From the Sector

ITMA 2023 was a successful platform for the flat knitting machine manufacturer STOLL to present its latest new developments. The business unit of the KARL MAYER GROUP will be following up this fair on 3 July with the launch of a further innovation package. With the solutions contained in this package, STOLL will be offering its customers additional added value when using their flat knitting machines - in line with the concept of bundling innovations.

The new features include an optimised central lubrication system that reduces both maintenance effort and oil consumption, this as standard from July 2023 for all models of the CMS and ADF series produced in Reutlingen.
Compared to the previous optional variant, it ensures more efficient and comprehensive lubrication. All needle bed elements, from the holding-down jack to the coupling part and intermediate slider to the selection jack, are now supplied with oil. The machine itself recognises whether lubrication is required. Independently of this, the lubrication intensity and oil distribution can be adapted to the individual machine conditions by setting various parameters, if required. To ensure that the required amount of lubricant is reliably supplied, a message is sent if the level is too low.

In addition, a new oil drain container as standard equipment for all CMS and ADF models catches used oil from the needle bed under the machine. This prevents soiling of floors or knitted fabrics. The emptying of the container can be efficiently managed by an adjustable reminder function. The neat and at the same time sustainable solution does not require cleaning agents or hoovers and offers the possibility to reuse the oil after cleaning through special filters, if necessary.

Users of CMS and ADF belt take-down machines can benefit from optimisations around the belt take-down. Thanks to the new STOLL innovation package, this can be turned forwards and backwards by means of a switch as standard in order to easily eliminate fabric wraps and thus reduce maintenance times. In addition, a mirror, which is also fitted as standard, ensures a simple visual check of the belt take-down.

Another solution of the STOLL innovation package from July 2023 includes new cams that enable split-stitch implementation without cam box modification. This reduces manual effort and thus conversion times and costs. The feature is standard on all fine gauges ADF and CMS machines.

For the W machines from STOLL, there is now a further inlay yarn carrier, the Qt, in addition to the previous Qw yarn carrier. The extension means that the number of inlay yarn carriers used in a system can be increased from the previous one to three. No additional system is required for the weft yarn, and the process steps weft yarn insertion and knitting take place in the same system.

Deutschland verfügt bereits heute über ein gut funktionierendes flächendeckendes Sammelsystem für Alttextilien. Gewerbliche Sammler nehmen in diesem etablierten System eine Schlüsselposition ein. Im Vorschlag der EU-Kommission zur Überarbeitung der EU-Abfallrahmenrichtlinie bleibt dies jedoch völlig außen vor, zeigt sich der bvse-Vizepräsident und Vorsitzende des Fachverbands Textilrecycling, Stefan Voigt, enttäuscht.

Die EU-Kommission hat am 05. Juli 2023 den Vorschlag zur Überarbeitung der EU-Abfallrahmenrichtlinie vorgelegt, durch die Herstellern die Verantwortung für den gesamten Lebenszyklus von Textilprodukten auferlegt und die nachhaltige Bewirtschaftung von Textilabfällen dadurch in der gesamten EU gefördert wird. Die EU-Kommission verspricht sich daraus, dass diese Initiative den Ausbau des Sektors für die getrennte Sammlung, Sortierung, Wiederverwendung und das Recycling von Textilien in der EU vorantreiben wird.

„Allerdings bleibt der vorgelegte Vorschlag zur Überarbeitung der Abfallrahmenrichtlinie deutlich hinter den Erwartungen zurück und trägt nicht den seit vielen Jahren etablierten Systemen in der EU und vor allem in Deutschland Rechnung. Mit Sorge betrachten wir das Nichtvorhandensein der gewerblichen Sammler von Alttextilien in dem vorgelegten Entwurf. Denn die gewerblichen Sammler in Deutschland sorgen bereits jetzt gemeinsam mit den Kommunen und den karitativen Organisationen für ein flächendeckendes, gut funktionierendes und für die Bürgerinnen und Bürgern kostenloses Sammelnetz. Dass sie ebenfalls eine Schlüsselrolle haben, sollte nicht außer Acht gelassen werden“, äußerte Stefan Voigt, bvse-Vizepräsident und Vorsitzender des bvse-Fachverband Textilrecycling seine Enttäuschung.

Der Vorschlag der Kommission wird nun vom Europäischen Parlament und vom Rat im Rahmen des ordentlichen Gesetzgebungsverfahrens geprüft.

