From the Sector

Archroma will introduce its new Super Systems+ concept and highlight product innovations at Techtextil 2024, being held in Frankfurt, Germany from April 23 to 26.

A highlight of Archroma’s participation in Techtextil, Super Systems+ are powerful end-to-end systems that combine fiber-specific processing solutions and intelligent effects. The Super Systems+ suite encompasses wet processing solutions that deliver measurable environmental impact from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value and longevity to the end product; and cleaner chemistries that eliminate harmful or regulated substances.

For textile partners to the automotive industry, Archroma is introducing DOROSPERS® KHF, a new range of high-lightfast disperse dyes that provide optimum build up on polyester microfiber, including artificial suede for car interiors.

For nonwoven applications in fields such as healthcare, hygiene and filtration, Archroma recommends APPRETAN® FFX6750, a new addition to its range of high-performance zero-formaldehyde acrylic copolymers, and APPRETAN® FFX1540.

APPRETAN® FFX1540 is a new APEO free and formaldehyde free self-crosslinking polymer, medium soft with very low tackiness, and strongly hydrophobic, developed for the chemical bonding of nonwovens and for the coating of technical textiles, where low water absorption and high-water tightness are required, combined with high durability in severe environment.

For workwear and uniforms that protect people under adverse conditions, Archroma solutions include HELIZARIN® ULTRA-FAST, for printing with pigment dispersions and metallic pigments, and the new ALBAFIX® ECO Plus wet fastness improver. Archroma’s PFC-free PHOBOTEX® R-ACE durable water repellent delivers excellent water repellence while preserving fabric quality and ensuring sustainability. Archroma has also expanded the revolutionary AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT range of resource-saving dyes with new colors.

Further solutions for active wear and workwear include the newly launched bio-based PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 durable water repellent product, which is PFAS free, formaldehyde free and crosslinker free, as well NYLOFIXAN® HFS, a new fixing agent for polyamide and blends that is fully compliant with the latest restrictions on bisphenol compounds.

Archroma is also launching ARKOPHOB® NTR-40 at Techtextil 2024. The company’s first crosslinker with an improved sustainability profile, its monomers are partially derived from renewably sourced, plant-based raw materials. Another new innovation is biocide-free OX20, an odor-neutralizing technology launched by Archroma in partnership with SANITIZED AG.

For home textiles, mills and brands can select ARKOFIX® NZW formaldehyde-free* resin for high whiteness and extraordinary product stability, with no yellowing during storage at elevated temperatures, even over a prolonged period of time. For a super-soft handle, the SILIGEN® EH1 is a vegan silicone macro-emulsion softener with 35% plant-based active content.

Two new research labs are being built by AkzoNobel at its Sassenheim site in the Netherlands to further propel the company’s product development.

Work is about to start on building a technology center for Powder Coatings, while a new polymer lab has just opened which will develop innovative resin technologies for all the company’s businesses.

The total investment in the Sassenheim site – AkzoNobel’s largest global R&D center – amounts to around €8 million. The facility already houses the biggest R&D teams in Europe for the company’s Decorative Paint and Automotive and Specialty Coatings businesses. The addition of the two new labs will help the company further build on its global reputation for product development focused on providing creative solutions for customers.

The recently opened polymer lab – part of the company’s Research organization – will accommodate 15 scientists. It will mainly focus on the development of more sustainable polymer technologies and new coatings to support AkzoNobel’s ambition to halve carbon emissions across the value chain by 2030.

AkzoNobel employs around 3,000 R&D professionals worldwide in 70 laboratories, with more than €1.25 billion having been spent on research and development over the last five years.

Jan Karnath (39), a nephew of Bernd Reifenhäuser (CEO) and Ulrich Reifenhäuser (CSO), is the first representative of the fourth generation to join the operational business of the Reifenhäuser Group. His start paves the way for the continuous development of the family business and reinforces the transformation from machine manufacturer to solution provider: As the company's first Chief Digital Officer, Karnath will henceforth be responsible for and steer the Group's digital transformation.

