From the Sector

Stahl, a leader in speciality coatings and treatments for flexible substrates, announces the launch of its new visual brand identity, marking an important step in Stahl's strategic journey.

This transformative initiative marks the next step in Stahl's strategic journey, aligning the company’s visual brand identity with its purpose and strategic direction. In recent years, Stahl has been evolving its positioning and offering to meet the changing needs of its customers and markets and to drive the next phase of its growth. In particular, the rebranding project follows the recent acquisition of Stahl Packaging Coatings (formerly ICP Industrial Solutions Group) as well as the launch of Stahl’s new purpose: Touching lives, for a better world. The purpose encapsulates the company's commitment to making a positive impact on the world, reflecting not only Stahl’s proud heritage, but also its future influence as a leader in speciality coatings and treatments for flexible substrates.

Stahl has also introduced a new colour palette to help visualise and differentiate its activities and its approach to sustainability and other strategic topics.

2024 is a turning point for the European textiles and clothing industry: From 6 to 9 June 2024, European citizens will vote for a new European Parliament and, based on the results, a new European Commission will be formed. In view of this important election, EURATEX publishes a Manifesto, presenting 15 requests which will help to ensure a competitive European textiles and clothing industry.

The textile and apparel industry is making a substantial contribution to European wealth, jobs and growth. Europe counts 192,000 companies employing 1.3 million workers with a turnover of €167 billion and over €67 billion of exports. Entrepreneurship should be recognised as the foundation for a competitive textile industry, offering high quality and sustainable products, based on innovation, creativity and design. European policy makers should recognise such role to textiles and apparel companies and have an open dialogue to create better framework conditions to operate in the internal and global markets.

To realise that vision, the industry and policy makers need to work together on a mix of policy measures and initiatives, which are coherent and offer a transparent and predictable framework for our companies, and make them more resilient and competitive.

These policies should focus around four points:

Develop and implement a “smart” EU industrial policy
Europe should create policies which enhance competitiveness, instead of creating administrative burdens. To EURATEX, each new piece of legislation should undergo a “competitiveness test” to critically look at the impact of the new rules. Europe should also create a favourable environment to promote education and jobs in the industry. The EU textile industry currently employees 1,3 million people, 30% of which is above 50 years old. A critical bottleneck for the textile industry is to attract (young) people and make sure these people have the right set of skills, to operate in a changing textile ecosystem. EURATEX also asks the EU to invest in innovation and digitalisation as they are key to the European competitive advantage. Not only, as the last years have proved, Europe should provide companies with access to sustainable energy at lower prices.

No sustainability without competitiveness
The EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles is pushing our sector towards new business models with a lower environmental footprint. To realise that ambition, no less than 16 regulatory proposals are on the table, each of them with a different timetable, managed by different departments of the European Commission. EURATEX is committed to sustainability, but asks for economic realism. This set of new regulations needs to be coherent, enforceable, feasible and applicable for SMEs, and not push textile companies out of the market. Moreover, some member states are moving forward faster and some legislations will be decided at national level, creating fragmentation of the market. Such scenarios will hamper Europe and its possibilities to grow.

Ensure free and fair trade
With $224 billion in sold merchandise, Europe is the second major world exporters of textiles and clothes after China ($321 billion). It is therefore important that the global market should be open, free and fair for our industry to continue to thrive. Besides the support to FTAs in general, EURATEX wants to emphasise that all trade agreements should offer effective market access for EU companies and a level playing field in these markets. A free and open market should go hand in hand also with protection against free riders. The EU must always consider enforcement and enforceability when making new laws; it should also take action together with the member states for a better coordination with harmonised criteria for action among Customs Authorities.

Incentivise the Demand for sustainable textiles
Sustainable textile products typically come at a premium price, making it difficult for many consumers and buyers to purchase such products. Many surveys across Europe confirm that around 50% of interviewees do not purchase sustainable fashion products and the main reason is price. EURATEX believes that, to create a demand and help consumers to buy a (genuine) sustainable textile product, there should be standard requirements and fiscal incentives. Public authorities should also implement green public procurements, by increasing the importance of sustainability criteria in their evaluation grids.

EURATEX welcomes the unanimous vote in support of the new rules of origin under the PEM Convention, as a historic achievement. Facilitating trade and investments in the “PanEuroMed” region (covering 27 EU member states and 24 partner countries in the neighbourhood region)¹ is top priority region for the EU, as trade with these countries accounted for €677 billion in 2023. For the EU textile and clothing sector, the region represents 35% of its exports and 21% of its imports.
 
