From the Sector

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), supported by its Insight Partner, Maersk, has released a new report, Reverse Logistics for Circular Fashion Systems. The report expands on how fashion brands, retailers, value chain partners, and logistics providers can leverage reverse logistics to cultivate an effective and holistic circular fashion system.

The publication is the culmination of extensive research, including consultations with and input from eight experts from eight brands and organisations - Maersk, Nike, H&M Group, Target, PUMA Group, Ellen MacArthur Foundation, VF Corporation, and Circle Economy Foundation. It highlights the critical role of logistics in supporting fashion companies to adopt more circular systems by managing the reverse flow of materials and products from end-users, and returning them back into the system for resale, remaking or recycling, extending their lifecycle, maximising value, and minimising waste.

Over 520 global regulations are currently in place, urging companies to rethink their sourcing and design strategies, emphasising regionalisation and circularity. Moreover 45% of brands surveyed by Global Fashion Agenda and the United Nations Environment Programme earlier this year reported that they have set targets to derive at least 10% of their revenue from circular business models by 2040. However, despite the potential, the fashion industry lacks a comprehensive system for circularity, with current fragmented approaches failing to achieve commercial viability. Deeper collaboration with logistics partners can support more streamlined operations, while aiding compliance with tightening regulatory requirements and in demonstrating positive environmental impacts.

To guide stakeholders, the publication outlines essential elements for implementing effective reverse logistics, including:

• Network design: Expanding reverse logistics beyond consumer returns to capture and valorise post-industrial textile waste flows and unsold goods.
• Financial ownership: Establishing clear financial models to define roles, responsibilities, and profit-sharing, enhancing collaboration and investment.
• Boosting collection volumes: Developing infrastructure for efficient collection and processing of textile waste, essential for scaling solutions and reducing recycled fibre costs.

Cascale, formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, has published a white paper that details how the organization’s Higg Brand & Retail Module (BRM) can help companies meet their regulatory reporting obligations under European Union (EU) law. The paper, titled “How the Higg BRM Supports CSRD Reporting Obligations,” speaks specifically to how the tool is continually evolving to support companies in meeting their regulatory reporting requirements under the EU’s Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD).

In the face of today’s challenging and ever-changing legislative landscape, brands and retailers require reliable tools to support them in meeting compliance requirements. The Higg BRM is the leading framework specific to the textile, apparel, and footwear industry designed for brands and retailers to evaluate, assess, and improve Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) performance. The tool assesses 11 critical impact areas along global value chains to foster a holistic approach to sustainability, and is available on Worldly, a sustainability data and insights platform.

The Higg BRM has evolved to assist brands and retailers in fulfilling reporting obligations, while also supporting companies in the development of consistent corporate sustainability strategies to streamline efforts and reduce redundancy across sustainability initiatives. Beginning in 2024, Cascale conducted a thorough analysis of the European Sustainability Reporting Standards (ESRS), which provides specific guidance on how companies should report on sustainability. Cascale mapped how the standards align with the Higg BRM, offering a clear pathway for organizations aiming to comply with ESRS. As detailed in the white paper, there is a 65 percent content overlap between the ESRS and the Higg BRM.

While the Higg BRM aligns broadly with ESRS on sustainability topics, it also delves deeper into issues that are specific to the textile, apparel, and footwear sector. This focus on sector-specific material issues ensures Higg BRM users can expect a comprehensive tool that not only meets general reporting requirements but also emphasizes the nuances and priorities unique to the industry.

Cascale is currently hosting an ongoing webinar series titled “Navigating Legislation & the Higg Index,” which highlights how the Higg Index tools serve as a valuable resource and can offer specific guidance on reporting requirements. The most recent webinar, co-hosted by Cascale and Worldly, provided an in-depth discussion on how the Higg BRM intersects with key pieces of legislation at the EU level, such as the CSRD.

Cascale is committed to continuously evolving, updating, and refining the Higg Index to meet the needs of its members, Higg Index users, and the industry. In collaboration with Worldly, the Higg BRM will be further refined to enhance alignment with the CSRD and other relevant regulations. By identifying and bridging gaps, the Higg BRM continues to support stakeholders in achieving a more structured and transparent approach to sustainability reporting.

