From the Sector

For the seventh time since 2017, the Discover National Fibre Initiative is inviting entries for the ‘DNFI Innovation in Natural Fibres Award’. The purpose of the DNFI Innovation in Natural Fibres Award is to raise awareness of exciting work involving natural fibres, and to help raise the profiles of leading researchers so as to enhance opportunities for commercial application of such work.

The DNFI Award 2023 will be judged in three categories: Innovative products/components or applications, innovative processes/procedures, research and science.
The evaluation criteria are: outstanding scientific work and technical feasibility, the extent of improvement or effectiveness of the innovation compared to existing products or processes in which the innovative product or process has been implemented and the potential for opening up new markets or sectors for products made from natural fibres.

Candidates for the DNFI Innovation in Natural Fibres Award 2023 are requested to send the application with the appropriate submission form by email.

Closing date for applications is 8 September 2023.

At the Annual General Meeting of Autoneum Holding Ltd on 24th March 2023, a clear majority of the shareholders approved the introduction of a capital band in the amount of approximately CHF 100 million net proceeds to finance the acquisition of Borgers Automotive. The proposal to waive the payment of a dividend for the 2022 financial year in view of the lower net result was also approved. In addition, Board member Rainer Schmückle as well as CEO Matthias Holzammer were given a farewell.

221 shareholders attended today’s Annual General Meeting of Autoneum Holding Ltd in Winterthur. 66.48 percent of the share capital was represented.

The shareholders approved the Annual Report, the Annual Financial Statements and the Consolidated Financial Statements for 2022. The proposal of the Board of Directors to waive the payment of a dividend for the financial year 2022 due to the lower net result was also approved by the Annual General Meeting.

In addition, the shareholders of Autoneum Holding Ltd granted discharge to all members of the Group Executive Board and the Board of Directors by a large majority of votes.

Chairman Hans-Peter Schwald and the other members of the Board of Directors Liane Hirner, Norbert Indlekofer, Michael Pieper, Oliver Streuli and Ferdinand Stutz were confirmed in office for another year. Hans-Peter Schwald, Norbert Indlekofer, Ferdinand Stutz and Oliver Streuli were re-elected to the Compensation Committee.

The consultative vote on the 2022 remuneration report was approved by 85.55%. The proposals for the remuneration of the Board of Directors and the Group Executive Board for the 2023 financial year as well as the other proposals were also approved by a large majority.

With 99.03%, a clear majority of the shareholders approved a capital band authorizing a capital increase of approximately CHF 100 million net proceeds. The purpose of the capital increase is to partially finance the acquisition of the automotive business of the Borgers Group announced by Autoneum on January 9, 2023. The Annual General Meeting also approved the other proposals of the Board of Directors for partial amendments to the Articles of Association.

Rainer Schmückle did not stand for re-election. He had been Vice Chairman of the Board of Directors, Chairman of the Audit Committee and member of the Strategy and Sustainability Committee since Autoneum became independent in 2011. CEO Matthias Holzammer, who will leave Autoneum for family reasons, was also bid farewell.

At the same time, Hans-Peter Schwald welcomed the new CEO Eelco Spoelder, who will take over the management of the Group from Matthias Holzammer on March 27, 2023: "With Eelco Spoelder, Autoneum gains an accomplished leader with many years of experience in the automotive supply industry. At Faurecia and previously at Continental, Mr. Spoelder has successfully proven that he can ensure strategic continuity and operational excellence even in a difficult market environment. I and the other members of the Board of Directors warmly welcome Eelco Spoelder and look forward to our future cooperation."

The Supervisory Board of adidas AG has extended the appointment of Harm Ohlmeyer as Chief Financial Officer of the company by another three years until the beginning of 2028. Harm Ohlmeyer has been member of the Executive Board of adidas AG since March 2017 and the company’s CFO since May 2017.

