From the Sector

Members of TMAS – the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – will be taking part in the forthcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition, taking place from November 19-23 2023 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre in Shanghai, China.

Weaving
In the area of weaving, 93% of the 114,000 new looms delivered in 2022 went to Asia, according to the latest figures from the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), with China the top destination, followed by India.
As a result, TMAS members like Vandewiele Sweden AB and Eltex have a huge market to address that has been established over many decades.

Vandewiele Sweden AB benefits from all of the synergies and accumulated know-how of the market-leading Vandewiele Group, supplying weft yarn feeding and tension control units for weaving looms to the majority of weaving machine manufacturers. It also retrofits its latest technologies to working mills to enable instant benefits in terms of productivity and control.

Yarn and sewing thread monitoring
With nearly 70 years of expertise in yarn sensor technology, Eltex of Sweden AB has been at the forefront of new product development. Its EYE and EyETM systems are capable of accurately and efficiently monitoring the movement and tension of more than 1,000 yarns simultaneously. These systems are suitable for various applications and fibre types, including warping, winding, multiaxial weaving and new material applications.

Eltex sewing tension monitors, such as the ETM422, have been well-received by customers. This device can monitor the tension of sewing threads in real time, effectively improving the quality and safety of sewn products. Particularly in China's rapidly growing automotive manufacturing sector, the ETM422 has seen widespread use to meet the industry’s escalating demands for product safety and quality.

Dyeing and finishing
“Digitalisation, automation and AI have become the key enablers for sustainable gains across the entire textile industry and so much has been achieved in the past few years, especially in terms of automation,” says TMAS secretary general Therese Premler-Andersson. “One area in which TMAS members are really making a difference right now, is in replacing water and energy-intensive technologies for the dyeing and finishing processes with new digital technologies.”

The TexCoat G4 non-contact spray technology for textile finishing and remoistening, for example, will be showcased in Shanghai by Baldwin. It not only reduces water, chemicals and energy consumption, but also provides the flexibility to adapt to a customer’s requirements in terms of single and double-sided finishing applications. The TexCoat G4 can reduce water consumption by as much as 50% compared to traditional padding application processes.

At this year’s Techtextil India, the Polymer Processing Solutions Division of the Swiss Oerlikon group will be presenting the trade audience with new applications, special processes and sustainable solutions focusing on the production of industrial textiles. Between September 9 and 12, the discussions at Jio World Convention Centre (JWCC), Mumbai, will be concentrating on airbags, seat belts, tire cord, geotextiles, filter nonwovens and their diverse applications.

More polyester for airbags
The yarns used in airbags are made predominantly from polyamide. As a result of increasingly diverse airbag applications and also the increasing size of the systems used, polyester is today used as well, depending on the application requirements and cost-benefit considerations. Against this background, the Oerlikon Barmag technol-ogies make an invaluable contribution. In addition to high productivity and low energy consumption, they particularly excel in terms of their stable production processes. Furthermore, they comply with every high quality standard for airbags, which – as in the case of virtually all other textile products used in vehicle construction – must provide the highest level of safety for vehicle occupants - without any loss of function in any climate and for the lifetime of the vehicle

Buckle up!
Seat belts have to withstand tensile forces in excess of three tons and simultaneously stretch in a controlled manner in emergencies in order to reduce the load in the event of impact. A seat belt comprises approximately 300 filament yarns, whose individual, high-tenacity yarn threads are spun from around 100 individual filaments. “With our unique, patented Single Filament Layer Technology, we offer a sophisticated and simultaneously gentle high-tenacity (HT) yarn process for manufacturing these lifesavers and other applications made from industrial yarn”, explains André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing.