Fashion for Good and its footwear partners adidas, Inditex, ON Running, PVH Corp., Reformation, Target, and Zalando announce a new initiative aimed at accelerating and validating the next generation of footwear innovations. This builds on the organisation’s existing work leveraging their expertise in scouting, validation, innovation and collaboration. This initiative will address the key intervention points needed to drive footwear circularity spanning four work streams across the supply chain from materials to end of use. Industry wide collaboration will be vital to overcome the various roadblocks we face in this space. Therefore, Fashion for Good is launching a call for action, asking all relevant innovators to apply and collaborators to join in the movement.

Around 23.9Bn shoes are produced globally each year, they are often made using over 40 different components from a range of different materials including TPU, EVA, PU and rubber. The industry faces significant challenges due to this high complexity of shoe construction. This combined with a low collection rate, results in a vast majority of discarded footwear ending up in landfills. Fashion for Good sees the need to address this challenge and focus on laying the foundation for footwear circularity as well as accelerating innovation.

Therefore, Fashion for Good will double down their work in this space, building on their existing projects including the Fast Feet Grinded pilot, which tests and validates Fast Feet Grinded's footwear recycling process. Expanding on existing workstreams Fashion for Good will collaborate with our footwear focused partners, including adidas, Inditex, ON Running, PVH Corp., Reformation, Target, and Zalando

To effectively address the challenges in footwear sustainability, Fashion for Good has identified the key intervention points across the shoe lifecycle and structured work into four core workstreams:

1. Materials - Scouting and validating sustainable alternatives for footwear materials including TPU, PU, EVA, leather, and rubber
2. Design - Defining circular design in the footwear space and collectively driving guidelines to build a circular infrastructure
3. End of Use: Sorting, Disassembly, & Recycling - Developing a comprehensive data set on post-consumer footwear waste flows, including (non-)rewearable fractions, volumes, construction and composition. As well as scouting and validating solutions for repair,  end of use, disassembly and recycling of footwear
4. Traceability - Laying the foundation by amalgamating a footwear traceability data protocol to build traceability for evidence to substantiate sustainability claims

CALL FOR INNOVATIONS
Fashion for Good is on the lookout for breakthrough sustainable solutions in the footwear sector that maintain performance and durability. If you have a relevant technology, whether you're an innovator, university, or established company, can apply by 20th September 2024 here.

A navy blue nylon dress, providing elegance and comfort to the wearer while simultaneously highlighting the entire Made in Italy production chain: this is the new project RadiciGroup is presenting at Milano Unica, from July 9th to 11th at the Innovation Forum promoted by the TexClubTec section of Sistema Moda Italia.

The dress is the result of a traceability project led by RadiciGroup, involving different players in the textile sector: from the yarn producer to the fabric manufacturer to the final consumer.

A "tracer" has been inserted into the yarn, which is detectable through a scanner and allows to map the entire garment creation process - both physically and digitally - from the origin of the fibre to the item end of life. Through a QR code printed on the label, all the "stages" defining the outfit's journey can be seen, including the production of the fabric made by another company from Bergamo, Sitip. In this way, the final consumers can learn more about the production sites of what they wear, making more conscious purchasing choices.

At the booth of another Italian textile company, Tessitura Vignetta, visitors will be able to touch several types of fabric made with the "traced" nylon produced by RadiciGroup.

This is another example of how important it is to work transparently and collaboratively in the textile supply chain. Through the traceability of textile products, the goal is to fight counterfeiting and enhance products made in Europe, in line with the principles of the Digital Product Passport under development at the European Union.

The current European Football Championships 2024 in Germany will be played on natural turf, which is very costly to maintain, does not tolerate high frequency of use and has a limited service life of only 6 months in some cases. Artificial turf is easier to maintain and correspondingly popular. In Germany, there are estimated to be more than 5,000 artificial turf pitches and as many as 25,500 across the EU. The drawback: the enormous annual emission of microplastics in the form of infill material, the high CO2 impact and the not environmentally friendly disposal. Researchers in Aachen presented a sustainable alternative: BioTurf is a new artificial turf system made from bio-based polymers that no longer requires polymer infill material!