At the same time, the Supervisory Board appointed Arthur Hoeld as Executive Board member, responsible for Global Sales, as of April 1, 2023. Hoeld has been with adidas for 25 years, most recently as Managing Director of the company’s EMEA region since 2018. He will succeed Roland Auschel, who has decided to step down from his role, pass on the baton and leave the company after 33 years with adidas, including ten years as an Executive Board member.    

Furthermore, Brian Grevy, Executive Board member of adidas AG, responsible for Global Brands, has informed adidas AG’s Supervisory Board that he will step down from the Executive Board and leave the company. In mutual agreement with Brian Grevy, the Supervisory Board approved the termination of his appointment as an Executive Board member as of March 31, 2023. adidas CEO Bjørn Gulden will assume responsibility for Global Brands. In this role, Gulden will lead adidas product and marketing activities, which will enable the required fast decision-making across all business units and departments.

Thomas Rabe thanked Brian Grevy for his many important contributions during his years of service with the company. Grevy initially joined adidas in 1998 and held leadership positions of increasing responsibility for adidas on a local, regional and global level before leaving the company in 2016. At the beginning of 2020, Brian Grevy returned to adidas as the company’s Executive Board member for Global Brands.

As of April 1, 2023, the company’s new Executive Board will consist of Bjørn Gulden (Chief Executive Officer and Global Brands), Arthur Hoeld (Global Sales), Harm Ohlmeyer (Chief Financial Officer), Amanda Rajkumar (Global Human Resources, People and Culture) and Martin Shankland (Global Operations).

Archroma, a manufacturer of sustainable specialty chemicals and solutions for industries such as textiles, packaging & paper, paints and coatings, announced that it has secured all regulatory approvals required to complete the acquisition of the Textile Effects business from Huntsman Corporation (“Huntsman Textile Effects”).

Both parties expect the transaction, which was first announced on 09 August 2022, to close on 28 February 2023.

Archroma is a portfolio company of US-based private investment firm SK Capital Partners. Since its formation in 2013, Archroma acquired and successfully integrated the global textile chemicals businesses of BASF as well as BASF’s stilbene-based OBA business for paper applications, and M. Dohmen, a specialist in coloration for automotive textiles.

Heike van de Kerkhof, Archroma Group Chief Executive Officer (CEO), commented: “We are very excited to see this acquisition nearing completion. I am deeply grateful to the project teams of Archroma and Huntsman who are preparing for a smooth transition for our employees and partners. After closing, we will be able to bring together our expert teams and highly complementary product portfolios to offer our customers and brand partners the high performance they expect, whilst respecting natural resources and the planet.”

Svegea of Sweden – a member of TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – has recently installed an EC300-S collarette cutter for the high speed production of tubular apparel components as well as an FA350 automatic roll slitter at the plant of Löffler, in Ried im Innkreis, Austria.

The EC 300-S collarette cutter is equipped with the computer-controlled True-Drive II and high pre-feed device, which is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements. It operates at speeds of up to 20,000 metres per hour. The integrated, fully automatic FA350 roll slitter FA500 roll slitter is equipped with three separately adjustable settings enabling three different band widths to be cut within the same cutting cycle. Automatic tube sewing units are provided for sewn tubes in optional rolled or flat folded forms, depending on customer preference.

Sports and knitwear specialist Löffler is celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2023. Its plant in Ried houses 25 circular knitting machines and three seamless knitting machines with an annual output of around 905,000 square metres of fabric, and in addition to product development, design, cutting and some sewing are all carried out in-house.

Löffler is known for its transtex under garments, which ushered in the two-layer principle of structures combining hydrophobic polypropylene and other fibres like cotton, Modal, Tencel or merino wool.

Before transtex, endurance athletes usually wore pure cotton underwear next to their skin, which became wet over time and cooled the body down. Löffler’s two-layer fabric prevented this, since the polypropylene does not absorb moisture and instead wicks it to the outside, where it can evaporate to keep the skin dry.

Innovation has been ongoing ever since, and in December, Löffler received an ISPO Award 2022 for transtex Retr’x – its latest functional underwear made from recycled polypropylene from textile waste and a combination of recycled and GOTS-certified organic cotton. Transtex Retr’x is neither dyed or bleached and is Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex as well as Made In Green by Oeko-Tex approved.