In his new position as Chief Digital Officer, Jan Karnath is responsible for the strategic and operational development of all Reifenhäuser units whose business model is based on digital products: The tech start-up RE: GmbH, which specializes in connecting entire production facilities, AR:DEL, Reifenhäuser's digital education and learning platform, and R-Cycle, the digital product passport for sustainable packaging. In addition, Karnath is responsible for the Group's overall digital strategy: he will continue to develop the portfolio of digital products and ensure that all relevant digital initiatives are integrated into strategic planning.

Jan Karnath has over 15 years of experience in the digital business. He studied Management in Vienna and Digital Transformation & Innovation at Stanford University. He then began his career at SAP and has since successfully led several digital companies as a board member and founder. Investors in these companies have included EQT and Porsche AG.

In recent years, Italian circular knitting machine manufacturer Santoni (part of the Lonati Group) and Groz-Beckert have worked together to develop a new self-cleaning knitting system for the INNOTAS circular knitting machine. The knitting system is also called INNOTAS and consists of the circular knitting machine needle SAN™ DUO and the corresponding sinker SNK DUO-OL.

Following various preliminary investigations, the go-ahead was finally given in January 2015 for the joint development of a self-cleaning system in the needle area with side-by-side needles and a low shank.

The circular knitting machine needle SAN™ DUO with the sinker SNK DUO-OL was developed to meet the desired requirements. In the knitting system, there are two needles in the needle channel and two sinkers in one sinker channel. The benefits became apparent in initial field trials with experienced end customers in 2016. In the following years, the knitting system was continuously analyzed and further optimized.

The double filling in the needle channel significantly reduces soiling. In addition, the further developed shape of the knitting system ensures that any yarn lint is automatically removed from the machine during the knitting process. This extends the cleaning interval, making work more time-efficient and increasing productivity.

Both the needle SANTM DUO and the sinker SNK DUO-OL are characterized by a particularly low shaft with a predetermined breaking notch. The low shank minimizes soiling, while the predetermined breaking groove enables controlled needle breakage in the event of wear at the desired point. This reduces errors in the knitting process and machine downtimes.

Victoria Beckham's new collection for Mango, which coincides with the brand’s 40th anniversary, will go on sale internationally on April 23th, 2024.
The collaboration is part of Mango’s new 2024-26 Strategic Plan Elevate lever, which aims to reinforce the company’s differential value proposition based on aspirationalism, quality and its unique style.

Mango is teaming up with Victoria Beckham to launch a new capsule collection, which will be available internationally on April 23, 2024. Victoria Beckham x Mango has been designed by Victoria Beckham and reflects the essence of the designer's eponymous label, considered the perfect blend of classic British luxury with a subtle contemporary twist, as well as the shared values of both fashion brands, such as quality and femininity.

The new collection, which coincides with Mango's 40th anniversary, is the latest in a series of collaborations with other brands, artists and talents including SIMONMILLER, Camille Charrière, and Pernille Teisbaek. It follows the latest edition in Mango’s Capsule collection, a collection of eventwear for woman differentiated by the quality of its materials and finishes, which was released in March 2024 after being launched in 2023.

Mango’s collaboration with Victoria Beckham is part of the new Strategic Plan 2024-26, which aims to generate total turnover of more than 4 billion euros by 2026 through a differentiated value proposition, strong expansion drive, and improving sales in existing stores and online channels, as presented by the company last March.

The collaboration supports Elevate, one of the core pillars of the Plan. Elevate focuses on promoting a differential value proposition in all lines through aspirationalism, quality and a unique style designed in Barcelona, with excellent customer service. Since its inception, Mango has a very clear DNA and its own design and style proposal, whose main attribute is a positioning of superior quality to its competitors.

Bemberg™, a brand of cupro fibre by Asahi Kasei Corporation, Japan, announces its collaboration with luxury couture label Anita Dongre to unveil the ‘Azure’ collection.

