From the Sector

At this year's JEC World, STFI will be presenting highlights from carbon fibre recycling as well as a new approach to hemp-based bast fibres, which have promising properties as reinforcement in lightweight construction.

Green Snowboard
At JEC World in Paris from 5 to 7 March 2024, STFI will be showcasing a snowboard from silbaerg GmbH with a patented anisotropic coupling effect made from hemp and recycled carbon fibres with bio-based epoxy resin. In addition to silbaerg and STFI, the partners Circular Saxony - the innovation cluster for the circular economy, FUSE Composite and bto-epoxy GmbH were also involved in the development of the board. The green snowboard was honoured with the JEC Innovation Award 2024 in the “Sport, Leisure and Recreation” category.

VliesComp
The aim of the industrial partners Tenowo GmbH (Hof), Siemens AG (Erlangen), Invent GmbH (Braunschweig) and STFI united in the VliesComp project is to bring recycled materials back onto the market in various lightweight construction solutions. The application fields "Innovative e-machine concepts for the energy transition" and "Innovative e-machine concepts for e-mobility" were considered as examples. On display at JEC World in Paris will be a lightweight end shield for electric motors made from hybrid nonwovens - a mixture of thermoplastic fibre components and recycled reinforcing fibres - as well as nonwovens with 100% recycled reinforcing fibres. The end shield was ultimately manufactured with a 100% recycled fibre content. The tests showed that, compared to the variant made from primary carbon fibres using the RTM process, a 14% reduction in CO₂ equivalent is possible with the same performance. The calculation for the use of the prepreg process using a bio-resin system shows a potential for reducing the CO₂ equivalent by almost 70 %.

Bast fibre reinforcement
To increase stability in the plant stem, bast fibres form in the bark area, which support the stem but, in contrast to the rigid wood, are very flexible and allow slender, tall plants to move in the wind without breaking.A new process extracts the bast bark from hemp by peeling.The resulting characteristic values, such as tensile modulus of elasticity, breaking strength and elongation, are very promising in comparison with the continuous rovings made of flax available on the market.The material could be used as reinforcement in lightweight construction.At JEC World, STFI will be exhibiting reinforcing bars that have been processed into a knitted fabric using a pultrusion process based on bio-based reinforcing fibres made from hemp bast for mineral matrices.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, will join the ISSA – The Worldwide Cleaning Industry Association to host the 2024 Clean Advocacy Summit, April 10-11, in Washington, D.C. This advocacy and fly-in summit will offer participants the “inside scoop” on the key public policy issues facing their industry, including labor and supply chain challenges, cleaning product regulations, promoting healthy workplaces, ending period poverty, and more.

The summit will include networking opportunities and scheduled meetings with members of Congress and their staff to discuss key policies and legislation pertaining to the nonwovens industry. Attendees will have the chance to advocate for their businesses to support innovation, growth, and sustainability within the industry, while also highlighting their contributions to economic development and job creation.

HeiQ AeoniQ Holding, a subsidiary of HeiQ Group, is appointing Julien Born as its CEO, leveraging his extensive executive leadership and profound textile industry expertise cultivated in prestigious organizations such as DuPont, KOCH Industries, and The LYCRA Company, where he served as CEO since 2021. Julien Born will champion the growth of the cellulosic filament fiber HeiQ AeoniQ™.

The HeiQ AeoniQ™ technology is poised for commercial production at the inaugural manufacturing facility in Portugal by the close of 2025. The just concluded €5M acquisition of land and buildings, within a 2-year project total investment of €80M, marks a pivotal milestone for the 15,000m2 facility in Maia, Porto. Situated strategically in Portugal's textile hub and a mere 20 minutes from a major commercial port, this facility is poised to catalyze the scale-up phase of the business, going from pilot manufacture to mass production when it wants to compete at full-scale on cost and performance with fossil fuel-based fibers.

HeiQ intends to consolidate the Group’s current and future activities in Portugal at the newly acquired site. This includes Shared Service Center functions as well as the Innovation Hub for the HeiQ Textile & Flooring business unit.

The recent addition of Julien Born to lead the charge follows the nomination of Robert van de Kerkhof to the HeiQ Board, a seasoned executive with extensive textile experience holding positions as CCO, CSO, Board member of Lenzing Plc, and Chairman of CIRFS, the European Man-Made Fibres Association. Robert will also serve as the Chairman of the HeiQ AeoniQ Holding Board.