"Every year, around 500 kilograms of plastic granules are produced per artificial turf pitch, which have to be refilled as infill. This also corresponds to the amount that potentially enters the environment as microplastics per sports pitch," explains Dr Claudia Post from TFI. With an estimated 25,000 artificial turf pitches in the EU, artificial turf in Europe alone produces 12,750 tonnes of microplastics that end up in the environment every year! The TFI - Institut für Bodensysteme an der RWTH Aachen e.V., Institute for Research, Testing and Certification in Europe for Indoor Building Products, has developed the innovative artificial turf system together with the ITA (Institute for Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University) and in collaboration with the company Morton Extrusionstechnik (MET), a specialist in artificial turf fibres.

"New artificial turf pitches will be phased out by 2031 at the latest due to the ban on plastic granules. Even now, artificial turf pitches with infill material are no longer being subsidised," says Dr Claudia Post. For grassroots sports, clubs, cities and local authorities, converting their existing artificial turf pitches will be a mammoth task in the coming years, as artificial turf pitches have to be replaced every 10-15 years. With BioTurf, an environmentally friendly alternative is now available! The surface can be played on like any other, whether running, passing or kicking. Short, heavily crimped blades support longer blades and this simple approach increases playing comfort. BioTurf fulfils all quality requirements and standards for the highest footballing demands.

"BioTurf is an innovative, holistic solution," emphasises Dirk Hanuschik from TFI. "We use rapeseed oil and agricultural waste that does not compete with food production. BioTurf is also almost completely recyclable".
This is in stark contrast to conventional artificial turf, which can currently only be thermally utilised, i.e. burned to generate heat.

As BioTurf does not require the traditional latex process at all, the energy-intensive drying process can be dispensed with, which has a positive effect on the price. Latex is also difficult to recycle. In contrast, BioTurf uses the new thermobonding technology. Here, the thermoplastic pile yarns are thermally fused to the backing. Further development steps still need to be taken in the endeavour to develop a 100% mono-material artificial turf, as a few percent polypropylene still needs to be processed in the backing in addition to the polyethylene fibre material in order to protect it during thermobonding. However, this does not hinder its recyclability.

The Lectra Group company announced a new collaboration between TextileGenesis, the textile traceability platform and the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®). It will enable the implementation, via the TextileGenesis platform, of new solutions to ensure the traceability of cellulose fibers from responsibly managed forests.

In fashion, many textiles such as viscose, lyocell and modal use man-made cellulose fibers. These fibers are themselves made from wood pulp, the production of which can contribute to deforestation.

Founded in 1994, the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®) is an international NGO whose mission is to promote responsible forest management worldwide. In particular, the organization offers certification for products and raw materials which have been obtained from wood grown in responsibly managed forests, and comes from supply chains where social rights of workers, communities and indigenous peoples have been safeguarded.

Amit Gautam, founder and CEO of TextileGenesis, explains: "We've already been working with Man Made Cellulosic Fiber Producers for several years to facilitate, thanks to our blockchain-inspired technology, the traceability of fibers manufactured by the most virtuous producers, and we've integrated their analysis criteria into our platform. By also becoming an FSC® partner today, we're taking things a step further. This new collaboration will support companies in the traceability of FSC certified fibers and support the administration and data management of FSC Chain of Custody certification. All players in the value chain will benefit from increased transparency and much more reliable upstream data. Fashion brands will be able to demonstrate much more easily that their garments use textiles made from responsibly sourced man-made cellulose fibers."

Fabian Farkas, FSC International Chief Commercial Director, adds: “We are seeing a rapid increase in interest in FSC certification from the textile industry, marking a very positive trend. Through this collaboration with TextileGenesis, we aim to simplify the administrative part of FSC certification for companies within the textile supply chain by automating many required data processes. Our goal is to empower brands to identify opportunities for seamless progress in meeting their FSC procurement policies.”

Following the signature in October 2023 of a memorandum of understanding with the International Cotton Association (ICA) and the launch last January of two consortiums with footwear and leather players, and more recently the announcement of its partnership with the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF), the initiator of The Good Cashmere Standard® (GCS), TextileGenesis confirms, with this new collaboration with the FSC®, its central place in the ecosystem of players mobilizing for more sustainable and responsible fashion.

