From the Sector

Cone Denim®, a leader in denim authenticity and sustainable innovation, launches a new U.S. grown hemp denim collection in collaboration with expert hemp processing innovator, BastCore. Cone is excited to expand its sustainable denim offerings and increase its support of the American agriculture industry, featuring denim made with Alabama hemp and U.S. cotton and dyed with natural indigo grown in Tennessee.

Cone Denim is honored to partner with BastCore, a team that aligns with Cone’s values and its commitment to innovation, quality, sustainability, and traceability. The pioneers at BastCore have created patent-pending technology and a proprietary process that produces clean, mechanically processed, OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certified and USDA bio-preferred hemp fiber out of its operation in Montgomery, Alabama.

Cone’s U.S. Hemp Collection includes a range of fabrics featuring classic 3×1 and comfort stretch to modern workwear constructions. The collection further expands upon Cone’s sustainability and traceability practices, driving the future of the industry. The proximity of the hemp, indigo, and cotton crops in the U.S. to the company’s mills in Mexico is also key in creating the smallest environmental impact and footprint possible.

Hemp offers many key benefits in creating the next level of sustainable denim:

• More than 50% water savings occur, compared to cotton
• No chemicals, wet processing, pesticides, or herbicides are used
• Hemp grows in a variety of soils with excellent biodegradability, is antimicrobial, has high tensile strength, moisture regain content, and tenacity
• Hemp and natural indigo crops have high rates of carbon sequestration, which ultimately benefits the environment and improves the soil’s health for other crops (climate positive)

• Winners in Six Categories to be Announced at IDEA® 2022 in Miami Beach

Online voting for the IDEA® Achievement Awards representing the “best of the best” innovations in the global nonwovens and engineered fabrics industry in six categories will open on Feb. 28.

Industry professionals will have the opportunity to vote for the winners from the finalists and see award-winning achievements in person at IDEA® 2022, the World’s Preeminent Event for Nonwovens & Engineered Fabrics, March 28-31, at the Miami Beach Convention Center.

Presented by INDA, in partnership with Nonwovens Industry magazine, the awards recognize the leading introductions in equipment, raw materials, short-life, long-life and nonwovens products, and sustainability. To vote on the Nonwovens Industry website, visit: https://www.nonwovens-industry.com/idea-reg-achievement-awards

In addition, INDA will unveil the IDEA® 2022 Lifetime Achievement Award honoree and Nonwovens Industry will announce the IDEA® Entrepreneur Achievement Award recipient at the event.  

All of the winners will be announced on March 30 at a ceremony at IDEA® from 9:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. moderated by Dave Rousse, President, INDA and Karen, McIntyre, Editor, Nonwovens Industry.

The INDA Technical Advisory Board, consisting of technical professionals from member companies, has narrowed the competition from more than 100 online nominations to the following 18 finalists selected for their leading innovations since the last IDEA show in 2019.

The industry will have the chance to select their top choices from the three finalists in each of the following six categories through the online voting process:

IDEA® Equipment Achievement Award

• ESC-8 – Curt G. Joa, Inc.
  Imagine endless combinations of insert and chassis designs for adult incontinence production at the push of a button. With patent-pending ESC-8™ Electronic Size Change Technology, JOA has addressed the need for automated product size change. The release of this industry-leading, first-of-a-kind technology gives customers the flexibility to configure endless insert and chassis combinations while maintaining higher production speeds and minimizing raw material usage. The ESC-8™ can be integrated into new and existing machines.
   
• Elastic Thread Anchoring (ETA) Sonotrode – Herrmann Ultrasonics Inc.
  Elastics are an integral component to many hygiene products. Imagine a diaper or incontinence product that is reliable, adhesive-free and extremely soft. Herrmann Ultrasonics Elastic Thread Anchoring (ETA) Sonotrode technology provides just that, in an industry first, easy-to-use closed-loop feedback manufacturing solution. The fixation of the elastic threads is accomplished with ultrasonic energy that offers a wide process window, without the need for tool changeovers, at processing speeds above 2,000 ft./min.
   
• Doffer Airlay Card – Technoplants SRL
  With airlaying suction and a doffing system like traditional roller cards, the Doffer Airlay Card makes it possible to produce carded webs with doffer in thicknesses from 10 to 1.500 gsm. With top and bottom suction, it can produce a partly carded and partly airlaid web. This card can comb, separate and make parallel all types of natural, synthetic and regenerated fibers for applications including hygiene, filtration, medical and gradient acquisition distribution layer (ADL).

