From the Sector

Archroma will introduce its new Super Systems+ concept and highlight product innovations at Techtextil 2024, being held in Frankfurt, Germany from April 23 to 26.

A highlight of Archroma’s participation in Techtextil, Super Systems+ are powerful end-to-end systems that combine fiber-specific processing solutions and intelligent effects. The Super Systems+ suite encompasses wet processing solutions that deliver measurable environmental impact from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value and longevity to the end product; and cleaner chemistries that eliminate harmful or regulated substances.

For textile partners to the automotive industry, Archroma is introducing DOROSPERS® KHF, a new range of high-lightfast disperse dyes that provide optimum build up on polyester microfiber, including artificial suede for car interiors.

For nonwoven applications in fields such as healthcare, hygiene and filtration, Archroma recommends APPRETAN® FFX6750, a new addition to its range of high-performance zero-formaldehyde acrylic copolymers, and APPRETAN® FFX1540.

APPRETAN® FFX1540 is a new APEO free and formaldehyde free self-crosslinking polymer, medium soft with very low tackiness, and strongly hydrophobic, developed for the chemical bonding of nonwovens and for the coating of technical textiles, where low water absorption and high-water tightness are required, combined with high durability in severe environment.

For workwear and uniforms that protect people under adverse conditions, Archroma solutions include HELIZARIN® ULTRA-FAST, for printing with pigment dispersions and metallic pigments, and the new ALBAFIX® ECO Plus wet fastness improver. Archroma’s PFC-free PHOBOTEX® R-ACE durable water repellent delivers excellent water repellence while preserving fabric quality and ensuring sustainability. Archroma has also expanded the revolutionary AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT range of resource-saving dyes with new colors.

Further solutions for active wear and workwear include the newly launched bio-based PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 durable water repellent product, which is PFAS free, formaldehyde free and crosslinker free, as well NYLOFIXAN® HFS, a new fixing agent for polyamide and blends that is fully compliant with the latest restrictions on bisphenol compounds.

Archroma is also launching ARKOPHOB® NTR-40 at Techtextil 2024. The company’s first crosslinker with an improved sustainability profile, its monomers are partially derived from renewably sourced, plant-based raw materials. Another new innovation is biocide-free OX20, an odor-neutralizing technology launched by Archroma in partnership with SANITIZED AG.

For home textiles, mills and brands can select ARKOFIX® NZW formaldehyde-free* resin for high whiteness and extraordinary product stability, with no yellowing during storage at elevated temperatures, even over a prolonged period of time. For a super-soft handle, the SILIGEN® EH1 is a vegan silicone macro-emulsion softener with 35% plant-based active content.

STFI will be presenting high-end textile products and solutions at Techtextil 2024. The highlights from current research results and innovations provide an insight into the digitalisation of textile production, show applications for 3D printing and smart technical textiles and provide examples of particularly sustainably designed products as well as innovative approaches for protective and medical textiles.

The central highlight of STFI's presence at Techtextil is a robot system that demonstrates the automated processing of a bobbin frame on a small scale. The pick-and-place application demonstrates camera-supported gripping of the bobbins. The robot is part of the STFI's “Textile Factory of the Future” which demonstrates automation solutions for the textile industry in a laboratory environment.

From the field of sustainable products and solutions, a sleeping bag with bio-based and therefore vegan filling material and a natural fibre-based composite element for furniture construction, in which LEDs and capacitive proximity sensors for contactless function control have been applied using embroidery technology, will be on show. Printed heating conductor structures demonstrate current research work for the e-mobility of the future, as the individually controllable seat and interior heating should ultimately reduce weight and save energy compared to conventional heating systems.

While a protective suit for special task forces protects against the dangers of a Molotov cocktail attack, a shin guard and a knee brace with patellar ring illustrate the process combination of 3D printing and UV LED cross-linking. Other highlights from lightweight textile construction include the rib of a vertical rudder of an Airbus A320 and a green snowboard made from recycled carbon fibres.