In addition to its own branded products, the plant makes sports garments for sister company Fischer, which is also based in Ried, and is at the same time involved in significant government tender projects, including the supply of polo shirts for the Austrian Red Cross and for the German and Austrian police forces. Combined, Löffler and Fischer employ approximately 700 people in the region of Upper Austria.

Beste x HeiQ AeoniQ™ announce their partnership with the launch of a capsule in the CARPINI collection at Milano Unica. The fabrics including HeiQ AeoniQ™ are crafted by the Italian textiles manufacturer Beste, well known for supplying high-end fabrics for premium and luxury brands.

The fabrics capsule collection for S/S 24 includes 12 articles made with 100% HeiQ AeoniQ™, linen, and HeiQ AeoniQ™ blends, and cotton and HeiQ AeoniQ™ blends in several different proportions.
The collection is named FLOW, as related to the movement of water and air to be in tune with Nature’s balance and rhythm, with a color range including hay, black, water, caramel, violet, dust, denim, lime, and cobalt.

With this initiative, Beste becomes the first partner to incorporate the HeiQ AeoniQ™ fiber into its active fabric portfolio, and also its Tessuteka, the library that keeps all the fabrics produced by the company since 1993.

For Carlo Centonze, HeiQ’s CEO “the partnership with Beste makes total sense for all the values embodied by HeiQ AeoniQ™ that we both share, namely its commitment to circular ethics, practice and promote sustainability, and have a positive impact in the environment while also creating new business opportunities that the market and the Planet so urgently need.”

According to Giovanni Santi, Beste’s CDA president: “Beste SpA benefit company is strongly committed to developing a positive and responsible impact over the environment and the social fabric it is surrounded by. To meet this precise criterion, we use HeiQ AeoniQ™, a new biodegradable fiber developed by HeiQ, a Swiss chemical company that is Beste's constant partner in this indispensable green revolution. The introduction of HeiQ AeoniQ™, namely a fiber that is cellulosic in nature but with characteristics and performances similar to polyester ones, concerns a significant step in the reduction of CO2 emissions and plastics. It is not only a responsible choice, but it also deals with a precise and courageous positioning in the constant battle in favor of our planet by starting from the textile innovation front.”

The new Beste x HeiQ AeoniQ™ fabrics will be displayed at Beste’s booth during the Milano Unica trade show from January 31st to February 2nd, in Milan, Italy.

• Business situation has worsened markedly but not expectations.

The 17th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey (GTIS, formerly known as ITMF Corona-Survey) shows that on average the business situation in the global textile industry has deteriorated further in November 2022. At the same time, global business expectations in six months’ time remained in negative territory but did not get gloomier. The indicators for order intake, order backlog, and capacity utilisation rate dropped, globally.

According to the survey, the business situation in the three Asian regions and Europe remained especially poor. In North & Central America the business situation has improved again markedly. Except for the textile machinery segment that still benefits on average from a long order backlog, all other segments found themselves in negative business situations, especially fibre producers and spinners. Global business expectations have remained negative but “stabilized” around -10 percentage points (pp) since July 2022. Expectations have improved significantly in South Asia to +10pp, and Europe to -30pp. Business expectations in all segments remain negative territory with four out of seven recording improvements.

Order intake nose-dived in November, in line with weaker business situation and weaker demand, currently the biggest concern for the global textile value chain. Only companies in North & Central America registered on average a good order intake, while all other regions were faced with an unsatisfactory order situation. Except for South-East Asia and North & Central America order backlog fell. The only segments where order backlog increased were the down-stream segments garments and home textiles. Capacity utilization rate dropped in all regions in November 2022. It only increased in the textile machinery segment but fell otherwise.

“Weakening demand” is by far the biggest concern in the global textile industry, followed by the root causes of demand reduction, namely high energy and raw material prices which lead to high inflation rates. Good news is that logistical costs are not much of a concern anymore. Concerns about geopolitics on the other hand have increased again in the past two months.