IDEA® Raw Material Achievement Award

• sero™ premium hemp fiber – Bast Fibre Technologies Inc.
  sero™ 100 percent premium hemp fibers are the result of years of the company’s top-to-bottom supply chain experience. BFT’s proprietary processing technology is employed to carefully clean, individualize, and soften bast fibers that meet stringent nonwoven technical standards and are plastic-free, tree-free, and compostable. sero™ fibers are a plug-and-play replacement for plastic fibers that run seamlessly on major nonwoven platforms without compromising production speeds, efficiency, or uniformity.
   
• ODOGard – Rem Brands, Inc.
  Rem Brands, Inc.’s patented ODOGard® technology is a revolutionary advancement in odor elimination. This next-generation odor elimination mechanism works by covalent molecular bonding to malodors. Malodors are permanently attached to the ODOGard® molecule, changing them into non-odorous molecules forever. ODOGard® can be impregnated into pulp fluff and other kinds of media. Whether  malodors come from the air or from hygiene products, ODOGard® has it covered.
   
• SharoWIPES™ – Sharon Laboratories
  SharoWIPES™ by Sharon Laboratories, Israel, is a technological breakthrough from in-depth scientific research addressing industry needs for more “clean label, non-irritating, eco-friendly” consumer wet wipes. With their unique anti-biofilm mechanism, SharoWIPES™ offer dual protection from microbial contamination of both the wet wipe formula, as well as the non-woven fabric. SharoWIPES™ preservation systems deliver broad-spectrum protection at low levels contributing to wet wipe brand equity with free from, microbiome friendly, vegan and biodegradable claims.
   

IDEA® Short-Life Product Achievement Award

• MDP™ – Dermasteel, Ltd.
  MDP™ presents a breakthrough approach to restoring the quality of life for men experiencing bladder leakage. MDP™ is a revolutionary nonwoven product for men coping with light urinary incontinence that is invisibly discreet, effective, comfortable, and reliable. It features Body ID Technology™ for customized adjustment, variable elasticity strapping, self-reflexive side panels for unimpeded breathability, form-fitting to the unique characteristics of each man’s anatomy, and the smallest carbon footprint of any comparable male incontinence option.
   
• Organic 2.0 – Ellepot A/S
  In young plant propagation, plastic products are used in large quantities. Ellepot’s new paper is a game-changer supporting plastic exit strategies. During six years in development, Ellepot and Ahlstrom-Munksjö partnered with OrganoClick, the developer of special binders using organocatalysis, a field of chemistry awarded the Nobel Prize in 2021. The product is approved for organic crops in Germany, the UK, Denmark, The Netherlands, Sweden and Canada and certified okay home compostable and biodegradable in soil.
   
• LifeSavers Wipes – LifeSavers LLC
  LifeSavers Wipes are personal hygiene wipes that change color if they detect abnormal health indicators in the urine. The launch product is a diabetic wipe, which will change color if there are abnormal levels of glucose in the urine. The wipes are therefore triple purposed as they assist with personal hygiene after urinating, act as an early warning system, and serve as an instant glucose monitor. UTI and kidney disease wipes are next in line.
   

IDEA® Long-Life Product Achievement Award

• Canopy Hero Pro – Canopy
  Today’s reusable respirators are uncomfortable, limit communication, and can lose effectiveness after cleaning. Disposable options pose similar issues and generate waste. Canopy® has created a next-generation, reusable respirator for healthcare workers that’s comfortable, easy to clean, exceeds federal safety standards, has a transparent front to allow for improved communication, costs less than disposables, and can help save 7,200 tons of waste daily. Its patented, transparent, fully mechanical filter helps protect those who protect us.
   
• Long-Life Cellulose-based Nonwovens for Higher Performance in Reusable Baby Diapers – Kelheim Fibres GmbH and Sumo Diapers
  Innovation exemplified: the trend-setting Sumo Baby Cloth Diaper shows how needle-punched/thermobonded nonwovens find their way into reusable diapers, thanks to Kelheim Fibres’ specialty viscose fibers with adjusted cross-sections (trilobal and hollow). This technology pushes liquid management capabilities and the absorbency of washable hygiene products to new levels, creating a unique duality of high-performance and high-sustainability credentials, and opening up new fields of application.
   
