From the Sector

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel (Freudenberg Apparel) introduces the innovative Film Bonding series. This new line of solutions is expertly designed for advanced sew-free bonding applications, enhancing the manufacturing process with modern efficiency and precision. In conjunction with this launch, Freudenberg Apparel is expanding its Net Bonding and Dot Bonding series, further broadening its range of seamless adhesive solutions to cater to the specific demands of the Stretch Active, Intimate, and Athleisure wear segments.

Freudenberg Apparel's Film Bonding series features a film structure with a high-quality adhesive, delivering robust shear bond and recovery. This enables garments to conform to the body's shape while retaining their shape and integrity after stretching, significantly improving durability and wearer comfort. By eliminating bulky seams, the Film Bonding series also provides a clean, smooth finish to fabric surfaces.

Available in tape form, Freudenberg Apparel's Film Bonding solutions accommodate a wide range of weight requirements from 90 to 220 g/m², including thin options under 80µm. The series offers an array of TPE and TPU variants with varying softness levels from medium to very soft, reducing reliance on traditional stitching and making them ideal for various applications, including stitch-free seam bonding on briefs, bras, vests, and leggings.

Complementing the Film Bonding series, Freudenberg has introduced an innovative oval net structure to its TPE polymer adhesive Net Bonding series. This new structure, in addition to the existing Diamond and Hexagon patterns, offers a diverse selection of net structures suitable for a wide array of applications. The expanded weight range of 50-240 g/m² for the Net Bonding solutions provides versatility for creating breathable, elastic, and well-controlled garments in leggings, sports bras, and intimate apparel.

The Paris 2024 Summer Olympic Games are just around the corner and a global sports frenzy is underway. However, intense summer workouts often lead to sportswear absorbing excessive sweat, becoming clingy and cumbersome, causing discomfort and potentially impacting performance. A research team from the School of Fashion and Textiles at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University (PolyU) has developed the iActive™ sportswear range which features a root-like liquid transport system and a skin-like active perspiration dissipater and utilises nature-inspired, anti-heat textile fabrics to expedite sweat removal, effectively reducing the weight and stickiness of activewear caused by sweat accumulation during exercise.

The human body has millions of sweat glands that are vital for regulating body temperature by dissipating sweat for evaporation to cool the skin’s surface. With unabating greenhouse gas emissions, the number of very hot days annually is expected to increase significantly. This will lead to elevated energy consumption and increased sweating during physical activity and outdoor labour. Even when wearing highly breathable clothes with good sweat-wicking properties, individuals may still experience discomfort due to excessive sweat accumulation.

A research team led by Dr SHOU Dahua, Limin Endowed Young Scholar in Advanced Textiles Technologies and Associate Professor of the School of Fashion and Textiles at PolyU, has invented the iActive™, intelligent, electrically activated sportswear with a nature-inspired active perspiration function.

Its nature-inspired technologies, including low-voltage-driven artificial “sweat glands” created by skin-like anti-heat textile fabrics and a root-like branching liquid transport system that aligns with the body’s sweat map, can actively and programmably remove sweat to a perspiration dissipater at the lower region of the sportswear. The all-textile sweat dissipater is compact and operates at a safe output voltage of approximately 5-9V, and its battery is easy to detach from the clothing, making it convenient for users to repeatedly wash the clothing by hand or in a washing machine to maintain hygiene. When the human body’s sweat rate is low, iActive™ can still be used independently without the battery.

Based on the optimised wettability pattern and gradient, the research team utilises a skin-like textile fabric to transport sweat one-way quickly and dissipate it from the inside to the outside. This feature reduces the stickiness and weight of clothing, improves breathability and ensures the garments remain dry and comfortable to wear. Experimental findings indicate that iActive™ creates a breathable and dry skin microclimate by dissipating sweat at a rate that is three times faster than the maximum human sweating rate. This innovation can also prevent discomfort from coldness and moisture after a workout. In comparison to traditional fabrics, the textile materials in iActive™ are 60% lighter and 50% less clingy when soaked, providing the wearer with all-round comfort and enabling sports enthusiasts and athletes to perform at their best.

Furthermore, a mobile app further aids personalised sweat management by wirelessly adjusting the sweat level of iActive™. This innovation is versatile and can be seamlessly integrated into a variety of textile materials to facilitate sustainable mass production. Beyond sportswear, iActive™ is also well-suited to protective clothing and workwear for individuals engaged in prolonged, high-intensity physical labour and outdoor occupations, including healthcare professionals, construction workers, firefighters, law enforcement officers and others, thereby significantly enhancing their work performance.