HeiQ AeoniQ Holding, established as an independent subsidiary to attract new investors, value-chain partners, and brands, embarks on an ambitious multi-year scale-up strategy. This strategy involves integrating diverse sources of bio-derived feedstock and hyper-scaling cellulosic filament fiber production capacity over the next decade, targeting industries such as apparel, footwear, automotive, home textiles, and aeronautics.

Many end-users now expect recycled materials to be in textile products they purchase – and this is driving innovation throughout the industry. However, there are still many technical and economic issues facing yarn and fabric producers using recycled resources. Members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association offer some effective solutions to these challenges.

Synthetic recycled materials such as PET can usually be treated similarly to new yarn, but there are additional complexities where natural fibres like wool and cotton are involved. Today, there’s a trend towards mechanically recycled wool and cotton fibres.

Spinning recycled cotton
The use of mechanically recycled fibres in spinning brings specific quality considerations: they have higher levels of short fibres and neps – and may often be colored, particularly if post-consumer material is used. It’s also true that recycled yarns have limitations in terms of fineness. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fibre data, supporting sustainability goals, including benchmarks for blends of virgin and recycled cotton.
In general, short fibres such as those in recycled material can easily be handled by rotor spinning machines. For ring spinning, the shorter the fibres, the more difficult it is to guide them through the drafting zone to integrate them into the yarn body. Still, for wider yarn counts and higher yarn quality, the focus is now shifting to ring spinning. The presence of short fibres is a challenge, but Rieter offers solutions to address this issue.

Knitting recycled wool
For recycling, wool fibres undergo mechanical procedures such as shredding, cutting, and re-spinning, influencing the quality and characteristics of the resulting yarn. These operations remove the natural scales and variations in fibre length of the wool, causing a decrease in the overall strength and durability of the recycled yarn. This makes the yarn more prone to breakage, especially under the tension exerted during knitting.

Adapting to process recycled materials often requires adjustments to existing machinery. Knitting machines must be equipped with positive yarn suppliers to control fibre tension. Steiger engages in continuous testing of new yarns on the market, to check their suitability for processing on knitting machines. For satisfactory quality, the challenges intensify, with natural yarns requiring careful consideration and adaptation in the knitting processes.

From fibres to nonwovens
Nonwovens technology was born partly from the idea of recycling to reduce manufacturing costs and to process textile waste and previously unusable materials into fabric structures. Nonwovens production lines, where fibre webs are bonded mechanically, thermally or chemically, can easily process almost all mechanically and chemically recycled fibres.

Autefa Solutions offers nonwovens lines from a single source, enabling products such as liners, wipes, wadding and insulation to be produced in a true closed loop. Fibres are often used up to four times for one product.

Recycling: total strategy
Great services, technology and machines from members of Swiss Textile Machinery support the efforts of the circular economy to process recycled fibres. The machines incorporate the know-how of several decades, with the innovative power and quality standards in production and materials.
Stäubli’s global ESG (environmental, social & governance) strategy defines KPIs in the context of energy consumption, machine longevity and the recycling capacity in production units worldwide, as well in terms of machinery recyclability. The machine recyclability of automatic drawing in machines, weaving systems and jacquard machines ranges from 96 to 99%.

INDA announces Sustainability as a primary focus for 2024. This strategic initiative, backed by resounding support from INDA’s leadership, is a direct response to feedback from association members affirming that sustainability remains one of the nonwovens industry’s highest priorities.

INDA’s sustainability endeavor will center around three core pillars crucial to the industry’s future: Responsible Sourcing, End-of-Life Solutions, and Innovations in Sustainability. This multifaceted initiative will introduce a spectrum of new and enhanced offerings, including:

• Webinars addressing sustainability issues impacting members and the industry.
• Specialized technical and government affairs committees enabling members to collaborate on sustainability opportunities and challenges.
• The inaugural release of a comprehensive sustainability report from INDA’s Market Intelligence department.
• A dedicated sustainability special edition of the International Fiber Journal, produced by INDA Media.
• Sustainability programming at INDA events, including a dedicated focus at the IDEA® 2025 conference.

