From the Sector

A new technique could create waterproof coatings for clothes out of discarded textiles – far safer for humans and the environment than current coatings, which are typically made with harsh chemicals and carcinogens.

A Cornell research group led by Juan Hinestroza, the Rebecca Q Morgan ’60 Professor of Fiber Science and Apparel Design in the College of Human Ecology (CHE), developed the low-temperature technique for synthesis of superhydrophobic, or waterproof, coatings.

“If we can save one piece of clothing from going into a landfill, then that will be success,” said Hinestroza, noting that Americans throw away anywhere from 80 to 100 pounds of clothing per person annually.

Droplets of (left-to-right) soda, water, orange juice, sports drink and milk are shown on a piece fabric with (top) and without (bottom) a UiO-66 metal-organic framework superhydrophobic coating, developed in the lab of Juan Hinestroza of the College of Human Ecology.

The metal-organic framework (MOF) used in the group’s coating can be synthesized at room temperature, using more environmentally friendly solvents (water and ethanol) and can be achieved without separation or purification of the discarded textiles, both energy-intensive processes.

Yelin Ko, a doctoral student in the field of fiber science, is the first author of “UiO-66 Inspired Superhydrophobic Coatings Fabricated from Discarded Polyester/Spandex Textiles,” which published Sept. 21 in ACS Applied Materials and Interfaces. Hinestroza is senior author; Tamer Uyar, associate professor of fiber science in the Department of Human Centered Design (CHE), is the other co-author.

This research is an extension of work published in 2023 demonstrating that old clothing could be chemically broken down to reuse polyester compounds to create MOF particles with potential applications in fire resistance, anti-bacterial properties, or wrinkle resistance. The new work is taking this proof of concept and applying it in a direct way.

In this work, metal-organic frameworks – unique structures pioneered in the 1990s by chemist Omar Yaghi, with whom Hinestroza collaborated on a Department of Defense grant in the late 2000s – were synthesized by chemically decomposing discarded polyester textiles into a heterogenous soup containing molecules of polyester and its monomers, dyes, additives and dirt usually associated with used clothes.

The researchers exposed discarded fabrics to an alkaline depolymerization process to produce disodium terephthalate, a known linker for synthesis of UiO-66, a popular MOF. They conducted experiments using different amounts of ethanol, and found that with a small amount of ethanol, UiO-66 assembled on top of a polyester and spandex substrate, exhibited superhydrophobic behavior.

The fragments of spandex, the group found, modified the otherwise hydrophilic MOF structure and made it hydrophobic. What’s more, the UiO-66 material was subjected to repeated washing and abrasion, and maintained its water resistance.

The group said this technology is one way to reduce the world’s reliance on harmful chemicals in textile manufacturing.

“We must find alternatives to fluorinated finishes, also known as ‘forever chemicals,’” Uyar said. “This study demonstrates how we can achieve functional finishes, including water-repellent and self-cleaning properties, by upcycling textile waste instead of relying on ‘forever chemicals.’”

The “upcycling” aspect of this work is what’s most important, Hinestroza said.

“It’s very easy to blame the brands or blame the producers, but in the end, they will not produce if you don’t consume,” he said. “And whatever is not being consumed is thrown away. And we want to believe that the problem ends in our garbage cans, but it doesn’t.”

This research utilized the Cornell Center for Materials Research Shared Facilities, which are supported by the National Science Foundation. Other support came from the Fulbright U.S. Student Program, which is sponsored by the U.S. Department of State and the Korean-American Educational Commission.

When PERFORMANCE DAYS opens its doors on March 5-6, 2025, at halls C4 and C5 at Messe München, visitors will once again discover fabric innovations for Spring/Summer 2027 across the Performancewear, Bodywear, and Accessories segments. For the first time, a dedicated Wool Forum will be introduced alongside the existing Trend, Footwear, and Bodywear Forums. A jury of renowned industry experts carefully reviewed the submissions for the upcoming season and awarded a total of four prizes.

At the heart of the event, the Trend Forum will showcase the award-winning fabrics for the first time, including the winners of the PERFORMANCE AWARD and the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD. As the dedicated Footwear Area will now only appear at the fall fair, this year’s Footwear Forum will also be integrated into the Trend Forum in Hall C4. Additionally, visitors can explore the first-ever Wool Forum, located in the Wool Area, which mirrors the setup of the Bodywear Forum in the Bodywear Collective.