Dr Shou Dahua stated, “The extreme weather and high temperatures resulting from global warming have elevated the importance of heatstroke prevention and cooling measures on a global scale. Drawing on the vivid phenomena of thermal insulation and directed liquid flow in nature, we aim to foster innovation and sustainable advancement in garment manufacturing by inventing intelligent clothing and materials to address global challenges. We seek to harness the power of technology to infuse fresh perspectives into the traditional clothing industry, thereby enhancing its competitiveness.”

His research team has also developed a premium fabric named Omni-Cool-Dry™, drawing inspiration from volcano dwelling beetles. This fabric not only provides ultra-fast sweat dissipation and ensures all-day comfort with its dry and breathable features under dynamic thermal conditions, but also reflects solar radiation and emits body heat into the cold universe, enabling passive cooling. The team is working hard to leverage the benefits of both inventions to further enhance the sweat-dissipating and cooling capability of iActive™ sportswear.

Dr Shou Dahua, a core member of the PolyU Research Institute for Intelligent Wearable Systems and the Research Centre of Textiles for Future Fashion, has recently been bestowed with the 2023 Distinguished Achievement Award by The Fiber Society for his outstanding contributions to the fields of personal thermal and moisture management, intelligent wearables and soft robotics. The accolade is presented annually to an individual researcher worldwide. He has also received international innovation awards, including consecutive TechConnect Global Innovation Awards in 2021 and 2022. Moreover, his research papers have been published in various internationally renowned academic journals including Science Advances, PNAS, Advanced Functional Materials, and Advanced Energy Materials. Dr Shou will be chairing The Fiber Society Spring 2025 Conference at PolyU.

adidas introduces its 15-piece SS24 Paris Collection ahead of the 2024 clay season. Built to help players adapt to clay court conditions, the collection includes a core 8-piece range of apparel and footwear to help raise awareness of adidas’ annual Move For The Planet activation.

Designed to be played in seasonably warm Parisian temperatures, the collection features HEAT.RDY technology – breathable and lightweight fabrics that maximize airflow, to help keep players feel comfortable on court. Meanwhile increased mobility is unlocked thanks to adidas’ FreeLift Construction – a paneled fabric structure under the armpits – that enables greater freedom of arm movement during play while preventing the hems from riding up.

The pieces have been intentionally paired back, using zero prints to allow other bolder design features to make maximum impact, through striking color blocking, engineered paneling and textured fabrics. White and black panels on the garments emulate classic tennis court lines, highlighted by black bonding seams, meanwhile a stimulating Orange ‘Spark’ is used throughout to foster a sense of joyful energy for players during high-pressure games.

The collection will be worn by athletes including Caroline Wozniacki , Elina Svitolina, Xinyu Wang, Dana Mathewson, Jessica Pegula, Maria Sakkari, Stefanos Tsitsipas , Felix Auger Aliassime, Jason Wu and Martin de la Puente.

The exhibition “Acquired! Shaping the National Design Collection” at Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, which opened on 16 March, features a STOLL work that has been part of the museum’s permanent collection since 2017.

Visitors can expect more than 150 works that have been compiled from the museum’s collection and new acquisitions since 2017. The selection, which includes works by design pioneers of the recent past, also includes a highly functional balaclava from STOLL.

Blend of design and functionality.
The flat knitted balaclava from STOLL is part of an exhibition area that visualises the defining themes of our time. Alongside a hijab, it stands for considering inclusivity in design. The balaclava offers protection from extreme cold, is stylish and is the result of a combination of creativity and technology.

The balaclava integrates an NFC chip for near-field communication, a heater to warm breathable air, a positive and negative power connector and reflective strips for passive visibility, all knitted directly into the fabric. STOLL’s state-of-the-art flat knitting technology is the basis for straightforward integration. Circuits and conductive yarns can also be incorporated in a fully automated process exactly where they are needed.

Other performance features do not require additional components. A knitted-to-shape 3D design – made possible by the goring technique – offers a perfect fit by following anatomy and eliminating the need for complex tailoring.

In a celebration of Innovation and Swiss identity the three brands Nespresso, Mammut, and HeiQ have joined forces to create the "Extraordinary Jacket".

The Extraordinary Jacket is a testament to Swiss design and innovation. Mammut's super-light Ajungilak® insulation now incorporates HeiQ XReflex technology powered by Xefco, which contains part of the aluminum from recycled Nespresso capsules.

Being up in the mountains comes with significant temperature drops. Mammut, HeiQ and Nespresso have cocreated this high-performance insulation jacket that delivers great heat retention while being breathable, so one can enjoy more time above the tree line.

What makes the Extraordinary Jacket genuinely extraordinary is its ability to retain 20% more heat than a conventional insulation jacket of similar thickness. The innovative HeiQ XReflex 3D aluminized scrim layer reflects the body's heat radiation within the insulation layers, so the wearer doesn’t have to produce more energy to stay warm, resulting in effortless comfort even in harsh and demanding conditions.