The Fashion for Good Museum publishes its legacy document. The report was prompted by the museum’s closure on June 5th, 2024. It represents the museum’s mission, summarising invaluable insights gathered over six years and key results such as reaching 115.000 visitors and creating a dedicated community of more than 250.000 followers online. Committed to transparency and collaboration, Fashion for Good shares its reflections, tools, and transferable learnings, as well as the future of its collections and next steps, continuing to inspire positive change within the fashion ecosystem. All information can be accessed on the Fashion for Good website for continued use and benefit of educators, the cultural sector, and the wider public.

Looking back on its journey, the Fashion for Good Museum celebrates achievements such as hosting 115.000 visitors, including 8.000 students from 200 schools, curating 13 exhibitions, offering over 75 events, launching 4 educational programmes, reaching both current and future generations, and inspiring many to drive change in the fashion industry. With an earned media value of over 46 million Euros through press coverage since 2017, Fashion for Good's influence has been significant, evident in its 250.000 social media followers and 15.000 newsletter subscribers.

The report fulfils the promise Fashion for Good made in 2017 – to share their journey, learnings, and most impactful activities with the world. Within these pages, readers will discover reflections on their messaging, insights about creative partnerships with entities such as Lowlands Festival, Dutch Design Week, and Museumnacht to case studies of pioneering exhibitions. Their programming was created around themes and topics, such as the untold stories around cotton, circularity, and the future of biomaterials to educate and inspire visitors, ultimately empowering them to take action themselves.

Reflecting on the output of the museum during its short existence, as well as its footprint and wide reach, while acknowledging the challenges encountered during its establishment and development, Fashion for Good distilled six key lessons from Fashion for Good's sustainable museum practices:

• Recognition of Broader Shift: There is a wider movement towards sustainability in the museum sector, exemplified by Fashion for Good and the new ICOM definition.
• Storytelling for Societal Change: Cultural institutions are crucial in driving societal change in fashion consumption through storytelling.
• Innovation through Limitations: Embracing organisational limitations can stimulate innovation in museum collection management and education.
• Audience Engagement: Understanding and expanding the core audience is essential for effective engagement in sustainability initiatives.
• Measuring Impact: It's challenging to measure impact for organisations with social missions, requiring clear success criteria.
• Establishing a Sustainability Framework: Defining sustainability within context is fundamental for organisational sustainability efforts.

On the occasion of the 15-year anniversary of the inaugural Global Fashion Summit, Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has released a special edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda  — a strategic resource designed to steer fashion organisations towards achieving a net positive industry by 2050. In line with the 2024 theme of Global Fashion Summit, ‘Unlocking the Next Level’, this year’s Fashion CEO Agenda presents five pivotal opportunities for fashion executives and the industry at large to unlock transformative impact for people and planet.

In the 15 years since the inception of Global Fashion Summit in 2009, sustainability has evolved from a peripheral concern to a central focus in the fashion business landscape, prompting significant strides across the industry. Despite this progress, the alarming escalation of global warming and exponential rise in clothing production demand urgent and collective action from fashion industry leaders.

Unlocking the next level of positive impact necessitates a comprehensive understanding of interdependencies and system-wide solutions. The 2024 edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda aims to empower fashion leaders and the wider industry to embrace five key opportunities:

• Operationalising Sustainability
• Redefining Growth
• Activating Consumers
• Prioritising People
• Mobilising Based on Materiality

Drawing from the five priorities of the Fashion CEO Agenda — Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Resource Stewardship, Smart Material Choices, and Circular Systems — this special edition highlights five cross-cutting opportunities that will help achieve the next level of progress on these priorities.

Tailored for fashion brands, retailers, and producers, this edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda differs from previous editions as it focuses on challenging norms and amplifying efforts, and serves as a crucial inflection point for the industry to foster positive outcomes for both society and the environment. By upholding the rights of workers, championing diversity and inclusivity, redefining success metrics, and reshaping growth paradigms, profound transformation is possible.
 