• Potential loss of competitiveness, caused by the EU’s inaction of the energy crisis, and Chinese and US subsidies to domestic industry

Following yesterday’s European Council summit and its conclusions on the measures to tackle the energy crisis, the European textiles industry is extremely concerned about the fast loss of competitiveness of Europe and demands urgent action to save the industry.

The chain of factors determining this sharp decline in competitiveness is twofold. First, the energy cost in Europe is more than 6 times higher than in the US, China, and neighbouring countries. This factor alone has almost erased the business case for producing in the EU. At present, many textiles and clothing companies are producing at net loss or have shut down production. The industrial conditions have worsened in such a way that there is no business case to invest in Europe or buy products produced or processed in the EU. It is only the sense of responsibility of the entrepreneurs towards the European society that is keeping the plants and production running.

Secondly, while the EU is passive and extremely slow in articulating a credible and effective response to the energy crisis, the main international competitors and trade partners (China, India and the US respectively) have developed comprehensive state-aid frameworks for their domestic industry despite not being affected by this crisis at all. The latest example is the 369-billion-dollar scheme of the Inflation Reduction Act rolled out by the Biden administration.

Recent trade data  already indicate a loss of global competitiveness: imports to the EU have grown tremendously in 2022 (+35% year-to-date). It is also evident that the surge in imports goes in parallel with the surge of natural gas price. It is expected that energy prices will remain high and volatile, opening the door for imports to gain substantial market shares in the EU.

The chart indicates the development of the Title Transfer Facility (TTF) until September 2022 since Eurostat data for Q4 2022 has not been published yet. Euratex is aware that the market situation has eased somewhat since in the past months, but the crisis remains because gas prices are still extremely high in comparison to last year. This suggests that the current loss of competitiveness of the EU manufacturing will not be recovered even with lower energy prices, unless measures are taken to correct the unlevel playing field on which the EU industry has to operate in the international markets. Only with an ambitious and comprehensive relaunch plan at EU level, Europe will be able to restore its credibility as a global manufacturing powerhouse and investments.

If the status quo is maintained, not only the EU will not be able to recover its competitive position on the global business stage, but it will also fail its plans to reach zero-net emissions and achieve circularity. It is evident that these ambitions - that the industry is passionately supporting - need massive capital investments. However, in the current scenario an investments diversion can only be expected to markets where governments are actively supporting those investments and energy costs are much lower – regardless of their fossil- or non-fossil origin.

The European textiles industry – the whole value chain, from fibres, nonwoven, to fabrics, clothing manufacturers - are facing unprecedented pressure deriving from the current geopolitical situation, the new macroeconomic conditions and unfair competition from third states. The situation is going to worsen if no emergency action is taken, especially because a recession is expected in the coming months.

The main structural component of the EU manufacturing are SMEs: these are economic actors that are particularly exposed to the current crisis as they do not have the financial leverage to absorb the impact of energy prices for much longer. Urgent EU action is needed to ensure their survival.

EURATEX calls on the EU political leaders in the Commission, in the European Council and in the national capitals to:

1. Raise the ambition and adopt a comprehensive approach at EU level: energy, state-aid and trade policy must be brought together in a single strategy with concrete emergency solutions and with a clear SME dimension;
    
2. Let all hesitations aside and adopt a meaningful price cap on natural gas wholesales, that should be ideally no higher than 80 euro/MWh. In parallel, it should also be ensured that electricity prices are brought to a sustainable price level;
    
3. Change the European posture on state-aid, even temporarily. An ambitious plan of investments and state-aid in green technologies to support the industrial transition should be rolled out.

