From the Sector

Stahl has published its 2023 Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) Report. The report outlines Stahl's recent progress on its ESG Roadmap to 2030 and the steps the company is taking to live its purpose of Touching lives, for a better world.

Stahl’s ESG Roadmap to 2030 includes interim targets for 2023, making this a year in which Stahl reached several important milestones. For example, the company reduced its scope 1 and 2 greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions by 22% versus 2022. Furthermore, in 2023 the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) validated Stahl's scope 1, 2 and 3 targets, making it one of the first coatings companies on the SBTi-approved list.

To reduce its GHG emissions, Stahl is actively increasing its use of clean energy. At the end of 2023, renewable energy generation, such as solar panels, had been installed at four Stahl sites, compared to its target of three.

Measuring – and reducing – the impact of products is an important step in the company’s scope 3 emissions. As such, 353 Stahl products now have either life cycle assessment (LCA) or product carbon footprint (PCF) data, far exceeding the 2023 target of 50.
 
New ratings and certifications
In 2023, 2,161 of Stahl's products were certified by Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC), in line with ZDHC MRSL V3.1. These products represented 70% of the company’s sales revenue, demonstrating increased demand for coatings with a lower risk to health and the environment.

Stahl was also proud to achieve a Platinum rating from EcoVadis for the second year in a row, which places it in the top 1% of companies evaluated. Stahl also exceeded its 2023 target of an average EcoVadis rating of at least 60/100 for their top ten suppliers, with an average rating of 68/100 reported in December 2023.
Fostering a safe and welcoming work environment

A core pillar of Stahl’s ESG approach is how it supports its employees’ physical and mental well-being. The 2023 ESG Report outlines several examples of this commitment, such as improvement in its key safety KPIs for the third year in a row.

Besides keeping people safe, Stahl continues to make progress in fostering an open and inclusive workplace. For example, in support of diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI), Stahl appointed its first female leadership team member, trained 98% of its staff in DEI and established DEI committees at all Stahl sites. In addition, to strengthen communication, engagement and collaboration across the workforce, Stahl also established an internal workplace hub, MyStahl.

adidas announced preliminary results for the first quarter of 2024. In Q1, currency-neutral revenues increased 8% versus the prior year level. In euro terms, the company’s revenues grew 4% to € 5.458 billion (2023: € 5.274 billion). The company’s gross margin improved 6.4 percentage points to 51.2% during the quarter (2023: 44.8%). Operating profit reached € 336 million in Q1 (2023: € 60 million).

As a result of the better-than-expected performance during the quarter, the company has increased its full-year guidance. adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues to increase at a mid- to high-single-digit rate in 2024 (previously: increase at a mid-single-digit rate). The company’s operating profit is now expected to reach a level of around € 700 million (previously: to reach a level of around € 500 million).  

The latest Yeezy drop generated revenues of around € 150 million and an operating profit of around € 50 million in the first quarter. In its guidance, the company assumes the sale of the remaining Yeezy inventory during the remainder of the year to occur on average at cost. This would result in additional sales of around € 200 million and no further profit contribution during the remainder of the year.

The company continues to expect unfavorable currency effects to weigh significantly on the company’s profitability this year. These effects are projected to continue to negatively impact both reported revenues and the gross margin development in 2024.

• CARBIOS Group’s solid financial structure: cash position of €192 million on December 31, 2023
• Construction progress of world’s first PET biorecycling plant in France: in line with delivery targets for customers in 2026
• Licensing: international sales teams deployed in more than ten countries, with several partnerships feasible for 2024

CARBIOS reported its operating and financial results for the financial year 2023. The financial statements as of December 31, 2023, were approved by the Company’s Board of Directors at their meeting on April 10, 2024.

2023 Financial highlights
The consolidated financial statements of the Company as of December 31, 2023, are presented in accordance with International Financial Reporting Standards (IFRS) as issued by the International Accounting Standards Board (IASB) and adopted by the European Union.

For 2022 and 2023, these IFRS consolidated financial statements include the financial statements of CARBIOS, the parent company, and the financial statements of its fully integrated subsidiaries Carbiolice and CARBIOS 54. The group formed by CARBIOS, Carbiolice and CARBIOS 54 is hereinafter referred to as the “Group”.

These IFRS financial statements for the Group have been prepared to provide high quality information in line with that of similar companies and based on international standards.

Outlook
Given the progress made by the Group during 2023 and the success of the financing operation closed in July 2023 as well as the received grants, CARBIOS confirms its operating targets and the provisional calendar of the industrial and commercial deployment of its PET biorecycling technology.
2024  • Construction of the Longlaville plant further to permits obtained in October 2023
2024  • Recruitment of plant operations team and training at demonstration facility
2026  • First significant deliveries to clients

Alongside this project, CARBIOS aims to sign its first licensing contracts for its PET biorecycling technology in 2024.

