From the Sector

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), spanning the entire spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, commended Congress for passing the Fiscal Year 2024 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA), legislation that will help preserve the Berry Amendment supply chain and direct the Department of Defense to expand its procurement of domestically-made textile goods for military use.

“We applaud the House and Senate for getting NDAA across the finish line and are pleased the legislation will now go to President Biden for his signature,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “NCTO sincerely thanks Rep. Don Davis (D-NC) for sponsoring language expressing concern about offshoring textile manufacturing and highlighting the need for the DOD and Defense Logistics Agency (DLA) to procure more domestically-produced textile goods for military use. The language also requires the DOD to report on the feasibility of requiring American-made home textile goods to be used on military installations.”

“We also want to thank Rep. Joe Courtney (D-CT) who sponsored language expressing concern about economic factors impacting the capacity of the U.S. textile industry to meet DOD requirements and calling on the agency to assess labor shortages, contract forecasting and lack of investment in manufacturing capabilities and report back to Congress.”

Finally, this NDAA report language calls for DOD to report to Congress its assessment of the textile industry as it relates to labor shortages, contract forecasting and lack of investment in manufacturing capabilities.

“The domestic textile industry and supply chain are vital to the warm industrial base for the production of critical items that contribute to our nation’s health and safety. It is imperative that Congress and the administration continue to support this industry—a key contributor to our national defense that supplies over 8,000 products a year to our men and women in uniform—through expanded government procurement of American-made items. The NDAA is critical to supporting this manufacturing base,” Glas said.

An EU-wide enforcement project of the ECHA Forum found excessive levels of hazardous chemicals, such as lead and phthalates, in products that are sold to consumers. In total 18 % of the inspected products breached the EU laws.

The national enforcement authorities in 26 EU countries checked over 2 400 products, most of them intended for consumers, and found more than 400 of them breaching the EU’s chemicals laws.

The most common product types breaching the laws were:

• Electrical devices such as electrical toys, chargers, cables, headphones. 52 % of these products were found non-compliant, mostly due to lead found in solders, phthalates in soft plastic parts, or cadmium in circuit boards.
• Sports equipment like yoga mats, bicycle gloves, balls or rubber handles of sport equipment. 18 % of these products were found to be non-compliant mostly due to SCCPs and phthalates in soft plastic and PAH in rubber.
• Toys like bathing/aquatic toys, dolls, costumes, play mats, plastic figures, fidget toys, outdoor toys, slime and childcare articles. 16 % of non-electric toys were found to be non-compliant, mostly due to phthalates found in soft plastic parts, but also other restricted substances such as PAHs, nickel, boron or nitrosamines.
• Fashion products such as bags, jewellery, belts, shoes and clothes. 15 % of these products were found non-compliant due to the phthalates, lead and cadmium they contained.

In cases where non-compliant products were found, inspectors have taken enforcement measures, with most of them resulting in the withdrawal of such products from the market.

The non-compliance rate was higher in products which originated from outside the European Economic Area (EEA) or whose origin was not known.

In an initiative aimed at enhancing accessibility to certification for small operator groups within the organic textile value chain, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is pleased to introduce its ongoing Controlled Supply Chain Scheme Pilot Project. The project, launched in 2022, was strategically developed to overcome the obstacles that often deter small-scale operators from pursuing GOTS certification.

Recognising that administrative complexities and financial burdens can impede these operators, the controlled supply chain scheme (CSCS) system was developed to mitigate these challenges. The supply chain requires an internal control and audit system, and small-scale operations benefit from a streamlined ‘group’ certification process, which reduces costs and eases administrative barriers.

Under the CSCS framework, a supply chain comprised of a minimum of eight and a maximum of thirty small-scale facilities, each with twenty or fewer workers, could be considered a single Certified Entity after a comprehensive risk assessment by their Certification Body (CB). SANKEI MERIYASU, a Japanese textile manufacturer, recently received GOTS certification through this project. SANKEI MERIYASU's success showcases the tangible impact of the CSCS system in empowering small-scale operators.

With the pilot due to be reviewed and evaluated next year, GOTS Managing Director Rahul Bhajekar is optimistic about the future of CSCS systems within GOTS. "The controlled supply chain scheme has the potential for substantial impact, empowering small operators in the organic textile supply chain and revolutionising GOTS certification. Our pilot project is proving that the scheme works as intended, overcoming barriers and expanding opportunities. We look forward to refining and validating the CSCS requirements, in hopes of implementing it fully for all markets in the future.”