• Nanofiber Cabin Air Filter – MANN + HUMMEL GmbH
  MANN+HUMMEL has developed a hybrid media by combining electret-based spunbond and a pure mechanical filtration layer of ultrafine polymer fibers. The result: an outstanding separation of PM1 particles up to 95 percent, according to DIN EN ISO 16890. This technology enables stable filtration performance and long-term efficiency over the whole filter lifetime. The nanofiber layer can be combined with any cabin air filter media of the MANN+HUMMEL range, improving air quality in a vehicle’s cabin significantly.
   

IDEA® Sustainability Advancement Award

• Pureflow8 – In Flight Material Separator – Diaper Recycling Technology Pte. Ltd.
  New bolt-on additions to the company’s Generation 8 recycling platform guarantee increased performance in terms of material purity and work efficiency. While recovering up to 87 percent of diaper waste raw material’s financial investment, DRT pushes the boundaries further to meet sustainability targets and include active pulp scanning, fluidizing SAP re-gen technology, and gravimetric pulp refeed processes. DRT recognizes its teams and suppliers who have worked tremendously hard to complete this major milestone.
   
• Fitesa® 100 Percent BioBased Bico – Fitesa
  Fitesa® S Bico 100 percent BioBased PE/PLA is a technically sophisticated plant-sourced nonwoven that has been successfully applied in innovative baby diapers as topsheet, backsheet, and front ear components to deliver classic spunbond strength with good abrasion resistance and converting performance. It is responsibly sourced, PE soft, and sustainable, leaving a negative carbon footprint by reducing environmental CO2. It represents the next generation of hygienic nonwovens designed to make work easier and life better.
   
• Fiber-based Screw Caps – Glatfelter Corp. and Blue Ocean Closures
  Finally, an alternative to metal and plastic screw caps! Blue Ocean Closures partnered with Glatfelter and ALPLA to accelerate and produce sustainable and environmentally-friendly packaging solutions. The companies optimized their use of renewable and recyclable wood fibers and airlaid materials by creating paper-based screw caps that are durable, strong, and water-resistant. The method of proprietary vacuum press forming allows for low production cost and high scalability.
   

IDEA® Nonwoven Product Achievement Award

• Sontara® Silk – Glatfelter Corp.
  Sontara® Silk perfectly fits facial contour, is luxurious on the skin, and has a minimal environmental impact. When infused with lotion, these masks have enhanced elasticity, conform closely to the skin, and have excellent adhesion. Sontara® Silk has superior translucency and ensures even penetration of active ingredients onto the skin. Sontara® Silk fabric is manufactured with premium fibers derived from natural raw material. These sustainable materials allow the product to be biodegradable and compostable.
   
• HYDRASPUN® Aquaflo – Sustainable Nonwoven Substrates – Suominen Corporation
  Suominen’s latest moist tissue product, HYDRASPUN® Aquaflo achieves dry tissue dispersibility through a proprietary blend of 100 percent sustainable cellulosic materials, minimizing environmental impact. This flushable nonwoven has a premium hand feel for a luxurious consumer experience. In addition, it passes dispersibility standards set by INDA (GD4) and the International Water Services Flushability Group (IWSFG.) HYDRASPUN® Aquaflo is produced in Europe and North America and represents multi-year development and market insights to deliver a personal care product ideal for today’s consumer.
   
• LS SAF™ Nonwoven Fabrics –Technical Absorbents
  Technical Absorbents developed a new grade of Low Shrink (LS) superabsorbent fiber (SAFTM) for use within a new range of nonwovens that are more resistant to shrinkage. The new LS SAFTM fiber and resulting fabrics were developed in response to demand from the medical industry for a superabsorbent nonwoven suitable for use in advanced wound pad dressings. The new fiber was engineered to be capable of withstanding the moisture used in the EtO sterilization process.

Moving forward after this year, the IDEA® Achievement Award will be presented every two years under the new cycle announced for the event with the subsequent IDEA® taking place April 23-25, 2024.

ANDRITZ will be presenting its innovative solutions for nonwovens production and textile manufacturing at INLEGMASH 2022 in Moscow, Russia, from March 14 to 17.