KT®, a kinesiology tape brand, launched KT Tape PRO Oxygen – the first kinesiology tape to feature CELLIANT® Infrared Technology from Hologenix. KT Tape PRO Oxygen is designed to increase cellular oxygenation and promote muscle support during physical activity.

The CELLIANT fine mineral powder is a natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals. Printed on the tape’s surface, it converts body heat into full-spectrum infrared energy. This delivers improved cellular oxygenation where tape is applied, bringing more oxygen to the cells and increasing local circulation. Thus, KT Tape PRO Oxygen premium kinesiology tape is super-charged to support muscles and joints through physical activity.

KT Tape PRO Oxygen was designed to allow athletes pushing their physical limits to optimize athletic performance while staying healthy. KT Tape PRO Oxygen’s elasticity allows for a full range of motion that rigid tapes do not and helps to lift the skin for a temporary increase in local blood flow. PRO Oxygen incorporates high strength water-resistant adhesive and ultrabreathable PRO synthetic fibers making it one of the most durable kinesiology tape products on the market.

• Iconic 200 Series fleece to be the first fabric made from this new process.

Polartec®, a Milliken & Company brand, announces Polartec® Shed Less Fleece, a new milestone in its industry-leading efforts to reduce textile fiber fragment shedding. Shed Less is a process that combines yarn construction, knitting, chemistry, and manufacturing to reduce home laundry fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85%. The first fabric to receive this new technology is the brand’s iconic Polartec® 200 Series Fleece, the modern version of the original PolarFleece® launched in 1981, and in 1993, the first performance fleece knit from yarn made from recycled plastic bottles.

The Shed Less process works by engineering the lofted fibers that give fleece its soft hand the ability to resist breaking and rubbing off during home laundering, cited as one contributing factor to the spread of fibers fragments (commonly referred to as microfibers). Polartec® Shed Less Fleece achieves this while maintaining all of the attributes that continue to make Polartec fleece a staple of midlayer collections - lightweight, breathable and warm.

The brand used the AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) TM212-2021 test method for fiber fragment release during home laundering. This test was conducted with large sample sizes to account for variability. The testing concluded that Shed Less Fleece reduced fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85% compared to the baseline fabric.

“In 2016 we began looking into how we might test for fiber loss because there wasn’t a lot of research on the issue.” said Aimee LaValley, Polartec Textile Development, Dye and Chemistry Manager. “This led to new products like Polartec Power Air™, new manufacturing processes, as well as our participation in the TextileMission workgroup to study the issue on an interdisciplinary basis.”

TextileMission was a three year collaborative initiative of academia and industry to reduce the impact of textile microplastics funded by the German Federal Ministry of Education and Research. Founding partners include The Association of the German Sporting Goods Industry, Hochschule Niederrhein - University of Applied Science; TU Dresden - Institute of Water Chemistry; Vaude Sport; WWF Germany; Adidas AG; Henkel AG; Miele & CIE; and Polartec, LLC.

Polartec® Shed Less Fleece will be initially launched in the United States and will be available to customers beginning March 1, 2023. The brand plans to apply the Shed Less process to many other industry-leading fabric platforms and manufacturing facilities around the world.

Inspired by this innate desire to experience nature and a shared vision, adidas TERREX has teamed up with fashion-forward Japanese outdoor label and wander on a collection that will take hikers from city centre to mountain top (and back again) in style.

Since its inception, adidas TERREX has focused on providing people with the clothing and apparel they need to realize their individual goals in the outdoors and enjoy the benefits of nature.

Tokyo designers Keita Ikeuchi and Mihoko Mori, meanwhile, launched their own outdoor label and wander in 2011 to bring more creativity to outdoors wear. By pairing high-fashion design with the practical requirements needed for adventure, theirs is a modern approach to apparel that works both in the wild, and on the streets.  

Together, adidas TERREX and and wander have collaborated on a multi-seasonal collection that ties these philosophies together to help people enjoy more outdoors experiences.

With a striking visual update, the lightweight TERREX Free Hiker 2 offers grip on a range of surfaces, and a responsive BOOST midsole that delivers incredible energy return. With a breathable upper and a sock-like fit that adapts to every step, this supportive shoe made in part with Parley Ocean Plastic is ready for adventure, anywhere.