EURATEX welcomes the unanimous vote in support of the new rules of origin under the PEM Convention, as a historic achievement. Facilitating trade and investments in the “PanEuroMed” region (covering 27 EU member states and 24 partner countries in the neighbourhood region)¹ is top priority region for the EU, as trade with these countries accounted for €677 billion in 2023. For the EU textile and clothing sector, the region represents 35% of its exports and 21% of its imports.
 
In 2013 the European Commission adopted a package of proposals aimed at increasing trade between the European Union and neighbouring countries in the Pan-Euro-Mediterranean (PEM) region. The proposal introduced modernised rules of origin of the PEM convention, lifting the prohibition of duty-drawback and introducing the principle of “full cumulation”.

Today, after ten years of intense negotiations which EURATEX supported, the European Commission reached a full and final agreement with all PEM partners. This is a landmark achievement that will unlock the full potential of the Euro-Mediterranean area as the biggest and most integrated region of advanced manufacturing and trading of sustainable textiles and clothing. The rules adopted today will accelerate the integration of T&C supply chains and boost T&C production and trade within the region, both in the East and Southern borders of the EU. In a moment when companies are looking at moving their production from Asia to nearby, like-minded and more reliable countries , it is very timely to have the PEM Convention implemented.

EURATEX’s President, Mr Alberto Paccanelli, commented: “This is a strategic trade deal that can help European companies recover from the multiple crisis which we face since 2020”. He continued “We call on the European Union to not stop here, but keep up the efforts to secure trade deals that are good for European companies and their competitive position in the world. The next objective should be the adoption of the EU-Mercosur Agreement and a conclusive settlement of all trade disputes with the United States”.    
 
According to Director General Dirk Vantyghem, “today’s unanimous vote in favour of the modernised PEM rules is good news for our industry.. We should now engage with these partner countries to fully exploit the potential of these new rules. EURATEX is ready to engage in an industrial dialogue with the companies from the PEM Countries to facilitate their transition to the new framework”.

¹ The PanEuroMed contracting parties are: the EU, the EFTA States (Switzerland, Norway, Iceland and Liechtenstein), the Faroe Islands, the participants in the Barcelona Process (Algeria, Egypt, Israel, Jordan, Lebanon, Morocco, the territories of West Bank and Gaza, Syria, Tunisia and Turkey), the participants in the EU's Stabilisation and Association Process (Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Republic of North Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, Kosovo), the Republic of Moldova, Ukraine.

The EPTA – European Pultrusion Technology Association in cooperation with the American Composites Manufacturers Association (ACMA) invites you to the 17th World Pultrusion Conference which takes place on 29 February – 1 March 2024 in Hamburg, Germany.

This conference takes place every two years and is the meeting point of the European and worldwide Pultrusion Industry. More than 25 international speakers from Finland, Belgium, Germany, France, Spain, The Netherlands, Turkey, UK, USA, Canada and others will present practical presentations about innovative applications, technologies and processes. Equally current market trends and developments are on the agenda.

This World Pultrusion Conference takes place again in the week before the JEC World Composites Show (5-7 March 2024, Paris).

The program is available here.

Epson hat sein Ziel, ausschließlich Strom aus zu 100 Prozent erneuerbaren Quellen zu nutzen, europaweit erreicht.¹ Weltweit soll diese Vorgabe bis Ende 2023 erfüllt werden. Der aktuelle Nachhaltigkeitsbericht zeigt die Fortschritte des Unternehmens auf seinem Weg, bis 2050 CO₂-negativ zu werden und auf nicht-erneuerbare Bodenschätze zu verzichten.