AIRLAY TECHNOLOGY
Protecting the environment and conserving natural resources require new technologies. In the textile-related industries, the current challenge is to develop industrially and economically viable solutions to use eco-friendly fibers in nonwovens. ANDRITZ focuses on the airlay nonwoven application for hemp fibers (used in mattress production, insulation, ...) and also geotextile end uses.

TEXTILE RECYCLING TECHNOLOGIES
ANDRITZ Laroche is a leading supplier of fiber processing technologies such as opening, blending, and dosing, airlay web forming, textile waste recycling, and decortication of bast fibers. One focus of this product range lies on complete recycling lines for post-consumer and industrial textile waste to produce fibers for re-spinning and/or nonwoven end uses. ANDRITZ will present recycling technologies for end-of-life textile products that can be used in multiple applications, such as automotive, insulation, mattresses, and furniture felts.

Customer awareness and regulations are pushing apparel brands to recycle their textile waste and use the recycled textile fibers in their own products. To support ANDRITZ customers, a team with process know-how is available to conduct customized trials in our advanced technical center located at the ANDRITZ Laroche facilities in Cours, France.

BAST FIBERS
For the demanding Russian market for technologies based on bast fibers, ANDRITZ will present innovative products and the valorization of bast fibers, in particular hemp.
ANDRITZ Laroche is a player in the textile waste recycling sector, with airlay nonwoven technologies but also bast fiber decortication and cottonizing lines.

These eco-friendly fibers are used to spin yarn mixed with cotton, saving cotton as raw material, which reduces the consumption of water, pesticides applied in its cultivation and chemicals used during the dyeing and finishing processes.

After the C.L.A.S.S. recent evolution of its communication tools, they are really pleased to introduce Circular Systems as new C.L.A.S.S. Material Hub partner.

Circular Systems is a California based materials science company, focused on creating a net positive impact on environment, society and economy through innovation. Its circular plus regenerative technologies provide systemic solutions for transforming waste into valuable fibre, yarns, and fabrics for the fashion industry.

Textile waste and agriculture residues are a huge problem, often burned, left to rot in the fields, or sent to landfills creating massive amounts of CO2. Circular Systems is looking at these waste streams as valuable resources, turning problem into a solution by converting them into high value materials for the fashion industry. The “Lightest Touch™“ philosophy, defines their mission to retain maximum amount of embedded energy in waste inputs while creating the “highest-value outputs” with the lowest impacts. Integration of these technologies into global supply chains is key without compromising quality, thus extending the life cycle of these materials.

Circular Systems has three waste-to-fibre platforms that offer an efficient management of textile and agricultural waste:

• The Agraloop™ refines natural fibers derived from agricultural crops into textile-grade fiber called Agraloop™ BioFibre™.  A NEW Natural Fiber mindfully sourced for circularity. With our specialized processing technique, cellulose fiber from stems and leaves are purified into soft fiber bundles ready to spin into yarns. The Agraloop™ processes leftovers from various food and medicine crops including, oilseed hemp/flax, CBD hemp, banana, and pineapple.
• Texloop™ Recycling produces high-quality GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled cotton fibre called RCOT™. Texloop™ preserves fiber quality for the next generation of recycled materials and blends with GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified organic cotton and Canopy approved man-made cellulosics to create near virgin quality yarns for knitting and weaving.
• Orbital™ hybrid yarns create high-quality materials with high-performance, using organic and recycled fiber inputs. Orbital's patent-pending technology produces inherent wicking and fast dry performance materials, even with 50%-70% natural fiber composition, eliminating the need for chemical finishes to create high-performance fabrics.

All Circular Systems yarns are GRS, OCS and/or GOTS certified and are in the process of developing  their own Crop Residue Standard with Textile Exchange that would relate to the Agraloop™ platform technology.

ISKO’s 2023 Collection Vol. 1 is designed to meet the varied needs of today’s consumer by providing fashion, comfort, versatility and responsibility in each of its innovative fabrics. The entire collection is “engineered for nature” using ISKO’s recently launched R-TWO™50+ technology – a process which creates high-quality denim that is less harmful to the natural world.

R-TWO™50+ is the driving force behind ISKO’s efforts to reduce the industry’s impact on the planet. The fabrics are made with a minimum of 50% pre- and post-consumer recycled blend that is entirely Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified. This results in less use of natural resources and a reduced carbon and water footprint of up to 45% and 65% respectively.