Anita Dongre, known for her timeless elegance and commitment to sustainability, has integrated Bemberg™ yarn into the ‘Azure’ collection, symbolizing a dedication to responsible fashion practices. Bemberg™ yarn, sourced from Asahi Kasei in Japan, embodies luxury and environmental responsibility.

The ‘Azure’ collection captures the serene essence of the sea, evoking the tranquil ebb and flow of waves against a backdrop of pristine skies. With soft hues and delicate color palettes, the collection introduces a fresh, breezy aesthetic, featuring flowy dresses, kaftans, and elegant sets designed to elevate the simplicity of spring-summer fashion.

With the aim to help the denim industry reduce the environmental impact of its wastewater and move towards circularity, Archroma, G-Star RAW and Advance Denim have renewed their joint commitment to the production of aniline-free denim apparel based on Archroma’s DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30.

Their joint aim is to produce high-quality denim in authentic blue shades without the aniline impurity carried through from the synthesis of standard synthetic indigo. In traditional denim production, this aniline remains bound with the indigo pigment on the fabric; the remaining aniline is discharged during the dyeing and washing process. This can be a problem because aniline is toxic to aquatic life and two-thirds of aniline waste currently ends up in wastewater discharge where it could potentially pollute waterways and the ocean.

Archroma developed DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 to answer this key challenge. A 30% pre-reduced indigo solution, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 makes it possible to produce indigo-dyed denim without aniline impurities throughout the process.

Easy to use with automated dosing, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 reduces the water needed for preparation, washing and wastewater treatment compared to indigo grains. It also reduces hazardous chemical consumption while allowing high reproducibility and creating the authentic and iconic deep indigo shades traditionally associated with denim.

G-Star RAW is working towards making 20% of its entire collection from Cradle to Cradle Certified® fabrics by 2025. Its partnership with Archroma and Advance Denim contributes to this goal, since the aniline-free DENISOL® holds a Gold Level Material Health Certificate from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute. DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 is also compliant with other eco-standards and the requirements of leading retailers and brands.

Advance Denim, G-Star RAW and Archroma have previously collaborated to launch collections based on Archroma’s EarthColors® technology, which upcycles plant waste from the herbal industry to create sustainable colorways.

At the upcoming SaigonTex, taking place from April 10th to 13th in Ho Chi Minh City, the KARL MAYER GROUP will present its innovations.

DThe KARL MAYER exhibition for warp preparation is entirely dedicated to sustainability. With BLUEDYE, an innovative machine is introduced, which ensures more sustainability and lower costs in the process of indigo dyeing. Thanks to innovative technological solutions, the amounts of water and chemicals used are significantly reduced. Additionally, less yarn waste is generated. Another innovation for more sustainability is CASCADE, a steam and condensation system that requires significantly less steam in the drying process of sizing and indigo dyeing plants by using a solution for energy recycling that is protected against imitation.

For the warp knitting sector, the group of companies presents its latest technological developments. Highlights include a digital solution from KM.ON for optimizing production management (DPM), innovations for enhancing performance in the HKS segment, and a double raschel machine that enables unique creative multi-color designs in spacer textiles with more colour and new Jacquard techniques.

"Vietnam is a growing market for textile production, which is gaining importance especially for major international sports brands," says Eddy Ho, Senior Sales Manager at KARL MAYER.
The sales professional expects a large number of visitors, especially from Vietnam, China, Taiwan, and South Korea. SaigonTex is one of the most important textile machinery exhibitions in East Asia, located in close proximity to production centres. Vietnam is, in turn, the second most important market for the KARL MAYER GROUP after China. It benefits from increasing foreign direct investments in textile production from China, Taiwan, and South Korea.

The CEO of SGL Carbon SE, Dr. Torsten Derr, informed the Chairman of the Supervisory Board today that he will not extend his contract, which expires on May 31, 2025. Dr. Derr will continue his duties until the new CEO is appointed, at the latest until May 31, 2025.