Autoneum has established a new Business Unit Commercial Vehicles to expand its existing truck business and to increase revenue and profitability in this vehicle segment as part of the Group’s strategic focus on profitable growth. To begin with, the Business Unit will focus on the commercial vehicles business in Europe and South America, as these two regions have a comparable customer base. The Business Unit is responsible for the global commercial vehicles business development, while its financial results will be consolidated within the Business Groups.

The new Business Unit focuses primarily on the business with components for medium and heavy trucks as well as agricultural commercial vehicles. Following the acquisition of Borgers Automotive in April last year, Autoneum has significantly expanded its product and technology portfolio for these vehicle segments. In combination with the Company’s global presence and diversified customer structure, this provides an ideal basis for future profitable growth. Autoneum already operates plants which manufacture products for the exterior and interior of commercial vehicles in Belgium, Czech Republic, France, Germany and Poland, as well as in Brazil. With the creation of a dedicated Business Unit Commercial Vehicles, Autoneum aims to leverage its existing production footprint in order to further grow the business worldwide.

As with the product portfolio for light vehicles, Autoneum’s multifunctional, lightweight and sustainable systems and components are suitable for commercial vehicles of all drive types. Autoneum is therefore well positioned for the expected increase in electric models due to more stringent environmental regulations.

From Resource-efficient and Recycled Fibres for Textiles and Building Panels to Geotextiles for Glacier Protection: Six award nominees present innovative and sustainable solutions for various industries in the cellulose fibre value chain. The full economic potential of the cellulose fibre industry will be introduced to a wide audience that will vote for the winners in Cologne (Germany), and online.

Again nova-Institute grants the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award in the context of the “Cellulose Fibres Conference”, that will take place in Cologne on 13 and 14 March 2024. In advance, the conferences advisory board nominated six remarkable products, including cellulose fibres from textile waste and straw, a novel technology for dying cellulose-based textiles and a construction panel as well as geotextiles. The innovations will be presented by the companies on the first day of the event. All conference participants can vote for one of the six nominees and the top three winners will be honoured with the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award. The Innovation award is sponsored by GIG Karasek (AT).

In addition, the ever-growing sectors of cellulose-based nonwovens, packaging and hygiene products offer conference participants insights beyond the horizon of traditional textile applications. Sustainability and other topics such as fibre-to-fibre recycling and alternative fibre sources are the key topics of the Cellulose Fibres Conference, held in Cologne, Germany, on 13 and 14 March 2024 and online. The conference will showcase the most successful cellulose-based solutions currently on the market or those planned for the near future.

The nominees:

The Straw Flexi-Dress: Design Meets Sustainability – DITF & VRETENA (DE)
The Flexi-Dress design was inspired by the natural golden colour and silky touch of HighPerCell® (HPC) filaments based on unbleached straw pulp. These cellulose filaments are produced using environmentally friendly spinning technology in a closed-loop production process. The design decisions focused on the emotional connection and attachment to the HPC material to create a local and circular fashion product. The Flexi-Dress is designed as a versatile knitted garment – from work to street – that can be worn as a dress, but can also be split into two pieces – used separately as a top and a straight skirt. The top can also be worn with the V-neck front or back. The HPC textile knit structure was considered important for comfort and emotional properties.

HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0) – Flame-retardant Board made From Upcycled Fibre Waste From the Paper Industry – Honext Material (ES)
HONEXT® FR-B board (B-s1, d0) is a flame-retardant board made from 100 % upcycled industrial waste fibres from the paper industry. Thanks to innovations in biotechnology, paper sludge is upcycled – the previously “worthless” residue from paper making – to create a fully recyclable material, all without the use of resins. This lightweight and easy-to-handle board boasts high mechanical performance and stability, along with low thermal conductivity, making it perfect for various applications in all interior environments where fire safety is a priority. The material is non-toxic, with no added VOCs, ensuring safety for both people and the planet. A sustainable and healthy material for the built environment, it achieves Cradle-to-Cradle Certified GOLD, and Material Health CertificateTM Gold Level version 4.0 with a carbon-negative footprint. Additionally, it is verified in the Product Environmental Footprint.