ISKO has also incorporated hemp into the collection as a sustainably viable alternative to cotton. Hemp requires much less water, no pesticides and grows quickly in almost any type of soil. New spinning techniques give the fiber a softer hand feel and make hemp a genuinely enticing option to cotton.

2023 Collection Vol. 1 includes ISKO Blue Skin™, Jeggings™, ISKO™ Rigid, ISKO Rigidflex™, ISKO EFD™, Summer Colors, Catwalk, ISKO Reform™, ISKO™ Black, ISKO™ Comfort, ISKO Pop™ – and five macro trends (Denim Nation, New Origin, Isko Reborn, Isko Motion, Chill Zone). These trends incorporate some of ISKO’s key denim technologies to create a versatile collection that complements any style, vibe and mood.

ISKO Reform™, ISKO Blue Skin™ and Jeggings™ are the groups used to create fabrics that are trans-seasonal and one-size-fits-all – subscribing to a philosophy of inclusivity that is valued by Gen Z.

The collection also gives prominence to color groups. ISKO™ Black delivers various shades of black with different elasticity and aspect options. This part of the collection fulfils the perennial need for this timeless color. ISKO EFD™, or ‘Eco For Dye’, is a sustainable approach to producing ecru fabric. This technology shortens the production process and saves on water usage. The result is an ecru-colored base that can be used as is for a natural look or can also be dyed to any color.

New this season are the Summer Colors and Catwalk groups. Summer Colors is inspired by an eclectic mix of influences including natural earth tones, workwear looks or bright colors with authentic, open-end denim constructions. Catwalk is a bold and bright addition to the collection that offers on-trend styles in ISKO finishes including ISKO Urban Jeather™, Pearl Coat and Flashy Finish.

• Textile Exchange report shows growth of preferred fiber and materials market needs to be accelerated
• With post-pandemic fiber production increasing, the transition to preferred fibers and materials must be a non-negotiable decision, notes Textile Exchange.

According to a new Textile Exchange report, the market share for preferred fiber and materials grew significantly in 2020. The Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report 2021 outlines the market for plant fibers such as cotton, hemp, and linen; animal fibers and materials such as wool, mohair, cashmere, alpaca, down, silk, and leather; manmade cellulosics (MMCFs) such as viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate, and cupro; as well as synthetics such as polyester, polyamide, and more.

The report is a unique annual publication about global fiber and materials production, availability, and trends, including those associated with improved social and environmental impacts, referred to as ”preferred.” The comprehensive report includes quantitative data, industry updates, trend analysis and inspiring insights into the work of leading companies and organizations as they create material change.

The results show that between 2019 and 2020 the market share of preferred cotton increased from 24 to 30 percent and recycled polyester from 13.7 to 14.7 percent. Preferred cashmere increased from 0.8 to 7 percent of all cashmere produced while Responsible Mohair Standard certified fiber expanded from 0 to 27 percent of all mohair produced worldwide in its first year of existence in 2020. The market share of FSC and/or PEFC certified MMCFs increased to approximately 55-60 percent. While the market share of recycled MMCFs is only 0.4 percent, it is expected to increase significantly in the following years.

Brands’ increased interest in the use of preferred fibers and materials was also demonstrated by 75 percent increase in the total number of facilities (to 30,000) around the world becoming certified to the organization’s portfolio of standards in 2020. However, the report also notes that despite the increase, preferred fibers only represent less than one-fifth of the global fiber market. Less than 0.5 percent of the global fiber market was from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles.

Indeed, global fiber production has almost doubled in the last 20 years from 58 million tonnes in 2000 to 109 million tonnes in 2020. While it is not yet clear how the pandemic and other factors will impact future development, global fiber production is expected to increase by another 34 percent to 146 million tonnes in 2030 if the industry builds back business as usual. If this growth continues, it will be increasingly difficult for the industry to meet science-based targets for climate and nature.

Textile Exchange aims to be the driving force for urgent climate action, and its Climate+ strategy calling for the textile industry to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 45 percent by 2030 compared to a 2019 baseline in the pre-spinning phase of textile fiber and materials production, while also addressing other impact areas interconnected with climate such as water, biodiversity, and soil health.

Devan Chemicals recently added two more products to its range of bio-based textile finishes. One being a softener, the other one a quick-dry finish. Both are derived from vegetable oils and are in line with the company’s latest innovations on bio-based chemistry.