Road reinforcement using geotextiles
Low stretch, ultra-high tenacity, high rigidity – industrial yarns offer outstanding properties for the demand-ing tasks carried out by geotextiles; for instance, as geogrids in the base course system under asphalt. Normally, geotextiles have extremely high yarn titers of up to 24,000 denier. Oerlikon Barmag system concepts simultaneously manufacture three filament yarns of 6,000 denier each. Due to the high spinning titers, fewer yarns can be plied together to the required geo-yarn titer in a more cost- and energy-efficient manner.

hycuTEC –  quantum leap for filter media
In the case of its hycuTEC hydro-charging solution, Oerlikon Neumag offers a new technology for charging nonwovens that increases filter efficiency to more than 99.99%. For meltblown producers, this means material savings of 30% with significantly superior filter performance. For end users, the consequence is noticeably improved comfort resulting from significantly reduced breathing resistance. With its considerably lower water and energy consumption, this new development is also a future-proof, sustainable technology.

ANDRITZ has received an order from Lotus Teknik Tekstil A.Ş., Türkiye, to install a Metris All-In-One digitalization platform for its new WetlaceTM CP nonwovens production line from ANDRITZ. The integration will be finalized in September 2023.

Lotus Teknik Tekstil A.Ş. is a leading nonwoven roll good producer and a member of the Sapro group, one of the top three producers of wet wipes globally.

The Metris All-in-One platform developed by ANDRITZ provides full support for industrial plants throughout their entire life cycle. It combines a complete range of functionalities for professional production management, simulation and optimization using the latest artificial intelligence methods, plus cyber security, and condition monitoring with smart sensors in an integrated approach.

It will support Lotus Teknik Tekstil in further optimizing the operating efficiency of its ANDRITZ Wetlace CP line by

• ensuring a stable production process via data collection and process monitoring,
• reducing operational costs through optimized production traceability and energy monitoring,
• improving final product quality thanks to a stable process, and
• reducing production waste by optimizing raw material management.

UK’s Optima 3D is delivering its weaving technology to the USA, for installation at the University of Maine’s Advanced Structures and Composites Center (ASCC).

The 3D weaving system consists of an Optima 3D Series 600 shuttle weaving machine with an integrated 2,688-hook Stäubli SX jacquard and harness. It is also complemented by Optima’s compact warp delivery creel and an associated pirn winder for shuttle bobbins and a spool winder for creel spools.

Optima’s looms offer many advanced features over conventional weaving machines, particularly in terms of versatility, as a result of the comprehensive use of digital control systems allowing rapid parameter and sequence changes, coupled with an innovative shuttle system.

The ASCC is certainly no stranger to advanced technology, or indeed ambitious composite projects – in 2019 it received no less than three Guinness World Records, for the world’s largest prototype polymer 3D printer, the largest solid 3D-printed object, and the largest 3D-printed boat. In its latest project it has further introduced BioHome3D – the first 3D-printed house made entirely with bio-based materials developed in a partnership with Oak Ridge National Laboratory. The 182-square-metre prototype features 3D-printed floors, walls and roof which are fully recyclable and highly insulated with 100% wood insulation and customisable R-values. Construction waste was nearly eliminated due to the precision of the printing process.

The KARL MAYER GROUP is intensifying its business activities in Turkey and is setting up a subsidiary in Bursa. The opening of the new site is planned for October 2023.

The company's success on the market to date has been made possible to a large extent by its close and long-standing cooperation with Erko, the KARL MAYER GROUP's regional representative. The two companies have been cooperating for more than 50 years and see further positive market development in Turkey in the medium to long term.

In order to exploit and shape the potential, they will sharpen the focus of their competences in the Warp Knitting and Warp Preparation Business Units: Erko A.S. will focus on sales, taking advantage of its long-standing regional network. The KARL MAYER GROUP will take over the after-sales service and offer customers a link to the Care Solutions world of the group. Customers benefit from next-level support with many innovative solutions, especially digital ones, for meeting the challenges of our time. At the same time, they can continue to build on the tried and trusted.

The headquarters in Bursa covers just under 1,000 m² on three levels. It offers space for service, an academy with textile samples and a training machine, a workshop for minor repairs and a warehouse for the spare parts business. Located in the top-selling region in Turkey, it is also designed as a contact point for customers.