In 2013 the European Commission adopted a package of proposals aimed at increasing trade between the European Union and neighbouring countries in the Pan-Euro-Mediterranean (PEM) region. The proposal introduced modernised rules of origin of the PEM convention, lifting the prohibition of duty-drawback and introducing the principle of “full cumulation”.

Today, after ten years of intense negotiations which EURATEX supported, the European Commission reached a full and final agreement with all PEM partners. This is a landmark achievement that will unlock the full potential of the Euro-Mediterranean area as the biggest and most integrated region of advanced manufacturing and trading of sustainable textiles and clothing. The rules adopted today will accelerate the integration of T&C supply chains and boost T&C production and trade within the region, both in the East and Southern borders of the EU. In a moment when companies are looking at moving their production from Asia to nearby, like-minded and more reliable countries , it is very timely to have the PEM Convention implemented.

EURATEX’s President, Mr Alberto Paccanelli, commented: “This is a strategic trade deal that can help European companies recover from the multiple crisis which we face since 2020”. He continued “We call on the European Union to not stop here, but keep up the efforts to secure trade deals that are good for European companies and their competitive position in the world. The next objective should be the adoption of the EU-Mercosur Agreement and a conclusive settlement of all trade disputes with the United States”.    
 
According to Director General Dirk Vantyghem, “today’s unanimous vote in favour of the modernised PEM rules is good news for our industry.. We should now engage with these partner countries to fully exploit the potential of these new rules. EURATEX is ready to engage in an industrial dialogue with the companies from the PEM Countries to facilitate their transition to the new framework”.

¹ The PanEuroMed contracting parties are: the EU, the EFTA States (Switzerland, Norway, Iceland and Liechtenstein), the Faroe Islands, the participants in the Barcelona Process (Algeria, Egypt, Israel, Jordan, Lebanon, Morocco, the territories of West Bank and Gaza, Syria, Tunisia and Turkey), the participants in the EU's Stabilisation and Association Process (Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Republic of North Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, Kosovo), the Republic of Moldova, Ukraine.

• Revenue of US$3.9B, a decline of 1% QoQ and 20% YoY
• EBITDA of US$324M, an increase of 1% QoQ and a decrease of 37% YoY
• Operating cash flows of US$410M
• Net Operating Debt to Equity of 0.97x
• EPS of THB 0.00

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) reported stable third-quarter earnings as the company’s management focuses on conserving cash and improving competitiveness to bolster performance in a continued period of weakness in the global chemical industry.

Indorama Ventures achieved EBITDA of $324 million in 3Q23, an increase of 1% QoQ and a decline of 37% YoY, impacted by a weak economic environment, geopolitical tensions, and continued post-pandemic disruptions in global markets. Sales volumes dropped 5% from a year ago to 3.6 million tons as China recovers from the pandemic more slowly than expected and an extended period of destocking in the manufacturing and chemical sectors continues to normalize from unprecedented levels last year.

Management continues to focus on conserving cash, realizing efficiency improvements, and optimizing the company’s operational footprint to boost profitability. These efforts resulted in positive operating cash flow of US$410 million in the quarter, positive free cash flow of $79 million year to date, and room for further reductions in working capital going forward. The company’s AA- rating was maintained by TRIS in the quarter, with a stable outlook. 

The company expects the operating environment to improve in 2024 as customer destocking continues to ease across all three of Indorama Ventures’ segments. The ramp up of PET and fibers expansion projects operations in India and the U.S. will also contribute to increased volumes.  

Combined PET posted EBITDA of $146 million, a 25% decline QoQ, amid historically low benchmark PET margins, increased feedstock prices in Western markets, and lingering effects of destocking. Integrated Oxides and Derivatives (IOD) segment posted a 27% rise in EBITDA to $119 million QoQ, supported by strong MTBE margins in the Integrated Intermediates business. The Integrated Downstream portfolio’s profitability was impacted by destocking, inflationary pressures, and margin pressure from imports. Fibers segment achieved a 140% increase in EBITDA to $48 million QoQ as Lifestyle volumes grew in key markets in Asia, and the Mobility and Hygiene verticals benefited from management’s focus on optimizing operations and refocusing the organization. 
 

Since the rapid growth brought about by the pandemic, the technical textiles and nonwovens markets are stabilising towards a new normal – one in which technological innovation, sustainable development, and intelligent manufacturing are the most sought-after qualities. Held from 19 – 21 September 2023 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, the fair amplified this new industry direction, both through its fringe programme and across the booths of the 40,000 sqm show floor. With a nearly one-third increase from 2021, 467 exhibitors representing 13 countries and regions engaged a significantly international visitor flow, numbering 15,542 total visits from 52 countries and regions. Suppliers showcased up-to-date products for multiple application areas, with various equipment, technical textiles and nonwovens for agriculture, automotive, protective apparel, and medical and hygiene especially prevalent.