Der Bericht geht speziell auf folgende Bereiche ein: Dekarbonisierung, technologische Innovationen, die die Branchengrenzen erweitern, soziale Verantwortung und Unternehmensführung. Punkte in dem Nachhaltigkeitsbericht sind unter anderem:

• Die Verringerung von Treibhausgasemissionen (THG-Emissionen): Zwischen 2017 und 2022 hat Epson bedeutende Schritte zur Verringerung des Erdgasverbrauchs unternommen und konnte so den Einsatz und Ausstoß von CO₂ in europäischen Niederlassungen um 51 Prozent senken.
• Dekarbonisierung an unseren Standorten: Der deutsche Hauptsitz ist in ein neues Gebäude in Düsseldorf umgezogen. Dort verbraucht das Unternehmen im Vergleich zum vorherigen Standort pro Quadratmeter rund 75 Prozent weniger Strom.
• Diversität, Gleichbehandlung und Inklusion: Epson setzt sein Engagement für Diversität, Gleichstellung und Inklusion fort (DE&I, Diversity, Equity and Inclusion) fort und etabliert eine Strategie für die Entwicklung von DE&I-Ziele, Kennzahlen und Governance.    

¹ Für die regionalen Vertriebszentralen von Epson in Frankreich, Deutschland, dem Vereinigten Königreich, Italien, den Niederlanden, Spanien sowie für unser zentrales Distributionszentrum in Deutschland.

Diebstahlprävention und effizientes Warenmanagement sind zentrale Maßnahmen, um Verluste und Inventurdifferenzen zu reduzieren. Im neu eröffneten Customer Experience Center von Checkpoint Systems haben Interessierte nun die Möglichkeit, neue Lösungen aus diesen Bereichen in praxisnahen Settings zu besichtigen, zu erleben und sich von Expert*innen vor Ort in Hirschhorn beraten zu lassen. Ein Schwerpunkt des Erlebniscenters liegt auf RFID-Technologien, die ein neues Level an Warennachverfolgung und Informationsübermittlung gewährleisten.

Das Customer Experience Center ist in vier Bereiche aufgeteilt und umfasst unter anderem folgende Lösungen:

• Kassen- und Ausgangslösungen der NEO- und EVOLVE-Reihe
• RFID-Lösungen für bessere Bestandsgenauigkeit sowie Warensichtbarkeit und -nachverfolgung
• Alpha Solutions für besonders diebstahlgefährdete Produkte
• das innovative modulare SFERO-Verlustpäventionssystem zur optimalen Warensicherung
• Labels für spezifische Anwendungsfälle
• RFreshID für den Bestandsüberblick von frischen Lebensmitteln
• RFID für Reuseables wie Mehrwegpackungen
• uvm.

Nach den Forderungen von Südwesttextil nach kurz-, mittel- und langfristigen Lösungen für die Energiepreise, begrüßt der Wirtschafts- und Arbeitgeberverband das Strompreispaket als Schritt in die richtige Richtung. Insbesondere positiv bewertet der Verband, dass die darin vorgesehene Senkung der Stromsteuer auf das EU-Mindestmaß für alle produzierenden Unternehmen gelten soll und der bürokratische Aufwand durch den Wegfall des Antragsverfahrens für den Spitzenausgleich verringert wird.

Von der zusätzlichen Verlängerung der Strompreiskompensation und deren Ausweitung durch den Wegfall des Selbstbehalts profitieren allerdings nur rund 350 Unternehmen, die am stärksten im internationalen Wettbewerb stehen; von der Fortführung des „Super-Cap“ und der Ausweitung durch den Entfall des Sockelbetrags sogar nur 90 besonders stromintensive Unternehmen. Die stromintensive und überwiegend von kleinen und mittelständischen Unternehmen geprägte Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie kann von diesen Entlastungen nicht profitieren und ist weiterhin den Schwankungen der Strompreise ausgesetzt. Damit fehlt aus der Perspektive des Verbands die so dringend benötigte Planungssicherheit für die Unternehmen. „Das Strompreispaket enthält längst überfällige Maßnahmen – wir begrüßen diese, fordern aber für die Zukunft der mittelständischen Wertschöpfung am Standort Deutschland weitergehende Maßnahmen, die die Strompreise auf einem wettbewerbsfähigen Niveau halten und so den Ausbau der erneuerbaren Energien überbrücken“, erklärt Südwesttextil-Hauptgeschäftsführerin Edina Brenner.

Sustainable fashion and sportswear must be high on the political agenda:
Three University of Manchester academics who specialise in fashion and textiles have criticised the Government for failing to take action to boost sustainability in the UK fashion and sportswear industries.

In an article published by the University’s policy engagement unit Policy@Manchester to coincide with the 20th annual Recycle Week, Lindsay Pressdee, Dr Amy Benstead and Dr Jo Conlon highlight that, of the one million tonnes of textiles disposed of every year in this country, 300,000 tonnes end up in landfill or incineration with figures suggesting 10 per cent of global CO2 emissions may come from the fashion industry.