The jury, led by Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS, along with Clarissa Stadelmann (Product Manager), Jury Head Alexa Dehmel, Regina Goller (Head of Innovation & Future Trends), and guest juror Laura Howe, Fabric Technologist at Mountain Equipment, expressed their enthusiasm for the outstanding submissions.

Sustainability and innovation in focus: Wool makes a grand comeback
The materials were divided into 13 categories, including 3-layer membranes, baselayers, workwear, bags, waterproof 2-layer fabrics, wool, and others. A particular emphasis was placed on this season’s Focus Topic: “Certifications – Which Ones Matter?”. The top 28 fabrics from each category, along with insights from the Focus Topic compiled by CSR specialist Anna Schuster, will be presented in the Trend Forum.

Previous focus topics have significantly elevated the quality of submissions. The Fall 2024 topic, “Colorization: Chemistry is Everywhere,” spurred a rise in the use of bio-synthetic dyes. Meanwhile, the Spring 2024 theme, “The Future of Polyester: Beyond the Bottle,” showcased advancements in textile-to-textile recycling materials.

This year, developments in the categories of Membranes, Safety & Durability (including aramid fibers), and Wool particularly stood out. Wool demonstrated exceptional versatility, being used in applications ranging from windbreakers to shirts. There was also notable growth in materials such as hemp-lyocell blends, recycled polyamide, and multi-component yarns. Two standout fabrics included a “Hulk fabric” featuring color-shifting effects under tension and a luxuriously soft modal-cashmere knit.

The award-winning innovations and highlighted materials will be on display during PERFORMANCE DAYS on March 5-6, 2025, in halls C4 and C5 at Messe München.

Topo Athletic Adopts eVent Fabrics Plant-Positive: Starting in 2024, the Topo Athletic Terraventure 4 WP and Trailventure 2 WP will feature eVent’s sustainable plant-based BIO Footwear technology.

eVent^®️ Fabrics, a global leader in waterproof and breathable fabric technologies, is officially supplying their planet-positive eVent BIO™ Footwear waterproof/breathable laminate to Topo Athletic, leaders in sustainably-minded footwear for walking, running, and hiking.

The eVent BIO Footwear technology is currently being used in the Topo Terraventure 4 WP trail shoe and the Trailventure 2 WP hiking boot. Both shoes offer comfort, performance, and now, an eco-friendly waterproof/breathable membrane.

Designed to withstand any weather conditions, BIO Footwear is a waterproof and planet-positive laminate that combines cutting-edge technology with highly renewable plant-based materials. BIO Footwear offers good abrasion resistance, ensuring your shoes stand the test of time. From rugged outdoor adventures to everyday wear, BIO Footwear is ready to take on any challenge while keeping your feet dry, comfortable, and blister free.

The waterproof version of the lightweight, rugged, and versatile trail runner and hiker, the Terraventure 4 WP is built to take on wet conditions. The upper features an eVent® BIO footwear bootie construction to lock water out, while the tightly woven mesh provides a secure and durable fit. The 25 x22 mm platform combines moderate cushioning with a forefoot rock plate for a comfortable and protective ride. The Vibram® Megagrip outsole offers superior traction and slip resistance on all terrain, especially in wet conditions.

The Trailventure 2 WP’s mesh upper features a full eVent® BIO footwear waterproof bootie construction, while the ZipFoamTM midsole and external TPU heel counter offer comfort and security. Gaiter attachments work with Topo's Performance Gaiter to keep dirt and debris out. The Vibram® Megagrip outsole provides grip on all surfaces, while the full-length ESS rock plate offers protection and stability.

Polartec, a Milliken & Company brand and the premium creator of innovative and more sustainable textile solutions, announced that its Power Shield™ Pro fabric, which incorporates Biolon™* plant-based nylon, has won the 2024 R&D 100 Award in the Mechanical/Materials category. This renowned competition, now in its 62nd year, recognizes revolutionary scientific and technicological innovations from 16 countries. Winners are selected by an expert judging panel of 56 industry professionals from across the world.

Building on the performance legacy of Polartec® NeoShell™ – a 2012 R&D 100 Award winner – Polartec® Power Shield™ Pro is a planet conscious weather protection shell fabric technology, made with Biolon™ nylon. The highly durable, extremely breathable non-PFAS monolithic membrane construction provides 20/20 breathable waterproof protection (20k mm water resistance (ISO 811) / 20k g/m2/24hrs breathability (JIS L1099, B1). As a result, it stops rain and snow getting in, while allowing body moisture to escape. Made to withstand wear and tear for resilience you can rely on, its 48% plant-based content also lowers carbon footprint by up to 50 percent and reduces reliance on fossil fuels without impacting human food sources.