„Für den bvse werfen die geplanten Vorgaben zur Einführung von Systemen der erweiterten Herstellerverantwortung viele offene Fragen auf. Wir hoffen, dass das Bundesumweltministerium sich im weiteren Gesetzgebungsverfahren dafür einsetzt, den Erhalt der gut funktionierenden Sammel- und Sortierstrukturen in Deutschland zu sichern“, so Voigt weiter.

Dibella supports organic Fairtrade cotton farmers in sourcing non-GMO seeds for the next harvest.

Together with the Chetna Organic cooperative, Dibella has long supported Indian smallholder farmers, on whose fields the organic Fairtrade cotton for the company's sustainable contract textiles grows. To secure the livelihoods of the smallholders, Dibella is taking action this year with a special measure: at the beginning of the new growing season, the company pre-finances the procurement of the genetically unmodified (GMO-free) seeds.

The beginning of the monsoon season (June to September) marks the start of the cotton year in India. The small family farms where the organic Fairtrade cotton for the sustainable Dibella range is grown prepare their fields for sowing. The seeds needed this year come directly from their buyer Dibella. The company organised and co-financed the procurement of the seeds together with the Chetna Organic cooperative.

Ending the debt trap
"At the beginning of the cotton season, smallholder farmers are often forced to take out a loan to finance the seeds they need. For this, very high double-digit interest rates are charged in India, which can lead to excessive debt for families, especially when there are crop failures due to pest infestations or unfavourable weather conditions, for example," reports Simon Bartholomes, Purchasing Manager at Dibella. "We decided years ago to break this vicious circle by pre-financing the genetically unmodified seed. It is procured by our partner Chetna Organic and distributed free of charge to the farming families whose organic cotton is processed into our organic Fairtrade textiles after the harvest. This year we have allocated a sum of USD 50,000 for this purpose.

Win-win situation
This measure offers advantages for all parties involved: Through direct access to the seeds, Dibella enables the farmer families to have a more adequate livelihood. At the same time, the farmers benefit from the expertise of Chetna Organic staff, who support them in organic farming. Dibella, in turn, covers its annual demand for organic Fairtrade cotton with a right of first refusal. This gives the company full control over its entire supply chain, which starts at the cotton field.

With total sales of EUR 1,543 million, generated by over 30 production and sales units in Europe, Asia, and America, Radici Group closed its 2022 financial year with slight growth over 2021. EBITDA reached EUR 157 million in 2022, and net income for the year was EUR 80 million.

“We are moderately pleased with the 2022 figures,” Angelo Radici, president of RadiciGroup, commented. “Despite an unpredictable and challenging year, we were able to achieve positive results. Although the rise in energy costs began to be felt in January, we managed to maintain our position in the first three months of the year due to a significant increase in demand. From the second quarter onwards, the European market experienced a significant slowdown due to the outbreak of war in Ukraine, which exacerbated the already soaring costs of energy and raw materials. The situation was completely out of hand and made worse by the fact that some raw materials were not available. This created significant challenges for us, especially in the chemical sector. We even had to stop operations at our Novara plant in the latter part of the year. Products similar to ours in the nylon supply chain from China and the US were being sold at a price lower than our variable cost.”

The president continues: “At Group level, our internationalisation strategy helped us mitigate geopolitical risks in various countries. As a result, we were able to offset the challenges in the European chemicals and textile markets by leveraging our global presence in High Performance Polymers, where our numbers have held strong. As we began 2023, we regained our footing. However, the global economic and industrial scenario for the rest of the year remains highly uncertain, and forecasts are notably cautious.”

Even in these difficult times, the Group has continued to invest. In 2022, the High Performance Polymers Business Area completed the acquisition in India of the engineering plastics branch of Ester Industries Ltd, a listed company. Additionally, it began installing two new production lines in Mexico and Brazil, and confirmed plans to install a new extrusion line at the Villa d’Ogna production site in the province of Bergamo. These choices align with the Group’s goal of enhancing its worldwide presence and boosting competitiveness in high-potential growth markets. In a year where energy and raw material costs were certainly problematic, operating in geographically diverse markets and with varied applications proved to be an important tool in addressing the challenges. In this vein, a new production site spanning over 36,000 square metres has recently been inaugurated in China. The move is aimed at doubling the production capacity in line with the market’s growth expectations.