Naturfasern und Rezyklate sind die Grundlage der neuesten Produktlinie von silbaerg Snowboards. silbaerg fertigt seit 2011 hochwertige Snowboards mittels patentierter A.L.D.-tech®. A.L.D. steht für anisotropic layer design und ermöglicht eine bisher ungesehene Anpassungsfähigkeit an verschiedene Fahrsituationen.  

Handgefertigte A.L.D.tech®-Lagen umgeben den Holzkern und nicht, wie bei anderen Anbietern üblich, klassische industriell gefertigte Bi-, Tri- oder Quadraxialgelege. Bereits 2015 wurden dabei erstmals Naturfasern in Form von Tapes verwendet.

silbaerg setzt auf den Einsatz regionaler Produkte. So kommen Hanffasertapes von Sachsenleinen GmbH (Markkleeberg, Sachsen) zum Einsatz, deren Rohstoff seinen Ursprung auf den Feldern zwischen Chemnitz und Leipzig hat. Für die Versteifung der Boards werden weiterhin Carbonfasertapes benötigt. Hier greift silbaerg auf Forschungsergebnisse des Sächsischen Textilforschungsinstitutes e. V. (STFI) in Chemnitz zurück: Carbonfaserabfälle von silbaerg werden in Form von Recyclingvliesstoffen wiedereingesetzt. Die Verschnittreste, die bei silbaerg in der Produktion anderer Boards anfallen, werden am STFI auf der Anlagentechnik des Zentrums für Textilen Leichtbau aufbereitet und zu Carbonfaservliesstoffen verarbeitet. Diese werden anschließend zu Carbonfasertapes konfektioniert und dienen zusammen mit Hanffasertapes als Verstärkungsstruktur im grünen Snowboard, die damit absolut made in Saxony sind.

Aktuell werden erste Boards von silbaerg-Teamfahrern im Schnee getestet. Diese Testboards nutzen ein neues biobasiertes Harzsystem der bto-epoxy GmbH (Amstetten, Österreich), welches einen Bio-Anteil von 31 % im Harz und 54 % im Härter aufweist. Es ist geplant, die neue Produktlinie noch im Jahr 2024 auf den Markt zu bringen.  

Durch den Einsatz von Hanffasern und recycelten Carbonfasern und die damit verbundene Substitution von Primärmaterial werden Ziele für eine nachhaltige Entwicklung erfüllt. Durch die Nutzung von hauseigenen Rezyklaten lässt sich zudem die Abfallmenge von Carbonfasern im Unternehmen um ca. 75 % reduzieren. Welchen Einfluss dies auf die LCA der Produkte hat, wird aktuell berechnet. 

“From Earth to Earth”: The new plan defines goals and concrete actions in Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) areas to foster value creation for all stakeholders and put new sustainability regulatory requirements at the centre of attention.

A project, designed to enhance RadiciGroup's transparency and commitment to develop a responsible business along its entire value chain from an economic, social and environmental perspective and focus on the ever more widespread and stringent sustainability regulatory requirements. These are the features and goals of the Sustainability Plan presented by the Group and called "From Earth to Earth", precisely to emphasize the intent to focus on the Earth and future generations.

In the context of a complex and constantly changing scenario, the Group has therefore decided to capitalize on the goals achieved and look beyond them with a plan defining the medium-term targets and the actions to be taken to fulfil them and covering all areas considered to be "material”, i.e., relevant from the point of view of ESG and financial risks, opportunities and impacts. Indeed, the ultimate goal of "From Earth to Earth" is to support business continuity and the growth of the company and all its stakeholders.

The project was the result of a multi-year collaboration with Deloitte, which contributed an external and objective viewpoint on the definition of the material targets and themes. However, it was not an armchair exercise, but the result of an extensive listening process involving internal and external stakeholders, all of whom were sustainability experts who helped define a shortlist of strategic themes for both the Group and its main stakeholders. These issues were then analysed in detail using working tables on the different themes to identify the objectives in Environmental, Social and Governance areas and the related concrete actions needed to achieve them, in line with the European decarbonization and energy transition policies and the
United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, a global blueprint for sustainable growth.