Speaking at the fair’s close, Ms Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, had an optimistic outlook for the future of the sector: “Sustainability and innovation often go hand-in-hand, and walking through the various halls, zones, and pavilions these past few days the evidence for this was widespread. With environmental protection more important than ever, and buyers across application areas increasingly sourcing eco-friendly solutions, our exhibitors were well-placed to meet that demand. This fair is consistently at the leading edge of technological progress, and with the global and domestic markets showing signs of improving further, we are already looking forward to what we can offer at next year’s edition.”  

With many overseas exhibitors making a comeback, this year’s fair was marked by the return of the Taiwan Pavilion and the 40-exhibitor strong European Zone. Beyond the international areas, domestic pavilions were organised by Beijing Guanghua, China Hang Tang Group, Funing, Jiujing, Shenda, Tiantai, Xianto, and Xiqiao, showcasing nonwovens for various sub-sectors, including filtration and medical. Valuable insights were exchanged at multiple fringe events, including the 11th China International Nonwovens Conference, the Advanced Technical Textiles Industry Chain Synergistic Innovation Development Forum, various events covering marine textiles and rope netting, and the “Kingsafe Dangs” National University Students' Nonwovens Development and Applications Showcase. Visitors, meanwhile, were pleased with the innovation on show across the entire platform.

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) presented a new online film series: Fashion Redressed. Produced by BBC StoryWorks Commercial Productions, the captivating series intends to inspire the industry to take action to transform the way we produce and consume fashion.

Every day we express ourselves through our clothes. Encompassing cultures, personalities, traditions and beliefs, fashion is core to how we present ourselves to the outside world. But our consumption of fashion and clothing is pushing our planet and societies to its limits. Fashion trendsetters and pioneers are working to meet this challenge head-on with game-changing ideas. At the heart of this is the question: how can we keep expressing all we do through fashion, but without hurting the planet?
 
Focused on finding the answers, Fashion Redressed, comprises multiple films that showcase organisations from across the fashion and textile industries. Launched on a BBC.com microsite, the series spotlights the innovations across the world that are influencing the new seasons of fashion, featuring a collection of stories that depict tailor-made solutions to fit us and our planet.
 
The 11 self-contained branded films showcase a range of participants including: eBay, Elk, The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Vestiaire Collective, Spinnova, Lenzing, Faherty, FarFetch, Waste2Wear, Colorifix and Forest Stewardship Council. Each film focuses on a bespoke solution that can benefit us and the planet. From the scientist taking inspiration from silk-spinning spiders in Helsinki and the duo taking a deep dive into the genetic makeup of colour in Cambridge, to the pre-loved clothes being brought to life on a global platform from Paris and the importance of cultural appreciation in Arizona, fashion gathers the most creative and innovative minds. This series expresses the dynamism and creativity of the fashion world, spotlighting the people weaving change into the fibres of fashion and those who are working to find the stylish side of a more sustainable sector.
 
The series was unveiled ahead of GFA’s landmark event – Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition – on 27 September. The forum will bring together fashion stakeholders for agenda-setting discussions and productive meetings on critical environmental and social issues.

• Sales up 1.9% year-on-year to €560.5 million with stable adjusted EBITDA of €88.0 million
• Strong business performance of the Graphite Solutions, Process Technology and Composite Solutions businesses
• Sales and earnings decline at Carbon Fibers due to weakness of wind market
• Impairment at Carbon Fibers of €44.7 million

Despite the increasingly difficult economic environment, SGL Carbon was able to increase sales in H1 2023 from €549.8 million in the previous year to €560.5 million. Adjusted EBITDA (EBITDApre) remained almost unchanged at €88.0 million (H1 2022: €87.9 million). The expected good business performance of the Graphite Solutions business unit and the better-than-expected sales and earnings development of Process Technology and Composite Solutions compensated the drop in demand in Carbon Fibers.

In particular, the Graphite Solutions (GS) business unit contributed to the stable development of the Company with a 15.3% increase in sales to €280.6 million (H1 2022: €243.4 million) and a 20.6% improvement in adjusted EBITDA to €65.1 million (H1 2022: €54.0 million). GS benefited especially from the high demand of the semiconductor industry. The semiconductor and LED market segment now accounts for around 45% of GS revenue (H1 2022: around 35%).