Thanks to its strong position on the Turkish market, the KARL MAYER GROUP intends to support the companies here, most of which are family-run, in the forthcoming generational changes, and to provide the next generation with specialist support and qualifications.

The KARL MAYER GROUP and the Südwolle Group have joined forces in a project to explore the possibilities of merino wool for warp knitting technology. The project was triggered by the increasing demand for textiles made from sustainable and environmentally friendly materials. The cooperation was to develop innovative fabrics from renewable raw materials for use in underwear and functional sportswear. The focus of the work was on the use of wool as a material with excellent comfort properties and the look and feel of lightweight single jersey goods. The natural fiber fabric qualities are not typical for warp knitting processing, so the challenges during the project work were diverse.

Merino wool yarns with good running properties
Regarding the choice of material, the product development team of Südwolle Group recommended the Hidalgo yarn from their product portfolio. The yarn was created using the in-house developed Betaspun technology, in which a filament was twisted around a merino core. When natural fibres such as wool, cotton or silk are combined with sustainable fibres such as biodegradable polyamide as the filament, the spinning process can create durable, lightweight yarns that disintegrate completely without residue after use. The yarns made from the two components also have good running properties for use in warp knitting. "The polyamide content of the yarn increases its tenacity, reduces hairiness and makes it an excellent choice for warp knitting technology," confirmed Gabriela Schellner from KARL MAYER's Textile Product Development Department.

Shape stability paired with single jersey "look and feel"
The Hidalgo yarn, which is made from merino wool, was processed on a warp knitting machine using a carefully thought-out lapping selection to produce a light, soft fabric which, above all, retains its shape. The textile specialists at KARL MAYER had experimented with two different single bar fabric qualities beforehand and had thus adopted a new approach for jersey machines.

The first results are promising. Now more trials are needed to perfect the technique. Development partners are needed, including fabric producers, brands, and garment manufacturers, with whom the fabric qualities, machine equipment and orientation to the end applications can be refined. The KARL MAYER GROUP and the Südwolle Group are also unanimous in their desire to push the boundaries of what is possible with merino wool and knitting technology and to develop new solutions for the textile industry through further project work.

During the second quarter of 2023, the orders index for textile machinery, as compiled by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, dropped significantly compared to 2022 April – June 2022 period (-30%). In absolute terms, the index stood at 85.1 points (basis 2015=100).

This drop is the result of a reduction in the collection of new orders recorded by manufacturers both domestically and on foreign markets. The decrease in orders in Italy amounted to 21%, whereas a 31% downtrend was observed abroad. The absolute value of the index on foreign markets settled at 81.9 points, while in Italy it stands at 117.2 points. New orders for the second quarter amounted to 4.1 months of guaranteed production. ACIMIT’s data also shows that the use of production capacity by Italian manufacturers was 70% for the first half of 2023. This percentage is expected to remain stable for the second half of the year.

ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè stated that, “The orders index for the second quarter elaborated by our Economics Department clearly shows a decline in new orders both in Italy and abroad compared to the previous year. The decline that usually precedes an event such as ITMA, the international textile machinery exhibition held last June in Milan, however, is part of a negative trend that has been going on for several quarters”.

Uncertainty appears to be weighing heavily especially on markets abroad, where foreign trade statistics updated to the first quarter of 2023 are marked by a slackening in Italian sales in some important reference markets, such as Turkey, China, the United States and Pakistan.

Salvadè added that, “Feedback from over 400 Italian companies that took part in ITMA is positive. It’s now necessary for the many contacts made during the event to materialize and for the demand for machinery in the main textile machinery markets to resume a path towards growth.”

In the printing industry, direct-to-film technology is having a transformative impact on the apparel decoration space. It provides a simple and affordable garment printing process that facilitates vibrant, dynamic, full-colour designs with a durable print. It opens up opportunities for digital print service providers (PSPs) to expand their product offerings in the textile industry, their network of potential customers and expand the range of fabrics they can print on.