LENZING™ Cellulosic Fibres for Glacier Protection – Lenzing (AT)
Glaciers are now facing an unprecedented threat from global warming. Synthetic fibre-based geotextiles, while effective in slowing down glacier melt, create a new environmental challenge: microplastics contaminating glacial environments. The use of such materials contradicts the very purpose of glacier protection, as it exacerbates an already critical environmental problem. Recognizing this problem, the innovative use of cellulosic LENZING™ fibres presents a pioneering solution. The Institute of Ecology, at the University of Innsbruck, together with Lenzing and other partners made first trials in 2022 by covering small test fields with LENZING™ fibre-based geotextiles. The results were promising, confirming the effectiveness of this approach in slowing glacier melt without leaving behind microplastic.

The RENU Jacket – Advanced Recycling for Cellulosic Textiles – Pangaia (UK) & Evrnu (US)
PANGAIA LAB was born out of a dream to reduce barriers between people and the breakthrough innovations in material science. In 2023, PANGAIA LAB launched the RENU Jacket, a limited edition product made from 100% Nucycl® – a technology that recycles cellulosic textiles by breaking them down to their molecular building blocks, and reforming them into new fibres. This process produces a result that is 100% recycled and 100% recyclable when returned to the correct waste stream – maintaining the strength of the fibre so it doesn’t need to be blended with virgin material.
Through collaboration with Evrnu, the PANGAIA team created the world’s first 100% chemically recycled denim jacket, replacing a material traditionally made from 100% virgin cotton. By incorporating Nucycl® into this iconic fabric construction, dyed with natural indigo, the teams have demonstrated that it’s possible to replace ubiquitous materials with this innovation.

Textiles Made from Easy-to-dye Biocelsol – VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland (FI)
One third of the textile industry’s wastewater is generated in dyeing and one fifth in finishing. But the use of chemically modified Biocelsol fibres reduces waste water. The knitted fabric is made from viscose and Biocelsol fibres and is only dyed after knitting. This gives the Biocelsol fibres a darker shade, using the same amount of dye and no salt in dyeing process. In addition, an interesting visual effect can be achieved. Moreover, less dye is needed for the darker colour tone in the finished textile and the possibility to use the salt-free dyeing is more environmentally friendly.
These special properties of man-made cellulosic fibres will reassert the fibres as a replacement for the existing fossil-based fibres, thus filling the demand for more environmentally friendly dyeing-solutions in the textile industry. The functionalised Biocelsol fibres were made in Finnish Academy FinnCERES project and are produced by wet spinning technique from the cellulose dope containing low amounts of 3-allyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl substituents. The functionality formed is permanent and has been shown to significantly improve the dyeability of the fibres. In addition, the functionalisation of Biocelsol fibres reduces the cost of textile finishing and dyeing as well as the effluent load.

A New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre – TreeToTextile (SE)
TreeToTextile has developed a unique, sustainable and resource efficient fibre that doesn't exist on the market today. It has a natural dry feel similar to cotton and a semi-dull sheen and high drape like viscose. It is based on cellulose and has the potential to complement or replace cotton, viscose and polyester as a single fibre or in blends, depending on the application.
TreeToTextile Technology™ has a low demand for chemicals, energy and water. According to a third party verified LCA, the TreeToTextile fibre has a climate impact of 0.6 kg CO2 eq/kilo fibre. The fibre is made from bio-based and traceable resources and is biodegradable.

From 11 to 14 January 2024, the global carpet and flooring industry will meet at the Hannover exhibition grounds to discuss new products and current industry trends. With 1,000 international exhibitors, DOMOTEX promises a comprehensive overview of the Flooring und Carpets & Rugs sectors.