The Supervisory Board of Lenzing AG appointed Dr. Walter Bickel as a member of the Managing Board and Chief Transformation Officer of Lenzing AG with effect from April 15, 2024 until December 31, 2025. The experienced manager will strengthen the Lenzing Managing Board and will be responsible for the further development and implementation of the performance program. Lenzing AG’s existing performance program was successfully initiated by the Managing Board in autumn 2023 and focuses on positive free cash flow, strengthened sales and margin growth, and sustainable cost excellence. The appointment of a separate member of the Managing Board for the performance program underlines its importance for the economic recovery of Lenzing AG and will make a significant contribution to achieving the goals. In addition, this ensures that the existing Managing Board can devote all the necessary resources to its core tasks in sales, operations and finances.

Dr. Walter Bickel is an expert in implementing yield increase programs. He has decades of leadership experience in management consulting and in leading positions in industrial companies. As a member of top management, he has successfully supported comprehensive performance programs at companies such as KUKA, Treofan and Syntegon. At Lenzing, Walter Bickel will further advance and accelerate the performance program, which has already made important contributions to improving earnings, and tap into additional performance improvement potential aiming for a significant sustainable increase of Lenzing’s earning power and competitiveness.

Archroma will introduce its new Super Systems+ concept and highlight product innovations at Techtextil 2024, being held in Frankfurt, Germany from April 23 to 26.

A highlight of Archroma’s participation in Techtextil, Super Systems+ are powerful end-to-end systems that combine fiber-specific processing solutions and intelligent effects. The Super Systems+ suite encompasses wet processing solutions that deliver measurable environmental impact from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value and longevity to the end product; and cleaner chemistries that eliminate harmful or regulated substances.

For textile partners to the automotive industry, Archroma is introducing DOROSPERS® KHF, a new range of high-lightfast disperse dyes that provide optimum build up on polyester microfiber, including artificial suede for car interiors.

For nonwoven applications in fields such as healthcare, hygiene and filtration, Archroma recommends APPRETAN® FFX6750, a new addition to its range of high-performance zero-formaldehyde acrylic copolymers, and APPRETAN® FFX1540.

APPRETAN® FFX1540 is a new APEO free and formaldehyde free self-crosslinking polymer, medium soft with very low tackiness, and strongly hydrophobic, developed for the chemical bonding of nonwovens and for the coating of technical textiles, where low water absorption and high-water tightness are required, combined with high durability in severe environment.

For workwear and uniforms that protect people under adverse conditions, Archroma solutions include HELIZARIN® ULTRA-FAST, for printing with pigment dispersions and metallic pigments, and the new ALBAFIX® ECO Plus wet fastness improver. Archroma’s PFC-free PHOBOTEX® R-ACE durable water repellent delivers excellent water repellence while preserving fabric quality and ensuring sustainability. Archroma has also expanded the revolutionary AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT range of resource-saving dyes with new colors.

Further solutions for active wear and workwear include the newly launched bio-based PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 durable water repellent product, which is PFAS free, formaldehyde free and crosslinker free, as well NYLOFIXAN® HFS, a new fixing agent for polyamide and blends that is fully compliant with the latest restrictions on bisphenol compounds.

Archroma is also launching ARKOPHOB® NTR-40 at Techtextil 2024. The company’s first crosslinker with an improved sustainability profile, its monomers are partially derived from renewably sourced, plant-based raw materials. Another new innovation is biocide-free OX20, an odor-neutralizing technology launched by Archroma in partnership with SANITIZED AG.

For home textiles, mills and brands can select ARKOFIX® NZW formaldehyde-free* resin for high whiteness and extraordinary product stability, with no yellowing during storage at elevated temperatures, even over a prolonged period of time. For a super-soft handle, the SILIGEN® EH1 is a vegan silicone macro-emulsion softener with 35% plant-based active content.

Two new research labs are being built by AkzoNobel at its Sassenheim site in the Netherlands to further propel the company’s product development.

Work is about to start on building a technology center for Powder Coatings, while a new polymer lab has just opened which will develop innovative resin technologies for all the company’s businesses.

The total investment in the Sassenheim site – AkzoNobel’s largest global R&D center – amounts to around €8 million. The facility already houses the biggest R&D teams in Europe for the company’s Decorative Paint and Automotive and Specialty Coatings businesses. The addition of the two new labs will help the company further build on its global reputation for product development focused on providing creative solutions for customers.

The recently opened polymer lab – part of the company’s Research organization – will accommodate 15 scientists. It will mainly focus on the development of more sustainable polymer technologies and new coatings to support AkzoNobel’s ambition to halve carbon emissions across the value chain by 2030.

AkzoNobel employs around 3,000 R&D professionals worldwide in 70 laboratories, with more than €1.25 billion having been spent on research and development over the last five years.

