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Schoeller Textil AG
22.11.2022

Transparency for the wool supply chain - partnership between Schoeller and NATIVA

  • Fully traceable and sustainable wool via blockchain
  • Transparent supply chains

Schoeller strives to offer more high-quality fabrics made from sustainable NATIVA™ wool in the future.

The NATIVA™ wool comes from certified farms in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, North America, Uruguay and Argentina. The farms comply with strict levels of animal welfare, and management and ethical work policies. To ensure animal welfare each farmer has a management plan, assessing feeding, breeding, behaviour, animal handling and health and infrastructure. This includes the prohibition of mulesing and stress free shearing.

All following steps such as wool sourcing, combing, spinning and weaving are also monitored and certified to the highest ethical and quality standards. NATIVA™ is the first global wool brand to provide Blockchain traceability from farm to consumer. This transparency in the supply chain, enabled by the NATIVA™ certification and powered by Blockchain, means brands can truly show the journey of their wool.

  • Fully traceable and sustainable wool via blockchain
  • Transparent supply chains

Schoeller strives to offer more high-quality fabrics made from sustainable NATIVA™ wool in the future.

The NATIVA™ wool comes from certified farms in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, North America, Uruguay and Argentina. The farms comply with strict levels of animal welfare, and management and ethical work policies. To ensure animal welfare each farmer has a management plan, assessing feeding, breeding, behaviour, animal handling and health and infrastructure. This includes the prohibition of mulesing and stress free shearing.

All following steps such as wool sourcing, combing, spinning and weaving are also monitored and certified to the highest ethical and quality standards. NATIVA™ is the first global wool brand to provide Blockchain traceability from farm to consumer. This transparency in the supply chain, enabled by the NATIVA™ certification and powered by Blockchain, means brands can truly show the journey of their wool.

A unique QR code is generated for each product of each brand. This code is a connection between the NATIVA™ Blockchain Platform and the NATIVA™ Blockchain Website. Customers can scan the QR code to view the NATIVA™ Blockchain Website, where they can trace in real time the journey of their wool, from farm to brand.

Benefits:

  • Complete transparency over the supply chain and product transformation.
  • End to end traceability.
  • A fantastic marketing tool for any brand.
Photo: Haelixa AG
29.09.2022

Haelixa: Egyptian cotton products traceable thanks to DNA marker

Within the scope of the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) initiative “The Sustainability Pledge”, to improve transparency and traceability for sustainable garment and footwear supply chains, the Swiss company Haelixa traces Egyptian cotton from the source up to premium shirts.

The UNECE and United Nations Centre for Trade Facilitation and Electronic Business (UN/CEFACT) has been developing over the period 2019-2022 policy recommendations, implementation guidelines, a call to action, and a traceability toolbox including blockchain and DNA tracing solutions, which has been implemented in few different textile supply chains. Haelixa is part of the group of experts that develops such policy recommendations and conducts projects with key industry players to set traceability benchmarks and later develop them into standards.

Within the scope of the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) initiative “The Sustainability Pledge”, to improve transparency and traceability for sustainable garment and footwear supply chains, the Swiss company Haelixa traces Egyptian cotton from the source up to premium shirts.

The UNECE and United Nations Centre for Trade Facilitation and Electronic Business (UN/CEFACT) has been developing over the period 2019-2022 policy recommendations, implementation guidelines, a call to action, and a traceability toolbox including blockchain and DNA tracing solutions, which has been implemented in few different textile supply chains. Haelixa is part of the group of experts that develops such policy recommendations and conducts projects with key industry players to set traceability benchmarks and later develop them into standards.

Fashion brands are often responsible for complex global value chains and traceability is the needed tool to enable trust, transparency and credible sustainability. The magnitude of the supply chain traceability challenge can be overwhelming for brands, but the UNECE initiative framework facilitates the alignment with suppliers, provides the necessary guidance and the needed tools, with Haelixa as physical traceability provider.