With a 30.9% increase in sales to €64.4 million (H1 2022: €49.2 million) and a significant rise in adjusted EBITDA from €4.1 million to €11.9 million, the business performance of Process Technology (PT) was significantly above the original planning. Composite Solutions (CS) also reported a higher-than-forecast sales increase of 14.4% to €79.6 million in H1 2023 (H1 2022: €69.6 million) and an improvement in adjusted EBITDA of 26.8% to €12.3 million (H1 2022: €9.7 million). By contrast, the business performance of the Carbon Fibers (CF) unit was not in line with expectations, with a 28.9% decline in sales to €125.1 million (H1 2022: €176.0 million) and a 78.4% drop in earnings to €6.1 million (H1 2022: €28.2 million).

An important market segment for the Carbon Fibers business unit is the wind industry. Demand for carbon fibers for the wind industry has declined sharply since the beginning of the year. According to current estimates, the expected recovery in demand in H2 2023 will not materialize. SGL Carbon expects customer demand from the wind industry to pick up in 2024.

As already announced in the ad hoc release of July 24, 2023, an impairment loss of €44.7 million was recognized on the assets of Carbon Fibers as of June 30, 2023.

Results situation
SGL Carbon's adjusted EBITDA (EBITDApre) remained almost stable in a half-year comparison at €88.0 million (H1 2022: €87.9 million). Due to the lack of demand from wind industry, CF's production capacity utilization decreased and idle capacity costs weighed on adjusted EBITDA. By contrast, higher margins from product mix and volume effects in the other three business units had a positive impact on adjusted EBITDA.

Non-recurring items and one-off effects not included in adjusted EBITDA totaled minus €46.9 million in the first half of 2023, of which €44.7 million resulted from an impairment loss in the CF business unit.

In addition to the above-mentioned effects and nearly unchanged depreciation and amortization of €29.1 million (H1 2022: €28.9 million), the decline in EBIT resulted in particular from the impairment loss already described (€44.7 million). After €69.6 million in H1 2022, EBIT amounted to €12.0 million in the reporting period.

Taking into account the slightly improved financial result of minus €15.8 million (H1 2022: minus €16.6 million), consolidated net income for the first six months of the current financial year amounted to minus €10.0 million, compared to €48.8 million in the first half of the previous year.

Net financial debt and equity
To complete its refinancing, SGL Carbon issued convertible bonds with a volume of €118.7 million in June 2023 and drew an existing term loan facility of €75 million in July 2023, which was used together with cash of the Company on July 28, 2023 to repay the corporate bond (outstanding as of June 30, 2023: €237.4 million). Accordingly, cash and cash equivalents increased to €310.5 million as of June 30, 2023 (€227.3 million as of December 31, 2022) and financial debt temporarily increased to €480.4 million (€398.1 million as of December 31, 2022). Net financial debt remained nearly unchanged at €169.9 million as of June 30, 2023 (Dec. 31, 2022: € 170.8 million).

Despite the impairment loss of €44.7 million in Carbon Fibers, shareholders' equity amounted to €565.2 million as of June 30, 2023, only slightly lower than at the end of 2022 (Dec. 31, 2022: €569.3 million). This corresponds to an equity ratio of 36.1% (Dec. 31, 2022: 38.5%).

During the second quarter of 2023, the orders index for textile machinery, as compiled by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, dropped significantly compared to 2022 April – June 2022 period (-30%). In absolute terms, the index stood at 85.1 points (basis 2015=100).

This drop is the result of a reduction in the collection of new orders recorded by manufacturers both domestically and on foreign markets. The decrease in orders in Italy amounted to 21%, whereas a 31% downtrend was observed abroad. The absolute value of the index on foreign markets settled at 81.9 points, while in Italy it stands at 117.2 points. New orders for the second quarter amounted to 4.1 months of guaranteed production. ACIMIT’s data also shows that the use of production capacity by Italian manufacturers was 70% for the first half of 2023. This percentage is expected to remain stable for the second half of the year.

ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè stated that, “The orders index for the second quarter elaborated by our Economics Department clearly shows a decline in new orders both in Italy and abroad compared to the previous year. The decline that usually precedes an event such as ITMA, the international textile machinery exhibition held last June in Milan, however, is part of a negative trend that has been going on for several quarters”.

Uncertainty appears to be weighing heavily especially on markets abroad, where foreign trade statistics updated to the first quarter of 2023 are marked by a slackening in Italian sales in some important reference markets, such as Turkey, China, the United States and Pakistan.

Salvadè added that, “Feedback from over 400 Italian companies that took part in ITMA is positive. It’s now necessary for the many contacts made during the event to materialize and for the demand for machinery in the main textile machinery markets to resume a path towards growth.”