Indeed, Polartec® Power Shield™ Pro is a first-of-its-kind weather protection made from renewable, non-GMO plant-based nylon and an innovative non-PFAS membrane. In addition to being soft, flexible and highly versatile, it offers exceptional durability while delivering a 50% lower carbon footprint than virgin Nylon 6,6, the gold standard against which other nylons are measured. In addition, its chemical free composition is created in a bluesign® certified facility, ensuring its more responsible and sustainable manufacturing. And by mimicking the strength and pliability of traditional nylon, Power Shield™ Pro ensures long-lasting protection in addition to setting a new benchmark for environmentally-friendly performance fabrics.

eVent Fabrics, a company in waterproof and breathable technologies, is looking to the future and offering their partner brands eVent BIO and eVent alpineST technologies. Both are made without PFAS and are compliant with regulations requiring the removal of PFAS chemicals from many consumer products.

eVent BIO
eVent BIO is a bio-based membrane technology that uses sustainable materials to provide all-weather protection and performance. At the laminate technology’s core are renewable plant-based and biomass elements paired with smartly-sourced or recycled face and backer fabrics. Light, tough and flexible, eVent BIO has a reduced carbon footprint and is recyclable when it reaches the end of its lifecycle.

alpineST
alpineST is a sustainable alternative to ePTFE products that provides waterproofness, breathability, and protection in the harshest environments. Created with the planet in mind, alpineST products are built around a fluorine-free membrane laminated to recycled face fabrics. With an initial waterproofness of 25K, alpineST maintains a water column of 20K after dozens of washes.

Tintoria Finissaggio 2000 is one of the most important Italian companies in the textile finishing sector. Founded in 1973 in Masserano in the textile district of Biella, the company offers the complete range of dyeing of all types of fibres, finishing, digital printing, lamination and membrane lining. These processes are used to give fabrics certain properties, such as colour, pattern, softness, shine or waterproofness.

At Tintoria Finissaggio 2000, customers benefit from the fact that all processes are handled under one roof, from design support to the finishing of fabrics, combining decades of experience with the new possibilities of lamination and digital printing. The dyeing plant in Masserano is a state-of-the-art facility that fulfils the strictest environmental standards. In general, Tintoria Finissaggio 2000 continuously invests in state-of-the-art technologies and production facilities in order to achieve high-quality results while ensuring sustainable production processes.

Tintoria Finissagio 2000 also focused on innovation when equipping a new stenter frame. The company opted for the latest development from German machine manufacturer Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG: the Orthopac RXVMC-20 automatic straightening system. The new straightening concept is specially designed for processing textiles with high distortion dynamics, i.e. textiles with highly variable distortion. Two individually controlled and driven straightening modules with a total of three bow and four skew rollers ensure that bow and skew distortions are corrected in small steps. The control concept is also new. A scanner group at the infeed of the straightener detects distortions even before they reach the correction rollers. This means that the rollers are brought directly into position and the fabric is corrected from the very first centimetre. A scanner group at the outfeed also recognises any residual distortion, which is then corrected on the second straightening module.

British technology company Hypetex has been awarded a significant grant from Innovate UK to develop the world’s first technical coloured flax fibre, which will have applications in the sustainable manufacturing of cars, boats and other products that are usually made with carbon fibre.

Called FlaxTex the material is strong, lightweight and 100 per cent biodegradable, having a net positive carbon footprint at point of manufacturing. It can be colourised whilst enhancing its performance properties, with the process adding some important manufacturing attributes compared to standard flax fibre.

As such, FlaxTex’s mechanical properties represent the closest sustainable substitute for robust and lightweight materials like glass fibre and carbon fibre in composite structures.  

The performance of standard flax fibre is often hindered by its high moisture absorption, resulting in reduced structural integrity when used in composite construction. In addition, the natural brown colour of flax has been deemed unappealing for product use.

Flaxtex solves these issues by removing moisture through the colouring process and sealing the fibres, which waterproofs them and enabling their core mechanical properties. Hypetex’s patented nano-pigment technology changes the colour adding an aesthetic quality to the material.  

This colouring process is set to transform industrial design possibilities of Flax natural fibres by enhancing the strength and performance while simultaneously reducing post-processing requirements and total energy usage. This also aligns with Hypetex's commitment to supporting the green transition and helping manufacturers meet government expectations on the path to UK Net Zero targets and the European Green Deal.