Direct-to-film vs. Screen Printing
Direct-to-film printing is the process of digitally printing directly onto a special transfer film sheet. The printed film is subsequently sprinkled with a hot-melt powder and heated. Once the transfer sheet is cured and dried, it can be heat-pressed onto a variety of fabrics to create premium transferred designs for customised merchandising, sportswear, and an array of other promotional applications for the textile market. Compared with traditional screen printing, the plate creation required for that process is far too time-consuming. Not only this, but it does not match direct-to-film’s ability to produce vivid colours and quality details such as shapes, lettering, and motifs often sought after in the promotional and merchandising space for bespoke textiles.

The Mimaki TxF150-75
Mimaki’s first direct-to-film inkjet printer is the TxF150-75, a fitting extension to the 150 series, with a maximum printing width of 80cm. Offering a stable printing plotter, the model’s built-in ink circulation system and degassed ink pack are resolutions to common direct-to-film challenges such as poor ink ejection and white ink clogging. The new printer also includes core Mimaki features including NCU (Nozzle Check Unit) and NRS (Nozzle Recovery System) for stable, uninterrupted print production. Operating in harmony with the textile printer itself is Mimaki’s ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® certified water-based pigment textile inks, formulated especially for the TxF150-75. Coupled with Mimaki’s RasterLink7 RIP software, users are offered end-to-end oversight and efficiency from creative design to final product.

In addition, and in line with Mimaki’s collaborative approach to meeting customer needs, Adkins has developed an 80cm wide powder shaker cure unit to complete this ‘A brand’ direct-to-film printing solution. By offering the printer and post-processing unit at 80cm wide, customers can print larger garments with less waste and quicker production times, making the process much more cost effective.

Baldwin Technology Co. Inc. has launched a new set of resources for sheet-fed and web offset printers at PrintEnomics.com with the release of the “Video Didn't Kill the Radio Star. And Digital Didn't Kill Print” eBook.

Its PrintEnomic$ website offers curated resources that analyze trends and issues impacting not only sheet-fed and web offset printers but also narrow web and corrugated printers. Separate eBooks, videos, podcasts and instructional guides are available to help maximize printer profitability in all three specialized areas.

Baldwin is a leading global manufacturer and supplier of innovative process-automation equipment, parts, service and consumables for the printing, packaging, textile, plastic film extrusion and corrugated industries.

More than 5,000 print industry professionals have already downloaded or viewed earlier-released eBooks centered on narrow web (“Untangling the Web”) and corrugated (“From Beast to Beauty”).

Through interviews with customers, industry insiders, in-house engineers – and reviews of the latest reporting – Baldwin explores four trends in the “Video Didn't Kill the Radio Star. And Digital Didn't Kill Print” eBook:

• The resurgence in book publishing
• Labor challenges
• Direct mail marketing as a cure for screen fatigue
• Sustainability

International technology group ANDRITZ has installed a new spunlace pilot line at its center of competence in Montbonnot, France. It allows customers and partners to conduct trials for producing nonwovens from recycled and/or natural fibers such as hemp, flax, and cotton.

The new pilot line features optimized web forming and entanglement for smooth processing of sensitive and irregular fibers. The innovative card set-up is designed to protect and maintain the quality of the fibers while achieving outstanding productivity rates.

Another special feature of this pilot line is the integrated ANDRITZ Metris digitalization system. It allows the operators to collect and analyze all useful data about the line’s capacity and performance. This is a perfect tool for optimizing costs, saving time and predicting maintenance.

With the new line, the ANDRITZ Nonwoven team now operates two spunlace pilot lines at the Montbonnot technical center. The first line has optimized processes, for instance WetlaceTM, for processing various synthetic and man-made fibers. ANDRITZ process experts ensure that advanced technology and know-how are available under one roof at Montbonnot.