With total sales of EUR 1,543 million, generated by over 30 production and sales units in Europe, Asia, and America, Radici Group closed its 2022 financial year with slight growth over 2021. EBITDA reached EUR 157 million in 2022, and net income for the year was EUR 80 million.

“We are moderately pleased with the 2022 figures,” Angelo Radici, president of RadiciGroup, commented. “Despite an unpredictable and challenging year, we were able to achieve positive results. Although the rise in energy costs began to be felt in January, we managed to maintain our position in the first three months of the year due to a significant increase in demand. From the second quarter onwards, the European market experienced a significant slowdown due to the outbreak of war in Ukraine, which exacerbated the already soaring costs of energy and raw materials. The situation was completely out of hand and made worse by the fact that some raw materials were not available. This created significant challenges for us, especially in the chemical sector. We even had to stop operations at our Novara plant in the latter part of the year. Products similar to ours in the nylon supply chain from China and the US were being sold at a price lower than our variable cost.”

The president continues: “At Group level, our internationalisation strategy helped us mitigate geopolitical risks in various countries. As a result, we were able to offset the challenges in the European chemicals and textile markets by leveraging our global presence in High Performance Polymers, where our numbers have held strong. As we began 2023, we regained our footing. However, the global economic and industrial scenario for the rest of the year remains highly uncertain, and forecasts are notably cautious.”

Even in these difficult times, the Group has continued to invest. In 2022, the High Performance Polymers Business Area completed the acquisition in India of the engineering plastics branch of Ester Industries Ltd, a listed company. Additionally, it began installing two new production lines in Mexico and Brazil, and confirmed plans to install a new extrusion line at the Villa d’Ogna production site in the province of Bergamo. These choices align with the Group’s goal of enhancing its worldwide presence and boosting competitiveness in high-potential growth markets. In a year where energy and raw material costs were certainly problematic, operating in geographically diverse markets and with varied applications proved to be an important tool in addressing the challenges. In this vein, a new production site spanning over 36,000 square metres has recently been inaugurated in China. The move is aimed at doubling the production capacity in line with the market’s growth expectations.

Extending the time horizon to 2018-2022, the Group has invested over EUR 277 million to enhance the competitiveness of its companies, implement Best Available Techniques, improve energy efficiency, reduce emissions, and conduct research and development activities aimed at introducing sustainable processes and solutions. These efforts include the research and development activities of Radici InNova, which are heavily focused on the circular economy.

From 9 to 11 August 2023, IFCO, Istanbul Fashion Connection will be held for the fourth time at the Istanbul Expo Center at 6 Halls. The fashion fair is organised by ITKIB Fairs, a subsidiary of Istanbul Apparel Exporter's Association, the umbrella organisation of the Turkish fashion and apparel industry.

IFCO has developed into a hub for fashion enthusiasts, designers, buyers and trendsetters and has established itself as an important international platform for the global fashion industry. IFCO brings together around 400 exhibitors from all product groups of the apparel and fashion industry under one roof in six clearly structured halls: womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, denim, sportswear, evening and occasion wear, bridal wear, lingerie, hosiery, leather and fur, shoes and accessories.

From high-end tailoring to streetwear and sustainable fashion, the fair will present a wide range of styles and trends. IFCO Brands present market leaders such as İpekyol, Climber, Damat, Kiğılı, B&G Store, Lufian, Jakamen, NaraMaxx, Giovane Gentile and Lee Cooper using IFCOto further expand their international network.

THE CORE ISTANBUL, successfully launched at IFCO in February, once again features a fascinating mix of established and emerging important Turkish designerswith their creative and innovative creations.

One focus of the fair will be the topic of sustainability. Companies will show their innovations. Ekoteks, the association's sustainability laboratory, supports the development of sustainable production and will also have a stand at IFCO to present the latest developments in this area.

The extensive supporting program with fashion shows and trend zones inspires visitors with the latest fashion trends and styles, while the seminars and workshops address current topics in the fashion industry such as digital transformation, smart clothing, technical textiles and sustainability.

30,000 visitors from more than 100 countries are expected at the upcoming IFCO, mainly from the EU, UK, Eastern Europe, CIS, North Africa, Middle East and the USA. The show also offers networking events, such as B2B Speed Dating, which brings together fashion designers, brands, manufacturers, buyers and industry experts to exchange ideas and forge potential business relationships. This is an important aspect of the fair that has helped to position Istanbul Fashion Connection as a key meeting place for the fashion industry.