Extending the time horizon to 2018-2022, the Group has invested over EUR 277 million to enhance the competitiveness of its companies, implement Best Available Techniques, improve energy efficiency, reduce emissions, and conduct research and development activities aimed at introducing sustainable processes and solutions. These efforts include the research and development activities of Radici InNova, which are heavily focused on the circular economy.

Für zwei Absolventinnen des Master-Studiengangs Textile Produkte der Hochschule Niederrhein gab es gleich doppelten Grund zur Freude: Sie feierten zusammen mit ihren ehemaligen Kommiliton:innen des Fachbereichs Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik nicht nur ihren Abschluss, sondern erhielten auch eine ganz besondere Auszeichnung: Sie nahmen je 1500 Euro Preisgeld für ihre herausragenden Abschlussarbeiten entgegen.

Das Textile and Fashion Network (TFN, der Förderverein des Fachbereichs) unterstützt Franziska Guth, die anderen 1500 Euro stiftet der Verband der Rheinischen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie e.V. an Tabea Hofemeister.

Preisträgerin Franziska Guth hat ihre Arbeit zusammen mit der KARL MAYER GROUP erstellt. Darin befasste sie sich mit den strategischen Herausforderungen von Smarten Textilien. Franziska Guth hat einen kettengewirkten (Maschenware bestehend aus mehreren senkrecht laufenden Fäden) Smart Textile Demonstrator entwickelt. Konkret geht es um einen berührungslosen Bewegungssensor zur Gestenerkennung aus einem Abstandsgewirke mit leitfähigem Garn, der als Steuerungstool für unterschiedliche Anwendungen wie im Automobil-Interieur verwendet werden kann. Er wurde schon 2022 auf der Techtextil in Frankfurt präsentiert. Mit ihrem innovativen Ansatz und ihrem eigens konzipierten Sensor leistete sie einen wichtigen Beitrag zur Entwicklung von Smart Textiles auf Wirkmaschinen.
Guth arbeitet mittlerweile bei der KARL MAYER GROUP als textile Produktentwicklerin und feilt dort weiter an innovativen textilen Strukturen, die sich auf Wirkmaschinen herstellen lassen.

Das Ziel der Masterarbeit von Tabea Hofemeister war es, Methoden einzuführen, mit denen sich die Chemikaliendichtigkeit persönlicher Schutzausrüstung prüfen lässt. Diese fehlten bislang im Bestand der Öffentlichen Prüfstelle für das Textilwesen der Hochschule Niederrhein. Mithilfe des Abrinntests überprüfte sie, ob Flüssigkeit in das Material gelangt oder daran gehindert wird. Zum anderen untersuchte sie, wie beständig die Schutzkleidung gegen das Durchdringen von Chemikalien im Spraytest ist. Auf Basis technischer Anforderungen ermittelte sie verschiedene Optionen für eine Konstruktion der Prüfeinrichtungen und führte sie in das bestehende Qualitätsmanagementsystem ein.
Hofemeister ist derzeit Doktorandin in der Fahrzeugsicherheit bei Volkswagen in Wolfsburg.

Kornit Digital LTD. announced Amaze Software, Inc. – parent company of the Amaze, Spring, and Outfts platforms – has selected KornitX Workflow Solutions and Kornit MAX digital on- demand fabric and textile decoration technologies as the platform to deliver their vision. Combined with the Amaze Creator Commerce Platform, the companies will jointly bring the power of on- demand production and fulfillment to new and existing social media creators, enabling them to better monetize branded products.

Kornit’s Global Fulfillment Network helps companies like Amaze Software connect creators with high-quality garment and textile production fulfillers across the globe. The platform is backed by the KornitX workflow engine, seamlessly integrating across industry-proven Kornit MAX technology- based fabric and textile decoration systems for end-to-end production, visibility, and control.

The  Spring platform offers an opportunity for fans to make purchases directly from where they consume the creator’s content (social platforms including Instagram, TikTok Shops, Twitch, and more). This allows creators to significantly enhance engagement and cultivate a more profound brand presence.