To make the premium shirts traceable, Haelixa has developed a DNA marker to label the raw material, premium Egyptian cotton. The DNA marker has been applied as fine spray to GIZA 96 lint cotton in Borg Al Arab, Egypt and used to produce the finest fabric by Swiss manufacturer Weba. Once applied to the fibers, Haelixa’s DNA markers stay safely embedded into the material and withstand the industrial processing, ensuring traceability from the source until the finished garment. Samples of lint cotton, yarn, and fabric at different steps were verified with a test based on PCR, and the correct DNA marker was detected, thereby enabling the identification of the premium product, of its origin and the specific supply chain. The forensic data obtained were recorded on a blockchain system provided by UNECE. The marked fabric was used to make Hugo Boss cotton dress shirts. As one of the leading premium fashion brands and partner to the UNECE project, Hugo Boss is responsible for a complex global value chain and strives for high sustainability standards and is looking at traceability options.

“In cases like this one, where the material is of the highest quality and the product is shipped from one facility to another for premium processing, adding physical traceability is critical to ensure that the origin, quality and processing claims can be backed up" says Gediminas Mikutis, CTO and co-founder at Haelixa.

Maria Teresa Pisani, Economic Affairs Officer and Project Lead at UNECE, emphasized: “Traceability and transparency are crucial elements to protect environmental, social, and human rights along global value chains. At UNECE, we aim to enhance traceability approaches by exploring new and innovative solutions that help identify and address negative impacts in the fashion industry.”

12.09.2022

Baumwolle: Herausforderungen Traceability und Rohstoffqualität

  • Digitale Ökosysteme
  • Effektivität lokal vernetzter Wertschöpfungsketten
  • Aus welcher Baumwolle besteht mein T-Shirt?
  • Recycling und Faserqualität
  • 15 Jahre CSITC- Rundest: Ergebnisse und Nutzen

Die Bremer Baumwollbörse und das Faserinstitut Bremen e.V. laden gemeinsam am 29. und 30. September zur 36. International Cotton Conference Bremen ein. Unter dem Motto „Cotton Decoded“ wird den Tagungsteilnehmern sowohl in Bremen vor Ort als auch online über eine Tagungsplattform ein anspruchsvolles Programm mit aktuellen Vorträgen und lebhaften Diskussionsrunden geboten.

  • Digitale Ökosysteme
  • Effektivität lokal vernetzter Wertschöpfungsketten
  • Aus welcher Baumwolle besteht mein T-Shirt?
  • Recycling und Faserqualität
  • 15 Jahre CSITC- Rundest: Ergebnisse und Nutzen

Die Bremer Baumwollbörse und das Faserinstitut Bremen e.V. laden gemeinsam am 29. und 30. September zur 36. International Cotton Conference Bremen ein. Unter dem Motto „Cotton Decoded“ wird den Tagungsteilnehmern sowohl in Bremen vor Ort als auch online über eine Tagungsplattform ein anspruchsvolles Programm mit aktuellen Vorträgen und lebhaften Diskussionsrunden geboten.

Die Europäische Union nimmt Textilunternehmen mit ihrem geplanten Lieferkettengesetz in die Verantwortung. Dies erfordert ein Umdenken im Lieferkettenmanagement. Zusätzliche Herausforderungen entstehen durch Fast Fashion, kürzere Zykluszeiten der Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie sowie Forderungen nach Transparenz und mehr Nachhaltigkeit. Hierbei spielen auch Fragen der für ein Produkt notwendigen Baumwollqualität eine wesentliche Rolle. Mit Methoden der Rückverfolgbarkeit und der Transparenz in Lieferketten sowie den Möglichkeiten zu Beurteilung von Baumwollqualität beschäftigt sich die Internationale Baumwolltagung in ihren Sessions ‚Traceability‘ und ‚Cotton Quality und Testing‘.

Digitale Ökosysteme – was in Zukunft möglich ist!
Gesine Köppe, wissenschaftliche Mitarbeiterin am Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen lässt die Konferenzteilnehmer in das Modell eines komplett digital vernetzten Ökosystems eintauchen. Es bietet völlige Transparenz mit der Möglichkeit der Rückverfolgbarkeit innerhalb der gesamten textilen Produktions- und Lieferkette vom Baumwollfeld bis zum Textil- und Bekleidungseinzelhandel. Die Lösung liegt laut Gesine Köppe in der Anwendung einer ‚Distributed Ledger-Technologie‘ mit der Möglichkeit einer gezielten Dokumentation von ausgewählten Transaktionen, wie man sie in ähnlicher Form auch von Blockchains kennt. Jeder Teilnehmer der Supply Chain gibt für das gesamte Netzwerk sichtbar relevante Informationen in ein dezentral geführtes digitales ‚Hauptbuch‘, wie man es aus der Buchführung kennt, ein. Während des Projekts wird ein ständiges Dokumentations- und Informationssystem eingerichtet, um die vertikale und horizontale Integration der Technologien zu gewährleisten. Somit soll der Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie ein Anreiz durch Kooperation geboten werden.