In addition to top exhibitors from the Carpets & Rugs sector, numerous global brands from the flooring industry will be exhibiting.
Well-known and long-standing exhibitors such as Area Floors, Amorim, Lamett, Li & Co, Camsan, Design Parquet, CFL Flooring, AGT, Forestry Timber, STP, SWISS KRONO, Decospan, Massive Holding, Floorify and Granorte have confirmed their participation. However, new exhibitors or those who have not participated for several years are also back in 2024 – including Kronospan and Kaindl, mFlor, Onefloor, Republic, Classen, Gerflor and MeisterWerke. From the field of application and installation technology, Neuhofer, SELIT, Välinge, Estillon, Shaper Origin, ADESIV, KLEIBERIT and i4F have also announced their participation.

In addition to the main exhibition, DOMOTEX will offer a variety of side events designed to provide important impulses for the day-to-day business of all trade visitors

THE GREEN COLLECTION
For the second time, THE GREEN COLLECTION in Hall 23 will highlight the latest developments in the fields of sustainability, circular economy and environmental protection in the carpet and flooring industry for visitors to experience first-hand. The special display includes current research projects by TFI Aachen, a haptic material show by raumprobe and product presentations by companies such as Uzin Utz, Classen and Gerflor.

RETAILERS‘ PARK
In collaboration with DECOR-UNION and the MEGA Group, DOMOTEX will be expanding its portfolio to include the two product segments "wall" and "ceiling" for the first time. In addition to other flooring suppliers, the RETAILERS' PARK in Hall 19/20 will feature products for holistic interior design, including paints and coatings from Südwest, Meffert and PPG Coatings as well as wallpapers from AS and Erfurt. Participants can also look forward to practical solutions for their day-to-day business, presented in the area's own user forum through hands-on live demonstrations.

DOMOTEX on Stage
The conference program in Hall 23 features experts from the retail sector, associations, architecture, interior design, trade and politics, who will offer a holistic view of the topics of the future for the entire industry. On Friday, 12 January, German politician and member of the European Parliament Reinhard Bütikofer will give a presentation on the European Green Deal. Joachim Stumpp, Managing Director of raumprobe, and Chiara Rodriguez from Materially will report on sustainable materials. In addition to sustainability, topics relating to trends, new work and the shortage of skilled workers will also play a keyrole at DOMOTEX on Stage.

Autoneum’s sustainable, textile and lightweight Propylat technology reduces both interior and exterior noise of vehicles. Propylat was originally developed by Borgers Automotive, which was acquired by Autoneum in April 2023. The versatile technology is characterized by a flexible material composition of natural and synthetic fibers with a high recycled content and contributes to significant waste reduction thanks to its complete vertical integration. In addition, the fully recyclable technology variant Propylat PET is now part of the sustainability label Autoneum Pure.

The ongoing electrification of mobility as well as increasingly strict regulatory requirements for vehicle performance in terms of sustainability and acoustics are presenting new challenges to car manufacturers worldwide. With Propylat, Autoneum now offers another lightweight, fiber-based and versatile technology whose sound-insulating and -absorbing properties as well as high content of recycled materials help customers address these challenges. Propylat-based products not only contribute to reducing pass-by noise and improving driver comfort, but they are also up to 50 percent lighter than equivalent plastic alternatives; this results in a lower vehicle weight and, consequently, less fuel and energy consumption as well as lower CO2 emissions.

Autoneum's innovative Propylat technology consists of a mixture of recycled synthetic and natural fibers – the latter include cotton, jute, flax or hemp, for example – that are consolidated using thermoplastic binding fibers without adding any further chemical binders. Thanks to the flexible fiber composition and the variable density and thickness of the porous material, the properties of the respective Propylat variant, for example with regards to acoustic performance, can be tailored to individual customer requirements. This allows for a versatile application of the technology in a variety of interior and exterior components such as wheelhouse outer liners, trunk trim, underbody systems and carpets. For instance, Propylat-based wheelhouse outer liners significantly reduce rolling noise both inside and outside the vehicle while at the same time offering optimum protection against stone chipping and spray water.