Der Bundesverband Medizintechnologie (BVMed) hat die gesetzliche Einführung eines Beratungsrechts beim Gemeinsamen Bundesausschuss (G-BA) für Hersteller von sonstigen Produkten zur Wundbehandlung begrüßt. Mit dem Beschluss im Rahmen des Arzneimittel-Lieferengpassbekämpfungs- und Versorgungsverbesserungsgesetzes (ALBVVG) wurde zudem die Übergangsregelung um 12 Monate verlängert. „Damit hat der Gesetzgeber noch rechtzeitig reagiert, um Verbesserungen an der neuen Verbandmittel-Erstattungsregelung vorzunehmen und Nachteile für die Versorgung von Menschen mit chronischen Wunden zu vermeiden“, so BVMed-Geschäftsführer und Vorstandsmitglied Dr. Marc-Pierre Möll. Nun sei es wichtig, „dass der G-BA gemeinsam mit Ärzteschaft, Pflege und Herstellern geeignete und auf die Wundversorgung angepasste Evidenzkriterien entwickelt. Mit dem Beratungsrecht gibt es dafür nun die Grundlage.“

Hintergrund ist, das für sogenannte „sonstige Produkte zur Wundbehandlung“ künftig ein Bewertungsverfahren durchgeführt werden muss, bevor sie durch die GKV erstattet werden. Der Gemeinsame Bundesausschuss (G-BA) hat bislang jedoch keine auf die Wundversorgung angepassten Evidenzkriterien für die erstattungsrelevanten Nutzennachweise definiert. Hierzu gewährt der Gesetzgeber nun – analog zu vergleichbaren Verfahren zur Bewertung des Nutzens von Arzneimitteln nach § 35a SGB V (AMNOG) oder zur Bewertung neuer Untersuchungs- und Behandlungsmethoden nach § 137h SGB V (NUB) – betroffenen Verbandmittel-Herstellern ein Beratungsrecht zur Methodik der für die Nutzenbewertung erforderlichen Studien.

Zur Frage der Evidenzkriterien hatte der BVMed kürzlich im Umfeld des Bremer Wundkongresses eine Umfrage durchgeführt, an der sich über 250 Wundfachkräfte beteiligten. Sie zeigte auf, dass es bei den Behandlungen von 92 Prozent der Teilnehmenden zunächst um die Reduktion klinischer Infektionszeichen geht. 79 Prozent nennen die Reduktion von Wundexsudat, 76 Prozent Reduktion von Schmerzen, 70 Prozent die Verbesserung der gesundheitsbezogenen Lebensqualität der Betroffenen. Die Reduktion der Wundfläche steht bei 58 Prozent im Fokus, die Reduktion der Keimlast in der Wunde bei 55 Prozent. Nur 22 Prozent der Befragten nennen auch den kompletten Wundverschluss als Evidenzkriterium. „Wundauflagen mit antibakterieller Wirkung sind für eine phasengerechte Wundversorgung unerlässlich und müssen auch künftig für die Versorgung chronischer Wunden zur Verfügung stehen“, so BVMed-Wundexpertin Juliane Pohl.

Betroffen von der neuen Regelung ist eine Vielzahl von Produkten wie etwa silber- oder PHMB-haltige Wundauflagen, die bislang erstattungsfähig waren. Nach Einschätzung des BVMed sind rund 400 Produkte betroffen.

This season, adidas Originals and the progressive Ukrainian label KSENIASCHNAIDER have come together to present a collaborative collection featuring a host of unconventional garments, footwear, and accessories.

Founded in 2011 by Ksenia and Anton Schnaider, KSENIASCHNAIDER is a Kyiv-based independent fashion house centered on creating boundary pushing ready-to-wear, denim, and upcycled apparel and accessories. Drawing on Ksenia’s design language and Anton’s engineering logic, the partners’ eponymous label continues to challenge established conventions to boldly project a new vision of the future.

The collection is anchored by a host of garments which blend the Ukrainian house’s signature aesthetic with adidas’ instantly recognizable brand codes. First, an array of denim pieces – including jeans, jackets, and shirt dresses – are elevated with frayed edges, voluminous cuts, and idiosyncratic details. Second, fresh takes on a timeless adidas classic stand out as adiColor tracksuits, corsets, and dresses are reworked in a patchwork finish.

The adidas Originals x KSENIASCHNAIDER collection launches on July 1st.

Perlon® - The Filament Company - headquartered in Munderkingen, Germany, which specializes in the manufacture of synthetic filaments for the Paper- Technical Textile - Brush- Personal- and Dental industry, buys Shaun Filaments in Goa, India.