Baumwolle Usbekistan: Rückverfolgbarkeit von Feld bis zur Spinnerei
Dr. Rinat Gulyaev, Direktor beim Cotton Science-Innovation Center, Tashkent in Usbekistan, stellt in seinem Vortrag ein Projekt vor, das darauf abzielt, Baumwolle und Baumwollprodukte durch digitale Technologie zu identifizieren und zu kennzeichnen. Damit soll eine Rückverfolgbarkeit für die Teilnehmer der Lieferkette von der Baumwollfarm bis zur Textilfabrik geschaffen werden. Dabei kommen moderne internationale Standards und bewährte Verfahren zum Einsatz. Besonderer Wert wird hierbei auf das Zusammenspiel der Digitaltechnologie mit anderen Plattformen im Kontext der digitalen Transformation der usbekischen Wirtschaft gelegt.

Effektivität lokal vernetzter Wertschöpfungsketten
Miriam Paris, Bayer Crop Science, USA, stellt in ihrem Vortrag ein spezielles ‚Field to Closet‘ -Projekt vor, bei dem in Georgia angebaute Baumwolle in Produkten im Medizinbereich Verwendung fand. Die Besonderheit: Die Stoffe für die Berufsbekleidung sind mit dem PROTX2® AV-Schutz des US-Unternehmens Intelligent Fabric Technologies N.A. ausgerüstet. Es handelt sich hierbei um eine antimikrobielle Technologie, die das Wachstum von Bakterien hemmt. Ein Thema, das für den Medizinbereich von hoher Bedeutung ist.

Textil-Tracker: Aus welcher Baumwolle besteht mein T-Shirt?
Gesicherte Herkunftsnachweise sind in der textilen Kette von wesentlicher Bedeutung. Karin Ratovo, wissenschaftliche Mitarbeiterin der Hochschule Niederrhein, Mönchengladbach sowie Markus Bonner, Agroisolab GmbH, Jülich, werden zur Tagung die Untersuchungsergebnisse des Projektes "Textile-Tracker" vorstellen. Agroisolab ist eines der führenden europäischen Laboratorien im Bereich Isotopenanalytik. Im Rahmen der Forschungsarbeit am Projekt wurde analysiert, ob chemische Signaturen von Baumwollfasern in den üblichen Textilverarbeitungsschritten erhalten bleiben. Bei erfolgreicher Validierung besteht die Möglichkeit, eine georeferenzierte Herkunftsdatenbank für Baumwolle und Textilien aufzubauen.

15 Jahre CSITC-Rundtest: Ergebnisse und Nutzen
Seit 2007 organisiert das Faserinstitut Bremen e.V. in Kooperation mit dem International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) und dem US-Landwirtschaftsministerium (USDA) Rundtests zur Standardisierung von Instrumenten-Tests für Baumwolle im Rahmen des Committee on Standardized Instrument Testing of Cotton (CSITC). Es geht um die Überprüfung und Harmonisierung von High Volume-Instrumenten (HVI). Die Ergebnisse von mit HVI-Technik durchgeführten Baumwolltests sind u. a. im Baumwollhandel oder bei Spinnereien gefragt. Deshalb sollte die Prüfung einer bestimmten Baumwollqualität in zertifizierten Laboren international annähernd gleiche Ergebnisse aufweisen. Axel Drieling, Senior Manager Cotton und Mitglied des Vorstands beim Faserinstitut, sowie der neue Leiter der CSITC Task Force und Chefberater für das australische Unternehmen Textile Technical Services, Geelong, Marinus van der Sluijs, stellen die erzielten Fortschritte bei den Tests der letzten 15 Jahre vor. Van der Sluijs strebt an, die Anzahl der Teilnehmer am Rundtest gerade auch auf Seiten der Baumwollverarbeiter zu erhöhen. Dazu werden die Vorteile der Harmonisierung und Überprüfung für die Baumwollproduktion, für den Handel und für die Spinnereien genannt und faktisch untermauert.