In particular, RadiciGroup’s environmental goals include: a 20% increase and differentiation in renewable source electricity consumption, an 80% reduction in total direct greenhouse gas emissions by 2030 compared to 2011, attention to water consumption to limit the impact on local communities and biodiversity, the extension of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) methodology to measure the environmental impact of 70% of the products (in terms of weight) manufactured by the entire Group, collaboration among the various actors in the supply chain from an ecodesign perspective and the search for increasingly more sustainable and circular packaging solutions.

Das Innovationsnetzwerk FAKOSI - Komfort- und Sicherheitstechnologien für elektrische Leichtfahrzeuge (LEVs) wird für weitere zwei Jahre aus Mitteln des Zentralen Innovationsprogramm Mittelstand (ZIM) gefördert. Einen entsprechenden Antrag hat das Bundesministerium für Wirtschaft und Klimaschutz (BMWK) bewilligt. Damit werden bis September 2025 weiterhin Fördermittel für die Entwicklung von innovativen Konzepten, Systemen und Komponenten im Bereich LEVs gestellt und die technologische Wettbewerbsfähigkeit und Innovationskraft von kleinen und mittleren Unternehmen (KMU) gestärkt. Hierbei werden Schwerpunkte in den Themen Insassen- und Fußgängerschutz, Unfallvermeidung, Crashsicherheit, persönliche Schutzausrüstung sowie in der Digitalisierung und Vernetzung von Systemen verfolgt.

Um die konkreten Entwicklungsbedarfe zu adressieren vereint FAKOSI Kompetenzen in Materialwissenschaften, Leichtbau, Fertigungsverfahren, Sensorik, Informatik und weiteren naturwissenschaftlich-technischen Fachrichtungen mit mittelständischen Herstellern und Dienstleistern aus den Bereichen Machine Vision, Embedded Systems und KI.  Der dadurch im Netzwerkverbund entstehende Technologie- und Wissenstransfer sichert insbesondere KMU eine hohe Wettbewerbsfähigkeit.

Aktuell sind acht Unternehmen und vier Forschungseinrichtungen an FAKOSI beteiligt. Interessierte Unternehmen und Forschungseinrichtungen sowie potenzielle Anwender:innen können weiterhin an dem Innovationsnetzwerk oder an den daraus entstehenden F&E-Projekten partizipieren. Im Zuge der Mitgliedschaft werden die Partner:innen aktiv bei der Identifizierung und Initiierung von Innovationsprojekten sowie der Sicherstellung von Finanzierungen durch Fördermittelakquise unterstützt.

Zwei Anträge auf ZIM-Projektförderung wurden im Rahmen von FAKOSI bereits bewilligt. Im Innovationsprojekt "AutoFL" strebt die Katulu GmbH den Aufbau eines automatisierten Federated Learning Ansatzes an. Unter Einbezug höchstmöglicher Data Privacy soll dieser Ansatz es kleineren und mittleren Unternehmen ermöglichen, fortschrittliche Techniken des Machine Learning zu nutzen, selbst wenn keine Data-Science-Expertise im Unternehmen vorhanden ist. Die Katulu GmbH mit Sitz in Hamburg ist auf die Entwicklung von industriellen FL-Lösungen spezialisiert. Das Unternehmen berät Industrieunternehmen aus Branchen wie Maschinenbau, Halbleiter und Chemie bei der Entwicklung souveräner und nachhaltiger Industrie 4.0-Lösungen. Im ZIM-Innovationsprojekt "WindMate" haben sich die Ventus Technologies GmbH und das Lehr- und Forschungsgebiet Fahrzeugsicherheit der Ostfalia Hochschule für angewandte Wissenschaften zusammengeschlossen, um ein wegweisendes präventives Warnsystem vor starken Windböen im Straßenverkehr zu entwickeln. Durch den neuen digitalen Assistenten soll die Verkehrssicherheit für LKW und andere Nutzfahrzeuge windanfällige Fahrzeugklassen maßgeblich erhöht werden.

Ebenfalls wurde ein Antrag auf Forschungszulage für den Zeitraum von zwei Kalenderjahren erfolgreich bewilligt. Mit dem Forschungszulagengesetz (FZulG) haben Unternehmen und Start-ups einen Rechtsanspruch auf die steuerliche Förderung ihrer Aufwendungen für Forschung und Entwicklung (F&E). Die Forschungszulage kann für bis zu vier Jahren rückwirkend beantragt werden.