In terms of sustainability, Propylat always contains a high proportion of recycled fibers – up to 100% in some variants – and can be manufactured with zero waste. Thanks to the full vertical integration of Propylat and Autoneum’s extensive expertise in recycling processes, the technology also contributes to a further significant reduction in production waste. Moreover, the Propylat PET technology variant, which consists of 100% PET, of which up to 70% are recycled fibers, is fully recyclable at the end of product life. For this reason, Propylat PET has been selected for Autoneum Pure – the Company’s sustainability label for technologies with excellent environmental performance throughout the product life cycle – where it will replace the current Mono-Liner technology going forward.

Propylat-based components are currently available in Europe, North America and China.

Dibella will present its circular bed linen “Versailles” at the Sustainable Design Summit and the Cruise Ship Interiors Design Expo in London. Dibella is thus once again underpinning its reputation as a pioneer in the field of sustainability.

The Bocholt-based company is presenting its new innovation for the first time at the Sustainable Design Summit on 28 November 2023 at the Museum of London Docklands. International visitors from the cruise, hotel and aviation sectors will have the opportunity to find out more about the first circular bed linen "Versailles".

At the subsequent Cruise Ship Interiors Design Expo from 29 to 30 November 2023 at ExCeL in London, Dibella will be exhibiting for the second time after a successful start in 2022. Under the motto "Almost too good to get out of bed", Dibella will be presenting its new innovation "Versailles", its multi-certified products, the company and its customised services and benefits.

With "Versailles", Dibella is realising its vision of a closed-loop economy. The specialist for sustainable contract textiles has succeeded in recycling old, no longer usable bed linen into new fibres and weaving them into new bed linen.

Ahead of the extra-ordinary Council on 6 October in Granada, EURATEX President, Alberto Paccanelli, and CIE President, Jose Vte Serna, call on the EU Presidency to develop a new competitiveness strategy, which can relaunch the European industry and ensure it will remain competitive in the decades to come. This means bringing together trade, energy, state aid and sustainability policies into a single, integrated, comprehensive approach, which can support a robust and modern European manufacturing industry.  
 
To consolidate a strong industrial structure in Europe, the Union should

1. secure the supply of clean energy at a competitive cost;
2. support innovation and foster the necessary talent pool and
3. be more assertive in achieving an international level-playing field on sustainability, based on the European model.  

During the past few years the implementation of incoherent and conflicting objectives under the trade, energy, industrial and sustainability policy has been observed. As a matter of fact, while the circular economy promised to be a recipe for a competitive industry of the future, the likelihood of pushing the EU industry out of the market and driving investment elsewhere than in Europe is very high. If this approach were to continue in the next years, it will result in a de-industrialised Europe, depending on imports from abroad. Such a Europe would be more exposed to geopolitical turmoil, with no agency to deliver its vision of peace, well-being and a healthy environment to its citizens.

It is fundamental for Europe to pursue a more coherent set of policies that put the competitiveness of its domestic industry at the core. In this context, all the industrial manufacturing sectors should be in the scope, including the textile industry, given its importance in providing essential products and applications to our society. A first impactful action that can be taken in this direction, would be to expand the scope of the Net-Zero Industry Act (NZIA) to include the textiles and clothing industry.
 
The history of European industry is fully woven in the birth and expansion of the European textiles industry since the XVIII century. Still today, the European textiles and clothing industry holds a pivotal position in the market, encompassing a diverse range of sectors and applications. In terms of employment, our industry creates 1,3 million direct jobs in Europe, encompassing a wide range of roles, from design and production to distribution and retail. European textiles have a wide range of applications, the most common one is of course clothing and fashion. The industry has a long history of producing high-quality apparel, with various regions specializing in specific niches.
 