Jan Karnath (39), a nephew of Bernd Reifenhäuser (CEO) and Ulrich Reifenhäuser (CSO), is the first representative of the fourth generation to join the operational business of the Reifenhäuser Group. His start paves the way for the continuous development of the family business and reinforces the transformation from machine manufacturer to solution provider: As the company's first Chief Digital Officer, Karnath will henceforth be responsible for and steer the Group's digital transformation.

In his new position as Chief Digital Officer, Jan Karnath is responsible for the strategic and operational development of all Reifenhäuser units whose business model is based on digital products: The tech start-up RE: GmbH, which specializes in connecting entire production facilities, AR:DEL, Reifenhäuser's digital education and learning platform, and R-Cycle, the digital product passport for sustainable packaging. In addition, Karnath is responsible for the Group's overall digital strategy: he will continue to develop the portfolio of digital products and ensure that all relevant digital initiatives are integrated into strategic planning.

Jan Karnath has over 15 years of experience in the digital business. He studied Management in Vienna and Digital Transformation & Innovation at Stanford University. He then began his career at SAP and has since successfully led several digital companies as a board member and founder. Investors in these companies have included EQT and Porsche AG.

In recent years, Italian circular knitting machine manufacturer Santoni (part of the Lonati Group) and Groz-Beckert have worked together to develop a new self-cleaning knitting system for the INNOTAS circular knitting machine. The knitting system is also called INNOTAS and consists of the circular knitting machine needle SAN™ DUO and the corresponding sinker SNK DUO-OL.

Following various preliminary investigations, the go-ahead was finally given in January 2015 for the joint development of a self-cleaning system in the needle area with side-by-side needles and a low shank.

The circular knitting machine needle SAN™ DUO with the sinker SNK DUO-OL was developed to meet the desired requirements. In the knitting system, there are two needles in the needle channel and two sinkers in one sinker channel. The benefits became apparent in initial field trials with experienced end customers in 2016. In the following years, the knitting system was continuously analyzed and further optimized.

The double filling in the needle channel significantly reduces soiling. In addition, the further developed shape of the knitting system ensures that any yarn lint is automatically removed from the machine during the knitting process. This extends the cleaning interval, making work more time-efficient and increasing productivity.

Both the needle SANTM DUO and the sinker SNK DUO-OL are characterized by a particularly low shaft with a predetermined breaking notch. The low shank minimizes soiling, while the predetermined breaking groove enables controlled needle breakage in the event of wear at the desired point. This reduces errors in the knitting process and machine downtimes.

Victoria Beckham's new collection for Mango, which coincides with the brand’s 40th anniversary, will go on sale internationally on April 23th, 2024.
The collaboration is part of Mango’s new 2024-26 Strategic Plan Elevate lever, which aims to reinforce the company’s differential value proposition based on aspirationalism, quality and its unique style.

Mango is teaming up with Victoria Beckham to launch a new capsule collection, which will be available internationally on April 23, 2024. Victoria Beckham x Mango has been designed by Victoria Beckham and reflects the essence of the designer's eponymous label, considered the perfect blend of classic British luxury with a subtle contemporary twist, as well as the shared values of both fashion brands, such as quality and femininity.

The new collection, which coincides with Mango's 40th anniversary, is the latest in a series of collaborations with other brands, artists and talents including SIMONMILLER, Camille Charrière, and Pernille Teisbaek. It follows the latest edition in Mango’s Capsule collection, a collection of eventwear for woman differentiated by the quality of its materials and finishes, which was released in March 2024 after being launched in 2023.

Mango’s collaboration with Victoria Beckham is part of the new Strategic Plan 2024-26, which aims to generate total turnover of more than 4 billion euros by 2026 through a differentiated value proposition, strong expansion drive, and improving sales in existing stores and online channels, as presented by the company last March.

The collaboration supports Elevate, one of the core pillars of the Plan. Elevate focuses on promoting a differential value proposition in all lines through aspirationalism, quality and a unique style designed in Barcelona, with excellent customer service. Since its inception, Mango has a very clear DNA and its own design and style proposal, whose main attribute is a positioning of superior quality to its competitors.

Bemberg™, a brand of cupro fibre by Asahi Kasei Corporation, Japan, announces its collaboration with luxury couture label Anita Dongre to unveil the ‘Azure’ collection.

Anita Dongre, known for her timeless elegance and commitment to sustainability, has integrated Bemberg™ yarn into the ‘Azure’ collection, symbolizing a dedication to responsible fashion practices. Bemberg™ yarn, sourced from Asahi Kasei in Japan, embodies luxury and environmental responsibility.

The ‘Azure’ collection captures the serene essence of the sea, evoking the tranquil ebb and flow of waves against a backdrop of pristine skies. With soft hues and delicate color palettes, the collection introduces a fresh, breezy aesthetic, featuring flowy dresses, kaftans, and elegant sets designed to elevate the simplicity of spring-summer fashion.