Due to the Covid-pandemic, serving as an accelerator for a worldwide green economy, the textile industry is increasingly seeking more sustainable and products fit-for-circular programs. According to McKinsey & Company, the textile industry will experience innovation surrounding sustainably sourced raw materials and bio-based chemical additives to accommodate increasing consumer demand.

Devan launched its first bio-based technology in 2019 and is fully committed to making bio-based versions of their existing textile finishes. ‘We have put ourselves on a mission to be able to extend our Bio-Based range further”, says Sven Ghyselinck, CEO of Devan. “We wanted to make an even bigger impact on circularity than before, therefore we looked into what fabric producers use a lot: softeners and moisture management systems. Only by focusing more on the large volume products, can we support the industry to have a bigger impact on sustainability. After the growing success of our natural antimicrobial BI-OME NTL, we are proud to now introduce our new natural Passerelle line”.

Passerelle Soft NTL is a durable softness technology based on vegetable ingredients. The technology is wash durable and can be used with natural fibres like hemp, cotton, but is also fit for synthetic fibres like rPES, PA. The bio content of the technology is above 85% (ASTM D6866-20).

Passerelle Quick-Dry NTL is a moisture management technology also based on vegetable ingredients. This bio-based finish enables high wicking and evaporation capability which helps to evaporate water/sweat easier and faster. The technology is also > 60% (28 days) biodegradable according to OECD 301B.

International technology Group ANDRITZ has received an order from Amarande SAS to supply an elliptical cylinder pre-needler for their plant in Lussac les Châteaux, France. This machine will process shoddy and natural fibers for the production of heavy felts. Installation and start-up of the machine are scheduled for the second quarter of 2021. The new needlepunch production line with the high-performance ANDRITZ cylinder pre-needler will allow Amarande to offer high-quality products and thus open up new market opportunities.

ANDRITZ offers a complete range of elliptical cylinder pre-needlers serving different weights, widths, speeds and punching capacity. Over the years they have become a must for production of heavy products, special applications and also for demanding applications like automotive. They are a key success factor in enabling the subsequent needling machines to process heavy batts smoothly and control the progressive draft through the consolidation process.  

Established in 1990, Amarande is an important French producer of nonwovens, specialized in the production of felt and wadding from recycled textile and natural fibers (wool, cotton, hemp, flax, jute, etc.). The company operates in various markets such as furniture, green spaces, horticultural crops, and insulation.

• An introspective and emotional journey of transformation
• The global leading jersey manufacturer launches a brand-new collection deliberately “raw”, a back to matter, materials and origins as individuals that are able to change and evolve.
   

Another big step of TINTEX Naturally Advanced Evolution

TINTEX has over time established itself as a global leader in smart innovation with its high quality, natural based responsible jersey fabrics using the latest and best sustainable high-tech dyeing and finishing processes, implementing expertly controlled processing to drive material innovation and manufacture a full range of natural based smart materials, optimizing superior and responsible fashion solutions.

The new collection confirms the Naturally Advanced Evolution vision as the right approach:  to work together in a deeper way - textile producers and fashion brands - to develop solutions, innovations with a strong environment-driven approach and cutting-edge technology able to offer contemporary consumer a brand new smart and performing choice.  As result, Raw is a true Naturally Advanced Evolution of the modern human being, explaining a story with no more genders and races, just focused on contemporary values.

The concept behind the AW 21/22 Raw Collection is turning back to nature and to our origins, a journey through emotional, spiritual and physical changes. Thinking about what’s happening around us as planet and individuals in an era of unpredictable challenges, we need to be creative reinventing us every day in different ways, aware of a new society and way of consuming where environment and human needs count.  A unique collection with three different approaches to mix together through a colour palette that goes from raw, dirty beige to a warm pinkish red and a false black-bluish gray.

fluidity, human, natural reconnection. An introspective journey where it’s all about ourselves and who we are. Through light and translucent fabrics, touches of peach and waxes in warm reds and burgundy, we find delicate, natural and extra light fabrics that flow on the skin to symbolically represent the inner fight from who we are and who we want to be. Organic cotton and Tencel™ Modal Micro processed in a special way, are at the center of this stage.
 
