president is Davide Maccabruni, CEO of Uster Technologies AG. His role is to lead the board in defining strategies and key focus areas. Assessing the challenges facing the industry, Maccabruni states: “The Swiss textile machinery industry still holds unique strengths that can secure its success well into the future. To achieve this, however, we must focus on aligning our capabilities, working together, and supporting one another.”

A new member of the association board has also been elected. He is Martin Zürcher (Heberlein Technology AG), who joins Beat Meienberger (Benninger AG), André Imhof (Autefa Solutions Switzerland AG), Andreas Conzelmann (Jakob Müller AG) and Ralph von Arx (Retech AG), the latter taking on the role of vice-president.

Davide Maccabruni succeeds Ernesto Maurer, the association’s president for the past ten years. Maurer has been an active board member since 2011, becoming president in 2015. During his service, he has made a significant contribution to strengthening the innovative power and international visibility of the Swiss textile machinery industry.

The Swiss Textile Machinery sector was founded in 1940 and is the longest-established industry sector within Swissmem. It currently has 42 affiliated companies, including manufacturers of machines and components, and service providers, for the textile industry. The association supports its members in fostering innovation initiatives and education. A major focus is on joint market access campaigns, through a successful programme of international symposia. Recent events have been held in Mexico and the US, and another is planned for Morocco later this year.

Rieter has signed a definitive agreement to acquire Barmag from OC Oerlikon for an upfront equity purchase price of CHF 713 million. The acquisition will create a globally leading player in natural and manmade fibers, headquartered in Winterthur, Switzerland, and is highly complementary to Rieter’s short-staple fiber business.

Barmag is a provider of filament spinning systems used for manufacturing manmade fibers, texturing machines, BCF1) systems, staple fiber spinning and nonwovens solutions and – as an engineering services provider – offers solutions along the textile value chain. In the financial year 2024, the company generated sales of CHF 734 million with around 2 600 employees.

Barmag comprises the established product brands Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven. The main markets for the Barmag product portfolio are China, India, Türkiye and the United States of America. The innovative and technologically advanced products are developed in Remscheid and Neumünster (Germany) as well as Suzhou and Wuxi (China).

As fiber consumption is projected to rise, most of the growth is expected to come from manmade fibers. The increase of natural fibers such as cotton and linen is limited due to natural boundaries. Manmade fibers will help to meet expanding demand for clothing, technical and home textiles. The strategic acquisition of Barmag will transform Rieter into a leading supplier for converting natural and manmade fibers into yarn.

The transaction is fully in-line with Rieter’s strategy and follows previous acquisitions, where Rieter complemented its portfolio in short-staple fiber machinery and expanded its footprint in components and machinery for manmade fiber production. The combined platform allows to leverage the recovery of global filament and short staple fiber spinning markets and to reduce cyclicality due to diversification of end-markets. The acquisition will further enhance Rieter’s position in the important Asia-Pacific region and provide access to Barmag’s filament expertise, which will help to further scale Rieter’s own capabilities and improve digitization solutions and product sustainability.

Rieter’s largest shareholder, Peter Spuhler (c. 33% shareholding) is supportive of the transaction and committed to participating in the rights-issue pro-rata by exercising its subscription rights as well as investing additional capital through the non-pre-emptive capital raise. After the capital increase, PCS Holding AG is expected to retain a shareholding of c. 33%.

Additionally, Rieter’s second-largest shareholder, Martin Haefner (c. 10%), also supports the transaction and has committed to participating pro-rata in the rights-issue by exercising its subscription rights and investing additional capital through the non-pre-emptive capital raise.

Dilo Systems GmbH, a Germany-based manufacturer specializing in complete nonwoven lines, and Kansan Group, a Turkish manufacturer specializing in nonwoven converting lines, end-of-line solutions, and Wetlaid Nonwoven machinery, have signed a strategic partnership agreement to supply custom nonwoven lines. As part of this partnership, comprehensive solutions will be offered by integrating fiber preparation and carding equipment, wetlaid, hydroentanglement and needling lines, as well as converting and end-of-line equipment. Engineering work will be carried out by Dilo Systems GmbH as the main contractor.

The collaboration primarily focuses on specialized nonwoven markets, particularly for hygiene, medical, and technical applications. The production of specialized nonwovens consisting of short and long staple fiber layers is the goal. These nonwovens are typically made from cellulose pulp and carded materials. In hygiene and medical applications, short-cut cellulose materials play a critical role in absorbing and retaining liquids. When the fiber length drops below 12 mm, the faster flushability of cellulose material offers a significant advantage in terms of waste management.