And they warn that the damage inflicted by discarded sportswear is often overlooked, “despite an over-reliance on polyester garments, which are harmful to the environment as the fabric releases microfibres and takes hundreds of years to fully biodegrade.”

Pressdee, Benstead and Conlon stress the importance of establishing “sustainable behaviour throughout the supply chain” and praise the European Commission for proposing an “extended producer responsibility (EPR)” for textiles in the EU which “aims to create appropriate incentives to encourage producers to design products that have a reduced environmental impact at the end of their life.”

This contrasts with the UK where, they argue, “tackling sustainability in the fashion industry has lost its place on the political agenda.”

"We are calling on the Government to reintroduce textiles as part of the school curriculum to engage young people in sustainable materials and equip them with the basic skills required to repair clothes.”
Lindsay Pressdee, Dr Amy Benstead and Dr Jo Conlon

The University of Manchester academics contend that there has been “disappointing lack of progress from the UK Government” following the House of Commons Environmental Audit Committee’s Fixing Fashion report in 2019.

They continue: “This report included a call for the use of EPR as well as other important recommendations such as a ban on incinerating or landfilling unsold stock that can be reused or recycled and a tax system that shifts the balance of incentives in favour of reuse, repair and recycling to support responsible companies. We urge the Government to think again and drive forward the Committee’s recommendations in order to put sustainable fashion back on the political agenda.”

Pressdee, Benstead and Conlon also criticise Ministers for abolishing the standalone GCSE in textiles which provided many young people with the ability to mend clothing such as football kits instead of throwing them away.

They write: “We are therefore calling on the Government to reintroduce textiles as part of the school curriculum to engage young people in sustainable materials and equip them with the basic skills required to repair clothes.”

The University of Manchester has launched a new project dedicated to tackling the impact of textile waste in the football industry through the provision of workshops tasked with transforming surplus football shirts into unique reusable tote bags, whilst educating local communities on the environmental impacts of textile waste and how to extend the life of garments. The initiative aims to provide a fun, responsible way to keep kits in circulation while shining a light on the problem.

• Revenue of US$3.9B, a decline of 1% QoQ and 20% YoY
• EBITDA of US$324M, an increase of 1% QoQ and a decrease of 37% YoY
• Operating cash flows of US$410M
• Net Operating Debt to Equity of 0.97x
• EPS of THB 0.00

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) reported stable third-quarter earnings as the company’s management focuses on conserving cash and improving competitiveness to bolster performance in a continued period of weakness in the global chemical industry.

Indorama Ventures achieved EBITDA of $324 million in 3Q23, an increase of 1% QoQ and a decline of 37% YoY, impacted by a weak economic environment, geopolitical tensions, and continued post-pandemic disruptions in global markets. Sales volumes dropped 5% from a year ago to 3.6 million tons as China recovers from the pandemic more slowly than expected and an extended period of destocking in the manufacturing and chemical sectors continues to normalize from unprecedented levels last year.

Management continues to focus on conserving cash, realizing efficiency improvements, and optimizing the company’s operational footprint to boost profitability. These efforts resulted in positive operating cash flow of US$410 million in the quarter, positive free cash flow of $79 million year to date, and room for further reductions in working capital going forward. The company’s AA- rating was maintained by TRIS in the quarter, with a stable outlook. 

The company expects the operating environment to improve in 2024 as customer destocking continues to ease across all three of Indorama Ventures’ segments. The ramp up of PET and fibers expansion projects operations in India and the U.S. will also contribute to increased volumes.  

Combined PET posted EBITDA of $146 million, a 25% decline QoQ, amid historically low benchmark PET margins, increased feedstock prices in Western markets, and lingering effects of destocking. Integrated Oxides and Derivatives (IOD) segment posted a 27% rise in EBITDA to $119 million QoQ, supported by strong MTBE margins in the Integrated Intermediates business. The Integrated Downstream portfolio’s profitability was impacted by destocking, inflationary pressures, and margin pressure from imports. Fibers segment achieved a 140% increase in EBITDA to $48 million QoQ as Lifestyle volumes grew in key markets in Asia, and the Mobility and Hygiene verticals benefited from management’s focus on optimizing operations and refocusing the organization.