Over the course of a 12-month industrial research project, Hypetex will further optimize its resin systems and processes, expanding the use of FlaxTex across various markets.  

FlaxTex has a range of industry uses, including on construction, automotive, sports equipment and furniture products.

HeiQ introduces an anti-odor product addition to its HeiQ Fresh range to eliminate persistent malodor on feather and down products. Biobased HeiQ Fresh for Feather & Down utilizes a combination of pre- and probiotics (synbiotics) which helps to break up the smelly components. This innovation will be showcased at the Techtextil 2024 Swiss Pavilion.

HeiQ Fresh for Feather & Down is a 100% biobased technology engineered to combat the persistent malodor often associated with feather jackets, duvets, and pillows. Developed to address a common challenge faced by manufacturers and consumers alike, this solution represents a leap forward in the field of odor management by removing a significant objection to purchase.

The key issue lies in the natural oil secretion of the duck or goose to provide its natural waterproofing. While essential, this oil becomes the source of the unwanted odors that persist despite conventional cleaning methods. HeiQ Fresh for Feather & Down tackles this problem head-on by harnessing the power of synbiotics (pre- and probiotics).

Through an advanced process, the technology applied during the production stage effectively removes bacterial nutrients present in the feathers and down, thereby preventing the formation of persistent and unpleasant odors. Extensive testing has demonstrated a significant reduction in malodor even after prolonged use, validating the efficacy of this solution. The human sensory testing method according to ISO 17299-1 is the recommended test method.

Polartec® introduces Polartec® Power Shield™ RPM, made from recycled polyester materials and the Polartec® 200, and Micro Series recycled fleeces featuring Polartec® Shed Less™ technology.

Polartec® Power Shield™ RPM is a recycled polyester fabric that offers waterproofness, wind-proofness and breathability, and also ensures high-stretch comfort and resilience. With its high range of motion and highly durable 100% recycled polyester membrane designed for high intensity activities, Power Shield™ RPM elevates end use comfort and is made for runners, cyclists and golfers who refuse to trade performance for sustainability.

Polartec® Shed Less™ technology is an innovative process that decreases fiber fragment shedding during home laundering up to 85%* without compromising the performance or durability of the fabrics it’s applied to. Less shedding means fewer microfiber fragments end up in the oceans and waterways.

Polartec® Micro™ Series is engineered to provide long-lasting comfort in a vast range of conditions and activity levels. This recycled fleece with Polartec® Shed Less™ technology is made from a lofted structure with thermal air pockets to retain warmth without inhibiting breathability. Polartec® Micro™ Series is both hydrophobic and fast drying.

Polartec® 200 Series is the modern version of the original PolarFleece®, which in 1993 became the first performance fleece knit from yarn made from recycled plastic bottles. It has a great resiliency, lightweight warmth and a fast drying time.

adidas TERREX and National Geographic collaborate once again to launch a collection that pays homage to the rainforest supporting National Geographic efforts.

Throughout the collection, images captured by National Geographic photographers are interpreted in different ways on different products, taken through different hues and applied in various ways on garments across the range:

• ADIDAS TERREX | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC RAIN.RDY JACKET – Crafted from waterproofing materials and construction, adidas RAIN.RDY products keep the water out. The jacket also features easily-accessible pockets, a stowaway hood and elongated sleeves with hook-and-loop.
• ADIDAS TERREX | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC WINDSTOPPER JACKET - Made from GORE-TEX WINDSTOPPER, this WIND.RDY jacket is wind-resistant and water-repellent.
• ADIDAS TERREX | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC WINDBREAKER - Using advanced materials, adidas WIND.RDY is designed to resist the wind and provide optimised breathability hikers can feel protected and comfortable.
• ADIDAS TERREX | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC GRAPHIC LONG SLEEVE / SHORT SLEEVE TEE – The long sleeve tee combines technical materials with style beyond the mountain, including Aeroready material that wicks sweat to keep dry and comfortable.
• ADIDAS TERREX | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PANTS - Marry style and functionality by combining outdoor-informed design and street-informed style together, complemented by Durable Water Repellent (DWR) material to stay dry and comfortable.
• ADIDAS TERREX | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SKIRT - Made in adidas' wind and water-resistant WIND.RDY fabric, this skirt is for adventures on or off the trail.

The theme of this season’s drop was inspired by National Geographic’s seasonal focus on educating people around rainforest awareness and conservation.