Die IWS GmbH hat das Netzwerkmanagement für FAKOSI übernommen und unterstützt die Partner:innen von der ersten Idee über die Suche nach passenden Projektpartner:innen bis zur Ausarbeitung und Koordination von Förderanträgen. Die Grundlage der Finanzierung der F&E-Vorhaben soll das Zentrale Innovationsprogramm Mittelstand (ZIM) des Bundesministeriums für Wirtschaft und Klimaschutz bilden, das durch weitere Bundes- und EU-Programme ergänzt wird.

FAKOSI-Netzwerkpartner:innen: CESYS GmbH, GeBioM mbH, Katulu GmbH, Momes Gmb, SkySpirit GmbH,tagItron GmbH, Treo - Labor für Umweltsimulation GmbH, Ventus Technologies GmbH, BIBA - Bremer Institut für Produktion und Logistik GmbH, Faserinstitut Bremen e. V. (FIBRE), Fraunhofer-Institut für Fertigungstechnik und Angewandte Materialforschung IFAM, Ostfalia Hochschule für angewandte Wissenschaften

The Aachen-based start-up SA-Dynamics is developing sustainable, bio-based and biodegradable insulation materials made from aerogel fibres, thereby setting new standards in resource-saving construction. Dr Sascha Schriever (Institut für Textiltechnik ITA), Maximilian Mohr (ITA), Dr Jens Hofer (ITA Postdoc) and Dr Christian Schwotzer (Department for Industrial Furnaces and Heat Engineering IOB), who trained at RWTH Aachen University, were awarded first place in the KUER.NRW Business Plan Competition 2023 and prize money of €6,000.

SA-Dynamics relies on the impressive properties of aerogel fibres: they have excellent insulating properties, are lightweight, durable, robust, versatile and can be processed very well on conventional textile machines thanks to their flexibility. This makes them comparable to polystyrene, but still sustainable, as SA Dynamics uses bio-based and biodegradable raw materials.

"We can revolutionise the construction world with bio-based aerogel fibres," explains ITA founder Dr Sascha Schriever proudly. "If all insulation materials in construction are converted to bio-based aerogel fibres, all builders can realise their dream of a sustainable house."

SA Dynamics has come a good deal closer to its founding goal by winning the KUER.NRW 2023 business plan competition. The spin-off from Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) and Department for Industrial Furnaces and Heat Engineering (IOB) at RWTH Aachen University is scheduled for spring 2025.

Lenzing Group announced the collaboration with China’s internationally recognized denim mill, Advance Denim, to use matte TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers for their latest Denim Collection.

The TENCEL™ brand offers innovative and planet-friendly fiber solutions¹ that strive to enhance the adoption of responsible production² within the textile industry. Leveraging resource-saving, closed-loop production process³, TENCEL™ fibers are naturally soft and smooth to the touch and support a natural dry feeling through moisture control. The rollout of matte TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers in 2021 provided denim manufacturers with a solution that enabled them to enjoy the ample tactile and environmental benefits of TENCEL™ fibers, while also maintaining a matte finish on the end product.

“Matte TENCEL™ fibers are an extremely important innovation for the denim sector as they address the need for responsible denim made with less shine for a more vintage look. Many brands are currently looking for styles that meet this criterion while also providing softness and drapability for wide-leg jeans. Matte TENCEL™ fibers create the perfect mixture of performance and sustainability without sacrificing that true vintage indigo look,” said Amy Wang, General Manager of Advance Denim. “The matte denim in the ‘Denim Collection’, achieved by using matte TENCEL™ fibers, not only has exceptional softness to the touch, but its fiber properties also make the denim more like traditional cotton jeans after washing. This will enable the final garments to retain the intended retro style of the fabric.”

¹ TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibers are certified with the EU Ecolabel for textile products (license no. AT/016/001) for environmental excellence.
² The responsible production of TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibers uses at least 50% less water and emits at least 50% less CO2 compared to generic lyocell and modal fibers, according to Higg MSI, thereby saving precious resources for future generations. Results based on LCA standards (ISO 14040/44) and available via Higg MSI (Version 3.7).
³ Savings consider solvent recovery.