With the TERREX Free Hiker 2 taking care of the feet, the TERREX XPLORIC and wander COLD.RDY Down Jacket is a functional essential with eye-catching design. COLD.RDY insulating material help keep the warmth in, while prominent TERREX x and wander reflective prints on the jacket and detachable hood help it stand out. With an array of pockets and adjustable features for the right fit, this versatile jacket’s natural habitat is everywhere. It’s also made in part with recycled materials.

adidas TERREX x and wander graphics and reflective detailing have been worked into the rest of an adventure-ready outdoor clothing collection that also includes a TERREX Fleece Jacket, loose-fit unisex TERREX Graphics Hoody and TERREX Pants.

Also available in the adidas TERREX x and wander collection are breathable Merino Wool Hiking Socks made with COLD.RDY technology for snug hiking , a quilted Winterized Bucket Hat, and a lightweight AERO.RDY Hiking Backpack that is loaded with features to look after outdoor essentials.

Monforts has installed and commissioned a new Montex finishing range at the Baltic Works of Halley Stevensons in Dundee, Scotland, to further boost the weatherproofing specialist’s highly flexible operations.

The range, with a working width of two metres, was built at the Montex assembly plant in Austria and consists of a Montex®Coat coating unit in knife execution for paste and foam coating and a Montex 8500 6F stenter.

Founded in 1864, Halley Stevensons has amassed unique technical know-how and manufacturing experience in the art of waxed cotton for weatherproofed fabrics and is able to provide international orders in custom colours and finishes to very low minimum quantities where required. The company exports worldwide and its premium brand customers include Belstaff, Barbours, Filson and J.Crew.

The range has replaced one of the company’s older stenter/coating lines and has already enabled Halley Stevensons to recreate various products with lower coating applications at higher speeds than was previously possible.

Waxed cotton was originally developed by sailors in the early 15th century when Scottish North Sea herring fleets began treating flax sailcloth with fish oils and grease in an attempt to waterproof their sails. Remnants of these sails were used by the sailors as capes to withstand the high winds and sea spray.

By the mid 1850s, sailcloth was being treated with linseed oil, but while initially highly effective, it would yellow and stiffen through weathering over time and eventually lose its waterproofing qualities.

In the years that followed, various treatments were applied to cottons in an attempt to find the most effective weatherproofing solution, and the combination of densely-woven cotton impregnated with a paraffin waxed coating proved most successful. For over 150 years, Halley Stevensons created many different variations of both woven constructions and finishing treatments and now supplies thousands of metres of waxed cotton every year, with each roll produced to custom specifications.

“The beauty of waxed cotton is its durability and longevity,” says Managing Director James Campbell. “The fabrics are breathable, with the wax adjusting to ambient temperatures to be softer and more breathable in warm weather and stiffer and more wind proof in cold conditions.”
While traditional waxes are petroleum or paraffin based, Halley Stevensons has always been comfortable about using a waste product from industry and reusing it to make products that last a lifetime.  

“We are always exploring different finishing techniques and one of our most popular finishes is our hybrid aero – an emulsified blend of waxes,” Campbell says. “This fabric is water repellent but has little wax in the mixture so the handle is much drier to touch than the traditional wet waxes.”

The company has also recently launched a new 100% plant-based wax – Ever Wax Olive – consisting of a blend of olive oil, rape seed and castor bean with comparable water repellence to petroleum and a far better rating than other natural waxes which have come before it.

“The high tradition of skills and fabric innovation imposed by our original guildsmen is still our benchmark standard of honest workmanship today,” Managing Director James Campbell concludes “We use responsibly sourced cotton fabrics and processes that are gentle to the product and low impact to the environment. Our dyeing methods use very low levels of water and our waxes are simply heated up for application and cooled down to store when not in use, meaning no waste discharges. Now, with this new Monforts line, we are also achieving running speeds two-to-three times faster than with the older stenter, combined with less gas usage. It’s proved a great partnership.”

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announces online nominations are now open for the prestigious Hygienix Innovation Award™. The Award recognizes a new product or technology innovation in the absorbent hygiene and personal care sector that uses nonwoven fabrics in novel, technically sophisticated, uniquely creative and expansive ways. The Award will be presented at Hygienix™ 2022, Nov. 14-17 at The Roosevelt New Orleans Hotel, in New Orleans, LA.

Nominees will be selected from a broad range of new products or technologies that have been commercially available at most two years prior to Hygienix™ 2022. Nominees can include end product components, fabrication techniques, or products that use a nonwoven technology in manufacturing. Award categories include feminine care products, diapers, incontinence products, raw materials, equipment technology, reusable products or technologies, and composites or laminates that use nonwovens. Three finalists will present their innovations to over 450 participants at the eighth edition of Hygienix™, the premier event for the absorbent hygiene and personal care markets. The winner will be announced Thursday, Nov. 17.

Last year’s Hygienix Innovation Award™ was presented to Kudos for their Kudos Diaper Subscription Box, a disposable diaper featuring 100 percent breathable cotton touching baby’s skin.