Recycling und Faserqualität
Stephan Baz, Leiter des Bereichs Stapelfaser-Technologie am Deutschen Institut für Textil- und Faserforschung, Denkendorf (DIFT) stellt zur Tagung Zwischenergebnisse eines Projekts vor, das Lösungen für die Bewertung von für Reyclingzwecke zerrissene Materialien aus Baumwolle oder synthetischen Fasern mittels bewährter Rohstoffklassifizierung bietet. Im Zuge der Nachhaltigkeitsdebatte ist die Wiederverwertung von Textilien im Rahmen einer Kreislaufwirtschaft inzwischen ein viel diskutiertes Thema. Ziel des Projektes ist es, durch die Optimierung notwendiger Reißprozesse ein für den Spinnprozess qualitativ brauchbares Garn mit möglichst geringem Eigenschaftsverlust herzustellen.

Faserqualität und Entkörnung
Marinus van der Sluijs wirft mit seinem zweiten Vortrag einen Blick auf die Effektivität verschiedener Entkörnungsverfahren bzw. einzelner Prozessstufen bei der Reinigung von Saatbaumwolle. Parallel dazu wurde überprüft, welche Auswirkungen diese konkret auf die Faserqualität haben.
Laut Studie beträgt der durchschnittliche Schmutzanteil von angelieferter Saatbaumwolle in der Regel weniger als 10 Prozent. Im Reinigungsprozess können 20 bis 40 Prozent der Verunreinigungen entfernt werden. Je nach Verfahren fallen aber wesentliche Qualitätsmerkmale wie Längengleichheit, Kurzfaseranteil, Nissenanteil, Dehnfähigkeit, Festigkeit, Feinheit und Reife durchaus unterschiedlich aus. Bei der Auswahl von Baumwolle lohnt es sich, einen Blick darauf zu werfen.

Source:

Bremer Baumwollbörse

Lenzing introduces blockchainenabled traceability platform (c) Lenzing
06.11.2020

Lenzing introduces blockchainenabled traceability platform

  • New level of transparency in the textile industry
  • Building on several successful pilot projects with TextileGenesis™, the digital platform for the traceability across the textile supply chain has now been introduced.

The Lenzing Group, a leading company in the area of wood-based specialty fibers, celebrates another milestone on the way to making the textile and apparel industry more sustainable and transparent. Since 2019, Lenzing has been using the blockchain technology powered by the Hong Kong start-up TextileGenesis™ to ensure the traceability of textiles from fiber to production and distribution. After several successful pilot projects, the digital platform was launched on 5 November for TENCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded fibers. The platform provides customers and partners as well as consumers with an overview across the entire textile supply chain.

  • New level of transparency in the textile industry
  • Building on several successful pilot projects with TextileGenesis™, the digital platform for the traceability across the textile supply chain has now been introduced.

The Lenzing Group, a leading company in the area of wood-based specialty fibers, celebrates another milestone on the way to making the textile and apparel industry more sustainable and transparent. Since 2019, Lenzing has been using the blockchain technology powered by the Hong Kong start-up TextileGenesis™ to ensure the traceability of textiles from fiber to production and distribution. After several successful pilot projects, the digital platform was launched on 5 November for TENCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded fibers. The platform provides customers and partners as well as consumers with an overview across the entire textile supply chain.

With the COVID-19 pandemic, more changes have been brought to the already transforming fashion and textile industries. To date, supply chain traceability has become a top priority for apparel and home brands. With the blockchain-enabled supply chain traceability platform powered by TextileGenesis™, Lenzing supports the entire supply chain in meeting the increasing demand for transparency and sustainability.

Phased onboarding and new digital certificates

A follow-up of a 12-month pilot program and field trials with four leading sustainable brands (H&M, ArmedAngels, Mara Hoffman and Chicks) and supply chain players from 10 countries in three regions, the global roll-out of Lenzing’s blockchain-enabled supply chain traceability platform will be conducted in phases. During the first phase, Lenzing’s supply chain partners based in South Asia (India, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Sri Lanka) will complete the onboarding process within Q4 2020. An estimated 300+ supply chain partners in China and Turkey will also join the program in Q1 2021. It is estimated that by Q2 2021,  most eligible Lenzing supply chain partners will be onboarded into the platform, ensuring full supply chain traceability.