Federica Marchionni, CEO, Global Fashion Agenda, says: “The Fashion CEO Agenda 2024 aims to help leaders to shift their mindset, providing clear unlocks for embracing the challenges for future proofing their businesses and operations. I urgently encourage leaders to work closely with cross-functional teams, use empathy, and a values-based approach that prioritises the planet and the well-being of the people. By doing so, we secure the foundation of our businesses and deliver not only financial returns but also positive impact on the world around us.”

Through renowned events, impact programmes, and thought leadership publications, GFA consistently convenes industry pioneers, shares tangible case studies, disseminates best practices, and highlights practical tools. While recognising the enduring utility of these resources, stakeholders are now encouraged to build upon existing insights and embrace increasingly sophisticated, holistic, and human-centric opportunities to unlock the next level of industry transformation across the entire value chain.

The Fashion CEO Agenda 2024 is an openly accessible resource and available to download at the GFA’s website

As part of a broader initiative to reduce environmental impacts and keep ahead of evolving global chemical regulations, Active Apparel Group (AAG), manufacturer of performance apparel for the leisure/lifestyle and active market, is embracing water-based OEKO-TEX 100 Class 1 Standard Printing Inks in their manufacturing process.

Common and inexpensive inks used in the global manufacture of apparel contain a wide range of toxic chemicals, including phthalates, petroleum-based co-solvents, PVC, and other volatile organic compounds. AAG’s initiative to use OEKO-TEX approved, water-based inks creates benefits for factory workers, people living local to these factories, consumers, and everyone downstream.

AAG offers a range of printing methods to address a variety of customer needs, including:  digital printing, screen printing, and heat transfers for on-garment logos and care instructions. OEKO-TEX certified water-based inks are used for all of its digital printing and for the majority of its screen printing. These non-toxic water-based inks offer a socially and environmentally better alternative to the more commonly used Plastisol inks.

Making a sizable environmental impact, the printing service of AAG’s business is significant. Digital printing averages 25,000 meters per month with screen printing averaging 60,000 garments per month.

The use of water-based inks requires a skilled production team and training of employees is ongoing. AAG currently employs 30 people at its printing operations in Ningbo, China.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) is showcasing solutions for the automotive, building, apparel, filtration and packaging industries at this year’s Techtextil in Frankfurt am Main from April 23 – 26.

Sustainable nonwoven for car seats
One innovation highlight at Techtextil is a novel Polyester nonwoven material for car seat padding. Also available as a nonwoven composite with PU foam, it is not only easier for car seat manufacturers to handle during the mounting process, but also ensures better dimensional stability as well as providing soft and flexible padding. It has a minimum 25 percent recycled content, for example, by reusing nonwoven clippings and waste, and is fully recyclable. Full supply chain transparency enables customers to trace and verify the content of the nonwoven and thus ensures a responsible production process. The Freudenberg experts will also be presenting several other nonwoven solutions made of up to 80 percent recycled materials that can be used in car seat manufacturing.

Biocarrier for green roofs
Freudenberg is showcasing a sustainable carrier material for green roofs on urban buildings at the trade fair. The carrier is made from polylactide, i.e. from renewable resources. When filled with soil, it provides a strong foothold to root systems, enabling the growth of lightweight sedum blankets that can be rolled out to provide instant green roofs. These roofs not only help counter urban heat, they also improve stormwater management and regulate indoor temperatures.

From textile waste to padding
The company extended its circular thermal wadding product range with the release of comfortemp® HO 80xR circular, a wadding made from 70 percent recycled polyamide from discarded fishing nets, carpet flooring and industrial plastic. Because polyamide 6, also known as nylon, retains its performance characteristics after multiple recycling processes, the fibers can be used again and again to manufacture performance sporting apparel, leisurewear and luxury garments.

Packaging solutions with various sustainability benefits
Freudenberg is also showcasing products for sustainable packaging and filtration solutions. The long-lasting Evolon® technical packaging series is a substitute for disposable packaging used in the transport of sensitive industrial items such as automotive parts. The material is made from up to 85 percent recycled PET. A further highlight at Techtextil are Freudenberg’s fully bio-based solutions for manufacturing dessicant bags. The binder-free material based on bio-fibers is also industrially compostable.
In addition, the experts will be giving trade fair visitors an insight into Freudenberg’s filtration portfolio.