raw beauty, reuse, less is more. With this line, the company gives new life to existing articles, showing all the beauty of the raw material and the transformation they went through. This re-transformation of materials reflects the inner transformation; reborn of human beings, of time, of challenges through a new perspective where we reinvent ourselves, home, habits and planet. Our capability, skills to give new life to things it is not something we forgot through time. Organic cotton, Tencel™ Modal Micro, European hemp, Q-Nova® recycled polyamide and ROICA™ EF premium sustainable recycled stretch fiber are the materials boosting th experience.
 
timeless, versatile utility, urban. In a history of deep blues, with clean and dense touches, we come to acceptance, to a future where we relearn to live with what we already had. Organic cotton, Tencel™ Modal Micro and Texloop™ guarantee timeless performed articles, where the high-performance pairs to sustainable process especially at yarn level.

Freedom for ourselves, comfort, flexibility, movement are the concepts the company explores looking not only to sportswear market, but to all the markets where the most comfortable yet performing and responsible materials - from recycled synthetics to organic cotton - are the “right value choice”.

• There is an urban legend that hemp canvas was used to make the very first pair of Levi’s jeans.
• While this is a myth that originated in the counterculture of the 1960s, hemp is without doubt the fibre of the moment for the denim industry.

At the second Kingpins24 virtual denim show that was broadcast from New York on June 23rd and 24th, the sustainable benefits of hemp fibre were referenced by many Monforts customers who are now including it in their collections, including AGI Denim, Artistic Milliners, Black Peony, Calik, Cone Denim, Naveena Denim Mills (NDM) and Orta.

“Hemp is an easy to grow fibre which requires no irrigation, no fertilizers, no herbicides and no chemicals,” says Allan Little, Director of Product Development for Cone Denim, which has recently launched its Sweet Leaf collection featuring the fibre. “Significantly, it also uses fifty per cent or even less water than cotton in cultivation.”

It can also bring some new aesthetics to denim too, he adds.

“Hemp has a unique colour and adds a different cast to our indigo, the drape and texture of the fabrics is different and it even adds  a bit of a unique hand, so combined with its sustainable credentials we are proud to be bringing the Sweet Leaf collection to the market.”

US supply chain

Cone is currently sourcing its hemp from France, but with much of its manufacturing now in Mexico – and with the introduction of the US Farm Bill in 2018 which has legalised the growing of legal hemp – is exploring the possibility of investing in the US supply chain.

“With US hemp we’re really at the R&D phase,” Little emphasises. “It’s a unique crop, so coming up with the right stalk to provide the right fibre is challenging. We’ve experimented with different types of seed and various methods of decortication.”

Decortication, he explains, is the mechanical removal of the outside layer of the hemp stalk to useable fibre on the inside. A second process, cottonization, is necessary to make the fibre suitable for spinning, because compared to cotton, hemp is longer, stiffer, and less flexible.

100% success

At the end of 2019, Naveena (NDM), headquartered in Karachi, introduced fabrics featuring up to 51% hemp content in blends with Tencel and recycled polyester and this year has developed the first 100% hemp denims.

“The response to the fabrics we showed last year was incredible and we were looking forward to the response to this latest development – which everyone was asking for – at the Kingpins show in Amsterdam, which unfortunately was unable to go ahead,” says NDM’s Director of Marketing Rashid Iqbal. “We produced initial samples in an undyed state because we were not sure how the wet spun yarn would react in the dyeing, but I’m happy to say we have had success in this respect and are now able to provide one hundred per cent indigo dyed hemp denim.”

Environmental benefits

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim industry and we have assisted our customers with trials and optimised processing parameters for a range of different fibres, including hemp, both at our Advanced Technology Centre in Germany and at their own mills around the world,” says Hans Wroblowski, Monforts Head of Denim. “Given the environmental benefits of hemp, and the liberalisation of its cultivation in many parts of the world, the interest in it now comes as no surprise. We have the technologies and know-how to help our customers to fully maximise their hemp denims at all post-weaving stages of production.”

Monforts has a dominant position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Montex stenters. It has been enjoying further recent success with its Eco Line concept based on two key technology advances – the Eco Applicator and the Thermo Stretch.

The latest Monforts innovation for denim is the CYD yarn dyeing system. This technology is based on the effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing.

The CYD system also integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. A full CYD line is now available for trials at the company’s Advanced Technology Centre.