One of the core components of the platform powered by TextileGenesis™ is integration with the Lenzing EBranding fabric certification system, which allows brands and retailers not only to access the full supply chain traceability for TENCELTM and LENZINGTM ECOVEROTM branded fibers but also to view the results of forensic (physical) verification of fabric samples via the digitally signed Lenzing E-Branding fabric certificates. “

Over the past year, during the pilot program and field trials we have been receiving very positive feedback from brands and supply chain partners. Our brand partners have also been encouraging us to accelerate the global roll-out for traceability of Lenzing fibers. With this new system and the integration with Lenzing E-Branding fabric certificates, the entire Lenzing ecosystem will create an unprecedented level of transparency. This will provide consumers with the most sustainable and climate-friendly clothing and home textile products that are made of TENCEL™ or LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded fibers”, says Robert van de Kerkhof, Chief Commercial Officer and Member of the Board at Lenzing.

“With increasing compliance and reputational risks, CEOs and Boards of top 100 fashion brands have committed to using 100% sustainable and traceable fibers over the next 5 years, with transparency being a core part of business priorities. Sustainability and traceability are two sides of the same coin, and it’s great to see Lenzing paving the way for the entire fashion industry to follow. Our supply chain traceability platform will create digital accounting for Lenzing’s innovative and sustainable fibers across the entire supply chain using Fibercoins™ traceability technology”, says Amit Gautam, Chief Executive Officer and Founder of TextileGenesis™.

Fibercoin™ technology to ensure traceability across supply chain

Through using the innovative Fibercoin™ technology of the TextileGenesis™ platform, Lenzing and other brand
partners are now able to issue digital tokens (blockchain assets) in direct proportion to the physical shipments of TENCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded fibers. These digital tokens provide a unique “fingerprint” and authentication mechanism, preventing adulteration, providing a more secure, trustworthy, digital chain-of custody across the entire textile supply chain, and most importantly, ensuring the materials are sustainably produced.

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol (c) U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol
15.07.2020

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol: new traceability tool for US cotton

Starting midth of July, brands and retailers can join the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, a new system for responsibly grown cotton that will provide annual data for six areas of sustainability in line with the UN Sustainability Goals. This year-on-year data available for the first time will allow brands and retailers to better measure progress towards meeting sustainability commitments.

The Trust Protocol underpins and verifies sustainability progress through sophisticated data collection and independent third-party verification. By working with Field to Market: The Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture and Control Union Certifications North America, the Trust Protocol enables brands and retailers to better track the cotton entering their supply chain. Brands who become members of the Trust Protocol will have access to aggregate year-over-year data on water use, greenhouse gas emissions, energy use, soil carbon and land use efficiency.

The Trust Protocol is a complement to existing sustainability programs and is designed from the ground up to fit the unique cotton mass-growing environment of the United States.

Starting midth of July, brands and retailers can join the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, a new system for responsibly grown cotton that will provide annual data for six areas of sustainability in line with the UN Sustainability Goals. This year-on-year data available for the first time will allow brands and retailers to better measure progress towards meeting sustainability commitments.

The Trust Protocol underpins and verifies sustainability progress through sophisticated data collection and independent third-party verification. By working with Field to Market: The Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture and Control Union Certifications North America, the Trust Protocol enables brands and retailers to better track the cotton entering their supply chain. Brands who become members of the Trust Protocol will have access to aggregate year-over-year data on water use, greenhouse gas emissions, energy use, soil carbon and land use efficiency.

The Trust Protocol is a complement to existing sustainability programs and is designed from the ground up to fit the unique cotton mass-growing environment of the United States.

Last month the Trust Protocol was added to Textile Exchange’s list of 36 preferred fibres and materials that more than 170 participating brands and retailers can select from as part of Textile Exchange’s Material Change Index programme.

More information:
cotton supply chain traceability
Source:

Hill+Knowlton Strategies GmbH