Beyond clothing, there is a wide range of industrial sectors were textiles play an essential role, including  Automotive (used for upholstery, interior components, and even lightweight composite materials), Aircraft and Shipbuilding (where textiles are employed for their lightweight and high-strength properties, to enhance fuel efficiency, reduce emissions, and improve overall performance), Building and Construction (insulation, roofing, geotextiles, and architectural textiles), or Personal Protective Equipment, for medical personnel, firefighters, police and army officers. This includes masks, gowns, uniforms, helmets, and fire-resistant clothing, ensuring safety in hazardous environments.
 
Textiles are essential components of our society and our well-being. It is key for Europe to maintain its capacity to manufacture high-quality, sustainable and high-technology textiles.  With this in mind, the competitiveness policy of the future and the related funds to support it, should include the textile ecosystem in its scope.  

Since 1967, ‘OETI - Institute for Ecology, Technology and Innovation’ has made a name for itself worldwide as an accredited and notified centre of excellence. With decades of experience as a service provider, the company specialises in the testing and certification of textiles, leather, personal protective equipment (PPE), floor coverings and interior furnishing materials. It also assesses indoor air quality. As a founding member of the international OEKO-TEX® association (1992) and official OEKO-TEX® testing institute, OETI also comprises the entire OEKO-TEX® product portfolio.

Between its own international branches and the branches of OETI’s Swiss parent company, TESTEX AG, OETI’s network of locations spans several continents. Recently, one more branch has been added in Pakistan (headquartered in Faisalabad).
OETI Pakistan is managed by Akhlaq Hussain, who has decades of experience in the textile and apparel industry for testing, inspection, certification, auditing, product safety, training and sustainability management.

Akhlaq Hussain’s main goal is to ‘create visibility for the OETI brand in Pakistan. We want to offer sustainable, reliable, and competitive services to Pakistan’s textile industry. My aim is to foster Pakistan’s exports by offering more sustainable certifications and training in environmental and social topics as well as due diligence in supply chains, which are in high demand in European countries.’

Markus Lang’s - OETI’s Global Head of Marketing & Sales – main goal is to ‘increase the awareness of sustainability within Pakistan’s textile and leather industry, which is also the main objective of our future development.’

Germany-based ZwissTex is a leading manufacturer of textiles with over 150 years of experience, creating innovative and sustainable textile solutions for the automotive and apparel industries. The company also operates in Mexico, to specifically serve the automotive sector across North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) markets. Via OEMs, ZwissTex supplies German automakers including Volkswagen Auto Group, BMW, and Mercedes, as well as American manufacturers in select cases.

Unlike other Kornit customers, ZwissTex had no previous experience printing their own materials, and saw Kornit’s sustainable, single-step, Presto MAX S production system as an effective means of increasing their product capabilities.

“Our textiles were not classically printed in the past, and we did not produce any classical textiles in fashion, which is why we didn’t have any printing experience internally,” said Ralph Moldan, Technical Specialist at ZwissTex, as the system was being installed in their facility. “The only option was to find a system that would enable us to implement the areas in which we are active on the market easily and quickly, without requiring a lot of printing experience.”

One benefit of integrating Kornit technology into the ZwissTex production ecosystem: applying ink only where it is needed and seen, rather than to the full surface of each material. This translates to both reducing the company’s carbon footprint, and minimizing materials waste for a more cost-effective operation.

Prior to making the decision to invest in Kornit, ZwissTex conducted a series of tests and consultations, evaluating possible applications for different materials and engaging with their own key clients to ensure these finished products would meet their rigorous quality and durability standards. This included presenting Kornit-decorated samples at the Techtextil 2022 exhibition in Frankfurt.

Moldan found Kornit’s production capabilities opened new doors to customization of interior areas, a market that continues to grow. He anticipates this technology will create new opportunities with customers they could not reach previously, including new opportunities in sectors such as motor homes, airlines, and aircraft outfitters.