Wetlaid pulp can be hydrodynamically shaped using headbox technology (flowlip, inclined wire), which can be designed according to demand.

Wetlaid products can be further processed with carded web layers and hydroentanglement, integrating into different production processes.

Kansan Materials has successfully established a production line capable of processing hybrid raw materials developed based on the latest hydrodynamic simulation calculations. This line is equipped with advanced software technologies that assist operators in managing production processes in a fully automated, computer-supported mode.

As the main contractor, Dilo Systems GmbH aims to enhance the efficiency of nonwoven production for the hygiene and medical sectors by integrating Kansan’s wet wipe converting lines and end-of-line equipment. In this scope, the integration of materials produced with Dilo’s “CycloPunch” and “MicroPunch” needling machines into Kansan’s wet wipe converting lines is planned. Kansan is a strong partner in this field, with its expertise and leading position in the industry.

This joint development process and marketing efforts lay an excellent foundation for offering complete lines that can produce carded and needle-punched, carded and hydroentangled, carded and wetlaid nonwovens, as well as combinations of these techniques.

With a vision of offering innovative and sustainable solutions in the nonwoven sector, this partnership aims to increase production efficiency while minimizing environmental impact. Dilo Systems GmbH and Kansan’s technical expertise provides faster, cost-effective production processes tailored to customer needs. Furthermore, solutions have been developed in line with sustainability goals, such as energy efficiency and the use of recyclable materials. This collaboration is designed to create new opportunities in global markets, particularly in the hygiene, medical, and technical sectors, while expanding our reach to a broader customer base.

As the Indian textile and apparel sector embraces digitisation, sustainability, smarter production and responsible manufacturing, Gartex Texprocess India emerges as a critical node in this narrative bringing together the textile and garment machinery manufacturers, denim mill owners, digital textile printing technology solution providers, as well as manufacturers of apparel fabrics, textile and textile processing machinery and more, who are set to unfold innovations. With 125+ participating companies, representing 300+ brands and growing participation from international countries, this edition will offer a panoramic view of the sectors next chapter.

India’s textile industry often referred to as the lifeblood of nations manufacturing economy, is on the cusp of a technology-led transformation. Leading this evolution is Gartex Texprocess India – Mumbai organised by Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd. The expo is a definitive sourcing and innovation platform growing with global participation and solutions for the future.

What sets this edition apart is its focused attention on technology integration, automation and responsible manufacturing – themes that are redefining how India produces, sources and innovates on the global textile map through its product showcase as well as curated knowledge sessions.

A global showcase:
Making headlines this year is the strong international participation especially from China, Italy, Japan, Korea, Singapore and a dedicated pavilion for Taiwan, along with the leading Indian companies on board. Displaying a wide range of products for the garment and textile manufacturing industry. A few international names include: EPSON, Kornit and MACPI International among others. Some will participate directly and some through their partners and distributors. This global representation is matched with a stellar Indian line-up featuring names such as Balaji Sewing Machines, DCC, EH Turel, Mexum, Pantone and Sky Enterprises amongst others.

Denim Takes Centre Stage:
With the backing of Denim Manufacturers Association, the Denim Show at Gartex Texprocess India is expected to bring together all the major denim manufacturers and mill owners from India under one roof. As Indian denim exports steadily rise and demand for eco-conscious denim production grows, the show provides a much-needed window into how this resilient segment is re-inventing itself with sustainability and style at its core.

Trims & Accessories:
Beyond denim, this edition places a sharp focus on innovative fabric solutions, trims, digital screen printing and accessories – with dedicated zones for the Fabrics and Trims shows and Screen-Print India - Textile.

With 25+ new entrants and expanding categories, the Mumbai edition will be a hotspot for denim designers, boutique owners, apparel brands and labels, garment manufacturers, dyeing and finishing companies, distributors and agents of textile and garment machinery and accessories, merchandisers and sourcing heads scouting for the latest in material and design and more.

As India marches towards becoming a global textile powerhouse, Gartex Texprocess India – Mumbai 2025 will serve as the ultimate confluence of technology, talent and trade, weaving together a stronger future for the Indian textile industry.

Gartex Texprocess India is a leading exhibition in the textile manufacturing technology with collocated show: The Denim Show’ and dedicated featured zones of ‘Fabrics and Trims Show’ and ‘Screen Print India – Textile’ making this a one-stop destination for the textile manufacturing.

The expo is jointly organised by MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd and Messe Frankfurt Trade Fair India Pvt Ltd. Gartex Texprocess India Mumbai and is scheduled from 22 – 24 May 2025 at Jio World Convention Centre, Mumbai, Maharashtra.