Such a plan, however, should not be conceived as a retaliation against our most necessary and like-minded trade partners. Access to finance and markets must be safeguarded for all those actors who are capable and willing to invest in Europe, on the basis of reciprocity. In   these challenging times for geopolitical stability, ensuring strong trade ties with our traditional allies and partners is of utmost importance. The roll-out of an investment and state aid plan should not interfere, but rather support, the dialogue with the US (and other partners) and the deepening of our trade and investment partnership. Such a dialogue should be accelerated in the context of the TTC as well as at WTO level.

Fibres, fabrics, epoxy resins and adhesives from Sicomin have been used by Grand Largue Composites (GLC) to construct the first Class40 racing yacht to feature a significant quantity of flax-fibre reinforcements.
The yacht, called Crosscall, won the Class40 World Championships in June 2022 and is a prototype of the new Lift V2 design by Marc Lombard, one of the leading naval architects in this field.

Class40 is one of the most competitive fleets in yacht racing. The hulls of Class40 yachts must be light in weight, strong and stiff, and durable in the most extreme of conditions. Furthermore, to keep costs down, they cannot be reinforced with carbon fibres. The quality and reliability of the resins used for the infusion and lamination of the hulls are therefore of paramount importance.

Crosscall's cockpit was designed to be effectively non-structural, with the mainsheet, which can generate huge shock loads, supported separately. This would allow the cockpit to be made from a hybrid biaxial fabric comprising 50% flax fibres. Other parts of the boat that incorporate flax fibre include the tunnel, the engine cover, the ballast tanks and the cap. The rest of the boat is reinforced with 100% glass-fibre fabrics.

To help it realise this ambitious design, GLC, an infusion specialist, turned to its long-time material supplier, Sicomin. The hull was moulded and infused in one piece and the deck – including the hybrid flax-fibre cockpit – was also infused as a single part. The internal structure was then laminated into the hull by hand before the hull and deck were finally bonded together.

The infusion resin selected was Sicomin’s SR 1710, a high-modulus structural epoxy. Designed specifically for use in infusion and injection processes, it has exceptionally low viscosity and its low-reactivity hardener makes it suitable for the production of large parts. Composites components made from SR 1710 possess high interlaminar shear-strength and the resin retains its mechanical properties in wet environments.

Sicomin’s low-toxicity SR 8200 was used to laminate the internal structures onto the skin of the hull. Ideal for hand laminating, this system includes a choice of hardeners with a wide range of reactivities, which makes it equally suitable for making large or small parts. The hull and deck were joined together with Sicomin’s Isobond SR 7100, which demonstrates high fatigue strength and is very resistant to microcracking.

An epoxy bonding primer – called Undercoat EP 215 HB+ and supplied by Sicomin’s sister company, Map Yachting – was applied to the moulds first to make demoulding easier. It also serves as an undercoat in the polyurethane exterior paint system that is used instead of gelcoat to protect the epoxy hull from UV damage.

Since the launch of Crosscall, GLC has started building a second Lift V2 Class40 and a third one is now planned, both for which Sicomin will supply the materials.

Ascend Performance Materials has purchased a majority stake in California-based Circular Polymers, a recycler of post-consumer, high-performance polymers including polyamide 6 and 66, polypropylene and polyester (PET). The deal provides Ascend with a consistent supply of high-quality PCR materials for its ReDefyne™ sustainable polyamides, launched at K 2022.

Circular Polymers, which as part of the deal is renamed Circular Polymers by Ascend, reclaims and processes post-consumer carpet via a unique technology and has redirected approximately 85 million pounds of waste from landfills into new goods since 2018.

“We are focused on helping our customers reach their sustainability goals and Circular Polymers by Ascend provides materials that offer strong performance with a considerably smaller environmental footprint, compared to other technologies like pyrolysis,” said Phil McDivitt, president and CEO of Ascend. “Since we launched ReDefyne, the demand for our circular products has been significant across all segments of our business, including automotive, consumer, electronics and high-performance fibers and textiles.”

Ascend has a sustainability strategy based on three pillars: empowering people, innovating solutions and operating without compromise. Ascend has committed to reducing its greenhouse gas emissions by 80% by 2030 and recently announced two new efforts to reduce the carbon footprint of its products.