Shaun Filaments is a leading Indian producer of different types of filaments mainly for the Asian market. Perlon® herewith expands its Asian presence and market leadership in the following business segments: Paper Machine Clothing, Advanced Technical Textiles, Technical Brush Filaments and Personal Care.

“With the acquisition of Shaun Filaments, we are expanding our presence in the Asian market and creating a company that is geared towards the global filament industry of the future and we are expanding our market leadership in all segments. Shaun Filaments is a perfect fit for the Perlon® Group with its long-term experience, strong reputation and knowledge in the production of filaments for the Asian market.” states Florian Kisling, CEO of Perlon®.

The Perlon® Group will take over Shaun Filaments with all employees and production lines located in the Shaun Filaments factory in Goa, India.

Following a strong start at the Spring Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles early this year, global industry players have turned their sights to the next international event in August. As the first Autumn Edition to be held in the wake of China lifting many of its pandemic-related border restrictions, the three-day fair will gather around 1,000 international and domestic exhibitors. Traders looking to meet market demand will be able to source from an extensive range of trending and specialised home and contract textile products from 16 – 18 August 2023.

According to a recent market report, the global home textile market is expected to show a CAGR of 5.6% from 2023 – 2028 to reach USD 174.1 billion by the end of the forecast period. Asia-Pacific has dominated the global market in recent years, with China one of its most significant contributors.^[1]

As a manufacturing hub for home textiles, China is gradually recovering from social and business disruptions caused by the pandemic. Speaking at the recent Spring Edition, Ms Rosemary Li, Domestic Sales Manager of Zhangjiagang Coolist Life Technology Co Ltd, a long-time exhibitor specialised in bio-based and functional bedding products, said: “Since China relaxed its pandemic-related control and prevention measures, after Chinese New Year we have been flooded with orders. With both domestic and export orders increasing, it has been almost impossible for the production line to fulfil the order demand.”

While the spring show’s promising visitor flow was a positive start to the Chinese home textile industry’s post-pandemic era, a higher participation of overseas exhibitors and buyers is expected at the upcoming Autumn Edition

The return of special zones and international pavilions
Later this year in Shanghai, exhibitors will showcase their most up-to-date home and contract textile products, ranging from bedding & towelling, rugs, table & kitchen linen, upholstery & curtain fabrics, editors, home textile technologies and textile design. With a wealth of choices for buyers, several show highlights are listed below:

• Editor & Designer Zone: located in hall 5.1, the zone will feature international, high-end editor and designer brands brought by leading exhibitors J&C, Julai, Qianbaihui, Prestigious, Shanghai Lotus, SohoCut, Yada, and more.
• Country and region pavilions: premium suppliers from Belgium, Türkiye and Taiwan (China) will exhibit quality products in their designated pavilions in hall 6.1.
• Textile Designs: textile design studios from Japan, Portugal and Taiwan (China), namely Amilia Design Studio, Fine Art Inc and Tela's Design Lda, will also showcase their seasonal designs in hall 6.1.

Adding to buyers’ sourcing options, a multitude of domestic players from different categories will also showcase their respective products. Highlighted exhibitors include top curtain and curtain fabric suppliers Fu-Tex, Hangzhou Aico, Hexin and Xiaoxuanchuang; bedding suppliers Coolist, Huizhou Wah Shing and Yantai North Home; as well as Hightex, Huatex, Maya and Suzhou Roufang from the upholstery and sofa fabric sector.

Fairgoers can also learn more about the upcoming global trends and designs by visiting the ‘2023 – 2024 Intertextile International Lifestyle Trend’ area. In aid of this, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles has joined forces with NellyRodi™, the renowned French forecasting agency, to present the design theme for 2023 – 2024: ‘ALIVE’. HUMAN CAPITAL, ROUSING COMMITMENT and UNREAL REALITIES are the theme’s three main trends.

^[1] Globe Newswire: Global Home Textile Market Report 2023-2028: Increase in Consumer Spending on Home Renovation and Decoration Bodes Well for the Sector. https://www.globenewswire.com/en/news-release/2023/03/08/2622718/28124/en/Global-Home-Textile-Market-Report-2023-2028-Increase-in-Consumer-Spending-on-Home-Renovation-and-Decoration-Bodes-Well-for-the-Sector.html