“SGL Carbon is once again a strong and stable company whose profitable development I will continue to work on with all my strength until the last day. But even without me, my colleague on the Board of Management, Thomas Dippold, and the team will continue to develop the company successfully. The last almost four years have always been the achievement of the entire SGL team. SGL Carbon is now sailing in stable waters and my transformation work will therefore be completed shortly,” explains Dr. Torsten Derr.

“We are grateful to Dr. Derr for talking to us early on and in a spirit of trust. This will allow us to take our time in arranging his succession. SGL Carbon can look back on three successful financial years, is financially strong and relies on a broad-based management team that continues to drive forward the expansion of the business in strong growth markets. In our appreciative discussions, Dr. Derr has promised to complete all important projects with his usual commitment until the handover of the CEO position,” says Prof. Dr. Frank Richter.

The Supervisory Board will immediately begin the search for a successor to Dr. Torsten Derr.

• Three out of four business units with record sales and results
• Carbon Fibers business weighs on the Group's profitability
• Group sales of €1,089.1 million (-4.1%) and adjusted EBITDA of €168.4 million (-2.5%) in a difficult market environment
• Sales and earnings forecast for 2023 achieved despite drop in demand from key market
• 2024 further capacity expansion in graphite components for silicon carbide-based semiconductors

In fiscal year 2023, SGL Carbon achieved the sales and earnings targets set at the beginning of the year despite the drop in demand from the important wind market and an increasingly challenging economic environment. Group sales decreased slightly by €46.8 million (minus 4.1%) to €1,089.1 million (previous year: €1,135.9 million). At € 168.4 million, adjusted EBITDA, a key performance indicator for the Group, was also down slightly (minus 2.5%) compared to the previous year (€172.8 million) but was clearly within the forecast range for 2023 of €160 to 180 million.

While the positive sales development of the Graphite Solutions (+€53.5 million to €565.7 million), Process Technology (+€21.6 million to €127.9 million) and Composite Solutions (+€0.8 million to €153.9 million) business units had a positive effect, the Carbon Fibers business unit had a negative impact on Group sales with a sales decline of €122.3 million to €224.9 million.

Outlook
The global economy will continue to face comparatively high interest rates and subdued growth prospects in 2024. Tighter financing conditions, weak trade growth and a decline in business and consumer confidence are also weighing on the economic outlook. In addition, heightened geopolitical tensions are contributing to increased uncertainty.

SGL Carbon expects different developments in our key sales markets in 2024. The most important sales and earnings driver will be demand for specialty graphite components for the semiconductor industry. In contrast, all indicators currently suggest that demand for carbon fibers for the wind industry will remain weak in 2024 and that the Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit will therefore continue to record operating losses. Even if demand picks up, SGL Carbon assumes that Carbon Fibers will require additional resources to make the most of market opportunities. With this in mind, teh company announced on February 23, 2024, that they are reviewing all strategic options for Carbon Fibers. These also include a possible partial or complete sale of the business unit.

SGL Carbon's sales forecast for the financial year 2024 takes all four operating business units into account, as the company is only at the beginning of evaluating the strategic options for CF. In line with the assumptions outlined, SGL Carbon is therefore expecting Group sales at the previous year's level (2023: €1,089.1 million).

In the earnings forecast, SGL Carbon has taken into account underutilization of production capacity in the Carbon Fibers business unit and the associated high idle capacity costs. The projected operating loss of CF will have a negative impact on the adjusted EBITDA of the SGL Carbon Group in 2024. Due to the expected positive development of Graphite Solutions, SGL Carbon anticipates an adjusted EBITDA of between €160 million and €170 million for fiscal year 2024, taking into account all four operating business units. Should the process of reviewing all strategic options for the CF business unit result in a sale, the forecast of adjusted EBITDA in 2024 would be between €180 - 190 million.